Sitting here in bed sipping on a cup of coffee this Fourth of July. Came across this video and since tires are a constant issue in the rv travel trailer forums I belong to decided to watch. Though not as flashy as some videos I have seen, I liked yours the best. The information you provided was clean, to the point and reflective of the points needed to pay attention to. I felt like I was listening to my good advice neighbor that was passing on some great learned lessons. Thank you for a great educational lesson. Saving this video and subscribing to see if you have more. Thank you and safe travels.
Be careful with the coffee. Thanks for the positive comment, and for subscribing. My channel is a mashup of things that interest me, and I think might be useful to others.
Nicely done....I have made all of your recommendations over the years but have added a speed rating of L for the 75 mph benefit. Not say I would run at that speed but to add the additional layer of redundancy. They goal is always arrive unharmed in great operational condition.
As battery powered tools have come down in price I've gotten away from carrying the standard 'lug wrench' Its 'faster' for tire changes and requires less effort. I also carry a wooden block for as a jack for my dual wheel car trailer as well as a 2.5 ton lightweight aluminum jack. I also never go anywhere without my torque wrench. Every morning before taking off I check both air pressure and wheel torque for changes between days. The Pittsburgh torque wrench from Harbor freight, while not the best, has maintained spec and only cost me $20. Great info. Thanks.
My two cents for this issue is, 1 for trailers always use ST tires, 2 always maintain the pressure at the maximum, 3 stay well under the recommended speed rating for that tire, 2 & 3 is more important then where they are made , 4 inspect the tires on regularly for damage, aging issues, uneven wear etc, 5 don't go cheap when buying always upgrade to higher rated tires. 6 practise changing your tires where it is safe by then you will have worked out any issue's tool's & jacks etc. Issues will come up be as ready as you can be.
Thanks for your input. Your first point is the only one I am not in full agreement with; even the "tire experts" dance around this question. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
I just bought a Lance trailer equipped with same tires from the factory. The original owner was puzzled when the original, Power King tires both blew out...causing similar and worse damage to the bottom of the trailer. She said they both had plenty of tread and looked fine, when they blew. The ragged leftover it came with confirms the claims of tread depth and rubber condition being fine when they blew. I got the trailer with one, Power king left on it, (the spare) and one Goodyear Endurance (american made supposedly). These are still only load range C, which I feel like is the main issue. Even aired up to the maximum of 50 psi, the sidewalls still flex too much, causing excessive heat and low contact pressure in the center of the tread. Simplest solution I know: replace with load range D, Goodyears, ( made in america or not, I've had good luck with goodyears even if they are a little spendy) Happy travels ;)
Thanks for the informative comment. I don't see many Lance trailers in my area, but I have heard good things about them. What a shame that manufacturers are using such crap! Carlisle has a new line of tires that they are promoting heavily; I hope they are safe. Please subscribe if you haven't already done so.
Thanks for sharing this informative information. Sorry, that you experienced this costly and dangerous event. We have been either very lucky or received great advice when the local tire center suggested a switch to TOWMAX ST tires with a load range of E, balanced and pressurized to the maximum. We also employ a set of Tire Minders. We have actually trashed those new RV equipped tires and replaced them with balanced TOWMAX tires. Yes, the Tire Minder work and have informed us of pressure loss due to road debris. 30K and still ok.
I think I will buy those next time I need tires for my travel trailer. Right now, I am using Carlisle tires that are rated for 85mph at 60 psi. Of course, I don't run more than 65 and usually closer to 55 max, but the tires are holding up well. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
Great video. Lots of good information, but I noticed one significant mistake.You say your tires were near their maximum load. This is incorrect. If you notice, the tires say maximum load 1760 at 50 psi. The load capacity of the tire is directly related to its inflation. Since your tires were under-inflated, their weight capacity decreased. With 20% under-inflation, their load capacity diminished by an amount larger than the under inflation. The load capacity of those tires was probably 30% lower than the 1760. In actuality, you were exceeding the load of those tires. Your real problem is an incompetent tire shop. If their technician said those tires should be inflated to 40 pounds, he is dangerous. Trailer tires should always be put at maximum cold capacity unless there is some special circumstance. The best thing you could do to avoid future blowouts, is to find tire technicians that know what the heck they're talking about!
