@@MakersMuse both channels have helped me a lot as I just got into 3D printing! Cheps bed level is the best method (with his stl file). Thank you both for helping people get started into the hobby
I literally told myself this morning "I'm gonna try to tune my ender 3 today." Open up UA-cam for something to watch during breakfast and found this, perfect timing!
Great Maintenance List, Angus !! 1) Print a reference item like a Benchi for Before/After reference. 2) Invert and clean generally, esp V-Grooves 3) Check tightness at the Z Servo Coupler screws 4) Inspect all limit switches and wires 5) Loosen rollers & belts and clean / inspect for wear 6) Re-tension belt rollers. 7) Inspect Hot End for Nozzle wear, chafing wires 8) Trim PTFE at Nozzle, clean with scrap filament/ IPA 9) Check all MODs for their unique issues 10) Clean/vacuum out all fan apertures. Install fan debris guards. 11) Lube Lead Screws lightly, clean up any excess, align Screw bearings 12) Inspect Heater Bed wires, connectors. Solder is preferred over crimping 13) Clean under any removable printing (magnetic) for flatness 14) Update Firmware (optional) 15) Level bed, checking many areas for warping. 16) Re-Print the reference item (Benchi) and enjoy!
I have to disagree with point 12. Do not solder the wires, use ferrules. The solder will work harden and become brittle over time which will turn into a fire hazard
@@robinmunkittrick4569 soldering with proper anti-wicking and mechanical support does not have those issues. But few hobbiests solder to NASA or USAF standards.
@@robinmunkittrick4569 I have some wonderful solder loaded heat shrink tubes in a variety of bores. Strip wire ends, a little twist, poke one wire all the out, overlap the other piece, push back to centre position. Apply heat gun (best with digital temp control/readout). The cuffs are flexible with an adhesive inner coating and there is a tube of solder in the centre that flows. Result--slim, neat, humidity tight, strain relieved and a solder join in the stiff centre portion. Bought a pack for a mate who goes ocean sailing. In an emergency you can use one of those blow torch lighters, after all if you are are out at sea with broken electrics, you might have no power and probably no heat gun. DO NOT play that game in the engine bay of a petrol driven craft/car.
"When your machine is apart, it's a great time to print some new upgrades." Unless you have a second machine, it's better to print any necessary parts BEFORE you disassemble the machine.
@@frogjmp What the OP has currently said means that if you do have 2 printers, print before you disassemble. But if he puts the don't, it would more accurately align with what he means. If you only have 1 printer, print before you disassemble said printer.
Kieran Bratson He said unless you have (meaning everyone but those who have a second machine to use) and you for someone unkown reason corrected him to “Unless you don’t have” which means only people with a second machine to use
@@frogjmp He said unless you have a second machine, which is everyone that has a second machine. He wants to be addressing those with 1 machine, so he should put Unless you dont have a second machine
Great video as usual,... just watched Chucks video, he gave a shout out to you, then I watched this video, you gave a shout out to him,... classy. You have both, along with Michael over at Teaching Tech, been 100% of the reason I am still printing. Any issues I have ever encountered,... you guys seem to have the fix. True professionals, great content, and a helpful and caring community. Keep up the great work. and thank you so much for all of the help and advice over the years!
I always think it’s cool when content creators shoutout other creators like you did with Chep at the end! I’ve had my Ender 3s going on two years and I’m terrible about doing any tuning and maintenance. I just cleaned and lubricated the rods for the first time last weekend. 😳
By providing excellent content, all of you who provide us with those helpful printing tips and information have helped me with my 3D printer's performance and print issues, and quality. I thank you all.
Lots of good tips here, a few I can work on right now, as few to address in the near future, and a few for down the road; definitely going to save this video
A an amazing video on Ender 3 maintenace along with those additional part making tricks using Fusion360!!! I just received my Ender 3 and sponging as much knowledge as I can absorb before I start sitting down to assemble it! The price for mine has gone up a bit to date (March 2021) to CDN $282.99 all in (no taxes and no shipping were charged) from Amazon Prime!!! Still really unbeatable for the quality and large printing area following my research. Thanks much and will be putting a library together of your UA-cam tutorials on this unit for reference as I get going. Keep up the good work!!!
