I installed the GarageStar bushings a couple of years back and immediately noticed a dramatic difference (which I'm pretty sure is at least 90% placebo...top notch placebo.) I'm glad you got that question on stress in the door hinges because I think it is true, the Delrin bushings do send extra stress into the hinges. I think my (1996) hinges may creak more than they used to.
By adding a more fitting door bushing to the car does that place additional stress to other contact points, say, the door hinges? Regardless, gonna buy a set for my ND!
i have all my suspension bushings printed in the hardest (still flexible) TPU, gonna print them to my rallycross mx3 right now, i bet they work. (printed suspension car is 1969 mazda 1500, thatswhy they are printed)
I don't mean to bring you down. But the bushings I got from moss miata actually stays in the cup when you let go. It had closer tolerance than the one demonstrated here. And yes, it made a huge difference. My doors are now tight and don't rattle.
I bought these and they were a little too small and didn't fit snugly into the door cup. Since they're incredibly hard, they rattled rally bad. I ended up buying Delrin bushings and they actually fit perfectly and eliminated all door rattle. If you're thinking about getting new door bushings, 100% go with Delrin and not these.
Its not placebo but the benefits just may not be very large. Its still an improvement, however. The door holding off 1 latch and 2 hinges is helpful but holding firmly to an additional point is better. The benefits are likely more noticeable on someone's car that has them worn down or completely missing but as Keith mentions, it was about a 3% improvement in chassis stiffness as tested with software. The average person still probably wouldn't notice that but what they do notice is the change in NVH coming from their doors. Miata's get a LOT of NVH due to thin sheetmetal but if you hold the sheetmetal down better, it reduces the reverb from sound vibrations from that location. And because the miata's thin sheetmetal door is very rounded, it amplifies sounds into the car even more(thats why even a small strip of sound deadening in the door actually works incredibly well in miatas, your stiffening the sheetmetal, preventing it from vibrating) so the fact that a bushing reduced rattles and sounds from the inside noticeably is an indicator of stiffening things up.
Indeed tou do have to add some form of heavy duty tape to make it snug. I put strips of gorilla tape on the door bracket and now it’s really snug. It does take a little effort to open the door but man does it make a difference!
Yep, but FM and others can't sell you "door bushings" if you do something sensible like that. Look forward to someone bringing out race spec brass bushings.
Would bushings printed in petg be a little more noticeable than the stock bushings? I was wondering because there are a couple files that I could print
So you tested rigidity on one car, result was 3%. What are the units of measure? How was the measurement done? What were the numbers? What was the measurement error? How would anyone notice 3%? I remain very skeptical.
The car was up on the lift and tethered to the floor at one rear corner. A long bar was bolted to the front bumper mounting points and weights were hung off it at the opposite side to the tethered corner to give us a consistent and calculated amount of torsional load. We then measured deflection. The rig was originally built to measure the effects of several types of butterfly brace, we just measured with the door bushings because it was easy and interesting. Since it was an A/B test, units etc aren't really important. It's the comparison of the numbers that matters. We have not published the full data set because this was an internal development project. As far as we know, we are the only ones who actually try to quantify this sort of change so we cannot compare our results with others.
@@mr1enrollment That all depends on how well you control your variables. But if you don't believe the measurements, check the product reviews from unaffiliated customers who have tried them. What it comes down to is that it's a relatively small (but measurable) difference for a relatively small cost and effort. We have more effective stiffening devices available at a higher cost and higher install effort.
The biggest difference is material. Theirs are more similar to the ones we used to sell, although we can't comment on specifics of dimensions and fit. There is a cost difference as well, ours are about 2/3 the price. And if you like red, CravenSpeed is the way to go! I don't think I'd remove one to install the other, though. In terms of function, they should be very similar.
Flyin' Miata your honest answer doesn’t move product. Lol. I’m actually kind of critical about door fitment with these CravenSpeeds and I definitely don’t like red on orange. My driver door is finicky and doesn’t always catch. I’ll probably give yours a try. Thanks!
I installed these but noticed the passenger door doesn't close as tight as the drivers. I think it was this way already. However, the striker or latch mech doesn't provide any way to adjust the closure tightness that I could find. Anyone have an ideas on? Basically when you close the door, it latches but has a little bounce back, then you can press on it and get movement towards the striker. The drivers side closes firm without bounce back.
You might not notice as much of a difference as you would with a 30 year old NA, but the principle is still the same. Replacing the squishy stock rubber piece with a more solid, better fitting material to help the door stay in position. We've got them on almost all the shop cars, no matter the year or mileage.
