Covering myself in Lanogurd took years off me. I was 55 when I crawled under the landrover. I looked like I was 23 when I crawled out 20 minutes later.
@@Jason-cl8hk No word of a lie. I now have a 21-year-old girlfriend and a full head of hair. Admittedly I smell like a sheep and get chased by the local collies, but I'm not complaining!
Been using Lanoguard (or Lamotex) for about 20 years on my Landrovers. Our 2006 Freelander was done when we bought it new and recoated every couple of years and for a 16 year old vehicle is fairly rust free. I did our 2016 VW Amarok new when we bought it and 6 years on still looks like new underneath. I first found out about it from the farming community as the agricultural industry have been using it for years. It's also used a lot in Australia in the 4 x 4 community.
I used dinitrol first then lanoguard over that. Easy to apply. Pleased with the results. Found it easier to put the spray tub in warm water before use, and put the grease tub in hotter water. Very impressed with the grease. With hot water soaking before, it just paints on, but cools to a very solid grease.
Nick, you should definitely change the swan neck pitman arm for the much stronger Disco straight arm, and while you’re at it change the steering and torsion bars for stainless sumo bars, they’re brilliant !
Looks good! I used bilt hamber de-ox gel to remove surface rust and get the chassis back to a 'metal' colour and zinc paint to protect it with a top coat of hammerite. Worked brilliant but there was a lot of prep involved, worth it though.
I think a de cat and straight through mid pipe would be fantastic for your car and you would love it. That’s what I have on mine and it still sounds standard when driving about slowly but put your foot down and there is a lovely bark followed by that 5 cylinder sweetness after. On the motorway it’s not boomy either. It only cost about £100 to do.
Thanks for a great review. With a 15 year old Alfa Brera and a 19 year old VW T5 camper to look after, I'll definitely be investing in some of this stuff.
I use a stuff called Corroless. It’s being used more and more on landrovers but I swear by it. It’s a paint used on oil rigs to prevent corrosion from sea water etc. You coat elverything in this rust inhibiting primer and then top coat it with its top coat. I don’t tent to bother with the branded topcoat and I just use hammerite or something. The primer is what does the work. It stops rust but also treats any rust present. It definitely works and has a work life of 14years. The issues with it is it takes a lot of prep, you’ve got to get as much stuff back to bear metal as possible like any paint. You can’t paint it onto flaky material or dirt. But it sprays on easy and looks fab
I think lanoguard is brilliant stuff, I’ve used all sorts of different products over the years on various land rovers I’ve had and this is by far the easiest and least messy of them all, and seems to bead water for the longest too, only thing is I wish they did a black version, it would just smarten it up better I think, as you can still see ugly surface rust, when I applied it for the second time after 12 months, I gave a mist coat of dinitrol first a week before the lanoguard to smarten the chassis up, only issue I had was with the trigger gun, when I came to use it a year on the gun had failed on the seals i think, it wouldn’t pump through, even tho I cleaned if thoroughly after the first time, but the product itself seems to work great, I’ll get more and use it again later in the year ready for next winter on my defender.
@@thedoctorsgarage can you not just mix a tiny amount of black waxoyl in the mix to blacken it? I might try this as now the summer is here it’s a good time to be getting on with this job
The issue with all "Modern" Defenders is the fact that there is no paint prep carried out on the chassis post welding. The "paint" that LR apply simply flakes off everywhere.. look at the underside of every LR product. See my videos for proof of this following a 100% stripdown. I Waxoyled my 2011 defender from day one and have no rust whatsoever inside the chassis. However, EVERY welded area of the chassis corroded and it spread like wildfire. After sand blasting, painting with Corroless and re treating with Waxoyl I now have a totally rust free chassis that is not a disgusting sticky mess.
Thanks for the video Doc! For future ideas how about adding a winch, roof rack and how are you set for tunes on the inside? Also, do you use any diagnostic tools such as IID or icarsoft. Generally show us how you gather your Intel for your jobs.
