I've been wrapping my bars this way for the past 40 years because it always made the most sense to me. Thank you showing this sensible approach to bar wrapping in this informative video.
I was born in 1949 (so I'm 75). When I was a teenager my Father (born 1925) taught me to tape the bars top down. In recent years I have fallen in with fashion. I have never liked bottom up and find it difficult to do - with or without figure of eight which I always get wrong! Having seen your video and a few others I will go back to what my Daddy told me! Thanks for your prompt.
Thank you for the lovely comment. Sometimes the old ways are still the best. It will also be a nice to honour the memories with your Father. If anyone asks why you do your tape that way you can tell them the same story. 🙂
I've been wrapping my bars this way for 36 years. Never had any problems with rolled edges or water/dirt ingress making the tape slip. I personally have taped over 30,000 bars this way. I used to work at Raleigh in Nottingham, England. This was the way they used to do it for millions of bikes. The job could get a little bit boring after a while when all you are doing is taping 125 bars a day.
I'm also wrapping my bar tape this way. I was first introduce to this method by my mechanic about 10 years ago and according to him, he learnt it from a pro-bike mechanic. Anyway, I prefer not using electrical tape because of the adhesive. They can't last very long here in Singapore and will become a mess.
My local bike shop recommended to wrap the wrong way because it prevents dirts or grime stuck on the sticky finishing tape and I’m glad he did it the wrong way and never had any problems plus it looks neat too!
Love this. If you are a thinking person and you have a reasoned approach for going against conventional "wisdom", people who don't like it may be lumped into the narrow minded bin. Well done, Reg!
It’s an excellent Ti bike! 😁 if you want to know more I have a video on it. (The worlds best performance road bike) that’s a cool bit of history a few people have mentioned now and it’s actually something I didn’t know so thank you! 🙏🏻🙂 Safe riding!
HAHAHAHA! This is the content I come here for, as it consistently reinforces that I have a predilection for doing things the "wrong way". It's become a point of pride for me.
I go back to the old cotton bar tape days in the 70's and used to wrap the "wrong" way and the edges of that stuff always rolled up but that's probably due to lack of stretch in the old style tape. I'm guessing the top down method started because of that but modern bar tapes look like they're more forgiving, worth another look, I'll give it a try next time around.
I found exactly the opposite on my bikes. I did top down taping for years with Tressostar tape and never thought twice about it until I put two layers on the bars. When I did this, I was killing the tape exactly the way your bars look way before you replaced it. I changed to bottom up and never had the issue again. Been doing that for a very long time now. I agree with all your arguments about the ease of top down wrapping, but it just doesn't work for me.
The way my bars look is because the tape I’m using is basically faulty and as soon as you touch it the surface rubs off. But you can still see the edge isn’t curling up. 👍🏻😊
Not another bar tape wrapping video was what I thought when I first saw this, but somehow you made it worth it. I wrapped my own bar tape for the firs time a few months ago. It used to be that that my local bike shop would wrap your bars for free if you bought the bar tape from them at full retail. Now they charge a few dollars and I don't mind but it was something I wanted to learn so I bought two packages of tape (fortunately didn't need the second one, it's for my gravel bike now when I need to change it) and did exactly as the instructions said, the "right" way as opposed to your "wrong" way. I had to re-wrap one bar after a few rides probably because it was the first side I did and didn't wrap it quite as tight as I should. Not sure if I'll try your "wrong" way next time but appreciate the instruction. Always nice knowing alternative methods so you can experiment and find what works best for you.
Thank you very much and well done on your own tape! The question I have is if you thought “oh no not another…” what motivated you to click? 🤔 Sorry for asking but that would be super useful information for me as a “creator.” Goodness, doesn’t “creator” sound incredibly pretentious? That’s the last time I call myself that. 🤣
@@reginaldscot165 It's not pretentious to call yourself a creator when it's an accurate description of what you do. Not sure exactly what motivated me to watch but I think the phrase "a better wrong way" helped.
Something I've noticed lately (probably belatedly!) is that whilst racing in the 70/80/90s it was most common to ride on the drops, rather than the more recent/modern approach of riding on the tops - look at old photos... With this change of riding style it now means that wrapping in the other direction (for the tops anyways) seems a better approach... Radical changes! ❤
You can change the direction of the wrap between top and bottom (and hide the spot at the brifter clamp). Ultimately how it looks isn't the reason people wrap from the bottom. Its to get the wrap in the right direction so that you don't unravel the tape while riding. Going top down means you are peeling back the tape on the drops. Going bottom to top means you have the drops in the right manner (protecting top edge of each wrap) and then figure 8 at the brifter to get the pressure direction right on top.
The main reason why people ride more on the hoods is brifters...not so easy to use from the drops, unless you have long fingers. That's why I went back to downtube shifters.
Hey Reginald good video. I’ve always started my taping from the bottom. But hey ! Horses for courses as the say. Looking forward to your next video. All the best!
40 years ago Ialways wrapped from the top down for all the reasons you say. However that was with Benotto tape which was thin and smooth. With modern cork ribbon tape it is more comfortable for the rider to tape from the bottom up as it makes a smoother feel, which is why I do it that way even though it doesn't look as nice
I wrap lots of bars and have always used the correct method where you outwards on the lower bar and then swap direction by wrapping towards the rider on the top of the bar. I have always understood that this wears better when riders grip the bars tightly. However I’m not sure I fully believed that it worked this way. Your method does make sense and is a lot less faffing around. I’ll try it on my next wrap and monitor the wear and tear on the bar wrap 👍 34:04
I do my tape from the stem down too as I like the tapeless look. I do mine wound the other direction though as it's far easier to turn round the bend and looks better IMHO with the tape overlaps pointing in a "forward arrow" when looking down in a riding position rather than pointing "outwards" or different directions. with patterns just use the tape from the other end but I always wind the exact opposite each side so they mirror each other.
@@reginaldscot165 if it does have a pattern, I'm guessing you're talking about a pattern or texture up one side, could you not start the wrap from the other end of the tape to flip it?
