Hi, glad that helped you. Re: the stitch width. First, use a hair blow dryer, from inside the machine, to get the metal components in the area of the dial, hot. You are not pointing the blow dryer at the white plastic knob on the outside of the machine! You are pointing the blow dryer at the metal levers inside the machine, so take the lid off the machine. Once you have the components hot, spary with PB Blaster and start working the control knob. It should free up.
Wow - I am in awe at your skill. Thank you so much. I have a Pfaff from 1955 and am gaining courage to oil her properly and fix the presser foot when it is floppy, but haven't ever tried to do what you can do. I love these old machines.
Thanks for the video. I was able to free up my 362 with a heat gun (with narrow tip) 800degF and pointed at the aluminum arm. I used Kroil to lube the entire assembly.
Thanks a lot from denmark... The pin was fully glued to the shaft, so there was no movement at all, when i wanted a zig-zag... Now it is clean (all over) and it sews like a new machine. My Pfaff 260 (without the embrodery) is from '53...
Your suggestion using a hair dryer and solvent worked perfectly to get the zigzag on my Pfaff 360 to work. I couldn't turn the screws that hold the cam mechanism in place, so I sprayed the areas you described using the long, thin tube on the can and heated those connections with the hair dryer. Then I kept the heat on and began putting the zigzag to work until it ran correctly, 0 to 4, forward and reverse. I am so grateful to you. Until someone can do a better job, at least I can keep the machine running properly. Thanks, again.
You're very welcome! I still have this machine, and am currently doing a couple sewing projects on damaged ski gear with it. Thanks for watching, and for the nice comment!
Hi Austinado16, Many thanks for your time and video-work! I have 3 Pfaffs to repair with the same 'problems' - 260, 2x 360 and we have also two perfectly working Pfaffs; the 332 and 362. All automatics except the 332. We just love the Pfaffs. Your video will sure help me out. Even though I do have the repair technical manual. So, many thanks! If I encounter problems with the repair, I sure will post them here..
After freeing up the zig zag function as is so clearly detailed in the video, I found that on one of the machines, the zig zag function worked but the machine seemed to bog down when I switched from straight stitching to zig zag ( 0 to 4). I traced the problem to the needle bar assembly. After removing the needle bar cover, I found that the adjustment screw pivot, the slide block and the interface between the needle bar and the crank which drives the needle bar were all bound up with shellac. I completely removed the adjustment cam screw, and slid the needle bar on its slide out and away from the crank arm. Using lacquer thinner I then cleaned up the slide, the pivot shaft and the adjustment screw cam pivot. The shaft that is driven by the crank also has to pivot. The pivot on the square block on the needle bar was also frozen. After freeing up these pivot joints, and reassembling and re-lubing, the bog down problem was gone and the machine spun freely in all modes.
Thank you so much for this video. I could not figure out how to center needle until I came across this video. Centering needle is at 3:00 for anybody looking for help with needle position. 👍
austinado16 I have a 360 and have been dealing with a timing issue when I use the ZZ. Needle hits hook but can not figure out a easy way to adjust timming. In straight stitch is perfect chain stitch. Any help would be appreciated.
Concerning the "Pfaff Automatic 362-261 Gebrauchsanleitung". Page 8 & 9 of that manual is about the "Zierstich-Automatic": => To prevent the Automatic function from freezing. From time to time use E=3 (top white wheel), D=4 (Top coverd black wheel), C=5 (Upper front wheel) for several minutes. With lifted presserfoot & no sewing cotton. The E wheel is for the pattern length. At 0 the Automatic drive is off. Then only zig-zag.
Thanks Teresa! I still own and use this machine, but I'm not sure how "reassembly" info or photos would help you because of how complex the machines are inside. There'd just be no way of showing all the detail and settings.
Thank you for this. I had a 362 that sewed straight and stitch length dial would only turn to 1. The zig zag lever was stuck in the down position. Following along this video, figured out both pins were totally glued inside. Before I came along this video though I couldn't even begin to figure out what was happening inside. It's no vintage Singer.. :D
thanks,,, it worked,,, you saved me $125.00 ,, 2x,, [ I have 2 of these lil girls ] & I downloaded the service manual for free, to compare what your saying & what the manual says , you showed me what to do & the manual put names to the parts & what they do,, NOW ON WITH ADDING ON THE TOP CAM ASSEMBLY,,, KEEPING MY FINGERS CROSSED,,, THANKS !!!! ,,,
My Pfaff reverse control knob is frozen. Very complicated. No wonder the sewing repair shop guy said he couldn’t repair the machine due to unavailable parts. 🤣. Fortunately my old Singer will be repaired without issue.
This video was very helpful in restoring a Pfaff 260. I was hoping that you could do a video on how to remove and clean the upper tension assembly and the stitch length regulator. Mark.
Excellent video and explanation. Internet must be listening, my son asked me yesterday what kind of lubrication they came with ? Ha ! I was speculating on using some Zoom turbine oil, wondering how that would work on our 260.
Hey Brian, I recognized your voice from your other sewing machine videos, before I found where it said your name, I didn't realize austinado16 was you! LOL! Anyway, I have really enjoyed your videos over the years, & sharing sewing machine repair & maintenance information. I purchased a 360 off eBay a few years back, that sewed the straight stitch perfectly, but I didn't try the zigzag until more than a year after buying it, only to discover that some dork had taken it apart, & put it back together, backwards, so the zigzag mechanism is trapped, so it can't zigzag, so I was trying to refamiliarize myself with these wonderful old Pfaff's innards, & really appreciate your video! Thank you!
