If you are interested in the tools used in this video: www.thesmallworkshop.com/my-tools If you'd like to support this channel: www.patreon.com/TheSmallWorkshop
Nice video. No crappy music. No meaningless, boring 5 minute selfie prologue. Fixed mount camera and not nausea inducing POV. I think I"ll give it a try and make a set.
Reminded me of my Mechanical Engineer Father's shop when I was young and both of your single minded resolve to accomplish a project. Working with your hands is also a good witness to your children. They will never forget the projects Dad accomplished with his hands...
I hate that I didn’t have the knowledge I’ve picked up over the last five years from folks like this on UA-cam when i was young and had the energy. Now I’m too old and don’t have it. But i get a lot of entertainment watching gifted and talented young folk at their best. Thank you sir. Excellent work. Excellent video. And thanks for no music and the wonderful quietness while giving us your videos. 👍👍👍
As a kid 8-9, my father decided to teach me the mechanics of pulleys and rope...multipliers is what he called them and more than 50 yrs later I still play with them...thanks!
You are like a cross between McGiver and Michelangelo and DaVinci. Love your ingenuity and artistic ability. Keep it up you are an inspiration for me. Thank you.
Enjoyed your video. I too HAD several wood bits, from the family of Augers as yours, who fought me at every turn. Eventually we couldn't even look at each other until one day Grinder offered a peace agreement. In return for the Augers letting chips pass freely I would stop the name calling and provide flute extensions up each of their shanks. After Grinder did her magic we've been working together regularly. Peace has been restored.
I love block and tackle systems. Many times, they work better than hydraulic or electrical systems. They are simpler, easier, less expensive and much, much smarter. Thanks for the video.
A point from an old middle age farmer and who has a bunch of these, beautiful work, keep your radius in the pulley just a pinch bigger then your rope diameter, to large and it flattens the rope as it rounds the pulley working your rope. ie: 1/2 diameter rope no more then 1/32-1/16 bigger diameter grooves. For play it's perfect.
On a boat it is called a "handy billy" and it is great for lifting a heavy out board motor from the dingy to the motor bracket, Beautiful work nicely done. Thanks for posting and BTY that ain't no "Small Workshop" it is a beautifully complete one.
Very impressive design and manufacturing process. I use a similar layout with cheap cast iron pulleys to haul many loads per week at my 2-storey house, from laundry to rubbish, bricks and sand, and large awkward shaped objects such as pot plant stands. Everyone who has to climb stairs daily will _love_ your ideas with this model, which will be very suitable for daily use, and especially where alternate pulleys are unavailable. The only problem I've had in 7 years has been the tendancy of the ropes to twist (rotate) about each other and bind tightly together especially under *heavy load* conditions such as bricks. Lighter loads don't cause this to happen. I've tried using sisal rope and different thicknesses of plastic filament rope, but all tend to do this, due to the great height involved, and the residual tension introduced by the rope manufacturing process. Older ropes and shorter lengths are less likely to -get twisted- do the twist.
Not just an amazing job making an outstanding product, but that was the BEST UA-cam Video quality I've ever seen anyone take the time to do. EXCELLENT All Around Video, content and quality.
This is an excellent teaching video. You showed such detail that for a person like me who needs to see what is going on I feel I could understand your process. The use of the multiple tools was great. At the end, understand you are using a step ladder or folding ladder as a brace.
Fun to watch, so graceful and efficient. One suggestion: put a thin washer on each side of the pulley wheel, and you'll eliminate friction between the wheel and the casing. It could be a noncorrosive metal or hard plastic.
I’ve been trying to figure out a way to elevate my 75lb electric fat tire Ebike to work on it. You’ve inspired me to create this! Nice work and super presentation! 🙏🏼
We would often find an antique block and tackle set in auction box lots of tools. It was amazing to see the old wood come back to life with a little elbow grease. Occasionally, we would get a set that was so well made and in such great condition we wanted to hang them inside our log cabin for display. I hope you realise that you have created the first in a series of family heirlooms if you continue to enlarge the collection of made by hand custom block and tackle sets. BRAVO on your fine workmanship.
Well done. Great design and approach to fabricating in a home shop. Minimum wasted materials and no wasted effort. And the same with the video, no wasted time. Thanks, I enjoyed it.
Beautiful work. My take on weight ratings is that if the pulley system is to be used by hand you're limited by your own body weight. That's if you're strong enough to hold that much. So if you weigh 100 kg, you can only handle 400 kg with a 4:1 reduction. The rope has four lines, making it good for a full metric ton. The only question is the strength rating of the other components. I like the bolt centering method. I should have thought of that. The only thing I would change would be washers on each side of each pulley wheel to reduce side friction and to provide space to add oil.