Referring to white steel trailer wheel balancing. While getting my new trailer wheels spun balanced, I noticed the rims didn’t spin true. The hub hole was not in the exact center. A lot of weights were added, which caused great concern. Research online showed two types of spin balance - hub and lug. Hub uses a cone inserted into the hub hole. Lug requires an added ‘plate’ which the rim is bolted to mimicking the brake drum. Many of the weights were removed and some relocated.
Great job I have always used nitrogen for mr tires keeps them running cooler in hot climates and molecules are larger so less likely to bleed out in cold climates.
I just love your videos sweetie! So easy to follow and I love that you have the text written in your videos so someone like myself we have the ability to take notes! This comes from a one brain celled senior female!💜
I agree with everything you cited as a reason. The only thing I would (and have) remedied beyond what you did would be to add a Tire Pressure Monitoring System. These systems are coming down in price and are very reliable for constant monitoring of pressure and temperature.
@@ImnotChuck. I bought mine at a grand design rally. The guys set it all up for me. Couldn't have been easier. A few days later while reading some posts from other grand design owners who had attended that rally there was a post from a guy who bought the same system I have. He had an alarm go off on a camper wheel and pulled over to find a huge chunk of metal sticking through the tire. One of the millions of pieces of road debris we drive over every single day. Other than that alarm he had no idea there was any kind of problem. He was able to safely pull over and even drive on to a safe piece of road where he could change the tire. No camper damage, no truck damage, and nobody got hurt. It turned a potentially serious problem into a nothing event. I use it every time I take the camper out and I bought another set of sensors for my motorcycle trailer. I just set up a "Vehicle C" the truck and camper are Veh A, the truck alone is vehicle B and the truck and bike trailer are Veh C. A simple vehicle switch and I'm ready to roll.
Buying an Aliner? Positives/Negatives I've had two. In both the bubble window became cloudy and ruined the view. You can't stop the suns ultraviolet rays from changing the molecular structure. Many offer products that claim to clear it up; none work. Damage is on the inside of the pecan. $1,500 to replace each window. There are now many lightweight, small trailers on the market that you can stand up in the entire trailer not just the middle and then have to hunch over. While other travelers are pulling into rest areas or plazas and going right into their trailers for lunch or the bathroom, Aliners are opening up their trailers in the rain, snow skeet and hail, standing dangerously on a step where if they fall over backwards...or you can stand on the ground and strain your back. The 4 springs at each corner go bad in time as ALL springs do. Spending $20,000 and way up you want something to last. They tried lift tortion bars like on you lift gate. Then you fight them getting the top down. Dormers add to the weight. Much condensation on the inside of the bubble windows you can't stop unless you freeze in winter camping. By adding dormers, you still can't stand up at each end like normal people need. No such thing as jumping in the shower or commode. Compare to any other yourself. Low wind drag? Many other trailers in all sizes have curved or angled fronts now that cut the wind and you can stand up and access your camper fast. Most Aliner airconditioners stick out 8" so going through narrow tunnels or roads rural roads you must watch for mail boxes if incoming traffic or trucks must crowd you. Positives? Aliners are unique and for people who get fooled into thinking if they spend more they'll get more, then don't realize it till its too late. I sold both mine at a loss and glad I did.
Use an after-market TMPS that screws sensors onto the valve stems. It works (recently saved me from a blowout on US101). The TPMS gives temperature and pressure readings - they are very interesting to see each morning. Nitrogen filled tires is just plain silly for ordinary folks' tires.
It was a nightmare when it happened, but hasn't been repeated. I am now using the new Carlisle tires that are rated for 85 mph, but I still pull at 55 to 60. Thanks for posting.
I am astonished that a mechanic recommended under-inflating the tires. I have issues with most of them over inflating my auto tires - despite their work orders - from their own computer, directing them to use EOM pressures.
Wear on one side of a tire is an alignment problem. On an underinflated tire it will wear out both edges since you can't have a different air pressure inside the tire from one side of the tire to the other side.
