This video implies that water quenching is bad, oil quenching is good-but that simply is not the case. Different compositions of steel perform best with water or brine, others are best with various types of oil. The temperature of the quench medium can make a difference as well. And, as others have pointed out, a quenched steel without tempering will be brittle, regardless of what medium it is quenched in.
Exactly. Depends on herdeneability. Šime are best quenched in water, some in oil, some even in the air. It just depends on material which metod is best for it.
What happens if you quench partially and let it air cool for the rest? I found I could get the material to crystallize differently depending on my timings.
Hard Case depends on the metal. There are metals that would be useless as a knife if you quench in oil because the edge would roll over with mild use. Tempering is needed for any Steel that isn’t made to either be soft or to break easily. This is why iron was worked by man longer than bronze but It was softer than bronze until they learned how to properly harden it without making it overly brittle.
@@stlalways6715 You need a TTT diagram (time-temperature-tranformation) for a given batch of material (yes, it's different for every batch, not just for every type of steel) and you need to choose a cooling speed between the upper critical and lower critical. Oil is slower cooling medium than water, so mr. Trollsky in this example probably didn't get a 100% Martensite structure (cooling speed less than lower critical speed) and there was less heat stress in the material so oil quenched specimen was not so brittle. A good rule of thumb is: construction steels with less than 0,8% of carbon are quenched in water, tool steels over 0,8% C are quenched in oil, high speed steels and highly alloyed tool steels are "quenched" in air.
You did a great job with the lighting, background, and filming. It was really interesting to see the forge scale flaking off and exposing the still glowing metal underneath
This video ìt's completly USELESS, he only show how to dip a piece of red hot steel... ( if it is realy steel )😅 into water or cooking oil ( i do not think it's canola... Canadian Oil Low Acid )❗
I don’t think so. The oil is more viscous than the water so as the fluids heated up the convection currents in the oil were not able to move as quickly as those in the water. This prevents the cooler liquid from transferring heat out of the steel too quickly allowing it to become less brittle after the quench. Either way it should be tempered so it wouldn’t matter as much.
Shottygolfer1 It depends at what heat the steel was before quenching. steel will become brittle after a hardening quench regardless of what you use to quench anyway, the tempering cycle comes after. As to why I said he should have tested it. I know oil cools is slower, but what’s the result in it? He doesn’t compare. Usually people use it for a more controlled quench to stop warping
For hardening in water you need lower lemparatures than for oil because water takes heat away a lot faster than oil (as you said in the video). I usualy harden in almost boiling water so it doesn t cool the steel so fast. Also tempering to reduce the inner forces in the steel making it bend and break easily.
boiling water at 100C verses 21c is still a massive shock to a steel blade cooking around 870C and not an appreciable difference. There's a reason oil hardened steels are listed as oil hardened. If you could get water up to a higher temperature then it might help but water boils into a gas as we all know at 100c assuming standard air pressure. The issue is water's rapid ability to heat up and evaporate/boil off via convection currents etc and shed heat, causing the steel to be cooled at a much more rapid rate. Oil's heat up much slower than water and has an overall lower heat capacity. Heat transfers to the oil and is lost from the entire mixture at a much slower and more controlled rate. Hence why it is superior
This video is perfect to show people why using water isn't so great. Could not have asked for a better video man! I'll definitely keep this in my back pocket if I'm ever teaching someone how to get started! Thank you!
This was actualy interesting, thank You for uploading. An expansion of this test could be how different dipping angles and moving around the object are affecting the outcome, many beginners does not know about that. I newer taught about how those different fluids are affecting the hardshells in such different ways. However, when i was on the axe factory here we used water, but it's much harder to master, for knives i also use oil if i hawe it at hand. (With water the tempering is very important to prevent what You are showing here as well as not owerheting and ruin the quenching duting the tempering process) I always do the finegrinding after the tempering (i always forge the blade a bit thicker than the final aim partly to prevent decarbonation but mainly to be able to correct warp) in order to correct fine warp, it seem to work as long as one are careful not to accidentaly build up heatstress in the steel after the tempering process. Easiest is actualy to use an dold watergrindstone since it does not risk owerheating the material as modern highspeed grinders.