Have seen a couple videos about printer maintainance that are a bit generic so I really apreciate that you have done this video pointing out what to do on the Ender 3, have to say you are the first one that mentions the cables and indeed is really importat to check them too. Gonna do the maintainance of mine this week 😁
Got the 3 Pro after referring to your content, I figured it was best after the information you put forward in your videos. I use an Intermac waterjet and an Intermac CNC machine for my work, these are obviously very different in function but similar in behaviour and principle, I find over holiday periods or reduced work, the machines can succumb to "rust-like" behaviour where errors arise and parts break after periods or inactivity. Servicing our 3D printers periodically is important as the complexity of CNC devices induces a constant state-of-decay, prevention is the best cure ;) Peace.
I picked up an ender 3 last month and it's been great for prototyping, I started with Chuck's Cura profiles and they work a treat, I've had consistently good prints with PLA. My only gripe (so far) would be the couplers on the Bowden tubes which seem to spit the PTFE out at the extruder and I can''t seem to get rid of the elephant foot unless I print on a raft. Wish I'd got into 3d printing years ago, haven't had this much fun in years
Definitely lube the lead screw my ender3 was having the z axis bind at 5mm point every print and just make a mess and the issue was totally resolved by greasing the screw.
Just finished maintaining my MP Mini Delta. This is a printer that needs help out of the box! But pleased with it after some work. MP advertises it as an introductory printer that works out of the box, but that's not even close to the truth unless only the very center of the bad is used. Printing bigger causes the nozzle to dig into the bed.
Ender 3 pro. I have more than the cost of the printer in mods. Full Capricorn, full Swiss, brass nozzles, glass bed, 32bit controller, 2nd Z axis, and it’s a beast. I haven’t had an issue in 1000hrs and that’s operating time. Resin printers are better for models and detail, but I’ve printed over 1000 functional mechanical parts about 90% of which have been working for years straight. Also lithium grease is your friend.
even though this is a TWO year old video, and there's been so many upgrades by Ender, this episode is still revelant. eg: simple tightener on the end of the travel bar to manage precise belt tension.
Hi Angus, I'm running direct drive as well and I mounted the spool on the top so it comes off the roll directly down towards the head, the feed path is a straight line. It works really well. Thanks for all the great information, your vids have been really helpful!
I would add that it helps to check the fan blades for wear (I had a blade break off) and even clean the edges as dust accumulates and can reduce the air flow. I do this with my big fans in the house as well and can notice a difference in the amount of air blowing out.
Tons of good advice, I have had my Ender 3 pro for about 7 months and have done a few upgrades, but this video helped me with one nagging issue, by belt adjuster has always been bent like yours and I need to straiten it, because it has been rubbing on one edge it is beginning to show some minor wear on the belt. Was thinking of getting a second ender and upgrading to the bigger bed kit and doing it from a new build. Thanks again.
I remember when you did your original ended video as I was watching in an AirBnB in Sydney before heading out to an amazing party at the opera house as part of the Vivid festival .....
I love my Ender 3 but it does need to be modded. Thanks Angus, great video as always. Some really excellent suggestions, especially the wire fraying part because if the firmware does not get updated, then thermal runaway will not be enabled, which could lead to a fire.
Pipe cleaners and an old toothbrush come handy when cleaning your printer, to reach all the tiny gaps! Also these sprays with just compressed air are very useful.
