Man I love Star Trek, it's my favourite MCU movie for sure, and the Fillennium Malcon is my favourite of all their rocket ships even if it's piloted by a Frackin Toaster! 'Live long and may the Smeg be with you!' classic quote.
Not that it matters but that model came for Star Wars 2 Empire Strikes Back. Its a different franchise than Star Trek, and follows a different production narrative. Im much more of a Star Trek fan than Star Wars.
Can't see the point of such a large expensive screen. The standard Ender 3 type black and white with rotary dial is more than sufficient - not least because I use Octopi for my main control - the Printer interface is only every used for bed levelling. I would rather they spend the money on upgrading the rest of the printer.
If someone really wants a big screen they can just buy a cheap laptop and put linux on it or something and use it to control the printer. I did that on my first printer and it worked great.
The point of the big screen is to make it look good and more people (who aren't really the 3D printing types, maybe) are more willing to buy it cause 'big screen = good printer' or something
I've had issues with btt boards killing my sd cards, so not surprised you had issues. As for the z probe height, that's a marlin issue. Basically if you have soft endstops enabled, marlin z height adjustment will increment the number but the head won't go past z0. You can disable them with the marlin ui. Finally, the kickstarter thing was totally a hype thing and a bit of a scam. They went around telling people there would be a lot available for $250 usd, then required people to pay a $10 deposit to secure that price, and they still ended up not having enough for those people, and telling them to use the $10 pledge and manually change it to $250. I ultimately ended up not ordering one because of this, and I'm glad I didn't
They also did something fishy with next lowest tier, they always added and substracted available slots so that it always appeared that they had just a few left to lure in new backers.
The z offset thing drove me nuts with my Kossel till I worked out to disable the soft endstops.. I'm about to retrofit a biqu h2 to my tronxy d01 and would love to have all the wiring including the stepper motor wires go through a neat single cable solution (a lock of some sort would be cool..) I wonder if the wires in the cable can handle everything going on up there at the H2 at once
cool 🙂 I was wondering if something like peg holders - ua-cam.com/video/fPCI75CLLDc/v-deo.html (well a version of them could hold the print bed better then magnets, Or ua-cam.com/video/1G8lGECOe1U/v-deo.html (print bed sheet has 4 holes at the corners ) and you drop in what looks like a rivet, that screws into the frame holding the print bed in place (ie - see 1:53 for what I mean :)
I actually like the new thinking of that HDMI-idea. Just hear me out. Every time I upgrade something on my printer it's a pain to disconnect all those wires.. Just think about it, you have 2 leads for the heater cartridge, 2 for the temp, 2 for fan1, 2 for fan2, ~3 for the bed level sensor and 4 for the stepper motor. That's SIX tiny, flimsy connectors in total. And added up thats 15 wires running from the motherboard to the head. To disconnect this you use roughly 5 seconds instead of minutes. Well, maybe not hdmi was the best choice, maybe display port would be better since they lock into place?
The HDMI connector for power to the print head seems like an awful idea. I can totally see how someone inexperienced would try to plug the output to the head into a monitor and cause all kinds of damage. It's simply not the right tool for the job
Thank you for a nice review, Angus. BTT took critic and changing some of the issues you told about. Keep on the good work! Would be cool if you could get your hands on the finished product and give it a proper review.
I very much doubt that it's a PEI coated sheet. A lot of manufacturers are quick to claim something they don't actually have so it's interesting that Biqu are just calling it a "Spring Steel Sheet" and not a "PEI Coated Spring Steel Sheet." Also, when doing a tour of the various marketplaces for PEI sheets they seem to jump from Ender 3 sized 235x235mm up to Tronxy sized 300x300mm, no 250x250mm sheets to be found. Also, wasn't that spaceship from Blakes 7 or something like that? :)
THAT's seven inches? Oh my lord... I somehow thought that would be way smaller. I just ordered a paneldue 7" for my self-built printer... lol. I guess I'll have a monstrous screen then haha
I'm not sure why all the negativity towards the HDMI cable. I appreciate a lot of the opinions presented by these 3D printing UA-camrs, but it's clear they often don't have a lot of development experience. I'm an engineer in the consumer electronics industry for 12 years and I think the use of the HDMI cable makes a lot of sense. We actually use HDMI for power and signal delivery in a ton of prototype applications. In many ways it is superior to the old D-sub/RS-232 type of connectors. The most important factor is the cycle life. HDMI cables usually have a significantly higher cycle life meaning you will start to have issues with a D-sub after you unplug and plug it in about 50 times. An HDMI cable can go for about 5,000 to 10,000 cycles. There are also a lot of forms that the cable itself can take. We use a lot of HDMI ribbon cables in dynamic applications. The are great for moving back and forth along an axis. The pull force on an HDMI cable is high enough as well that you should experience no issues with the "friction" fit of the cable in the socket. Personally, I really like the idea of the HDMI and I hope they stick with it. They should rotate the port 90 deg and use a ribbon. That would be great.
Says something about the community thats you've created here when you throw in that 'star trek' bit and instead of reeing the comment section gets in on the fun.
I did wonder that, but surely the bed level adjust should be independent of that... otherwise the only way to get first layer height after mesh levelling would be to plunge the nozzle into the bed, and then raise it up.
the HDMI connector is a dealbreaker on this thing. There aren`t any current ratings for those cables. They are made for low voltage, low current data transfer, not for heating a hotend. Even if BTT provides special, save HDMI cables that wont stop stupid people from putting their $2 tv HDMI cable into it and in doing so burning their house down. Other than that: The connector will wear out. Thats a freaking no go. No stress relief in sight, only to make it look fancy over making it safe.
I was looking for your review of the Biqu b1, if you made one I couldn't find it. Others have a lot of good things to say about it. I would be interested in your opinion.
I don't know why a new 3D printer would need a Raspberry Pi to get remote access. It's about time printers had all this stuff built in. The bed levelling needs to be bullet proof and that means those magnets need to be way better too.
I draw only two conclusions so far: 1- It is being shipped way too soon in its development cycle and 2- You do not know your scifi ships. :-) That is the world-famous Millenium Falcon from Stae Wars. George Lucas ( now Disney ) will be sending you some kill robots disguised as lawyers soon. lol
Thing is, you will be needing an HDMI adapter along with it..... Honestly though, I can see people actually plugging regular hdmi cables in it and wondering why it wont work..
