Hey bud! Started the rima 31/aka Timber Thunder/aka many others. Training log was a seasoned 12' ash 16" diameter. Started with the softwood blade that comes with the saw and got results comparable to our local mill. Kinda wavy but not very noteacable. Switched to 154" x 1.5" x .55 woodmizer 747 silver and it's a world of difference. Like butter as they say! No planer needed. It's ridiculously flat. Tighten blade enough to center it on opposing wheel while spinning by hand(this is the key!) This keeps the blade from pitching up or down and takes stress off the blade, makes super small kerf, shockingly little dust. I don't have the adjustable guide(will probably make one), but it cut so insanely flat, maybe I won't need one? I still have a hardened version of the same blade to try. I'll order a box of whichever one works best. I plan on sharpening with a Dremel and tooth setting on the saw as it seems to work just fine from what I'm seeing on UA-cam. Will these extra heavy wider blades prematurely wear out components? Yep! I'm sure of it. I'm up to the challenge. Though, the thicker blade spun just as smoothly by hand as the China one. Ordering spare parts tonight. Alternatively, someone makes a .52 blade that would be an even smaller kerf and less stress. I'm just stunned at the cut quality with the thicker blade. The 14hp Kohler is a dream. There was 2 minor dimensional defects on the carriage that I had to work out. Will definitely be welding the tracks together and grinding those bumps smooth. I'm set to cut 16'4" now. Adding 4'. It's all ford blue and my wife is making some Ford stickers with fictional model PSM-3114. Figure I'll have every farmer around here googling for Ford Sawmills and calling there sales reps. Lol!! Thanks for your videos that helped me through setup!
Hey buddy, I got my sawmill. Built a trailer. About to crank it up tomorrow. I'll send ya an update. Realized I didn't get the adjustable guides. Know a domestic source?
Nice one... i need to build a similar one... but i kindly need your advices... how does (the pipe taking hot air to inside container) not take the smoke of fire to inside... and i wish you showed us the pipes how its perforated in the end ... i wish i can have your whatsap number as a kind serious request , for an easy getting for all advices from you in each anf every step ... hope you consider my kind request (ps: # with ur country code in case)
Sorry I do not have WhatsApp. The stove is pretty straight forward, the fire is contained in the fire chamber and the smoke exits the flu pipe. The air for inside the kiln just goes around the fire chamber. The pipes only have a few perforated holes, most heat exits at the end of the pipe.
Hey bud! Started the rima 31/aka Timber Thunder/aka many others.
Training log was a seasoned 12' ash 16" diameter. Started with the softwood blade that comes with the saw and got results comparable to our local mill. Kinda wavy but not very noteacable. Switched to 154" x 1.5" x .55 woodmizer 747 silver and it's a world of difference. Like butter as they say! No planer needed. It's ridiculously flat. Tighten blade enough to center it on opposing wheel while spinning by hand(this is the key!) This keeps the blade from pitching up or down and takes stress off the blade, makes super small kerf, shockingly little dust. I don't have the adjustable guide(will probably make one), but it cut so insanely flat, maybe I won't need one? I still have a hardened version of the same blade to try. I'll order a box of whichever one works best. I plan on sharpening with a Dremel and tooth setting on the saw as it seems to work just fine from what I'm seeing on UA-cam.
Will these extra heavy wider blades prematurely wear out components? Yep! I'm sure of it. I'm up to the challenge. Though, the thicker blade spun just as smoothly by hand as the China one. Ordering spare parts tonight. Alternatively, someone makes a .52 blade that would be an even smaller kerf and less stress. I'm just stunned at the cut quality with the thicker blade. The 14hp Kohler is a dream. There was 2 minor dimensional defects on the carriage that I had to work out. Will definitely be welding the tracks together and grinding those bumps smooth. I'm set to cut 16'4" now. Adding 4'. It's all ford blue and my wife is making some Ford stickers with fictional model PSM-3114. Figure I'll have every farmer around here googling for Ford Sawmills and calling there sales reps. Lol!!
Thanks for your videos that helped me through setup!
That’s great to hear! I need to setup a sharpening method myself. I also want to experiment with blades one day. I hope things keep going good for you
Very nice kiln. I want to build one.
Thank you. I need to improve mine
If I can just duplicate my house attic. It would dry anything in a week.
Hey buddy, I got my sawmill. Built a trailer. About to crank it up tomorrow. I'll send ya an update. Realized I didn't get the adjustable guides. Know a domestic source?
Did you try the Rima sawmill group on Facebook? There are some resellers that might be able to assist. Really good group to join if you use Facebook
@@bwade1022 Heading there now.
Nice one... i need to build a similar one... but i kindly need your advices... how does (the pipe taking hot air to inside container) not take the smoke of fire to inside... and i wish you showed us the pipes how its perforated in the end ... i wish i can have your whatsap number as a kind serious request , for an easy getting for all advices from you in each anf every step ... hope you consider my kind request (ps: # with ur country code in case)
Sorry I do not have WhatsApp. The stove is pretty straight forward, the fire is contained in the fire chamber and the smoke exits the flu pipe. The air for inside the kiln just goes around the fire chamber. The pipes only have a few perforated holes, most heat exits at the end of the pipe.