Beautiful. Just beautiful. I have never seen such skill at work. The choice of materials and awesome collection of tools and machines you have. And that folks is how it is done... Like the video as well nice of you to not talk and to edit out the redundancy. My ADHD thanks you lol. Well done sir.
agree, i think the added charm of his videos is that the pure sounds of his workshop are kept intact. the sounds are so distinct and have their own personality, i sometimes just play the video to hear them in the background :)
Hahahaha Thank you Dale! Not many even think about us with OCD, OR ADHD, OR turettes. Not that I am looking for any special treatment or anything I just think it is funny that you mentioned it and that I understood what you were talking about! :D
I was about to build my own double 4 sheave block and tackle for pulling logs out. Now I know how I will do it. I like the bushing around the axle for strength and wear resistance. and the ease of the metal strap system so no metal bending is needed.
Glad you found it useful! Just last week I've tested it under heavy load and it worked like a charm. It was used to lift 30 huge beams two stories up. The beams were really heavy, four guys were barely able to move them around the site, yet just one guy was pulling the rope while lifting them then five other guys were struggling to put them into position. After all that load plus 20 pallets of bricks the pulley shows almost no wear, just the wooden wheels got a bit dirty in the grooves.
@@TheSmallWorkshop I'm in the midst of building my workshop now. Well, not right now, as the weather is not my friend in da Yoop. I had first designed it 20x20. I have a mill and I extended it to cut 22' logs, so I then decided to build the shop 22x32. After laying out the floor joists, I decided that wasn't big enough. Now I've got the floor joists all laid out and built at 22'x40', monitor barn style. When I set the beams and started building walls, I figured I had better build a second story in the middle of it at 16'x22', and then it snowed...and snowed. This spring when I get back to it I'm going to finish it at these final dimensions, but I've also left myself the ability to easily expand it to 40'x infinity. hahaha It doesn't matter how big a shop starts out or finishes, it's never big enough. Good thing I've got acres of forest to make my own lumber, or this thing would cost me a fortune! p.s. Great job on the block and tackle. I'll be making these, for sure.
Loadzofhobbies He really did! I guess there are some people out there who have such little talent themselves, they can't appreciate the artistic novelty of making something with your own hands.
Nice work! Reminds me of a project my dad and I worked on. He made wooden block and tackles and mounted them to a large sheave that he also made for a lamp base. They turned out to be very good looking table lamps. It was a lot of fun for both of us!
Here’s a constructive note from a friend with 40 years of experience as a machinist , it appeared that you used your calipers to scribe some lines , never use calipers or other precision instruments for a wrench or as a marking tool use them & other measuring tools only for measuring , otherwise excellent craftsmanship & video , may God Bless
Great video! Pulleys are an ancient tool and probably the first thing to be optimized for mass assembly. keeping that in mind, your design comes pretty close to the real deal. If you make another one, you need a system of spacers that allows you to tighten the bolts without squeezing the sheaves. And try to make the sheaves out of a slippery, hard-wearing plastic like Delrin. It will make for far less friction. Regarding the loads: with synthetics rope strength per diameter has gone up so much, that you mostly select rope for different criteria than breaking load. With synthetics rope, the rope typically far exceeds the correctly sized blocks in breaking strength. For hauling by hand, rope that's about 12 to 15mm diameter is far more comfortable to grip, which means you can pull with more force comfortably. Always select the biggest diameter that you can get away with. Also sheaves for anything but exotic cored rope should have a slightly elliptical profile, with the radius at the middle only slightly larger than the radius of the rope. In your case, that works out well. the sheaves you made are oversized for the rope you bought. Go to the hardware store and find the largest diameter rope that just fits easily on your sheaves. It will be far easier to grip. You might have made the groove to deep, if that's the case and the rope binds on the shoulders of the sheave, turn down the outer diameter a bit and make the groove a bit more elliptical. Then reeve the pulley in a right angle reeving. slideplayer.com/slide/9260274/27/images/19/Reeving+methods.jpg. It will prevent the pulley from twisting and give you more hauling height and less friction.
WOW! Thank you very much for your advice! I used this rope because I already had it, but I turned the pulleys so they would accept larger diameters without rubbing. But when I went to the hardware store, man, rope prices grow exponential with diameter. This rope I used (8 mm) is 3 bucks, the next one (10 mm) costs 10 bucks and the next one costs 25 bucks and so on. For now the 8 mm one works fine, I've used it a lot this weekend and for the tools I use it it works fine. But I am going to give the right angle reeving a try, I had no idea that was a possibility, and it looks more suited for the long height I use it for. Thanks!
