Interested in building it yourself? Plans are available HERE: www.etsy.com/shop/BYOTools?ref=shop-header-name&listing_id=1396101371&sort_order=date_desc
It's great! My shed has been completed and it turned out nice looking and sturdy and it is way better than the sheds that many of my neighbors had put up. Of course, I'm pleased with the outcome and this Ryan's ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxGZedDTcDfgD7fG_uU4esfx_EgxzlY2_1 Plans was extremely useful to me as a guide.
Looks good but I did notice a lot of flaws. The windows didn't open. They need to open and have hardware cloth, not chicken wire. The chicken wire only keeps chickens in, not predators out. The ramp needs rungs to help the chickens up without slipping. There should be ventilation on all sides of the coop. The nest box didn't look like it had anything at the back to stop any rain from getting in. Another safety measure would be to have hardware cloth all the way around the outside parameter of the coop/run to prevent any animal from digging under.
Great instructional video. Great woodworking techniques here. Specifically for a chicken coup, there are several points to be mindful of to improve on your next coop build. Ventilation and drafts, chicken wire vs ½" hardware cloth, roosting bars, chicken ramp, and extra predator proofing (on the ground perimeter, rafter openings and fasteners). Ventilation can enter the lower end of the rafters and exit the higher end, but it would be better to add vents high up on the side walls. Make sure the vents are higher than where the chickens will ne roosting so they don't feel a draft. Seal the door against a draft. Poor ventilation can be detrimental to the health of chickens, and drafts can be deadly for chickens. Chicken wire is universally unacceptable for securing chickens against predators. Chicken wire keeps chickens in, but large and determined predators like foxes, raccoons, possums, skunks, cats and dogs, falcons and owls can shred it. Smaller predators like snakes and weasels can slip right through. And mice and rats will be able to enter the run for food and water. You also want to bury hardware cloth around the perimeter, extending out at least 18"-24" to discourage digging. You can cover it with topsoil or landscaping rocks. And don't forget to seal openings in tbe rafters with hardware cloth as well. It should be fastened well with nails or screws with washers every foot or so, and 18 gauge staples inbetween. Also, the lid on the nesting boxes needs a predator-proof latch. Raccoons can defeat simple latches and that lid is not heavy enough to keep them out of it. Remember, raccoons can climb, squeeze through, throw their weight arpund, push and pull. They open trash can and dumpster lids all the time. Even in urban and suburban environments, you would be surprised what predators lurk at night. Some chickens will be sliding on that ramp. They need better traction. Install some treads on the ramp with your trim wood. The greater the incline of the ramp, the more treads needed. Roosting bars should not be so flat as the 4" side of a 2x4. They do not like to sleep perfectly flat-footed. At least, take your router and bullnose the corners so they can comfortably wrap their feet around the edge instead of wrapping their feet around a sharp 90⁰ corner, and use the 2" side up. 2x3's would be better if you've got them. Lastly, the slide-out poop tray is convenient. I did not see any handles on the board to pull it out. Maybe I missed it. This could be a rope handle. Keep in mind that the nesting boxes also need to be cleaned, so you might want to design a convenient way to sweep those out as well.
5⭐ chicken coop, great build! 👌👍Dunno about your area but in mine you usually do well to bury the chicken wire 8 or more inches into the ground to stop foxes and other predators from digging their way in. 👍
This is awesome but I will say instead of using chicken wire use hardware cloth because raccoons and other night predator will find a way in and kill your chickens so be careful
awesome job 👍 FYI raccoons/fox's will be able to push underneath the netting underneath the coop, you need to put a frame around the bottom and staple the netting to it like you did the run. Also put a lock on the laying box. I lost chickens because raccoons are too smart
I bought these plans because I liked the design, however, I disagree with the statement that it is preadator proof as designed. There are several things I did to improve the design. I started by putting tar paper under the coop floor and nesting box floors. After building the platform, I applied 1/2 in hardware cloth to the sides and bottom with the exception of the side the run attaches to. I used big washers and 1.5 inch screws. I painted the floors as well. I also ran PT 2x4's between the legs to give the hardware cloth an attachment point. I used 2x2's on the inside corners of the nesting box which makes it a lot stronger - I had considered putting legs on it, but don't need to now. Also, designed as is, water will/does get into the nesting box where the top connects to the coop. I solved this by running trim above it with a drip edge so water drips away from the seam. I also ran 1/2 in foam strips on the top edges and installed 1/2 in trim inside the nesting box with the foam for contact there. This design leaves the space between the top plate and the roof open - a great place for any number of creatures to enter, so before attaching the plywood sides to the coop, I covered the eves with hardware cloth. I then applied self-stick tiles to the floor which makes cleaning eaiser. I made the windows so they could open. Just built a frame to go into the openings - connected with hinges so they swing up, added trim to the inside window frames and screwed on a piece of plexiglass. Installed hardware cloth on the inside to cover the windows. Currently hold them open with a trim piece - looking into alternatives. I don't know where the extra material comes from for the trim used in the design - I didn't have it, but I used 