I thought the HDMI being included is brilliant. It's one of the lightest yet capable connections of that size and very common so easily replaced. It's clear why they went with it so I'm not sure why you took issue as it's leaps and bounds better than 99% of the printers out there. I too love the extruder and run them on all my printers(previously ran Orbiter+Phaetus Dragons) and they are superior to most and extrude quite fast although you may be the kind of guy running 0.8-1mm nozzles at super high speeds and in that case this is not the hotend for you but everyone else, buy. The extruder fan sucks but a 40mm can be adapter for use quite easily. Only downside is price now that it's 500-550 USD.
Yes, it is sounds good to have HDMI, but, just to note, the previous their model B1 printer used USB-C and it was NOT regular USB-C cable, but special from BIBQ, if not aware of, so it will not be a surprise if special HDMI cable will be needed again to obtain from BigTree in case a replacement cable needed.
IMO, display port makes more since I think, mostly because of the locking connector, but also because of conductor count and overall current carrying capabilities. Leaves more headroom and less likely a custom cable would need to be used. When it comes to using the idea of repurposing a modern cable standard for the purpose of wire management, display port seems to make the most logical sense for this use case.
Not really a smart idea considering HDMI connections are notorious for breaking or becoming loose when exposed to excessive use or vibration (the Sony amp/video deal debacle from some years ago, in the car industry ringing a bell in my mind). Personally, i would've gone with a custom magnetic port, if that's the intent (to have easy to remove/swapable heads). I don't remember the exact code, but there's even a mil spec magnetic port used for quick disconnecting when removing something in a hurry, like a laptop or a emitter/receiver box. Bigger, but on the same page, but a lot more common is the one that's used by medical or firefighting vehicles. The idea being that those vehicles need to get going fast, so there's no time to deal with connections (battery chargers, data transfer). So yeah, no idea why anyone would go with HDMI of all things, i was quite shocked to see it on the stream, when there's much better same-same options out there. And whilst, yes, someone could make the argument of saying "ain't cheap", i doubt it's something difficult to engineer one based on existing parts, and then printing it. All you need to find are the ring magnets and pin terminals. If CR-10 s(plural) could be shipped with various printed bits in the early days, i doubt making a quick disconnect port is that much of a big deal. Heck, there might even be one out there to license or ask permission to use for a cheap price on the machine for example(most creators are magnanimous like that).
BIQU has very crappy interfaces, both graphically and functionally. They offer low prices for good hardware but software is where they are able to save from the development costs.
Oh and HDMI cable is definitely not designed for this use, mechanically, it was meant to go behind a TV, monitor, to console, PC, DVD player, stationary in one word. In this application where it constantly moves, it will wear out quick. They should have at least designed some kind of locking mechanism.
Looks like the first knock off Hemera has arrived. It's a great extruder assembly, cooling fans for it are a bit of a pain though. I'd be interested to see how close that extruder is to the Hemera dimensionally, will the coolers interchange?
HDMI is known as being a pretty robust port, but in high vibration application (like here), a display port (which has a locking mechanism integrated) would have been better. Or even better: JST type connectors.
I know it's a joke... The really funny part though... In some areas they are still closed! I was wondering what was with the long hair too. Then I remembered that I've been saying better get a hair cut for the better part of two weeks now, so....... Hahahaha
Exactly. A LED strip might not be necessary in a well lit film studio, but for normal people, especially if the printer is in an enclosed case, I wouldn't want to use it without LEDs.
One of my clients got the same version so I was able to set it up for him. The USB input works fine but I haven't tried the micro SD slot as of yet. When I was setting it up for him I also had issues with the SD card input on the screen. Once I started printing from the USB input that was on the screen things were working fine. I also had the bed leveling issue. I found that when I changed the leveling increments from 0.01 to 0.1 it would then start working while setting up the Z offset. I'd be interested in know if this fixes your issue as well. We've only been able to do a couple of prints so far but it would be interesting to find out if the machine retains the EPROM settings over the long term.
I was having the same issues with the Ender 5-plus' BL touch implementation. Even sending M851 commands directly to change the offset, there was something strange going on. It seemingly would apply the offset randomly. Sometimes live, sometimes not at all. Sometimes not until the next print started and crashing into the bed. I have a sneaking suspicion it might have something to do with the buffer being busy with G1 commands, plus when it sends the M503 to recall the stored data, or the M420 for actually activating the mesh. The up/down issue is caused by software endstops being applied. It will stop it from going down but log the change (stupidly) M211 S0 to turn them off fixed that little quirk but we eventually gave up on the printer as we could never fix the offset issue. Also, forcing a bed level before every single print instead of storing and recalling a mesh was asinine.
I’m am so glad I’m not the only one that doesn’t like them using Kickstarter and I’m extremely glad you stress the issues with this, I am very disappointed that the other UA-cam channels just glaze over this. They lose a lot of respect from me by ignoring this. Wondering if you can convert the extruder to get rid of the HDMI connector.
I still remember everyone excited for the buccaneer, the peachy printer and others and wondering why I didn't back them. This is more just a marketing tactic in my eyes but the lack of accountability remains!
That’s one of my main issues with this Angus. You buy a product or preorder something and you have rights. With Kickstarter you have no rights. I did back the cr6e on Kickstarter and I’m having lots of issues.
I don't know why this kind of clone printers exist. They don't work properly, hardware and software are not developed properly. Maybe as a DIY project but I want my Printer work right from the box, I don't want to spend hours modifying them to work. That's why I went with Prusa mini and so far, no prints were lost, only thing I have done as "service" was cleaning filament pulley from debris.
Hi for anyone interested I have spent a lot of time investigating the Gcode corruption issue mentioned in this video and basically it comes down to electrical interference primarily from the display rather than any cable. I note that in Angus`s video the review printer as an exposed back to the display. I surmise from my research that the display being quite close to the main electronics is the problem with this product. In most cases the BTT displays work well on Ender 3 & 5 upgrades because the display is remote to the main electronics. Put it adjacent to the display and all shit happens. I wrapped a couple of layers of tin foil in a Ikea sandwich bag behind the display on my HEVO build and all the immediate issues I had stopped. Angus, I look forward to your personal take on Ikea sandwich bags as opposed to your frequent trips to Aldi ! Best Boothy Image Link: www.dropbox.com/s/h92r0yc39uerhsz/16071195203360.jpg?dl=0
Thank God I got a Prusa MK3S and avoided all this nonsense (seriously, an HDMI connector?). And yes I'm aware its a lot more and its getting a bit outdated HW wise but the thing is an absolute workhorse. Oh and thank you for your honest review (as always) Angus!