ONE issue Reginald - at 29:18 in your video . . . it's best not to cover the small rectangular openings in the lever body (that the"placement bosses" in the hoods fit into) with tape to avoid unsightly and potentially uncomfortable "lumps" in the hoods. Otherwise, even though you very nicely and effectively present your take on taping, I think I'll stick with the "right" way to tape bars . . . with a little practice one can VERY nicely finish off the tape at any predetermined spot. I enjoy your videos - greetings from Canada!
Great comment! Yes you are right (normally) but this Vento tape is so soft that it will get easily pressed down into those holes and will just add to the padding. But you are 100% correct when using most tapes. 🙂👍🏻 All the best!
The 'wrong' direction is better for grip in my experience plus, as you said, easier to finish and get looking neater. The theory of 'correct' direction is better 'aero' as you don't have sharp edge standing in direction of airflow on lower section. (you'll have to ask Hambini to do an analyses 😁) Wrapping an exhaust system on car or motorcycle, you wrap in direction that is less likely to collect road grime so 'correct' direction. With non stretchy bar tape, cutting out a tiny 'V' allows it to sit flat, the overlap needs to be over the uncut bottom of 'V' (I worked at a BMW motorcycle dealers, we had to go around bikes and make sure screw slots lined up as well as other cosmetic only things) Getting overlap even all the way down for 'aesthetics' is quite difficult in my opinion and experience, plus virtually no one even notices. Oh, on black tape, use a sharpie on the 'grey' edges, makes it look even better (not my idea I saw a friend do it)
This is not the "wrong" way. This is actually the original or traditional way of wrapping bars. The wrap style starting from the end was actually popularized by major brands like Giant and Trek on their built bikes. It was done this way for 2 main reasons, it was faster to wrap the bars in the factory coz even inexperienced workers can do this wrap easily, second is it prevented tape roll for most riders...
30 years riding. Bottom to top Reg. :-) Re maintenance; Can leave clamp and bolt on bar. No tape removed! however a little fussy putting lever body back on under feather edges of tape. Re electrical tape, use vinyl not pvc tape for very little glue leak/slip on hot days.
I am a top down guy too! There is way too much overthink in all the bar tape wrapping anyway wind it on tight up or doWn clockwise or anticlockwise omfg ITS BAR TAPE
Great video, thanks. My children seem to be able to trash the bar tape I do for their bikes, even though my own efforts are fine. I'll give this a go, hopefully it will last better.
@@reginaldscot165 One of my children is hanging his D-lock from his bars. That's what was shredding the tape, and why it kept unravelling. Not my shonky technique.
I think you argue very well for wrapping the bar tape the “wrong” way. Though I wonder a bit over what you say from about 19:37 to 20:03. I thought wrapping the tape in reverse would make it much easier to unwrap. Could you please confirm/disconfirm this?
You mean easier to remove when you want to or that it will come undone? If the latter I can safely say this has never happened to me and if you wrap tightly it won’t happen to you also. 🙂👍🏻
Been doing this for like a decade or more, never unrolled the tape. Also. If that was really a problem, unrolling would be an issue for the drops when taping bottom up.
I tried it that way on my gravel bike a couple of years ago. I did it because I was in the rain a lot in a gravel race and the tape on one side just wouldn't stick anymore. It does look nice and is clean. But, there is one major drawback. Since the hands now push against an edge when on the hoods, the tape starts coming apart. The top layer starts being pealed back. So, I had to change out the tape sooner than typical.
It *can* be a problem… but I find it very much depends on the rider, the riding style and the brand of tape, try finding a tape that has a tapered edge. That way the tape over laps better. Oh why not try the FIZIK gravel tape! It’s called Tera I believe and I used it on my gravel bike and it really lasted, it can also be removed, washed and put back! 😁
@reginaldscot165 I love Fizik tape, but it has been primarily on my road bike. Supcaz is the brand that started peeling on me. I wouldn't even attempt it again with Lizard Skin. That stuff falls apart quickly period. You've convinced me to give it another try. Thanks!
Hi Reginald, You could have cut the bit for the shifter band and had it ready before you syaryed wrapping. Then you could do it 2 handed. I prefer the expanding (with a screw) bar end plugs. If you did want it the other way and finished with electrical tape, there are ather colours than black (eg yellow). On my first drop bar bike (in the 1980s), the tape was wrapped your way and that was the advice back then.
Great comment! 1) yes you are correct, preparation is everything. 😎 2) oh no I can’t stand those things! So unnecessarily over-engineered and heavy! 30g for plugs Vs 4g for my fizik ones? No thank 😅 Also I find that they get stuck sometimes (especially if over tightened by someone and can be a pain to remove. 🤦🏻♂️ 3) is that so? Well I was born 1985 so perhaps I heard my dad (who was also a cyclist) mention it and it stuck in my subconscious until I started cycling? 😁 Thank you for the comment and safe riding!
Have you heard of Grepp bar tape ? They also recommend top to bar end wrapping. I alway used to do it , too, but the last three times or so i started at the ends. When I've trashed my current tape, im back to ends first. Nice vid, as usual.
Hummm 🤔 my only suggestion is sell it and buy mechanical. 😅 But joking aside, is it not possible to use say a nice neat diagonal cut and some liberal helping of double sided tape and then a thin pinstripe of electrical tape just at the end? It’s a lot more work but it might work for you. Or try clear tape? It won’t be as visible from a distance. 🤔
Yes it can be tricky, but this style works if you have enough tape. Personally when I had aero bars I stopped the tape just past the hoods and left the blade tape free. That way you can get 2 bar tape replacements out of 1 box of tape! 😁
When I first started watching I though nah that doesn't sound right but having watched it, it makes sense and no messing with tape. I will give it a go next time I do it!
I must admit I do wrap my handlebar tape at the 'correct way round'. I must admit I do prefer the tape so that the force from my hands doesn't act on the edge of the tape. Otherwise, many of the points Reginald makes are quite panicity from my point of view. I suppose I'm trying to say the direction of wrapping is not that important to me. However, that electrical tape issue is something that disturbs me so I use this technique: ua-cam.com/video/F8japudqLDE/v-deo.htmlsi=Sn88VY4SkuL2q3UG
My favorite tape is BBB FlexRibbon its more durable than even most PU tapes but not a PITA to wrap. They do a thicker GravelRibbon too if you want more shock absorbing qualities.
