Billet SMX Block… SBC Roller Thrust Bearing….Back From The Dead 1969 Camaro.
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- Опубліковано 11 кві 2024
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Steve, I was a gear head way back in the 70's and 80's. I could watch the CNC machines all day long and never get bored. I could never afford to purchase one of you're engines, hell I can't afford the merch but I do love watching you and Cleet. Thanks for the content and have a blessed day. 😊
The first part always takes the longest. And if you only want 1, that's why it costs so much more!
Hell,I would just order 2😂
How long would it take if you had no CAM and had to program it with G codes?
It IS a billet block, so having it look like one makes sense to me. As Always, May God Bless you and yours! 😇
Those tool paths in the “wader” jackets probably on a micro scale actually help shed heat into the coolant.
Almost like micro “fins” if it were an electronic heat sink… 👍🤘
i think that depends on how the water flows past it. if it's rough in the wrong way, you'll have little eddy currents that will trap a bunch of heat in pockets next to the metal. if it's rough in the right way, it's extra surface area, like you said.
That is a beautiful 69’. That blue really sets it off!
18:08 The burlesque music while showing off the “naked” block was a nice touch. 😂😂
Agreed!! Better than Pornhub… not .. that .. I’ve .. ever.. been.. there…
SM could now be an acronym for "Sexy Machining".
@@stephcooper5998 🤣
maybe those two need a room... grin
Beat me to it :D Amazing work :D Very sexy
Aluminum oxides with oxygen. Vacuum heat treatment and annealing should leave the finish natural brite. It's also possible to pack the surfaces with inert material like boron.
I like seeing the tooling marks
Even the rough finish looks cool to see how the machine works.
Me too. Love the look.
I LOVE Sugar Momma!!!!!! 😁😎 I was sporting a Steve Morris Engines hoodie at the PDRA East Coast Nationals last weekend!!!!!
😊🤘
A dry deck, billet block!!
Is worth its weight in gold!!!
Such an amazing block!!
SME is my local hero!!!
Super cool!!
Totally agree!
How many billet blocks will you have to machine before you see a ROE? Including the machines, electric, labor etc?? Maybe too much of a personal question but I’m just curious. Seems like it would be in the thousands. I know doing it in house was one major reason for investing in everything.
@@86753092quick don’t even want to think about it.
when it comes to the finish, my opinion is...
the water passage areas that get covered by the plate, should be "rough". reason being, more surface area for water to contact and transfer heat from. same reason for fluting gun barrels. it looks cool and makes the barrel lighter, but it also creates more surface area to help cool the barrel.
everything else, could be smoother, but I like the rougher "machined" look personally. and it might also help with heat dispersion in the open air.
should put your SME logo all over the block like a Louis Vuitton
Uggh... Tacky. Like Roland Sands bikes, every seperate part has RSD embossed on it. Looks f*ckin' ridiculous. 😂
The hazing of the aluminum was likely caused by the heat treating oven having too much oxygen in it. You guys seem to keep their ovens as oxygen free as possible. I like the pattern you are achieving during the final machining of the block. As long as you limit it to only the exterior surfaces of the block.
Just became a member. YAY!😊👍💪
Welcome to the family!
Go back 40 years and look at our junk. This stuff is beautiful. Absolutely beautiful work. I wish I was younger 👍💪
1000% the finish is amazing. I have seen a lot of billet and it's almost always cool. But to add a little art to it is just something you don't see often.
Love it! Biased opinion, I’m a machinist… more stepover! We wanna go fast. That’s it!
Steve - on the final machining *YES* but with a twist...at a very prominent spot (noticeable/visible on the finished engine - maybe on the outside of the water jacket plates) on the block - alternate the .075 prominence/depression lines so that your "SMX" logo is integral to the final finish (switch prominence to depression at the outline point of the letters).
I like the surface finish you were showing-off at 18:00 minute mark and it probably helps carry away more heat because more surface area than a polished finish.
Again, whomever picks the music for your videos is awesome.!!!
The montage of the block with the cabaret music was fandamntastic! I was laughing.
Just wanted you to know I love your UA-cam channel. Growing up, I always wanted to be an engine builder .but never had the opportunity. I have built a couple in the shop for my own race car but nothing near what you build. I did have an 6.86 in 1/8 th 383 sbc.. But nowhere near what you build. So keep up the great content.
I had my lady friend of 26yrs buy a t-shirt this way she can become my sugar momma! Already have the napkin stating if she wins the car its mine! Fingers crossed, I'll have 2 sugar mommas that have the same year of birth.
