I have the same problem with my Frigidaire FRS23KF6CW1. I took the adaptive defrost unit out and open the white box enclosure to inspect the control board. I saw a capacitor swollen and I replaced the capacitor. It works fine after that.
Awesome awesome video. I referenced this to replace my defrost circuit board and it sure saved me a lot of hassle. And knowing that whatever I was doing wasn't going to break something!
Can't say I have any complaints to give, you did great, you made it easy to understand, you added some parts to make your watchers laugh while doing it. I'm subscribing!
I watched your video and another one on the Frigidaire site and put them together in my brain for a successful repair. Got identical part online and had on hand prior to watching video. The damper was replaced prior to the DCB watching another couple of videos, because it was making that noise yours was making and the evap. fan was cycling on and off every second or two. The most difficult part of the repair was getting that styrofoam box off without destroying it, since the replacement damper was used. What cued me in to the possibly of the problem being the control board is when the evap. fan was on but not blowing cold air through the open damper. My icing wasn't as severe as yours, but behind the panel was solid ice and frost. I used a blow dryer to melt it away and also cleaned the interior while the shelves were off. You made the material enjoyable and I subscribed. Regards, dude!
Update: The issue was definitely the DCB - I have not had any issues whatsoever since the part was replaced. I ended up with an extra damper, so I put it in my parts collection. Now I know what the damper actually sounds like when it is opening and closing; the damper actually takes several seconds to open/close and the operation cycle is not instantaneous. The clunking noise was prob. a relay on the DCB. I'm curious as to how many consumers throw out their fridges because of a failure of this easily replaceable part. This video pointed me in the right direction and I thank you for posting it. Kindest Regards from Louisiana! K. Nettles, RN
Awesome Keith! Ya, I’m sure it’s too overwhelming for a lot of people and once they get a quote from a repair man, they probably just get new ones. :/ Congrats for sticking it out and conquering it!! 👍
@@ExtremeDIY - Probably the most time-consuming aspect of the whole ordeal was securing the parts and making sure they were correct. Used E-Bay for both; got the damper for $11 used with free shipping. When replacing the damper didn't cure the problem, got the orange updated version of the ADCB with updated wiring harness for $67 and some change with free shipping from a supplier in Miami. Was genuine Electrolux/Frigidaire. Honestly, the most frustrating part of the initial repair (damper controller) was finding a 3/8 " nut driver that would surround the hex heads of the screws. My existing nut driver and several sockets wouldn't fit in the opening because of the outer diameter being too large. Ended up buying a 3/8" ratcheting hex screwdriver handle that was slim enough to get in there, esp. the last rear screw on the left. When I took it apart again to replace the control board and harness, the repair went quickly. There's nothing quite so frustrating as missing the one tool that is needed to make a job easier. Thanks again!
Just worked on mine this morning for the same problem. But the controller is no longer available for my fridge, so I opened the controller and found a 50 cent capacitor that had swollen and a relay that was rattling a bit when you shook it. I had a replacement capacitor on hand, so swapped it out and put things back together. Works great and fridge is cooling again... I'll be ordering a replacement relay tomorrow ($4.50) and will swap that out once it arrives.
Also a good idea to take a few snap shots of the existing board before replacing the connections one at a time. Thank you for entertaining us (via Micky Mouse's voice)!
Why the wiring? Great video I have a similar fridge and coil is icing up. Element has 30 ohms so I think it is good. I will see about timer by doing your light switch trick
Thanks for the tutorial. I have a White Westinghouse, but this worked. I think they're made by the same company. We have a cold freezer, frosting up, and a warm fridge. So I'm pretty sure it's the defrost timer. A power cycle did not help. But manually starting the defrost cycle seems to have worked. 👍
Great video. This is the only video that came close to my Kenmore side by side physically. The only difference was my Kenmore has the water filter located just to the right of the temperature controls. It took one more screw and I had to figure out how to remove the water lines. For anyone interested you need to push in on the blue rings and pull out the hose. To reinstall you also need to push in the rings.
Great video! i Just ordered the defrost control board for mine because of your video! Can you tell me about flipping the "light switch" 6 times and then another 5 to "turn it on"?
Thanks! Glad to help! Flipping the light switch 5 times will manually turn on the defrost cycle so you can test things out. But other models will be different.
