Coloring with Iron Acetate, Filling the Grain

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  • Опубліковано 11 жов 2024
  • I ask my good friend and professional finisher Brian Miller to shoot a video that is slightly out of the box using mix medium. There seems to be a trend among woodworkers incorporating metal and other mediums into their work. Here Brian shows how finishing can be part of the design. He also shares generously many of his tips and tricks.

КОМЕНТАРІ • 106

  • @johnmcglynn4102
    @johnmcglynn4102 3 місяці тому

    Excellent lecture. Detailed in all the right spots. Couldn't thank you more.

  • @eralinteriors
    @eralinteriors 6 років тому +4

    YOU ARE MY NEW FAVORITE HOW-TO GUY! Thank you for the additional tips along the way, the STELLAR gold-infused oak finish (very unique), and incredibly professional production values of the video itself. Man! What i wouldn't give for a weeklong shadow opp in the workshop! Thanks so much for your time & talent! You rock!

    • @bnmiller1000
      @bnmiller1000 4 роки тому

      Rebecca, thank-you for yourkind words, sorry I haven't ;looked at this post in a while.

  • @outerbanksproductions_videos
    @outerbanksproductions_videos 4 роки тому +2

    Im just a few minutes into this video along with some scrolling. I can't believe the content. I really need to watch it start to finish. Looks like great content!

  • @dixielp
    @dixielp 3 роки тому +1

    I stumbled upon your video by chance. You just demonstrated exactly what I have been wanting to do but wasn’t sure how to do it. I was honestly going to see about trying to apply stain straight to the grain only with small brushes. I’m glad I found this!

  • @framergp
    @framergp 9 років тому +10

    great video, I never thought of using a different color to fill open grains. this gives me so many finishing ideas. thanks.

  • @patfinnerty1115
    @patfinnerty1115 6 років тому +1

    William thank you Once again and thank you Brian for sharing your skills I am all ways concerned when it comes to glueing and finishing you guys are about the best thing one can watch in Australia

  • @billy19461
    @billy19461 3 роки тому +2

    Never seen that before. I really enjoyed every minute and learned a lot.

  • @dunep6465
    @dunep6465 4 роки тому +1

    Really enjoyed that Brian. Well Done!!!

  • @projekt6_official
    @projekt6_official 4 роки тому +1

    Fantastic video and beautiful result!

  • @mitchwoodwork
    @mitchwoodwork 9 років тому +1

    Nice finish, and very clear video. Thanks for posting

  • @JamesWheeldon
    @JamesWheeldon 9 років тому +1

    All I can say is WOOOWWW!!!! Thanks for the education on finishing!

  • @Lu-cho
    @Lu-cho 7 років тому +1

    You are a professional.
    You know what you are doing.

  • @davidjohnston1971
    @davidjohnston1971 8 років тому +3

    I use a similar technique after ebonizing. Instead of the paste and colors I use plaster of Paris to back fill the grains. You can use food colors to tint it. Use the same application and cleanup methods once it has dried. I do use catalyzed lacquer but if you don't have an HVLP and want to brush on. You can use a varathane finish. Thin it down with water for the sealer coat, then top coat as usual. Do NOT use polyurethane as it has an amber tint to it that will discolor your filler. The only drawback to varathane is the drying/curing times.

    • @esat189
      @esat189 2 роки тому

      Plaster of Paris is great. It gives a flatter look. I love using colors different than the stain.

  • @deletedaccount5250
    @deletedaccount5250 7 років тому +1

    Awesome presentation and great looking finish thank you both 🍀

  • @pamcarr4003
    @pamcarr4003 5 років тому +1

    Great video! Very, very helpful! Thank you for sharing this great information!

  • @MarkLindsayCNC
    @MarkLindsayCNC 9 років тому +1

    Nice work! I've not used pre-cat lacquer before. In the past I used a vinyl sanding sealer and catalyzed varnish. Looks like with the pre-cat lacquer, I'd have 1 less product to buy. I'll have to try it.

  • @labrat7357
    @labrat7357 6 років тому +2

    Very informative with some great tips. I have to say it is not a finish I am ever likely to use on my projects.

  • @robertbuzzeo6256
    @robertbuzzeo6256 7 років тому +1

    WOW. Thank You! This looks great!!

  • @738polarbear
    @738polarbear 4 роки тому

    Excellently explained ,thank you so much .