In the old days with cloth or the Benotto celo tape, I started at the top..with the advent of cork or the newer padded stuff, I start at the bottom and finish at the top with silicone self healing tape..not the standard electrical tape..
fun fact: Schwinn for many decades (at least when they was still building bikes by their own not just importing rebranded stuff) was wrapping handlebars from top to bottom supplied from their factory although their tape was non-cushion more like a perforated thin plastic liner very tightly wrapped (1/3 width overlay only) as said this wasn't aftermarket but factory supplied material so wouldn't call this method 'wrong' as there are others who done it this way as well
Well, there will be a problem with moving a shifter after such bar wrapping, because housings are firmly clamped to the bar with tbe electrical tape. So one gonna need to unwrap the whole handlebar to move the shifter.
@@reginaldscot165 On the video @19:03 the cable housings are fixed to the handlebar with some electrical tape (if I see correctly). So, in order to move down the shifter for ~1-2 cm, one needs to unwrap the whole right side of the handlebar. For such a move, the end cups (with this thin nose that has a special plastic flange) of the shifting housing will slip away from the shifter.
I’m a mechanic and tape with lizard skin. Their” do not pull” message is because you can’t . It’s very stiff bu I manage to pull it a few millimeters enough to get it done and looking good
It doesn't matter how your cat looks, as long as it may catch mice! I normally, as now 76, started in the middle so that it looked finished, and at the bar ends, it would be locked with the end plug! Finn. Denmark
I don't mind the top down, I can even agree that it probably really is the better way in the grand scheme of things. However, why not at least continue to wrap in the so called "correct" direction? Start on top, but wrap towards the back of the bike.
You, GCPerformance, and George Vargas (other cycling YTers), couldn't be more different, yet all wrap top to bottom. Guess I'll be trying this next go around.
Is that true? I never noticed that! You know what they say, “great minds think alike!” I’m a fan of Vargas, not sure about GC, as they say “the jury is still out on that one…” 😅 All the best! And good luck!
@@gilletteguy787😂😂thanks for the shout-out 🎉 I have addressed the so-called ugly bump in some of my videos but it seems you might not have seen or heard the explanation since you are hung up on the term ugly rather than the functionality of my method … sometimes. 1. Some tapes have terrible, if almost non-existent, adhesive on their underside. 😢 2. Some customers ride with a death grip on their handlebar . They have a tendency to rip,tear or unravel the wrap 😢 3. If either of these conditions are present, or the perfect storm both conditions, then when you begin the wrap top down you have to do ONE overlapping wrap about 90 % coverage to prevent the aforementioned issues. The thicker the tape the bigger the lump. 4. Side note - Sadly people think thicker bar tape will ameliorate their poor bike fit. 5. Side note - the “ugly” “bump” feels good as you grip the bar, gently of course 😉, with you Index finger and thumb and the middle finger is off the ledge. You should try it sometime. It all comes down to knowing your equipment and knowing your customer’s riding habits. For most of my wraps there is no bump however for that special customer unfortunately form needs to take second place to function. On my personal bikes I use tape that has excellent adhesive. The first wrap is barely noticeable and so no visible or physical bump. My hands ride very lightly on the bars.
People always complain when we do long format. I watched the entire video and heard tons of useful information that should be shared with non mechanic types of people I always say in my videos “the why” is significantly more important than “the how”. Just showing someone how to wrap bars would be 5 minutes with pretty editing. But “the why” gained over years of experience is why
Great video but is it just me or ur headset seems too tight. I noticed it when u moved ur handle bars. Maybe loosen the preloader slightly. And not the have the play in the forks
Thank you! I use Morgan Blue Aqua proof grease to protect the bearings and it’s quite thick so that slows the movement down. It’s also perfectly balanced on this stand so went you let go it stays put. The cables on my bike are also quite stiff because I keep them short as possible. But if you lifted the frame the bar would turn by itself. 🙂👍🏻 See my latest headset service video to see how I do it. 😉
You seem to favor the visibility of the tape’s logo and pattern more important that the direction of the wrap (forward vs back). Other UA-camrs seem to give direction the higher priority.
Yes they do, personally I have never experienced and disadvantage to the wrapping direction. I hear people say it will unravel or something but so far it’s never happened? Keep it tight and it’s fine! 😎👍🏻
You have some compelling reasons to wrap your tape "the wrong way". However, I have one major issue with it. That being, the tape edges are pointing against the way you normally move your hands. You can see it in your old tape where the edges are rolled over in several places. That would be way more annoying to me that a little bit of tape residue. With respect to that electrical tape residue and tape unwinding: Yes I've seen the residue from time to time, and have seen electrical tape glue give up. (After a very long time...) However, I usually just check my tape when I wash the bike, and replace it when it's starting to look questionable. Granted, most of my 30+ years of riding have been done in Colorado which is semi-arid environment. If you are really worried about tape coming undone, go old school and use some waxed thread to "whip" or "whip-tie" the end. It looks cool and will not come undone.
Please examine the video again. You will see that the edges of the tape are not “rolled up” in any location. The surface of the tape is missing, that is a result of. Normal use and the fact the tape is old stock. I explained this in the video as I knew people would raise this suspected non-issue. 😘
I can't understand any of your objections to wrapping bars the conventional way but I guess I don't see much harm in doing it your way either. Personally I prefer the aesthetics of the conventional way with finishing tape and see no drawbacks.
I explained all the drawbacks in the video? 🤔 I made is abundantly clear why I object and why it’s not as good… some say I spent too long doing that, people joke I spent 30 minutes explaining that. 🙃
I understand that you think wrapping the conventional way isn't as good but I just disagree. I've wrapped countless bars and have experienced none of the drawbacks you mentioned. Thanks for the content and I very much enjoy your videos! @@reginaldscot165
Nothing here has persuaded me to change from wrapping bottom to top. You make mountains out of molehills with all the "cons" of wrapping the right way, who the hell can't find the end of the finishing strip when they're unwrapping old tape ? Never heard of anyone cutting their old tape with a Stanley knife. Can't remove the backing paper from the sticky strip ? Really ? Any sticky stuff left over after unwrapping comes off with white spirit and elbow grease. Electrical tape that oozes ? Never had that either.