I have used the Lanoguard product on my SUV recently, so not enough time to see how effective it will be. Very easy to apply but the one downside is it is expensive to buy.
Why not to use all cavities Bilt Hamber Dynax S50, what is developed specially for car/vans/machinery cavities, comes in spray with application lance....much quicker application and more effective than this hand spray.
The oil leak is your rocker cover gasket Run your finger over the back of the head to make sure . Change them every 2 years they go hard and brittle then don’t seal at the back
Have you had a look at the billet door handles from Exmoor Trim? They would make a nice addition to your truck. Also how about a set of Gwyn Lewis mud shields to keep the crap off your cross member. I've fitted a set to my 110, great addition to stop corrosion.
Keep up the good work doc what you missed last time get it next. Good product mines 19 years old only done when new will steam clean in summer and lanoguard it my exhaust is like yours and needs replaceing . If done properly it needs only every few years unless useing it off road .LEAKS as mine keep eye on levels
Hi Doc Great content mate and great advice thank you 😊 And yes please get ya self a new alive exhaust fitted and then it will be the dogs Dangley bits…. Ore even a Kahn full system ? But that’s will cost ya £1,295.00 on eBay 👍👍👍👍
Wow , my 2002 TD5 Defender still looks like new as compared to yours. Beach work here in AUS and Lanox spray cans every now and then. Must be your salty roads that are the killer. No rust at all visible under mine.
The salt combined with the wet is really crazy. That’s why my Defender never saw a winter. The only thing with really protects the car against rust over the years. Combined with Fluidfilm twice a year it is still like new.
Live by the sea in the Scottish highlands, even if you dont use the pickup it still goes rotten they use tons of salt here on the roads I've heard it's a grade above every where else don't know if that's the case.
Sorry friend, but I think the finish you have is wholly indicative of a quick DIY job. It appears patchy at best. There is no substitute for proper preparation. So, chassis as high as possible, wheels off, comprehensive power wash (steam if possible) & allow to dry thoroughly. I’ve been working through my recently released TUM Wolf and after chassis prep I’ve applied Dinitrol 4941 - I won’t be using any other product 👍
Old engine oil, spayed under pressure into every orifice one the chassis, drilled some holes and then sealed all holes with plugs....every couple of years spray old engine oil over the outside of the chassis, takes a few minutes. Did this all on a complete rebuild.....so did the bulkhead too...filled it with old engine oil and left it upside down for a week or two while I did other stuff...did the bits on the doors that go rusty too.....20 years...nothing rusty......ooooo! how can that be ?? the old gets on the series 2 club said that the oil is full of acid and would eat through the chassis!!! hey maybe it will but it will take 100 years to do it.
I agree with you, have applied used engine oil over many years but found it time consuming trying to avoid electrical connections, rubber items and the like. Additionally….it’s a pain when you have to carry out repairs later, oil on everything and road grime sticks and stays but overrall it’s a very cost effective alternative. I spray liberally into the chassis which over the years has been effective. Just don’t over do it, leaving oil on drives and the roadway is not a good policy. Incidentally….i mix about 350 mls of chain saw oil to 5 litres of oil, warm till quite hot, stir well and apply with an old paint spray gun……30 minutes for a pick up once its jacked up and prepped with a stiff brush and air line.
Great video again. Do you have the 265 75 16 on your 90? And is this with or without spacers. Just about to purchase new cooper stt's for my 90. Many thanks !
@@thedoctorsgarage great, many thanks. That one is clear. Still have to make the choice of keeping the high gloss wolf rims or powdercoat my old set of deepdish rims. choiches..... choices....
I have used lanaguard was not overly impressed for the cost it changed very quickly on my 2011 110 little surface rust to start which i cleaned off but didn't take long for it to show through less than a month its expensive will look at other options next time my advice would be look at one before you jump in and buy
You would probably have to get rid of the galvanized covering if you wanted to wield an area. My current Landy is 16 years old and its non-galvanised chassis is getting wielded now. Next up for me is cutting the rear section off and replacing it sometime in the next 5 years? At a wild guess a galvanized chassis will last 20 years somewhere near the sea, maybe double that (30 to 40) in a less corrosive environment. So when the time comes to replace the rear section I'll have to decide whether to just fix the back chassis or replace the whole thing. There are certainly galvanized roofs around my way that seem to last forever. (It's around £8K in the UK to get one professionally fitted now, but that usually includes replacing other bits that have rusted out at the same time.)
