Metal Planer Restoration 46: Turning a Shaft and Installing a Pulley and Gear
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- Опубліковано 12 лис 2020
- After finishing making a new gear and flat belt pulley from castings that I had poured from patterns I made, I needed to make a custom shaft to mount them to my circa 1890 New Haven Metal Planer. This video will go over the process I used to turn a shaft on the metal lathe and cut keyways on the vertical milling machine so that I could mount these parts to the metal planer.
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Awesome to see my castings completed👌
WTF!! What's with the white racist hand sign?
@@Frankowillo It is known as "A-OK!" Refering to the machining job on the pulley and gear.
@@Frankowillo WTF are you imagining? I know what the snowflakes say about the A-OK sign, but snowflakes are simply stupid (and wrong).
@@Frankowillo you’re a fucking idiot.
And you need to leave this site and go back too reading the Soros and Obama handbook written by Saul Alinsky. Michelle and Hillary like the book too.
Keith, I will refer you to BS46 that is British Standard 46. for the installation of Gib head keys. They were the number one fixing in my day as an Agricultural engineer. When fitted correctly, not smashed home with an oversized hammer, they are good fixings and easy to remove with an engineers wedge, in the small sizes.
With the larger shafts there was/is a key puller, one of which I had to make for my practical exam. Enjoying your restoration work immensly.
Yeah, these young folk haven't a clue ;)
@@millomweb So many times I've heard moans about gib heads but fitted correctly they were good.
seems that Keith does not read comments, mail him.
@@elrond12eleven That does seem the case, at least the info is avail for others who may not have much or any experience with these keys.
I am not a machinist and don't even have a shop in my garage, but I sure enjoy your videos. Your ability to convey your love of machinery to someone outside of your art makes you, in a way, the Bob Ross of machinery. Thank you for making these interesting and informative videos.
That machine looks beautiful. Especially when compared to how it looked before you started restoring it. Can't wait to see it up and running!
We are many who are eager to see it operate. It has been a nice project.
You've put so much work into this beast and it's been a privilege to watch the journey. Even the scraping. Looking forward to seeing her make chips!
Gday Keith, one step closer to the big day, it’s a lot of work but it’s worth every minute, you will have a great machine that will last for another hundred years, wish I had one but I’ve never seen one here in Australia where I live, I’ll just have to settle with the shaper I have, take care mate. Cheers Matty
Gorgeous project so far and looking forward to the chips! Still wanna see the pussycats though! It’s like Pancho the parrot on the Sampson Boat Company repair channel you helped out with! Love your generosity Keith!
That is a truly impressive piece of work on a beautiful old machine Keith! That final tapered key was preeettttyyy darned tight though.
One giant leap for the metal planer !
Keep moving forward, Keith.
Not a machinist, but am fascinated by your knowledge, precision, and calm demeanor during your videos. Love your videos and look forward to seeing more. Thanks for your efforts.
Jack
18:35 "The key's tighter than I want it to be"
Err, well you hammered it in that tight ! I'd have stopped hammering it 3 hammer blows earlier ! Yes, it sticks out - but so what. You knocked the other one in too far too !
Beautiful work !
Beautiful work as always!
Its looking so good.
Great show as always.
YAY! I can't wait to see it working agian!
Thank you for posting. Excellent update
Anxious to see this planer put through its paces.
Along with everything working the planer looks great!!!
Great job
Thank you again Keith have a good day.
When the shaft was flipped over you could see the V-block drop. That is why the second key-way was too shallow.
I love this restoration
Well done!
Getting closer. I'm so excited to see the metal planer working again.
Looking forward to seeing it running!
Under power! Nice sound. Thanks for the video.
THANK YOU...for sharing. Very nice.
Nice. Thank you for the video. Have a good day.
great project
Awesome! I cant wait to see that thing make some chips !
Nice little project, looking forward to the clapper box work and see the planner in action.
Nice work Keith...
Instead of a New Haven Manufacturing planer, by the time you're done this will be a New Georgia Manufacturing made planer, great work! When you're done, you should make a time lapse video of all of the effort, showing from dilapidation to perfection.
One step closer to operation. Looks nice 👌
Lookin good, Keith
That shaft shire looks like it has a course finish.
I am a long term viewer of your channel. Thanks for taking the time to prepare videos of your work. If you were a little closer to norther Utah I would come and assist
The nose wedges are working fine, if you use them right. There should always be a gab between the hub and the nose to be able to pull them back out with a wedge puller. The size of that gap should be about the same dimension as the width of that wedge. The first wegde Keith drove in frist went mich too far and seemed not grab at all. It is also recommended to drive those wedges in with a lead or dead blow hammer to prevent any damage on the wedge head.
Go back through and check all the bolts there is all ways one that got missed, so excited for you. I have seen a shop with a line shaft once it had everything including a set of ceiling fans. Thanks for sharing!!!