DUDE!!!!!!!! Thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you Thanks to you I’m sure I saved money fixing my refrigerator not exactly what you did to yours but your video helped me a lot to fix my problem... once again ...thank you very much ..... thank you 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Thank you for this video!! I just changed out the Defrost Thermostat, the fan is working as is the heating element. I guess I will be trying the defrost timer now.
Question, you described nearly same problems on my Frigidaire did you say that the fan was kicking on and off for periods of time, and if so I assume the fix did the job?
Have a different model or year Frigidaire that was doing the exact same thing. The fan would pulse, more off than on, and the fresh food section was miserably warm except the bottom where the water line froze up and there was ice in the back of the freezer like yours. Inside top looks identical to yours down to the water filter, door shelves, etc. Log story short, had a repair service take care of it because while I fix things I don't mess around where I am unfamiliar with stuff (did not know about this video) The guy only charged 100 bucks because he was able to get an "old style" (but still never used) defrost unit, which is actually the brain for the fan, cold controls and so forth. That one did not require a replacement of the entire wiring harness. he was done in 5 minutes and the thing works perfectly. So, after all that, do you happen to know the part number of the older style unit? It looks exactly like yours except it is white, not orange. I am assuming the lead for an older wiring harness won't plug into a newer style defrost/control module. Also the older design costed him less than $50. thanks.
Hey how about if you plug the refrigerator up the defrost fan just bumps around later speeds up...when I feel the defrost heater is with my fingers it's ALLWAYS cool ,ice on coils accumulate quick
Mine is making stupid noises as well, and barely any air is coming out. Could this be the issue as well?? One thing I can tell you is that my freezer doesn't have all that frost on it like yours, but man it seems much colder than usual; while the fridge of course is warmer.
UPDATE: it was the damper door!! I made this determination by taking out the housing unit and noticing that it was closed shut. Upon prying it open with a flat head, the fridge became cooler, really too cold. Lol! Which of course was expected, as it was only a temporary fix. I ordered a brand new one & its working like a charm. Amazon sent me one very fast!
Was it necessary to change the wiring with the control board? Could you have just used the old one? Or did they make a change and the control board would only work with the new wiring harness?
Thank you for the video and the song. I replaced the defrost control panel because the fridge was not cooling and everything else was working. Now it is freezing everything. I have all but turned the controls to off. I am at a loss as to what the problem is...
Appreciate this video, I also have a Frigidaire. I unplugged it to let the coil defost, (the coil is sealed up, can't see it but it stays cold on the outside of the fridge even unplugged for over 24 hours.) But now I realize that is only the symptom.
Extreme DIY ,respect. What can cause ice to build up in the drip pan at the back of the fridge where the compressor is?? I am going to check it out 2marrow any heads up?
Tiny Tim reincarnated. No just joking wouldn't wish that on anybody. Anyway yeah saving and you got a new subscriber. Don't know if I can use this or not though.
My freezer was iced up like this one and when i took it apart i noticed the evap fan wasn't spinning. I bought a new and put it in and it doesnt spin either. Does that adapative defrost module control the power to the evap fan?
I get a question for you? I have Kemore refrigerator side by side ( model 106.5942*802.) The problem I have freeze keep ice -up then dump water in the drip pan every 12 hours or so. I'm tired of to keep take a drip pan out to drain off the discharge water. How can I stop that ,it' s not happen like that before. Thanks.
Great video! I have an almost identical model. I have 3 questions. 1 Should the defrost heater come on after turning the light switch off 5 times? ___ My defrost heater tested good for continuity, but didn't come on after turning off the light 5 times. 2. Should I try replacing the defrost heater first since it's available for around $20?____ Unfortunately that "Adaptive defrost control board" isn't available on amazon any more, nor does repair clinic have it. 3. Any other suggestions on where to get one?____
Thanks good video,I have the same model and everything works but evaporator fan not working, voltage 9 v when I measured .from control white box black wire 120v to evaporate fan red and white wire by pass the fan works ,so do I have to replace this white box (control board???
Did you change the wiring harness because of the new module needed it , or just to be on the safe side while you had it apart ???? Great Video BTW..........
thank you for the video. my refrigerator is not cooling but there is a beep sound and mark H1. do you thing it could be the same problem . because my freezer is doing the same as the one you fixed.
I have a whirlpool stand alone freezer. Model #WZF34X18DW01 that keeps freezing up. Do u have the specs I should be looking for when testing components? And do u know any known regular failures?