Thanks I always enjoy your video. Would you do a Christmas present video. I want to buy myself a resin printer for Christmas I was going to buy myself Mars but there are so many horror stories I think no. So I’m now looking at a Anycubic mono. If you needed to to buy a printer that would just work what wood it be ? My usages case is I very occasionally want to print missing parts for vintage valve radios mainly knobs. Thanks stay safe regards Chris
Had very similar issues with BTT TFT70 screen regards the corrupt gcode, also in simulated mode it started corrupting the screen display. Definitely firmware issues. My screen also as a dicky SD card reader. Viewing angles are rubbish and the touch screen is not as good as the 35TFT screen. Edit: Please refer to my recent comment - my revised estimation is this is not firmware but electrical interference from the display being near interference.
It's not that clever if you understand current and wire thickness, and how the typical consumer sees a cable. "Same plug - will work" is a pretty common belief. Expect stories of blown up TVs from this, aswell as potential fires from too thin cables.
@@tin2001 Do you really think many people will be plugging their TV into this? Or the fact that power is not feeding FROM the device, but INTO it? Other devices have used this standard for power and data connection, yet no dangers there.
The USB and card reader on the screen is probably going through a USB channel, which tends to impact print quality. The 7 inch touch with a Pi behind it is something I'm running now, as an outboard controller (my printers are in an enclosure), and I love it. Chris Riley has reviewed OctoPi on a touch screen. At this point, I would say any small amount of attention to hardware gets you a good machine. The real trick is getting the firmware working right.
HDMI is just a good connector, ppl use it to connect GPUs to laptops through a pcie port for the wifi module. And also even though it's friction fit, it is quite sturdy, and it's not like it get's tugged on during it's operation so it doesn't matter and it's actually good that they use a common port instead of something custom.
The Z offset issue is that whatever the last known "Z 0 position" was, the touchscreen wont let you manually move the Z axis lower than that until you reset "re-run" the Z homing. That's why you couldn't move the z down until it was raised above the previous home point
Great video as always mate. Sure it has some weirdness, but, l too like the inovative hotend/extruder setup. Considering HDMIs are designed to be pluged in and left in situ, I'm pretty sure it is not going to last long on the X carriage end, it's gonna wiggle contunually and the contacts will weaken causing high resistance connections. Then the machine will have to rely on the thermal runnaway protection to avoid a potential fire. Of course, I hope I'm wrong. Also, I don't have this printer so not talking from experience, just theory.
I have a Biqu B1. BIQU uses their (bigtreetech) TFT touch screens. They have their own CPU and communicate with the main board via serial port (sending regular g code commands). The SD card slot in the display is not on the mainboard and all data needs to be sent to the mainboard via the serial port. My guess is that the speed (baud rate) is set too high (250000) and so things get corrupted during transfer. I learned: Don't use the touch screen mode! Use marlin and, if possible, in combination with OctoPrint. One nice thing is that the mainboard USB interface is a real USB interface and not a USB serial port adapter. It looks like a serial port but you can choose speeds like 2000000+ and there is no corruption (speed is just the USB speed and it has internal error correction etc). So, using a RaPi with the mainboard USB interface works perfectly. Also, the TFT sends G-code but since it's not a direct marlin output, as the Marlin mode is, it doesn't actually know what the mainboard is doing: It can only interprete the g-code being sent from the mainboard, but things like position is apparently isn't sent. So all it can do is try to keep track (which doesn't work great as seen there). USE THE MARLIN MODE TO SET THE PROBE OFFSET! USE MARLIN MODE TO SAVE. that works... forget the TFT ffs!
HDMI for power supply is not only strange, but plain stupid and dangerous! That alone is a Don't-Buy-Reason. 1. HDMI current rating is about 50mA. All cables are made for (and just for) that! Of course you can take more of the wires together to get a bigger diameter. But there's a gigantic bunch of other solutions specific for applications like that. I don't know why smb would intentionally engineer a fire-hazard into such a machine. 2. There's no reasonable priced HDMI Cable out there which is made for installing on moving parts. (There are ones, but overpriced, because of Pro-Use in Stage-Tech) 3.Friction-Fit on moving part (No more comment neccessary, it's just dumb, and dangerous if the connection fails) I don't know how a company (even a chinese) would invest time and effort to engineer such a thing (Just beause it looks cool??!). Aside of beeing loads of suitable connector solutions out there, chinese companies are world champions in copying also nearly every solution of Phoenix Contacts, WAGO, and others (E.g. those green PCB screw terminals, they are made originally by Phoenix Contacts).
Actually HDMI is that smart part. Compare to a huge and heavy RS232 connector. U really can't find as much pins as HDMI on small and light formfactor. I've had few robot using HDMI for all the joints. Which is totally fine. And your print head doesn't move that much. friction is less of a problem. Tape should fix it.
If btt/BIQU was to abort their project and leave all their backers hanging, terms or no terms of Kickstarter, how bad of a black eye would it give btt/BIQU? How bad would such a decision have on their company sales in the 3D printer world? The overall 3D printer world as a whole if figuratively small. I don’t think btt/BIQU would Or will let down their backers.
I do like the extruder tech, but puzzled by that HDMI connection and the poor quality build plate. Everything else looks like glossings on what could be fundamentally a poor to mediocre printer. I have backed the CR-6 SE and that was a mistake, luckily with time and effort it's now up and running like it should, but I'll never ever do Kickstarter again for backing a 3D printer.
HDMI cables are ubiquitous these days. DB9, DB25, and VGA cables, not so much. Also HDMI has lots of conductors. Alternative might be an Ethernet cable if you don't need so many conductors and it has a rudimentary latch.
Could you do a video about Will Cogley's biomimetic 3D printed hand. /2ooCvuMrjkE With your experience in robot building I thought you would really appreciate the work he's doing.
Those wird lines and glitches while printing is baudrade 250000 causing that, zits and blobs, I'm guesstin skr mini v3 is there, printing from usb has some problems with those motherboards. Whats wird is that noone is saying anything about it beside You here ;)
Yes indeed, I believe that is the Double D (DD) from Star Treck. Shorthand for Decade Dodo i think. Colloquially known as the Discus by Star Treckers, or Discust by Space Wars fans.