B and t got my 4x4 out of a spot that was very bad. 3 of them tied to trees and it eased right out. I'm Sold on them especially when it got daylight and I realized I was headed for a SWAMP
Very well done I am a retired Woodworker and although i saw you using the correct saw and blade it still freaks me out yo watch someone cutting Steel on a Mitre box because over the years ive seen too many idiots on job sites trying to do the same with a Wood Blade and Saw ? now for installing Custom Millwork we often used a mitre saw to cut our Aluminum angle with the correct blades and speed of course and ive seen some of those off cuts taking off like a rocket ship out of the saw
Over the years you have seen too many idiots on job sites trying to do the same with a Wood Blade and Saw ? Seriously ? Must say , I`ve never encountered anyone that stupid in 45 years on tools.
This guy is definitely skilled, that's good craftsmanship! But I wouldn't want a block and tackle made of wood. I want steel for all of the parts! Again not dissing your work, good video. I just know what I would use them for, and if I'm going to be under the thing I want steel, and steel cables. Nice work!
These are a nice set of blocks. You could reduce friction a lot if you just used ball bearings in place of the steel sleeves you used for the sheaves. They are not expensive.
I've had a love-hate relationship with Forstner bitts for years. Nothing drills a straighter, more precise hole, but they are the very devil to keep clear of chips and overheat far too easily.
I feel your pain. I am stuck in a first floor flat, one bedroom. It is soul destroying to have to load out everything to the car, outpack at a friends garage, do an hour doing, in pack so the garage is clear for the next 'thing' then haul the lot back upstairs to my flat.
I totally understand what you say, I used to live in a small flat too and used my first table saw on the living floor. I even welded on the coffee table, which ruined it of course, to my wife's delight. That's why I'm happy in my broom closet workshop, it's small, but it's something! I might run out of air every fifteen minutes or so, but I can make stuff!
@@kclevitt1 This expression probably came from "Alice in Worderland", to refer to a situation where one thing leads to another and the end is nothing you could've guessed. It's like a journey that takes you somewhere crazy or very different than the start point. Or maybe rabbit holes are actually very deep in real life and inspired Alice's movie first....dunno
@@flavio5046 I'm pretty sure he knows the expression, he's referring to the fact that the original post used the wrong version of hole (whole), hence the "D" in English.
Nice job. I'm intrigued by the set-up you have for your router. Can you pleas show (or explain) how the router is attached to the chunk of wood. Cheers
It was a makeshift, on the spot improvisation. Basically the router had two knobs in the base, used for the parallel guide. I removed those knobs, which left two threaded holes. Drilled two matching holes in a piece of scrap wood, bolted it to the base in those threaded holes and clamped the wood to the edge of the workbench. And presto: how to lose a finger in three easy steps!
Thanks. The reason I asked is that I have only one router and have been trying to work out how to quickly convert it to a table top (and back again) without having to keep removing the base plate. I think this might do the trick and it doesn't look any more dangerous than a standard router table fit out ^--*
great job, what I suggest to you to use mechanical advantage, such as to attach Gibbs ascender to hold the load from your hand, also consider safety issue don't accede the weight load for the tools it self. and supporting tools such as the ladder and rope.
Just wonderful. I missed lessons along the way! I would have loved to work side-by-side with you for a few years. I can only imagine the things you have created without my subscribing.
Great project and video! Did you mention how much that block weighed? People can use a large factor of safety with a wood design. I don't think you would get a catastrophic failure with this specific item, could crack and seize but the steel would prevent it from breaking into pieces and dropping the weight - that is a good design choice here. Cheers!
I don't know exactly how much the rock weighted, but 3 large guys were struggling to get it off the truck. A year or so later I used the pulleys on a construction site to lift 25 heavy wooden beams. It was a sight to be seen, 4 guys were barely getting the beam into position under the pulley, then one guy was lifting it for 2 stories and 3 more guys were struggling with it at the top to put it in place. The guy doing the lifting was so proud, it was so funny.
Can you explain why the block and tackle doesn't tilt when being used? I'm struggling to see how different lengths of rope passing through each pulley wheel doesn't cause a tilt. Thanks!
You did a video on making plastic rod stock out of HDPE bottles not that long ago, would that be a better material for the pulleys than wood? I'd imagine friction would be less of an issue, though the manufacturing process would be quite a bit longer.
HDPE or other high density plastic would work well, but I wanted to make this project mostly out of wood, since it's easier to find by those who would want to make a similar pulley.
Behind your lathe, put a piece of wood that connects the lathe to the wall. Add a piece of rubber where it connects to the wall. That should solve the wobbly nature of rubber feet whilst maintaining the vibration dampening effect of such legs. FYI if you buy a tube of silicone, you can let it to cure inside for a few months after opening it. Once it's cured, you take it out and cut feet from it. Much better at sucking vibration than anything rubber + if you cut them at 1.2 cm thickness, for 30 kgs ratio, it will give you a pretty stiff mounting too.
Maybe build a come-along system for it too? I mean it's not that complicated. The main component is the curved star, you have an angle grinder and a belt sander, that's easy to make.
