When you tap, use some oil and go back and forth when it gets difficult, that helps clear the chips and tap easier. Go clockwise mostly, but counterclockwise a bit when it gets hard to clean the tap.
Awesome video man. I’ve got the twisted 4 with a 20 and the guys over at mudskipper told me to check this out. Definitely think I’m gonna have to try this. Keep up the good work
Preston Harris huge benefit. I had to take my video down of it running in the water, but I'll try to make a new edit of it and get it back up. I got 23mph from the 6.5 on a 14' jon boat.
What prop did you order? Like do you have the link to it? I order me the high speed 8.5x8” and the blade is too wide much longer than my shaft bolt so it wont even thread on. Should I get the 8x5?
Have you tested the different size props yet? I'm running the twister xl with the predator 420 on a 1542 monarch. I'm getting 16mph out of it stock, I have the stage one kit on the way. Also how are you feeding gas to your motor from your can, do you have a pump in line?
I started to test these new ones, but within a few minutes I had a bolt vibrate loose on my crankcase cover and started leaking oil. I'm going to take the motor apart and re-torque everything with some blue loctite. So I didn't get to finish testing yet. I also have a pulse pump on top of the motor that draws fuel from the tank. Where I hunt is about a 6 mile or so boat ride and I got tired of having to stop and refuel on the water.
I'm having the same issue lol. My muffler vibrated loose today and I didn't have a wrench to fit it. By the time I got to the ramp and was pushing it up on the trailer I watched it sink to the bottom. I got home and my carb bolts had vibrated loose and also a fuel tank nut. I'm gonna pick up some locate and do the same when my stage 1 kit gets here.
Well I got my props yesterday got the tapped out and installed and went and tested it. I can't believe the difference, I put a ply wood floor in my boat and lost 5mph. With the 8 " prop I gained 8 mph so now I'm running 18 with a 1642 heavy boat. I'm glad you posted the original video even though it has vanished. By the way a 5/8 sae washer will fit without drilling just a tad smaller that the rubber seal. a 3/4 is the same size as the seal just harder to line up with the shaft and almost too big for the prop.
I had to remove the original video because I was informed that I couldn't be in the specific lake I was at until later in the year. I'll hopefully get a new one up soon. But yea, huge difference. Try different diameters for best performane. I can't comment on the XL kit, but on mine I had better performance with the 6.5" verses 7" so far, but I still have more tests to do. Also, it turns out you want the prop kind of tight. My last swap I started leaking grease. I took the hub apart, and it there's a spring loaded piece that looks like it presses against the seals to keep the grease in.
Yeah I noticed that seal when I had mine apart, mine leaked bad when I ran it it tightened up more but it still seeps a little grease out. I bought a 7, 7.5,and 8” prop only one I've tried so far is the 8" with a gain of 9mph but it's not completely accurate cause my stage 1 kit and props come in same day, and I didn't test with the stage 1 kit before I changed the prop. What I've read the 8 is about what I need for my boat but I heard smaller is better. I kinda hope the 7 works best cause you can find stainless tapered props for about 100$. Where I'm at it's a shallow river with gravel bars and big rock,and a ton of logs and I just don't see an aluminum prop lasting very long.
Im thinking that the first log you hit with the aluminum prop is going to break a blade off. Are you just testing these cheap props until you buy a expensive stainless prop?
I've only hit the prop on a log once. It was the aluminum one while turning around in a tricky spot and it didn't do any damage. While actually moving though, the skeg kicks the prop up when hitting things. I was able to get the boat over a log about a foot out of the water with no issues. I actually prefer the aluminum props. When you hit a rock or log with a good amount of force, all that energy will transfer up the driveshaft and into the crank on the motor. Out of those pieces, the prop is the easiest to change and with the aluminum ones, the cheapest at about $12 or so. Although the driveshaft in these are a steel cable with a little bit of give to them, I'd rather break a cheap prop than anything else in the system.
I have a couple different mud motors all with the same basic setup. The aluminum props would not last an hour where I use them. On an average day I hit 5 to 12 stumps. I have a real stainless steel Hill Marine prop on mine. And I have never had an issue with anything.