1x2 trim instead. Doesn't cost much and looks way better. The run had several design issues. First, it just sits on the ground. I attached it to a flat ground contact pressure treated 2x4 and took 1.5 inches off the wall height. I did use the pocket hole screws, but made the mistake of them being on the outside instead of the inside. I also put another horizontal 2x4 halfway up the wall in order to secure the hardware cloth more efficiently. Otherwise, it would have had way too much slack from top to bottom. The plans also leave the eves open which is also a way for creatures to gain entrance so I covered those with plywood - and above the coop door as well - you get a good piece to do this from the angled section you cut for the front/back walls. The run door is also poorly designed - it can't possibly hold up with only pocket screws holding it together. I used 6 inch screws to hold it togther as well as steel L brackets. You could also use triangle pieces in the corners. I also added a horizontal 2x4 in the middle. This door presents some challenges as the wood used to frame it is never straight. I suggest using 3 hinges as mine still needs to be tweaked. One last thing - the plans call for 5 sheets of plywood - this doesn't give you enough for the run roof - which is one whole sheet. Buy 6. The plans also don't really tell you where the run attaches. I attached it so it's even with the sides of the coop which looks nice, but most likely isn't correct since the roof rafters seemed short - but it worked out - except for an open space at the bottom that needed to be filled. The materials used in the plans for the roof - metal roofing are way too expensive. A much cheaper alternative is to just use a 36 in wide roll of asphalt roofing material - like a roll of shingles - available at Lowes. I put the tar paper on, the flashing, then cut the roof material to length. Sure - I had a big overlap, but I paid way less and didn't have to cut metal sheets. I also was careful to only nail into the rafters. There is some left over from the 50 ft roll. Lastly, I dug a 16 in deep trench around the 3 sides of the run and put hardware cloth into it - again attached to the run with washers and screws. This prevents anything trying trying to dig in. The use of chicken wire connected with staples in the plans is wholly inadequate. I thought painting the interior was a good idea, so I used a cheap sprayer from Harbor freight that I have used on my wood fences - but it really makes a mess. I also used a few tubes of caulk on all the seams. We also put 2 hasps on each end of the nesting box, bolt locks on top and bottom of the run door plus gate latches on both dors - all secured with carabiners. I also put a plug on the inside at the top which can be connected to power via an extension cord. This will enable me to run a fan in the summer and a heating pad in the winter. All in all, this is a great plan, well designed. I don't mean to bash it - it just needs a few tweaks. Our 4 chickens are enjoying it.
Hi. I just purchased your plans. I love the detailed drawings. The only thing i was disappointed in was the actual number of each piece of material needed. If you have that, i would surely appreciate it. This would really cut down the number of trips to the lumber yard.
Try not to cut a metal roof with a grinder. It is fast, but it also makes it rust faster. That is why you never see roofers use grinders. They all use shears.
make steps about an inch high and the width of the chicken rramp so the chickens have something to grab onto with their talons as they go down the ramp ( i didnt see those on the ramp in your video )
To add to this: if you ever notice your chickens are not laying eggs: a bit of a draft is something they do not like at all (which the big door probably will cause)
Wow! I was just thinking about how to build a chicken coop! I know it won't be as nice as yours, but you've inspired me 😀 I would love to see you build different sizes of chicken coops. You are an inspiration to me 😊
Thanks so much for watching and the very kind words. Truly appreciate them. Plans coming soon. If I were to make a different size is the one in particular you would like to see?
Good Morning! 🤔 about 6ft long by 3ft wide for the nesting area and then a run area. I live in a neighborhood and our town allows 4 chickens. I truly appreciate Any help 🙂 Thank you so much!!
Congratulations, amazing job! You just gave me great ideas about my next chicken coop :) As a chicken keeper and a very amateur dyi person, however, I would like to point out some issues that I learned only by keeping chickens, if I may. I would recommend wires in the windows covered by a slideable plate from outside instead of glass: chickens need good air ventillation. Also, after I spent considerable amount of time trying to clean the nesting boxes, I made the front panels of the boxes completely removable in the manner as you did with the dividers (except for the two laths are not on the base but on the side, so the closed lid holds the front panel in place, that made the cleaning process so much easier. I also connected the legs of the coop with laths at the bottom to fasten the wire to that also, just to be more safe. One or two feets deep guard around and under the walls also required - wire, tiles, bricks, whatever - to prevent animals that desire some chicken for dinner, from digging in - but I guess that is not your job to do :) I so envy your tool set btw :)
You're sold out of plans. Artificial restriction of a digital file means you don't get my $15 but have earned my ire resulting in unsubscribing. Have a good day.
Hey Chris. I apologies for the error. I just moved my digital plans from my own website to Etsy for a number of reasons. New to the whole Etsy thing and for some reason they require a quantity for a digital plan. NOT trying to have an artificial restriction, please understand that. I'll have to look into it a little further and see what I can do about changing it. Hope that makes since and you reconsider on being a subscriber.