Hi, very informative video thanks, I have an LG bottom freezer frig model LFC25776ST/00 that the evaporator fan has quit working on. compressor and both evap and cond fans work ok in test mode, both temp sensors ohm out right according to the temp chart that LG published ( some guy show one in a video I watched on one just like mine and had the manual ). I replaced the main PCB board, but still same thing. Any ideas what else is might be? You seem to know you way around on them, thought I would ask your advise.. Thanks, David
I have replaced the defrost thermostat, and the defrost adaptive timer. The freezer is about 30 degrees and the frig is about 40 degrees. The fans are working and I can feel vibrations from the compressor when I place my hand on it, so I assume it is working as well. The heater is working when I click the light switch 5 times. Any ideas as to what to check next? There is ice buildup though.
@@OhItsJustMe2 it is fixable but you need a service tech to go in there to fix it it's not something you can do without knowing how. If it's an older refrigerator or you may want to look at replacing it or at least get an estimate on repairs first
@@fishwithme1 Thank you Richard!!! It is older but not really that old (as far as I am concerned anyway lol). Its about 10 yrs old. But if it can be repaired, I will call someone tomorrow. Thank you for responding, I really do appreciate you!!!
If one is75 yrs old--which is exactly what I am. The side by side is around 2 months old. The freezer shows 4 degrees and the fridge is 43. I looks like all of the repair you did would be very costly. I am even afraid to call GE as I do not know what to say or know if I am getting the run around. Any ideas?
Thanks for the video. A technician came and replace mines but never changed the harness, the fridge started colding for a few days and now is back to a cool fridge and the freezer frosting up. Please help.
Frigidaire Model GLHS66EFSB3 there is no power to Compressor before relay, seems something wrong with power board. Some fridge power board is underneath, some has back of fridge. Couldn't find Power board in this model. Need part no. of Power Board as well.
The new adaptive control has to control the exact same equipment that is still in place so the new harness has to be the exact same specs as the old. I swapped mine and it worked perfect going on 2 months now. I work on motorcycles and cars(with ecu) so it would be really tough to have to change the cars wiring harness when a part is changed but I get doing it has as a precaution.
@@MrGeoffois The new ADC/harness doesn't use both damper motor connections and so is wired differently according to the manual. I wouldn't risk not replacing the harness when the manual says to and it's included with the new ADC kit.
Thanks for a very helpful vid. My issue is freezer too cold, fridge too warm (50 degrees.) I already replaced the evap fan, no frost in the freezer, so it seems to be defrosting well. Can't feel much air coming through the damper in fridge. Thinking perhaps the damper door stuck/broken, or switch broken. Any thoughts?
I would also check the vent located behind the first frig drawer all the way back on the left side. If that gets blocked or plugged with frost the air won't properly circulate between the frig and freezer.
@@HighSpeedirt1 I think this is my issue still after changing this control board, that is clogged. I get a freezer operating below 0F, I can visually see the door opening and closing by sticking a camera in the back of the fridge and messing with the thermo dial to the fridge, I feel some cool air blowing into the fridge, but when I check the fridge I'm at about 42F, I've seen 39 a few times. I have the dial to the refridgerator side set at 75%, while the factory setting is 50%. I've been inching the dial up more and more to get more of a drop in temp on the fridge, to no increase.....more like millimetering it up. How would I clear this little vent intake on the fridge, would I have to empty my freezer and let it defrost for a while, seems like a mess, or do you think it will defrost slowly by slowly from the standard defrost cyles?
Whirlpool fridge isn't cooling as much . Thermometer says it gets to 50 degrees even though I've set setting pretty cold . Milk and other things spoil in less time . No ice in freezer or fridge walls . Freezer is great 0 degrees . And water has been collecting at bottom of fridge and I've been taking it out every few days once a week maybe . Collects about half a liter in about a week .
video did not help me for my issue (other than letting me know that not having frost removed it as the issue) But it was entertaining enough that I watched it all and like it - Like your video style.. unlike the other 12 videos I watched on the same subject. May I suggest you add the "make" to the video ...
Hey my bother how are you ... maybe you can help one more time .. now the control panel number “2” is blinking that is the frizzer side I change it but it goes back to number “2” the damper and the thermostat are working (I tested the thermostat with a multimeter)the frizzer side is working perfect but the refrigerator side is hot cuz the damper won’t open it might be the control panel is not working...