I see many people complaining about HDMI cable. Previous Biqu printer have a USB_C cable. But how do you suppose to make a connection between motherboard and adapter board on the hotend? Artillery printers has a special flat cable which is esthetically good but you wont find out that easily. This solution was made to prevent disassembling a whole printer if you need to change something on the hotend.
"almost as beneficial as a bowden setup" i mean my bowden setup is 60-40g :P but that's like 120g lighter than bmg if i'm right? but there's lighter stuff for sure. not to mention nimble
Having backed Peachy Printer, Tiko, and Obsidian, I don't know where the dislike of Kickstarter is coming from. Seriously, if you can't afford to set that money on fire then you should not use it to back something. At least I got out of the Ono (Oh, no!) before they got my money. I have had some success on backing things too.
That's the same shit I had with my Geeetech A30. And this was my first printer, believe me, this was a pain in the a$$... 🙄 After months of frustration, I thrown the original mobo in the trash and bought a Duet Maestro 2... Since that, it's great!
Firmware is wrong in deciding it's base Z position. It won't allow you to go under Z0.0 but on the screen buttons are connected to increasing/decreasing the displayed value AND to moving by 1mm. So visual representation and machine itself desynchronize.
It baffles me why manufacturers are still wasting engineering time and BOM cost on these contactless bed probes when Lulzbot (may they rest in peace) solved this problem with way less hardware years ago: Just put four contact points around the edge of the bed, don't make the bed out of some noodly material that will warp all over the place, and the prints will come out perfect every time.
I am never backing a printer on crowdfunding platforms ever again. M3D Pro by M3D cured me of that idea. Never delivered, never met feature promises on the ones that were delivered. Crap company with crap products.
Absolutely, Kickstarter is a lottery. And the naff printed carbon fibre effect and LED lighting, are they trying to appeal to the Razer fans? Looks like a bit of a Frankenstein's monster.
Sounds very buggy. As someone who owns some bigtreetech s42b’s and having looked thru the firmware on github- i wouldnt buy any of there equipment again.
The interface on the screen need serious polishment. This bug is classic, here's how it goes: a button fires an event. The event decreases the counter and sends the signal to the machine to move the head down. Great? NO! You can't just go sown so the macine stops if it's at its limit. Well... but the counter is not auto linked... if you don't receive the signal back from the machine telling you that it went down you don't know if you should count down or not. That's actually something that could change the design a lot because is this hardware ready to tell if any operation required were succesful? Actually I honestly don't know up until where it should be, but at least inside the code you should check your limits before performing operations. And that's something the interface needs to take care about.
As to the issues you have found with the printer using it in the more or less real world, is the whole point of getting out these demo pre-production printers. Kkankfully those at BIQU are listening to you bloggers and are already fixing those major issues befor production. My question is what is the latest that BIQU has to get the bugs worked out in order thnmake their December delivery schedule? I’m one of those superearly bird backers that reserved a spot to get one of the first printers off the production line. With that said I guess my bigest question is do I need to get a raspberry pie? What will it do for me when connected to the BX?
ok sooo what 0.o i mean yeah screw on cables are nice, but i don't wanna trust a wobbly-by-design printhead to keep hdmi perfectly 100% connected all the time... and pretty sure those cables and connectors weren't designed for high power heating elements either...
Cue all the triggered trolls that can't take a joke and think you don't know what a ship from Spaceballs looks like...
Its the fillennium malcon from star trek !
@@MakersMuse "May the force be with your, Spock." Stargate, is such a great show. 10/10
You all have it wrong! Everyone knows the best show is The Expanse withCaptain Kirk and his side kick Chewie, duh!
@@MakersMuse no, the fillennium Malcom is from Fire flown
Live long and perspire....
Haha ''I think it's from Star Trek'' I see what you did there
have to say, as a huge star wars fan, when he said that, that hurt me a bit
I expected to see a large thread of mad people from that one ;-)
Trololol 😂
That hurts a bit
I hope he wasnt being serious lol.
11:43
You have a offended so many people with that comment and I love it
Man I love Star Trek, it's my favourite MCU movie for sure, and the Fillennium Malcon is my favourite of all their rocket ships even if it's piloted by a Frackin Toaster!
'Live long and may the Smeg be with you!' classic quote.
I heard Falcon in the Middle is an underappreciated classic.
Not that it matters but that model came for Star Wars 2 Empire Strikes Back. Its a different franchise than Star Trek, and follows a different production narrative. Im much more of a Star Trek fan than Star Wars.
Star trek 🤣
Holding a Millenium Falcon: "I think it's from Start Trek".
Facepalm
Troll level : Infinity!
Geek Cred : -10
@@Jeffrey400 Humour Cred: +20
I will assume he was just trying to be funny
My favorite spaceballs quote: “use the force, Harry” - Bowser
"Yer' a wizard, Luke!" - Ancient One.
This printer looked pretty promising. I laughed out loud when I saw the HDMI connection tho, manufacturers are getting.. crafty
Can't see the point of such a large expensive screen. The standard Ender 3 type black and white with rotary dial is more than sufficient - not least because I use Octopi for my main control - the Printer interface is only every used for bed levelling. I would rather they spend the money on upgrading the rest of the printer.
If someone really wants a big screen they can just buy a cheap laptop and put linux on it or something and use it to control the printer. I did that on my first printer and it worked great.
@@JonathanKayne Yup. You can find used laptops very cheap.
@@shadow7037932 I found one of those old netbooks for half the price of the cheapest Pi I could find
I'm gonna get that big screen and hook it to a raspberry pi and see if it can run crisis
The point of the big screen is to make it look good and more people (who aren't really the 3D printing types, maybe) are more willing to buy it cause 'big screen = good printer' or something
I've had issues with btt boards killing my sd cards, so not surprised you had issues.
As for the z probe height, that's a marlin issue. Basically if you have soft endstops enabled, marlin z height adjustment will increment the number but the head won't go past z0. You can disable them with the marlin ui.
Finally, the kickstarter thing was totally a hype thing and a bit of a scam. They went around telling people there would be a lot available for $250 usd, then required people to pay a $10 deposit to secure that price, and they still ended up not having enough for those people, and telling them to use the $10 pledge and manually change it to $250. I ultimately ended up not ordering one because of this, and I'm glad I didn't
I had no idea about the $10 deposit thing... that's mega dodgy??? How many companies do I have to add to my naughty list this year.
