Thank you for watching! Please like and subscribe. If I helped you complete your project, please consider Super Thanks: ua-cam.com/video/mo4g08Jzezk/v-deo.html Thanks, Nick
Do you think that you explain about the tool that it goes instead of the crankshaft position sensor is the right tool that you describe or it’s the one right next to it because in the flywheel there is a little hole that that tool that it is right next to it that one goes in thereif I’m not wrong, I have turned out the whole engine part
I had one of these engines in my F-Type R. It is an astonishing complicated piece of engineering. I am not a mechanic, but love watching your videos. You are clearly very competent, knowledgeable and also are a hell of a good presenter. Thanks very much for this. Straight on to the other two videos.😀
I just bot 2017 autobiography with 40k miles. I love it and watching your videos have connected a lot of dots for me. I already ordered metal heater pipes. I have a peterbilt with plastic pipes. Junk. Thanks
5 STARS - from another UA-camr - think we all would like to say THANK YOU Fella - what a brillaint upload - I am sure like us - its going to help so many out there NICE JOB all round Nick - and Thank You Fella from the team in England
Awesome video thank you... bought an XJ with this engine and am tearing it down to find out how far out the timing has slipped... praying I don't have piston damage like that 😮
Is there a tensioner upgrade that includes a built in spring to keep the chain tight when engines is off as a secondary safety fallback in case the ratcheting mechanism fails? I know the BMW M62 chain tensioners have a spring but no ratcheting mechanism
Great Video. I'm getting ready to do the head gasket on my 2014 L405 where the plastic pipe under the supercharger gave way at 89K. Waiting for videos # 2 and 3.
Ive got a 2016 RR S/C with a p054C, and a p0024. Runs rough and and making a ton of noise from what sounds like the S/C snout bushing. 10 degrees difference btwn actual and desired on Bk 2 exh phaser when running. Im confident it is a chain issue, but will it cause this to go into open loop fault on both banks? No vac leaks that I can find. Appreciate your help.
So when you’re removing that crank pulley 24mm bolt, are you just using that locator pin in the crank sensor slot and the flywheel tooth holder where the starter goes to stop the engine from turning over? Do you use a long breaker bar or do you just use your impact gun? Excellent video by the way.
@@jerrykurl69 exactly. Tooth holder in flywheel and locator pin in crank position sensor hole. The manual instructs using another crank holding tool on the front, so do this at your own risk. I've done a dozen this way. LONG breaker bar. 10.x bolt is lefty loosy. 12.x bolt is righty loosy. If you can find an impact strong enough to break this bolt's torque from the factory, send me a link because I want to buy it! Haha
@@NiXFiX Thanks for the fast reply, I’ll be taking that crank dampner off in the morning to do this time job. I messed up with that crank lock tool that goes in where the crank sensor goes, like you I used the wrong damn one but didn’t catch it before it all went back together. The engine started up fine, ran good and even had good power on the highway but I had cam crank correlation codes, Basically off a tooth. This is not a fun job at all. The 13-14 years I believe are the crossover year, better read that service info carefully, haha.
I replaced cylinder head, head gaskets, and timing components on a 5.0 NA. As you went to remove the crank bolt without the tool to hold the pulley, I was fascinated. But. . . You didn't show how you did it! Or explain it! Just a big ol impact??? And how will you torque it back on without the tool???
My videos are so long, some things get cut. Essentially, I put in the tool where the crank position sensor goes, and then (most importantly) I install the tool that grabs the flywheel teeth where the starter goes. Then, I just loosen the bolt. I don't think any impact will get it. I use a 1/2" drive 24mm socket, 3" extension, and a breaker bar with a pipe over it. Watch the first 9 minutes of this video and it might give you a better idea: ua-cam.com/video/UIy5fdvLg5Q/v-deo.html
Some have had luck turning them 90 degrees. I always just pull them. A tip I might've forgot to mention in the video is to spray penetrating oil in the holes and let it sit for awhile. Then wiggle them around by hand, then slide hammer them out.
