Quick question!! You said to use the middle hole for the spring.. what are the other 2 outside holes for? Making adjustments for faster or slower engagement??
If looking from the front of the torque converter with the holes on the bottom of the driven pulley the left hole is the lower torque/flat street/race track setting, the middle hole is the middle torque and street/off-road, the right hole has the most preload and is the high torque setting which increases wear but allows for hill climbing and taller tires than the other settings.
I did some reading but want to make sure im correct. Is the #1 hole 1200 rpm engagement, #2 hole 2200 rpm, and #3 hole 3100 rpm? Depending on which position you use, will it change your overall top speed, or only change at what rpm it engages? Also, what rpm changes do the yellow spring for the 30 series make vs. The green spring. I heard it's stiffer, making engagement later. But how many rpms later? I currently have a kart with a predator 212 tweaked to about 10hp. Turning 5500 rpm. It has a 10 tooth and 72 tooth. 20 inch tall tire. Does gps verified 50mph which is fast enough, but loses speed on inclines significantly. I don't want to go any slower, but want to improve low end torque.
I too am having trouble getting answers from this pitiful site. Hole#1 I would presume that being the RPM engagement rate is lower. Since the TAV will start going higher into the gear ratio. The engine will have started lower speed and will have more ratio to work with and speed up to normal rev limit/valve flutter... Thus making the speed increased. Torque is also affected. It will be lower. Every engine has their RPM with the most power, what you started about the RPM of Hole #2, 2200 RPM is the best torque and HP curve for the 212 Predator. Any higher is considered overdrive. Just my 2 cents.
@@bobby3h From the way I understand it the holes just change the tension. The hole that gives the most tension would delay the shift the longest. I'm not sure how it would effect top speed. Once it shifts it is then up to how much engine is available to move the load with the given gearing.
Bradley n Emilee forever I found the problem. The engine I built was way to powerful. I put a stock engine with a governor and got the same top speed. Then I pulled the built engine off put it in a shifter kart frame with a centrifugal clutch and my heavy ass got 55mph.
A lot of times the metal has "mushroomed" on the unit shat , stopping the cap from coming off . Only way I have found is to put it in a vice , or hold it down with something heavy , and using a pry bar , pry it over and off . Hope this helps someone reading . ps To get back on , either file down the mushroomed metal or I use a soft blow hammer to tap it back on
Seriously, most helpful video I've seen yet, I'm rebuilding an old go kart would you be available for me to ask you some questions whether it be over email or how ever you would like?
Greetings I hope you are well, if someone can help me buy this clutch for my son's go kart with an 8hp engine and it does not have strength going up, which springs should I mount so that it has more strength going up and torque than speed on flats. Thank you.
Great video! Could you please make a video showing how to remove the driven unit from a jackshaft? I have what I believe is a yerf dog 3203 with a comet 30 series tc. I ordered a new spring and buttons from you guys to rebuild the driven, but I can't get the stationary sheave of the driven unit off of the jackshaft. Surely it wouldn't be threaded onto the jackshaft would it? The outer cam was stuck so bad that I had to use a puller and the only reason the puller worked is because the outer cam cracked in two! The stationary sheave appears to be stuck just as bad. I am beginning to worry that I am doing something wrong. If I knew for sure how it is installed on the jackshaft, I'd be able to come up with a better method of removing it. Thanks!
I used a pry bar and deadblow hammer to get it most of the way off and then used a punch to knock it the rest of the way loose also make sure to use plenty of penetrating fluid
yes see I have this problem where my go its belt is turning its just that the wheels aint my dad thinks its that the belt isn't gripping but I don't know so I wanted to her it from a perfessional
Fantastic straight to the business video. Thanks.
Where can i know more about springs and buttons?
great video. helped a lot made the task very easy. bearings I ordered from you were a direct to fit. will definitely come back.
Nice, thanks for sharing! Will be doing this soon on our kart. Stay safe!
What's the best pully or spring to use with a fully built 224 motor and a juggernaut I think I over powered mine and destroyed it
Quick question!! You said to use the middle hole for the spring.. what are the other 2 outside holes for? Making adjustments for faster or slower engagement??
What does the 1 2 3 holes do? I know it hold the spring but what happens if I move the sring from hole 1 to 2 or 3 ?
If looking from the front of the torque converter with the holes on the bottom of the driven pulley the left hole is the lower torque/flat street/race track setting, the middle hole is the middle torque and street/off-road, the right hole has the most preload and is the high torque setting which increases wear but allows for hill climbing and taller tires than the other settings.
What does it mean when the belt gets caught up into the driven unit?
Im no expert but it could be 3 things. 1: your belt might be too small. 2: your belt could be worn 3: your dive unit might be offset.