Great video. Was able to free up one 362 and two 360's. Would like to understand the adjustments better. From what I understand the screw in the rear middle with lock screw adjusts the width of the zig zag. The screw in front which you access with your screwdriver turned sideways eliminates zigzag when you are dialed at zero. The screw on the mechanism arm with locknut centers the zig zag with regard to the straight stitch. The front adjustment moves the entire zig zag range in relation to the slot in the bottom plate. Am I correct? When accessing these adjustment screws, you will find that they are also frozen. I had to use PB blaster and a heat gun with a small diameter tip to concentrate the heat. It is also important to use screwdrivers that have the exact tip width and tip length especially on the front lock screw. I had to custom file and fit the tip to fill the screw slot because the screw was so hard to turn even with heat.
I have a Pfaff 362 machine and was wondering if the video applied in my case. The machine will straight stitch and zig zag. The cam system will turn but doesn't seem to be working at all. The left right center needle lever doesn't work ether. But you can turn the lever left right and center. Reverse works too but I notice that as I turn the stitch length dial the reverse lever doesn't move as much. Moving it all the way to the end the lever doesn't move hardly at all.
You'll just have to take it all apart and clean out all the varnish that is gluing the pivoting components together. Once everything is freed up, it will work perfectly again.
Hello, I have a Pfaff 332 and my Zig Zag Button blockedg in the middle of the work. It does not any more. The rest of the mechanics is easy going. I already pulled off the white botton and tried to move the screwed rod but nothing happens. I bought the machine some time ago. The seller told me it was refreshed and showed me also a bill. I wanted to learn sewing on this machine but this week my mother was the first to use it. First the button could be moved, not easely and suddenly it blocked.
Hello! I'm sorry to hear that the machine is giving you a problem, but it's not uncommon for these old machines if they haven't been heated, freed up inside, and lubricated. If you follow the video, you'll be able to take the top off the machine, and use a hair blow dryer to get the inside of the machine really hot. This will melt that varnish that is gluing the machine and keeping all the internal parts from moving smoothly. While it's really hot, use synthetic sewing machine oil on all the pivoting and moving parts. Good luck! Thanks for watching, and for your comment!
Thank you so much for posting this. I inherited a Pfaff 362 that had the same issue, and followed your instructions to free up the zig-zag mechanism. Could you also post something about how to remove and clean the stitch width dial? Mine is very difficult to move, and it feels like it has the same issue with varnish buildup.
Awesome video Todd! I purchased a Pfaff 260 that only does straight stich and zig zag. It has not been used in a while, so of course it seized up, I managed to get it to work a bit using a hair blow dryer. However the needle doesn’t work to be moved left or right it’s stuck only in the center. Also when I disengage the clutch to wind the bobbin with thread the needle is still engaged. Any ideas how to fix it or any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it! Thank you in advance😁
The machine is still glued together inside. You will probably have to remove the special stitch cam assembly, so that you can watch the internals of the machine, determine what should be moving, and what it will take to free it. It's not uncommon for the hair dryer to melt the old lubricant enough that the machine works, then, while hot, but then won't work after it cools, because the old lubricant cools, and returns to thick glue. In situations like this, the pivoting parts have to be disassembled and cleaned with some type of solvent. You could try applying heat and WD40. WD40 is a terrible lubricant, but it's very high solvent, and won't hurt the paint on the machine. The WD40 may flush out the old lubricant, and allow you to apply something like TriFlow, and then synthetic sewing machine oil. Then once the stuck area cools, it will pivot.
Holy cow. How did you know all that stuff? Seriously, how does one obtain that level of knowledge? Repair manual, trial and error? I just purchased a used Pfaff 73 and I am researching on how to clean it. I hope I don't need to disassemble it. Thanks. Great video.
Thank you so much for posting this. I recently just purchased a 260 which has a problem with it being locked up. The needle bar will absolutely not move. Will this video instruction help solve the problem or do you perhaps fore-see it being something else? Your opinion/suggestion input is greatly appreciated. Look forward to your reply. :-)
Hi.. I have the 332 model and it´s in great condition and has spent most of it´s life sitting in a cupboard by the looks of it ... I dug it out again the other day to do some sewing repairs and it performed flawlessly as it usually does , after I was finished I decided to pull the top off and oil all the designated areas as well as a drop of oil through the oil hole in the base plate behind the feed dogs .. the following day the machine was to be used again however now for some reason the feed dogs will not engage the material in order to pull it through , in their top position (when turning by hand) they fall short of the top side of the plate by about 0.5 - 1.0 mm .. and yes they are engaged with the feed dog switch .... would greatly appreciate any ideas as to what could be causing this as I´m at my wits end as to why and what just from giving it oil ? there´s no adjustment screws as far as I can see
Hi @austinado16. Thanks a lot for this video. It's been really helpful; I now know what's wrong and that I can probably fix it myself. However, I can't figure out how to remove the pin from the machine. The lockring and set screws are removed, but it won't move at all. Sprayed some WD40 and applied heat, which did work in so far that the zigzag dial now moves. But I still can't seem to get the pin out. I tried hammering it out with a screw driver, but there's no movement at all. From the inside to the outside (and front) of the machine. Do you have any advice? It's a Pfaff 362 which is in fine working condition apart from the zigzag mechanism (and it won't stitch straight, even when the dial is set to 0, but I assume this is the same problem). Thanks!
Cool video. So my 362 isn't frozen but the zig-zag is not moving on its own but I can move the needle bar side to side by hand and sometimes moving the the needle position lever moves the needle bar or moves to right but doesn't follow left Does that top spring off the embroidery unit effect the positioning so much? More oiling?
I'm working on a friends Pfaff 260 and your video was a great help. I had to take the aluminum piece out to get it clean. My current problem is that when I put it back together the zigzag width knob will only turn from 0 to a bit less than 1. I've tried several times with the same result. Can't see what to do next.