Dude nice video. I like how you shown how brittle the steel gets. I've been making knives since I was 11 and I'm 30 so I know my stuff. This is a very good demonstration. Good job. I also cryogenic treat my blades as well.
Thank you for taking the time to show us in a very clear visual way the "differences" in quench media. I'm know expert but, i work with metal a lot for income plus personal interests. There are reasons for both quenches! If you're willing, in the future you should a salt water quench too! That was crazy how differently the metals reacted! Good show! Thanks.
All the hardened steel is like glass after quench it, that's the idea of make a quench, then you reduce the hardness and brittle by draw two tempers after quench, different steels, diferent quenchants, the low carbon steel can get better in water than oil, if you need a bainitic structure you quench in melted salts, what the mean of this video? Water quenching is wrong? Yeah, for some steels or too thin blades yes but is useful in many ways, sorry but the video lack of perspective and data.
I'm loving the new editing style and music. Really cool practical explanation of different quenching techniques and their down falls. Videography is advancing also, your killing it bud keep up the good work.
@@cster9261 that's true too , but it doesn't do it because of water , it does it because of hundreds of different minute details like what sort of steel it is , does the piece of steel have micro fractures , have you done normalizing cycles right , how thin /thick it is , is there a stress point and so on and so forth , if done right it's not gonna crack but you never know it just might.
@@18IMAMGODINA I guess I should probably just know what steel I’m quenching but I never really know what steel I’m using because I always use reclaimed metal but you are very right .
actually there is a technique for water quenching to harden metal. Do not heat the metal up too hot. And another, do not fully submerged it in water, instead, slowly rinse and dip it in untill it is hardened.
In my experience steel is brittle when I quench regardless of whether I use oil or water, so long as I don't have any cracks the results are fairly similar after I temper the blade.
Some steels require oil, so if you don't know what metal you have for absolute certain, use oil. Also, he did get some warping supposedly from quenching in water.
@@garethbaus5471 Do you want to spend potentially hours or days on a part, just to ruin it from quenching in water? Again, some steels actually REQUIRE oil. No option. Some will be fine enough with either. None that I know of require water quenching...
Drogi Trollsky. Bardzo bym prosil rowniez o polska wersje tytułu i przynajmniej polskie napisy jesli juz mowisz po angielsku. Odnosnie Twojej pracy.. co tu duzo mowic. Swietna robota, bije poklony!
really cool videography! but, I have a question about the water quenching....could you have reduced the brittleness after quenching by tempering it? great video!
The water appeared to give a secondary "explosive" heat release. This might be why the steel is more brittle with a water quince. As far as I know, you are the first to show this reaction. 👍
if you drop the metal temperature below its critical value quick enough, during quenching, austenit (microstructure of iron) will directly transform into martensite structure with is very brittle. Its linked with shearing iron atoms without diffusion. Oil absorb heat slower so probably there is more residual austenite or even different structure like bainite with is more ductile.
@@Olasty111 Isn't there, also, a different reaction from the oil due to it being carbon based? Water is hydrogen and oxygen so there would be no carbonation to the steel.
I am from India and here traditional blacksmiths are nomads and they are expert blacksmiths for generations, and all quench their steel in water with excellent results , I too have made chisels and other tools successfully, no one here even knows of oil quenches, YOUR VIDEO is incomplete till you study about water quench
Thats pritty cool to see the action inside the quenching tank..thanks for taking the time to do..well interesting for me a novice blade maker..thankyou
I'd imagine the water quenched knife would be fine after tempering as long as it didn't crack. But the warp and the cracking risk is the rub. I've never found the need to use water (I use soy oil for thin water hardening steel items - it's cheap and it flows well, even if not preheated) in chasing hardness, but I have quenched in oil and broken a knife just the same way you showed with water (prior to tempering). I make only as a hobby, so I've not had to solve any warpage issues - i leave enough to grind them off post treatment, but it's a little limiting. Files and razors have always been straightened after a quench - both are water hardening steel most of the time, but I never paid attention to find out if they're tempered quickly and then straightened (I think that's the case). I attempted to tap a pocket knife blade that warped slightly years ago - a single light tap and it broke like glass (it was oil quenched, but made from 1095 - and not tempered).
