Don't Buy a Neutrik Silent PLUG with Mogami Cable. MAKE ONE YOURSELF
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- Опубліковано 29 сер 2017
- How to make a Neutrik Silent Plug on Mogami Guitar or instrument cable. Clear, step by step. This is among the best professional cables out there. Static free, silent when plugging in or touching any metal on your guitar. See how to build a Silent cable using the Neutrik Plugs and the Mogami cable.
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amzn.to/2wpKYcH --- MOGAMI 2524 Cable
amzn.to/2erFQjR --- NEUTRIK SilentPLUG
amzn.to/2x7fhHx ---NEUTRIK SilentPLUG right angle
amzn.to/2wpJqiQ -- Helping hands for soldering
amzn.to/2x7bHgH --- Soldering Iron
amzn.to/2wpUmNC -- Stripping tool
amzn.to/2Alrpbe -- Rosin core solder
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All parts are accessible and you can easily build a $100 plus cable (depending on the length) for almost a third of the price.
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Here is a direct link to the Neutrik silent plug: amzn.to/2erFQjR
Thanks for the video Jake! I feel there are 2 important items you left out: 1) that black insulation on the interior shield is conductive so its extra important to strip enough off so that is doesn't short the internal conductor. 2) it's wayyyyyy easier to put the boot on before stripping the cables.
Good instructional video, thanks.
Thanks for the link to the wire stripper been looking for a decent one for ages
The beginning when he tried to show static made me laugh idk why but it reminded me of be trying to plug in my cable in the dark
WOW ! Going to watch some more .. Love these vids...
i had my whole rack hooked up with this cable. zero mechanical noise . it helped lower the noise floor of my rig until i no longer need to use any noise gate. my guitar cable is made of mogami 2524 too, it had been ran over office chair for 5 years plus and still working flawlessly.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge 🙂
Some people are selling those cables overpriced on eBay.
Great video! Ive built many a cable and the Mogami is nice, but you should really check out Canare wire. The shielding is tightly braided which helps the cables stand up to extreme touring or other rugged use for years. Over time, the mogami Ive used gets rolled over by enough wheels and/or heavy road cases that the wrapped shielding separates in spots and you get noise in your lines. Yes, it makes building cables a bit more challenging as you need a pick type tool to help unbraid the canare shield, but the end result is worth it!
MarkThomasOfficial my thoughts exactly. Canare is awesome for that reason. Yes, you need a toothpick to separate the strands, but it takes only a few seconds with a good sharp wooden pick.
Use Mogami 3368 "Ultimate" - the shield is braided on those as well.
Good video thank you.
I work with building/soldering custom cables daily and just wanted to point out a few things I noticed. First off you want a soldering iron with variable temperature 650-750 degrees is ideal for a job like this. Second put your connector in a vice grip. Not your cable in alligator clips. Always tin your wires before terminating. Your ground wire will fit in the cup much easier if you use a pair of needle nose pliers and flatten it out. I would also recommend heat shrink to avoid bridging connections (plus it looks good). Aside from the above mentioned listen to this guy. You definitely don’t have to spend $100+ to get a quality instrument cable when you can build it yourself!
wow that radioshack official branded solder got me drunk on nostalgia bro
Big Thanks!
That's super clever
I know this is an old video, but it's critical to know that second thin layer is actually conductive! It's used to dissipate static charges when flexing/moving the cable, so it's very important that when soldering, that layer does not touch inner core. Else you will have tremendous resistance and your guitar signal will mostly be dead quiet.
This is really excellent, thanks so much! I'm so sick of spending so much money on (mostly) crappily made cables.
So do you put the mono plug on one end and the silent on the other I missed that even though you mentioned both thanks
Does anyone know if the Klotz silent plug is from the same manufacturer? This looks pretty similar, but curious who actually makes them.
Can this plug handle active pickups? I mean stereo outputs on guitar?
I have 2 silent plugs which broke down under normal use.
One after 14 months and the next one 2 weeks ago which I bought in October last year.
Both were the straight ones.
I have one cable with the 90 deg. Angle silent plug, this one seems to survive.
Works perfectly, but the quality is not what I used to with Neutrik.
Someone with the same problem?
Good video btw. 👍
Are them Neutrik angle connectors a good fit for pedalboards or are the Amphenol ones better for that?
There are a number of amazon reviewers who said the plug failed too soon. Do you have any thoughts about that? Sounds like they lasted only 6 months for some. Of course others did not have that issue.
Before trying to teach to someone YOU have to know how to "first"!
I think you may have left out the link to the rosin-core solder in the description.
You are right! I missed it. Here you go: amzn.to/2Alrpbe
Also, did you end up using the black tubing I see on your work surface? Does that go around the cable at it each end? And finally, is there a link to purchase the tubing? Thanks so much.
Спасибо за этот урок, мужик!