Steve, the first thing I thought of when you hooked up the car to the hub dyno was you need to build some kind of protection around it. If that blower would have blown on the hub instead of in that room, who knows what would’ve happened.
Not how it works.
When a car is on a dyno, you stand clear. You don’t stand on the radial plane of the dampener, flywheel/flexplate, and most crest any not the drive shaft.
You can’t shield a car on a dyno. I’ve seen a driveshaft get literally punched through a brick wall.
All those videos you see where people are right next to the car etc. is not a representation on how it is done. Those can all collect a Darwin Award. There is one place to stand in a dyno room, and that is several yards off to the side in front of the car.
If that’s not possible, leave the room and wait outside if you’re not running the car.
Look at Steve’s dyno videos. Nobody is near the car and all are off to the side in front of the car.
A blown impeller is not a common issue so not even something you can easily do. It will be heavy, big, not fit all cars, create cooling problems etc.
He doesn’t dyno in front of 30 people so the easy sollution is to just stay out of harms way.
Man, Must be nice to have all the THINGS to do All the STUFF with
Using that non polished finish provides more surface area for heat dissipation.
Might be pretty insignificant, but would be something.
If that's in the water jacket area, not sure how fast the water flow is, or if that would cause cavitation which might affect cooling.
The first one you need to mount in the office on a turntable with proper lighting. It’s a work of art.
The groves form x shapes almost. Idk y but It seems like a straight line grove would look better like v shape or even a cross hatch in intersecting directions would look almost like brick pattern or if it's small you could almost hit a carbon fiber looking effect. But if that's cool and efficient that works just fine.
That is a beautiful camaro sir.
Time is money and unless the end user is holding it up to his nose, tool marks are fine as they do not affect part integrity or performance.
Good to see our favorite doggo Dewey doing his customary cameos. Cheers!
Helps with water heat dissipation = more surface area and direction of flow
Although I am a FORD guy, I really admire what you do...Love building engines...
I love watching your machining videos :) Keep up the amazing stuff Steve!!!!
the rougher the surface the more surface area to dissipate heat which is a good thing for a engine especially a race engine
Eye candy AND incredible power. Perfect combination
That goldish tint on the heat treated aluminum block is the nitriding process. Used to harden the metal.
The dullness of machined block can be caused by old coolant in the CNC machine. Your new machine has fresh coolant so it protects the exposed aluminum from corrosion. As coolant ages it becomes contaminated by salts, salt + heat will make aluminum dull.
Sick idea to be able to trade sugar momma back for credit towards an engine! If I won that's what I'd like to do myself!!
I would use a very rough CNC overlap on the cooling passages of your block because I believe it will create extra surface area for improved cooling
I made the same comment before finding yours!
Yes I like the machine lines kind of like Noonan billet blocks I'm not saying to make it look like theirs but there's does look pretty nice also!
Offer the block in different finishes and see which one people will pay for as obviously fine finishes will require more machine time.
be interesting to run some cooling test on various "textured" water passages..... more surface area to transfer heat to water.... e.i: .25" ball mill on .5 centers
I love this channel. Always learn something. Thanks Steve an crew
ACTUALLY CUTTING TIME!, did you see Steve’s face when he asked his guy that? He soooo loves what he does..
Equidistant toolpathing is always A+
Tom is a big man, football player big, that car is absolutely beautiful inside and out plus it goes like hell. Thanks want to see him drag drive this year.
previous heat treater might have used solution heat treating. you should make the pattern in the water jackets even deeper and rougher, more surface area to transfer heat. in fact, you could just add fins to the water jackets to improve cooling,.
Man Oh Man ,Toms Camaro is on a whole new level ! Wow
Love the tool path look!
I think finish patterns look awesome!!
The perfect cap to the end of work.
The finish looks great, it might even work as a heat sink and help with cooling.
That does not add anything in terms of surface area worth a temp difference. It's purely cosmetic.
I've had "yellow" degreasers cause machined surfaces turn to a matte finish, even when heavily diluted.
Only function matters, not how it looks. In the water jacket area you should have ribs in the block to increase surface area and run parallel to the coolant flow. In high stress areas you can go with a more polished look to relive stress and avoid cracks. I see doing this around the mains and cam tunnel / lifter bores.
Agree. No use to introduce stress risers. Besides, there is elegance and beauty in a great design.
Regarding your rough look / wide stepover. With that finishing strategy, You are actually increasing the surface area, and that might be a good thing.
Very beautiful work 😍 much love from Pennsylvania 🥳🇺🇲😎
Man oh Man that blue Camaro is on a whole new level.