Agreed with the BTT corrupting SD card on the touchpanels.
They also did something fishy with next lowest tier, they always added and substracted available slots so that it always appeared that they had just a few left to lure in new backers.
The z offset thing drove me nuts with my Kossel till I worked out to disable the soft endstops..
I'm about to retrofit a biqu h2 to my tronxy d01 and would love to have all the wiring including the stepper motor wires go through a neat single cable solution (a lock of some sort would be cool..) I wonder if the wires in the cable can handle everything going on up there at the H2 at once
Star trek? STAR TREK!?
That's obviously from starship trooper
I wonder what a printer designed and built by him would look like .
I made this one! :P ua-cam.com/video/6O91ussQeus/v-deo.html
cool 🙂 I was wondering if something like peg holders - ua-cam.com/video/fPCI75CLLDc/v-deo.html (well a version of them could hold the print bed better then magnets,
Or ua-cam.com/video/1G8lGECOe1U/v-deo.html (print bed sheet has 4 holes at the corners ) and you drop in what looks like a rivet, that screws into the frame holding the print bed in place (ie - see 1:53 for what I mean :)
@@MakersMuse I love that build! But what if you made? designed a production\consumer line printer? What would you go for?
well he has designed some
But is it 8k ready?
I think it's from star trek 🙄🤣
Love your videos, you've taught me so much! Keep it up, comrade!
I actually like the new thinking of that HDMI-idea. Just hear me out.
Every time I upgrade something on my printer it's a pain to disconnect all those wires.. Just think about it, you have 2 leads for the heater cartridge, 2 for the temp, 2 for fan1, 2 for fan2, ~3 for the bed level sensor and 4 for the stepper motor. That's SIX tiny, flimsy connectors in total. And added up thats 15 wires running from the motherboard to the head.
To disconnect this you use roughly 5 seconds instead of minutes.
Well, maybe not hdmi was the best choice, maybe display port would be better since they lock into place?
Edit, shouldn't usb-C be best suited? Since it can carry insaine amounts of power.
The HDMI connector for power to the print head seems like an awful idea. I can totally see how someone inexperienced would try to plug the output to the head into a monitor and cause all kinds of damage. It's simply not the right tool for the job
Knowledge isn’t free and usually not cheap. That one mistake will last a lifetime. Let Darwin do his thing.
Thank you for a nice review, Angus. BTT took critic and changing some of the issues you told about. Keep on the good work!
Would be cool if you could get your hands on the finished product and give it a proper review.
That is such a Mum face at 3:32 "it works fine!"
You're all too kind, this printer seems like a nightmare.
I very much doubt that it's a PEI coated sheet. A lot of manufacturers are quick to claim something they don't actually have so it's interesting that Biqu are just calling it a "Spring Steel Sheet" and not a "PEI Coated Spring Steel Sheet." Also, when doing a tour of the various marketplaces for PEI sheets they seem to jump from Ender 3 sized 235x235mm up to Tronxy sized 300x300mm, no 250x250mm sheets to be found.
Also, wasn't that spaceship from Blakes 7 or something like that? :)
I think I saw it on a firefly episode
THAT's seven inches? Oh my lord... I somehow thought that would be way smaller. I just ordered a paneldue 7" for my self-built printer... lol. I guess I'll have a monstrous screen then haha
I'm not sure why all the negativity towards the HDMI cable. I appreciate a lot of the opinions presented by these 3D printing UA-camrs, but it's clear they often don't have a lot of development experience. I'm an engineer in the consumer electronics industry for 12 years and I think the use of the HDMI cable makes a lot of sense. We actually use HDMI for power and signal delivery in a ton of prototype applications. In many ways it is superior to the old D-sub/RS-232 type of connectors. The most important factor is the cycle life. HDMI cables usually have a significantly higher cycle life meaning you will start to have issues with a D-sub after you unplug and plug it in about 50 times. An HDMI cable can go for about 5,000 to 10,000 cycles. There are also a lot of forms that the cable itself can take. We use a lot of HDMI ribbon cables in dynamic applications. The are great for moving back and forth along an axis. The pull force on an HDMI cable is high enough as well that you should experience no issues with the "friction" fit of the cable in the socket. Personally, I really like the idea of the HDMI and I hope they stick with it. They should rotate the port 90 deg and use a ribbon. That would be great.
Says something about the community thats you've created here when you throw in that 'star trek' bit and instead of reeing the comment section gets in on the fun.
Haha yeah, everyone here is awesome
@@MakersMuse
Not true! I'm here. 😁
The reason it won't go down further on Z is likely because "SOFTSTOP" is activated and it won't allow it to move below it's virtual 0 offset.
I did wonder that, but surely the bed level adjust should be independent of that... otherwise the only way to get first layer height after mesh levelling would be to plunge the nozzle into the bed, and then raise it up.
Yeah but that should be an error condition or simply limit acknowledgment of input commands & movement
@@Henry680 It's marlin, so it simply won't move below.
the HDMI connector is a dealbreaker on this thing. There aren`t any current ratings for those cables. They are made for low voltage, low current data transfer, not for heating a hotend. Even if BTT provides special, save HDMI cables that wont stop stupid people from putting their $2 tv HDMI cable into it and in doing so burning their house down.
Other than that: The connector will wear out. Thats a freaking no go. No stress relief in sight, only to make it look fancy over making it safe.
I was looking for your review of the Biqu b1, if you made one I couldn't find it. Others have a lot of good things to say about it. I would be interested in your opinion.
Hi Angus,
you said you made a factory file from an old Gcode.
could you tell me how to do this?
Thanks in advance!
I don't know why a new 3D printer would need a Raspberry Pi to get remote access. It's about time printers had all this stuff built in.
The bed levelling needs to be bullet proof and that means those magnets need to be way better too.
I draw only two conclusions so far: 1- It is being shipped way too soon in its development cycle and 2- You do not know your scifi ships. :-) That is the world-famous Millenium Falcon from Stae Wars. George Lucas ( now Disney ) will be sending you some kill robots disguised as lawyers soon. lol
Ah yes! That's USS Price-is-Right from Starwars (The spin-off')
11:42 *nerd triggering intensifies*
I want to get the printer just for the extruder...
Looks like it's very much inspired by the e3d Hemera extruder/hot-end
Thing is, you will be needing an HDMI adapter along with it..... Honestly though, I can see people actually plugging regular hdmi cables in it and wondering why it wont work..