Problem with all of these products is that they are by design under sealers. Unless you first apply a rust converter chemical, you are simply sealing over the existing rust. Rust converters produce a chemical reaction that reacts with the rust to produce a black inert substance that can then be over painted. The black coating will prevent air oxidising the surface of the metal further preventing new corrosion. Then and only then should you use a paint or coating product of your choice. Anything else is a essentially waste of money.
You need to make sure that oil leak isn’t the fuel pressure regulator on the side of the block. It makes the normal oil leaks look worse washing the side of the block in diesel. It gets into the clutch housing and can contaminate the clutch.
Yes done my trailer with Lanoguard, dipped in salt water constantly great job. Going to go at my Touareg next. Might get power hose lance with attachment to wet blast with sand, just need to be careful! You really need a lift to go at the job done right wheels off etc, unfortunately we all havent got lifts, it's usually a job at the side of the house with a car jack!
"People are going to tell me stuff needs to be changed".... The loose red and white wire at 4:12 doc. Get it within that plastic sheathing, or protected from the elements somehow. You're just asking for trouble there.
Hi Doc, Thank you for the update! I had mine wax oiled by Arkley 4x4, they did a fantastic job, my brother who rebuilds Series 2, 2A and 3’s swears by old engine oil, god knows how he applies it and stops it from continuously dripping off all over the drive and garage once it’s warm? Kind regards Tony
I’ve heard that to be fair! Old engine oil seems to stop everything rusting but as you say no idea how you spray it and stop it dripping when it gets hot!
Great video. I live in the salty Highlands, and have used Dinitrol for the last 3 years on my 90. Rust coming back as usual. Will give lanoguard a try next.
Exhaust wise I have a stage 2 td5 with decat and mid pipe delete and standard rear silencer , it makes all the difference to performance and sound. Low speed nicely burbles along ,floor it and it's sounds awesome!
Emporeres new clothes me thinks, my 1988 110 has been waxoiled every year since I bought it in 1993 it has its origignal rear crossmember, outriggers and dumb irons, I would never change to another product, dead easy to apply and, wash off your equipment and hands with white spirit, and you don't end up smelling like a sheep's bum hole
I tried Lanoguard for the first time last year on my 16 year old Disco 3 it was becoming very crusty underneath so really needed treating before it got to the state it currently is . I purchased the 5ltr kit which was more than enough and would do the car twice over at least very easily , I think its best maybe spraying Lanoguard on every six months maybe ? It's very easy to use goes on very easy .Passed its MOT again this year so its not rotten yet 😂 easy to use I think am going to stick to it as its so simple and quick to use.
Interesting... Will do mine soon. I do a lot of off road with lots of dust... I wonder if this would mean the dust/mud will stick to it? Channel wise... Love watching an amateur such as I owning an LR. How about servicing, or trying to fix those drips like I have. I feel the garage just rushes it
Had mine Dinitroled about two years ago and so far still very happy with it. I always enjoy your videos, especially Alive products and services, extra Defender security ideas, car improvements/upgrades, product reviews . I have been thinking of getting a spare wheel carrier, probably the ORE which sounds like the best on the market. 👍🏻
Covering myself in Lanogurd took years off me. I was 55 when I crawled under the landrover. I looked like I was 23 when I crawled out 20 minutes later.
😂 sounds like something I should introduce to my clinic
@@thedoctorsgarage Great for needle shy patients - and you can buy it in bulk!
Tim, really? No BS as I might try this?
@@Jason-cl8hk No word of a lie. I now have a 21-year-old girlfriend and a full head of hair. Admittedly I smell like a sheep and get chased by the local collies, but I'm not complaining!