Nice works ! Rove to advantage. I'm about to design some blocks for local use. It's a good starting subject for any to guage their skills level in a combination of dissimilar materials then use these to develop understanding of mechanical advantage.
It seems like you have squeezed the wheels very tightly between the sides of your pulley. How are they going to rotate? The friction will be quite strong. Probably they don't rotate at all, and the rope just slides against the waxed grooves, generating considerable wear. Some sort of spacer between the sides would improve the design hugely. Good craftsmanship, though.
It just seems that way in the video. They are quite loose. I use it almost daily to lift heavy tools in my attic and it works great. I've also used it on a cinstructon site to lift huge beqms that 4 guys could barely move. It lifted 30 such beams, two stories up, no problem. The workers were amazed. I did not use spacers so the rope would jot get stuck between the walls and the pulley.
A washer and a ring on each side of the wheels would help a lot with friction. Having the wheels directly in touch with the plywood creates a lot of friction and makes the wheels spin harder.
You are right and I plan to add washers, just that the washers I could find at at my local hardware store were too thick. If I used them the rope might get caught between the pulley and frame. I'd have to keep looking or make them myself. But I had to finish the video, I was already working for 3 weeks on it and the pulley works well enough even without washers, and also most pulleys I've seen for sale don't use washers either.
If you are interested in the tools used in this video: www.thesmallworkshop.com/my-tools
If you'd like to support this channel: www.patreon.com/TheSmallWorkshop
Moteur v8 5.0 ho
Did you take down your " My - tools link" it says it can not be found ?
Km3672
@@nicolebrousseau5958 .
@@kiyochimizuki9356 *: uupop0379
Nice video. No crappy music. No meaningless, boring 5 minute selfie prologue. Fixed mount camera and not nausea inducing POV. I think I"ll give it a try and make a set.
Reminded me of my Mechanical Engineer Father's shop when I was young and both of your single minded resolve to accomplish a project. Working with your hands is also a good witness to your children. They will never forget the projects Dad accomplished with his hands...
I hate that I didn’t have the knowledge I’ve picked up over the last five years from folks like this on UA-cam when i was young and had the energy. Now I’m too old and don’t have it. But i get a lot of entertainment watching gifted and talented young folk at their best. Thank you sir. Excellent work. Excellent video. And thanks for no music and the wonderful quietness while giving us your videos. 👍👍👍
As a kid
8-9, my father decided to teach me the mechanics of pulleys and rope...multipliers is what he called them and more than 50 yrs later I still play with them...thanks!
You are like a cross between McGiver and Michelangelo and DaVinci. Love your ingenuity and artistic ability. Keep it up you are an inspiration for me. Thank you.
Enjoyed your video. I too HAD several wood bits, from the family of Augers as yours, who fought me at every turn. Eventually we couldn't even look at each other until one day Grinder offered a peace agreement. In return for the Augers letting chips pass freely I would stop the name calling and provide flute extensions up each of their shanks. After Grinder did her magic we've been working together regularly. Peace has been restored.
I love block and tackle systems. Many times, they work better than hydraulic or electrical systems. They are simpler, easier, less expensive and much, much smarter. Thanks for the video.
Great idea for drilling a hole in the center of a bolt. Nice build as usual. Thanks for posting.
Thanks, I was pleased with it myself and included it in the video, hoping someone would find it useful.
I definitely found it useful.
Me too
Agreed that was a smashing trick I've not seen before. Thanks for that little life changer!
Did you actually need the hole in the end of the bolt or was it done to demonstrate the technique?
A point from an old middle age farmer and who has a bunch of these, beautiful work, keep your radius in the pulley just a pinch bigger then your rope diameter, to large and it flattens the rope as it rounds the pulley working your rope. ie: 1/2 diameter rope no more then 1/32-1/16 bigger diameter grooves. For play it's perfect.
Good advice. I was thinking that a big hole saw would be a bit faster beginning. Lacking a lathe, I'll try my drillpress.
@@garychandler4296 I made a lathe out of an old router, if that gives you any ideas
@@josephdomshy4068 love to see those plans.
On a boat it is called a "handy billy" and it is great for lifting a heavy out board motor from the dingy to the motor bracket, Beautiful work nicely done. Thanks for posting and BTY that ain't no "Small Workshop" it is a beautifully complete one.
nothing better to wake up to than An alert for a new small workshop video great Job!!!
Thank you Alonzo!
Very impressive design and manufacturing process. I use a similar layout with cheap cast iron pulleys to haul many loads per week at my 2-storey house, from laundry to rubbish, bricks and sand, and large awkward shaped objects such as pot plant stands. Everyone who has to climb stairs daily will _love_ your ideas with this model, which will be very suitable for daily use, and especially where alternate pulleys are unavailable.