I think this is the difference of somebody who works on their own bike and someone who works in a bike shop. All of the experiences you have never had I have seen multiple times. 😁 And yes, sometimes I am forced to use a knife to remove bar tape and yes sometimes the tape is so stuck on that it take serious effort to remove. 🙂 I’m glad your tape works for you. Safe riding! 🙂👍🏻
Yep this is always the case people with small sample size and then there is us - we hundreds if not thousands of bikes in one year. Everything you mentioned I’ve innumerable amount of times in 20 plus years of being a paid bike mechanic and shop owner.
As a one time race mechanic, I can't understand this obsession with handlebar tape. It's a breeding ground for bacteria, so buy cheap and change often. Also, that bar tape is already unrolling.
Sorry to contradict, but my tape is definitely not unrolling. 😁 been doing it this way for years and it’s never happened. This particular tape is really old stock so the surface is definitely coming off soon. 🤷🏻♂️😅
@@harryrowland4734do you mean because he doesn’t want or need to ride in the hoods? I ride 80% of the time on the tops of my bars would you then tell me my stem is too long? I ride the hoods/drops in spirited groups - drops on descents, sprints or 20% steep ass hills but the rest of time (over 10,000 miles per year) I ride the tops and that’s where you will see the wear on my tape. Come on man, this - I’m going to question your bike fit virtually stuff gets old on UA-cam
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad if you wear through the tape area just short of the hoods, it can be an indication that the reach to the hoods is too long. Don't take my word for this, get a second opinion from a respected bike fitter.
@@harryrowland4734 I have been a bike fitter for over 20 years but let's set that aside for now. You are using causation in place of correlation. Just because the bar tape is worn "just short of the hoods" doesn't mean 100% that the stem is too long. So as you said it "can be an indication..." but far too often it's not at all. The tape can be worn there because it's a rider's preference hence there will be more wear and tear there. I am an ultra-cyclist. I spend hours upon hours, days upon days, riding alone because many of my races are non-draft legal. There is no immediate danger that I can't respond to in time from my top position to the hoods. No riders many times for miles and miles. For me there is no reason on a multi-day ultra to ride exclusively in the hoods. Hence, my bar tape shows most of the wear "just short of the hoods" I have to be much more concerned about Shermer's neck issues than riding the hoods because you think my stem is too long. And so I train as I race and race as I train I spend very little time in the hoods and most of my time "just short of the hoods" Remember it is about preference and rider comfort not some proposed racer Rick position that every rider must adopt.
I've been wrapping my bars this way for the past 40 years because it always made the most sense to me. Thank you showing this sensible approach to bar wrapping in this informative video.
Thank you kindly! Yes I’m the same, it just seems logical to me. 😁👍🏻
I was born in 1949 (so I'm 75). When I was a teenager my Father (born 1925) taught me to tape the bars top down. In recent years I have fallen in with fashion. I have never liked bottom up and find it difficult to do - with or without figure of eight which I always get wrong!
Having seen your video and a few others I will go back to what my Daddy told me!
Thanks for your prompt.
Thank you for the lovely comment. Sometimes the old ways are still the best. It will also be a nice to honour the memories with your Father. If anyone asks why you do your tape that way you can tell them the same story. 🙂
I've been wrapping my bars this way for 36 years.
Never had any problems with rolled edges or water/dirt ingress making the tape slip.
I personally have taped over 30,000 bars this way.
I used to work at Raleigh in Nottingham, England.
This was the way they used to do it for millions of bikes.
The job could get a little bit boring after a while when all you are doing is taping 125 bars a day.
Amazing! I’m from Nottingham by the way. 🙂 Now living in Brunei, but I always thought this style made sense. 😁
By far the best bar taping video I've watched. Stem clamp to bar end makes good sense. Thanks
That’s wonderful! Thank you! ❤️
I'm also wrapping my bar tape this way. I was first introduce to this method by my mechanic about 10 years ago and according to him, he learnt it from a pro-bike mechanic. Anyway, I prefer not using electrical tape because of the adhesive. They can't last very long here in Singapore and will become a mess.
Ah Singapore! My friend is returning there soon, I will have to pop by for a ride! 😁👍🏻
I've been wrapping my bars with this method for at least 5 years, primarily for aesthetics but I've found the other points you make true as well
Excellent!
SEE SEE IM NOT CRAZY! THEY ALL SAID I WAS MAD! HA HA HA! MAD THEY SAY!
😄
My local bike shop recommended to wrap the wrong way because it prevents dirts or grime stuck on the sticky finishing tape and I’m glad he did it the wrong way and never had any problems plus it looks neat too!
Awesome! I’m glad I’m not the only one. 😁
Love this. If you are a thinking person and you have a reasoned approach for going against conventional "wisdom", people who don't like it may be lumped into the narrow minded bin. Well done, Reg!
Thank you kindly! ❤️
I just used this method to wrap my bars. Came out perfect the first try! Very comprehensive video.
Thank you so much! ❤️
Nice TI bike ,that’s how bar tape was wrapped in the 1980s! Will give it a try soon
It’s an excellent Ti bike! 😁 if you want to know more I have a video on it. (The worlds best performance road bike) that’s a cool bit of history a few people have mentioned now and it’s actually something I didn’t know so thank you! 🙏🏻🙂
Safe riding!
I do have a Van Nicholas TI bike too, seat post and stern TI too
HAHAHAHA! This is the content I come here for, as it consistently reinforces that I have a predilection for doing things the "wrong way". It's become a point of pride for me.
I’m really glad to have your views! Thank you and yes, it’s good to be different. 😉👍🏻
I go back to the old cotton bar tape days in the 70's and used to wrap the "wrong" way and the edges of that stuff always rolled up but that's probably due to lack of stretch in the old style tape. I'm guessing the top down method started because of that but modern bar tapes look like they're more forgiving, worth another look, I'll give it a try next time around.