Tough to offer accurate assistance via keyboard, sorry. If the dial works fine out of the machine, then the issue is probably how the components have been re-assembled after taking them apart.
Sorry for the delayed answer, but glad you got it working again. I'm usually able to free them up with heat, as I describe below. The one on this machine, along with the stitch length dial, were locked up solid. Both came back alive using PB Blaster and some gentle finesse. In the future, try to get in the habbit of running the machine once a month, even if you're not using it. Kinda hard to remember to do that, but it'll help it stay loose.
Good evening, one question. There is a screw just beside the nylon white gear showed in your video. As I understand it, this screw locks the other screw located in the back of the machine (to be precise, the latter scew is located in a little hole in the back of the machine). I was wondering what is the purpose of this screw, what it is supposed to adjust? In fact, I unscrewed this latter screw (after having unlocked it with the above screw) and now it is loose and does not seem to thighten or adjust anything???
I have a Pfaff 260 and the zig-zig function is not working, only the straight stitch. I removed to snap ring and the set screw but I cannot drive out the pin. It seems to be really stuck. Any recommendations how to remove it easily? Thank you so much!
I followed along and got my Pfaff 360 all cleaned up, unfortunately while reassembling, the zigzag tension spring that goes down by the drive belt fell inside. I was able to retrieve it but need some help connecting the lower end of the spring. Have you had to deal with this? Where does it connect and how do I access? THanks..
I have a Jeans Machine WHITE 1077 that this same problem occurred - the vaseline/gasoline combo worked like glue and the zig zag has stopped working. Machine still in good condition. The mechanics are slightly different than a Pfaff, but do you also know how I might go about fixing my machine? I'm very new at this, but want to figure it out!
Thanks for the great video. I haven't found anything else on these machines with regards to repair. Do you have any pointers that would help remove the pin? I have the set screw loose and the clip removed. There is no movement in the pin itself, and I suspect it is seized. Thanks again for the video, keep up the good work.
hi kirby im not sure if you got it done but what i did was... first get the locking screw and clip off then i let some penetrating oil soak into the grooves for a few days then i tapped the pin into the machine a bit just to loosen it (toward the nylon gear) then let more penetrating oil get in there then, VERY gently tapped the pin back out from the machine with a small hammer and a nail as a drift (pin pushing tool) in the past i have also use a hairdryer and/or heat gun on the area which helped get things loosened up, but again i do this with great care not to over do it.
Hello, you’re probably not going to see this but just in case you or someone else can help. I have bought a Pfaff 260 . The straight stitch works but the zigzag knob doesn’t turn past 1 and when I turn it the left to right lever moves with it. So clearly something is stuck together. I am not going to attempt to disassemble this machine, there is just no way that scenario ends well. But I would like to try to get it to work with one of the products you mentioned Kroil, Triflow or PB blaster. Where would I put these products exactly AND am I to use like a blow dryer or heat gun WITH these products. Thanks to anyone willing to help me.
In the video I show the areas that get glued together as the original lubricant dries up and leaves behind a sticky varnish residue that winds up gluing the pivot points. Apply the heat from a hair blow drier, and your penetrant (I would use Kroil) to these areas, and wait for the metal to heat up and start softening the varnish. Continue applying heat and then operate the machine and see if you can get zig-zag knob and function to begin to work. If you can get the machine to function, at TriFlow to the same areas where you used Kroil, and continue to operate the machine. You may get lucky, and get enough penetration from the Kroil, and enough lubricant from the TriFlow, that the varnish is displaced sufficiently so that it doesn't congeal and glue the machine back together once the metal cools, and/or the machine sits for a period of time without use.
@@austinado16 thank you so much for the information. I have to check the price of Kroil in stores here because from amazon it’s like 65$ might had well get it professionally serviced
have had a pfaff sience 1982, mo 260. loved it. while in hosp. it was stold andv sold. bought another off ebay. 260 model. it worked 30 min and froze up. cant find a repair man in the area. please help
With the top lid removed, watch how the mechanical parts are actuated when you rotate the stitch length knob. There is a "zero" position adjustment inside, and that has to be set so that when the knob is at zero, the mechanical arms aren't still "pulsing." I know that's sort of a rough description, but I think if you pop the lid off and look down inside at the pieces involved in stitch length, you'll be able to visualize what's happening, and locate the adjuster. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. I just picked up a Pfaff 360 and it had this exact problem. I followed your instructions and was able to resurrect a very nice machine. I will add for anyone else who owns one of these, a couple of links for parts diagrams and a service supplement manual that shows you how to fine tune the timing. It was very helpful to me, though I couldn't have even started without this video...Thanks again!! The links says for a 262, but it is the same for all of the models listed in this video (not sure about the 332 though). tinymicros.com/wiki/File:Pfaff_262_Service_Manual.pdf tinymicros.com/wiki/File:Pfaff_262_Parts_Manual.pdf
Gee thanks austinado16 for this video, the wife bought on of these 360s that had hardly if ever been used, in mint condition, but the ziz-zag control knob was solid as well as a few other small things. I don't think it had been used for decades. It came with it's cabinet with the rising hydraulic mechanism in. Not sure if we'll use the cabinet. Hope to have a go with the WD40 and hair dryer in a few days after the bank holiday. These machines do look like the bees knees of sewing machines. I like working on old mechanical things; they are built to last, not like some modern ones. Thanks again.
Need a new belt and tension. I cannot find either one. No repair person cannot find as well. In fact, all they have ever done is mess up my machine. Can you help?
Hi, I have a PFAFF 332 and am struggling to find information on how to fix the stitch length. The straight stitch length will not change from very small. The dial moves fine to larger numbers but it does not change the length when sewing. The zig zag works fine.