Nik the Fix - Really Really Dam Good - WELL DONE Fella EXCELLENT - 5 Stars It's so good I've put a link of ALL 3 Range Rover L405 films onto the British Range Rovers Forum with a link to each film - I am sure your numbers will grow and subscribers - Thank you for posting very interesting all round So Now You are on the British Range Rover Forum Page ! Best wishes EmirateA380
Thank you! If you search my channel you'll find videos on a 2016 RR sport L494 rebuild, a 2013 Jaguar XF rebuild, and a 2016 Discovery Sport rebuild. Thanks for watching!
Looking to buy a 2019 V8 SC with 75k on it. How long do you think it has before it will need the timing chain replaced? Don't think I'm up for a DIY and it looks expensive.
Honestly the timing chain failure on this one was an anomaly in my opinion. Earlier versions had weak rails and the tension piston would literally punch through the rail. This was fixed somewhere in the 2014/2015 model year range. This one failed, in my opinion, because of lack of maintenance. The oil I drained out was BLACK. The only issue I would worry about with yours from an "engine-killing" standpoint would be the plastic water outlet pipe in the front of the engine. I talk about that piece in Part 2.
I’ve been watching a lot of your videos lately as my 2015 Land Rover Range Rover has a timing issue. I’ve gotten to the part where you turn the crankshaft bolt to align the cam shaft markings in the back. All but one lines up. The exhaust camshaft (driver) doesn’t line up. With that being the case does that mean I have a bad valve on the exhaust side (driver)? Is it any other way to check if the valves are bad without taking the head off?
You might have had piston to valve contact, but also maybe not. How far off is it? Yes, you can test a cylinder for holding compression by using a compression tester, but you're too far into the engine to do that. You'll need to do a cylinder leak down test. Go to 39:02 of this video to see me doing it on a discovery sport: ua-cam.com/video/pp6P0HDZ5wk/v-deo.html
@@NiXFiX Thank you so much for replying. It’s off pretty significant. Although when I turned the bolt I didn’t have any interference. I’ll watch the video, and again Thank You So Much!!!
Nick on an L320 (2012 V8 S/C) which looks incredibly similar to your newer Autobiography V8, would you keep the engine in the car for the head gasket job (and new/updated timing parts of course), or would you rather pull it out from the bottom like you would at the dealer while on a lift? I picked one up and don't yet know the condition of the bottom end, after the owner overheated and stalled it. I know I have tiny amounts of coolant inside a couple cylinders after using a scope, and low compression (60psi), but no timing issues off hand. Appreciate your videos x1000 man.
Sorry for delay in response. Long day. Yes, if I had access to a 2 post lift, I would totally pull the powertrain out the bottom. It is a little more steps, but the time saved with the room would be worth it. Currently I only have a 4 post lift that I use for storage. I'll have a new "shop" and 2 post lifts soon. Save for oil starvation, the bottom end of these are pretty solid. I haven't needed to replace any bottom end (crank, bearings, connecting rods) in any of these and I'm about to start my 6th one (not all get videos because they are the same engine).
@@NiXFiX No big deal at all. I was thinking of sourcing some kind of jig to lower the engine / trans / subframe onto (I have a 2 post).... Was thinking of buying a flat, platform style hydraulic jack. My transmission jack doesn't have the surface space. The 5.0 is such a big motor in these engine bays. Would be such a breeze taking the heads off outside of it. Glad you say the bottom ends are solid- I had some coolant in the oil but it was minimal compared to how much oil was in there (9ish quarts). That 2016 of yours, how similar is that S/C V8 to the 2012 L320 5.0 SC engine? Luckily found an online link to the oem rover repair manual since it seems like Bentley/etc never made one... Wanted all the torque specs and timing proc. Thanks a lot for the reply man.
I did a 2011 5.0 years ago (no video). From what I can remember it is nearly identical. The fuse box moved, the supercharger coupler is different, and a few other minor things. But pretty much the same. When I worked at a shop, I would set the subframe on Jack stands and then just lift the entire vehicle up with the lift. The power train and front suspension would stay on the stands on the ground.
@@NiXFiXknow what Nick- I was under it the other day, and because of the true truck frame it's on, it sure looks like the body is lowered onto the entire powertrain and frame, at the factory. I don't see a front subframe that unbolts. I also haven't found anyone online that has dropped it from beneath... I wonder what year you worked on , that came out the bottom?