What are you doing with all these tested damaged bad printers?
I thought the HDMI being included is brilliant. It's one of the lightest yet capable connections of that size and very common so easily replaced. It's clear why they went with it so I'm not sure why you took issue as it's leaps and bounds better than 99% of the printers out there. I too love the extruder and run them on all my printers(previously ran Orbiter+Phaetus Dragons) and they are superior to most and extrude quite fast although you may be the kind of guy running 0.8-1mm nozzles at super high speeds and in that case this is not the hotend for you but everyone else, buy. The extruder fan sucks but a 40mm can be adapter for use quite easily. Only downside is price now that it's 500-550 USD.
Yes, it is sounds good to have HDMI, but, just to note, the previous their model B1 printer used USB-C and it was NOT regular USB-C cable, but special from BIBQ, if not aware of, so it will not be a surprise if special HDMI cable will be needed again to obtain from BigTree in case a replacement cable needed.
IMO, display port makes more since I think, mostly because of the locking connector, but also because of conductor count and overall current carrying capabilities. Leaves more headroom and less likely a custom cable would need to be used.
When it comes to using the idea of repurposing a modern cable standard for the purpose of wire management, display port seems to make the most logical sense for this use case.
They should have at least used display port because there’s no royalty and it locks
Not really a smart idea considering HDMI connections are notorious for breaking or becoming loose when exposed to excessive use or vibration (the Sony amp/video deal debacle from some years ago, in the car industry ringing a bell in my mind). Personally, i would've gone with a custom magnetic port, if that's the intent (to have easy to remove/swapable heads).
I don't remember the exact code, but there's even a mil spec magnetic port used for quick disconnecting when removing something in a hurry, like a laptop or a emitter/receiver box. Bigger, but on the same page, but a lot more common is the one that's used by medical or firefighting vehicles. The idea being that those vehicles need to get going fast, so there's no time to deal with connections (battery chargers, data transfer).
So yeah, no idea why anyone would go with HDMI of all things, i was quite shocked to see it on the stream, when there's much better same-same options out there. And whilst, yes, someone could make the argument of saying "ain't cheap", i doubt it's something difficult to engineer one based on existing parts, and then printing it. All you need to find are the ring magnets and pin terminals.
If CR-10 s(plural) could be shipped with various printed bits in the early days, i doubt making a quick disconnect port is that much of a big deal. Heck, there might even be one out there to license or ask permission to use for a cheap price on the machine for example(most creators are magnanimous like that).
if you haven't seen star battle you haven't had a child hood
How to make friends with the Trekkies and the SW fantasy crowd with 1 remark ;)
Wonder how many star wars fans he pissed off with that joke
BIQU has very crappy interfaces, both graphically and functionally.
They offer low prices for good hardware but software is where they are able to save from the development costs.
Oh and HDMI cable is definitely not designed for this use, mechanically, it was meant to go behind a TV, monitor, to console, PC, DVD player, stationary in one word.
In this application where it constantly moves, it will wear out quick.
They should have at least designed some kind of locking mechanism.
Looks like the first knock off Hemera has arrived. It's a great extruder assembly, cooling fans for it are a bit of a pain though. I'd be interested to see how close that extruder is to the Hemera dimensionally, will the coolers interchange?
Its quite smaller in it's dimensions compared to a hemera, teaching tech shows them side by side in his video.
HDMI is known as being a pretty robust port, but in high vibration application (like here), a display port (which has a locking mechanism integrated) would have been better.
Or even better: JST type connectors.
so far 9 dislikes probably from Star Wars fans
You have brushed your hair in a weird style for this video Angus it looks like a WWII German helmet
Its how it looks washed. Isn't it aweful
Angus, are hair salons closed in Australia? hahaha just kidding thanks for the video!
I know it's a joke... The really funny part though... In some areas they are still closed!
I was wondering what was with the long hair too. Then I remembered that I've been saying better get a hair cut for the better part of two weeks now, so....... Hahahaha
he famously has crazy hair
If you get the hotend to retrofit one of your own printers, how do you deal with the HDMI silliness?
if i got this, 100% need to put a new magnet on it, other than that seems decent! , im sure a fan duct can be printed for a 5015 and other stuff
Yeah agreed a good fan duct for better cooling and it'll be one of my fav extruders for sure.
Yeah, that SD card slot bug would really annoy me too Angus! You said acceleration/jerk were slow, could you share what the actual values where?
the standard values on those machines are 500mm/s²
Thats acceleration , for jerk try 10- 12 mm/s^2
The LED Strip "does not have any functionality". It does, I had to manually add one to mine.
Exactly.
A LED strip might not be necessary in a well lit film studio, but for normal people, especially if the printer is in an enclosed case, I wouldn't want to use it without LEDs.
One of my clients got the same version so I was able to set it up for him. The USB input works fine but I haven't tried the micro SD slot as of yet. When I was setting it up for him I also had issues with the SD card input on the screen. Once I started printing from the USB input that was on the screen things were working fine. I also had the bed leveling issue. I found that when I changed the leveling increments from 0.01 to 0.1 it would then start working while setting up the Z offset. I'd be interested in know if this fixes your issue as well. We've only been able to do a couple of prints so far but it would be interesting to find out if the machine retains the EPROM settings over the long term.
I was having the same issues with the Ender 5-plus' BL touch implementation. Even sending M851 commands directly to change the offset, there was something strange going on. It seemingly would apply the offset randomly. Sometimes live, sometimes not at all. Sometimes not until the next print started and crashing into the bed. I have a sneaking suspicion it might have something to do with the buffer being busy with G1 commands, plus when it sends the M503 to recall the stored data, or the M420 for actually activating the mesh. The up/down issue is caused by software endstops being applied. It will stop it from going down but log the change (stupidly) M211 S0 to turn them off fixed that little quirk but we eventually gave up on the printer as we could never fix the offset issue. Also, forcing a bed level before every single print instead of storing and recalling a mesh was asinine.
Makers Muse trolling star wars fans lol
not sure if you've seen it but the CP-01 from creality has a very similar hotend, probably one of the first to have this compact style :)
Ship from star trek 🤦♂️.... Yeah we know your joking.
Light has no functionality? What about it being a light? lol
Star Trek lol someone is just trying to cause chaos in the comments section today
I’m am so glad I’m not the only one that doesn’t like them using Kickstarter and I’m extremely glad you stress the issues with this, I am very disappointed that the other UA-cam channels just glaze over this. They lose a lot of respect from me by ignoring this.