I believe stitch length is controlled by the feed dogs, which are the 2 rows of teeth located under the presser foot. The stitch length control makes the feed dogs function, so my guess would be that the machine needs cleaning/solvent in the underside, where you see these parts interacting with each other.
Hi, old vid.. but I hope to get an answer. The drive chain on my grandmothers pfaff automatic 362-261 was destroyed, and I ordered a new one, but i dont understand how I get the new one one over the wheels, do you know how to do this?
Sorry, but I can't do a video for that. I think you'll take the hand wheel off, and then the plate at the bottom, below the hand wheel will come off, and then maybe the very bottom of the machine where the motor sits on a plate?
RE: Stitch width dial... I spoke to Roy @ Budd Sewing Machine Co in Fresno and he got me going. Turns out you just loosen the set screw above the dial and the whole dial/lever unit comes out in one piece. After it's removed you can loosen the two small set screws that hold the various cams and levers on the shaft of the dial for dis-assembly and cleaning. It's much easier than I thought it was going to be.
Tgank you. I live in Berlin Germany and so do you think German sold models also had this VasGas stuff? I assume so if mine is stuck. If the repair works, can I donate a small sum to your channel? Patreon or PayPal maybe?
BTW, these machines and parts are fairly easy to find here if you need me to find you spare parts...I can bring it to the US when I visit next. Prices are lower here in general for Pfaff items
@@nathans1978 I'm probably not correct about the machines being sprayed inside with something. I made this video 10yrs ago. It's more likely that the lubrication that was used when they were built, simply breaks down over decades of non-use, and what remains is a very sticky residue. I've seen other machines do the exact same thing. Sometimes applying heat and something like TriFlow or PB Blaster or Kroil will free them up and flush out the sticky residue, and sometimes the stuck assembly has to be disassembled and cleaned. Thank you for the offer of a donation, but there's no need. I just do this for fun.
There is a spring that comes upward, from down inside the machine, and grabs that dark metal "hook" that is shown at the very beginning of your video. You'll probably have to shine a bright LED penlight down into the machine, in order to find the top hook of that long spring. It's a bright silver spring, so should be easy to find. Also, at 3:32 you are asking about "should this be under this?" Take a look at the little foot that you see moving up and down. I think that should be completely on the other side of that area, so that the tip of that foot is riding on the underside. As you have it installed now, the tip of that foot is just pointing up into the air not touching anything, AND, it is touching the other pieces, keep you from being able to rotate the zig-zag width dial fully from "0" to "4".
@@austinado16 the spring is removed on purpose. But that positioning that you mentioned is something that I will try after work. Thank you. I will let you know how it went.
@@madvelila I'm not talking about the top spring that lays horizontally. I'm talking about the spring that is vertical and goes straight down into the bottom of the machine, on the left side of the cog belt. That spring needs to hook onto the dark colored metal hook, that you show at the very start of your video. But maybe that's the spring you are talking about right now, to me, it's hard to tell because in your video, you talk about having removed the horizontal spring, but you don't talk about the vertical spring. At any rate, good luck with the repair.
@@madvelila Ok. Then I think you just have that foot on the wrong side. If you look at other Pfaff 360 or 260 videos, you'll see that the dark metal hook is actually very low in the machine, and that thin threaded adjuster is also very low. On your machine, those 2 are sitting very high, and angled up, pointing to the left. So I think we've found the problem, and it should be easy to take care of it.
Hi, I have a pfaff 260, and your tip of using a hairdryer to loosen up the grease worked really well! The problem I have now is that the motor starts humming when I plug in the power chord. Then after pressing the pedal it starts to run, but won't stop running even when lifting my foot off the pedal. When I disconnect and reconnect the power chord, the humming is back but the machine doen't run until I press the pedal and the same thing happens. Do you have an idea what might be causing the humming and the machine that keeps running?
You can just remove the capacitor from the foot pedal - it is no longer needed. It was put in the foot pedals to help with interference with TV's and radios. Newer TVs and radios no longer have the problem with interference.
Hi, glad that helped you.
Re: the stitch width. First, use a hair blow dryer, from inside the machine, to get the metal components in the area of the dial, hot. You are not pointing the blow dryer at the white plastic knob on the outside of the machine! You are pointing the blow dryer at the metal levers inside the machine, so take the lid off the machine.
Once you have the components hot, spary with PB Blaster and start working the control knob. It should free up.
Wow - I am in awe at your skill. Thank you so much. I have a Pfaff from 1955 and am gaining courage to oil her properly and fix the presser foot when it is floppy, but haven't ever tried to do what you can do. I love these old machines.
Thanks for the video. I was able to free up my 362 with a heat gun (with narrow tip) 800degF and pointed at the aluminum arm. I used Kroil to lube the entire assembly.
Brilliant! These adjustments have been haunting me for years. I couldn't really find it in the service manual either.
Glad I could help!
Pfaff manual and schematics are here ua-cam.com/video/9HKoq86IKu8/v-deo.html
Thanks a lot from denmark... The pin was fully glued to the shaft, so there was no movement at all, when i wanted a zig-zag... Now it is clean (all over) and it sews like a new machine. My Pfaff 260 (without the embrodery) is from '53...
excellent, thanks for this, it leaves the manual for dead
Thank you. I didn't need this on my machine, but it helps to know more about the inner workings.
Your suggestion using a hair dryer and solvent worked perfectly to get the zigzag on my Pfaff 360 to work. I couldn't turn the screws that hold the cam mechanism in place, so I sprayed the areas you described using the long, thin tube on the can and heated those connections with the hair dryer. Then I kept the heat on and began putting the zigzag to work until it ran correctly, 0 to 4, forward and reverse. I am so grateful to you. Until someone can do a better job, at least I can keep the machine running properly. Thanks, again.