I recently got a used ender 3 pro. it is doing really well and I am very happy with it. my dad likes the results so much that he is thinking about selling his davinci 1.0 pro to get his own. so may go back through your reviews and recommend something better/more capable for him, or at the least an ender 3 V2 and filament run-out sensor. fyi we have greatly enjoyed the davinci 1.0 pro (we got it for $400 thanks to a warehouse liquidation store) and are glad we got it. I know a lot of people seem to hate the davinci, at least for beginners it is really nice. I like the box design, the way everything moves, and the case. it definitely has room for improvement but I don't see why it gets all the (vocal) disdain it does there are some things I plan to do to my ender 3 pro and I figured while I have it somewhat apart I will go through and do a check-up on it. I am using prusaslicer because it was free and I am liking it a lot. for me it was easier to work than cura slicer (free edition) and even goes to a finer layer height if I so choose. I am putting a Z-axis kit on to give it 500mm vertical, new motherboard so I can put a runout/jam sensor, and a direct drive so I can do flexible filament in the (hopefully) near future the fans on the hot end just started to make some sounds, like debris is in the blade path or a screw has worked itself loose a little and is vibrating. it seems a lot of people like to replace the stock duct work for a new design. they also tend to change the fans from stock. I think I will wait to do so unless I have to but when I do I plan to use noctua fans (I have them for my computer CPU and I love how quiet and efficient they are so I am hoping smaller versions would have just as much quality). for the hardware would it be alright to use a small drop (or use a drop and have it shared with a couple bolts) of blue loctite? in general would there be a written manual with a bunch of steps (with pictures as well) and recommended usage hours between certain checks? I do some car repairs and maintenance so I was curious if the caliper grease I have would be viable? granted it is a grease so it would hold onto any garbage and 'eat' the screw and nut a little faster but I am fine having to replace it after likely years of use. if not i will see about silicone spray, and if I can't find that locally I will try to find some thick and heat resistant grease I am trying some filament from gst3d (USA made with a couple factories around the world). I know you are better at thoroughly testing though. the big reason why I want to try it is if you order 10 KG you get it $9 USD per KG, if you order 20 KG you get it $8 USD per KG (they only do PLA+). where I have been getting my filament from the price is twice as much (about $22 USD per KG). if you would be willing to would you be willing to try some? they have a lot of different colors to choose from Thank you for all your hard work, videos, and sharing of knowledge. it is greatly appreciated
Thank you for a great walkthrough! Your videos helped me a great deal as I started to learn how to use a 3D printer. I'm now printing model skeletons daily for each of my Anatomy students to use at home this Fall, and I was worrying a bit about keeping my Ender running smoothly through a couple months of constant printing. I'll definitely be putting your advice to use!
I thoroughly trust this channel and all of Angus' recommendations for 3d printing. Also, by extension, CHEP is AMAZING! Angus always recommends CHEP and neither of them have let me down. Grade A+ content for handling 3d printers and how to maintain and upgrade them for quality prints for hours and hours.
Great video! I just bought a ender 3 pro and love it! Microcenter had a $100 coupon so I got the ender 3 pro and a roll of pla for 126.98 tax and all out the door!
Great video, i have also watched many of Chucks vids. Bought my e3 pro about 5 months ago, and once assembled and initial tuning done, had some of the best prinst ever, ( out of the box). Its a great little machine. I have only added a drag chain to the bed, but am planning on adding dual z, hot end drag chain, and upgrading the firmware, but that is for when i tear it down for maintenance. Thanks Angus, and thanks Chuck
I looove doing maintenance to my ender 3 pro. Check the belts, lubricate the Y rod, remove all the debris from the wheels, vacuum the slots, check the cables, remove all the dust from the fans, clean the nozzle, give it a wipe with IPA... It sounds like boring work but it's fun for me!
Great video mate. Iv not long ago bought the ender 3 v2,I love the printer.iv been wondering about possible maintenanceon the machine. So this is a very helpful video. Thank you
I like to move wire mounts (zipties, etc) around every so often to distribute wear more evenly across the wire. Back in the day I put together my Ultimaker incorrectly which years later led to an intermittent fault in the connection to the thermistor due to wire fraying. It led to my hotend shooting up in temperature which I'm lucky didn't destroy it (the old Ultimakers did not use all-metal hotends) or burn down the house.
I think its fine that you use grease to lubricate your z axis but you may also consider a (non silicon based) machine oil. I used both and found that the grease was really prone to collect dust or even small plastic parts from my prints which made the Z axis get stuck on them. With oil you can easily spot if that happens and have to clean less, trying to clean out all of the grease was always a bit trickier. Just my two cents on that topic. Also if you're using axis with linear rods or rails, please only use machine oil to lubricate them. Plus silicon grease is usually made for plastic on plastic contact, not for metal on metal. So keep that in mind!
Good video. Minor suggestion. Instead of alcohol for the wheels. Use naphtha. Alcohol can dry out rubber over time. I own 3 laser and which have similar wheels, and you should also use naphtha on those according the manufacture. I also have several 3d printers.
I'm now a bigger fan of Creality than I am of Prusa. Maintenance is a major reason for it. I can fix and upgrade my Ender 3 Pro for much less money than my MK3s
0:48 the ender 3 I got in October 2020 has a tensioner bracket that's attached to the extrusion on both sides. Possibly one of the "improvements" over the years of ender 3 production.