Hello. It's neccesary to have both ends of the cable with silent plug?
No, just the guitar end. Neutrik warns that damage can occur to your amp if both ends are silent
Klotz+neutrik+diy = the best cable ever...
Nice
Thanks
Is strain put on the soldered contacts when standing, pulling etc? It must have a mechanism to protect from that.
the second part that he puts on the cable before soldering is a chuck that squeezes around the cable and holds it in place. so the tension is on the outer jacket and not on the solder points ;)
Does this work on active bass also?
Yep.
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how can you recognize a cold solder joint ?
Old comment, but if you’re still out there, a cold solder joint will be dull grey in color and clumpy/ lumpy. A good solder joint will be bright and shiny and smooth. Not to say anything bad about the guy that made the video, but he needs a new soldering iron. You could tell just by looking that it wasn’t hot enough.
@@quantumfoam140 Old comment, but just a heads up: Pb-free solder is dull grey even if it is not a cold joint.
lol from the title I thought you will teach how to make a silent plug from a regular neutrik plug. over here the silent plug, L shaped are quite pricey.
2:17 how do you think Canare wire compares to Mogami cable? The Canare is finely braded and interlinked for the entire length.
I work with Canare and Mogami cables daily as I build custom cables at my job and they’re fairly similar quality in my opinion.
my neutrik silent broke in few years, it's not a silent more
Mogami 2524 Cable
NP2X AU Silent, End Jack
Really good thanks! Will make it. There's something didn't understand.. Can i solder two silent plugs on both sides of the cable? Or the silent plug can only be plugged to the guitar?
I dont see a reason why you can't do that. Typically, the cable is first plugged into the amp, so you dont have to worry about static until the guitar is plugged in. But if u want a silent plug on both sides, I dont see the harm in it.
jakeguitar01 ok cool. So then to put two silent ends will make the sound even better, won't it?
Yes. If you put silent plugs on both ends that would be better. That way you do have to worry about which end you grab first. Also, dont forget to buy the right plugs. Check the description in this video for the link.
Neutrik have a warning on their site about this. You might smoke your amp input or pedals input by shorting out the input directly. Some will need a small amount of resistance to operate.
I think one end silent and the other end "noisy" is the way to go in light of Neutrik's warning.
That second black layer is not insulation - it’s additional shielding. That’s why it’s so important to peal it back away from the center conductor.
A little bit of old fashioned flux really helps tin the connection points on the plug, and tinning those contact points on the plug before soldering the connection.
Apply rosin before soldering, please. Thank you
He didn’t even tin the plug contacts
Worst jack plug I ever had, after one year it breaks and it's not possible to repair because the mechanism is closed and it is undisassemblable.
Advice: put some flux on the copper before tining it, the solder will wick smoother
NEVER melt solder by pressing it on the soldering iron. It destroys the flux, which should be applied directly on the wire.
INSTEAD: heat the wire that you wish to tin (you may add a blob of solder on the iron to help with heat transfer) and have that wire melt the solder.
I wouldn't say never. You want to melt solder on the soldering iron to load the tip with solder, for example in order to improve thermal transfer. But you do this when the spot you want to solder already has flux applied. But yeah, not never.
I make a line of guitar cords called GUITARTEC AUTO CORDS that automatically cut the signal the instant you pull the plug from the guitar. This is the only style of guitar cord I make- I do NOT make non-switched regular instrument cords, mic, speaker cables or effect jumpers.
So you know, these switched 1/4" plugs ALWAYS go into the instrument, never into the amp. Each cord's other end is always a normal non-switched straight or 90º 1/4" phone plug of the same brand as the instrument side. I make these cords using high quality Mogami cable and the customer's choice of either the German-made red Neutrik SilentPlug (either straight or 90º) as seen in this video OR an Australian-made Amphernol SwitchPlug (either straight or 90º).
HERE'S THEIR PROS AND CONS
These plugs use a spring-loaded switch that surrounds the 1/4" sleeve of the plug. When inserted into a guitar output jack, the switch gets pushed in, thus, allowing the signal flow from the guitar to the amp.
Both these manufacturers use a 360º plastic cable strain relief that bares down on the cord when the plug's shell is screwed onto the body of the plug. This ensures the solder connections are not stressed when the cord is pulled on for any reason.
The Amphenol Switchplug uses a standard spring-loaded blue switch and the red Neutrik SilentPlug uses an internally sealed magnetic Reed switch. The Neutrik switch is much easier to push in than the Amphenol, where the Amphenol can sometimes push itself out of an old, worn out or cheap jack due to its tight spring. Also, in some cases where an acoustic guitar has an end-pin jack that does not protrude enough past the screw-on strap button to push in either plug's switch. A simple jack adjustment is then necessary.
These plugs are not infallible. Due to the easy push-in Reed switch on the Neutrik plug, just grabbing the plug to insert it into a guitar I've accidentally pushed in the switch allowing a loud amp to suddenly be ON. This is precisely what these plugs are supposed to protect you against. It has never happened to me with the Amphenol plug.