This sounds like you have a loose window rail or something broken inside the door. If you need help diagnosing or solving this issue, please contact our customer support team directly. Thanks!
![MIATA DOOR BUSHING INSTALL | #OMGMIATA | EP71 | [4K60]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/PCDB_EktA_k/mqdefault.jpg)
Hey guys, we're very much still in business to clear that up. We just downsized the business a bit to go into some other directions!
Yeah, I just ordered some awesome seat rails from them!
Sorry about the confusion! It apparently wasn't clear to us. Good luck with the new parts!
That door rattle question Would have been a perfect time to address window bushings you sell. Highly recommend.
I installed the GarageStar bushings a couple of years back and immediately noticed a dramatic difference (which I'm pretty sure is at least 90% placebo...top notch placebo.)
I'm glad you got that question on stress in the door hinges because I think it is true, the Delrin bushings do send extra stress into the hinges. I think my (1996) hinges may creak more than they used to.
Really do work in eliminating door rattling. Def get these!
By adding a more fitting door bushing to the car does that place additional stress to other contact points, say, the door hinges? Regardless, gonna buy a set for my ND!
Thanks for the great video Keith! I’m sold! Placing my order today!
Thanks Jeffrey!
I love the new title "Bushing Boss" lol
Glad to see these are back in stock after that donut video lol finally grabbed some. So ready for no more door rattles lol
They didn't tell us that was coming so it was a bit of a surprise! It was "all printers on deck" for a little while there to meet demand.
@@FlyinMiataVideo as soon as i saw the video I knew they we're going to be gone lok I had been looking at them for weeks
How about a video on changing the door hinge pins.
You guys are probably so fed up with my many orders 😂😂 time for another!
Do you also make the cup? My car is missing both the bushings and door cup.
i have all my suspension bushings printed in the hardest (still flexible) TPU, gonna print them to my rallycross mx3 right now, i bet they work. (printed suspension car is 1969 mazda 1500, thatswhy they are printed)
Miata Is Always The Answer.
I don't mean to bring you down. But the bushings I got from moss miata actually stays in the cup when you let go. It had closer tolerance than the one demonstrated here.
And yes, it made a huge difference. My doors are now tight and don't rattle.
The cup portion of the connection can expand over time. A couple of taps with a light ball peen hammer tightened it right up on my car.
I bought these and they were a little too small and didn't fit snugly into the door cup. Since they're incredibly hard, they rattled rally bad. I ended up buying Delrin bushings and they actually fit perfectly and eliminated all door rattle.
If you're thinking about getting new door bushings, 100% go with Delrin and not these.
Sorry to hear that. Sounds more like a problem with design than material. Did you talk to us about it?
Why does the door cup make a meaningful difference to chassis rigidity when there is already a latch that has very little play in it?
It doesn't these are sold off of placebo since day 1.
Its not placebo but the benefits just may not be very large. Its still an improvement, however. The door holding off 1 latch and 2 hinges is helpful but holding firmly to an additional point is better.
The benefits are likely more noticeable on someone's car that has them worn down or completely missing but as Keith mentions, it was about a 3% improvement in chassis stiffness as tested with software. The average person still probably wouldn't notice that but what they do notice is the change in NVH coming from their doors. Miata's get a LOT of NVH due to thin sheetmetal but if you hold the sheetmetal down better, it reduces the reverb from sound vibrations from that location. And because the miata's thin sheetmetal door is very rounded, it amplifies sounds into the car even more(thats why even a small strip of sound deadening in the door actually works incredibly well in miatas, your stiffening the sheetmetal, preventing it from vibrating) so the fact that a bushing reduced rattles and sounds from the inside noticeably is an indicator of stiffening things up.
helpful info, questions answered, thanks
If it's not a snug fit then how is it structural? If it's a snug fit then it must impact door closing no? I'm still not convinced this isnt snake oil.
Indeed tou do have to add some form of heavy duty tape to make it snug. I put strips of gorilla tape on the door bracket and now it’s really snug. It does take a little effort to open the door but man does it make a difference!
Thanks. Just ordered a set.
Awesome video!
Shipping to Canada is way to expensive for these bushings. You should have a USPS option.
I have a rollcage so I wonder how much more rigid I could even get?
Can't you just bend the cup in a bit to eliminate play?
Yep, but FM and others can't sell you "door bushings" if you do something sensible like that. Look forward to someone bringing out race spec brass bushings.
how about how to replace door hinge pins and bushings.
Looking forward to window rollers out of yge same material?