Dang i had no clue about the 5 quick bursts on the light to send it into defrost mode. (I bet that's in that manual thing i used to start a campfire...) My coil is working. But i did the 5 times again to stop and get back into ...errrm... freezer mode. It's making a weird sound like when Jaws was coming.... baaadummm.............baaaaaaduuumm. ... Since you're obviously a musician... 90 bpm, on "1 & " (rest on 2, 3 , 4) " 1 &" (rest 3, 4) .... same tempo keeps pushing the air in intermittent intervals like that. I hear a constant clicking sound in that housing in the fridge. And at same time in sync with the compressor and fan are going, it's making burst sounds every second or slightly faster, but repeats about a minute or two before it finally constantly pushes air. After watching you take the wires out of the thing,..... handyman. I'm out lol. Tap out. I spent all Sunday watching UA-cam. Time is money. But this vid was by far the best i have seen to explain taking the thing apart. Kudos.
Anyone. Heating element ohm test shows 29 ohms. Manually cycling the defrost mode using light switch in fridge 5 times I hear timer activate but heating element does not heat up. I cant determine is it timer or element since 29 ohms seems like a good resistance level etc
Hello ! I hope you read my cuestion......I changed the ADC and the harness but now the damper is working inverse .....close when the refrigerator is calling for cold and open only when I put the control manually off ....can you help me ? I did all you do....and yes I only used one microswicht of the damper the one next to the foam
You'll have to get into diagnostic mode and manually turn it on. If it doesn't turn on then, I'm guessing it's bad and needs replaced. If it does, then it's probably the defrost timer I replaced in the video.
Great video. My whirlpool refrigerator is not cooling properly and I can not find the timer. It is 2017 whirlpool fridge black color up and down doors. Thanks.
Vic Vida The old wiring harness is not compatible with the new adaptive defrost control module due to the new one only using one of the damper motor’s plugs.
I bet it’s some tiny part (like a capacitor) in the control board causing it all to go bad. Too bad we can’t figure out what it is. These control boards are $100-200!
3of11 Hey man how are you ? So your board was defective what did you do ... did you change the board cuz I think I got the same problem...and yes they go for like $150 ....
I have the same problem with my Frigidaire FRS23KF6CW1. I took the adaptive defrost unit out and open the white box enclosure to inspect the control board. I saw a capacitor swollen and I replaced the capacitor. It works fine after that.
Awesome awesome video. I referenced this to replace my defrost circuit board and it sure saved me a lot of hassle. And knowing that whatever I was doing wasn't going to break something!
Can't say I have any complaints to give, you did great, you made it easy to understand, you added some parts to make your watchers laugh while doing it. I'm subscribing!
I watched your video and another one on the Frigidaire site and put them together in my brain for a successful repair. Got identical part online and had on hand prior to watching video. The damper was replaced prior to the DCB watching another couple of videos, because it was making that noise yours was making and the evap. fan was cycling on and off every second or two. The most difficult part of the repair was getting that styrofoam box off without destroying it, since the replacement damper was used. What cued me in to the possibly of the problem being the control board is when the evap. fan was on but not blowing cold air through the open damper. My icing wasn't as severe as yours, but behind the panel was solid ice and frost. I used a blow dryer to melt it away and also cleaned the interior while the shelves were off. You made the material enjoyable and I subscribed. Regards, dude!
Update: The issue was definitely the DCB - I have not had any issues whatsoever since the part was replaced. I ended up with an extra damper, so I put it in my parts collection. Now I know what the damper actually sounds like when it is opening and closing; the damper actually takes several seconds to open/close and the operation cycle is not instantaneous. The clunking noise was prob. a relay on the DCB.
I'm curious as to how many consumers throw out their fridges because of a failure of this easily replaceable part. This video pointed me in the right direction and I thank you for posting it.
Kindest Regards from Louisiana!
K. Nettles, RN
Awesome Keith! Ya, I’m sure it’s too overwhelming for a lot of people and once they get a quote from a repair man, they probably just get new ones. :/ Congrats for sticking it out and conquering it!! 👍
@@ExtremeDIY - Probably the most time-consuming aspect of the whole ordeal was securing the parts and making sure they were correct. Used E-Bay for both; got the damper for $11 used with free shipping. When replacing the damper didn't cure the problem, got the orange updated version of the ADCB with updated wiring harness for $67 and some change with free shipping from a supplier in Miami. Was genuine Electrolux/Frigidaire. Honestly, the most frustrating part of the initial repair (damper controller) was finding a 3/8 " nut driver that would surround the hex heads of the screws. My existing nut driver and several sockets wouldn't fit in the opening because of the outer diameter being too large. Ended up buying a 3/8" ratcheting hex screwdriver handle that was slim enough to get in there, esp. the last rear screw on the left. When I took it apart again to replace the control board and harness, the repair went quickly. There's nothing quite so frustrating as missing the one tool that is needed to make a job easier. Thanks again!