  • @jarrodfrankum
    @jarrodfrankum 9 років тому +8

    When making the acetate there are a couple of techniques you could do to speed up the process. Heat your vinegar first. This will increase the reaction rate of converting the iron oxide from the wool. Also. You can add Hydrogen Peroxide in after you added the heated vinegar. The Peroxide will oxidize the wool much much quicker. This will allow the acetic acid to work more efficiently. Wont take anywhere near 4-5 days.
    Someone give this a try. You will love the results. Gotta love chemistry.

    • @hardnox6655
      @hardnox6655 9 років тому

      +Jarrod Frankum How much hydrogen peroxide do you recommend? I use iron acetate quite a bit and am intrigued by your comment.

    • @jarrodfrankum
      @jarrodfrankum 9 років тому +2

      +Hardnox if you use the 3% stuff that you get at the drugstore, it may take a lot as its pretty weak. Heating it up would make it work faster. I don't know how much you are making at a time, so it's hard to tell. You can't use too much. Hydrogen peroxide degrades into water as light hits it so just experiment with it

    • @hardnox6655
      @hardnox6655 9 років тому +1

      Jarrod Frankum Thanks for the info. I usually mix about a gallon at a time. The mix ratio I use is 3 cups vinegar to one 0000 pad which has worked well for me

    • @jarrodfrankum
      @jarrodfrankum 9 років тому +1

      +Hardnox go for using a cup. It will dilute the mixture so you may have to experiment a bit, but it won't take near the time to dissolve the wool

    • @hardnox6655
      @hardnox6655 9 років тому

      Thanks very much for the info. I'll give it a try on the next batch.

  • @tubelilous
    @tubelilous 7 років тому

    One of my fav "colouring". First read it in fine woodworking from the 70's. The only trouble is wood that does not have tannic acid.

    • @jerroldjones2180
      @jerroldjones2180 5 років тому

      You can solve that problem by coating with a strong tea before the iron acetate.

  • @gravityalwayswins1434
    @gravityalwayswins1434 9 років тому +1

    Excellent video. Thank you.

  • @esat189
    @esat189 2 роки тому

    Using the stain formula early before full aging will give a gray weathered look to the wood.

  • @R0gue6729
    @R0gue6729 2 роки тому

    Beautiful cerusing. I love it

  • @andrewbobro3374
    @andrewbobro3374 2 роки тому

    Interesting. A very modern way to get a finish on the very classic "canvas" of wood.

  • @kevindeal602
    @kevindeal602 4 роки тому

    Hello Brian. Kevin Deal here. The wood finisher/ furniture repair man from Oceanside, CA. We've met at your SAPFM presentation at Cerritos and also at you last SDFWA presentation. Still enjoying your book, great reference asset. My question is how is this different from an ebonizing technique. With ebonizing I use white vinegar, haven't tried the apple vinegar. Two years ago I did a ceruse finish on an oak table and chairs. The Mohawk filler always works great but with my job I actually used plaster of paris to fill the grain of the black oak. Hope to see you again soon. Thanks for the video!

    • @bnmiller1000
      @bnmiller1000 4 роки тому +1

      Hi Kevin! While iron acetate can give some very dark results, especially oin woods like walnut that contain significant tannic acid, woods like maple don't contain tannic acid & require the addition of tannic acid, then logwood extract, followed by ferrous sulfate. Let me know if i can be of any help!
      Brian

  • @BackyardWoodworking
    @BackyardWoodworking 9 років тому +1

    Good finishing tips.

  • @oliverwood51
    @oliverwood51 9 років тому

    this is a professional quality video. This is not surprising as it is shown under william NG's site
    It is a very instructive one ...

  • @qwazy01
    @qwazy01 2 роки тому

    Awesome!! Ty for sharing

  • @michebre
    @michebre 2 роки тому

    Thank you, very informative video.

  • @esat189
    @esat189 2 роки тому

    Lovely.. Would love to see the entire finished piece. I have often used Metallica in my stainless ed pieces as well as painted finishes. It makes them pop

  • @JunkWorkshop
    @JunkWorkshop 8 років тому

    High professionality.Thank you soo much

  • @scpatl4now
    @scpatl4now 5 років тому +1

    This is only going to work on a high tannin type of wood (oak is one), but if you want to use it on any type wood, get some tannic acid (order it from amazon...its cheap) and instead of using water at the beginning mix some of the tannic acid with water until it dissolves and use that. That will blacken any wood when you add the ebonizing liquid. I have no idea why he says its not ebonizing since that is exactly what he is doing.