The Neutrik's Reed switch is not affected by contaminates, whereas the spring switch in the Amphenol could possibly be affected by dirt, but at least you can clean it with electric motor cleaner or even WD-40 if necessary.
Here's a possible deal breaker; The Neutrik 90º plug has a defect that Neutrik swears is "fixed", but I've seen no evidence of this. For some reason, the male portion of the 90º Neutrik SilentPlug loosens from the plug's body over time, thus allowing it to cock at a slight angle and jam the switch in either the open or closed position. You need to physically straighten the plug with your thumb and the switch starts to work normally again. Neutrik needs to ensure the male portion cannot move AND also chamfer the inside of the switch's front edge so it can't dig into the gold plating. FYI... this issue only involves the Neutrik 90º SlientPlug, NOT their straight SilentPlug.
These plugs are NOT industructible in any way. They must be treated with respect and they'll give years of excellent service. Inspect them often!
OTHER THINGS TO KNOW... A gold-plated plug is only useful if it's inserted into a jack that has gold-plated contacts inside, otherwise, there are no benefits. Plus, the gold is only microns thick, so you can bet after some use, it will be worn off soon. guitarelectronics.com/switchcraft-1-4-gold-guitar-jack-w-1-4-threaded-collar/
The Neutrik SilentPlug is harder to assemble than the Amphenol SwitchPlug
Nuetrik and Amphenol are not the only automatic plugs on the market. Switchcraft has made them since the 70's. other switch plugs; www.fullcompass.com/prod/023686-switchcraft-182-1-4-ts-m-cable-mount-silent-plug-screw-terminals?dfw_tracker=36058-023686&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8vXexezY6wIViIbACh0ehQ12EAQYAiABEgI6svD_BwE
REAN, which is a division of Neutrik, also makes a cheap switch plug; www.fullcompass.com/prod/234454-neutrik-nys224s-1-4-ts-rean-cable-connector
Lastly, (and I say this hesitantly b/c this is REALcrap) Guitar Fetish makes a cheap Auto-Switching Cord: www.guitarfetish.com/20-ft-Auto-Switching-Guitar-Cable-Noiseless-Anodized-ends-Brass-Tip_p_1309.html
Do not, repeat DO NOT let me catch anyone using this cable at a gig. The guitar Police will come get you!
"A gold-plated plug is only useful if it's inserted into a jack that has gold-plated contacts inside, otherwise, there are no benefits"
Is there a guitar input jack that has gold plated contacts??
@@AaronAaronAaron Sure....
www.amplifiedparts.com/products/14-jack-switchcraft-mono-open-circuit-gold-plated
If you just want the ground plated; www.amazon.com/Guitar-Output-Jack-plated-Switchcraft/dp/B081SBV97N/ref=sr_1_77?crid=UHL1VZBKEWD5&dchild=1&keywords=switchcraft+1%2F4+jack+guitar&qid=1602565597&sprefix=switchcr%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-77
And this really cool jack; www.amazon.com/Pure-Tone-Multi-Contact-Output/dp/B079QYRRT1/ref=sr_1_7?crid=UHL1VZBKEWD5&dchild=1&keywords=switchcraft+1%2F4+jack+guitar&qid=1602565730&sprefix=switchcr%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-7
Switch craft also makes one with just a gold tip contact, but you'll need to look for it.
@@guitartec man that puretone multi contact is nuts
@@AaronAaronAaron Technically, it's the best multi jack on the market, meaning it can not only be used passively, but also it can turn on active circuitry as well. However, I've had seasoned players ask me to remove them for a simplier Switchcraft jack.
@@guitartec any particular reason why they want the switch back?
5:16. Bad soldering technique. Heat the wire, wait then apply solder from the spool to the hot wire above the gun. It'll soak up solder like a sponge.
It's really subjective. As long as you get nicely flowed solder onto your wire with no cold spots it doesn't really matter.
@@stewartross13 It's really NOT subjective. The cold joints are made by improper soldering technique - i.e, by melting the solder and the flux on the iron tip, before it touches the element you want to solder.
I have 4 of platinum .. no way I'd use any crappy Chinese made cable for my top of the line music instruments and electronics.
Why the best cable? The best will outlast all the inferior junk. Also the best cable is noiseless, an important factor in musical instruments. Me, I would have two noiseless jacks on my leads then I would not have to look for the right one.
Why not leave it to a professional to demonstrate how to wire a silent plug. Too may errors or lack of detail her.
I'm sorry to say but too many soldering mistakes. better to buy the cable than to make it this way.
if you want a bad guitar cable. watch how its done so badly. this not the one to learn from
Or just buy a Mogami or PRS cable if you're lazy and don't care.
I mean for 9$ it’s a waste of time this video...