The only problem I've had in 7 years has been the tendancy of the ropes to twist (rotate) about each other and bind tightly together especially under *heavy load* conditions such as bricks. Lighter loads don't cause this to happen. I've tried using sisal rope and different thicknesses of plastic filament rope, but all tend to do this, due to the great height involved, and the residual tension introduced by the rope manufacturing process. Older ropes and shorter lengths are less likely to -get twisted- do the twist.
Not just an amazing job making an outstanding product, but that was the BEST UA-cam Video quality I've ever seen anyone take the time to do. EXCELLENT All Around Video, content and quality.
This is an excellent teaching video. You showed such detail that for a person like me who needs to see what is going on I feel I could understand your process. The use of the multiple tools was great. At the end, understand you are using a step ladder or folding ladder as a brace.
I'm only just now understanding leverage and the mechanical advantage concept, but building your own block and tackle, is amazing.
Fun to watch, so graceful and efficient. One suggestion: put a thin washer on each side of the pulley wheel, and you'll eliminate friction between the wheel and the casing. It could be a noncorrosive metal or hard plastic.
Mad shop skills and a big thumbs up for mad video editing skills which are much appreciated.
Very well done. What you made is a set of double sheeve blocks. The way you have them rigged is a gun tackle lift. Very well done indeed.
I’ve been trying to figure out a way to elevate my 75lb electric fat tire Ebike to work on it. You’ve inspired me to create this! Nice work and super presentation! 🙏🏼
We would often find an antique block and tackle set in auction box lots of tools. It was amazing to see the old wood come back to life with a little elbow grease. Occasionally, we would get a set that was so well made and in such great condition we wanted to hang them inside our log cabin for display. I hope you realise that you have created the first in a series of family heirlooms if you continue to enlarge the collection of made by hand custom block and tackle sets. BRAVO on your fine workmanship.
NewHampshire Jack Calm the fuck down
@@kfossa344 LOL You just ruined poor Jack's heirloom dreams.
Well done. Great design and approach to fabricating in a home shop. Minimum wasted materials and no wasted effort. And the same with the video, no wasted time. Thanks, I enjoyed it.
Thank you. I wanted to see block and tackle system of pulley after studying about it in class.
It's nice to see him using that vintage marking knife he made, feels like a crossover
Beautiful work. My take on weight ratings is that if the pulley system is to be used by hand you're limited by your own body weight. That's if you're strong enough to hold that much. So if you weigh 100 kg, you can only handle 400 kg with a 4:1 reduction. The rope has four lines, making it good for a full metric ton. The only question is the strength rating of the other components.
I like the bolt centering method. I should have thought of that.
The only thing I would change would be washers on each side of each pulley wheel to reduce side friction and to provide space to add oil.
Beautiful. Just beautiful. I have never seen such skill at work. The choice of materials and awesome collection of tools and machines you have. And that folks is how it is done... Like the video as well nice of you to not talk and to edit out the redundancy. My ADHD thanks you lol. Well done sir.
agree, i think the added charm of his videos is that the pure sounds of his workshop are kept intact. the sounds are so distinct and have their own personality, i sometimes just play the video to hear them in the background :)
Hahahaha Thank you Dale! Not many even think about us with OCD, OR ADHD, OR turettes. Not that I am looking for any special treatment or anything I just think it is funny that you mentioned it and that I understood what you were talking about! :D
This was unbelievably satisfying to watch !! I'm off to the shed for a bit !
I just randomly stumbled across this video.. That was vastly more entertaining than I was expecting...
I was about to build my own double 4 sheave block and tackle for pulling logs out. Now I know how I will do it. I like the bushing around the axle for strength and wear resistance. and the ease of the metal strap system so no metal bending is needed.
Glad you found it useful! Just last week I've tested it under heavy load and it worked like a charm. It was used to lift 30 huge beams two stories up. The beams were really heavy, four guys were barely able to move them around the site, yet just one guy was pulling the rope while lifting them then five other guys were struggling to put them into position. After all that load plus 20 pallets of bricks the pulley shows almost no wear, just the wooden wheels got a bit dirty in the grooves.
Fun watching this workshop gradually become less small :)
Thanks! The tool number is growing, but the space seems smaller than ever! :)
Yes, I am a kid that loves these little inventions there really cool to watch him do it
@@JesusAlvarez-gw7uy
That makes you more of an adult than a "kid", Keep exploring!
@@TheSmallWorkshop I'm in the midst of building my workshop now. Well, not right now, as the weather is not my friend in da Yoop. I had first designed it 20x20. I have a mill and I extended it to cut 22' logs, so I then decided to build the shop 22x32. After laying out the floor joists, I decided that wasn't big enough. Now I've got the floor joists all laid out and built at 22'x40', monitor barn style. When I set the beams and started building walls, I figured I had better build a second story in the middle of it at 16'x22', and then it snowed...and snowed. This spring when I get back to it I'm going to finish it at these final dimensions, but I've also left myself the ability to easily expand it to 40'x infinity. hahaha It doesn't matter how big a shop starts out or finishes, it's never big enough. Good thing I've got acres of forest to make my own lumber, or this thing would cost me a fortune! p.s. Great job on the block and tackle. I'll be making these, for sure.
took a reeving class years ago, which i thoroughly enjoyed, enjoyed seeing the fabrication of the components. thank you
why on earth would anyone dislike this? did a great job.