😂
Been using Lanoguard (or Lamotex) for about 20 years on my Landrovers. Our 2006 Freelander was done when we bought it new and recoated every couple of years and for a 16 year old vehicle is fairly rust free. I did our 2016 VW Amarok new when we bought it and 6 years on still looks like new underneath. I first found out about it from the farming community as the agricultural industry have been using it for years. It's also used a lot in Australia in the 4 x 4 community.
I used dinitrol first then lanoguard over that. Easy to apply. Pleased with the results. Found it easier to put the spray tub in warm water before use, and put the grease tub in hotter water. Very impressed with the grease. With hot water soaking before, it just paints on, but cools to a very solid grease.
Nick, you should definitely change the swan neck pitman arm for the much stronger Disco straight arm, and while you’re at it change the steering and torsion bars for stainless sumo bars, they’re brilliant !
Looks good! I used bilt hamber de-ox gel to remove surface rust and get the chassis back to a 'metal' colour and zinc paint to protect it with a top coat of hammerite. Worked brilliant but there was a lot of prep involved, worth it though.
You can have 10 litres of the Bilthammer uc underbody sealer for the price of Lanoguards kit
I think a de cat and straight through mid pipe would be fantastic for your car and you would love it. That’s what I have on mine and it still sounds standard when driving about slowly but put your foot down and there is a lovely bark followed by that 5 cylinder sweetness after. On the motorway it’s not boomy either. It only cost about £100 to do.
👌🏻 soon
@@thedoctorsgarage 😁😁 CANT WAIT MATE !!!
Thanks for a great review. With a 15 year old Alfa Brera and a 19 year old VW T5 camper to look after, I'll definitely be investing in some of this stuff.
I use a stuff called Corroless. It’s being used more and more on landrovers but I swear by it. It’s a paint used on oil rigs to prevent corrosion from sea water etc. You coat elverything in this rust inhibiting primer and then top coat it with its top coat. I don’t tent to bother with the branded topcoat and I just use hammerite or something. The primer is what does the work.
It stops rust but also treats any rust present. It definitely works and has a work life of 14years.
The issues with it is it takes a lot of prep, you’ve got to get as much stuff back to bear metal as possible like any paint. You can’t paint it onto flaky material or dirt. But it sprays on easy and looks fab
I think lanoguard is brilliant stuff, I’ve used all sorts of different products over the years on various land rovers I’ve had and this is by far the easiest and least messy of them all, and seems to bead water for the longest too, only thing is I wish they did a black version, it would just smarten it up better I think, as you can still see ugly surface rust, when I applied it for the second time after 12 months, I gave a mist coat of dinitrol first a week before the lanoguard to smarten the chassis up, only issue I had was with the trigger gun, when I came to use it a year on the gun had failed on the seals i think, it wouldn’t pump through, even tho I cleaned if thoroughly after the first time, but the product itself seems to work great, I’ll get more and use it again later in the year ready for next winter on my defender.
Agree with that - it does turn the chassis a little black but as you say sometimes just puts a clear coat over the rust which is a shame
@@thedoctorsgarage can you not just mix a tiny amount of black waxoyl in the mix to blacken it? I might try this as now the summer is here it’s a good time to be getting on with this job
Some thoughts on servicing would be good, what you do yourself, what you have done by a mechanic and the duration between each one.
Interesting thanks 👌🏻
The issue with all "Modern" Defenders is the fact that there is no paint prep carried out on the chassis post welding. The "paint" that LR apply simply flakes off everywhere.. look at the underside of every LR product. See my videos for proof of this following a 100% stripdown. I Waxoyled my 2011 defender from day one and have no rust whatsoever inside the chassis. However, EVERY welded area of the chassis corroded and it spread like wildfire. After sand blasting, painting with Corroless and re treating with Waxoyl I now have a totally rust free chassis that is not a disgusting sticky mess.
