I tried these at one of their shoe demos and they're definitely a step up from their other shoes. I wouldn't trust them outside, like you said, so I personally wouldn't buy them. After wearing them for about 30 minutes I felt them start loosening while playing around on slab and more technical heel hooks. I could tell that they'd definitely lose the snug fit after a couple of months and heel would slosh around. They made a big step, but I don't think they're competitive with big shoe brands yet. The rubber felt as good as anybody's though so I have a lot of hope that they'll keep working on it.
I agree. They're definitely a big step up, but they've still got some distance to go before they're quality matches the likes of Scarpa and La Sportiva (although the same could also be said for virtually every other brand).
@@ukclimbingofficial Have you had a chance to review the Madrock Drones 2.0 and the Drone CS? With delamination being impossible on them, they're right up there with Scarpa and Sportiva IMO. The most innovative shoes on the market by a mile and considerably less expensive in the US at least.
Mad Rock infrequently come our way, as they’re not readily available in the UK. I have heard good things about their latest models though, so would definitely be intrigued to try some out…
I’m an asian male with a feet length of 26.5cm and my street shoe size is Eur 43. In BD momentum woman’s, i downsized to Eur 40. In BD method S men’s version, i downsized to Eur 41.5. If i were to use my street shoe size, its too big. Sizing is confusing with BD shoes.
If it's any consolation, it's not just BD's sizing - it's climbing shoes as a whole - and that's why we always recommend trying before buying, just to be sure that they actually fit your foot.
Most everything is stiffer in the toe and less adaptable than the Theory (Furia S most similar). They're for different folks, with the Theory being the indoor competition crowd strictly, and the Method S being the indoor standard commercial set.
@@nathanogara9660 molded heel akin to the Solution, but nowhere near as much tension. Will see few shoes use these molded heel cups because unfortunately you have to fit them well else there is movement, and this often means either unicorn fits or excessive downsizing with a shoe with unlined leather (like a Solution). This is meant for a little more comfort, thus can give a snug fit without as much pressure on the Achilles Tendon. I think Scarpa has done amazingly well with the PAF system to maintain this distributed pressure but tight fit without slippage in the heel and great feedback, which a heel cup reduces.
Zachary has done a great job of fielding comments here and I completely agree with him about the heel - it’s definitely the weakest part of the Method S. The Furia S or perhaps the Drago are the two Scarpa shoes I’d compare it too. Both a little different, but also quite similar. Unfortunately I haven’t used the Theory so can’t comment on that from first hand experience.
I have these and i wouldn't call them soft 🤷♂️ then again I've been wearing the drago and furia air. These hurt the side of my foot near the arch after about 5 minutes wearing and the pain doesn't go away as soon as o take them off. It's an annoying dull ache. I think my feet are too wide. Similar experience with the skwama but they've broken in better. Anyway i don't like them much. But I've got them now so. Scarpa seem to fit my feet better so i got the instinct VS as well now.
They’re definitely a whole lot narrower than the various shoes you’ve mentioned, so maybe it is just a case of your feet being a bit too wide. They’re definitely soft too, although I guess they’re positively stiff compared to the Furia Air 😅
Gave these a quick try and I found that the street size my toe was way too bunched up. I have similar experience with all downturn shoes. Half size up felt more bearable. I do have a long 10.5 and very narrow foot .. Anyone else has such experience?
In retrospect I should have gone into more detail on this within the video. For me, street size was pretty much perfect, but if you’re after a more performance oriented fit then half a size down would definitely be worth trying. I’ve heard of some people going down a fair few sizes, but with super soft shoes like this you often can, as they continue to stretch and mould around your foot; however, this does tend to lead to the shoe deforming over time, so is something worth avoiding. That said, half a size wouldn’t do this and would definitely be worth trying. At the end of the day you’ll know the moment they’re on your feet!
@@ukclimbingofficial Alas, I'm in the US. Still, the explosion in UK climbing content online has me really thinking of getting up there at some point just for the climbing. Looks super fun!
I tried these at one of their shoe demos and they're definitely a step up from their other shoes. I wouldn't trust them outside, like you said, so I personally wouldn't buy them. After wearing them for about 30 minutes I felt them start loosening while playing around on slab and more technical heel hooks. I could tell that they'd definitely lose the snug fit after a couple of months and heel would slosh around. They made a big step, but I don't think they're competitive with big shoe brands yet. The rubber felt as good as anybody's though so I have a lot of hope that they'll keep working on it.