Can you make video of inboard and out board for 30 series
I did some reading but want to make sure im correct. Is the #1 hole 1200 rpm engagement, #2 hole 2200 rpm, and #3 hole 3100 rpm? Depending on which position you use, will it change your overall top speed, or only change at what rpm it engages? Also, what rpm changes do the yellow spring for the 30 series make vs. The green spring. I heard it's stiffer, making engagement later. But how many rpms later? I currently have a kart with a predator 212 tweaked to about 10hp. Turning 5500 rpm. It has a 10 tooth and 72 tooth. 20 inch tall tire. Does gps verified 50mph which is fast enough, but loses speed on inclines significantly. I don't want to go any slower, but want to improve low end torque.
I too am having trouble getting answers from this pitiful site. Hole#1 I would presume that being the RPM engagement rate is lower. Since the TAV will start going higher into the gear ratio. The engine will have started lower speed and will have more ratio to work with and speed up to normal rev limit/valve flutter... Thus making the speed increased. Torque is also affected. It will be lower. Every engine has their RPM with the most power, what you started about the RPM of Hole #2, 2200 RPM is the best torque and HP curve for the 212 Predator. Any higher is considered overdrive. Just my 2 cents.
@@bobby3h From the way I understand it the holes just change the tension. The hole that gives the most tension would delay the shift the longest. I'm not sure how it would effect top speed. Once it shifts it is then up to how much engine is available to move the load with the given gearing.
I would love to see you install a yellow spring in the driven unit. Hard to do with one person
No,it's the same method. You just have to have the strength of an adult.
what was file for lol
Hello. Which color spring is softest, allowing the driven pulley to open up easiest? Thank you.
Green.
can someone help me to get my go kart running the wheel is stuck don't know what's wrong
Do you know what size snap ring that is? I need to have mine replace because it's missing
Best explanation yet!!!
my tav goes to overdrive too early and reducing my top speed too much. any advice? I can't get engine into top end power band
What do you mean? The front shaft that goes to the crank? Or the drive shaft in the back. And by overdrive do you mean the belt moves in or out?
Bradley n Emilee forever I found the problem. The engine I built was way to powerful. I put a stock engine with a governor and got the same top speed. Then I pulled the built engine off put it in a shifter kart frame with a centrifugal clutch and my heavy ass got 55mph.
@@vtecbanger3180 did you have a cam and flywheel?
@@Exclusv I do
@@vtecbanger3180 so a stage 2 is too much power for a torque convertor? I gotta stage 2 should I switch to a clutch?
Once I got the snap ring off, the cap won't come off. No matter how I push, twist, wiggle... is there a trick?
same here as well, don’t know what i’m doing wrong
did you end up figuring it out?
@@josiahkunstman8168 Yes. I used a metal file very carefully on the lip as I held it down, until the cap would come out smoothly, but not loosely.
A lot of times the metal has "mushroomed" on the unit shat , stopping the cap from coming off . Only way I have found is to put it in a vice , or hold it down with something heavy , and using a pry bar , pry it over and off . Hope this helps someone reading . ps To get back on , either file down the mushroomed metal or I use a soft blow hammer to tap it back on
Very good information, well done video.
Very good.👍
Thank you!
Loctite on plastic keeps customers coming back for more...
Seriously, most helpful video I've seen yet, I'm rebuilding an old go kart would you be available for me to ask you some questions whether it be over email or how ever you would like?
valtor60 Give Gary a call at 866-846-5278
What color spring for most torque?
The spring tension only changes engagement speeds
Greetings I hope you are well, if someone can help me buy this clutch for my son's go kart with an 8hp engine and it does not have strength going up, which springs should I mount so that it has more strength going up and torque than speed on flats. Thank you.
Awesome video Sir!
Caleb McKenzie ok
Great video! Could you please make a video showing how to remove the driven unit from a jackshaft? I have what I believe is a yerf dog 3203 with a comet 30 series tc. I ordered a new spring and buttons from you guys to rebuild the driven, but I can't get the stationary sheave of the driven unit off of the jackshaft. Surely it wouldn't be threaded onto the jackshaft would it? The outer cam was stuck so bad that I had to use a puller and the only reason the puller worked is because the outer cam cracked in two! The stationary sheave appears to be stuck just as bad. I am beginning to worry that I am doing something wrong. If I knew for sure how it is installed on the jackshaft, I'd be able to come up with a better method of removing it. Thanks!
+Diana Finley Jackshaft is not threaded. It just slides off once you remove the end nut. If rusted on it may require
a little persuasion ( Hammer).
I used a pry bar and deadblow hammer to get it most of the way off and then used a punch to knock it the rest of the way loose also make sure to use plenty of penetrating fluid
I take off the whole jack shaft, put the nut on part way (to cover the threads) and slam the thing onto concrete.
thank you soooo much!
Thanks. Great video
Thank you!!!!
Man I had no idea those were replaceable I just ordered a new one smh
Glad to help!
yes see I have this problem where my go its belt is turning its just that the wheels aint my dad thinks its that the belt isn't gripping but I don't know so I wanted to her it from a perfessional
👍👍👍👍
Carsandcameras
Drivenpulleys
This is not as easy as he makes it look lol but then again I’m 14 but I am macanicly in cliend to so it’s a eeeedr kinda thing lol