That’s interesting, thank you. 🙂👍🏻
Best way by far. Been doing this for over 30 years. LBS spot on like Reginald
Thank you 🙏🏻
I found exactly the opposite on my bikes. I did top down taping for years with Tressostar tape and never thought twice about it until I put two layers on the bars. When I did this, I was killing the tape exactly the way your bars look way before you replaced it. I changed to bottom up and never had the issue again. Been doing that for a very long time now. I agree with all your arguments about the ease of top down wrapping, but it just doesn't work for me.
The way my bars look is because the tape I’m using is basically faulty and as soon as you touch it the surface rubs off. But you can still see the edge isn’t curling up. 👍🏻😊
Wish I found this video yesterday. Video saved for next installation. Great video 👍
Thank you! ❤️
Not another bar tape wrapping video was what I thought when I first saw this, but somehow you made it worth it. I wrapped my own bar tape for the firs time a few months ago. It used to be that that my local bike shop would wrap your bars for free if you bought the bar tape from them at full retail. Now they charge a few dollars and I don't mind but it was something I wanted to learn so I bought two packages of tape (fortunately didn't need the second one, it's for my gravel bike now when I need to change it) and did exactly as the instructions said, the "right" way as opposed to your "wrong" way. I had to re-wrap one bar after a few rides probably because it was the first side I did and didn't wrap it quite as tight as I should. Not sure if I'll try your "wrong" way next time but appreciate the instruction. Always nice knowing alternative methods so you can experiment and find what works best for you.
Thank you very much and well done on your own tape! The question I have is if you thought “oh no not another…” what motivated you to click? 🤔 Sorry for asking but that would be super useful information for me as a “creator.” Goodness, doesn’t “creator” sound incredibly pretentious? That’s the last time I call myself that. 🤣
@@reginaldscot165 It's not pretentious to call yourself a creator when it's an accurate description of what you do. Not sure exactly what motivated me to watch but I think the phrase "a better wrong way" helped.
Something I've noticed lately (probably belatedly!) is that whilst racing in the 70/80/90s it was most common to ride on the drops, rather than the more recent/modern approach of riding on the tops - look at old photos...
With this change of riding style it now means that wrapping in the other direction (for the tops anyways) seems a better approach... Radical changes! ❤
You can change the direction of the wrap between top and bottom (and hide the spot at the brifter clamp). Ultimately how it looks isn't the reason people wrap from the bottom. Its to get the wrap in the right direction so that you don't unravel the tape while riding. Going top down means you are peeling back the tape on the drops. Going bottom to top means you have the drops in the right manner (protecting top edge of each wrap) and then figure 8 at the brifter to get the pressure direction right on top.
The main reason why people ride more on the hoods is brifters...not so easy to use from the drops, unless you have long fingers. That's why I went back to downtube shifters.
I find when I wrap top down I get a better grip on the drops and my hands slip down less. 🙂
Interesting, ever tried to adjust the brake lever?
Great and informative comment. 🙂👍🏻
Great vid! I just use the cheapest bar tape I can find, no adhesive backing, as long as it’s stretched tight it’s not going anywhere.
And that’s the smart thing to do! 😎👍🏻
Thanks for the tip, next time I'll try this way👍
Hope it works for you! For best results use the basic synthetic cook tape with a slightly tapered edge. 😉👍🏻
Hey Reginald good video.
I’ve always started my taping from the bottom.
But hey !
Horses for courses
as the say.
Looking forward to your next video.
All the best!
Thank you kindly!
40 years ago Ialways wrapped from the top down for all the reasons you say. However that was with Benotto tape which was thin and smooth. With modern cork ribbon tape it is more comfortable for the rider to tape from the bottom up as it makes a smoother feel, which is why I do it that way even though it doesn't look as nice
Great comment! Thanks 😊
Brilliant! Thanks for sharing.
My pleasure! 😁
I've always used sellotape to fix the cables to the bars under the bartape as it doesn't stretch.
Nice video.
Thank you. 🙂👍🏻
Good quality masking tape does the same job for the same reason, but it won't leave residue.
I wrap lots of bars and have always used the correct method where you outwards on the lower bar and then swap direction by wrapping towards the rider on the top of the bar. I have always understood that this wears better when riders grip the bars tightly. However I’m not sure I fully believed that it worked this way.
Your method does make sense and is a lot less faffing around.
I’ll try it on my next wrap and monitor the wear and tear on the bar wrap 👍 34:04
Great I hope it works out for you. All the best! 🙏🏻👍🏻
Nice tutorial. I've always wrapped bars the "traditional" way bottom - up. But i'm going to try top - down next time.
Cool, give it a try! 😁👍🏻
Fantastic, I'll try this
Great 👍🏻 🙂
I do my tape from the stem down too as I like the tapeless look. I do mine wound the other direction though as it's far easier to turn round the bend and looks better IMHO with the tape overlaps pointing in a "forward arrow" when looking down in a riding position rather than pointing "outwards" or different directions. with patterns just use the tape from the other end but I always wind the exact opposite each side so they mirror each other.
Yes I actually do that if my tape has no pattern because I notice the direction more. I should have mentioned this in the video. 😄
@@reginaldscot165 if it does have a pattern, I'm guessing you're talking about a pattern or texture up one side, could you not start the wrap from the other end of the tape to flip it?
Ace. Just what I need. Ive ordered 3 sets of cheap tape of AliExpress to practice. Hopefully I'll get the hang of it eventually.
Cheers
Cool and good luck! 👍🏻🙂
ONE issue Reginald - at 29:18 in your video . . . it's best not to cover the small rectangular openings in the lever body (that the"placement bosses" in the hoods fit into) with tape to avoid unsightly and potentially uncomfortable "lumps" in the hoods. Otherwise, even though you very nicely and effectively present your take on taping, I think I'll stick with the "right" way to tape bars . . . with a little practice one can VERY nicely finish off the tape at any predetermined spot. I enjoy your videos - greetings from Canada!
Great comment! Yes you are right (normally) but this Vento tape is so soft that it will get easily pressed down into those holes and will just add to the padding. But you are 100% correct when using most tapes. 🙂👍🏻
All the best!
The 'wrong' direction is better for grip in my experience plus, as you said, easier to finish and get looking neater.
The theory of 'correct' direction is better 'aero' as you don't have sharp edge standing in direction of airflow on lower section. (you'll have to ask Hambini to do an analyses 😁)
Wrapping an exhaust system on car or motorcycle, you wrap in direction that is less likely to collect road grime so 'correct' direction.