Not Chuck, why not go up to load range E tires? That's a load of about 2800 lbs for each tire which is well above your trailer weight. Remember the hotter the tire gets the less weight it can handle. Wear and tear also reduces load capacity. This is only going to cost a maximum of about $150 extra in total for both tires. Another important factor is to make sure the rims can handle the tire and the recommended psi. Buy rims that handle psi loads beyond the capacity that your tires will be inflated to. Another good safety tip. Another thing you didn't touch on is to cover the tires when the trailer is parked to prevent UV damage and shorten the life of the tires. When buying tires check the date the tires were made. Never buy new tires more than about 6 or 8 months old. Inspect each tire for the date. Tires age out after about 5 years. Like you I'm not a tire expert however when I bought new tires for my class A I had this explained to me by a friend who is a tire expert. He explained it to me and gave me some reading material.
I;ve had two tires go bad on my 25 foot Dutchman. THey didnt blow out, thank goodness. What I observed was the tire would be oval in tread area. I noticed the tire was very hot with the other tire being normal temp. Both tires were 6 years old and in the rear. Did go over 70mph a few times. Could have been that. I always thought maybe I hit a pot hole and broke the tread belt. Also was running tire pressure at about 40lbs. That might have been it. Getting ready for another trip. Pumped tire pressure up to 48lbs, and getting that lead foot off the gas pedal.
I wish you the best of luck on your trip. I just finished a trip of about 1,200 miles on my new tires, which now have close to 2,000 miles on them. I took the trailer to the tire shop, and had them looked at. The pressure was down only a couple of pounds and the wear seemed light and even. My confidence is rising...slowly. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Interesting video, I agree with somethings stated in the video, but not all. 1) - Made in China. I don't think that Quality Control has much to do with where it was produced, but by whom, or what company. Just because something is made in the US doesn't guarantee that it will be of high quality, nor does something made in China indicate that it is of poor quality. There is a tire manufacturer (I think they only make LT truck tires, no trailer tires) in Houston, TX. Now I've never bought any tires from that manufacturer, but there are numerous UA-cam videos of customers who had suffered disastrous results from the use of tires from that manufacturer. One literally bought the tires, filled the tank, and the tires were done before his fuel tank required refueling. Personally I would focus more on which company made the tire (and its reputation) than where it was produced. 2) - Underinflation. Having tires underinflated it a quick way to have a blow out, I agree. If you look at a tire that's on the ground, loaded with weight, the tire is relatively round EXCEPT for where the point at which the tire contacts the ground, that's flat-ish. When the tire rotates, that point will spring back to round, until that point contacts the ground again, then it will flaten, then spring back to round, then flatten, then spring back.... I think you get the picture. Assuming that the tire is a 205/75R14 ( I think that's what I saw in the picture ), then the tire will have a diameter of about 26.1 inches. That means that the tire will rotate 773 times per mile. At 65 MPH, that means that any single point on the tire will flatten and spring back to round 50,245 times per hour. As long as the tire is fully inflated, there will be very little flattening and spring back, the tire can handle it. But if the tire is underinflated, that flattening and spring back will be torture. Imagine taking a paper clip and bending it back and forth. If you bend it back and forth just slightly, you can keep it up pretty much forever. But if you bend the paper clip back and forth at sharp angles, you'll only be able to bend it a few times before the paper clip breaks. That's what happens to the tires. 3) - Checking when tire are warm does skew the pressure readings. It's better to check when cold, but if warm, just add a few PSI to compensate ( rule of thumb is about 4 PSI ). 4) - Nitrogen. Another disagreement. About 70% of the air we breathe is nitrogen, along with the air in your tires if you use regular air. Pure nitrogen filled tires are more stable than regular air tires, and do provide a benefit in extreme conditions (airplane tires that handle 38 ton loads and go from the temperature on the ground to about -40 degrees ). Notice that I said pure. I've seen a lot of tire shops what sell nitrogen, and while most of what goes into the tire is in fact nitrogen, there is one other contaminate that many do not filter out that negates the benefits of nitrogen. That contaminate is moisture, or water. As water warms and cools it will expand and contract. I've witnessed moisture contaminated nitrogen be less temperature stable than dry regular air. In my opinion, getting air from a shop that runs a desiccant filter to remove moisture would be preferable to the nitrogen sold by many shops. Just my opinion
Thanks for posting a detailed comment. As to nitrogen, my knowledge is limited to what I read; I have not personally tested nitrogen-inflated tires. Glad to have you as a viewer.
Don't like single axle trailer for long trips away from home. Get double axle. Why would you underinflate the tire on your loaded trailer? Huge mistake. Long trip ? Check for proper inflation, tread wear, hub heat build up and road hazard ie things stuck into your tires . etc. check when you rest stop. Do you also underinflate your tow truck or car tires ? I hope not.