I agree. They're definitely a big step up, but they've still got some distance to go before they're quality matches the likes of Scarpa and La Sportiva (although the same could also be said for virtually every other brand).
@@ukclimbingofficial Have you had a chance to review the Madrock Drones 2.0 and the Drone CS? With delamination being impossible on them, they're right up there with Scarpa and Sportiva IMO. The most innovative shoes on the market by a mile and considerably less expensive in the US at least.
Mad Rock infrequently come our way, as they’re not readily available in the UK. I have heard good things about their latest models though, so would definitely be intrigued to try some out…
I’m an asian male with a feet length of 26.5cm and my street shoe size is Eur 43. In BD momentum woman’s, i downsized to Eur 40. In BD method S men’s version, i downsized to Eur 41.5. If i were to use my street shoe size, its too big. Sizing is confusing with BD shoes.
If it's any consolation, it's not just BD's sizing - it's climbing shoes as a whole - and that's why we always recommend trying before buying, just to be sure that they actually fit your foot.
How do you think it stacks up against the theory? I tried on the normal method on and it felt pretty stiff
Most everything is stiffer in the toe and less adaptable than the Theory (Furia S most similar). They're for different folks, with the Theory being the indoor competition crowd strictly, and the Method S being the indoor standard commercial set.
@@zacharylaschober interesting, what are your thoughts on the heel, it looks so so odd
@@nathanogara9660 molded heel akin to the Solution, but nowhere near as much tension. Will see few shoes use these molded heel cups because unfortunately you have to fit them well else there is movement, and this often means either unicorn fits or excessive downsizing with a shoe with unlined leather (like a Solution). This is meant for a little more comfort, thus can give a snug fit without as much pressure on the Achilles Tendon. I think Scarpa has done amazingly well with the PAF system to maintain this distributed pressure but tight fit without slippage in the heel and great feedback, which a heel cup reduces.
Zachary has done a great job of fielding comments here and I completely agree with him about the heel - it’s definitely the weakest part of the Method S. The Furia S or perhaps the Drago are the two Scarpa shoes I’d compare it too. Both a little different, but also quite similar. Unfortunately I haven’t used the Theory so can’t comment on that from first hand experience.
@@ukclimbingofficial thank you! Keep making the reviews
I have these and i wouldn't call them soft 🤷♂️ then again I've been wearing the drago and furia air.
These hurt the side of my foot near the arch after about 5 minutes wearing and the pain doesn't go away as soon as o take them off. It's an annoying dull ache. I think my feet are too wide. Similar experience with the skwama but they've broken in better. Anyway i don't like them much. But I've got them now so. Scarpa seem to fit my feet better so i got the instinct VS as well now.
They’re definitely a whole lot narrower than the various shoes you’ve mentioned, so maybe it is just a case of your feet being a bit too wide. They’re definitely soft too, although I guess they’re positively stiff compared to the Furia Air 😅
Gave these a quick try and I found that the street size my toe was way too bunched up. I have similar experience with all downturn shoes. Half size up felt more bearable. I do have a long 10.5 and very narrow foot ..
Anyone else has such experience?
Sizing always has its idiosyncrasies, so go with whatever feels right for you.
How do they compare to the bd shadow? Whats the difference there?
Sadly I never used the Shadow, so can’t comment on the differences - aside from what they are on paper (but this is easy enough to find out online).
Street shoe size or half down? I saw another video who said its so soft, half down might work better.
In retrospect I should have gone into more detail on this within the video. For me, street size was pretty much perfect, but if you’re after a more performance oriented fit then half a size down would definitely be worth trying. I’ve heard of some people going down a fair few sizes, but with super soft shoes like this you often can, as they continue to stretch and mould around your foot; however, this does tend to lead to the shoe deforming over time, so is something worth avoiding. That said, half a size wouldn’t do this and would definitely be worth trying. At the end of the day you’ll know the moment they’re on your feet!
yes rob is very cool but i would also benefit from free shoes
(great review rob!)
Get entering some of our competitions on site (if you don’t already) - there’s usually something up for grabs!!
@@ukclimbingofficial but rob (or UKclimbing media person that is also very cool) i don't live in the UK
Agh no, I wondered if that might be the case! Whereabouts are you in the world? It is Rob btw 🙂
@@ukclimbingofficial Alas, I'm in the US. Still, the explosion in UK climbing content online has me really thinking of getting up there at some point just for the climbing. Looks super fun!