@@marshmadness4974 maybe in the future depending on where I hunt I'll invest in one. Right now I don't really have a need for it personally. Like I said, I've hit a few branches and logs, but I've only had 1 prop strike. But this is also a good way to test different prop sizes before getting a stainless.
I never did try it. It's the same design as the original one, just larger, so I'd expect to see lower performance than the factory one, even with a hopped up motor.
@@playinlikejimi the Twister XL prop is larger than the Twister prop. Because it is larger you should push more water and actually will push your boat faster. Not slower.
@@marshmadness4974 the problem with the factory one was the wrong pitch for this motor, so it was hard enough to get the smaller one into the right RPM range.
awesome video. exactly wat i needed.. iM GONNA MAKE A VIDEO OFTHE STOCK 3X BLAD VS 2 BLADE, AND SIZE COMPARSION ON ROCKY RIVERS SOON... ANYONE WITH A TWISTER (TWISTER CLONE) W/ 3BLADE STOCK PROP, READ THIS.. got a twister today first run, ALL STOCK, (ITS A TWISTER W/ GX200 CLONE OFF AMAZON) but its literally the exact smae as my buddys mud-skipper tiwster. only difference IS THE HANDLE DESIGN I COULD SEE.., an i got a g200 clone motor for free lol for the $$. i guesss we'll see how the clone twister lasts.. vs, mudskipper twister... ANYWAY, I PUT IT ON MY 30" WIDE 11FT Flat bottom on a fast moving river, And its a awesome setup. BUT i think the 3x blade OE prop is garbage for a twister. It either wont grab any or enuff water when set up near surface, and wont hardly push boat.. If i trim it down a bit below, it pushes like crazy, lots of thrust, but it does not have the speed. (still goes about 8 ish?mph) But i was a lill dissapointed. the 3x blade acts more like a blender, just chopping water.. hadta keep messing with trim.. (next mod is some sort of easy adjust trim) after i do 2blade prop... and lots of cavitation, vibrtation.. Also, i dont get any more speed bewtween 2/3 throttle or full throttle. I imagine this is why the 2blade props work best. its hard too dial in the 3 blade prop.. Its either, just mashin and splashing at surface, then just lower it and it grabs like a mofo.. But above 30-50% throttle, it doesnt seem too move much faster.. if down deep, like 4inch below the wake, it has lots of vibrations ,cavitations.. an feels like it slips (hitting different curents of water etc) -like a tire hitting ice spots on a roads. Especially in rivers.. I did get a 7" 2blae prop, Im goin too tap it, and install, I really hope, that it brings up the performance and smooths out everything.. I bet it will after watching so many videos of these longtails/twisters.. But yes the 3blade prop will get you moving on the water, and it would prob work great for a giant pontton boat, and in deeper water, with large heavy boats in ruff water, and since you only need about half the power, at 30% throttle, it stays steady and pushes hard.. Be great for puttin along.. savin fuel..or if you just wanta cruize and troll' fish.. But for speed, and smoothness, i can see a 2x blade swap is gotta be it.. The 3 blade mite work ok on a true LONG-long tail, were its far away from wake, of boat Tail, but its not great on a twister and small boat.
Instead of tapping threads into the prop couldn't you have just put the prop on the shaft and then put a prop nut on the end to keep it on? It seems like it would be much easier
You're probably right. I just rigged these up to work. Like I said in the video, I'm not a machinist. If I make any more, I'll probably also use a drill press by hand to make sure they're straight. These were more of a 'proof of concept' that happened to work lol. But Mud Skipper now makes an adapter and it looks well worth the money, I need to get one some day.
When you tap, use some oil and go back and forth when it gets difficult, that helps clear the chips and tap easier. Go clockwise mostly, but counterclockwise a bit when it gets hard to clean the tap.
Yea, that's how I do it now. Thanks for the tip though.
Fantastic video! Thank you.