Awesome video! Well built Chicken coop. I must say 1/2” wire cloth is recommended over chicken wire to keep out mice/rats as they can easily squeeze through the hole. Also, add ventilations on all 4 sides of the henhouse. Other than that I’d order one from you!
@@jesusislord2149 we use 1/2" galvanized hardware cloth. Chicken wire isn't strong enough IMO. Costs a bit more but think it's worth it. It can also be stapled like chicken wire
Fancy little chicken coop! However, I am concerned those Chickies are going to become supper for foxes raccoons possums or whatever. I like the dusk and dawn automatic door! That may do the trick. It would be really good to have buried some type of fencing a foot or so into the ground so predators cannot get in. Also, traditional chicken wire is very, very easily dismantled by predators like raccoons. A few staples on chicken wire won’t last long. Just a little bit of advice from someone who has seen a LOT of chickens disappear to raccoons!
Excellent design/build. My 2 suggestions are legs under nesting box for extra support and wood strips across the ramp so that the chickens have traction walking up.
hi! Really nice chicken coop and run. Ive picked up some good ideas to build mine. If you dont mind, I think it needs two important details: one, some plastic or metal to cover the nesting boxes so the water doesnt run inside, and two, the ramp needs some sticks attached on top (simulating a ladder) so the chickens dont slip off when they go out or into the coop. Finally, chicken poop is rather toxic, so it also needs some ventilation (by drilling some holes on the walls you can do it very easily). Greetings!
I thought that he was going to leave the angled opening at the roof/wall intersect open but he went all of the way to the roof with the wall. Put sealed flashing over the holes to prevent water from getting into the coop. 23:24
Too much of a hassle dude, I'm looking for a budget chicken coop for only 2 chickens which you can build in 4 hours and with less of the tools and materials. Can you show me a sketch so that everyone can build it from scratch with not much money to spend on tools or material. Thank you.
Love your videos but obviously you have no experience with chickens😂 That coop will be filled with rats, chicken wire is useless. You need to use quarter inch mesh. Plus you need to frame the bottom and dig down to avoid raccoons digging under.
well I think you sold me on the wagner sprayer because I sure love how even that looks as well as how fast it seems to go. I am almost done with my coop and it has been a nightmare. But in the end, my girls will be happy
@@BYOTools 1/4” 18 gauge hardware cloth. You secure it to the leg posts, leaving no gaps, from the floor to the ground. Dig down about a foot and then outward, also a foot, and bend the hardware cloth out into the trench you’ve made. Place bricks or large rocks on the outward bending portion and cover with earth, gravel, or whatever suits you. Inside of the crawl space, put a layer of hardware cloth 8-12” underground and then cover with earth, then whatever will be used in run and crawl space. 👍
That’s determined by the difference between the front wall and back wall. The distance between the walls will determine the angle. It maybe different for different coops.
Haha I'll keep that in mind so I don't get myself stuck in a chicken coop again haha! Thanks for watching and keep up the amazing work on your channel.
Ventilation, the wholes in the net are big enough for rodents to get through, the nest roof needs the same roofing, it’s better to put the base on the rocks so the water from the rains could go through and save wood….
Love this chicken coop. Like made for me, lol. 😊Yeah awesome size for 2 to 3 chickens. Love the height and under the coop you can have the water and feeder. Thanks for posting
Hi. Well done. A few suggestions: - yes, THE COOP NEEDS VENTILATION. Even just a few holes near the high end of the roof will vent ammonia, etc. Do your own research. - in that vein, WINDOWS SHOULD OPEN. Otherwise it becomes a hotbox. - YOU WANT A LOCK ON THE EGG DOOR. Raccoons are notorious and very deft. You need a two-step lock, not just a hook. Same with the main access door. - CHICKEN WIRE will keep chickens in, but not predators out. This includes neighborhood dogs. Coons just reach into the wire and pull a chicken out piece by piece. Hardware cloth is better. - I assume food and water is hung at the run's main entrance. Where are the hooks?
You do cant hide that crack. Remember crack kills . Get some waterproof gorilla glue for crack and a clamp . I don't know what I like more the coop or your voice. this build really turned out awesome. Now . Where's the chickens? you should put a smart tv in so the chickens have something to watch like this. love your channel btw. Thanks for such an awesome video . ua-cam.com/video/unW7UYXSQNY/v-deo.html
Looks like a coop made for making you work. No commercial coop would be made this way. You need heavy wire mesh for the floor so you don’t end up shoveling shit every week. Then you need an automatic chicken door, auto feeder, auto water, and auto egg catcher. Nice build!
We just watched your video and I want to commend you on your skills, unreal! I'm a carpenter myself and am super impressed, gonna try my luck at one of these...have a blessed day
Great approach to the design. It only needs improved ventilation and suggest covering that piece of OSB or the floor to be covered with a piece of remnant sheet vinyl to make cleaning out easier.