Well in the first one its expected for it to break like that. Cuz if I got it right u kept "over cooking" it and cooling it down. But I think oil also helps with hardening? Or is it just coating it?
Awesome video on this topic. I thank you so very much for the time and effort to setup that tank. The lighting was perfect and was kind of satisfying to watch. As always I am impressed with your work and thankful to have found this channel.
What steel were you using? That would make a difference. 1095 is fast quenching and if the blade doesn't crack or warp bad I would think a water quench would work fine.
Don't put the fishes in the oil !! Haha! Very informative to be able to view that and also a good visual show! Even my girlfriend watched it twice! Thank you so much Trollskyy for taking the time to do this video!! Cheers!
You are awesome! and I guess you had better try this method. Over 1000 laminated high carbon steel for outer material. Over 1000 laminated low carbon steel for inner material.
My mentor told me that quenching doesn't need more than once. All we have to do after heating, is let it aired till the steel get to the normal temperature, repeat it for 2 or 3 times. Then after last heating, we can quench it to the water. That' general technic that my mentor told me
this is why temper is needed.... water quench has its advantage of higher hardness. oil quench has its advantage of higher toughness. as long as they were tempered properly. they both good...!
Interesting to watch. Nice camera work. I always enjoy the short video showing a katana blade deflect one way, then the other, during a water quench. It's amazing they don't just snap in half every time. I found it under the title "Templado de una katana - Detalle de la deformacion" on a channel called "supervideo". I don't know how to link to it, but it's only 11 seconds long with no music, narration, or text.
As i understand it, water above 120 degrees F is a less drastic quench than cold water. I used to user transmission oil heated to about 120 for oil hardening steel like O1 and 52100. transformer oil or horse-drenching oil, both light mineral oils, are good quench mediums. You can use them at 100 F. You can also flash quench, ie pull the blade out of the water as soon as it's black.
That gut was the best part of the show but it frustrates me that that made Blade Smith's make guns and make the people work with coins and other with real plates.tgen they say it has to be a certain length for fairness.
we all know quenching in oil doesn't give as much hardness as water, but for the professional knife maker you can get 95% of the hardness for a significantly reduced risk of cracking, which is worth because their job depends on reliability in making good knives.
Can see why you would get weird stresses on the water quench. The little pockets of "air" stuck to the blade look like they took noticeably longer to cool down on several of the water quenched blades.
So why didn't you snap the oil quenched knife in the vice when it was brittle like the water quenched knife ? maybe temper both knives and then test them both for a fair test.
Water quench adds Hydrogen, and thus embrittles the steel, as it also cooks out Carbon. Oil quench adds Carbon, and cooks out Hydrogen. Someone mentioned using Blood, which might work in an Oil mix
This video implies that water quenching is bad, oil quenching is good-but that simply is not the case. Different compositions of steel perform best with water or brine, others are best with various types of oil. The temperature of the quench medium can make a difference as well.
And, as others have pointed out, a quenched steel without tempering will be brittle, regardless of what medium it is quenched in.
S2 steel screwdriver with brine can make rust? Which one better to hardness sir?
@@asepd7159 ?!
Exactly. Depends on herdeneability. Šime are best quenched in water, some in oil, some even in the air. It just depends on material which metod is best for it.
فولاد رو دوبار کوئنچ کنید شکننده میشود
What happens if you quench partially and let it air cool for the rest? I found I could get the material to crystallize differently depending on my timings.
If you don't temper after quenching, oil quench will also break easily..
I agree...!
Yes all in all if warping or breaking isnt concerned then water quench is better.
@Richard Falch It's true but not critical.