@@MidknightMechanics I'm under a 2016 Range Rover L405 right now, and you can most definitely unbolt the subframe and lower the engine out of the vehicle. Would you like me to make you a short video?
Rovers all stay away. These cars are the descendants of the British auto industry. Some are extraordinarily beautiful and works of art ; RR, Daimler, Jaguar., to mention a few. There were a number of middle bracket numbers (some sporty or not) that kept the Empire on it’s go. The there were a number of little post war (both) efforts which are what was possible in those times, Prefect, Hillman Minx, etc. ALL are memorable and ALL had mechanical issues. Remember what how the British men did on Saturday and Sundays. When they weren’t at the pub, they they were tinkering with their cars so they would have a ride for the rest of the week..
Hi Nick. I find this video very helpful in having me diagnose what went wrong with my engine. I have a 2017 Range Rover autobiography btw. Where are you located. I would be very interested in having you rebuilding my engine. Hope to hear from you soon.
I live in Arizona. I'm backed up for several months (I have one I'm working on now, and two more in line). This is addition to my full time job. Where are you located? I might be interested in buying it off of you if you're wanting to unload it.
I’m actually trying my hand at fixing this myself. I have found that the drivers side has failed. I’m having a major issue with removing the fan from the clutch. It is a right hand turn. My issue is the fan is on very tight. Is there a special tool that I need to remove it? I’m using a 36mm flat wrench but it’s just not moving.
Your firing order is incorrect sir...the passengers side bank is 1357, drivers side is 2468...so your #6 piston is actually #4...firing order is the same for N/A 5.0l engines as well
Cylinder numbers and firing order are two different things. I have the workshop manual and you are incorrect sir. The RH/passenger side bank is 1,2,3,4 and the LH/driver side bank is 5,6,7,8. The firing order is 1,5,4,2,6,3,7,8. Here you go: drive.google.com/file/d/1EyAv90rvbKF-p5YEl1n5rUWc0NHJL4ci/view?usp=sharing
@b.koetjesonstrucking2729 your using the words firing order and cylinder order interchangeably and they are not . I wouldn't want you to change oil on my law mower.
Also the cylinder is cylinder 4 by current standards but its also cylinder 6 in some of the land rover worm shop manuals , so your both right in that regard but homie calling it firing order is a goof troop.
Good to see the trolls are alive and well, you may have noticed that the OP didn't respond, probably because he's noticed the mistake, you'll also notice that before YOU showed up there was no hostility, so congrats Troll...you've disrupted a calm discussion hope you're happy
Timing chains don't stretch. There not a rubber band. Timing chain guides can have wear on them over a period of time. The tensioner keeps the chain from slacking ans slapping because of it's length. Failure of the system is mostly from, lack of oil changes, failed tensioner, broken guides or cheap broken guide bolts. It's a poor design from the get go.
Probably a question of semantics, but timing chains can wear due to time/lack of maintenance. The links wear and slop increases, which makes the chain physically longer. You can see this in practice with chainsaw chains-they get longer as they break in, and over time they stretch as they wear, hence the reason there's a tension adjustment that has to be checked/adjusted with every use.
Thank you for watching! Please like and subscribe. If I helped you complete your project, please consider Super Thanks: ua-cam.com/video/mo4g08Jzezk/v-deo.html
Thanks,
Nick
Do you think that you explain about the tool that it goes instead of the crankshaft position sensor is the right tool that you describe or it’s the one right next to it because in the flywheel there is a little hole that that tool that it is right next to it that one goes in thereif I’m not wrong, I have turned out the whole engine part
I’m extremely thankful for this video, I had this exact failure on mine and in the process of fixing this has saved me so much trouble
I had one of these engines in my F-Type R. It is an astonishing complicated piece of engineering. I am not a mechanic, but love watching your videos. You are clearly very competent, knowledgeable and also are a hell of a good presenter. Thanks very much for this.
Straight on to the other two videos.😀
Thank you for your kind words!
I just bot 2017 autobiography with 40k miles. I love it and watching your videos have connected a lot of dots for me. I already ordered metal heater pipes. I have a peterbilt with plastic pipes. Junk. Thanks
Thanks for watching!
