Troubleshooting Saga on the 1978 Honda Hobbit that won't run!
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
- This has been a real headache of a bike - but I am happy to say it now actually runs great now!
The moped really had my beat, most of the common troubleshooting (Cleaning the stock carb, cleaning points, installing new gaskets, etc) ended up not being what was holding this bike back. Given the lack of carbon on the piston, I am willing to bet this is what was the problem for this bike all along.
I've removed the decomp cable from the bike, since it comes in contact with the piston when you move it and would probably damage it again. Maybe that is what happened all those years ago.
I just bought 3, 1978 Hobbits that need fixing, so I enjoyed your video.
Nice. I love old mopeds. Pretty much all old machines. Troubleshooting is the fun part! And most rewarding.
Me too, and I agree - super rewarding!
yo travis. really enjoyed this video. I learned a lot and also its really refreshing seeing a video about this side of mopeds. its not all shiny kits and plug and play. really enjoyed it man. cheers.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Brilliant video, loves these 5 'minute easy' jobs😎
Thanks Travis! I needed this... I fully rebuilt two Honda hobbits and they BOTH decided to stop running around the same time last fall. It crushed my spirit and I’ve been waiting to approach them again. This video convinced me to go out and get an air compression gage and see if I can get them running once again!
Get it!!
If they were running and then stopped, 9/10 times it is the teeny tiny passages in the carb that get clogged up. Hope you are back on the road soon. Most of our projects are 2-3 hours away from being usable, it just takes some activation energy!
Nice one. I was guessing vapor lock for a bit. until you mentioned that you primed the cylinder. Mopeds, mo problems!
Truer words never spoken!!
Nice video, but my jaw dropped to the floor when you decided to actually test the compression. That's one of my first steps on a non runner. But then the crank seal would've burned me
Just came across this video. Very similar to what I’m experiencing with a newly acquired 77 Badavus Starflite. Helpful video!
Awesome, thank you!
Look into doing a leak down test. It would have shown the leak, as well as the crank seal possibility. The best tester is a squeeze bulb for 8 psi of pressure and a good pressure gauge. 2 strokes do it differently then 4 strokes
That's another reason why the Spree is king of bikes - no decomp! 😉 Great video as always dude, reminds me of the time I couldn't work out why a Tomos A3 wouldn't run. After I checked everything else and cleaned the carb I took the top end apart and found.... No piston rings. Previous owner had rebuilt the motor without them!
The craziest thing is that I've known that to happen to someone else! Will once bought a hobbit that had no piston rings inside of it - how cheap do you have to be to pry out some good used piston rings lol
Also yes long live the Spree!
@@TravisTutorial I did not know that a long hose would change the compression reading (i also own a HF compression tester) So what i did i went to autozone and borrowed theirs and theirs improved the compression but not a lot i even swapped gages from mine to theirs and i worked better but my compression was still low.
The way i checked the decomp valve dor leakeage was to pour water on the seating area of the valve and see if it would lek to the other side and had no leakeage. So i see how frustrating it can be specially after installing a new cylinder and rings.
Thank you for the video it was an eye opener now i am thinking of replacing that decomp valve.
Cheers
@@TravisTutorial haha who are these weirdos who think 'yeah that'll be fine with no rings' and then take the time putting new head and base gaskets on and torqueing the cylinder studs to spec?!? Will is a legend by the way, I hope he's well and still messing with hobbits 👍
@@SDsailor7 Right on! That's neat to hear about the difference between the Harbor Freight and Autozone tester. I bet a dedicated small engine one would show even better.
@@TravisTutorial Yup i bet it would.
I trusted more the autozone tester that the HF one.
I have had pitting on the decomp valve and wear on the seat. It is great practice to lap the decomp valve to get a nice tight seal.
Nice tip - I ended up having to lap the flywheel cam to the crankshaft on this bike after taking it off /on so many times with an impact driver during this process. This decomp is jammed tight in the head I'd have to get crafty to get it to move, if I ever decide to fix it I'll look into lapping it
Nice to see a new video! Bike sound great!! Way to go!
HI WILLLLL
The finger in the plug hole check is a quick n dirty option for compression check.
Great catch that, I've been working on vehicles for over 45 years and assumption still kicks me in the gentlemans area every year😎
I dig it! Yeah wasn't expecting it to be the head itself, funny how it's the simplest thing sometimes
@@TravisTutorial yup, been there 😂
Unless you have a Solex (I do) the decomp, if you are unlucky enough to have one, should be plugged. On those cheap compression gauges with a long hose, first make sure that the end of the hose that goes into the spark plug hole has what looks like a Schrader valve on it. That makes all the difference. It's a slightly different kind of Shrader valve than you find in a tire valve, but it works the same. You may still not get a completely accurate reading, but you should get a consistent reading. See what you get on an engine with known good compression, and use that number with that gauge. Using your finger or thumb for checking compression can fool you. I noticed you pedaling it on the stand. I weigh 240 pounds, and if I did that I would bend the stand and possibly the frame. I don't think it is a good thing for anyone to do, but definitely not if you are on the heavy side. I either kick it over, or take it outside and pedal it on the wheels.
