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How to make musical flyback transformer driver| Easy and clean sounding
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- Опубліковано 19 сер 2024
- In this video I show my take on musical flyback transformer driver.
It's very easy to build - only handful of components.
If you have any questions feel free to comment!
Awesome & that's the spirit of sharing for things to keep evolving in the right direction. Thanks friend for the nice video.
Improved version coming soon!
Good job. Appreciate you showing the schematic.
Very awesome driver! Sounds great too! Keep up the good work!
Thanks man!
@@acquireelectricity1458 How do you have so little subs with such an awesome content?
That is probably because I started just recently. I started with this project, because I have seen a lot of musical flybacks and alot of them do not sound very good. The best sounding is from Franzoli electronics channel. So after alot of failed attempts this is what I came up with. Probably the simplest-best sounding driver
@@acquireelectricity1458 Yea, most of the ones on UA-cam have a lot of distortion. I also have been working on a musical flyback driver tho mine didn't sound as good as yours did. But that's most likely because I don't have it shielded well enough.
I'll probably make vid about it after I fix the issues I'm having with my tesla coil. Rn I'm remaking the enclosure for the tesla coil which will allow me to better shield the music part and the main PCB.
@@acquireelectricity1458 so I wasn’t the only one having serious troubles with Franzoli’s Flyback based on the schematics he has on his website?! I’ve been messing with that circuit for months and I’ve taken a break. Keep up the hard work!
That’s pretty cool. I’ve got an old Stun Gun transformer that will fit here nice.
Very nice work!
Love your handwriting❤
Interresting circuit! If I understand how it works correctly, you are driving the reset pin around hysteresis with your op amp and modulating it to be either high or low, producing some sort of frequency modulation on your output? If my understanding is correct, I am unsure this is a good way to drive your circuit, as you are loosing efficiency if say your signal is low and the mosfet is continuously on for one period. Also, your circuit does not have a negative feedback loop which creates more distortion.
Ideally, you would have a separate 555 timer driving the flyback at a fixed frequency or any other driver for that matter as an individual sub circuit and then you would switch that circuit through a PWM modulator. You could make a circuit like this with the same 555 timer by playing with the control pin and feeding audio to it. This way you made a duty cycle modulator and not a FM modulator as your period stays constant creating more stability and you could implement negative feedback with a single transistor too. I did something quite similar to this on my channel with a slayer exciter and got some quite impressive results.
For that matter, you could this circuit using a single tl494 chip and even drive the flyback through an H bridge using a few transistors, which would produce a much more powerful and cleaner sounding arc.
Oh and one more thing, be careful about driving a mosfet on a 555 that is switching hard and fast without some drive or resistor, your 555 might fail due to the current spikes. Your using a 460, that has a gate charge of 200ish nC, the 555 timer can give 200mA output current maximum, that means your switching time will be circa 1ms if I did my math right, which is very very slow.
Wow, thanks for advice, much appreciated. I have made few improvements since this video. Circuit works in that if input audio signal dips below zero I get 0v at reset pin, which turns of 555 completely, and if signal is above 0 it produces around 25khz for the mosfet. I am thinking of using 2 transistors(push pull) to drive the mosfet. When there is no audio signal( signal is low) the mosfet doesnt stay on It's discharged aswell ( as per my primarys ammeter). The problem I had with cv pin is that when there was no signal it still arced, but I suppose there is a way of fixing this
@@acquireelectricity1458 Thanks for getting back! With pin 5 being the modulator pin that is exactly what you want for highest fidelity, a 50% duty cycle and depending on the audio intensity, the duty cycle would swing around there. You are not creating a new spark every time which would create serious distortion and feedback would be fairly straight forward to implement. Using a push pull driver is a good idea.
Honestly, I would say ditch the 555 timer entirely and use a tl494 ic, as you can implement a driver, an amplifier , an oscillator and a negative feedback system in a single IC, and if you use a couple transistors to make a NOT gate you can get an H bridge to work even!
Or if you are really hellbent on the 555 timer, use a circuit with 2 separate timers.
@@ivanrodionov9724 I would like to ask some questions. I wrote you an email
@@acquireelectricity1458 Just saw it and replied to ya :)
Awesome work
Thanks man!
me podes asesorar sobre el diodo tvs que usaste y que otros podrian ser ? gracias y saludos desde Argentina buen video
Thats really neat bro! I'm still learning the basic of electronics, could u show material list?
I believe you can find it in the replies of my comment "if you have any questions feel free to comment"
@@acquireelectricity1458 thank you real much!
@@otaviofischer4414 no problem!
We don’t need a opamp a single mosfet can do that
can you show me all names of the components? pls
Hi well made circuit!..
I’m from Argentina i like your way to make the diagram.