Wondering if you can convert the extruder to get rid of the HDMI connector.
I still remember everyone excited for the buccaneer, the peachy printer and others and wondering why I didn't back them. This is more just a marketing tactic in my eyes but the lack of accountability remains!
That’s one of my main issues with this Angus. You buy a product or preorder something and you have rights.
With Kickstarter you have no rights.
I did back the cr6e on Kickstarter and I’m having lots of issues.
I was wondering why I didn't see this one during my binge yesterday...
I don't know why this kind of clone printers exist. They don't work properly, hardware and software are not developed properly. Maybe as a DIY project but I want my Printer work right from the box, I don't want to spend hours modifying them to work. That's why I went with Prusa mini and so far, no prints were lost, only thing I have done as "service" was cleaning filament pulley from debris.
Hi for anyone interested I have spent a lot of time investigating the Gcode corruption issue mentioned in this video and basically it comes down to electrical interference primarily from the display rather than any cable. I note that in Angus`s video the review printer as an exposed back to the display. I surmise from my research that the display being quite close to the main electronics is the problem with this product. In most cases the BTT displays work well on Ender 3 & 5 upgrades because the display is remote to the main electronics. Put it adjacent to the display and all shit happens. I wrapped a couple of layers of tin foil in a Ikea sandwich bag behind the display on my HEVO build and all the immediate issues I had stopped. Angus, I look forward to your personal take on Ikea sandwich bags as opposed to your frequent trips to Aldi ! Best Boothy
Image Link: www.dropbox.com/s/h92r0yc39uerhsz/16071195203360.jpg?dl=0
Thank God I got a Prusa MK3S and avoided all this nonsense (seriously, an HDMI connector?). And yes I'm aware its a lot more and its getting a bit outdated HW wise but the thing is an absolute workhorse.
Oh and thank you for your honest review (as always) Angus!
Thanks I always enjoy your video. Would you do a Christmas present video. I want to buy myself a resin printer for Christmas I was going to buy myself Mars but there are so many horror stories I think no. So I’m now looking at a Anycubic mono. If you needed to to buy a printer that would just work what wood it be ? My usages case is I very occasionally want to print missing parts for vintage valve radios mainly knobs. Thanks stay safe regards Chris
Had very similar issues with BTT TFT70 screen regards the corrupt gcode, also in simulated mode it started corrupting the screen display. Definitely firmware issues. My screen also as a dicky SD card reader. Viewing angles are rubbish and the touch screen is not as good as the 35TFT screen. Edit: Please refer to my recent comment - my revised estimation is this is not firmware but electrical interference from the display being near interference.
The issue with bed leveling is to use the M211 S0 code to turn off the software endstops so the z axis can go below 0 height I to the negatives.
"space ship from Star Trek..." you little troll. :D
HDMI ports & cables are cheap, thanks to wide spread use. I think it's a clever way to reduce cost *shrug*
It's not that clever if you understand current and wire thickness, and how the typical consumer sees a cable.
"Same plug - will work" is a pretty common belief. Expect stories of blown up TVs from this, aswell as potential fires from too thin cables.
@@tin2001 Do you really think many people will be plugging their TV into this? Or the fact that power is not feeding FROM the device, but INTO it? Other devices have used this standard for power and data connection, yet no dangers there.
How is the Biqu B1 if u see this can u please let me know thank u
There website doesn't work right
The USB and card reader on the screen is probably going through a USB channel, which tends to impact print quality.
The 7 inch touch with a Pi behind it is something I'm running now, as an outboard controller (my printers are in an enclosure), and I love it. Chris Riley has reviewed OctoPi on a touch screen.
At this point, I would say any small amount of attention to hardware gets you a good machine. The real trick is getting the firmware working right.
👏👏👏
I am still mesmerized by the bicylinder steinzmentz solid
And I know it would be a pain for you to make me one so I won’t ask.
I see what you did there (even said it with a straight face).
(Classic "That's not a knife" play)
_plugs extruder into tv:_
can someone help me, why won't it print?? I don't know what's wrong :v((
HDMI is just a good connector, ppl use it to connect GPUs to laptops through a pcie port for the wifi module. And also even though it's friction fit, it is quite sturdy, and it's not like it get's tugged on during it's operation so it doesn't matter and it's actually good that they use a common port instead of something custom.
The Z offset issue is that whatever the last known "Z 0 position" was, the touchscreen wont let you manually move the Z axis lower than that until you reset "re-run" the Z homing. That's why you couldn't move the z down until it was raised above the previous home point
Great video as always mate. Sure it has some weirdness, but, l too like the inovative hotend/extruder setup. Considering HDMIs are designed to be pluged in and left in situ, I'm pretty sure it is not going to last long on the X carriage end, it's gonna wiggle contunually and the contacts will weaken causing high resistance connections. Then the machine will have to rely on the thermal runnaway protection to avoid a potential fire. Of course, I hope I'm wrong. Also, I don't have this printer so not talking from experience, just theory.
I have a Biqu B1. BIQU uses their (bigtreetech) TFT touch screens. They have their own CPU and communicate with the main board via serial port (sending regular g code commands). The SD card slot in the display is not on the mainboard and all data needs to be sent to the mainboard via the serial port. My guess is that the speed (baud rate) is set too high (250000) and so things get corrupted during transfer. I learned: Don't use the touch screen mode! Use marlin and, if possible, in combination with OctoPrint. One nice thing is that the mainboard USB interface is a real USB interface and not a USB serial port adapter. It looks like a serial port but you can choose speeds like 2000000+ and there is no corruption (speed is just the USB speed and it has internal error correction etc). So, using a RaPi with the mainboard USB interface works perfectly. Also, the TFT sends G-code but since it's not a direct marlin output, as the Marlin mode is, it doesn't actually know what the mainboard is doing: It can only interprete the g-code being sent from the mainboard, but things like position is apparently isn't sent. So all it can do is try to keep track (which doesn't work great as seen there). USE THE MARLIN MODE TO SET THE PROBE OFFSET! USE MARLIN MODE TO SAVE. that works... forget the TFT ffs!
HDMI for power supply is not only strange, but plain stupid and dangerous! That alone is a Don't-Buy-Reason.
1. HDMI current rating is about 50mA. All cables are made for (and just for) that! Of course you can take more of the wires together to get a bigger diameter. But there's a gigantic bunch of other solutions specific for applications like that. I don't know why smb would intentionally engineer a fire-hazard into such a machine.