Hmm. Interesting idea. We'll look into the properties.
21:12 - Door hinge stress question
Would bushings printed in petg be a little more noticeable than the stock bushings? I was wondering because there are a couple files that I could print
Anyone compared the FM vs the Cravenspeed (this one rocks!) ?
Can you do a video on just RATTLES? Lol I wish I could find mine.
Good suggestion! We'll pass that along.
So you tested rigidity on one car, result was 3%.
What are the units of measure?
How was the measurement done?
What were the numbers?
What was the measurement error?
How would anyone notice 3%?
I remain very skeptical.
The car was up on the lift and tethered to the floor at one rear corner. A long bar was bolted to the front bumper mounting points and weights were hung off it at the opposite side to the tethered corner to give us a consistent and calculated amount of torsional load. We then measured deflection. The rig was originally built to measure the effects of several types of butterfly brace, we just measured with the door bushings because it was easy and interesting. Since it was an A/B test, units etc aren't really important. It's the comparison of the numbers that matters. We have not published the full data set because this was an internal development project. As far as we know, we are the only ones who actually try to quantify this sort of change so we cannot compare our results with others.
@@FlyinMiataVideo a comparison that results in 3% difference seems to me to be very subject to measurement error. This is marketing not science.
@@mr1enrollment That all depends on how well you control your variables. But if you don't believe the measurements, check the product reviews from unaffiliated customers who have tried them. What it comes down to is that it's a relatively small (but measurable) difference for a relatively small cost and effort. We have more effective stiffening devices available at a higher cost and higher install effort.
@@FlyinMiataVideo I am revising my "no". I apologize for being an A-Hole. Now: "No thank You"
I will consider the door parts later on.
What makes yours better than CravenSpeeds? I have those on my ND. I’m interested in “upgrading”.
The biggest difference is material. Theirs are more similar to the ones we used to sell, although we can't comment on specifics of dimensions and fit. There is a cost difference as well, ours are about 2/3 the price. And if you like red, CravenSpeed is the way to go!
I don't think I'd remove one to install the other, though. In terms of function, they should be very similar.
Flyin' Miata your honest answer doesn’t move product. Lol. I’m actually kind of critical about door fitment with these CravenSpeeds and I definitely don’t like red on orange. My driver door is finicky and doesn’t always catch. I’ll probably give yours a try. Thanks!
@@D3X1M3REMIXED if you've got nothing but time & money, why not?
Yowzoe time? These take less than 10 minutes. Money? FMs version is dirt cheap.
ND versions worth it for an RF?
The RF top doesn't add any structure to speak of, so they're just as useful as on the soft top.
@@FlyinMiataVideo Thanks.
I installed these but noticed the passenger door doesn't close as tight as the drivers. I think it was this way already. However, the striker or latch mech doesn't provide any way to adjust the closure tightness that I could find. Anyone have an ideas on? Basically when you close the door, it latches but has a little bounce back, then you can press on it and get movement towards the striker. The drivers side closes firm without bounce back.
Can you drop us an email? One of our techs at support@flyinmiata.com might be able to help you figure this out. Thanks!
What brand t handle is that? And did the Sealtest milk crate come from back home?
I think it might be a Craftsman for the Sears days. Not sure. And I’ve had that milk crate for a looooooong time...
Are the bushings worth changing on a brand new ND?
You might not notice as much of a difference as you would with a 30 year old NA, but the principle is still the same. Replacing the squishy stock rubber piece with a more solid, better fitting material to help the door stay in position. We've got them on almost all the shop cars, no matter the year or mileage.
I wish they came in red.
How can we stop the window trembling? The car is an nb2
This sounds like you have a loose window rail or something broken inside the door. If you need help diagnosing or solving this issue, please contact our customer support team directly. Thanks!
@@FlyinMiataVideo only email, im from greece
I believe you said something about Na-ND parts compatibility. I would like to hear what kind of parts are interchangeable.
Door bushings and lug nuts :)
How much % infil are these printed ?
If you're printing your own just do 3-4mm walls and top/bottom layers with 90% infill. It's like 40g of filament each one. Very cheap.
Cracked my windscreen left side at pillar immediately from using non FM bushes on NC that added additional stress
That would be my concern. Additional stress moved to an unforseen area.
30 minutes for a 2 screw part :D wow.
We’ll be releasing an install highlight video without all the pesky other info :)
Why not include a video of the 3D printer
Because the printer farm is not in the same place that we shot this video. We’ll do a feature on them later.
@@FlyinMiataVideo Great thanks