Loadzofhobbies He really did! I guess there are some people out there who have such little talent themselves, they can't appreciate the artistic novelty of making something with your own hands.
My thoughts exactly. The people down voting this probably lack the skill set to build their own tools.
Because there was no "small"
I agree!
I agree!
I'm not a craftsman by any means but subscribed to your channel. Thoroughly enjoyed this video!
Nice work! Reminds me of a project my dad and I worked on. He made wooden block and tackles and mounted them to a large sheave that he also made for a lamp base. They turned out to be very good looking table lamps. It was a lot of fun for both of us!
Nice. And you could see how heavy the block you lifted was when putting it down made the floor shake!
Here’s a constructive note from a friend with 40 years of experience as a machinist , it appeared that you used your calipers to scribe some lines , never use calipers or other precision instruments for a wrench or as a marking tool use them & other measuring tools only for measuring , otherwise excellent craftsmanship & video , may God Bless
Excellent illustration thank you for sharing; people like you make UA-cam invaluable.
The part the rope attaches to is called the becket. Really beautiful project!
I am watching this because I need a set of pullies and this is perfect for what I need...great presentation. Thanks
Great video! Pulleys are an ancient tool and probably the first thing to be optimized for mass assembly. keeping that in mind, your design comes pretty close to the real deal. If you make another one, you need a system of spacers that allows you to tighten the bolts without squeezing the sheaves. And try to make the sheaves out of a slippery, hard-wearing plastic like Delrin. It will make for far less friction.
Regarding the loads: with synthetics rope strength per diameter has gone up so much, that you mostly select rope for different criteria than breaking load. With synthetics rope, the rope typically far exceeds the correctly sized blocks in breaking strength.
For hauling by hand, rope that's about 12 to 15mm diameter is far more comfortable to grip, which means you can pull with more force comfortably. Always select the biggest diameter that you can get away with.
Also sheaves for anything but exotic cored rope should have a slightly elliptical profile, with the radius at the middle only slightly larger than the radius of the rope.
In your case, that works out well. the sheaves you made are oversized for the rope you bought. Go to the hardware store and find the largest diameter rope that just fits easily on your sheaves. It will be far easier to grip. You might have made the groove to deep, if that's the case and the rope binds on the shoulders of the sheave, turn down the outer diameter a bit and make the groove a bit more elliptical.
Then reeve the pulley in a right angle reeving. slideplayer.com/slide/9260274/27/images/19/Reeving+methods.jpg. It will prevent the pulley from twisting and give you more hauling height and less friction.
WOW! Thank you very much for your advice! I used this rope because I already had it, but I turned the pulleys so they would accept larger diameters without rubbing. But when I went to the hardware store, man, rope prices grow exponential with diameter. This rope I used (8 mm) is 3 bucks, the next one (10 mm) costs 10 bucks and the next one costs 25 bucks and so on. For now the 8 mm one works fine, I've used it a lot this weekend and for the tools I use it it works fine.
But I am going to give the right angle reeving a try, I had no idea that was a possibility, and it looks more suited for the long height I use it for. Thanks!
Theres always a critic. Probably get one who tells me that my Theres is wrong. Well...Duh!
You know your shit and I like it 👍🏻
@@gomakeamark7459 and someone just can't let the issues go by. SAD
I really liked this both for the visual production and for the tool itself. Thanks!
That was a really clever way to drill the center of that bolt
Always appreciate the quality you put into your work.
You are awesome! Finish product looks just like the antique barn pulley I have with some my other toys at my desk at work.
Very nice set of tools and machines for an awesome workshop.
B and t got my 4x4 out of a spot that was very bad. 3 of them tied to trees and it eased right out.
I'm Sold on them especially when it got daylight and I realized I was headed for a SWAMP
If every "Small workshop" had every single conceivable tool in the world, it would be very very nice :D
Samuel Nasta Damn, I must go and buy some spanners as I have everything else.
Have some spanner’s...need a few other things!
I was looking at the laminated material and wondering how you got a quarter ton capacity. Then I saw the steel straps
Very well done I am a retired Woodworker and although i saw you using the correct saw and blade it still freaks me out yo watch someone cutting Steel on a Mitre box because over the years ive seen too many idiots on job sites trying to do the same with a Wood Blade and Saw ? now for installing Custom Millwork we often used a mitre saw to cut our Aluminum angle with the correct blades and speed of course and ive seen some of those off cuts taking off like a rocket ship out of the saw
Over the years you have seen too many idiots on job sites trying to do the same with a Wood Blade and Saw ?