With non stretchy bar tape, cutting out a tiny 'V' allows it to sit flat, the overlap needs to be over the uncut bottom of 'V' (I worked at a BMW motorcycle dealers, we had to go around bikes and make sure screw slots lined up as well as other cosmetic only things)
Getting overlap even all the way down for 'aesthetics' is quite difficult in my opinion and experience, plus virtually no one even notices.
Oh, on black tape, use a sharpie on the 'grey' edges, makes it look even better (not my idea I saw a friend do it)
Excellent comment and lots of useful information. Thank you kindly! 🙏🏻🙂
This is not the "wrong" way. This is actually the original or traditional way of wrapping bars. The wrap style starting from the end was actually popularized by major brands like Giant and Trek on their built bikes. It was done this way for 2 main reasons, it was faster to wrap the bars in the factory coz even inexperienced workers can do this wrap easily, second is it prevented tape roll for most riders...
That’s a fantastic bit of history, thanks for your comment! 🙏🏻🙂
30 years riding. Bottom to top Reg. :-)
Re maintenance; Can leave clamp and bolt on bar. No tape removed! however a little fussy putting lever body back on under feather edges of tape.
Re electrical tape, use vinyl not pvc tape for very little glue leak/slip on hot days.
I feel like I answered the comment already. 🤔 😅
I am a top down guy too! There is way too much overthink in all the bar tape wrapping anyway wind it on tight up or doWn clockwise or anticlockwise omfg ITS BAR TAPE
Very true! 😁
Great video, thanks. My children seem to be able to trash the bar tape I do for their bikes, even though my own efforts are fine. I'll give this a go, hopefully it will last better.
You are welcome and thank you!
@@reginaldscot165 One of my children is hanging his D-lock from his bars. That's what was shredding the tape, and why it kept unravelling. Not my shonky technique.
I think you argue very well for wrapping the bar tape the “wrong” way. Though I wonder a bit over what you say from about 19:37 to 20:03. I thought wrapping the tape in reverse would make it much easier to unwrap. Could you please confirm/disconfirm this?
You mean easier to remove when you want to or that it will come undone? If the latter I can safely say this has never happened to me and if you wrap tightly it won’t happen to you also. 🙂👍🏻
Great video , what brand of lightweight cables do you use / recommend?
The Chinese ones I have are good. Check out my T1SL behind the scenes build video to see them In better detail. 🙂👍🏻 thank you! ❤️
Been doing this for like a decade or more, never unrolled the tape. Also. If that was really a problem, unrolling would be an issue for the drops when taping bottom up.
Same, never had my tape unroll, and when I need to change it it comes off easily. 🙂
Great Video
Thank you! Glad you enjoyed it. 🙂
I tried it that way on my gravel bike a couple of years ago. I did it because I was in the rain a lot in a gravel race and the tape on one side just wouldn't stick anymore. It does look nice and is clean. But, there is one major drawback. Since the hands now push against an edge when on the hoods, the tape starts coming apart. The top layer starts being pealed back. So, I had to change out the tape sooner than typical.
It *can* be a problem… but I find it very much depends on the rider, the riding style and the brand of tape, try finding a tape that has a tapered edge. That way the tape over laps better. Oh why not try the FIZIK gravel tape! It’s called Tera I believe and I used it on my gravel bike and it really lasted, it can also be removed, washed and put back! 😁
@reginaldscot165 I love Fizik tape, but it has been primarily on my road bike. Supcaz is the brand that started peeling on me. I wouldn't even attempt it again with Lizard Skin. That stuff falls apart quickly period. You've convinced me to give it another try. Thanks!
Thanks for the previous video review on how horrible the Vento bar tape is. It saved me from making a $25 mistake
It’s ok when it’s new, but the best stuff is definitely the classic touch. 😉👍🏻
Hi Reginald, You could have cut the bit for the shifter band and had it ready before you syaryed wrapping. Then you could do it 2 handed.
I prefer the expanding (with a screw) bar end plugs.
If you did want it the other way and finished with electrical tape, there are ather colours than black (eg yellow).
On my first drop bar bike (in the 1980s), the tape was wrapped your way and that was the advice back then.
Great comment!
1) yes you are correct, preparation is everything. 😎
2) oh no I can’t stand those things! So unnecessarily over-engineered and heavy! 30g for plugs Vs 4g for my fizik ones? No thank 😅 Also I find that they get stuck sometimes (especially if over tightened by someone and can be a pain to remove. 🤦🏻♂️
3) is that so? Well I was born 1985 so perhaps I heard my dad (who was also a cyclist) mention it and it stuck in my subconscious until I started cycling? 😁
Thank you for the comment and safe riding!
Have you heard of Grepp bar tape ? They also recommend top to bar end wrapping.
I alway used to do it , too, but the last three times or so i started at the ends. When I've trashed my current tape, im back to ends first.
Nice vid, as usual.
No I’m not sure I have? Thank you kindly! 😊🙏🏻
9:10 a quality electrical tape like 3M Scotch Super 33+ will leave no residue and conform tightly to itself.
Cool! But I’m too cheap to my branded tape… I get the stuff that’s 20c a roll. 😂
My fizik classic bar tape I bought in 2013 is still going strong on my "Saturday long rides" bike 11 years later
I know, that stuff was legendary. ❤️
Any suggestions for bikes with di2 and the bar end port/junction. Are these best done the other way with leccy tape?
Pretty much the only way, that's how I wrap them, also partly not wanting to waste time to think of an alternate way.
Hummm 🤔 my only suggestion is sell it and buy mechanical. 😅
But joking aside, is it not possible to use say a nice neat diagonal cut and some liberal helping of double sided tape and then a thin pinstripe of electrical tape just at the end?
It’s a lot more work but it might work for you. Or try clear tape? It won’t be as visible from a distance. 🤔
I always leave one layer of old bartape on the bar and wrap a new layer on top. By that I have a very soft, thick and grippy bar.
Don’t forget to change it sometimes! You might find something nasty underneath it… 🫣
Good video. My policy on handlebars is “aero only” as I like flat bars to rest my hands on. Makes wrapping a bit tricky.