This is the most informative video that I’ve seen for a novice to build a chicken coop for my chickens. The thing is that most of the coops are designed with large fowl chickens in mind. I have Silkie chickens which are a bantam breed so I need a coop that is half the the height off the ground than most chicken coops because they don’t really like heights. Additionally, the roosting bars need to be at least half the height off the floor of the coop so the coop itself doesn’t need to be so tall. If you are really interested in designing a coop for my needs, I would really like a design that meets theses requirements. I would love to have a 4x8 platform with the last foot at the end for the nesting boxes 4x1, leaving the main coop with the dimensions 4x7. The opening to the run on the opposite wall of the nesting boxes and the cleaning door for my access on the long side. I’ve never seen it before, but I was thinking that a drop bottom with hinges on one side for cleaning would work best for a coop this size except not dropping under the nest box. Even if it was two sections of 4x3 1/2 drop bottoms with a 2x4 beam between them. And then a beam between the nest boxes and the rest of the coop. I know that’s a lot to ask but if you would like to design something like this it would be exactly what I would need.😊 Is there a way to contact you? Ginger
This is a great build! We want it to be able to fit through our gate so 4 feet is perfect. However, 5 feet for the length would be ieal so we could have 5 chicken as planned. Do you have plans for a 4x5? Thank you!
Have absolutely no need for a chicken coop but after watching I want one. Also very similar way to make a small play hove for young kids just without the cage 🤣🤣
Interested in building it yourself? Plans are available HERE: www.etsy.com/shop/BYOTools?ref=shop-header-name&listing_id=1396101371&sort_order=date_desc
looks great but I think ventilation ports should be added to keep coops well vented during hot days and reduce moisture buildup during the cold days
Agree, and add grips on the ramp
I was thinking the window could be a mesh vent instead with a removable glass pane for winter.
It's great! My shed has been completed and it turned out nice looking and sturdy and it is way better than the sheds that many of my neighbors had put up. Of course, I'm pleased with the outcome and this Ryan's ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxGZedDTcDfgD7fG_uU4esfx_EgxzlY2_1 Plans was extremely useful to me as a guide.
Looks good but I did notice a lot of flaws. The windows didn't open. They need to open and have hardware cloth, not chicken wire. The chicken wire only keeps chickens in, not predators out. The ramp needs rungs to help the chickens up without slipping. There should be ventilation on all sides of the coop. The nest box didn't look like it had anything at the back to stop any rain from getting in. Another safety measure would be to have hardware cloth all the way around the outside parameter of the coop/run to prevent any animal from digging under.
Great instructional video. Great woodworking techniques here. Specifically for a chicken coup, there are several points to be mindful of to improve on your next coop build. Ventilation and drafts, chicken wire vs ½" hardware cloth, roosting bars, chicken ramp, and extra predator proofing (on the ground perimeter, rafter openings and fasteners).
Ventilation can enter the lower end of the rafters and exit the higher end, but it would be better to add vents high up on the side walls. Make sure the vents are higher than where the chickens will ne roosting so they don't feel a draft. Seal the door against a draft. Poor ventilation can be detrimental to the health of chickens, and drafts can be deadly for chickens.
Chicken wire is universally unacceptable for securing chickens against predators. Chicken wire keeps chickens in, but large and determined predators like foxes, raccoons, possums, skunks, cats and dogs, falcons and owls can shred it. Smaller predators like snakes and weasels can slip right through. And mice and rats will be able to enter the run for food and water. You also want to bury hardware cloth around the perimeter, extending out at least 18"-24" to discourage digging. You can cover it with topsoil or landscaping rocks. And don't forget to seal openings in tbe rafters with hardware cloth as well. It should be fastened well with nails or screws with washers every foot or so, and 18 gauge staples inbetween. Also, the lid on the nesting boxes needs a predator-proof latch. Raccoons can defeat simple latches and that lid is not heavy enough to keep them out of it. Remember, raccoons can climb, squeeze through, throw their weight arpund, push and pull. They open trash can and dumpster lids all the time. Even in urban and suburban environments, you would be surprised what predators lurk at night.
Some chickens will be sliding on that ramp. They need better traction. Install some treads on the ramp with your trim wood. The greater the incline of the ramp, the more treads needed.
Roosting bars should not be so flat as the 4" side of a 2x4. They do not like to sleep perfectly flat-footed. At least, take your router and bullnose the corners so they can comfortably wrap their feet around the edge instead of wrapping their feet around a sharp 90⁰ corner, and use the 2" side up. 2x3's would be better if you've got them.
Lastly, the slide-out poop tray is convenient. I did not see any handles on the board to pull it out. Maybe I missed it. This could be a rope handle. Keep in mind that the nesting boxes also need to be cleaned, so you might want to design a convenient way to sweep those out as well.
You should turn your nail gun 90° when nailing vertically. It will reduce all the blow out your always having.
Thanks for the helpful note Alan. I'll have to keep that in mind next time.