  • @wadesaunders583
    @wadesaunders583 7 років тому +1

    very nice!

  • @plastic9990
    @plastic9990 4 роки тому +1

    Really nice work! ❤️🇵🇰

  • @micahkirman5970
    @micahkirman5970 8 років тому +1

    Well Done!

  • @giangipuff
    @giangipuff 2 роки тому

    You were clear like no one I heard before!! I am astonished. If I may make a quick question: instead of the laquer, would it be possible to use shellac finish?
    I am an amateur instrument maker from Italy and having an answer would be awesome. thanks

  • @bnmiller1000
    @bnmiller1000 9 років тому +2

    Wilson, for the demo I did not finish the back. If it were a real job, would have colored the back as well & given the owner the option of filling the back.

  • @4dan2
    @4dan2 4 роки тому

    Nice!

  • @you569
    @you569 9 років тому +1

    love it

  • @lucasarchuleta5386
    @lucasarchuleta5386 5 років тому

    Brilliant

  • @aagehansen3797
    @aagehansen3797 9 років тому +1

    An insight into a great finishing technique. Its time to experiment with doing this with some standard staining colors and a nice grain contrast. Can you repost the filler name you used please?

    • @bnmiller1000
      @bnmiller1000 9 років тому

      Aage: The product was an oil-based filler made by the "Mohawk" Company. It was neutral in color, so you can add a colorant like artists oils, or Japan Colors, or in this case I used the metal powders which are not actually gold, but a mix of brass and other metals.

    • @yellowcat1310
      @yellowcat1310 2 роки тому

      look up ceruse

  • @bnmiller1000
    @bnmiller1000 9 років тому

    Mark, catalyzed varnish is a better and more durable finish, so the choice is your's!

  • @mikebernd2396
    @mikebernd2396 6 років тому

    I thought the point of the filler, along with coloring the grain, was to create a perfectly smooth surface to provide a glass-like finish. At the end I still see the grain which as not been filled and leveled.

  • @danwhitehead4913
    @danwhitehead4913 Рік тому

    Dose this work for all woods and how deep dose it penitrate . I would like to use this process for the wood bed in my truck. I was just wondering if scratches will expose the light wood color or will it penitrate deeper than just the surface.

  • @boblevey
    @boblevey 4 роки тому +1

    I use iron sulfate, that way I don’t have to wait for the chemical reaction between the steel wool and acetate.

  • @Charlie-pk6lj
    @Charlie-pk6lj 6 років тому

    The one thing I don't see you talk about is using compressed air if you don't have a good filtering system on your compressed air take cheese cloth and wrap it around your air spinet to absorb moisture in the line.

  • @WILSON.1
    @WILSON.1 9 років тому

    Awesome job! Did he finish the back side the same way? And does he do both sides at a time for each step?

  • @sannyander4311
    @sannyander4311 7 років тому

    i love it

  • @crosisofborg5524
    @crosisofborg5524 4 роки тому +1

    White vinegar results in a darker color than the 5 times more expensive apple cider vinegar.

  • @dtaylor5076
    @dtaylor5076 4 роки тому

    I am trying to find out if I can ebonize an old table and chairs that have stain and finish? I want to enonize them so do I have to strip and sand then ebonize?

  • @JDCrae
    @JDCrae 6 років тому

    Nice finished product. Your information however is incorrect. Stickley's finishing method used ammonia fuming, which is the only method the company employed for a very long time to achieve his signature mission finish. There was no water and vinegar solution used.

  • @sbswae1552
    @sbswae1552 7 років тому

    Hey, Will, great video!
    Really interested in filling grain with metal flakes. In particular, I'm looking for a silver color. Where did you source your gold colored flakes?

    • @rootvalue
      @rootvalue 7 років тому +1

      sb swae Try www.didspade.com. Dirt cheap, and I've used their flake for years with success.

  • @davidtarullo1915
    @davidtarullo1915 8 років тому

    Do you think this would work with an oak hardwood floor?

  • @tinayates9032
    @tinayates9032 Рік тому

    Where do you buy yhe gallon of lacquer?

  • @RalphKolva
    @RalphKolva 9 років тому

    Curious as to why he referred to the Iron Acetate as Not an Ebonizing technique? I've typically seen it called ebonizing.

    • @bnmiller1000
      @bnmiller1000 9 років тому

      Hi Ralph! Had I started with Logwood Extract, allowed the surface to dry, then applied the Iron Acetate it would have been positive black!