Patricia Pflum So glad you found this info helpful and were able to get your machine working again. Nice job!
Thank you. Excellent, useful instructions.
You're very welcome! I still have this machine, and am currently doing a couple sewing projects on damaged ski gear with it.
Thanks for watching, and for the nice comment!
Hi Austinado16,
Many thanks for your time and video-work!
I have 3 Pfaffs to repair with the same 'problems' - 260, 2x 360 and we have also two perfectly working Pfaffs; the 332 and 362. All automatics except the 332.
We just love the Pfaffs. Your video will sure help me out. Even though I do have the repair technical manual.
So, many thanks! If I encounter problems with the repair, I sure will post them here..
After freeing up the zig zag function as is so clearly detailed in the video, I found that on one of the machines, the zig zag function worked but the machine seemed to bog down when I switched from straight stitching to zig zag ( 0 to 4). I traced the problem to the needle bar assembly. After removing the needle bar cover, I found that the adjustment screw pivot, the slide block and the interface between the needle bar and the crank which drives the needle bar were all bound up with shellac. I completely removed the adjustment cam screw, and slid the needle bar on its slide out and away from the crank arm. Using lacquer thinner I then cleaned up the slide, the pivot shaft and the adjustment screw cam pivot. The shaft that is driven by the crank also has to pivot. The pivot on the square block on the needle bar was also frozen. After freeing up these pivot joints, and reassembling and re-lubing, the bog down problem was gone and the machine spun freely in all modes.
Thank you so much for this video. I could not figure out how to center needle until I came across this video. Centering needle is at 3:00 for anybody looking for help with needle position. 👍
You're welcome! Glad you were able to get it dialed in.
austinado16 I have a 360 and have been dealing with a timing issue when I use the ZZ. Needle hits hook but can not figure out a easy way to adjust timming. In straight stitch is perfect chain stitch. Any help would be appreciated.
I'm sorry, I can't help you with that one.
Maybe your needle is too long or adjusted down too far.
Concerning the "Pfaff Automatic 362-261 Gebrauchsanleitung". Page 8 & 9 of that manual is about the "Zierstich-Automatic":
=> To prevent the Automatic function from freezing. From time to time use E=3 (top white wheel), D=4 (Top coverd black wheel), C=5 (Upper front wheel) for several minutes. With lifted presserfoot & no sewing cotton.
The E wheel is for the pattern length. At 0 the Automatic drive is off. Then only zig-zag.
Thank you for the information!
Very clear video. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!
Wonderful video! Todd is there any way I can get any reassemble information from you? Photos would be wonderful!
Thanks Teresa! I still own and use this machine, but I'm not sure how "reassembly" info or photos would help you because of how complex the machines are inside. There'd just be no way of showing all the detail and settings.
Thank you for this. I had a 362 that sewed straight and stitch length dial would only turn to 1. The zig zag lever was stuck in the down position. Following along this video, figured out both pins were totally glued inside. Before I came along this video though I couldn't even begin to figure out what was happening inside. It's no vintage Singer.. :D
You're welcome. Glad you were able to get it all dialed in!
thanks,,, it worked,,, you saved me $125.00 ,, 2x,, [ I have 2 of these lil girls ] & I downloaded the service manual for free, to compare what your saying & what the manual says , you showed me what to do & the manual put names to the parts & what they do,, NOW ON WITH ADDING ON THE TOP CAM ASSEMBLY,,, KEEPING MY FINGERS CROSSED,,, THANKS !!!! ,,,
You're welcome! Glad this helped you out AND saved you some money. It's always a good feeling to repair something successfully!
My Pfaff reverse control knob is frozen. Very complicated. No wonder the sewing repair shop guy said he couldn’t repair the machine due to unavailable parts. 🤣. Fortunately my old Singer will be repaired without issue.
Maybe your Pfaff just needs to be freed up, and doesn't actually need any parts. Good luck with it.
This video was very helpful in restoring a Pfaff 260.
I was hoping that you could do a video on how to remove and clean the upper tension assembly and the stitch length regulator.
Mark.
Very helpful video, tnx.
You're welcome!
Excellent video and explanation. Internet must be listening, my son asked me yesterday what kind of lubrication they came with ? Ha ! I was speculating on using some Zoom turbine oil, wondering how that would work on our 260.
Glad it helped. Thanks for watching!
Hey Brian, I recognized your voice from your other sewing machine videos, before I found where it said your name, I didn't realize austinado16 was you! LOL! Anyway, I have really enjoyed your videos over the years, & sharing sewing machine repair & maintenance information. I purchased a 360 off eBay a few years back, that sewed the straight stitch perfectly, but I didn't try the zigzag until more than a year after buying it, only to discover that some dork had taken it apart, & put it back together, backwards, so the zigzag mechanism is trapped, so it can't zigzag, so I was trying to refamiliarize myself with these wonderful old Pfaff's innards, & really appreciate your video! Thank you!
+Rebecca Ware (Becky's Sewing Warehouse) Sorry, but my name isn't Brian. Glad you're finding the videos helpful though!
Great video. Was able to free up one 362 and two 360's. Would like to understand the adjustments better. From what I understand the screw in the rear middle with lock screw adjusts the width of the zig zag. The screw in front which you access with your screwdriver turned sideways eliminates zigzag when you are dialed at zero. The screw on the mechanism arm with locknut centers the zig zag with regard to the straight stitch. The front adjustment moves the entire zig zag range in relation to the slot in the bottom plate. Am I correct? When accessing these adjustment screws, you will find that they are also frozen. I had to use PB blaster and a heat gun with a small diameter tip to concentrate the heat. It is also important to use screwdrivers that have the exact tip width and tip length especially on the front lock screw. I had to custom file and fit the tip to fill the screw slot because the screw was so hard to turn even with heat.