Did this work and help prevent any other issues?
5 STARS - from another UA-camr - think we all would like to say THANK YOU Fella - what a brillaint upload - I am sure like us - its going to help so many out there
NICE JOB all round Nick - and Thank You Fella from the team in England
I commended you for tackling such a job by yourself. And then on top of it to record it explain is exceptional.
Your work on these videos is seriously appreciated.
Thank you for the kind words. Your contribution is recognized and greatly appreciated!
Awesome video thank you... bought an XJ with this engine and am tearing it down to find out how far out the timing has slipped... praying I don't have piston damage like that 😮
Is there a tensioner upgrade that includes a built in spring to keep the chain tight when engines is off as a secondary safety fallback in case the ratcheting mechanism fails? I know the BMW M62 chain tensioners have a spring but no ratcheting mechanism
Great Video. I'm getting ready to do the head gasket on my 2014 L405 where the plastic pipe under the supercharger gave way at 89K. Waiting for videos # 2 and 3.
Awesome. I'm working on the engine and filming right now. Might be a couple of weeks.
Ive got a 2016 RR S/C with a p054C, and a p0024. Runs rough and and making a ton of noise from what sounds like the S/C snout bushing. 10 degrees difference btwn actual and desired on Bk 2 exh phaser when running. Im confident it is a chain issue, but will it cause this to go into open loop fault on both banks? No vac leaks that I can find. Appreciate your help.
So when you’re removing that crank pulley 24mm bolt, are you just using that locator pin in the crank sensor slot and the flywheel tooth holder where the starter goes to stop the engine from turning over? Do you use a long breaker bar or do you just use your impact gun? Excellent video by the way.
@@jerrykurl69 exactly. Tooth holder in flywheel and locator pin in crank position sensor hole. The manual instructs using another crank holding tool on the front, so do this at your own risk. I've done a dozen this way. LONG breaker bar. 10.x bolt is lefty loosy. 12.x bolt is righty loosy. If you can find an impact strong enough to break this bolt's torque from the factory, send me a link because I want to buy it! Haha
@@NiXFiX Thanks for the fast reply, I’ll be taking that crank dampner off in the morning to do this time job. I messed up with that crank lock tool that goes in where the crank sensor goes, like you I used the wrong damn one but didn’t catch it before it all went back together. The engine started up fine, ran good and even had good power on the highway but I had cam crank correlation codes, Basically off a tooth. This is not a fun job at all. The 13-14 years I believe are the crossover year, better read that service info carefully, haha.
Subscribed, great videos, excellent videography and explanations.
Are you happy with the quality of the Moca timing change kit? Comparable to OEM
Please include cylinder head bolts torque numbers and sequence , thanks!
I replaced cylinder head, head gaskets, and timing components on a 5.0 NA. As you went to remove the crank bolt without the tool to hold the pulley, I was fascinated. But. . . You didn't show how you did it! Or explain it! Just a big ol impact???
And how will you torque it back on without the tool???
My videos are so long, some things get cut. Essentially, I put in the tool where the crank position sensor goes, and then (most importantly) I install the tool that grabs the flywheel teeth where the starter goes. Then, I just loosen the bolt. I don't think any impact will get it. I use a 1/2" drive 24mm socket, 3" extension, and a breaker bar with a pipe over it. Watch the first 9 minutes of this video and it might give you a better idea: ua-cam.com/video/UIy5fdvLg5Q/v-deo.html
Hi there, thank you for the great video. Question - do you think you can get the valve covers off with the injectors still in?
Some have had luck turning them 90 degrees. I always just pull them. A tip I might've forgot to mention in the video is to spray penetrating oil in the holes and let it sit for awhile. Then wiggle them around by hand, then slide hammer them out.
@@NiXFiX Thank you very much sir.
Nik the Fix - Really Really Dam Good - WELL DONE Fella EXCELLENT - 5 Stars
It's so good I've put a link of ALL 3 Range Rover L405 films
onto the British Range Rovers Forum with a link to each film -
I am sure your numbers will grow and subscribers - Thank you for posting very interesting all round
So Now You are on the British Range Rover Forum Page !