    • @timhyatt9185
      @timhyatt9185 9 років тому

      Ralph Kolva I think because depending on how "strong" you make it, you can get simply a "gray-weathered" look as opposed to the deep blackening.

  • @twestgard2
    @twestgard2 2 роки тому

    5:10 Oh, sure, the nylon stockings belong to the wife. Suuuuurrre.

  • @YongHeo-d2b
    @YongHeo-d2b Рік тому

    Anybody know the brand for the powdered filler?

  • @gojessego
    @gojessego 9 років тому

    Filling the grain and color striking the pores are two separate things. The end result was color in the open pores and not filled pores.

    • @antmallett6065
      @antmallett6065 9 років тому

      Does colour in the open pores not fill them? Please explain the difference?

    • @gojessego
      @gojessego 9 років тому +1

      No, filling the pores with pore filler (colored or not) is used to level the surface of the wood so when a topcoat is applied the result is a completely flat surface, like a piano. Color striking does not level the surface but colors the open pores. Sometimes you have to apply pore filler a second time to get a smooth surface.

    • @antmallett6065
      @antmallett6065 9 років тому

      Jesse G Thanks for clarifying, that makes perfect sense. How does one match the colour when filing pores, or is the wood and the filler stained at the same time? I.e , after applying and sanding the filler?

    • @gojessego
      @gojessego 9 років тому +2

      Paste wood filler comes in different colors. Depending on what kind of pore filler you choose it can be colored to match using UTC's, powdered pigments, or dyes. I color match by eye and make a sample board prior to working on my actual piece. I take the color sample fully through the finishing process.

    • @antmallett6065
      @antmallett6065 9 років тому

      Jesse G Thanks for the info, much appreciated.

  • @jaywoodson2231
    @jaywoodson2231 7 років тому

    Very good teacher, but I just don't like the coarse grained oak.

  • @broadpalette
    @broadpalette Рік тому

    Good god. It would
    Take forever to finish a job in the real world

  • @kurtcorgan4358
    @kurtcorgan4358 2 роки тому

    Instead of masking tape, they do make gloves.

  • @stephenkinnane8994
    @stephenkinnane8994 7 років тому

    Is it possible to "thin" the iron acetate solution in order to achieve a gray color?

    • @lisa-marieshy9673
      @lisa-marieshy9673 7 років тому

      Stephen Kinnane yes you can either dilute with more vinegar or add water to your iron acetate. I would pour some of your iron acetate into a separate container/jar then dilute small amounts at a time until you achieve desired color. Good luck ;)

  • @BrinkHouse
    @BrinkHouse 9 років тому +1

    Not the prettiest example but a useful set of techniques here, nonetheless. Thanks!

  • @DasAlbatross
    @DasAlbatross 6 років тому +16

    What sort of trauma does a man go through to make him become a professional finisher?

    • @zarbond21
      @zarbond21 4 роки тому

      The Answer My Friend is Blowing In The Wind... The Answer is Blowing In The Wind
      😎
      👕
      👖

    • @douglee650
      @douglee650 4 роки тому +1

      Have some appreciation for a master craftsman

    • @NickleJ
      @NickleJ 7 місяців тому

      Capitalism.

  • @roceb5009
    @roceb5009 6 років тому

    Took a beautifully black-stained piece of wood and made it look cheap and tacky.

  • @jimburns348
    @jimburns348 4 роки тому

    Get on with it. We don’t need to be spoon fed.

  • @Lu-cho
    @Lu-cho 7 років тому

    18:29
    yes, Fake painter doing that all the time.
    i hate it.
    And the grabs the bucket full of messy fingers. .
    and brushes and messy paint.

  • @ronmiller7916
    @ronmiller7916 4 роки тому +1

    TIP...point the damned finished piece at the camera. Are you freaking kidding me?

  • @dogromdogrom9515
    @dogromdogrom9515 8 років тому

    حد يعملثواب ويترجم مايقول

  • @akquicksilver
    @akquicksilver 4 роки тому

    Beautiful but way too much work.

  • @IanSmithKSP
    @IanSmithKSP 2 роки тому

    An expertly done, heinously ugly door.

  • @imanutnur7
    @imanutnur7 Рік тому

    I am happy that I don't live in CA and have to adhere to all the liberal's rules.

  • @markharris5771
    @markharris5771 5 років тому

    I’m sorry, it’s not to my taste at all.

  • @piousminion7822
    @piousminion7822 6 років тому

    "Lacquer Retarder" is offensive. Please call it "Differently Lacquer-Abled".