I've not used the tops of my bars on any road bike for ten years
@@Shadowboost are you like Marco Pantani climbing in the drops?
@@mrichards55 nah, my bars would have to be too low for that. I'm always on the hoods
Yes it can be tricky, but this style works if you have enough tape. Personally when I had aero bars I stopped the tape just past the hoods and left the blade tape free. That way you can get 2 bar tape replacements out of 1 box of tape! 😁
When I first started watching I though nah that doesn't sound right but having watched it, it makes sense and no messing with tape. I will give it a go next time I do it!
I must admit I do wrap my handlebar tape at the 'correct way round'. I must admit I do prefer the tape so that the force from my hands doesn't act on the edge of the tape. Otherwise, many of the points Reginald makes are quite panicity from my point of view. I suppose I'm trying to say the direction of wrapping is not that important to me. However, that electrical tape issue is something that disturbs me so I use this technique: ua-cam.com/video/F8japudqLDE/v-deo.htmlsi=Sn88VY4SkuL2q3UG
That was interesting, thanks 🙏🏻 🙂
My favorite tape is BBB FlexRibbon its more durable than even most PU tapes but not a PITA to wrap. They do a thicker GravelRibbon too if you want more shock absorbing qualities.
Oh yeah BBB tapes are awesome! I sell the BBB Race ribbon and it’s the best value and durable/comfortable tapes I have! 👍🏻❤️
In the old days with cloth or the Benotto celo tape, I started at the top..with the advent of cork or the newer padded stuff, I start at the bottom and finish at the top with silicone self healing tape..not the standard electrical tape..
Nice 👍🏻
fun fact: Schwinn for many decades (at least when they was still building bikes by their own not just importing rebranded stuff) was wrapping handlebars from top to bottom supplied from their factory although their tape was non-cushion more like a perforated thin plastic liner very tightly wrapped (1/3 width overlay only) as said this wasn't aftermarket but factory supplied material so wouldn't call this method 'wrong' as there are others who done it this way as well
Yes I was being silly when I said “wrong” but if you ask GCN they will says it’s wrong. 😅
Well, there will be a problem with moving a shifter after such bar wrapping, because housings are firmly clamped to the bar with tbe electrical tape. So one gonna need to unwrap the whole handlebar to move the shifter.
You can move the shifters without removing the cable housing. 🙂
@@reginaldscot165 On the video @19:03 the cable housings are fixed to the handlebar with some electrical tape (if I see correctly). So, in order to move down the shifter for ~1-2 cm, one needs to unwrap the whole right side of the handlebar. For such a move, the end cups (with this thin nose that has a special plastic flange) of the shifting housing will slip away from the shifter.
29:20 - with the double overlap there's a way to wrap the tape without the extra random bit at the back of the shifter - that makes it even easier!
That’s true but I don’t like the way it looks after doing that way. Just a personal thing. 🙂
I’m a mechanic and tape with lizard skin. Their” do not pull” message is because you can’t . It’s very stiff bu I manage to pull it a few millimeters enough to get it done and looking good
I find if you pull it too much you get little lines in it. 🙂
I tried this once but the tape just curled up on the bend behind the leavers.
Try using synthetic cook with a slight reduction in edge thickness so it lays flat. 🙂👍🏻
It doesn't matter how your cat looks, as long as it may catch mice! I normally, as now 76, started in the middle so that it looked finished, and at the bar ends, it would be locked with the end plug! Finn. Denmark
Excellent 👌🏻
I don't mind the top down, I can even agree that it probably really is the better way in the grand scheme of things. However, why not at least continue to wrap in the so called "correct" direction? Start on top, but wrap towards the back of the bike.
Simply so you don’t cover the logo’s or pattern in the tape. I have found no issues regarding the direction, it just works. 🙂👍🏻
How about silicon tape instead of electric tape?
Never tried it! 😁
You, GCPerformance, and George Vargas (other cycling YTers), couldn't be more different, yet all wrap top to bottom. Guess I'll be trying this next go around.
The way George Vargas do it is ugly he made a bump on the starting point
Is that true? I never noticed that! You know what they say, “great minds think alike!” I’m a fan of Vargas, not sure about GC, as they say “the jury is still out on that one…” 😅
All the best! And good luck!
@@gilletteguy787😂😂thanks for the shout-out 🎉
I have addressed the so-called ugly bump in some of my videos but it seems you might not have seen or heard the explanation since you are hung up on the term ugly rather than the functionality of my method … sometimes.
1. Some tapes have terrible, if almost non-existent, adhesive on their underside. 😢
2. Some customers ride with a death grip on their handlebar . They have a tendency to rip,tear or unravel the wrap 😢
3. If either of these conditions are present, or the perfect storm both conditions, then when you begin the wrap top down you have to do ONE overlapping wrap about 90 % coverage to prevent the aforementioned issues. The thicker the tape the bigger the lump.
4. Side note - Sadly people think thicker bar tape will ameliorate their poor bike fit.
5. Side note - the “ugly” “bump” feels good as you grip the bar, gently of course 😉, with you Index finger and thumb and the middle finger is off the ledge. You should try it sometime.
It all comes down to knowing your equipment and knowing your customer’s riding habits. For most of my wraps there is no bump however for that special customer unfortunately form needs to take second place to function.
On my personal bikes I use tape that has excellent adhesive. The first wrap is barely noticeable and so no visible or physical bump. My hands ride very lightly on the bars.
Thank you for the extra information! 🙂👍🏻
I can't believe anybody could make a 35 minute video on wrapping just one side of the bars.