Hard Case depends on the metal. There are metals that would be useless as a knife if you quench in oil because the edge would roll over with mild use.
Tempering is needed for any
Steel that isn’t made to either be soft or to break easily. This is why iron was worked by man longer than bronze but It was softer than bronze until they learned how to properly harden it without making it overly brittle.
@@stlalways6715 You need a TTT diagram (time-temperature-tranformation) for a given batch of material (yes, it's different for every batch, not just for every type of steel) and you need to choose a cooling speed between the upper critical and lower critical. Oil is slower cooling medium than water, so mr. Trollsky in this example probably didn't get a 100% Martensite structure (cooling speed less than lower critical speed) and there was less heat stress in the material so oil quenched specimen was not so brittle. A good rule of thumb is: construction steels with less than 0,8% of carbon are quenched in water, tool steels over 0,8% C are quenched in oil, high speed steels and highly alloyed tool steels are "quenched" in air.
You did a great job with the lighting, background, and filming. It was really interesting to see the forge scale flaking off and exposing the still glowing metal underneath
Yes
2Q
You didn’t test the blade after quench in oil.
This video ìt's completly USELESS, he only show how to dip a piece of red hot steel... ( if it is realy steel )😅 into water or cooking oil ( i do not think it's canola... Canadian Oil Low Acid )❗
@@gottmituns3225 What is the point of your comment?
The most violent quenching liquid is brine. If you agitate the steel, it dissipates the steam and the scale, so it cools even quicker
The fastest that I know of is water mixed with amonia.
Any Sunday with a video from one of my favorite craftsmen, is a good Sunday.
Absolutely stunned by the brittleness of that knife. Didn't realise when you quench the knife in water it makes that music!!! Blown away
Why didn’t you test the oil quenched knife the same as the water quenched. I’m sure it would have still snapped, just not quite as easily.
Zoom in on the skull quench and make that your badge!
5th Horseman it’s pretty cool :)
I don’t think so. The oil is more viscous than the water so as the fluids heated up the convection currents in the oil were not able to move as quickly as those in the water. This prevents the cooler liquid from transferring heat out of the steel too quickly allowing it to become less brittle after the quench. Either way it should be tempered so it wouldn’t matter as much.
Shottygolfer1 It depends at what heat the steel was before quenching. steel will become brittle after a hardening quench regardless of what you use to quench anyway, the tempering cycle comes after. As to why I said he should have tested it. I know oil cools is slower, but what’s the result in it? He doesn’t compare. Usually people use it for a more controlled quench to stop warping
very good point made
For hardening in water you need lower lemparatures than for oil because water takes heat away a lot faster than oil (as you said in the video). I usualy harden in almost boiling water so it doesn t cool the steel so fast.
Also tempering to reduce the inner forces in the steel making it bend and break easily.
boiling water at 100C verses 21c is still a massive shock to a steel blade cooking around 870C and not an appreciable difference. There's a reason oil hardened steels are listed as oil hardened. If you could get water up to a higher temperature then it might help but water boils into a gas as we all know at 100c assuming standard air pressure. The issue is water's rapid ability to heat up and evaporate/boil off via convection currents etc and shed heat, causing the steel to be cooled at a much more rapid rate. Oil's heat up much slower than water and has an overall lower heat capacity. Heat transfers to the oil and is lost from the entire mixture at a much slower and more controlled rate. Hence why it is superior
@@Neonator08 different steels need different quenchants. saying one is better than the other is idiocy.
This is why you’re my fav knife making channel on UA-cam. 🙏🙏🙏
This video is perfect to show people why using water isn't so great. Could not have asked for a better video man! I'll definitely keep this in my back pocket if I'm ever teaching someone how to get started! Thank you!
This was actualy interesting, thank You for uploading.
An expansion of this test could be how different dipping angles and moving around the object are affecting the outcome, many beginners does not know about that.
I newer taught about how those different fluids are affecting the hardshells in such different ways.
However, when i was on the axe factory here we used water, but it's much harder to master, for knives i also use oil if i hawe it at hand.