Best wishes
EmirateA380
Thank you! If you search my channel you'll find videos on a 2016 RR sport L494 rebuild, a 2013 Jaguar XF rebuild, and a 2016 Discovery Sport rebuild. Thanks for watching!
Looking to buy a 2019 V8 SC with 75k on it. How long do you think it has before it will need the timing chain replaced? Don't think I'm up for a DIY and it looks expensive.
Honestly the timing chain failure on this one was an anomaly in my opinion. Earlier versions had weak rails and the tension piston would literally punch through the rail. This was fixed somewhere in the 2014/2015 model year range. This one failed, in my opinion, because of lack of maintenance. The oil I drained out was BLACK. The only issue I would worry about with yours from an "engine-killing" standpoint would be the plastic water outlet pipe in the front of the engine. I talk about that piece in Part 2.
@@NiXFiX Great. Thanks for the tip and the quick response. 👍
I’ve been watching a lot of your videos lately as my 2015 Land Rover Range Rover has a timing issue. I’ve gotten to the part where you turn the crankshaft bolt to align the cam shaft markings in the back. All but one lines up. The exhaust camshaft (driver) doesn’t line up. With that being the case does that mean I have a bad valve on the exhaust side (driver)? Is it any other way to check if the valves are bad without taking the head off?
You might have had piston to valve contact, but also maybe not. How far off is it? Yes, you can test a cylinder for holding compression by using a compression tester, but you're too far into the engine to do that. You'll need to do a cylinder leak down test. Go to 39:02 of this video to see me doing it on a discovery sport: ua-cam.com/video/pp6P0HDZ5wk/v-deo.html
@@NiXFiX Thank you so much for replying. It’s off pretty significant. Although when I turned the bolt I didn’t have any interference. I’ll watch the video, and again Thank You So Much!!!
Nick on an L320 (2012 V8 S/C) which looks incredibly similar to your newer Autobiography V8, would you keep the engine in the car for the head gasket job (and new/updated timing parts of course), or would you rather pull it out from the bottom like you would at the dealer while on a lift? I picked one up and don't yet know the condition of the bottom end, after the owner overheated and stalled it. I know I have tiny amounts of coolant inside a couple cylinders after using a scope, and low compression (60psi), but no timing issues off hand. Appreciate your videos x1000 man.
Sorry for delay in response. Long day. Yes, if I had access to a 2 post lift, I would totally pull the powertrain out the bottom. It is a little more steps, but the time saved with the room would be worth it. Currently I only have a 4 post lift that I use for storage. I'll have a new "shop" and 2 post lifts soon. Save for oil starvation, the bottom end of these are pretty solid. I haven't needed to replace any bottom end (crank, bearings, connecting rods) in any of these and I'm about to start my 6th one (not all get videos because they are the same engine).
@@NiXFiX No big deal at all. I was thinking of sourcing some kind of jig to lower the engine / trans / subframe onto (I have a 2 post).... Was thinking of buying a flat, platform style hydraulic jack. My transmission jack doesn't have the surface space. The 5.0 is such a big motor in these engine bays. Would be such a breeze taking the heads off outside of it. Glad you say the bottom ends are solid- I had some coolant in the oil but it was minimal compared to how much oil was in there (9ish quarts). That 2016 of yours, how similar is that S/C V8 to the 2012 L320 5.0 SC engine? Luckily found an online link to the oem rover repair manual since it seems like Bentley/etc never made one... Wanted all the torque specs and timing proc. Thanks a lot for the reply man.
I did a 2011 5.0 years ago (no video). From what I can remember it is nearly identical. The fuse box moved, the supercharger coupler is different, and a few other minor things. But pretty much the same. When I worked at a shop, I would set the subframe on Jack stands and then just lift the entire vehicle up with the lift. The power train and front suspension would stay on the stands on the ground.
@@NiXFiXknow what Nick- I was under it the other day, and because of the true truck frame it's on, it sure looks like the body is lowered onto the entire powertrain and frame, at the factory. I don't see a front subframe that unbolts. I also haven't found anyone online that has dropped it from beneath... I wonder what year you worked on , that came out the bottom?