Just worked on mine this morning for the same problem. But the controller is no longer available for my fridge, so I opened the controller and found a 50 cent capacitor that had swollen and a relay that was rattling a bit when you shook it. I had a replacement capacitor on hand, so swapped it out and put things back together. Works great and fridge is cooling again... I'll be ordering a replacement relay tomorrow ($4.50) and will swap that out once it arrives.
Well done! Great delivery and more accurate than others we found. Saved it for future repairs.
Also a good idea to take a few snap shots of the existing board before replacing the connections one at a time. Thank you for entertaining us (via Micky Mouse's voice)!
Why the wiring? Great video I have a similar fridge and coil is icing up. Element has 30 ohms so I think it is good. I will see about timer by doing your light switch trick
Thanks for the tutorial. I have a White Westinghouse, but this worked. I think they're made by the same company.
We have a cold freezer, frosting up, and a warm fridge. So I'm pretty sure it's the defrost timer. A power cycle did not help. But manually starting the defrost cycle seems to have worked.
👍
It is a good video on a part that no longer seems to be available
Where can I buy that adapter defrost control module?
Did you happen to find it or comparable? I am having the same issue, cant find. Thank you!
Great video. This is the only video that came close to my Kenmore side by side physically. The only difference was my Kenmore has the water filter located just to the right of the temperature controls. It took one more screw and I had to figure out how to remove the water lines. For anyone interested you need to push in on the blue rings and pull out the hose. To reinstall you also need to push in the rings.
Thanks Gene! Glad I was able to help. And thanks for the tips on how to tackle a Kenmore!
Loved it! Still don't know why you had to replace harness?
The instructions specifically said you have to, due to eliminating one of the plugs. They rewired it apparently.
The original Damper control 241600902 has 2 power leads in the harness. Defrost timer Board white O.G. the new one orange D.T.B reroite power.
Good video,I did the heater coil test,did not get hot,so that could be my problem
Great video! i Just ordered the defrost control board for mine because of your video! Can you tell me about flipping the "light switch" 6 times and then another 5 to "turn it on"?
Thanks! Glad to help! Flipping the light switch 5 times will manually turn on the defrost cycle so you can test things out. But other models will be different.
Within 6 seconds you have to hit door switch 5 times to reset for most models. Thanks
DUDE!!!!!!!!
Thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you thank you
Thanks to you I’m sure I saved money fixing my refrigerator not exactly what you did to yours but your video helped me a lot to fix my problem... once again ...thank you very much ..... thank you 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
What was the problem with yours?
Thank you for this video!! I just changed out the Defrost Thermostat, the fan is working as is the heating element. I guess I will be trying the defrost timer now.
Very informative for DIY
Question, you described nearly same problems on my Frigidaire did you say that the fan was kicking on and off for periods of time, and if so I assume the fix did the job?
Have a different model or year Frigidaire that was doing the exact same thing. The fan would pulse, more off than on, and the fresh food section was miserably warm except the bottom where the water line froze up and there was ice in the back of the freezer like yours. Inside top looks identical to yours down to the water filter, door shelves, etc.
Log story short, had a repair service take care of it because while I fix things I don't mess around where I am unfamiliar with stuff (did not know about this video) The guy only charged 100 bucks because he was able to get an "old style" (but still never used) defrost unit, which is actually the brain for the fan, cold controls and so forth. That one did not require a replacement of the entire wiring harness. he was done in 5 minutes and the thing works perfectly. So, after all that, do you happen to know the part number of the older style unit? It looks exactly like yours except it is white, not orange. I am assuming the lead for an older wiring harness won't plug into a newer style defrost/control module. Also the older design costed him less than $50. thanks.
Gonna try this. Ty.....so tired of losing my food
incredible video. no chance to fix the faulty board?
Great video! Did you have to defrost for 24 hours??