(With water the tempering is very important to prevent what You are showing here as well as not owerheting and ruin the quenching duting the tempering process)
I always do the finegrinding after the tempering (i always forge the blade a bit thicker than the final aim partly to prevent decarbonation but mainly to be able to correct warp) in order to correct fine warp, it seem to work as long as one are careful not to accidentaly build up heatstress in the steel after the tempering process.
Easiest is actualy to use an dold watergrindstone since it does not risk owerheating the material as modern highspeed grinders.
this was a cool experiment! Cool results nice video idea!
Very nice. ...what steel was used?...why not temper each one and have the hardness tested...
Dude nice video. I like how you shown how brittle the steel gets. I've been making knives since I was 11 and I'm 30 so I know my stuff. This is a very good demonstration. Good job. I also cryogenic treat my blades as well.
Thank you for taking the time to show us in a very clear visual way the "differences" in quench media. I'm know expert but, i work with metal a lot for income plus personal interests. There are reasons for both quenches! If you're willing, in the future you should a salt water quench too! That was crazy how differently the metals reacted! Good show!
Thanks.
All the hardened steel is like glass after quench it, that's the idea of make a quench, then you reduce the hardness and brittle by draw two tempers after quench, different steels, diferent quenchants, the low carbon steel can get better in water than oil, if you need a bainitic structure you quench in melted salts, what the mean of this video? Water quenching is wrong? Yeah, for some steels or too thin blades yes but is useful in many ways, sorry but the video lack of perspective and data.
You my man are a saviour.
Appreciate the information 👍👍😁
Very well done with the procedure and the setup and everything and the music I might add
Very good quality video and audio. Well done !
I’m glad you are back thank you.
Samurai swords are quenched in water
I'm loving the new editing style and music. Really cool practical explanation of different quenching techniques and their down falls. Videography is advancing also, your killing it bud keep up the good work.
Ummm yeah, that's why it's tempered after it's quenched.
That is true but sometimes it cracks when you quench it in water
@@cster9261 that's true too , but it doesn't do it because of water , it does it because of hundreds of different minute details like what sort of steel it is , does the piece of steel have micro fractures , have you done normalizing cycles right , how thin /thick it is , is there a stress point and so on and so forth , if done right it's not gonna crack but you never know it just might.
@@18IMAMGODINA I guess I should probably just know what steel I’m quenching but I never really know what steel I’m using because I always use reclaimed metal but you are very right .
actually there is a technique for water quenching to harden metal. Do not heat the metal up too hot. And another, do not fully submerged it in water, instead, slowly rinse and dip it in untill it is hardened.
Piękne. Człowiek się uczy całe życie. Dzięki :)
Good to see u making videos again
Nice scientific approach. The video was actually very informative.
In my experience steel is brittle when I quench regardless of whether I use oil or water, so long as I don't have any cracks the results are fairly similar after I temper the blade.
Some steels require oil, so if you don't know what metal you have for absolute certain, use oil.
Also, he did get some warping supposedly from quenching in water.
@@cavscout888 the oil quenching steels are just more prone to cracking, it is still sometimes possible to get a good result with water.
@@garethbaus5471 Do you want to spend potentially hours or days on a part, just to ruin it from quenching in water? Again, some steels actually REQUIRE oil. No option. Some will be fine enough with either. None that I know of require water quenching...
Excellent !!! Youre one of my favorite knife makers....
thanks mate !
It was very good information and thank you so much for sharing
I to są filmy warte obejrzenia, bez zbędnych cyrków, a konkretne ciekawostki.
Oh! Useful technology with simple home features. it's interesting for learn, thanks.
Drogi Trollsky. Bardzo bym prosil rowniez o polska wersje tytułu i przynajmniej polskie napisy jesli juz mowisz po angielsku. Odnosnie Twojej pracy.. co tu duzo mowic. Swietna robota, bije poklony!
really cool videography! but, I have a question about the water quenching....could you have reduced the brittleness after quenching by tempering it? great video!