That’s bad right, cause I’m trying to find the relevant interesting information and I’m quitting at 7 minutes
Maybe you should have checked the helpful time stamps I left in the description. 😁
Technically that was only part of the video, but feel free to use the time stamps to jump the intro and discussion. 😎👍🏻
People always complain when we do long format. I watched the entire video and heard tons of useful information that should be shared with non mechanic types of people
I always say in my videos “the why” is significantly more important than “the how”. Just showing someone how to wrap bars would be 5 minutes with pretty editing. But “the why” gained over years of experience is why
Ha ha yeah, I’m happy when I get that 1 person who’s says. “Wow great video, i learned so much, it was helpful.” 😁👍🏻
Great video but is it just me or ur headset seems too tight. I noticed it when u moved ur handle bars. Maybe loosen the preloader slightly. And not the have the play in the forks
Thank you! I use Morgan Blue Aqua proof grease to protect the bearings and it’s quite thick so that slows the movement down. It’s also perfectly balanced on this stand so went you let go it stays put. The cables on my bike are also quite stiff because I keep them short as possible. But if you lifted the frame the bar would turn by itself. 🙂👍🏻 See my latest headset service video to see how I do it. 😉
You seem to favor the visibility of the tape’s logo and pattern more important that the direction of the wrap (forward vs back). Other UA-camrs seem to give direction the higher priority.
Yes they do, personally I have never experienced and disadvantage to the wrapping direction. I hear people say it will unravel or something but so far it’s never happened? Keep it tight and it’s fine! 😎👍🏻
Thus all makes sense. 😂😂
I’m so glad! 😆
Contador wrapped it this way for better grip
Nice bit of cycling history! 🙂👍🏻
You have some compelling reasons to wrap your tape "the wrong way". However, I have one major issue with it. That being, the tape edges are pointing against the way you normally move your hands. You can see it in your old tape where the edges are rolled over in several places. That would be way more annoying to me that a little bit of tape residue. With respect to that electrical tape residue and tape unwinding: Yes I've seen the residue from time to time, and have seen electrical tape glue give up. (After a very long time...) However, I usually just check my tape when I wash the bike, and replace it when it's starting to look questionable. Granted, most of my 30+ years of riding have been done in Colorado which is semi-arid environment. If you are really worried about tape coming undone, go old school and use some waxed thread to "whip" or "whip-tie" the end. It looks cool and will not come undone.
Please examine the video again. You will see that the edges of the tape are not “rolled up” in any location. The surface of the tape is missing, that is a result of. Normal use and the fact the tape is old stock. I explained this in the video as I knew people would raise this suspected non-issue. 😘
@@reginaldscot165 My apologies. I admit I skipped parts of the video. I see the section now where you talked about rolling the edges.
That’s the way I do it with electric tape 1st with the sticky side out
I’m not sure i follow? 🤔
I can't understand any of your objections to wrapping bars the conventional way but I guess I don't see much harm in doing it your way either. Personally I prefer the aesthetics of the conventional way with finishing tape and see no drawbacks.
I explained all the drawbacks in the video? 🤔 I made is abundantly clear why I object and why it’s not as good… some say I spent too long doing that, people joke I spent 30 minutes explaining that. 🙃
I understand that you think wrapping the conventional way isn't as good but I just disagree. I've wrapped countless bars and have experienced none of the drawbacks you mentioned. Thanks for the content and I very much enjoy your videos! @@reginaldscot165
I’m not a bad mechanic but still so shocking at bar tape. 😢
It’s just practice 🙂👍🏻 Don’t give up.
Nothing here has persuaded me to change from wrapping bottom to top. You make mountains out of molehills with all the "cons" of wrapping the right way, who the hell can't find the end of the finishing strip when they're unwrapping old tape ? Never heard of anyone cutting their old tape with a Stanley knife. Can't remove the backing paper from the sticky strip ? Really ? Any sticky stuff left over after unwrapping comes off with white spirit and elbow grease. Electrical tape that oozes ? Never had that either.
I think this is the difference of somebody who works on their own bike and someone who works in a bike shop. All of the experiences you have never had I have seen multiple times. 😁
And yes, sometimes I am forced to use a knife to remove bar tape and yes sometimes the tape is so stuck on that it take serious effort to remove. 🙂
I’m glad your tape works for you. Safe riding! 🙂👍🏻
Yep this is always the case people with small sample size and then there is us - we hundreds if not thousands of bikes in one year. Everything you mentioned I’ve innumerable amount of times in 20 plus years of being a paid bike mechanic and shop owner.
This is all sorts of wrong, The edge of the tape is the wrong way and will curl up or catch when riding!
Did you watch the video?
@@reginaldscot165 I did, all the way to the end. I just don't agree. Plus it looks weird wrapped that way.
Just my opinion.
As a one time race mechanic, I can't understand this obsession with handlebar tape.
It's a breeding ground for bacteria, so buy cheap and change often.
Also, that bar tape is already unrolling.
Sorry to contradict, but my tape is definitely not unrolling. 😁 been doing it this way for years and it’s never happened. This particular tape is really old stock so the surface is definitely coming off soon. 🤷🏻♂️😅
@@reginaldscot165 the wear is concentrated in that area and might be a sign that your stem is too long
@@harryrowland4734do you mean because he doesn’t want or need to ride in the hoods? I ride 80% of the time on the tops of my bars would you then tell me my stem is too long? I ride the hoods/drops in spirited groups - drops on descents, sprints or 20% steep ass hills but the rest of time (over 10,000 miles per year) I ride the tops and that’s where you will see the wear on my tape. Come on man, this - I’m going to question your bike fit virtually stuff gets old on UA-cam
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad if you wear through the tape area just short of the hoods, it can be an indication that the reach to the hoods is too long.
Don't take my word for this, get a second opinion from a respected bike fitter.
@@harryrowland4734 I have been a bike fitter for over 20 years but let's set that aside for now. You are using causation in place of correlation. Just because the bar tape is worn "just short of the hoods" doesn't mean 100% that the stem is too long. So as you said it "can be an indication..." but far too often it's not at all.
The tape can be worn there because it's a rider's preference hence there will be more wear and tear there. I am an ultra-cyclist. I spend hours upon hours, days upon days, riding alone because many of my races are non-draft legal. There is no immediate danger that I can't respond to in time from my top position to the hoods. No riders many times for miles and miles. For me there is no reason on a multi-day ultra to ride exclusively in the hoods. Hence, my bar tape shows most of the wear "just short of the hoods" I have to be much more concerned about Shermer's neck issues than riding the hoods because you think my stem is too long. And so I train as I race and race as I train I spend very little time in the hoods and most of my time "just short of the hoods"
Remember it is about preference and rider comfort not some proposed racer Rick position that every rider must adopt.