😂 I will agree mine is a bit of a disgusting sticky mess
Hi mate. At 5:13 you showed the oil leak. You're missing a bolt on the left side. Thanks for sharing the video, I think I may purchase some too
Thanks appreciate that!
@@thedoctorsgarage you're welcome mate
Thanks for the video Doc! For future ideas how about adding a winch, roof rack and how are you set for tunes on the inside? Also, do you use any diagnostic tools such as IID or icarsoft. Generally show us how you gather your Intel for your jobs.
Hi Doc....transfer box oil seal on input or gearbox output...cheap fix ..few hours work...it will get worse..keep your eye on oil levels. Ron
Thanks Ron good to know
Would you think about having dinitrol applied to the underneath? Had mine done last year and was amazed by how good it looks!
Just out of interest how much was it roughly to have dinitrol applied?
I have used the Lanoguard product on my SUV recently, so not enough time to see how effective it will be. Very easy to apply but the one downside is it is expensive to buy.
I've just ordered some because of your review. Hope it is as good as you say : )
So good- you won’t be
Disappointed!
Chris Parkinson of Before n After did mine. Top job
👌🏻
Why not to use all cavities Bilt Hamber Dynax S50, what is developed specially for car/vans/machinery cavities, comes in spray with application lance....much quicker application and more effective than this hand spray.
The oil leak is your rocker cover gasket
Run your finger over the back of the head to make sure . Change them every 2 years they go hard and brittle then don’t seal at the back
Thanks I’ll take a look!
Have you had a look at the billet door handles from Exmoor Trim? They would make a nice addition to your truck. Also how about a set of Gwyn Lewis mud shields to keep the crap off your cross member. I've fitted a set to my 110, great addition to stop corrosion.
Keep up the good work doc what you missed last time get it next. Good product mines 19 years old only done when new will steam clean in summer and lanoguard it my exhaust is like yours and needs replaceing . If done properly it needs only every few years unless useing it off road .LEAKS as mine keep eye on levels
Be good to see a new exhaust and GTB550 turbo as well :)
….soon
What size kit would you suggest regular 2l or large 4l it be a first application on a disco 3
I’d go bigger- then you can really soak it
One of your first images was clearly ACF-50, which is what I'm using. Also Lanolin based. Did you use ACF-50 as well?
Hi Doc
Great content mate and great advice thank you 😊
And yes please get ya self a new alive exhaust fitted and then it will be the dogs Dangley bits…. Ore even a Kahn full system ? But that’s will cost ya £1,295.00 on eBay 👍👍👍👍
Thanks! Yeah I’m ready for a new exhaust esp with the remap etc- I think i would be going alive or demand at the moment from what I’ve seen
Oil leaks are normal for LR its a way of telling you there is oil in there, When it stops leaking you know you are in trouble.
😂👌🏻
Wow , my 2002 TD5 Defender still looks like new as compared to yours. Beach work here in AUS and Lanox spray cans every now and then. Must be your salty roads that are the killer. No rust at all visible under mine.
its the salt over here eats them to hell
So wet and salty here!
The salt combined with the wet is really crazy. That’s why my Defender never saw a winter. The only thing with really protects the car against rust over the years. Combined with Fluidfilm twice a year it is still like new.
Live by the sea in the Scottish highlands, even if you dont use the pickup it still goes rotten they use tons of salt here on the roads I've heard it's a grade above every where else don't know if that's the case.
Sorry friend, but I think the finish you have is wholly indicative of a quick DIY job. It appears patchy at best. There is no substitute for proper preparation. So, chassis as high as possible, wheels off, comprehensive power wash (steam if possible) & allow to dry thoroughly.
I’ve been working through my recently released TUM Wolf and after chassis prep I’ve applied Dinitrol 4941 - I won’t be using any other product 👍
That does sound like a better job you have done to be fair
Please choose the Demand system as I’d be really interested in the review.