I have a Pfaff 362 machine and was wondering if the video applied in my case. The machine will straight stitch and zig zag. The cam system will turn but doesn't seem to be working at all. The left right center needle lever doesn't work ether. But you can turn the lever left right and center. Reverse works too but I notice that as I turn the stitch length dial the reverse lever doesn't move as much. Moving it all the way to the end the lever doesn't move hardly at all.
You'll just have to take it all apart and clean out all the varnish that is gluing the pivoting components together. Once everything is freed up, it will work perfectly again.
Hello, I have a Pfaff 332 and my Zig Zag Button blockedg in the middle of the work. It does not any more. The rest of the mechanics is easy going. I already pulled off the white botton and tried to move the screwed rod but nothing happens. I bought the machine some time ago. The seller told me it was refreshed and showed me also a bill. I wanted to learn sewing on this machine but this week my mother was the first to use it. First the button could be moved, not easely and suddenly it blocked.
Hello! I'm sorry to hear that the machine is giving you a problem, but it's not uncommon for these old machines if they haven't been heated, freed up inside, and lubricated. If you follow the video, you'll be able to take the top off the machine, and use a hair blow dryer to get the inside of the machine really hot. This will melt that varnish that is gluing the machine and keeping all the internal parts from moving smoothly. While it's really hot, use synthetic sewing machine oil on all the pivoting and moving parts. Good luck!
Thanks for watching, and for your comment!
Thank you so much for posting this. I inherited a Pfaff 362 that had the same issue, and followed your instructions to free up the zig-zag mechanism.
Could you also post something about how to remove and clean the stitch width dial? Mine is very difficult to move, and it feels like it has the same issue with varnish buildup.
Awesome video Todd! I purchased a Pfaff 260 that only does straight stich and zig zag. It has not been used in a while, so of course it seized up, I managed to get it to work a bit using a hair blow dryer. However the needle doesn’t work to be moved left or right it’s stuck only in the center. Also when I disengage the clutch to wind the bobbin with thread the needle is still engaged. Any ideas how to fix it or any suggestions I would greatly appreciate it! Thank you in advance😁
The machine is still glued together inside. You will probably have to remove the special stitch cam assembly, so that you can watch the internals of the machine, determine what should be moving, and what it will take to free it. It's not uncommon for the hair dryer to melt the old lubricant enough that the machine works, then, while hot, but then won't work after it cools, because the old lubricant cools, and returns to thick glue. In situations like this, the pivoting parts have to be disassembled and cleaned with some type of solvent.
You could try applying heat and WD40. WD40 is a terrible lubricant, but it's very high solvent, and won't hurt the paint on the machine. The WD40 may flush out the old lubricant, and allow you to apply something like TriFlow, and then synthetic sewing machine oil. Then once the stuck area cools, it will pivot.
Holy cow. How did you know all that stuff? Seriously, how does one obtain that level of knowledge? Repair manual, trial and error? I just purchased a used Pfaff 73 and I am researching on how to clean it. I hope I don't need to disassemble it. Thanks. Great video.
Thank you so much for posting this. I recently just purchased a 260 which has a problem with it being locked up. The needle bar will absolutely not move. Will this video instruction help solve the problem or do you perhaps fore-see it being something else? Your opinion/suggestion input is greatly appreciated. Look forward to your reply. :-)
Hi.. I have the 332 model and it´s in great condition and has spent most of it´s life sitting in a cupboard by the looks of it ... I dug it out again the other day to do some sewing repairs and it performed flawlessly as it usually does , after I was finished I decided to pull the top off and oil all the designated areas as well as a drop of oil through the oil hole in the base plate behind the feed dogs .. the following day the machine was to be used again however now for some reason the feed dogs will not engage the material in order to pull it through , in their top position (when turning by hand) they fall short of the top side of the plate by about 0.5 - 1.0 mm .. and yes they are engaged with the feed dog switch .... would greatly appreciate any ideas as to what could be causing this as I´m at my wits end as to why and what just from giving it oil ? there´s no adjustment screws as far as I can see
Hi @austinado16. Thanks a lot for this video. It's been really helpful; I now know what's wrong and that I can probably fix it myself.
However, I can't figure out how to remove the pin from the machine. The lockring and set screws are removed, but it won't move at all. Sprayed some WD40 and applied heat, which did work in so far that the zigzag dial now moves. But I still can't seem to get the pin out. I tried hammering it out with a screw driver, but there's no movement at all. From the inside to the outside (and front) of the machine.
Do you have any advice? It's a Pfaff 362 which is in fine working condition apart from the zigzag mechanism (and it won't stitch straight, even when the dial is set to 0, but I assume this is the same problem).
Thanks!
Cool video. So my 362 isn't frozen but the zig-zag is not moving on its own but I can move the needle bar side to side by hand and sometimes moving the the needle position lever moves the needle bar or moves to right but doesn't follow left Does that top spring off the embroidery unit effect the positioning so much? More oiling?
I'm working on a friends Pfaff 260 and your video was a great help. I had to take the aluminum piece out to get it clean. My current problem is that when I put it back together the zigzag width knob will only turn from 0 to a bit less than 1. I've tried several times with the same result. Can't see what to do next.
Tough to offer accurate assistance via keyboard, sorry. If the dial works fine out of the machine, then the issue is probably how the components have been re-assembled after taking them apart.
Sorry for the delayed answer, but glad you got it working again. I'm usually able to free them up with heat, as I describe below. The one on this machine, along with the stitch length dial, were locked up solid. Both came back alive using PB Blaster and some gentle finesse.