Very nice! Would be cool if you did a similar thing for the overhead gantry style printers that mostly use smooth rods instead of v rollers. (I'm probably one of the few still running a Replicator 2X, but there are others similar to it - that is, not i3 style - that are presumably more popular)
Perhaps the idler pulley at 6:36 could have a 3d printed other side to make sure the bolt doesn't bend and unnecessarily stress the belt. Thanks for the advice!
Really nice. I just was looking for maintenance videos a few days ago. I have a flyingbear tornado still working fine but I want to do some maintenance work on it and some upgrades ( I know that you didn’t liked it but I manage to have it printing reliable for me)
If you take a soldering iron and run it over the solder joints connected to the lcd directly it should repair it. Be sure not to leave the iron over the plastic for more than two or three seconds or it will melt. You will also need to leave the lcd on to see what you are doing.
13:00 - I need to say something here for the newbies like me, as I just installed my Ender 3 at the end of May. Rather, I installed my Ender 3 **PRO** at the end of May. YOUR CONTROL BOARD WON'T HAVE THIS ISSUE. This hobby has changed SO much -- As Angus notes in the video -- over the years, and one of the changes was the regular E3 vs the E3P. One of the changes was that the motherboard box is now upside down, and all the venting is from below. You will NOT have the fan opening. Most of the videos out there demo the Ender 3s, and NOT the Ender 3 Pros. Keep that in mind to save yourself the confusion. I noticed that I didn't need the fan mods that were all over Thingiverse, but it wasn't until I went to check on why my USB input looked a little loose (it wasn't; it was the cable itself), and after removing far to many screws, I realized it opened from the bottom.
Very Nice summary of maintenance tips. And thanks for the mention.
Thanks for your tips dude!
@@MakersMuse both channels have helped me a lot as I just got into 3D printing! Cheps bed level is the best method (with his stl file). Thank you both for helping people get started into the hobby
@@minusthemachineagain9342 That stl file had me printing perfectly from the first print!
I literally told myself this morning "I'm gonna try to tune my ender 3 today." Open up UA-cam for something to watch during breakfast and found this, perfect timing!
big papa listens
Great Maintenance List, Angus !!
1) Print a reference item like a Benchi for Before/After reference.
2) Invert and clean generally, esp V-Grooves
3) Check tightness at the Z Servo Coupler screws
4) Inspect all limit switches and wires
5) Loosen rollers & belts and clean / inspect for wear
6) Re-tension belt rollers.
7) Inspect Hot End for Nozzle wear, chafing wires
8) Trim PTFE at Nozzle, clean with scrap filament/ IPA
9) Check all MODs for their unique issues
10) Clean/vacuum out all fan apertures. Install fan debris guards.
11) Lube Lead Screws lightly, clean up any excess, align Screw bearings
12) Inspect Heater Bed wires, connectors. Solder is preferred over crimping
13) Clean under any removable printing (magnetic) for flatness
14) Update Firmware (optional)
15) Level bed, checking many areas for warping.
16) Re-Print the reference item (Benchi) and enjoy!
I have to disagree with point 12. Do not solder the wires, use ferrules. The solder will work harden and become brittle over time which will turn into a fire hazard
@@robinmunkittrick4569 soldering with proper anti-wicking and mechanical support does not have those issues. But few hobbiests solder to NASA or USAF standards.
@@robinmunkittrick4569 I have some wonderful solder loaded heat shrink tubes in a variety of bores. Strip wire ends, a little twist, poke one wire all the out, overlap the other piece, push back to centre position. Apply heat gun (best with digital temp control/readout). The cuffs are flexible with an adhesive inner coating and there is a tube of solder in the centre that flows.
Result--slim, neat, humidity tight, strain relieved and a solder join in the stiff centre portion. Bought a pack for a mate who goes ocean sailing. In an emergency you can use one of those blow torch lighters, after all if you are are out at sea with broken electrics, you might have no power and probably no heat gun. DO NOT play that game in the engine bay of a petrol driven craft/car.
Exactly why im just gonna buy a new better printer
In 2040: Angus here, I finally ran out of grease!
he needs to get more girl friends, even polygamy, especially the old ones who lack lubrication, the grease will make marvel
With Astroglide, all things are possible
Angus here, nevermind, there was about 1000 years left of grease!
Haha
"When your machine is apart, it's a great time to print some new upgrades."
Unless you have a second machine, it's better to print any necessary parts BEFORE you disassemble the machine.