It’s on the top list to be fair - look like really solid made stuff
@@thedoctorsgarage well, you completely ignored my advice on the Alive springs so the least you can do is keep me happy with the Demand system! 😂
Old engine oil, spayed under pressure into every orifice one the chassis, drilled some holes and then sealed all holes with plugs....every couple of years spray old engine oil over the outside of the chassis, takes a few minutes. Did this all on a complete rebuild.....so did the bulkhead too...filled it with old engine oil and left it upside down for a week or two while I did other stuff...did the bits on the doors that go rusty too.....20 years...nothing rusty......ooooo! how can that be ?? the old gets on the series 2 club said that the oil is full of acid and would eat through the chassis!!! hey maybe it will but it will take 100 years to do it.
I agree with you, have applied used engine oil over many years but found it time consuming trying to avoid electrical connections, rubber items and the like. Additionally….it’s a pain when you have to carry out repairs later, oil on everything and road grime sticks and stays but overrall it’s a very cost effective alternative. I spray liberally into the chassis which over the years has been effective. Just don’t over do it, leaving oil on drives and the roadway is not a good policy. Incidentally….i mix about 350 mls of chain saw oil to 5 litres of oil, warm till quite hot, stir well and apply with an old paint spray gun……30 minutes for a pick up once its jacked up and prepped with a stiff brush and air line.
Great video again. Do you have the 265 75 16 on your 90? And is this with or without spacers. Just about to purchase new cooper stt's for my 90.
Many thanks !
Thansk Matt- yes exactly that size and I have 30mm spacers which I feel sets them off perfect
@@thedoctorsgarage great, many thanks. That one is clear. Still have to make the choice of keeping the high gloss wolf rims or powdercoat my old set of deepdish rims. choiches..... choices....
Can you paint over it??
I have used lanaguard was not overly impressed for the cost it changed very quickly on my 2011 110 little surface rust to start which i cleaned off but didn't take long for it to show through less than a month its expensive will look at other options next time my advice would be look at one before you jump in and buy
Ive been pleased with mine to be fair- juts needed a bit more than I thought
I’ve just purchased my first ever Land Rover, a 2019 MY20 Discovery Sport. Would love to see some content around it. Thanks.
👌🏻
Or... if your chassis is already fairly knackered then get it galvanised. Pricy, but it makes the chassis as close to immortal as its going to get.
Does this cause issues for repairs later - as in welds producing more toxic fumes?
You would probably have to get rid of the galvanized covering if you wanted to wield an area. My current Landy is 16 years old and its non-galvanised chassis is getting wielded now. Next up for me is cutting the rear section off and replacing it sometime in the next 5 years? At a wild guess a galvanized chassis will last 20 years somewhere near the sea, maybe double that (30 to 40) in a less corrosive environment. So when the time comes to replace the rear section I'll have to decide whether to just fix the back chassis or replace the whole thing. There are certainly galvanized roofs around my way that seem to last forever.
(It's around £8K in the UK to get one professionally fitted now, but that usually includes replacing other bits that have rusted out at the same time.)
W Lanoguard
Lanoguard seems is the ideal product for rust protecting a Defender. Except you will probably end up smelling really baaad!
😂👌🏻
Get PPF then take it green laneing
It smells like a welsh man's wet dream. It's delicious.
😂😂
maybe better mix with lavender oil so it does not smell like sheep poo
😂 good idea
If it's that bad then just sell it and buy a euro box or something more run of the mill, otherwise stop moaning about it.
Click bat
🦇
lanogaurd is not just for defenders lol
What about Bilt Hamber Dynax UB and S50? You mention ‘everything else on the market’ but not that.
Never heard of it to be fair!
I used Bilt Hamber on both my cars. It does start to come off after a couple of years.
Problem with all of these products is that they are by design under sealers. Unless you first apply a rust converter chemical, you are simply sealing over the existing rust. Rust converters produce a chemical reaction that reacts with the rust to produce a black inert substance that can then be over painted. The black coating will prevent air oxidising the surface of the metal further preventing new corrosion. Then and only then should you use a paint or coating product of your choice. Anything else is a essentially waste of money.