In the future, try to get in the habbit of running the machine once a month, even if you're not using it. Kinda hard to remember to do that, but it'll help it stay loose.
Good evening, one question.
There is a screw just beside the nylon white gear showed in your video.
As I understand it, this screw locks the other screw located in the back of the machine (to be precise, the latter scew is located in a little hole in the back of the machine).
I was wondering what is the purpose of this screw, what it is supposed to adjust?
In fact, I unscrewed this latter screw (after having unlocked it with the above screw) and now it is loose and does not seem to thighten or adjust anything???
Mmmm... good question. I still own this machine, and still use it, but I've never played around with that part of the machine.
Ok. Thank you.I will try to figure it out!
I have a Pfaff 260 and the zig-zig function is not working, only the straight stitch. I removed to snap ring and the set screw but I cannot drive out the pin. It seems to be really stuck. Any recommendations how to remove it easily? Thank you so much!
lt's probably glued in position with varnish and will require heat from a hair blow dryer.
I followed along and got my Pfaff 360 all cleaned up, unfortunately while reassembling, the zigzag tension spring that goes down by the drive belt fell inside. I was able to retrieve it but need some help connecting the lower end of the spring. Have you had to deal with this? Where does it connect and how do I access? THanks..
I have a Jeans Machine WHITE 1077 that this same problem occurred - the vaseline/gasoline combo worked like glue and the zig zag has stopped working. Machine still in good condition. The mechanics are slightly different than a Pfaff, but do you also know how I might go about fixing my machine? I'm very new at this, but want to figure it out!
I don't know the specifics of your machine, but you could try heat from a hair blow dryer and a penetrating oil.
Thanks for the great video. I haven't found anything else on these machines with regards to repair. Do you have any pointers that would help remove the pin? I have the set screw loose and the clip removed. There is no movement in the pin itself, and I suspect it is seized.
Thanks again for the video, keep up the good work.
hi kirby im not sure if you got it done but what i did was...
first get the locking screw and clip off
then i let some penetrating oil soak into the grooves for a few days
then i tapped the pin into the machine a bit just to loosen it (toward the nylon gear)
then let more penetrating oil get in there
then, VERY gently tapped the pin back out from the machine with a small hammer and a nail as a drift (pin pushing tool)
in the past i have also use a hairdryer and/or heat gun on the area which helped get things loosened up, but again i do this with great care not to over do it.
Hello, you’re probably not going to see this but just in case you or someone else can help. I have bought a Pfaff 260 . The straight stitch works but the zigzag knob doesn’t turn past 1 and when I turn it the left to right lever moves with it. So clearly something is stuck together. I am not going to attempt to disassemble this machine, there is just no way that scenario ends well. But I would like to try to get it to work with one of the products you mentioned Kroil, Triflow or PB blaster. Where would I put these products exactly AND am I to use like a blow dryer or heat gun WITH these products. Thanks to anyone willing to help me.
In the video I show the areas that get glued together as the original lubricant dries up and leaves behind a sticky varnish residue that winds up gluing the pivot points. Apply the heat from a hair blow drier, and your penetrant (I would use Kroil) to these areas, and wait for the metal to heat up and start softening the varnish. Continue applying heat and then operate the machine and see if you can get zig-zag knob and function to begin to work. If you can get the machine to function, at TriFlow to the same areas where you used Kroil, and continue to operate the machine. You may get lucky, and get enough penetration from the Kroil, and enough lubricant from the TriFlow, that the varnish is displaced sufficiently so that it doesn't congeal and glue the machine back together once the metal cools, and/or the machine sits for a period of time without use.
@@austinado16 thank you so much for the information. I have to check the price of Kroil in stores here because from amazon it’s like 65$ might had well get it professionally serviced
have had a pfaff sience 1982, mo 260. loved it. while in hosp. it was stold andv sold. bought another off ebay. 260 model. it worked 30 min and froze up. cant find a repair man in the area. please help
I managed to do my own, but it wasn’t straight there. What could be wrong if the stitch length is 1 mm in position 0?
With the top lid removed, watch how the mechanical parts are actuated when you rotate the stitch length knob. There is a "zero" position adjustment inside, and that has to be set so that when the knob is at zero, the mechanical arms aren't still "pulsing." I know that's sort of a rough description, but I think if you pop the lid off and look down inside at the pieces involved in stitch length, you'll be able to visualize what's happening, and locate the adjuster. Thanks for watching!
@@austinado16 Many thanks! I made it!
Thanks for the video. I just picked up a Pfaff 360 and it had this exact problem. I followed your instructions and was able to resurrect a very nice machine. I will add for anyone else who owns one of these, a couple of links for parts diagrams and a service supplement manual that shows you how to fine tune the timing. It was very helpful to me, though I couldn't have even started without this video...Thanks again!!
The links says for a 262, but it is the same for all of the models listed in this video (not sure about the 332 though).
tinymicros.com/wiki/File:Pfaff_262_Service_Manual.pdf
tinymicros.com/wiki/File:Pfaff_262_Parts_Manual.pdf
Glad you found it helpful and thanks for the links!
Thank you!
Gee thanks austinado16 for this video, the wife bought on of these 360s that had hardly if ever been used, in mint condition, but the ziz-zag control knob was solid as well as a few other small things. I don't think it had been used for decades. It came with it's cabinet with the rising hydraulic mechanism in. Not sure if we'll use the cabinet. Hope to have a go with the WD40 and hair dryer in a few days after the bank holiday. These machines do look like the bees knees of sewing machines. I like working on old mechanical things; they are built to last, not like some modern ones. Thanks again.
Need a new belt and tension. I cannot find either one. No repair person cannot find as well. In fact, all they have ever done is mess up my machine. Can you help?