Seriously ?
Must say , I`ve never encountered anyone that stupid in 45 years on tools.
This guy is definitely skilled, that's good craftsmanship! But I wouldn't want a block and tackle made of wood. I want steel for all of the parts! Again not dissing your work, good video. I just know what I would use them for, and if I'm going to be under the thing I want steel, and steel cables. Nice work!
You sir are a true craftsman I just seen your channel very impressive pulley and a nice shop God Bless
These are a nice set of blocks. You could reduce friction a lot if you just used ball bearings in place of the steel sleeves you used for the sheaves. They are not expensive.
Fantastic video!
Thank you Giaco!
Wtf its giaco
I've had a love-hate relationship with Forstner bitts for years. Nothing drills a straighter, more precise hole, but they are the very devil to keep clear of chips and overheat far too easily.
I feel your pain. I am stuck in a first floor flat, one bedroom. It is soul destroying to have to load out everything to the car, outpack at a friends garage, do an hour doing, in pack so the garage is clear for the next 'thing' then haul the lot back upstairs to my flat.
I totally understand what you say, I used to live in a small flat too and used my first table saw on the living floor. I even welded on the coffee table, which ruined it of course, to my wife's delight. That's why I'm happy in my broom closet workshop, it's small, but it's something! I might run out of air every fifteen minutes or so, but I can make stuff!
Just had a quick look at your web site there and when I have more time I will be back. Cheers..
I was researching microphones and somehow ended up in a rabbit whole of these awesome videos.
A rabbit 'whole'? Shop class- A
English- D-
@@kclevitt1 This expression probably came from "Alice in Worderland", to refer to a situation where one thing leads to another and the end is nothing you could've guessed. It's like a journey that takes you somewhere crazy or very different than the start point.
Or maybe rabbit holes are actually very deep in real life and inspired Alice's movie first....dunno
@@flavio5046 I'm pretty sure he knows the expression, he's referring to the fact that the original post used the wrong version of hole (whole), hence the "D" in English.
I like the "scratch calipers" at 9:09. This is the first time I've seen them.
Very good work flow systems!! Excellent design and fabrication!! Thanks !! Liked!!
Nice job.
I'm intrigued by the set-up you have for your router. Can you pleas show (or explain) how the router is attached to the chunk of wood.
Cheers
Mick S would also like to see this setup
It was a makeshift, on the spot improvisation. Basically the router had two knobs in the base, used for the parallel guide. I removed those knobs, which left two threaded holes. Drilled two matching holes in a piece of scrap wood, bolted it to the base in those threaded holes and clamped the wood to the edge of the workbench. And presto: how to lose a finger in three easy steps!
The Small Workshop Haha, I've seen much worse.
Thanks.
The reason I asked is that I have only one router and have been trying to work out how to quickly convert it to a table top (and back again) without having to keep removing the base plate. I think this might do the trick and it doesn't look any more dangerous than a standard router table fit out ^--*
Very slick way to make your own mandrel! Great job!
great job, what I suggest to you to use mechanical advantage, such as to attach Gibbs ascender to hold the load from your hand, also consider safety issue don't accede the weight load for the tools it self. and supporting tools such as the ladder and rope.
Great video. No talking, just do it. I enjoyed that. And i even learned a few things.
Just wonderful. I missed lessons along the way! I would have loved to work side-by-side with you for a few years. I can only imagine the things you have created without my subscribing.
great vodeo editing and filming. great project and a craftsman at that.
... vids like this is why i luv youtube... ty ;)
Beautifully designed final product and enjoyable to watch!
Another well done project. Fantastic job friend.
Felicitaciones. Talvez me podría dar las medidas para fabricar este polipasto?
Great project and video! Did you mention how much that block weighed? People can use a large factor of safety with a wood design. I don't think you would get a catastrophic failure with this specific item, could crack and seize but the steel would prevent it from breaking into pieces and dropping the weight - that is a good design choice here. Cheers!
I don't know exactly how much the rock weighted, but 3 large guys were struggling to get it off the truck.
A year or so later I used the pulleys on a construction site to lift 25 heavy wooden beams. It was a sight to be seen, 4 guys were barely getting the beam into position under the pulley, then one guy was lifting it for 2 stories and 3 more guys were struggling with it at the top to put it in place. The guy doing the lifting was so proud, it was so funny.
Could you please edit and show the top and how it was mounted to the ladder and also how you threaded the rope?
beautiful work ... although some may call it a rig job ))) FROM VIDEO TO CAPTIONS TO QUALITY TO ECT.... GREAT JOB! ... thank you for sharing!