The water appeared to give a secondary "explosive" heat release. This might be why the steel is more brittle with a water quince. As far as I know, you are the first to show this reaction. 👍
if you drop the metal temperature below its critical value quick enough, during quenching, austenit (microstructure of iron) will directly transform into martensite structure with is very brittle. Its linked with shearing iron atoms without diffusion. Oil absorb heat slower so probably there is more residual austenite or even different structure like bainite with is more ductile.
@@Olasty111
Isn't there, also, a different reaction from the oil due to it being carbon based? Water is hydrogen and oxygen so there would be no carbonation to the steel.
Ron, I also noticed that 2nd wave of bubbles.
Why is that going on?
Trollsky jestes najlepszy !
For water they just quench the edge.Katana was cover the back by mud.
first time somone showed the difference thanks dude
I am from India and here traditional blacksmiths are nomads and they are expert blacksmiths for generations, and all quench their steel in water with excellent results , I too have made chisels and other tools successfully, no one here even knows of oil quenches,
YOUR VIDEO is incomplete till you study about water quench
Thats pritty cool to see the action inside the quenching tank..thanks for taking the time to do..well interesting for me a novice blade maker..thankyou
Great video. Interesting result. Thumbs UP.
Dlaczego olej roslinny a nie samochodowy?
Co zrobiłeś z tym olejem? Passacik w TDI by na nim pojeździł jeszcze!
Frytki zrobił.
Zostawił do hartowania
@@Abyssaal1 no i smaku narobiłeś... Muszę teraz kartofle skrobać..
Very neat sir! Thank you!
I'd imagine the water quenched knife would be fine after tempering as long as it didn't crack. But the warp and the cracking risk is the rub.
I've never found the need to use water (I use soy oil for thin water hardening steel items - it's cheap and it flows well, even if not preheated) in chasing hardness, but I have quenched in oil and broken a knife just the same way you showed with water (prior to tempering).
I make only as a hobby, so I've not had to solve any warpage issues - i leave enough to grind them off post treatment, but it's a little limiting. Files and razors have always been straightened after a quench - both are water hardening steel most of the time, but I never paid attention to find out if they're tempered quickly and then straightened (I think that's the case). I attempted to tap a pocket knife blade that warped slightly years ago - a single light tap and it broke like glass (it was oil quenched, but made from 1095 - and not tempered).
I have always wanted to see this comparison! Thanks for posting this!!
Great experiment, good job
Really was surprised how brittle became the steel quenched in water. Really nice little test. The thanks for the effort.
I enjoyed that. Loved the skull rings👍🏻
"shiny and chrome ! "
Trolsky!!! Your the best!!
Thank you, Trollskyy. Very coolski!
Super pokazane różnice. Powodzenia w dalszych pracach i filmikach 💪💪 Pozdro ✌
Great video. People need to see this.
Your videos inspire me a lot! You're a really good knife maker!
Hello! That was interesting video for me! Thank you!
I was surprised at how brittle the steel became. Very interesting video.
Glad to see you again.
Well we knew this. BUT, seeing it is very interesting! You went to a lot of trouble and expense to do this for us. Thank You!
thanks man i learned something new for life
Well in the first one its expected for it to break like that. Cuz if I got it right u kept "over cooking" it and cooling it down. But I think oil also helps with hardening? Or is it just coating it?
Awesome video on this topic. I thank you so very much for the time and effort to setup that tank. The lighting was perfect and was kind of satisfying to watch. As always I am impressed with your work and thankful to have found this channel.
No to moja ciekawość została zaspokojona :) dzięki za film.
I knew that quenching in water is too fast, but I didn't expect that steel would become so brittle, very impressing!
only depend of the steel, some cant be quench in water, other need to be.
@@croisetguillaume2223 Yes indeed. Some others are quenched in air. I was talking about regular high carbon steel.
White Boar some high carbon steel CAN be done in water or air. It’s all about the alloy that will tell you what medium a quench must be in.
Pure genius mate...really interesting. Thank you for the video.