Hi,
I have a PFAFF 332 and am struggling to find information on how to fix the stitch length. The straight stitch length will not change from very small. The dial moves fine to larger numbers but it does not change the length when sewing. The zig zag works fine.
I believe stitch length is controlled by the feed dogs, which are the 2 rows of teeth located under the presser foot. The stitch length control makes the feed dogs function, so my guess would be that the machine needs cleaning/solvent in the underside, where you see these parts interacting with each other.
Hola,Donde podre conseguir el disco indicador de puntadas de la maquina PFAFF 260? La compre de segunda mano y no la trajo, Gracias
Hola, How to change toothed belt for buttonhole pfaff 3116? Thank you
Hi, old vid.. but I hope to get an answer. The drive chain on my grandmothers pfaff automatic 362-261 was destroyed, and I ordered a new one, but i dont understand how I get the new one one over the wheels, do you know how to do this?
Remove the upper white flywheel. Belt chain goes on the left side of the larger lower gear, not right side..
Hi, My mum has a Pfaff 260 sewing machine. Would you be able to advise or do a video on how to replace the carbon brushes. Thanks
Sorry, but I can't do a video for that. I think you'll take the hand wheel off, and then the plate at the bottom, below the hand wheel will come off, and then maybe the very bottom of the machine where the motor sits on a plate?
My cousin lent me her machine.
It was just serviced but the zig zag doesn't work.
At least I know it is a current problem.
She has a phaff 362
The 362 is still such a fantastic machine. I hope you can get it freed up, and really start enjoying it. Thanks for watching!
RE: Stitch width dial... I spoke to Roy @ Budd Sewing Machine Co in Fresno and he got me going. Turns out you just loosen the set screw above the dial and the whole dial/lever unit comes out in one piece. After it's removed you can loosen the two small set screws that hold the various cams and levers on the shaft of the dial for dis-assembly and cleaning. It's much easier than I thought it was going to be.
Great video! I just got a 260, oiled it, and all runs smoothly but it stays in zigzag mode. Could i send you.a video and ask for your advice?
The solution to your problem is in the video of this machine. No need to send me one.
Tgank you. I live in Berlin Germany and so do you think German sold models also had this VasGas stuff? I assume so if mine is stuck. If the repair works, can I donate a small sum to your channel? Patreon or PayPal maybe?
BTW, these machines and parts are fairly easy to find here if you need me to find you spare parts...I can bring it to the US when I visit next. Prices are lower here in general for Pfaff items
@@nathans1978 I'm probably not correct about the machines being sprayed inside with something. I made this video 10yrs ago. It's more likely that the lubrication that was used when they were built, simply breaks down over decades of non-use, and what remains is a very sticky residue. I've seen other machines do the exact same thing. Sometimes applying heat and something like TriFlow or PB Blaster or Kroil will free them up and flush out the sticky residue, and sometimes the stuck assembly has to be disassembled and cleaned.
Thank you for the offer of a donation, but there's no need. I just do this for fun.
Please help me to figure out if I have assembled the stitch width mechanosm incorrectly: ua-cam.com/video/gyOHTw7_fTs/v-deo.htmlsi=PZiHPqZgMjdfocKN
There is a spring that comes upward, from down inside the machine, and grabs that dark metal "hook" that is shown at the very beginning of your video. You'll probably have to shine a bright LED penlight down into the machine, in order to find the top hook of that long spring. It's a bright silver spring, so should be easy to find. Also, at 3:32 you are asking about "should this be under this?" Take a look at the little foot that you see moving up and down. I think that should be completely on the other side of that area, so that the tip of that foot is riding on the underside. As you have it installed now, the tip of that foot is just pointing up into the air not touching anything, AND, it is touching the other pieces, keep you from being able to rotate the zig-zag width dial fully from "0" to "4".
@@austinado16 the spring is removed on purpose. But that positioning that you mentioned is something that I will try after work. Thank you. I will let you know how it went.
@@madvelila I'm not talking about the top spring that lays horizontally. I'm talking about the spring that is vertical and goes straight down into the bottom of the machine, on the left side of the cog belt. That spring needs to hook onto the dark colored metal hook, that you show at the very start of your video. But maybe that's the spring you are talking about right now, to me, it's hard to tell because in your video, you talk about having removed the horizontal spring, but you don't talk about the vertical spring. At any rate, good luck with the repair.
@@austinado16 Yeas, I have removed that vertical spring for purpose. Thank you.
@@madvelila Ok. Then I think you just have that foot on the wrong side. If you look at other Pfaff 360 or 260 videos, you'll see that the dark metal hook is actually very low in the machine, and that thin threaded adjuster is also very low. On your machine, those 2 are sitting very high, and angled up, pointing to the left. So I think we've found the problem, and it should be easy to take care of it.
Hi, I have a pfaff 260, and your tip of using a hairdryer to loosen up the grease worked really well! The problem I have now is that the motor starts humming when I plug in the power chord. Then after pressing the pedal it starts to run, but won't stop running even when lifting my foot off the pedal. When I disconnect and reconnect the power chord, the humming is back but the machine doen't run until I press the pedal and the same thing happens. Do you have an idea what might be causing the humming and the machine that keeps running?
I have no idea what could be causing that. Sorry I'm not able to help.
I got this problem with my Pfaff 360, as well. There is a capasitor in the foot pedal. When I replaced it, the machine was OK again.
Ok I will try, thanks!
Arne Kverneland hi do you know what size/spec capacitor to use? my pedal works, but the capacitor is making crackling and popping sounds...
You can just remove the capacitor from the foot pedal - it is no longer needed. It was put in the foot pedals to help with interference with TV's and radios. Newer TVs and radios no longer have the problem with interference.