Hey how about if you plug the refrigerator up the defrost fan just bumps around later speeds up...when I feel the defrost heater is with my fingers it's ALLWAYS cool ,ice on coils accumulate quick
DIY reply
Mine is making stupid noises as well, and barely any air is coming out. Could this be the issue as well?? One thing I can tell you is that my freezer doesn't have all that frost on it like yours, but man it seems much colder than usual; while the fridge of course is warmer.
UPDATE: it was the damper door!! I made this determination by taking out the housing unit and noticing that it was closed shut. Upon prying it open with a flat head, the fridge became cooler, really too cold. Lol! Which of course was expected, as it was only a temporary fix. I ordered a brand new one & its working like a charm. Amazon sent me one very fast!
Was it necessary to change the wiring with the control board? Could you have just used the old one? Or did they make a change and the control board would only work with the new wiring harness?
Yes, the instructions specifically said it was required as the wiring was different.
Thank you for the video and the song. I replaced the defrost control panel because the fridge was not cooling and everything else was working. Now it is freezing everything. I have all but turned the controls to off. I am at a loss as to what the problem is...
Appreciate this video, I also have a Frigidaire. I unplugged it to let the coil defost, (the coil is sealed up, can't see it but it stays cold on the outside of the fridge even unplugged for over 24 hours.) But now I realize that is only the symptom.
Nice Video Bro...
Thanks for sharing Your Knowledge.
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Perfect, you making me make money here in jamaica
Cool! Glad to help!! 👍🏻
Extreme DIY ,respect. What can cause ice to build up in the drip pan at the back of the fridge where the compressor is?? I am going to check it out 2marrow any heads up?
LOL I watch Caribbean Life house hunters and to me Dom Republic or Jamaica gives a person a great home under 200k
Most helpful. Great presentation. Many thanks
Good video! I usually use a hair dryer too loosen the damper glue! makes it a little easier!
Easy to flower, good job.
Tiny Tim reincarnated. No just joking wouldn't wish that on anybody. Anyway yeah saving and you got a new subscriber. Don't know if I can use this or not though.
My freezer was iced up like this one and when i took it apart i noticed the evap fan wasn't spinning. I bought a new and put it in and it doesnt spin either. Does that adapative defrost module control the power to the evap fan?
I get a question for you?
I have Kemore refrigerator side by side ( model 106.5942*802.)
The problem I have freeze keep ice -up then dump water in the drip pan every 12 hours or so.
I'm tired of to keep take a drip pan out to drain off the discharge water.
How can I stop that ,it' s not happen like that before.
Thanks.
Great video! I have an almost identical model. I have 3 questions. 1 Should the defrost heater come on after turning the light switch off 5 times? ___ My defrost heater tested good for continuity, but didn't come on after turning off the light 5 times. 2. Should I try replacing the defrost heater first since it's available for around $20?____
Unfortunately that "Adaptive defrost control board" isn't available on amazon any more, nor does repair clinic have it. 3. Any other suggestions on where to get one?____
Thanks good video,I have the same model and everything works but evaporator fan not working, voltage 9 v when I measured .from control white box black wire 120v to evaporate fan red and white wire by pass the fan works ,so do I have to replace this white box (control board???
I have the same problem and nearly the same frig FRS26R2A but your link says out of stock
Did you change the wiring harness because of the new module needed it , or just to be on the safe side while you had it apart ???? Great Video BTW..........
Instructions said it needed to be replaced as the new harness configuration isn’t quite the same.
Keep at the great DIY videos.... practice the song. But the end warble was great!
thank you for the video. my refrigerator is not cooling but there is a beep sound and mark H1. do you thing it could be the same problem . because my freezer is doing the same as the one you fixed.
Great video,I like your attitude,also nice voice.
Thanks John!
How do you test that A DC board?
I have a whirlpool stand alone freezer. Model #WZF34X18DW01 that keeps freezing up. Do u have the specs I should be looking for when testing components? And do u know any known regular failures?
Hi, very informative video thanks, I have an LG bottom freezer frig model LFC25776ST/00 that the evaporator fan has quit working on. compressor and both evap and cond fans work ok in test mode, both temp sensors ohm out right according to the temp chart that LG published ( some guy show one in a video I watched on one just like mine and had the manual ). I replaced the main PCB board, but still same thing. Any ideas what else is might be? You seem to know you way around on them, thought I would ask your advise.. Thanks, David
I have replaced the defrost thermostat, and the defrost adaptive timer. The freezer is about 30 degrees and the frig is about 40 degrees. The fans are working and I can feel vibrations from the compressor when I place my hand on it, so I assume it is working as well. The heater is working when I click the light switch 5 times. Any ideas as to what to check next? There is ice buildup though.