5⭐ chicken coop, great build! 👌👍Dunno about your area but in mine you usually do well to bury the chicken wire 8 or more inches into the ground to stop foxes and other predators from digging their way in. 👍
This is awesome but I will say instead of using chicken wire use hardware cloth because raccoons and other night predator will find a way in and kill your chickens so be careful
Chickens will cut their necks on chicken wire, too
Have you made a 10x8 coop with the plan without the run?
awesome job 👍
FYI raccoons/fox's will be able to push underneath the netting underneath the coop, you need to put a frame around the bottom and staple the netting to it like you did the run. Also put a lock on the laying box. I lost chickens because raccoons are too smart
I noticed that too. Also, bury 18-24" in the ground to keep 'diggers' out.
I bought these plans because I liked the design, however, I disagree with the statement that it is preadator proof as designed. There are several things I did to improve the design. I started by putting tar paper under the coop floor and nesting box floors. After building the platform, I applied 1/2 in hardware cloth to the sides and bottom with the exception of the side the run attaches to. I used big washers and 1.5 inch screws. I painted the floors as well. I also ran PT 2x4's between the legs to give the hardware cloth an attachment point.
I used 2x2's on the inside corners of the nesting box which makes it a lot stronger - I had considered putting legs on it, but don't need to now. Also, designed as is, water will/does get into the nesting box where the top connects to the coop. I solved this by running trim above it with a drip edge so water drips away from the seam. I also ran 1/2 in foam strips on the top edges and installed 1/2 in trim inside the nesting box with the foam for contact there.
This design leaves the space between the top plate and the roof open - a great place for any number of creatures to enter, so before attaching the plywood sides to the coop, I covered the eves with hardware cloth. I then applied self-stick tiles to the floor which makes cleaning eaiser.
I made the windows so they could open. Just built a frame to go into the openings - connected with hinges so they swing up, added trim to the inside window frames and screwed on a piece of plexiglass. Installed hardware cloth on the inside to cover the windows. Currently hold them open with a trim piece - looking into alternatives.
I don't know where the extra material comes from for the trim used in the design - I didn't have it, but I used 1x2 trim instead. Doesn't cost much and looks way better.
The run had several design issues. First, it just sits on the ground. I attached it to a flat ground contact pressure treated 2x4 and took 1.5 inches off the wall height. I did use the pocket hole screws, but made the mistake of them being on the outside instead of the inside. I also put another horizontal 2x4 halfway up the wall in order to secure the hardware cloth more efficiently. Otherwise, it would have had way too much slack from top to bottom. The plans also leave the eves open which is also a way for creatures to gain entrance so I covered those with plywood - and above the coop door as well - you get a good piece to do this from the angled section you cut for the front/back walls.
The run door is also poorly designed - it can't possibly hold up with only pocket screws holding it together. I used 6 inch screws to hold it togther as well as steel L brackets. You could also use triangle pieces in the corners. I also added a horizontal 2x4 in the middle. This door presents some challenges as the wood used to frame it is never straight. I suggest using 3 hinges as mine still needs to be tweaked. One last thing - the plans call for 5 sheets of plywood - this doesn't give you enough for the run roof - which is one whole sheet. Buy 6. The plans also don't really tell you where the run attaches. I attached it so it's even with the sides of the coop which looks nice, but most likely isn't correct since the roof rafters seemed short - but it worked out - except for an open space at the bottom that needed to be filled.
The materials used in the plans for the roof - metal roofing are way too expensive. A much cheaper alternative is to just use a 36 in wide roll of asphalt roofing material - like a roll of shingles - available at Lowes. I put the tar paper on, the flashing, then cut the roof material to length. Sure - I had a big overlap, but I paid way less and didn't have to cut metal sheets. I also was careful to only nail into the rafters. There is some left over from the 50 ft roll.
Lastly, I dug a 16 in deep trench around the 3 sides of the run and put hardware cloth into it - again attached to the run with washers and screws. This prevents anything trying trying to dig in. The use of chicken wire connected with staples in the plans is wholly inadequate.
I thought painting the interior was a good idea, so I used a cheap sprayer from Harbor freight that I have used on my wood fences - but it really makes a mess. I also used a few tubes of caulk on all the seams. We also put 2 hasps on each end of the nesting box, bolt locks on top and bottom of the run door plus gate latches on both dors - all secured with carabiners. I also put a plug on the inside at the top which can be connected to power via an extension cord. This will enable me to run a fan in the summer and a heating pad in the winter.
All in all, this is a great plan, well designed. I don't mean to bash it - it just needs a few tweaks. Our 4 chickens are enjoying it.
needs some ventilation there.
BYOT, it is impossible to follow what ANYONE has in his/her mind. So can you show us from a drawing where you are headed? Thanks.
How much for you chicken coop for sales? I have 4 chicken
The nicest chicken coop I've seen on UA-cam! Good job! What were your material costs? How many hours did you put into it?
Thanks so much Gordon and good questions. Materials where right around $1,200 and I'd say it took me about 35 hours total to build.