Unless you dont have a second machine*
Kieran Bratson no he’s right
@@frogjmp What the OP has currently said means that if you do have 2 printers, print before you disassemble. But if he puts the don't, it would more accurately align with what he means. If you only have 1 printer, print before you disassemble said printer.
Kieran Bratson He said unless you have (meaning everyone but those who have a second machine to use) and you for someone unkown reason corrected him to “Unless you don’t have” which means only people with a second machine to use
@@frogjmp He said unless you have a second machine, which is everyone that has a second machine. He wants to be addressing those with 1 machine, so he should put Unless you dont have a second machine
I'm always amazed how carefully you collect information and bring them over to us. I appreciate much the work you put into this quality channel!
i needed this video so bad right now
Right?
Great video as usual,... just watched Chucks video, he gave a shout out to you, then I watched this video, you gave a shout out to him,... classy. You have both, along with Michael over at Teaching Tech, been 100% of the reason I am still printing. Any issues I have ever encountered,... you guys seem to have the fix. True professionals, great content, and a helpful and caring community. Keep up the great work. and thank you so much for all of the help and advice over the years!
I always think it’s cool when content creators shoutout other creators like you did with Chep at the end! I’ve had my Ender 3s going on two years and I’m terrible about doing any tuning and maintenance. I just cleaned and lubricated the rods for the first time last weekend. 😳
Angus: Maintain your 3d printer.
Me: Yes Mum.
yes chef, sorry chef
Lol
By providing excellent content, all of you who provide us with those helpful printing tips and information have helped me with my 3D printer's performance and print issues, and quality. I thank you all.
Every time I watch one of your videos I learn something else that improves my printing results! Thank you mate! :)
Lots of good tips here, a few I can work on right now, as few to address in the near future, and a few for down the road; definitely going to save this video
I received an Ender 3 on Friday! Great timing! Cheer, Angus.
Do you still have it
@@BiscuitGirl9154 Yes. It's been very productive.
Thank you for this... Maintenance is one of my biggest (3d printing) worries at this time!
A an amazing video on Ender 3 maintenace along with those additional part making tricks using Fusion360!!! I just received my Ender 3 and sponging as much knowledge as I can absorb before I start sitting down to assemble it! The price for mine has gone up a bit to date (March 2021) to CDN $282.99 all in (no taxes and no shipping were charged) from Amazon Prime!!! Still really unbeatable for the quality and large printing area following my research. Thanks much and will be putting a library together of your UA-cam tutorials on this unit for reference as I get going. Keep up the good work!!!
Have seen a couple videos about printer maintainance that are a bit generic so I really apreciate that you have done this video pointing out what to do on the Ender 3, have to say you are the first one that mentions the cables and indeed is really importat to check them too. Gonna do the maintainance of mine this week 😁
Got the 3 Pro after referring to your content, I figured it was best after the information you put forward in your videos. I use an Intermac waterjet and an Intermac CNC machine for my work, these are obviously very different in function but similar in behaviour and principle, I find over holiday periods or reduced work, the machines can succumb to "rust-like" behaviour where errors arise and parts break after periods or inactivity. Servicing our 3D printers periodically is important as the complexity of CNC devices induces a constant state-of-decay, prevention is the best cure ;)
Peace.
I picked up an ender 3 last month and it's been great for prototyping, I started with Chuck's Cura profiles and they work a treat, I've had consistently good prints with PLA. My only gripe (so far) would be the couplers on the Bowden tubes which seem to spit the PTFE out at the extruder and I can''t seem to get rid of the elephant foot unless I print on a raft. Wish I'd got into 3d printing years ago, haven't had this much fun in years
Definitely lube the lead screw my ender3 was having the z axis bind at 5mm point every print and just make a mess and the issue was totally resolved by greasing the screw.
I literally bought the pro one like 4 hours ago dang
I really hope yours doesn't come with a short belt, Mine did :(
me too
I bought a pro around a month ago, it's belts were fine length wise. I had to tighten them though.
@@symbolicsin same here ... very disappointing ... also fed tube kept pulling out
Me too!!
Been watching your videos all day, great stuff!! Had to comment on this one as I noticed wingspan in the back and my heart melted
Perfect timing, as I was just about to do my maintenance on my Ender 3 Pro and CR-X.