2. There's no reasonable priced HDMI Cable out there which is made for installing on moving parts. (There are ones, but overpriced, because of Pro-Use in Stage-Tech)
3.Friction-Fit on moving part (No more comment neccessary, it's just dumb, and dangerous if the connection fails)
I don't know how a company (even a chinese) would invest time and effort to engineer such a thing (Just beause it looks cool??!).
Aside of beeing loads of suitable connector solutions out there, chinese companies are world champions in copying also nearly every solution of Phoenix Contacts, WAGO, and others (E.g. those green PCB screw terminals, they are made originally by Phoenix Contacts).
Actually HDMI is that smart part. Compare to a huge and heavy RS232 connector. U really can't find as much pins as HDMI on small and light formfactor. I've had few robot using HDMI for all the joints. Which is totally fine. And your print head doesn't move that much. friction is less of a problem. Tape should fix it.
If btt/BIQU was to abort their project and leave all their backers hanging, terms or no terms of Kickstarter, how bad of a black eye would it give btt/BIQU? How bad would such a decision have on their company sales in the 3D printer world? The overall 3D printer world as a whole if figuratively small. I don’t think btt/BIQU would Or will let down their backers.
I do like the extruder tech, but puzzled by that HDMI connection and the poor quality build plate. Everything else looks like glossings on what could be fundamentally a poor to mediocre printer. I have backed the CR-6 SE and that was a mistake, luckily with time and effort it's now up and running like it should, but I'll never ever do Kickstarter again for backing a 3D printer.
I had that build surface before on a different printer, couldn't get anything besides play to stick to it, unlike real pei
HDMI cables are ubiquitous these days. DB9, DB25, and VGA cables, not so much. Also HDMI has lots of conductors. Alternative might be an Ethernet cable if you don't need so many conductors and it has a rudimentary latch.
Could you do a video about Will Cogley's biomimetic 3D printed hand.
/2ooCvuMrjkE
With your experience in robot building I thought you would really appreciate the work he's doing.
Those wird lines and glitches while printing is baudrade 250000 causing that, zits and blobs, I'm guesstin skr mini v3 is there, printing from usb has some problems with those motherboards. Whats wird is that noone is saying anything about it beside You here ;)
Yes indeed, I believe that is the Double D (DD) from Star Treck. Shorthand for Decade Dodo i think. Colloquially known as the Discus by Star Treckers, or Discust by Space Wars fans.
I see many people complaining about HDMI cable. Previous Biqu printer have a USB_C cable. But how do you suppose to make a connection between motherboard and adapter board on the hotend? Artillery printers has a special flat cable which is esthetically good but you wont find out that easily. This solution was made to prevent disassembling a whole printer if you need to change something on the hotend.
"almost as beneficial as a bowden setup"
i mean my bowden setup is 60-40g :P
but that's like 120g lighter than bmg if i'm right? but there's lighter stuff for sure. not to mention nimble
Having backed Peachy Printer, Tiko, and Obsidian, I don't know where the dislike of Kickstarter is coming from. Seriously, if you can't afford to set that money on fire then you should not use it to back something. At least I got out of the Ono (Oh, no!) before they got my money. I have had some success on backing things too.
That's the same shit I had with my Geeetech A30. And this was my first printer, believe me, this was a pain in the a$$... 🙄
After months of frustration, I thrown the original mobo in the trash and bought a Duet Maestro 2... Since that, it's great!
Firmware is wrong in deciding it's base Z position. It won't allow you to go under Z0.0 but on the screen buttons are connected to increasing/decreasing the displayed value AND to moving by 1mm. So visual representation and machine itself desynchronize.
would never back anything on kickstarter or simular site's. BUT, i would happely buy a unit once they are out of those scam's IF they do...
It baffles me why manufacturers are still wasting engineering time and BOM cost on these contactless bed probes when Lulzbot (may they rest in peace) solved this problem with way less hardware years ago: Just put four contact points around the edge of the bed, don't make the bed out of some noodly material that will warp all over the place, and the prints will come out perfect every time.
yeah that's the NSEA-Protector from Galaxy Quest.. they're not print artefacts, it's just where they scraped it reversing out the dock.
The use of an HDMI connector isn't strange to me. It's a digital link, a better choice would be USB-C, but then it's probably more expensive too.
I am never backing a printer on crowdfunding platforms ever again. M3D Pro by M3D cured me of that idea. Never delivered, never met feature promises on the ones that were delivered. Crap company with crap products.
Hey Angus, it's called a Radial fan ! Because the air goes along the radius of the fan
Good to know!
Often used for CPUs & GPUs in note-books/lap-tops.
Absolutely, Kickstarter is a lottery. And the naff printed carbon fibre effect and LED lighting, are they trying to appeal to the Razer fans? Looks like a bit of a Frankenstein's monster.
Hmm, my anycubic mega s prints nicer and cost 100$ less. Not convinced in the value of this thing. HDMI cable for power? Come on...
Sounds very buggy. As someone who owns some bigtreetech s42b’s and having looked thru the firmware on github- i wouldnt buy any of there equipment again.
The interface on the screen need serious polishment. This bug is classic, here's how it goes: a button fires an event. The event decreases the counter and sends the signal to the machine to move the head down. Great? NO!
You can't just go sown so the macine stops if it's at its limit. Well... but the counter is not auto linked... if you don't receive the signal back from the machine telling you that it went down you don't know if you should count down or not. That's actually something that could change the design a lot because is this hardware ready to tell if any operation required were succesful? Actually I honestly don't know up until where it should be, but at least inside the code you should check your limits before performing operations. And that's something the interface needs to take care about.
As to the issues you have found with the printer using it in the more or less real world, is the whole point of getting out these demo pre-production printers. Kkankfully those at BIQU are listening to you bloggers and are already fixing those major issues befor production. My question is what is the latest that BIQU has to get the bugs worked out in order thnmake their December delivery schedule? I’m one of those superearly bird backers that reserved a spot to get one of the first printers off the production line. With that said I guess my bigest question is do I need to get a raspberry pie? What will it do for me when connected to the BX?
ok sooo what 0.o i mean yeah screw on cables are nice, but i don't wanna trust a wobbly-by-design printhead to keep hdmi perfectly 100% connected all the time... and pretty sure those cables and connectors weren't designed for high power heating elements either...