Sounds like you're low on refrigerant probably a leak in the evaporator where the copper connects to the aluminum coil
@@fishwithme1 Thank you Richard, if that is where the leak is, is it fixable?
@@OhItsJustMe2 it is fixable but you need a service tech to go in there to fix it it's not something you can do without knowing how. If it's an older refrigerator or you may want to look at replacing it or at least get an estimate on repairs first
@@fishwithme1 Thank you Richard!!! It is older but not really that old (as far as I am concerned anyway lol). Its about 10 yrs old. But if it can be repaired, I will call someone tomorrow. Thank you for responding, I really do appreciate you!!!
If one is75 yrs old--which is exactly what I am. The side by side is around 2 months old. The freezer shows 4 degrees and the fridge is 43. I looks like all of the repair you did would be very costly. I am even afraid to call GE as I do not know what to say or know if I am getting the run around. Any ideas?
Those temps arent bad .. do u have it at the coldest settings?
I'm Dave from Dominican westindied how did you do the manual defrost seeing that it's a adaptable defrost controlle
The procedure is in the video. Should be door switch 5 times if I recall... but it’s in the video. Best of luck!
Thanks for the video. A technician came and replace mines but never changed the harness, the fridge started colding for a few days and now is back to a cool fridge and the freezer frosting up. Please help.
What did they change
Great!! Very easy and infomative!! Thank u for your help! Liked and subbed! Appreciate it!
Thanks!
Frigidaire Model GLHS66EFSB3 there is no power to Compressor before relay, seems something wrong with power board. Some fridge power board is underneath, some has back of fridge. Couldn't find Power board in this model. Need part no. of Power Board as well.
I get that we get a new wiring harness but do the wires go bad? What if we just plugged in the new ADC?
They give us a new because the old one won’t work. It’s wired differently...
The new adaptive control has to control the exact same equipment that is still in place so the new harness has to be the exact same specs as the old. I swapped mine and it worked perfect going on 2 months now. I work on motorcycles and cars(with ecu) so it would be really tough to have to change the cars wiring harness when a part is changed but I get doing it has as a precaution.
@@MrGeoffois The new ADC/harness doesn't use both damper motor connections and so is wired differently according to the manual. I wouldn't risk not replacing the harness when the manual says to and it's included with the new ADC kit.
This "Adaptive Defrost Control Board " is NOT AVAILABLE> What is your ADAPTIVE solution?
Thanks for a very helpful vid. My issue is freezer too cold, fridge too warm (50 degrees.) I already replaced the evap fan, no frost in the freezer, so it seems to be defrosting well. Can't feel much air coming through the damper in fridge. Thinking perhaps the damper door stuck/broken, or switch broken. Any thoughts?
Could be damper door is stuck closed due to bad defrost control module?? Just a guess. Good luck!
Ordered the damper assembly for starters since defrost seems functional. Fingers crossed... gracias!
Dan, did that fix your problem?
I would also check the vent located behind the first frig drawer all the way back on the left side. If that gets blocked or plugged with frost the air won't properly circulate between the frig and freezer.
@@HighSpeedirt1 I think this is my issue still after changing this control board, that is clogged. I get a freezer operating below 0F, I can visually see the door opening and closing by sticking a camera in the back of the fridge and messing with the thermo dial to the fridge, I feel some cool air blowing into the fridge, but when I check the fridge I'm at about 42F, I've seen 39 a few times. I have the dial to the refridgerator side set at 75%, while the factory setting is 50%. I've been inching the dial up more and more to get more of a drop in temp on the fridge, to no increase.....more like millimetering it up. How would I clear this little vent intake on the fridge, would I have to empty my freezer and let it defrost for a while, seems like a mess, or do you think it will defrost slowly by slowly from the standard defrost cyles?
Whirlpool fridge isn't cooling as much . Thermometer says it gets to 50 degrees even though I've set setting pretty cold . Milk and other things spoil in less time . No ice in freezer or fridge walls . Freezer is great 0 degrees . And water has been collecting at bottom of fridge and I've been taking it out every few days once a week maybe . Collects about half a liter in about a week .
I enjoyed the demo ,
Should I buy an adaptive or automatic defrost refrigerator?