Awesome video man. I’ve got the twisted 4 with a 20 and the guys over at mudskipper told me to check this out. Definitely think I’m gonna have to try this. Keep up the good work
Preston Harris huge benefit. I had to take my video down of it running in the water, but I'll try to make a new edit of it and get it back up. I got 23mph from the 6.5 on a 14' jon boat.
How much worse is the vibration?
May I know how it is connected to the shaft type engine?
What is the prop shaft diameter
What prop did you order? Like do you have the link to it? I order me the high speed 8.5x8” and the blade is too wide much longer than my shaft bolt so it wont even thread on. Should I get the 8x5?
What size are the washers you used in between the prop and the tail
Have you tested the different size props yet? I'm running the twister xl with the predator 420 on a 1542 monarch. I'm getting 16mph out of it stock, I have the stage one kit on the way. Also how are you feeding gas to your motor from your can, do you have a pump in line?
I started to test these new ones, but within a few minutes I had a bolt vibrate loose on my crankcase cover and started leaking oil. I'm going to take the motor apart and re-torque everything with some blue loctite. So I didn't get to finish testing yet.
I also have a pulse pump on top of the motor that draws fuel from the tank. Where I hunt is about a 6 mile or so boat ride and I got tired of having to stop and refuel on the water.
I'm having the same issue lol. My muffler vibrated loose today and I didn't have a wrench to fit it. By the time I got to the ramp and was pushing it up on the trailer I watched it sink to the bottom. I got home and my carb bolts had vibrated loose and also a fuel tank nut. I'm gonna pick up some locate and do the same when my stage 1 kit gets here.
Well I got my props yesterday got the tapped out and installed and went and tested it. I can't believe the difference, I put a ply wood floor in my boat and lost 5mph. With the 8 " prop I gained 8 mph so now I'm running 18 with a 1642 heavy boat. I'm glad you posted the original video even though it has vanished. By the way a 5/8 sae washer will fit without drilling just a tad smaller that the rubber seal. a 3/4 is the same size as the seal just harder to line up with the shaft and almost too big for the prop.
I had to remove the original video because I was informed that I couldn't be in the specific lake I was at until later in the year. I'll hopefully get a new one up soon. But yea, huge difference. Try different diameters for best performane. I can't comment on the XL kit, but on mine I had better performance with the 6.5" verses 7" so far, but I still have more tests to do.
Also, it turns out you want the prop kind of tight. My last swap I started leaking grease. I took the hub apart, and it there's a spring loaded piece that looks like it presses against the seals to keep the grease in.
Yeah I noticed that seal when I had mine apart, mine leaked bad when I ran it it tightened up more but it still seeps a little grease out. I bought a 7, 7.5,and 8” prop only one I've tried so far is the 8" with a gain of 9mph but it's not completely accurate cause my stage 1 kit and props come in same day, and I didn't test with the stage 1 kit before I changed the prop. What I've read the 8 is about what I need for my boat but I heard smaller is better. I kinda hope the 7 works best cause you can find stainless tapered props for about 100$. Where I'm at it's a shallow river with gravel bars and big rock,and a ton of logs and I just don't see an aluminum prop lasting very long.
Im thinking that the first log you hit with the aluminum prop is going to break a blade off. Are you just testing these cheap props until you buy a expensive stainless prop?
I've only hit the prop on a log once. It was the aluminum one while turning around in a tricky spot and it didn't do any damage. While actually moving though, the skeg kicks the prop up when hitting things. I was able to get the boat over a log about a foot out of the water with no issues. I actually prefer the aluminum props. When you hit a rock or log with a good amount of force, all that energy will transfer up the driveshaft and into the crank on the motor. Out of those pieces, the prop is the easiest to change and with the aluminum ones, the cheapest at about $12 or so. Although the driveshaft in these are a steel cable with a little bit of give to them, I'd rather break a cheap prop than anything else in the system.
I have a couple different mud motors all with the same basic setup. The aluminum props would not last an hour where I use them. On an average day I hit 5 to 12 stumps. I have a real stainless steel Hill Marine prop on mine. And I have never had an issue with anything.