Its amazing 🙂
The tapered keys are properly done when there is a space between the head and the gear wheels. The space allows a wedge to be used to remove the key.
Thanks
I doubt you will have to remove the keys.
Well, He nailed the space on the second one, lol.
@@SomeGuyInSandy I've just added a comment about him bemoaning how tight the key is - well it's him that's hammered it tight ! I'd not have knocked it in that hard - or the other one, for that matter !
AND note he said he used gib-head keys rather than straight keys held in with screws so it matches the machine - yet the gear meshing with the new on has a screw clamped key !
@@millomweb in part 17 you can see some of the other gears and they have gib head keys. Maybe the meshing gear was modified or replace at some point.
@@JusttheEdge Pity he didn't match the new one o it. It would have been a minor difference - even if he left the other end of the shaft with a gib-head !
It is nearly ready for another 100 years of operating!
Very enjoyable to watch, as always. I really like the practical approach, getting things done, when you turned that shaft. Not too much fiddling around or "unnecessary" precision. Probably similiar to what. they would have done in production originally (minus the carbide tooling, that is..)
Don't confuse poor craftsmanship in a big workshop on youtube with correct practice, just because someone was ignorant enough to record it and upload it. Read the other comments (not that Keith will) and understand all the things wrong in this video.
Rad!
Hi Keith, nice video as always. You seem to have an awful lot of spring on that lathe, cutting quite a bit when returning the cutting tool. I just compared it to when you made the "New Arbor for a General Model 350 Table Saw" on what seems to be a different lathe where you turned between centers.
Anyways keep up the good work.
Nice!! Great work... :-)
I still think that this will be done in time to finish the stoker steam engine
Tapered keys! Don't insert them all the way to the shoulder then you can use a wedge to get them out when needed (first one)
I think you drove that second one in far too hard.
Another great video!
Gib Keys. Shopdog Sam demonstrates their installation and removal on his channel.
I typed out almost a verbatim comment then saw yours. Exactly!!
Oh, the joy of a successful outcome to a pile of work, that it looks easy is due to a lot of planning and attention to detail. Thank you for sharing that pleasure with us..
Nice and smooth, right!
You already put a set screw in the long shaft gear so putting a set screw in the other two gears would have made it uniform looking, and good up date!
I have an okay planer tool holder and the bits was my grandad's business 1921-1956 if interested
It looks better than the day it was built. I wasn't around when it was built, but that would be my observation. Lol👍
Getting close now, doesn't look like we'll be getting first shavings as a Christmas present though. I was surprised by how bad the finish was off the lathe today. Looking like something I would turn.
Great video I really like this project I have one complaint lol the tip of the tool looked chipped and did anyone else get frustrated with the finish on the shaft surely if it was polished any bronze bearings won’t wear out as fast moan over lol great video mr Rucker looking forward to your next video stay safe everyone god bless
Agreed, better quality tips would help or quite frankly good old HSS tooling, the homeshopists friend, could have given a far better finish and size. I am always suspicious when you get a severe cut on the back cut. If you do get such a cut, it is better to return the carriage at a far slower rate and not leave a spiral which you can't accurately measure. The job got done so that is all that really matters but perfaps a little end float should be considered to finesse the fitting.
@@littleworkshopofhorrors2395 I totally agree.
@@ElmerJFudd-oi9kj sometimes i feel that homeshoppists use TC insert tooling just because it is used in industry and therefore must be better for them too. A mistaken assumption on so many levels.
@@littleworkshopofhorrors2395 I totally agree I love shaping hss tooling then honing the tip no better feeling I only use carbide tooling on harder metals all the best
@@tattoos1988 yup, and for heavy bulk removal.
Hiya Keith
Hi Keith, saw the "Fay and Scott" lathe in the background. Don't remember seeing anything in your videos about that lathe. Did I miss an episode?
seems like the gear mesh is a little tight if neither bevel gear is tight on the shaft
Good morning from St John Parish, Louisiana 13 Nov 20.
I apologize for an incorrect comment on a previous video. I stated that you needed to consider drop factor when moving in a single tooth form cutter on a gear. I misspoke, drop factor only applies when cutting an involute tooth using an involute generating cutter, like a gear shaper cutter or hob. 50% of caliper diameter is correct when using single tooth form cutters.
Did anyone else think that those gears were very tightly meshed?
It seemed that way. Maybe it was just the camera angle?
@@hilltopmachineworks2131 The gear measured properly by way of having the diametral pitch per spec. After its been run-in for a while with grease I'd expect a .002-.005" backlash. When the original gear stripped it was most likely up to .020 backlash with the slop in both bearings and open gears having 100 years of trash on them.
@@stancloyd Thanks for the info.
yes
If the key doesn't fit just take a bigger hammer. And break it as usual.
Amazing you don't need any lubrication on that part
This is a wonderful project, and am glad to see the progress.