All the fancy ones use ADCB’s these days.
video did not help me for my issue (other than letting me know that not having frost removed it as the issue)
But it was entertaining enough that I watched it all and like it - Like your video style.. unlike the other 12 videos I watched on the same subject. May I suggest you add the "make" to the video ...
make is shown at about a minute in-- Frigidaire
Thanks for your video, can't find the replacement for a frigidaire like yours, it's discontinued, i want to die.
great video.thanks so much
Hey my bother how are you ... maybe you can help one more time .. now the control panel number “2” is blinking that is the frizzer side I change it but it goes back to number “2” the damper and the thermostat are working (I tested the thermostat with a multimeter)the frizzer side is working perfect but the refrigerator side is hot cuz the damper won’t open it might be the control panel is not working...
Would not the new control board just have plugged in to the old harness?
Where do you get your fridge parts..? thanks!
Dang i had no clue about the 5 quick bursts on the light to send it into defrost mode. (I bet that's in that manual thing i used to start a campfire...)
My coil is working. But i did the 5 times again to stop and get back into ...errrm... freezer mode. It's making a weird sound like when Jaws was coming.... baaadummm.............baaaaaaduuumm. ... Since you're obviously a musician...
90 bpm, on "1 & " (rest on 2, 3 , 4) " 1 &" (rest 3, 4) .... same tempo keeps pushing the air in intermittent intervals like that.
I hear a constant clicking sound in that housing in the fridge. And at same time in sync with the compressor and fan are going, it's making burst sounds every second or slightly faster, but repeats about a minute or two before it finally constantly pushes air. After watching you take the wires out of the thing,..... handyman. I'm out lol. Tap out. I spent all Sunday watching UA-cam. Time is money. But this vid was by far the best i have seen to explain taking the thing apart. Kudos.
Anyone. Heating element ohm test shows 29 ohms. Manually cycling the defrost mode using light switch in fridge 5 times I hear timer activate but heating element does not heat up. I cant determine is it timer or element since 29 ohms seems like a good resistance level etc
Hello ! I hope you read my cuestion......I changed the ADC and the harness but now the damper is working inverse .....close when the refrigerator is calling for cold and open only when I put the control manually off ....can you help me ? I did all you do....and yes I only used one microswicht of the damper the one next to the foam
It sounds like maybe you just wired something wrong. I’d double check every wire and every connection again. Hopefully you figure it out! Good luck!
where can i find that part. its discontinued all over. anyone can share where to get one pls?
I am having the same issue!!!!! Can't find one anywhere
i'm having the same problem. Can't find one anywhere
What if that bar in the freezer isnt getting hot? How do I fix that?
You'll have to get into diagnostic mode and manually turn it on. If it doesn't turn on then, I'm guessing it's bad and needs replaced. If it does, then it's probably the defrost timer I replaced in the video.
Great video. My whirlpool refrigerator is not cooling properly and I can not find the timer. It is 2017 whirlpool fridge black color up and down doors. Thanks.
Your hearing the damper door motor opening and closing....
What is my freezer not cold but fridge is cold
Why couldn't you just plug the defrost timer into the old wiring?
Vic Vida The old wiring harness is not compatible with the new adaptive defrost control module due to the new one only using one of the damper motor’s plugs.
I did and it works perfect. In no other repair I have done when a part breaks did I change all the wiring to it.
Is the adaptive control board the same as a defrost timer
Yes, just a newer more high version. But it doesn’t the same job.
My fridge Kenmore everything works fans compressor running but not cooling at all..... Any idea what's going on?
Why do you have to change the wire.
I just changed mine,the fan would start/stop 24/7
you made me laugh so much..😂😂
Why replace the wiring harness?
Instruction say you must as the wiring is different.
I’m getting ice but not water and the door outside is wet!
Funny good video
To handle that glue problem get a hair dryer run it over the area where the glue is and it will loosen the glue.
I'm unclear as to why the entire wiring harness needed to be replaced, rather than just the board ???
I bet it’s some tiny part (like a capacitor) in the control board causing it all to go bad. Too bad we can’t figure out what it is. These control boards are $100-200!
3of11
Hey man how are you ?
So your board was defective what did you do ... did you change the board cuz I think I got the same problem...and yes they go for like $150 ....
It's not that hard to lift the thermostats out of the case,makes it so much easier to change wires
why do most refrigeratorformce
why did you change the wire, only the adaptive seems bad.
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