Thanks Angus! Please continue with "maintenance" topic on other machines you've got
Just finished maintaining my MP Mini Delta. This is a printer that needs help out of the box! But pleased with it after some work. MP advertises it as an introductory printer that works out of the box, but that's not even close to the truth unless only the very center of the bad is used. Printing bigger causes the nozzle to dig into the bed.
Ender 3 pro. I have more than the cost of the printer in mods. Full Capricorn, full Swiss, brass nozzles, glass bed, 32bit controller, 2nd Z axis, and it’s a beast. I haven’t had an issue in 1000hrs and that’s operating time. Resin printers are better for models and detail, but I’ve printed over 1000 functional mechanical parts about 90% of which have been working for years straight. Also lithium grease is your friend.
even though this is a TWO year old video, and there's been so many upgrades by Ender, this episode is still revelant. eg: simple tightener on the end of the travel bar to manage precise belt tension.
Also a good idea to add blue thread locker to any loose bolts
Hi Angus, I'm running direct drive as well and I mounted the spool on the top so it comes off the roll directly down towards the head, the feed path is a straight line. It works really well. Thanks for all the great information, your vids have been really helpful!
To fix the LCD lines, remove the LCD bezel, clean the two elastomeric strips and contacts on the PCB with alcohol, then reassemble.
I would add that it helps to check the fan blades for wear (I had a blade break off) and even clean the edges as dust accumulates and can reduce the air flow. I do this with my big fans in the house as well and can notice a difference in the amount of air blowing out.
Cool machine - cool direct drive conversion…
Epic video !!!!!
Wow, this is the first video I have seen that covers maintenance - I dont know how I missed this topic.
Wish I had more videos like this when I was first getting started. Even still a great watch!
Tons of good advice, I have had my Ender 3 pro for about 7 months and have done a few upgrades, but this video helped me with one nagging issue, by belt adjuster has always been bent like yours and I need to straiten it, because it has been rubbing on one edge it is beginning to show some minor wear on the belt. Was thinking of getting a second ender and upgrading to the bigger bed kit and doing it from a new build. Thanks again.
Super useful video! Thank you Angus!
Angus, you are cool and genuine. Thank you for the Pro tips. Daddy CHEP is awesome.
I remember when you did your original ended video as I was watching in an AirBnB in Sydney before heading out to an amazing party at the opera house as part of the Vivid festival .....
I love my Ender 3 but it does need to be modded. Thanks Angus, great video as always. Some really excellent suggestions, especially the wire fraying part because if the firmware does not get updated, then thermal runaway will not be enabled, which could lead to a fire.
Pipe cleaners and an old toothbrush come handy when cleaning your printer, to reach all the tiny gaps! Also these sprays with just compressed air are very useful.
I recently got a used ender 3 pro. it is doing really well and I am very happy with it. my dad likes the results so much that he is thinking about selling his davinci 1.0 pro to get his own. so may go back through your reviews and recommend something better/more capable for him, or at the least an ender 3 V2 and filament run-out sensor. fyi we have greatly enjoyed the davinci 1.0 pro (we got it for $400 thanks to a warehouse liquidation store) and are glad we got it. I know a lot of people seem to hate the davinci, at least for beginners it is really nice. I like the box design, the way everything moves, and the case. it definitely has room for improvement but I don't see why it gets all the (vocal) disdain it does
there are some things I plan to do to my ender 3 pro and I figured while I have it somewhat apart I will go through and do a check-up on it. I am using prusaslicer because it was free and I am liking it a lot. for me it was easier to work than cura slicer (free edition) and even goes to a finer layer height if I so choose. I am putting a Z-axis kit on to give it 500mm vertical, new motherboard so I can put a runout/jam sensor, and a direct drive so I can do flexible filament in the (hopefully) near future
the fans on the hot end just started to make some sounds, like debris is in the blade path or a screw has worked itself loose a little and is vibrating. it seems a lot of people like to replace the stock duct work for a new design. they also tend to change the fans from stock. I think I will wait to do so unless I have to but when I do I plan to use noctua fans (I have them for my computer CPU and I love how quiet and efficient they are so I am hoping smaller versions would have just as much quality).
for the hardware would it be alright to use a small drop (or use a drop and have it shared with a couple bolts) of blue loctite? in general would there be a written manual with a bunch of steps (with pictures as well) and recommended usage hours between certain checks?