On your way to half a million subs Steve... I've loved watching this channel grow. Keep the contentcoming my man. Good work
The fist bump @8:37 makes Steve look like he has baby hands. 🤣
Once he gets the programs fully proven he will find ways to speed it up even more when you get confident in the machine set up and tool paths. I think you should do one to show what it looks like if you do want that type of finish but it would also be a decent up charge due to the additional machine time.
hi steve love the videos keep em comeing!
The step over finish looks very cool. Can’t wait to see the final product. 🎉
Great content thanks for sharing
I’m buying one. Don’t have a car to put it in yet. But I’ll have the engine at least 😂🎉
Personally I think that the machining marks are what makes it cool. That could be from 20 years working around the old manual machines so I can appreciate what the marks represent.
I think the .075 step look is sick. But to produce those on a larger scale it maybe a little Labor intensive cost ver reward side of it. But I guess if they got the money. You got the golden jewel of a block ready to go.
Oh no, I want Sugar Moma all the way.
I think you should anodized (clear or color) every surface that doesn't create a heat transfer surface. The aluminum oxide layer doesn't transfer heat as well as the bare aluminum.
Had to put my sunglasses on to watch this one !
Great Video! Always nice to see Dewey, even if for just a second. :)
Start entries to win one of your billet blocks please mate
Absolute work of art 🥰
Great video , very informative. I like the finish you are considering on the block. I do not blame you for wanting to keep Sugar Momma ; a very, very nice drive and drag car; it ticks all the boxes.
That billeted block is just amazing.
Man I'd love to come over there for a walk through and meet all the crew, that would be one awesome bucket list thing ticked off the box ☑️😊👍
Maybe after People see just how much Work and Time goes into the creation of a Billet Block they will Understand Why This type of Engine Cost's so much. Great job Steve loving this type of video, Sure has opened my eyes mate.
Loving the Engine series BUT CANT WAIT TO SEE THE WAGON Down the Track again.
Love from The Land Down Under 😘
Not to mention thousands of hours design time.
@@jonbraid2520 100 % mate 😉
I'm not super Keen on Ascetics, i'm more a If it works cool guy, but that looks cool as well
Fine finish almost cast look
I love seeing the tooling marks.
Plus the extra surface area obviously increases cooling (ha ha!)
the course finish would be better where the water jackets would be for the increased surface area?
When we heat treat after repairs, on LARGE forged pump barrels - the stud holes are what give us nightmares - imagine if you drilled stud hole before heat treat....
Both water and oil follow the path of least resistance, so the smoother the inner surfaces are. The better the flow.The outters surfaces. I would just glass bead them to make it look like a cast peace if I am got full sleeper mode.
However for cooling water, a rough / finned surface offers better heat transfer.
I love the idea of adding art to it, we used to make things with art.
Seems to me like when you have a rear thrust engine like that and then you add a rollerized thrust in the front that you would want the rear thrust to make contact first where a little bit and then begin to touch the roller thrust especially under high boost in launch
I love that block
I run some billet 6065 cases on a big bore single 2 stroke atv motor...so much nicer than the stock cast cases from Honda. Billet ftw
My opinion on the surface finish especially in the water jacket pockets is a slightly rougher surface would provide sort of a heat sink effect. More surface area in contact with the water to provide better cooling. Could even add some small "hills" or vanes in that pocket to cause water swirl and possibly provide better cooling of the cly walls?
Steve, Next step would be a horizontal cnc machine pallet center. keep that spindle turnin!
Classic music intro for the block…rockin!
Hell yeah Steve, “Grab em by the billet blocks”.😁
🤣
Yes. Keep the step over it will be unique to the SMX billet block.
Never thought I would say a hunk of aluminum looked beautiful excellent machine work
Solution and age are done in furnaces. Ovens are for annealing and baking cakes. I would use a raw sample of block (specimen to use as a coupon for lab testing, section and mount micros) you could leave it attached the block and cut it off after heat treat.
Thanks for Showing The World How This Happens..!!
Steve and crew....love your content!!
Your energy bill at shop has to be astronomical with all the machine work happening. Even on 480V 3PH it must be upwards of $10-12K a month.
I work at a event/convention center. About 2.2M total sq feet...2 out of our 3 buildings the energy bill is about $45K a month with 18% of the buildings supported with solar energy.
Keep it more course. Heat dissipation :)
Gotta have something cool. Noonan does a cool finish.
Cast iron is the next big thing.
Love the look of the finish but could that not hold on to air bubbles?
I like the new style machining on the block.
216 👍's up Steve Morris thank you for sharing 🤗
SOOOOOO satisfying
Wooo-Wo, I like that finish.