@@BYOTools Not bad at all! Thanks for the reply.
Im trying this now but using wood from pallets. Wish me luck
Hi. I just purchased your plans. I love the detailed drawings. The only thing i was disappointed in was the actual number of each piece of material needed. If you have that, i would surely appreciate it. This would really cut down the number of trips to the lumber yard.
mine came with a cut list on the last two pages.
@@jamesanderson2778 how much roughly was the cost of supplies?
The chickens will be living in style! We're glad you had the Wagner sprayer to apply the finishing touches
Definitely made life easier on this project. Thanks so much for all the support.
Are coop plans available yet? I didn't see them on website yet? I'd like to adapt to an 8x4 coop. Great video! Thank you!
Plans are finally available Julia. Thanks so much for watching and asking: byotools.me/shop
Are the 4x8 plans still available? I purchased the 4x4 on Etsy and realized I need a bigger coop and would like to purchase the bigger
Pretty. But needs ventilation. Only 2 or 3 chickens should b here
Try not to cut a metal roof with a grinder. It is fast, but it also makes it rust faster. That is why you never see roofers use grinders. They all use shears.
make steps about an inch high and the width of the chicken rramp so the chickens have something to grab onto with their talons as they go down the ramp ( i didnt see those on the ramp in your video )
Great suggestion Erik and I'll make sure that ramp has some type of tracking like that :)
@@BYOTools glad to hear. Don't need hurt poultry
To add to this: if you ever notice your chickens are not laying eggs: a bit of a draft is something they do not like at all (which the big door probably will cause)
Do your plans come with a cut list?
Wow! I was just thinking about how to build a chicken coop! I know it won't be as nice as yours, but you've inspired me 😀 I would love to see you build different sizes of chicken coops. You are an inspiration to me 😊
Thanks so much for watching and the very kind words. Truly appreciate them. Plans coming soon. If I were to make a different size is the one in particular you would like to see?
Good Morning! 🤔 about 6ft long by 3ft wide for the nesting area and then a run area. I live in a neighborhood and our town allows 4 chickens. I truly appreciate Any help 🙂 Thank you so much!!
Congratulations, amazing job! You just gave me great ideas about my next chicken coop :) As a chicken keeper and a very amateur dyi person, however, I would like to point out some issues that I learned only by keeping chickens, if I may. I would recommend wires in the windows covered by a slideable plate from outside instead of glass: chickens need good air ventillation. Also, after I spent considerable amount of time trying to clean the nesting boxes, I made the front panels of the boxes completely removable in the manner as you did with the dividers (except for the two laths are not on the base but on the side, so the closed lid holds the front panel in place, that made the cleaning process so much easier. I also connected the legs of the coop with laths at the bottom to fasten the wire to that also, just to be more safe. One or two feets deep guard around and under the walls also required - wire, tiles, bricks, whatever - to prevent animals that desire some chicken for dinner, from digging in - but I guess that is not your job to do :)
I so envy your tool set btw :)
You're sold out of plans. Artificial restriction of a digital file means you don't get my $15 but have earned my ire resulting in unsubscribing. Have a good day.
Hey Chris. I apologies for the error. I just moved my digital plans from my own website to Etsy for a number of reasons. New to the whole Etsy thing and for some reason they require a quantity for a digital plan. NOT trying to have an artificial restriction, please understand that. I'll have to look into it a little further and see what I can do about changing it. Hope that makes since and you reconsider on being a subscriber.
Try building something close as yours out of recycled wood (skids and discarded crates) yours is to expensive!
Awesome video!
Well built Chicken coop.
I must say 1/2” wire cloth is recommended over chicken wire to keep out mice/rats as they can easily squeeze through the hole.
Also, add ventilations on all 4 sides of the henhouse.
Other than that I’d order one from you!
Thats a great and helpful not Benjamin. Thanks for the suggestion and I'll let the client know that. Thanks for watching.
Do you think 1/2” would be enough even for small rats? Or would you recommend 1/4”?
@@jesusislord2149 we use 1/2" galvanized hardware cloth. Chicken wire isn't strong enough IMO. Costs a bit more but think it's worth it. It can also be stapled like chicken wire
Fancy little chicken coop! However, I am concerned those Chickies are going to become supper for foxes raccoons possums or whatever.
I like the dusk and dawn automatic door! That may do the trick.
It would be really good to have buried some type of fencing a foot or so into the ground so predators cannot get in.
Also, traditional chicken wire is very, very easily dismantled by predators like raccoons. A few staples on chicken wire won’t last long.
Just a little bit of advice from someone who has seen a LOT of chickens disappear to raccoons!
Excellent design/build. My 2 suggestions are legs under nesting box for extra support and wood strips across the ramp so that the chickens have traction walking up.
I swear he says “Let it started”. Every video I hear this
Very nicely done. Great instructions. What about ventilation for the coop?