@@marshmadness4974 maybe in the future depending on where I hunt I'll invest in one. Right now I don't really have a need for it personally. Like I said, I've hit a few branches and logs, but I've only had 1 prop strike. But this is also a good way to test different prop sizes before getting a stainless.
Have you tried running the twister xl prop on your twister frame. How much of a performance difference did u get with the twister xl prop
I never did try it. It's the same design as the original one, just larger, so I'd expect to see lower performance than the factory one, even with a hopped up motor.
@@playinlikejimi the Twister XL prop is larger than the Twister prop. Because it is larger you should push more water and actually will push your boat faster. Not slower.
@@marshmadness4974 the problem with the factory one was the wrong pitch for this motor, so it was hard enough to get the smaller one into the right RPM range.
awesome video. exactly wat i needed.. iM GONNA MAKE A VIDEO OFTHE STOCK 3X BLAD VS 2 BLADE, AND SIZE COMPARSION ON ROCKY RIVERS SOON...
ANYONE WITH A TWISTER (TWISTER CLONE) W/ 3BLADE STOCK PROP, READ THIS..
got a twister today first run, ALL STOCK, (ITS A TWISTER W/ GX200 CLONE OFF AMAZON) but its literally the exact smae as my buddys mud-skipper tiwster. only difference IS THE HANDLE DESIGN I COULD SEE..,
an i got a g200 clone motor for free lol for the $$. i guesss we'll see how the clone twister lasts.. vs, mudskipper twister...
ANYWAY, I PUT IT ON MY 30" WIDE 11FT Flat bottom on a fast moving river, And its a awesome setup. BUT i think the 3x blade OE prop is garbage for a twister. It either wont grab any or enuff water when set up near surface, and wont hardly push boat.. If i trim it down a bit below, it pushes like crazy, lots of thrust, but it does not have the speed. (still goes about 8 ish?mph) But i was a lill dissapointed.
the 3x blade acts more like a blender, just chopping water.. hadta keep messing with trim.. (next mod is some sort of easy adjust trim) after i do 2blade prop...
and lots of cavitation, vibrtation.. Also, i dont get any more speed bewtween 2/3 throttle or full throttle.
I imagine this is why the 2blade props work best. its hard too dial in the 3 blade prop.. Its either, just mashin and splashing at surface, then just lower it and it grabs like a mofo.. But above 30-50% throttle, it doesnt seem too move much faster..
if down deep, like 4inch below the wake, it has lots of vibrations ,cavitations..
an feels like it slips (hitting different curents of water etc)
-like a tire hitting ice spots on a roads. Especially in rivers..
I did get a 7" 2blae prop, Im goin too tap it, and install, I really hope, that it brings up the performance and smooths out everything.. I bet it will after watching so many videos of these longtails/twisters..
But yes the 3blade prop will get you moving on the water, and it would prob work great for a giant pontton boat, and in deeper water, with large heavy boats in ruff water, and since you only need about half the power, at 30% throttle, it stays steady and pushes hard.. Be great for puttin along.. savin fuel..or if you just wanta cruize and troll' fish..
But for speed, and smoothness, i can see a 2x blade swap is gotta be it.. The 3 blade mite work ok on a true LONG-long tail, were its far away from wake, of boat Tail, but its not great on a twister and small boat.
Thanks for the awesome comment. I’ve been looking at these and figured they were the same
Did the 2 blade fix the issue? I’m having the same problem with mine
Instead of tapping threads into the prop couldn't you have just put the prop on the shaft and then put a prop nut on the end to keep it on? It seems like it would be much easier
It wouldn't have anything to keep the prop from spinning freely on the shaft. The shaft also doesn't extend far enough to get a nut to thread on.
Lube. You always use lube when tapping.
You're probably right. I just rigged these up to work. Like I said in the video, I'm not a machinist. If I make any more, I'll probably also use a drill press by hand to make sure they're straight. These were more of a 'proof of concept' that happened to work lol. But Mud Skipper now makes an adapter and it looks well worth the money, I need to get one some day.
Holding the prop in one hand and drilling with the other, watching the bit slide made me cringe. Get a vice