I do wonder tho, why all the diddling around with the edge finder and the DRO? Wouldn't it be quicker and as accurate to simply touch off on the top of the shaft, with maybe a center drill to make a mark?
@@ralphgesler5110 It's somewhere up there. If it isn't perfectly square the keyway will be off-center making the key insertion difficult. Cured by a bigger hammer.
Good morning Kieth.
on the key way, don't you bring the knee up till you have a flat of the diameter of the endmill then go the depth of half the key?
yes
There should be a gap as it allows you to put a wedge in to remove it
Nice and smooth?
When adjusting the cross bar feed screws (before you tighten the gears in place) do you have to make the measurements with a certain amount of weight, or tension, in the force being applied downwards ?
I assume there would have to be an equal downwards force on both sides simultaneously. Unless that assembly weighs hundreds of pounds, you probably need a (pressure) scale on each side - with the clapper box centered of course.
17:56 All that fuss over key types and the two gears now show 1 key of each type !
wow, sure purty
Yeah, good luck gettin that key out pal......
Seems that style of key, hammered in like that, would be more difficult to disassemble. If it is too loose in the fit it might be prone to wander out as well.
Hi Keith, was that one of your cats giving headbuts to the camera stand at the opening?
Maybe he left the shoulder strap hanging from it and the cat was playing with that.
Or it was earthquakes caused by his missus hanging out the washing ;)
Which is better than a 2-point or 4-point cutter when milling a slot
Thanks Keith
kimberzelik@youtube
17:50 satisfaction!
I noticed on that lathe that when you finished a cut and went back to the start the cutter was taking off a good amount of metal, creating almost a screw thread, why does it do that? I know at times due to flexing you can take off a small amount with a spring pass but that looks exesive.
Why use tapered keys when you tapped and added set screw on the orginal gear?
Keith, how would you remove the beveled key on the gear? It looks too close to remove.
What causes the lathe to cut when you bring back the crossslide? Is it just tool rub, backlash or a rigidity problem?
It is caused by "spring back" as the forward cut is made and the tool is pushed backward by tool pressure. When in the return direction happens there is little tool pressure so the tool moves slightly forward and cuts a spiral in the shaft.
I hope its just me. Yet something wrong with the cutting there. He pushed in, yet coming back off the cutter wasnt done.
To me the gibs are loose. On the way in the tool is deflecting, on the way out the slack has relaxed and the tool is cutting more.
It's because he's making the cut with a chipped insert and the tool pressure is greatly increased. Horrible surface finish and significant cut on tool retraction.
Yeah I agree the cutting tip looked chipped and the finish on the shaft annoyed me lol surely it should be smooth so not to wear the brOnze bushings out
Keith when is the steam engine and line shaft to be installed????😏
I'm surprised to see no means of lubrication or bronze bushing on the shaft. Is it sufficiently lubricated by the carbon (graphite) in the cast iron?
Where is that flex coming from, the tool holder, compound or both? It’s a lot.
He's using a chipped insert which caused significant increase in tool pressure.
How come you didn't need oil or coolant to cut those keyways?
Is the toolpost loose or something? Why is your insert cutting a spiral when you move it to the right after each cut?
I wondered that too.
It's because he's using a chipped insert which causes a lot of tool pressure. It's also the reason for the horrible finish.
Who's the cat that won't cop out when there's danger all about?
"Shaft"
Right on
ua-cam.com/video/Q429AOpL_ds/v-deo.html
1" 50 thou sounds like it is metric
I’m here to steal some of your subscribers 🤭😂
Andrew? Great guy with lots of rare stuff. Leave your wallet in the truck! Andrew will sell you something if you don’t! LOL.
👍👍👍👍🛠⚙️
Tapered keys. Shouldn’t the keyway in the gear be tapered to match the key? Seems like the key would only hit on the outside edge of the keyway.
Going to have to keep the cats off the cameras. LOL I noticed in the intro they seemed under attack.
Hello Keith,
I don't know if this is the right place to contact you but I am looking for a straight gear for an old Barnes 4 foot lathe 1883 vintage. The episode where you fixed a tooth in a gear with bronze ....I believe you mentioned if you had known there were gears to be bought you would not have welded it but just simply bought one. It is a small straight gear like the one you fixed. It is 4 and 9\6" in diameter 1/2" thick with 70 teeth and it has a press fit shaft size of 0.8470 OD Could you please help me in finding a gear for this machine and the address or site please
Thanks so much in advance. Really like what you are doing on youtube.
Randy B.
How come when turning the shaft on the lathe the diameter was exactly 1in then when at the mill the DRO stated 1.48** ?
0.48 is the diameter of the edge finder.
@@richardl7161 great. thanks!
Hope you don't want to get that pulley taper key out!
looks like things could use a little lube on the shaft you just made.
I was just about to say the same, no lube ?
My thoughts too, but I've noticed it before. Keith doesn't seem to like grease..