I almost got rid of my first Ender back in 2019 for this exact reason. I couldn't figure out why it would stay level for a long stretch then suddenly go wonky. Turns out, I had two crappy v-rollers and I was making the problem worse by scraping and prying on the bed trying to remove printed parts before it had cooled completely. Now I have removable spring steel build surfaces on all my printers, I'm a little more patient, and I know what to look for in new rollers. Don't know how things are there, but a bag of 25 rollers here will usually have 4-5 bad ones. Great content as always. Thanks for sharing this important tip.
Great tip, I had the exact same problem on my Ender 3 V2 last year, took me a long time to figure out where that inconsistency came from! I was tired of the dealing with the wheels anyway so I went straight to dual MGN12 rails with a simply mount from Thingiverse, perfect stable since and no maintenance or adjustment needed.
I've not had this problem yet, but I know how much work it is to get it level. I'm thinking of going spring free and just using bolts to lock it in place
Mate i was on the verge of throwing my Ender into a damn river from the frustraton it caused me XD. I have leveling problems since day 1 and after a few prints it got worse and after some inspection i found that this plate was wobbly. These wheels also deteriorated extremely fast. Thanks man you just put an end (hopefuly) to my frustration
I just encountered this problem on my printer, after managing to figure out how most things on my printer worked I just couldn't get my bed to stay level, even with a bl touch because as soon as the bed moved the leveling changed, I got a cheap linear rail kit to fix that and not have to deal with this anymore
I've been having leveling problems, but it's definitely not the same issue. I made a new Z-Stop to lower the table to increase the spring pressure against the leveling screws, so they don't back out... but they're STILL backing out (the OEM Z-Stop made me lift the table so high that the screw-wheels were all so loose they were spinning free). The Z-Stop I made lowers the table almost 1/8" more and that increased the tension on the wheels to help them not back out... but it still happens pretty bad on very long prints, so I just taped them for now. I made the mistake of adding a little Loc-Tite to the threads of the leveling bolts but that just made it impossible to level, because it caused the bolts to spin (so spinning the wheels did nothing but spin the bolts). Watching this video now and looking for some 3d files for a "stop" for the wheels, so I can zero them and then make sure they don't move again. Seems like such an obvious design flaw that I just can't believe they made them like this in the first place... but at-least they should have fixed the design by now. I just wanted to mention this for other people that might be having the same problems. There's definitely design flaws in the Z-Stop (height) and the wheels that are used to level the table.
Yeah the endstop switches are very inaccurate. I have always loved the idea of not having to mess with auto levelers because theyre not necessary and just extra cost. Klipper, with a properly calibrated endstop and endstop phase enabled has saved me so many headaches. No more baby stepping, same height every time with a manual level and a bed mesh. Endstop phase basically makes your stepper motor end on the same step phase everytime, so it uses the mechanical endstop for reference then goes to the phase you calibrated. Absolutely genius for people that dont wanna play with ABL.
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I almost got rid of my first Ender back in 2019 for this exact reason. I couldn't figure out why it would stay level for a long stretch then suddenly go wonky. Turns out, I had two crappy v-rollers and I was making the problem worse by scraping and prying on the bed trying to remove printed parts before it had cooled completely. Now I have removable spring steel build surfaces on all my printers, I'm a little more patient, and I know what to look for in new rollers. Don't know how things are there, but a bag of 25 rollers here will usually have 4-5 bad ones. Great content as always. Thanks for sharing this important tip.
Great tip, I had the exact same problem on my Ender 3 V2 last year, took me a long time to figure out where that inconsistency came from! I was tired of the dealing with the wheels anyway so I went straight to dual MGN12 rails with a simply mount from Thingiverse, perfect stable since and no maintenance or adjustment needed.
U beauty
problem im having now with my ener v2. thanks.
I've not had this problem yet, but I know how much work it is to get it level. I'm thinking of going spring free and just using bolts to lock it in place
Mate i was on the verge of throwing my Ender into a damn river from the frustraton it caused me XD. I have leveling problems since day 1 and after a few prints it got worse and after some inspection i found that this plate was wobbly. These wheels also deteriorated extremely fast. Thanks man you just put an end (hopefuly) to my frustration
Thanks Dyfyant
I just encountered this problem on my printer, after managing to figure out how most things on my printer worked I just couldn't get my bed to stay level, even with a bl touch because as soon as the bed moved the leveling changed, I got a cheap linear rail kit to fix that and not have to deal with this anymore
I've been having leveling problems, but it's definitely not the same issue. I made a new Z-Stop to lower the table to increase the spring pressure against the leveling screws, so they don't back out... but they're STILL backing out (the OEM Z-Stop made me lift the table so high that the screw-wheels were all so loose they were spinning free). The Z-Stop I made lowers the table almost 1/8" more and that increased the tension on the wheels to help them not back out... but it still happens pretty bad on very long prints, so I just taped them for now. I made the mistake of adding a little Loc-Tite to the threads of the leveling bolts but that just made it impossible to level, because it caused the bolts to spin (so spinning the wheels did nothing but spin the bolts). Watching this video now and looking for some 3d files for a "stop" for the wheels, so I can zero them and then make sure they don't move again. Seems like such an obvious design flaw that I just can't believe they made them like this in the first place... but at-least they should have fixed the design by now. I just wanted to mention this for other people that might be having the same problems. There's definitely design flaws in the Z-Stop (height) and the wheels that are used to level the table.
My problem was that the z switch was unreliable. Spent weeks leveling...
Yeah the endstop switches are very inaccurate. I have always loved the idea of not having to mess with auto levelers because theyre not necessary and just extra cost. Klipper, with a properly calibrated endstop and endstop phase enabled has saved me so many headaches. No more baby stepping, same height every time with a manual level and a bed mesh. Endstop phase basically makes your stepper motor end on the same step phase everytime, so it uses the mechanical endstop for reference then goes to the phase you calibrated. Absolutely genius for people that dont wanna play with ABL.