Awesome chicken coop, did you cover the exposed chicken wire in the bottom inside of the ? Just wondering
I would love to see a larger chicken coop made with the run if possible... Great video
Super nice 😊 I'd advice you to making it, finding another solution than a hatch above the nesting hens. This is really stressing for them.
Plus it will leak if the rain is blowing in the right direction.
hi! Really nice chicken coop and run. Ive picked up some good ideas to build mine. If you dont mind, I think it needs two important details: one, some plastic or metal to cover the nesting boxes so the water doesnt run inside, and two, the ramp needs some sticks attached on top (simulating a ladder) so the chickens dont slip off when they go out or into the coop. Finally, chicken poop is rather toxic, so it also needs some ventilation (by drilling some holes on the walls you can do it very easily). Greetings!
I thought that he was going to leave the angled opening at the roof/wall intersect open but he went all of the way to the roof with the wall. Put sealed flashing over the holes to prevent water from getting into the coop. 23:24
Excellent! This can easily be so much more than a chicken coop!
No kidding. My dad could've raised 4 kids in that thing.
Well this family does have three young kids so I'm sure they will have many uses for it haha!
LOL! Bunkbeds anyone?!
wow .. you and Robert from Under Dunn have best coops in the towns ...
this could be some epic battle :)
Ooh Brent’s up with the chickens lol
As always LOL! :)
Too much of a hassle dude, I'm looking for a budget chicken coop for only 2 chickens which you can build in 4 hours and with less of the tools and materials. Can you show me a sketch so that everyone can build it from scratch with not much money to spend on tools or material. Thank you.
Друзі допоможіть будь ласка ,Я з України, Зв'яжиться зі мною,Я поясню як. Дякую
Love your videos but obviously you have no experience with chickens😂
That coop will be filled with rats, chicken wire is useless. You need to use quarter inch mesh. Plus you need to frame the bottom and dig down to avoid raccoons digging under.
Damn Brent chicken coops too..... nice
Gotta trying something new right?! haha. Thanks for watching Miguel.
why is Slovenia on those doors? yeah it looks like chicken but its SLOVENIA mate. a country. not a chicken
I'm strongly considering this coop, but in reverse. And roof to save the rain water. Maybe 4' × 8' or 10'
well I think you sold me on the wagner sprayer because I sure love how even that looks as well as how fast it seems to go. I am almost done with my coop and it has been a nightmare. But in the end, my girls will be happy
I see people always putting plywood UNDER the walls. Then when the floor rots you need to remove the walls to replace!
Any idea how many 2x4s and plywood sheets are used in this build?? I bought the build plan hoping it would have a material list but it sadly didn't.
My concern would be predators digging under the chicken wire.
Do you have experience with stopping predators from doing that? Thanks for watching.
@@BYOTools 1/4” 18 gauge hardware cloth. You secure it to the leg posts, leaving no gaps, from the floor to the ground. Dig down about a foot and then outward, also a foot, and bend the hardware cloth out into the trench you’ve made. Place bricks or large rocks on the outward bending portion and cover with earth, gravel, or whatever suits you. Inside of the crawl space, put a layer of hardware cloth 8-12” underground and then cover with earth, then whatever will be used in run and crawl space. 👍
Love the design. Have you built one double the size to house more chickens?
How r u keeping rainwater from coming down the wall into the egg laying boxs?
What exactly is the glass that you bought for then window? Any link? Thanks
What angle is your roof?
That’s determined by the difference between the front wall and back wall. The distance between the walls will determine the angle. It maybe different for different coops.
I would like plans For a cube size to accommodate 2 to 4 dozen chickens.
so many issues. ill be nice and say 50/50 correct building. and no idea how to paint ugh.
Thank you for the great video. Was trying to figure how to do roof. Now i understand.
Absolutely bad video - he does not show how he builds the chicken coop. we see only the final result. waste of time.
What do you typically charge for something like this?
$5,000 all in
Thanks for asking but this was a one off :) Just keep in mind that materials alone were approximately $1,200.
If you ever need a stunt double to do your intros let me know haha i know your intros word for words now 😅
Haha I'll keep that in mind so I don't get myself stuck in a chicken coop again haha! Thanks for watching and keep up the amazing work on your channel.
@@BYOTools Thank You!
Why didnt you just do a birdsmouth with the rafters vs depending on a metal bracket?
Ventilation, the wholes in the net are big enough for rodents to get through, the nest roof needs the same roofing, it’s better to put the base on the rocks so the water from the rains could go through and save wood….
beautiful work! about how much does it cost to have one built.?
He answered this up above. He said about $1200
arent chicken coops supposed to be open on top? for airflow? like the roof is supposed to be on 6 inch wood bricks or something
Love this chicken coop. Like made for me, lol. 😊Yeah awesome size for 2 to 3 chickens. Love the height and under the coop you can have the water and feeder. Thanks for posting
I think it can't hold more than that.
Good stuff there. I really appreciate the ideas
I thought pressure treated wood isn’t good around chickens?
Is their a video for the average guy that doesn't have all the fancy tools that make it look so easy?