@@MidknightMechanics I'm under a 2016 Range Rover L405 right now, and you can most definitely unbolt the subframe and lower the engine out of the vehicle. Would you like me to make you a short video?
is it possible to get in touch with you, i am trying to do a timing chain and running into some issues,
Great Video , thanks!
You're welcome! More to come!
Rovers all stay away.
These cars are the descendants of the British auto industry. Some are extraordinarily beautiful and works of art ; RR, Daimler, Jaguar., to mention a few. There were a number of middle bracket numbers (some sporty or not) that kept the Empire on it’s go. The there were a number of little post war (both) efforts which are what was possible in those times, Prefect, Hillman Minx, etc. ALL are memorable and ALL had mechanical issues. Remember what
how the British men did on Saturday and Sundays. When they weren’t at the pub, they they were tinkering with their cars so they would have a ride for the rest of the week..
Is it necessary to take the front clip off to replace the timing chain?
No. But it makes for a clearer video and MUCH better ergonomics.
Hi Nick. I find this video very helpful in having me diagnose what went wrong with my engine. I have a 2017 Range Rover autobiography btw. Where are you located. I would be very interested in having you rebuilding my engine. Hope to hear from you soon.
I live in Arizona. I'm backed up for several months (I have one I'm working on now, and two more in line). This is addition to my full time job. Where are you located? I might be interested in buying it off of you if you're wanting to unload it.
I’m actually trying my hand at fixing this myself. I have found that the drivers side has failed. I’m having a major issue with removing the fan from the clutch. It is a right hand turn. My issue is the fan is on very tight. Is there a special tool that I need to remove it? I’m using a 36mm flat wrench but it’s just not moving.
I’m in Charleston SC btw.
new head, repeat the bottom end. if you stick a used engine in there you might redo the job soon! that way you know it's all done and done right
Looks a lot harder to pull the heads on the full size Range vs the Sport
You'll love this car when done assuming you bought it right
Your firing order is incorrect sir...the passengers side bank is 1357, drivers side is 2468...so your #6 piston is actually #4...firing order is the same for N/A 5.0l engines as well
Cylinder numbers and firing order are two different things. I have the workshop manual and you are incorrect sir. The RH/passenger side bank is 1,2,3,4 and the LH/driver side bank is 5,6,7,8. The firing order is 1,5,4,2,6,3,7,8. Here you go: drive.google.com/file/d/1EyAv90rvbKF-p5YEl1n5rUWc0NHJL4ci/view?usp=sharing
That's for the 4.6. I also have the shop manual. You can also check out Atlantic British, they show firing order and cylinder numbers as well.
@b.koetjesonstrucking2729 your using the words firing order and cylinder order interchangeably and they are not . I wouldn't want you to change oil on my law mower.
Also the cylinder is cylinder 4 by current standards but its also cylinder 6 in some of the land rover worm shop manuals , so your both right in that regard but homie calling it firing order is a goof troop.
Good to see the trolls are alive and well, you may have noticed that the OP didn't respond, probably because he's noticed the mistake, you'll also notice that before YOU showed up there was no hostility, so congrats Troll...you've disrupted a calm discussion hope you're happy
Timing chains don't stretch. There not a rubber band. Timing chain guides can have wear on them over a period of time. The tensioner keeps the chain from slacking ans slapping because of it's length. Failure of the system is mostly from, lack of oil changes, failed tensioner, broken guides or cheap broken guide bolts. It's a poor design from the get go.
Hahaha, timing chains definitely stretch. I’ve seen 2 links of stretch in the single row chains like these. Same from vw/audi, mini/bmw, Mercedes…..
Probably a question of semantics, but timing chains can wear due to time/lack of maintenance. The links wear and slop increases, which makes the chain physically longer. You can see this in practice with chainsaw chains-they get longer as they break in, and over time they stretch as they wear, hence the reason there's a tension adjustment that has to be checked/adjusted with every use.
fix it.
Why not just pull the engine? You're almost there anyway. Then address many issues.
I typically don't pull engines for top end work, but in this case I had to. Watch parts 2 and 3. :)
Great video.👏🏼