I do some car repairs and maintenance so I was curious if the caliper grease I have would be viable? granted it is a grease so it would hold onto any garbage and 'eat' the screw and nut a little faster but I am fine having to replace it after likely years of use. if not i will see about silicone spray, and if I can't find that locally I will try to find some thick and heat resistant grease
I am trying some filament from gst3d (USA made with a couple factories around the world). I know you are better at thoroughly testing though. the big reason why I want to try it is if you order 10 KG you get it $9 USD per KG, if you order 20 KG you get it $8 USD per KG (they only do PLA+). where I have been getting my filament from the price is twice as much (about $22 USD per KG). if you would be willing to would you be willing to try some? they have a lot of different colors to choose from
Thank you for all your hard work, videos, and sharing of knowledge. it is greatly appreciated
Looks like I need to do some of these things. Have 3 printers! Looks like I’m in for a little bit of work! Haha thanks Man love your vids!!
Thank you for a great walkthrough! Your videos helped me a great deal as I started to learn how to use a 3D printer. I'm now printing model skeletons daily for each of my Anatomy students to use at home this Fall, and I was worrying a bit about keeping my Ender running smoothly through a couple months of constant printing. I'll definitely be putting your advice to use!
I thoroughly trust this channel and all of Angus' recommendations for 3d printing. Also, by extension, CHEP is AMAZING! Angus always recommends CHEP and neither of them have let me down. Grade A+ content for handling 3d printers and how to maintain and upgrade them for quality prints for hours and hours.
Great video! I just bought a ender 3 pro and love it! Microcenter had a $100 coupon so I got the ender 3 pro and a roll of pla for 126.98 tax and all out the door!
Excellent timing. My Ender 3 Pro just started buggering prints yesterday. Probably a clogged nozzle, so a good time for a full maintenance cycle.
I've got a paint brush with my printer, I try to keep on top of it whenever I remember and paint brushes work wonders for clearing dust
Great video, i have also watched many of Chucks vids. Bought my e3 pro about 5 months ago, and once assembled and initial tuning done, had some of the best prinst ever, ( out of the box). Its a great little machine. I have only added a drag chain to the bed, but am planning on adding dual z, hot end drag chain, and upgrading the firmware, but that is for when i tear it down for maintenance. Thanks Angus, and thanks Chuck
Excellent video, Angus! Took a lot of notes during it to create a maintenance schedule...thanks so much!
I looove doing maintenance to my ender 3 pro. Check the belts, lubricate the Y rod, remove all the debris from the wheels, vacuum the slots, check the cables, remove all the dust from the fans, clean the nozzle, give it a wipe with IPA...
It sounds like boring work but it's fun for me!
Nice video Angus.
Beautifully done and very informative Angus.
Great video mate. Iv not long ago bought the ender 3 v2,I love the printer.iv been wondering about possible maintenanceon the machine. So this is a very helpful video. Thank you
Also, I love my belt tensioners on my Ender 3 Pros. Highly recommend people get those.
Just bought a pro like 5 hours ago lol
Can you put one on a Ender 3?
Aftermarket upgrade or 3d printed ones?
@@Centurion3D yes. same X tensioner, but different Y tensioner.
Thank you. I have been waiting for someone todo this exact video.
I use Super Lube oil for my linear rails and their grease for the lead screws. Good stuff, Also use the oil to clean my guns lol
you're a good man... and I wish you good fortune with your endeavors
I sure do love it when my lead screw is lubricated Thx for the tip with the grease
Great video. Will know what to look out for on my Ender 3 Pro.
Good job! Maintenance is an important part of 3D Printing! Thanks
I like to move wire mounts (zipties, etc) around every so often to distribute wear more evenly across the wire. Back in the day I put together my Ultimaker incorrectly which years later led to an intermittent fault in the connection to the thermistor due to wire fraying. It led to my hotend shooting up in temperature which I'm lucky didn't destroy it (the old Ultimakers did not use all-metal hotends) or burn down the house.
You win first place in the "unidentifiable world accent competition" :-D Awesome video thank you.
I think its fine that you use grease to lubricate your z axis but you may also consider a (non silicon based) machine oil. I used both and found that the grease was really prone to collect dust or even small plastic parts from my prints which made the Z axis get stuck on them. With oil you can easily spot if that happens and have to clean less, trying to clean out all of the grease was always a bit trickier.
Just my two cents on that topic.
