This video is legitimate. So many videos on UA-cam leave out the steps about priming the muntins and back-bedding the sash, and painting the new glazing when it’s skinned over. You absolutely need to do those steps to make it last. The bit about the bent putty knife is legit too, it’s the way to go. Though Dap never worked well for me. I have had great results with Crawfords Putty and it’s ready to paint in a week. Sarco is a preference too.
Your Right, Thanks. I plan to delve into priming and painting in a future video. I only use oil base to prime; which allows me to hasten everything along.
@@brianmanne7493 I’ve heard linseed oil is a good primer for under the putty but I’ve never tried it. I’ll have to next time. I’ve used oil primer with good results but you’re absolutely right, you don’t want old thirsty wood sucking the oil out of the new putty!
I might have touted the S--I glazing. I met Andy, the owner of that concern at a trade symposium. He impressed me as a smirking insolent schmuck that was bottle fed as a baby; But I’m not always right in summing up diddybopps. Thanks for your interest!
Interesting video, I enjoyed it, but FYI wavy glass is wavy because that's how it was made, not because of it moving while in place. Glass is a non-crystaline amorphous solid, not a liquid as is often thought and it doesn't move when installed. It's possible to buy new versions of wavy glass that is manufactured the same process what was used to manufacture the original glass. There are several glass distributor companies in North America who import restoration glass for use in restoring old windows.
Hi Brian. Stumbled across your video as I prepare to replace the glass in my sash windows in my little 1860s cottage in South Australia. I'm wondering what technique you use when measuring for the new glass? I could match the glass that comes out, but who knows how accurate that is. Cheers
Yes. That’s what I do, and it works well. You’ve got to be patient and careful because if you keep the heat in one spot for too long, the glass can crack. Even on the most stubborn old windows, once part of the putty softens, it all starts to loosen and it comes off easily. I use the heat gun on high, keep it at least 6 inches away from the glass and quickly run it from one end to the other.
Dap 33 was never an ideal putty to reglaze wood sash windows because it takes to long to skin over so it can be painted. At the glass shop I worked at in the 50's - 70's we used tan color linseed oil putty which a different & much faster to apply. Woodsash window manufacturers never back bedded the sash with putty only puttied the face. By him back bedding the glass with putty actually does a better job but not necessary. Interesting to watch his technique. I am retired after being in the glass industry for 60 years.
Thanks, I would use another product if it was readily available. Since I only use oil base paint, it’s not so bad to wait 10 days. I bet you were a lot faster with the putty knife than me.
It's nice to see a master at work. Thanks for the helpful video and sharing your techniques!
You couldn’t described better , you are totally right
Never heard of whiting powder. Had to look it up
Great technique. Will copy exactly to replace my few broken window panes.
I bought a house from 1928... Hopefully it's as easy as you make it seem 😁 Great video!
Excellent !! Thank you for sharing the info and your time
What a great way to restore and reawaken windows. You are an amazing woodworker Brian.
exceptional production
Great Job....Thank you sharing your knowledge!!! Cheers
I restore wood windows in Connecticut using linseed oil paint. Thanks for posting the video, it was interesting to see your methods.
This video is legitimate. So many videos on UA-cam leave out the steps about priming the muntins and back-bedding the sash, and painting the new glazing when it’s skinned over. You absolutely need to do those steps to make it last. The bit about the bent putty knife is legit too, it’s the way to go. Though Dap never worked well for me. I have had great results with Crawfords Putty and it’s ready to paint in a week. Sarco is a preference too.
Your Right, Thanks. I plan to delve into priming and painting in a future video. I only use oil base to prime; which allows me to hasten everything along.
@@brianmanne7493 I’ve heard linseed oil is a good primer for under the putty but I’ve never tried it. I’ll have to next time. I’ve used oil primer with good results but you’re absolutely right, you don’t want old thirsty wood sucking the oil out of the new putty!
I might have touted the
S--I glazing. I met Andy, the owner of that concern at a trade symposium. He impressed me as a smirking insolent schmuck that was bottle fed as a baby; But I’m not always right in summing up diddybopps. Thanks for your interest!
Restoring some sashes and found your video really helpful. Thank you
THANK YOU!
Thank you! Excellent technique for glazing.
Interesting video, I enjoyed it, but FYI wavy glass is wavy because that's how it was made, not because of it moving while in place. Glass is a non-crystaline amorphous solid, not a liquid as is often thought and it doesn't move when installed.
It's possible to buy new versions of wavy glass that is manufactured the same process what was used to manufacture the original glass. There are several glass distributor companies in North America who import restoration glass for use in restoring old windows.
Hi Brian. Stumbled across your video as I prepare to replace the glass in my sash windows in my little 1860s cottage in South Australia. I'm wondering what technique you use when measuring for the new glass? I could match the glass that comes out, but who knows how accurate that is. Cheers
Thanks for your interest mate! I measure the glass bed/ pocket and cut the replacement piece 1/16 an inch under those dimensions. Most always fits.
Thanks for your interest!
Could a heat gun be used to remove the old glazing?
Yes. That’s what I do, and it works well. You’ve got to be patient and careful because if you keep the heat in one spot for too long, the glass can crack. Even on the most stubborn old windows, once part of the putty softens, it all starts to loosen and it comes off easily. I use the heat gun on high, keep it at least 6 inches away from the glass and quickly run it from one end to the other.
You make it look so easy!
It is easy to accomplish
Nice work!!
Dap 33 was never an ideal putty to reglaze wood sash windows because it takes to long to skin over so it can be painted. At the glass shop I worked at in the 50's - 70's we used tan color linseed oil putty which a different & much faster to apply. Woodsash window manufacturers never back bedded the sash with putty only puttied the face. By him back bedding the glass with putty actually does a better job but not necessary. Interesting to watch his technique. I am retired after being in the glass industry for 60 years.
Thanks, I would use another product if it was readily available. Since I only use oil base paint, it’s not so bad to wait 10 days. I bet you were a lot faster with the putty knife than me.
To replace the broken. It's like the bridge over Kwai
I could do without the music overlay.
Thank you!!