You split the wood with your first screw..😵💫
Hi is the plywood waterproof ?
Love how quick and simple the coop is. I need the cut sheet for the coop.
Is the laying box waterproof?
awesome
Hi. Well done. A few suggestions:
- yes, THE COOP NEEDS VENTILATION. Even just a few holes near the high end of the roof will vent ammonia, etc. Do your own research.
- in that vein, WINDOWS SHOULD OPEN. Otherwise it becomes a hotbox.
- YOU WANT A LOCK ON THE EGG DOOR. Raccoons are notorious and very deft. You need a two-step lock, not just a hook. Same with the main access door.
- CHICKEN WIRE will keep chickens in, but not predators out. This includes neighborhood dogs. Coons just reach into the wire and pull a chicken out piece by piece. Hardware cloth is better.
- I assume food and water is hung at the run's main entrance. Where are the hooks?
Will this coop hold 7 Orpington chickens?
Can you do metric
How Did you unpaint the door hinges? 😅
What is the damage of a build like this? like $2000?
They're just chickens, bro.
Project “In touch media”scam
Project “In touch media”scam
Gorgeous! My kitchen cabinets look extremely similar. If you don’t mind me asking, what did it cost you as well as what color white you got?
Pretty fancy, I'd live in there. I gotta be cheaper when I build my coop. No trim and OSB. No floor,hardware cloth w hay on top..cheap like that.
This is awesome !!! Can’t wait to build one for myself
Glad the video helped bud and I’m sure yours will turn out amazing!!! Keep up the great work on your channel.
You do cant hide that crack. Remember crack kills . Get some waterproof gorilla glue for crack and a clamp . I don't know what I like more the coop or your voice. this build really turned out awesome. Now . Where's the chickens? you should put a smart tv in so the chickens have something to watch like this. love your channel btw. Thanks for such an awesome video .
ua-cam.com/video/unW7UYXSQNY/v-deo.html
Awesome video! Thank you! Are you still intending to post the plans?
Thanks so much Ryan and plans are available NOW byotools.me/shop
Looks like a coop made for making you work. No commercial coop would be made this way.
You need heavy wire mesh for the floor so you don’t end up shoveling shit every week.
Then you need an automatic chicken door, auto feeder, auto water, and auto egg catcher.
Nice build!
We just watched your video and I want to commend you on your skills, unreal! I'm a carpenter myself and am super impressed, gonna try my luck at one of these...have a blessed day
New to your channel.
What about a rollaway nesting box.Loosestanding from the coop ?Haven't checked your previous videos to see if fhere is one.
How many chickens Can for here?
I love your carpentry techniques. I’m a woman but wish I can do kind of doing it my way 😊
Great approach to the design. It only needs improved ventilation and suggest covering that piece of OSB or the floor to be covered with a piece of remnant sheet vinyl to make cleaning out easier.
This is the most informative video that I’ve seen for a novice to build a chicken coop for my chickens. The thing is that most of the coops are designed with large fowl chickens in mind. I have Silkie chickens which are a bantam breed so I need a coop that is half the the height off the ground than most chicken coops because they don’t really like heights. Additionally, the roosting bars need to be at least half the height off the floor of the coop so the coop itself doesn’t need to be so tall. If you are really interested in designing a coop for my needs, I would really like a design that meets theses requirements. I would love to have a 4x8 platform with the last foot at the end for the nesting boxes 4x1, leaving the main coop with the dimensions 4x7. The opening to the run on the opposite wall of the nesting boxes and the cleaning door for my access on the long side. I’ve never seen it before, but I was thinking that a drop bottom with hinges on one side for cleaning would work best for a coop this size except not dropping under the nest box. Even if it was two sections of 4x3 1/2 drop bottoms with a 2x4 beam between them. And then a beam between the nest boxes and the rest of the coop. I know that’s a lot to ask but if you would like to design something like this it would be exactly what I would need.😊 Is there a way to contact you?
Ginger
Wow!!! Best looking chicken coop ever. Those will be happy chickens. Hope. you have a lifetime supply coming your way. LOL
I really enjoy your videos! Makes me wanna start crafting my own things, but I'm no good craftsman haha. Keep up the great work! - esteban
helllo, nice chicken coop! where can I get these remote controlled doors(hatch) if I live in Croatia/Europe? anyone sells these?
Hi
What is the size of the window you put
This is a great build! We want it to be able to fit through our gate so 4 feet is perfect. However, 5 feet for the length would be ieal so we could have 5 chicken as planned. Do you have plans for a 4x5? Thank you!
Have absolutely no need for a chicken coop but after watching I want one. Also very similar way to make a small play hove for young kids just without the cage 🤣🤣
I bought your plans. The material list before doesn’t give how many of each item we need. Is that available somewhere?
I've looked at a dozen+ of these videos, and yours is the best BY FAR, the most thorough, and the most complete! Thank you!
Lmbo, I think you might of just saved me. The part where you locked yourself inside with the latch is the same system I'm going to use.