Also if you're using axis with linear rods or rails, please only use machine oil to lubricate them. Plus silicon grease is usually made for plastic on plastic contact, not for metal on metal. So keep that in mind!
Excellent advice, as usual. Thanks.
Thank you so much. What a great idea of an informative video. I really appreciate you.
I really needed this thanks. All I've ever done is clean grease the Z screw.
Super informative, I was thinking it was about time to lube up our ender 3 pro! thanks!
0:52 The man is using an actual forged (not stamped from sheet metal) wrench to adjust the rollers. I like him already. :D
Amazing love the video your awesome
Good video. Minor suggestion. Instead of alcohol for the wheels. Use naphtha. Alcohol can dry out rubber over time. I own 3 laser and which have similar wheels, and you should also use naphtha on those according the manufacture. I also have several 3d printers.
Thank you guys ❤️😘🙏
Great video, Angus! I actually needed this pretty bad because I wasn't sure how to clean my printer. Thanks!
Excellent video!! Congratulations and thanks for your advice!
finally, i needed this video so bad.
Right even if so many incapable people attribute problems to the printer.
maintenance is ok
Great time to upload a video
I'm now a bigger fan of Creality than I am of Prusa. Maintenance is a major reason for it.
I can fix and upgrade my Ender 3 Pro for much less money than my MK3s
9:55 no use Grease PTFE for métal/métal, use Lithium grease ;)
Thank you for this very useful information
just what i need it :) 2 years runing my ender is looking for some TLC
Great video Angus. Thanks for the information.
Love to have a direct extruder for printing tpu in the future.
You don't need direct to print tpu. Besides this upgrade isn't a true direct drive, it's just a short throw bowden drive.
Great advice as always Angus
0:48 the ender 3 I got in October 2020 has a tensioner bracket that's attached to the extrusion on both sides. Possibly one of the "improvements" over the years of ender 3 production.
I like to use Graphite Dry Lube Spray to lubricate my Z lead screw. I was afraid grease would attract too much dust to it.
awesome information very nice steps thank you.
Very handy tutorial, thanks! Wielding spanner right now!
Great video. Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge...... much appreciated!
Your printer looks a lot like mine , so this was very helpfull.
I actualy bougt a magnetic bed set intended for ender to get on my anycube mega zero.
Very nice! Would be cool if you did a similar thing for the overhead gantry style printers that mostly use smooth rods instead of v rollers. (I'm probably one of the few still running a Replicator 2X, but there are others similar to it - that is, not i3 style - that are presumably more popular)
Thanks for this valuable information!
Instead of grease i suggest to use petroleum jelly, vaseline, which it can lubrificate as well and is not smelly and you can touch with hands
Perhaps the idler pulley at 6:36 could have a 3d printed other side to make sure the bolt doesn't bend and unnecessarily stress the belt. Thanks for the advice!
Really nice. I just was looking for maintenance videos a few days ago. I have a flyingbear tornado still working fine but I want to do some maintenance work on it and some upgrades ( I know that you didn’t liked it but I manage to have it printing reliable for me)
If you take a soldering iron and run it over the solder joints connected to the lcd directly it should repair it. Be sure not to leave the iron over the plastic for more than two or three seconds or it will melt. You will also need to leave the lcd on to see what you are doing.
Oooohhh wingspan
Very useful video, thanks.
13:00 - I need to say something here for the newbies like me, as I just installed my Ender 3 at the end of May. Rather, I installed my Ender 3 **PRO** at the end of May. YOUR CONTROL BOARD WON'T HAVE THIS ISSUE.
This hobby has changed SO much -- As Angus notes in the video -- over the years, and one of the changes was the regular E3 vs the E3P. One of the changes was that the motherboard box is now upside down, and all the venting is from below. You will NOT have the fan opening. Most of the videos out there demo the Ender 3s, and NOT the Ender 3 Pros. Keep that in mind to save yourself the confusion.
I noticed that I didn't need the fan mods that were all over Thingiverse, but it wasn't until I went to check on why my USB input looked a little loose (it wasn't; it was the cable itself), and after removing far to many screws, I realized it opened from the bottom.
I bought 8 of them and they all print PETG swimmingly! I will probably just replace them all in a few years to keep up with the tech
I've completely switched to Vaseline for all of my greasing needs. Works great and isn't a bother if you get it on clothes and your skin.
Vaseline is going to rust your hardware. Lithium grease instead.