Awesome video Travis. I had some mystery issues with my 1980 hobbit and it was the original crank seals. I'm at a similar stage with my wires all a mess, would love to see any wiring cleanup if you film it.
Nice, super common for crank seals to be dried out, but thankfully easy enough to do on a Hobbit - I did do a little bit of wiring cleanup in my other video "Hardwiring a 1978 Honda Hobbit with Points Ignition Step by Step"
Decompress is broken , first thing i heard from the bang :)
Good ear! This bike was a nice reliable ripper after swapping heads
That's what was wrong with mine plus the float in upside down
The reason the exhaust was cut and welded was because a mouse got inside the exhaust and ate the baffle so he cut it open and re baffled it
Complete rubbish, everyone knows it's rats😊
I cant get mine started. Do i need to key to be on to actually run, or is the key just for the lights/horn. Thanks
This might be what mine's doing exactly bone stock I had it running at 1 point and it just died and now I got fuel I got spark I got air won't go , I do have a wet plug so it leads me to think low compression but possibly low compression due to the decompression
It seems leaky decomps (or a bad decomp like in my case!) are really common Hobbit problems. It's definitely worth it to buy or borrow a compression tester to know for sure.
Hobbits are a pretty simple beast (once you defeat the hard-er to access carb and get that clean which it sounds like you have). It could be leaky crank seals if all original but you can actually get to those without splitting the case which is neat. Happy wrenching
Yeah those compression releases can , hit the piston
In some cases
I had a Honda 70 do that to me one time and it had the wrong coil even though it would fire something about AC and DC coils Honda had,, I don't think that's your case though the Honda 70 the CL just won't use any Honda 70 coil I was flabbergasted
well done, rad video
Thanks!
Float in mine was upside down
Hello I just picked up a 1978 cimatti twin sport and I could use some help on getting it to start and run
How do I contact this guy for help?
Hi Travis, I have a 1978 Honda Hobbit Pa50II. It has 2371 miles on it had it as a kid. I recently got it up and running and was running like a dream, all of sudden riding one day and died on me. The issue is i have no spark, when it turns over the horn and light work just fine. What could my issue be? Do i start with replacing points. Just looking for any advice. Thanks in advance
Almost certainly a point issue
Reed valve on that one could xxx yes seals timeing
Xxx
How can I contact Travis for help? Thank you
Hi there - I'm not on UA-cam much. You can drop a comment here, but you'll probably get more engagement at MopedArmy.com or the Lovers of Honda Mopeds Facebook group.
if anyone knows my honda hobbit wont crank at all and is leaking gas out from the side of the variator
That'd be a leaky carb, there is an overflow for the bowl that the gas will pour out of
Compression release
Travis, I'm going to pick up a 1978 hobbit Monday that has been sitting at a dealership for 20 years. He was asking $200 i got him down to $150. Should I go through with buying this?
That's $50 cheaper than I bought this one for! I would!
@@TravisTutorial thanks man love the videos there definitely going to help me with the project!
@@jarictrout9909 Solid! Glad they are helpful, hobbit is an awesome platform to play with
@@TravisTutorial I picked it up, It was honestly sorda stuck in time! I'm missing a few things but im ordering them soon!
Great story Travis! I'm glad you figured it out.
Speaking of Hobbits, I'd love to hear how your Bakers Dozen run Hobbit build did. The video series about that build is super great; how did it end?
Thank you!
I agree it is a story that needs to be told! I've started and stopped editing a Bakers Dozen Part I & II video several times in past few years. Maybe it is time to get it done
@@TravisTutorial I would certainly LOVE to see it! I may be selfish, but this seems like a very appropriate time given that we can see the light at the end of the pandemic tunnel, and bakers 2021 is on... :)
I have a 78 peugeot LVS-U3 and i am having the same problem.
I replaced the cylinder, piston and rings and one of the crank seals i also cleaned the gurtner carburator, the moped started and ran acouple of times the i let it sit for about 3 days and it would not start, i have spark a good plug and i relocated the condenser to outside of the place where it originally goes and no luck starting again.
I only have about 65 or 70psi on compression could that be my problem?
Anyone know?
Thank you
If it is 65 or 70 psi on a hose style tester I would think you are okay. Hard to do troubleshooting over youtube comments but Lovers of Peugeot mopeds on facebook or MopedArmy will be able to take things further.
@@TravisTutorial Thank you Travis. Will do.