What steel were you using? That would make a difference. 1095 is fast quenching and if the blade doesn't crack or warp bad I would think a water quench would work fine.
Don't put the fishes in the oil !! Haha! Very informative to be able to view that and also a good visual show! Even my girlfriend watched it twice! Thank you so much Trollskyy for taking the time to do this video!! Cheers!
If you put fishes heat the oil to 350 F then tasty fishes
Very awesome video, learned this the hard way with my first knifes. Days of work completely ruined! Hope someone learns the easy way from this video.
You are awesome!
and I guess you had better try this method.
Over 1000 laminated high carbon steel for outer material.
Over 1000 laminated low carbon steel for inner material.
This was such an awesome idea!!! I loved getting to see the process up close!
My mentor told me that quenching doesn't need more than once. All we have to do after heating, is let it aired till the steel get to the normal temperature, repeat it for 2 or 3 times. Then after last heating, we can quench it to the water. That' general technic that my mentor told me
kolejna lekcja od czarodzieja a nie fałszywego proroka co dorabia rączki do mory.
czekamy na kolejne experymenty
Good totorial, and yes water is not recommended for quench 👍
Did you test the brittleness of the oil quench like you did the water quench? How brittle is the oil quenched blade?
Really great lesson try heating your oil before you quench your blank
Вы очень хороший друг. спасибо что поделились с нами.
this is why temper is needed.... water quench has its advantage of higher hardness. oil quench has its advantage of higher toughness. as long as they were tempered properly. they both good...!
Very interesting. Thank you for sharing
Interesting to watch. Nice camera work. I always enjoy the short video showing a katana blade deflect one way, then the other, during a water quench. It's amazing they don't just snap in half every time. I found it under the title "Templado de una katana - Detalle de la deformacion" on a channel called "supervideo". I don't know how to link to it, but it's only 11 seconds long with no music, narration, or text.
As i understand it, water above 120 degrees F is a less drastic quench than cold water. I used to user transmission oil heated to about 120 for oil hardening steel like O1 and 52100. transformer oil or horse-drenching oil, both light mineral oils, are good quench mediums. You can use them at 100 F. You can also flash quench, ie pull the blade out of the water as soon as it's black.
Amazing video! Thank you for doing this
As Daug would say, “it will not keel”
Yes
That gut was the best part of the show but it frustrates me that that made Blade Smith's make guns and make the people work with coins and other with real plates.tgen they say it has to be a certain length for fairness.
Always liked the style of your videos, glad you are making more!
we all know quenching in oil doesn't give as much hardness as water, but for the professional knife maker you can get 95% of the hardness for a significantly reduced risk of cracking, which is worth because their job depends on reliability in making good knives.
Interesting video and very well executed. I appreciate the effort you put in the filming setup - lights, white background, slow motion.
That was badass! Way cool. 🔥💯😍
Didn't expect all that scale to fall off. wow. Have you tried "Superquench"? Homemade brew of water, salt and soap?
Good shit mate keep it coming we are in awe🤟🏼
Amazing how violent water quenching is.
Which one is good brother
Thank you for using both metric and American units I appreciate it
Baby oil for knives, water for chisels. Chisels are very easy to differentially harden. I also think that quenching knives in coconut oil is fun.
Can see why you would get weird stresses on the water quench. The little pockets of "air" stuck to the blade look like they took noticeably longer to cool down on several of the water quenched blades.
So why didn't you snap the oil quenched knife in the vice when it was brittle like the water quenched knife ? maybe temper both knives and then test them both for a fair test.
Wow!
Very good idea!
Very interesting comparison; can you still cook with the oil?
Water quench adds Hydrogen, and thus embrittles the steel, as it also cooks out Carbon. Oil quench adds Carbon, and cooks out Hydrogen. Someone mentioned using Blood, which might work in an Oil mix
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How could anyone dislike a video like this??? This is a great video of why doing a quench in water is NOT a good idea. Nice vid bro!
very very very interesting video! Again, bravo!
So, which is the better one?