Can you explain why the block and tackle doesn't tilt when being used? I'm struggling to see how different lengths of rope passing through each pulley wheel doesn't cause a tilt. Thanks!
Très belles poulies , mais à quoi sert la 2éme et pourquoi cette patte métallique percée à son extrémité ?
you have brought new machines! and also a very nice video
Thanks for noticing! Yes, I have some new tools, and also some I've had for a while but rarely used on video.
Nice job. Wish I had a shop to do all that stuff in but for now watching will have to do!
I think i lack the skill to ever make one of these but the how to video was very enjoyable to watch - almost therapeutic in a ways
Don't you just hate folks who have an overabundance of talent and creativity? Nice work, however, very nice!
How can we know the pieces size and the distance between one screw and the other one or between one hole to the other one? Thank you
Very good woodwork. Greetings from Brazil.
You did a video on making plastic rod stock out of HDPE bottles not that long ago, would that be a better material for the pulleys than wood? I'd imagine friction would be less of an issue, though the manufacturing process would be quite a bit longer.
HDPE or other high density plastic would work well, but I wanted to make this project mostly out of wood, since it's easier to find by those who would want to make a similar pulley.
Behind your lathe, put a piece of wood that connects the lathe to the wall. Add a piece of rubber where it connects to the wall. That should solve the wobbly nature of rubber feet whilst maintaining the vibration dampening effect of such legs. FYI if you buy a tube of silicone, you can let it to cure inside for a few months after opening it. Once it's cured, you take it out and cut feet from it. Much better at sucking vibration than anything rubber + if you cut them at 1.2 cm thickness, for 30 kgs ratio, it will give you a pretty stiff mounting too.
Maybe build a come-along system for it too? I mean it's not that complicated. The main component is the curved star, you have an angle grinder and a belt sander, that's easy to make.
Yea, I've thought about that, was thinking of using an old, small diameter circular saw blade for the star thingie. And thanks for the rubber tips.
I cut open a old tube of silicone that hardened up & I thought to myself, 'I should be able to use this for something' . :)
+VerifyVeracity Heh, I'll never toss one out again!
Same, that's a great tip.
Very well done Sir! Greetings from Southport UK.
Very cool. Functional and elegant.
have you ever heard of coolant for your drill bits ??--how many do you burn up ??
Nice works ! Rove to advantage. I'm about to design some blocks for local use. It's a good starting subject for any to guage their skills level in a combination of dissimilar materials then use these to develop understanding of mechanical advantage.
but how do you place the ropes? I don't get it how you pull 1 rope but there are like 4 ones at the final pulley. Beautiful video btw
You are wonderful .. but did not show us how to work the rope and how to contact the wheel .. With thanks.
@ 11:0:2 whats that longer steel strap for? Good video with some good tips on making a B&T, thanks for sharing!!
can you show how you routed the rope through each pulley?
Ok, that was pretty darn cool. Out of the ordinary.
It seems like you have squeezed the wheels very tightly between the sides of your pulley. How are they going to rotate? The friction will be quite strong. Probably they don't rotate at all, and the rope just slides against the waxed grooves, generating considerable wear. Some sort of spacer between the sides would improve the design hugely.
Good craftsmanship, though.
It just seems that way in the video. They are quite loose. I use it almost daily to lift heavy tools in my attic and it works great. I've also used it on a cinstructon site to lift huge beqms that 4 guys could barely move. It lifted 30 such beams, two stories up, no problem. The workers were amazed. I did not use spacers so the rope would jot get stuck between the walls and the pulley.
Ok then.
Enjoyed your knowledge,skill, and talent . Great vid !
can you use and auger bit or a paddle bit for drilling the hole?
What is the thing he puts the wood in and spins the wood fast to carve it
Çok profesyonelce yapılmış her atölyeye lazım bir tane 👍
No friction issues with the linner pulley walls? I was thinkin maybe some washers in between the pulley wheels and the side plates. Thoughts??
First time viewer, now a subscriber. Cool video and a very useful one to boot.
Thanks.
Does the sheave spin in the casing or does the rope just slide over it?
Enjoyed watching plus nice block and tackle and would enjoy owning them just for looks
You had special bolts that stopped it from binding the wheels......or did you turn those to have a base for the nut?.....Great Job btw.......z
A washer and a ring on each side of the wheels would help a lot with friction. Having the wheels directly in touch with the plywood creates a lot of friction and makes the wheels spin harder.
You are right and I plan to add washers, just that the washers I could find at at my local hardware store were too thick. If I used them the rope might get caught between the pulley and frame. I'd have to keep looking or make them myself. But I had to finish the video, I was already working for 3 weeks on it and the pulley works well enough even without washers, and also most pulleys I've seen for sale don't use washers either.
The commercial ones, I think use ball bearings. Anyway, great work!
Superbly filmed and edited.