You need to make sure that oil leak isn’t the fuel pressure regulator on the side of the block. It makes the normal oil leaks look worse washing the side of the block in diesel. It gets into the clutch housing and can contaminate the clutch.
Yes done my trailer with Lanoguard, dipped in salt water constantly great job. Going to go at my Touareg next. Might get power hose lance with attachment to wet blast with sand, just need to be careful! You really need a lift to go at the job done right wheels off etc, unfortunately we all havent got lifts, it's usually a job at the side of the house with a car jack!
Haha same!
"People are going to tell me stuff needs to be changed".... The loose red and white wire at 4:12 doc. Get it within that plastic sheathing, or protected from the elements somehow. You're just asking for trouble there.
Fair comment- I need to get them
Sorted!
Hi Doc,
Thank you for the update!
I had mine wax oiled by Arkley 4x4, they did a fantastic job, my brother who rebuilds Series 2, 2A and 3’s swears by old engine oil, god knows how he applies it and stops it from continuously dripping off all over the drive and garage once it’s warm?
Kind regards
Tony
I’ve heard that to be fair! Old engine oil seems to stop everything rusting but as you say no idea how you spray it and stop it dripping when it gets hot!
Great video. I live in the salty Highlands, and have used Dinitrol for the last 3 years on my 90. Rust coming back as usual. Will give lanoguard a try next.
Thanks- it’s a decent product 👌🏻
Exhaust wise I have a stage 2 td5 with decat and mid pipe delete and standard rear silencer , it makes all the difference to performance and sound. Low speed nicely burbles along ,floor it and it's sounds awesome!
Sounds nice - I need to get mine sorted 👌🏻
How's the rust now, did it come back? subbed
Whoa i will try on my Fiat 500 Abarth ❤
Nice video! My defender also smells like sheep 🐑 but I used Fluid Film, maybe the same ingredient.
😂 🐑
super helpful thank you
Boiled Linseed oil - just as easy to apply, just as effective, and less expensive...
Will look in to it thanks!
What made you choose this over the usual selections, such as Dinitrol, Coroless, waxoil etc?
I think just ease of being able to spray it on yourself really with little prep needed
You could try a cheap pump up garden sprayer, might get more on the car and less on you!?
Good idea- you’d probably want to throw it away after to avoid everything smelling like a sheep!🐑
Emporeres new clothes me thinks, my 1988 110 has been waxoiled every year since I bought it in 1993 it has its origignal rear crossmember, outriggers and dumb irons, I would never change to another product, dead easy to apply and, wash off your equipment and hands with white spirit, and you don't end up smelling like a sheep's bum hole
Take a shower with lemon juice real lemons
Sounds interesting…
I can't fault Dinitrol.
Good product
I tried Lanoguard for the first time last year on my 16 year old Disco 3 it was becoming very crusty underneath so really needed treating before it got to the state it currently is . I purchased the 5ltr kit which was more than enough and would do the car twice over at least very easily , I think its best maybe spraying Lanoguard on every six months maybe ? It's very easy to use goes on very easy .Passed its MOT again this year so its not rotten yet 😂 easy to use I think am going to stick to it as its so simple and quick to use.
Yeah I found it so easy to do and I think it works really well
@1.09 does the kit come with the ACF-50 products?
In what way is lanolin better than boiled linseed oil?
Doc, fantastic look back at protecting you beast. Many thanks for sharing.
Interesting... Will do mine soon. I do a lot of off road with lots of dust... I wonder if this would mean the dust/mud will stick to it?
Channel wise... Love watching an amateur such as I owning an LR. How about servicing, or trying to fix those drips like I have. I feel the garage just rushes it
Had mine Dinitroled about two years ago and so far still very happy with it. I always enjoy your videos, especially Alive products and services, extra Defender security ideas, car improvements/upgrades, product reviews . I have been thinking of getting a spare wheel carrier, probably the ORE which sounds like the best on the market. 👍🏻
I think I’ll invest in that later in the year 👍
Yes
piece of crap car and even worse rust proofing job