So i have a question;
12v DC are for the NE 555 and the LM358 right?
And i can power up the irfp460N diagram part whit 12v DC and not whit 45v DC? …
@@kwkrefrigeracion9549 you can use 12v also for the transistor, but you get bigger arcs with higher voltage (more power)
@@acquireelectricity1458thank’s for the data!!
is there a pic if it would be on a bread board
Damn... The main circuit works very well, but totally I Burned 2 mosfets .
Try adding zener diode (15v) across gate and ground, 555 timer can produce voltage spikes and mosfet gate only takes up to 20v.
Thanks!
Ok, I will check it out)))
If you have any questions feel free to comment!
pls, can you give me a list of all elements that you used in it?
@@alvaroayala2020 555 timer, lm358, bc337-40 npn transistor, 470ohm resistors, 50k potentiometers, 150ohm resistor, 10k resistor, led, irfp260 or irfp460 mosfet, button, 200v or 342v tvs diode, also add 15-18v zener or tvs from gate to gnd
100uf electeolytic, 100nf ceramic, 2nf ceramic
@@acquireelectricity1458 100 uf electeolytic with 16 V?
@@alvaroayala2020 needs to be above vcc
can the driver be used with a pre-built ZVS driver circuit. and if so where in the circuit would I tie it into the 12v input of ZVS driver?
Sadly, I don't know the answer to this question, maybe someone else might be able to answer it. I don't know a lot about zvs drivers yet
Well you can try driving a mosfet that switches power to the zvs circuit, except you'll need to remove 555 part and add mosfet driver ic
Hii . What is the name of the transistor between 555 and 358 ??
Bc337-40
You can use any small npn transistor as long as It has bigger breakdown voltage and current used in the circuit, any npn 1amp or even 0.5amp and 50v will do nicely
@@acquireelectricity1458 Ok .Thanks for answer .
Ηello there. I have a question.. this opamp can take 32 volts dc.. if the supply voltage is 45 volts then doesn't that mean that the opamp will "die"?
Opamp uses 12v in my circuit, only the load has 45v, in other words i use 2 power supplies with common ground opamp gets 12v and load gets 45v
@@acquireelectricity1458 Thank you for such a fast reply.. so what I did is that I powered the whole circuit with 12 volts, and it worked like a charm! I also drilled a hole on a pc heatsink and screwed the irf460 on it so I can have a fan-cooled heatsink... I want to ask you something though. I measured the audio input to make sure that there is no current to kill my audio source and somehow I measured 20volts DC that could easily kill anything plugged to it. (Connections all checked) Do you have any idea on how to fix that?
@@yiannisyiannis add a capacitor in series of audio input, it should remove dc and leave audio signal mostly unaffected, you can use 1-10nf or similar
Alright.. I will do it and then let you know if it work!
Alright so I added the capacitor and ofc it blocked DC! That worked.. I dont rlly want to bother you with all my circuit issues but... I rlly want this to work in musical mode...when I open the switch for some reason the circuit stops working... the power LED turns off and no audio... I dont know what is causing this.. do you have any advices on what could have cause this? Or at least some ideas on where to look at for issues... (you got my sub by the way :)
is it a class D spark gap amplifier ???
I don't know. It switches power to primary at audio input frequency
@@acquireelectricity1458 what ever it is , its brilliant . thanks for a good vid :)
@@garygranato9164 thanks for the kind words!
is your Vcc voltage 5 v?
No, its 12v dc, you can use up to 20v, i'd recommend 18v
@@acquireelectricity1458 if i make it does it really sound this loud? And another question did you use 3.5 jack for your audio input? And what does that NO contact exactly do on the emitter of the bc337?
@@erfansoltanlou4836 the npn transistor is for the reset pin of the 555, you can put opamp output directly into 555, but i found using npn transistor helps with noise issues. At 45v primary input and about 15a it sounds very loud as you can hear in the recording.
@@erfansoltanlou4836 it doesnt matter which jack you use the audio input in my experiments comes from my phone, in newer circuit I use RCA jacks
@@acquireelectricity1458 what kind of power supply should i use for both 18v and 45 v current wise 🤔
No offence but I've made better sounding ones than this.
Nice, good for you. I don't claim It's the best driver, but It's simple and that is what I was going for.
i wanna see
@@alvaroayala2020 very well, here ya go:
ua-cam.com/video/0cCh9TfpMzo/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/8ju6NjNMvjA/v-deo.html
The schematic I showed in one of the videos is wrong because my brain wasn't working, so here's the corrected schematic:
drive.google.com/file/d/1AqnFsBBgQhiS-L3Ek__QWLm7_X_IdJrh/view?usp=sharing
Yes Clem and you've built some shocking crap stuff as well in your time. Err no offense bruv.😎💕🖖