You are correct. I made several mistakes that led to the blowout, all of which have been corrected now. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please subscribe if you haven't already done so.
One thing on tires that I found out the hard way - CHECK THE BUILD DATE of the tires. ST Tires wear from the inside out, making it hard to really tell their condition. Our 2018 Coachman was purchased new in 2019, as a dealer leftover. Being new to the RV, we did not know to check the manufacture date on the tires. I have always checked the tire pressure at least twice on each trip. Well, yes, we still had a blowout, which damaged our trailer. Dealer is working to resolve the damage, but, I contacted my trusted tire center to see if I could understand better what might have caused this. They told me that the code date or build date of the tires on my rig is 2015, or, the 20th week of 2015. That means that when I took delivery of the rig, these tires were already 4 years old. The tire center told me, that the average life of an ST tire is about 5 years, so, really, the blowout was going to happen sooner or later. Please, always check the age of your tires! Especially if you are new to RVing.
That's an interesting idea, but I can't imagine how the alignment would ba adjusted on my little trailer. Thanks for watching and for commenting. Please subscribe if you haven't already done so.
I had a similar situation yesterday. I was going just about 60mph. I notice when I got the spare on and going 50mph for 3 miles, the spare tire is somewhat hot. Any ideas as to what is causing that?
I have to say this video was just the best. I'm currently about to embark on the full time RV journey with my family in 10 more days after living in the TT for the past month. Tires are the item most on my mind at the Moment. I just replaced my tow vehicles tires (Cooper Discoverer HT3) and the TT tires are next. This vid was very well done and the info was easily digestible. I thank you for that. I'd be curious to learn which tires you ultimately chose as your replacements and how they are holding up if you have a moment. I'm really leaning toward the Good Year Endurance ST tires as they are seen as the best by many and are made in the USA. I wanted Good Year UniSteel but they don't make them in a 14" unfortunately. Thanks again for the vid and I look forward to more. You have my sub! I'm a new channel and would love a sub myself if you'd be interested. Either way thank you! I'm also not Chuck so we have a lot in common. :o)
Hello and thanks for posting. I have a newer trailer than the one shown in the video. It has tandem axles and a set of Carlisle ST tires that are rated up to 85mph. Of course, I don't run them over 60, but so far, they are doing well. They were made in 2016 and were new in the Carlisle line at the time and Carlisle was advertising their improved dependability; they were still made in China. They are doing well, but I keep them inflated at maximum rated pressure.
@@ImnotChuck. Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it. I;'m actually going to look into the Carlisles. Hey, if you could an swerve one more question Id appreciate it. That floor jack did you end up getting? I'm finding most of them seems too big and the small one's seem to not be too good. any thoughts here? Thanks again! I'm honored to hear back from you. Love the vids!
I am an actual Tire Design Engineer and a court recognized "expert". Some observations: I note the OE valve is missing. "Snap in" rubber valves (standard or High pressure) are not recommended by US Tire Mfg Association. Only "Bolt-in metal valve stems should be used in RV application." Did I miss your mention of the tire size in the video? You stated your GVWR but not your GAWR. How do you know you are under the weight ratings? RE Inflation. Until you know the actual load, when fully loaded, and have consulted the Load Inflation tables you should run the inflation shown on the Certification Sticker on the side of the RV not what some tire tech thinks is correct. Your OE tires may be Bias not radial. A "D" or "R" before the rim size will clarify that. Your new tires do not have 8 ply but are Load Range D which lines up with 65 psi and an 8 ply "rating". It is the air pressure that supports the load not the tire ply so unless you inflate to the table inflation for that Load Range you do not have that load capacity in the tires. You should check inflation with a calibrated gauge each travel day before you drive on the tires. NEVER lower the pressure of a hot tire. Side issue Lug Nuts. Be sure to check torque to spec before each trip per your owner manual. I cover all these issues and more in my blog RVTireSafety.net Yes I think the primary reason for the failure was intentionally running low inflation and not adjusting each travel day.
As much as we like to blame "China bombs", in your case #2 and then #5 had more to do with your tire failure than anything else..couple that with #3 and you were running a max loaded tire in an under inflated condition. I am also concerned about the excessive inside tire wear...usually under inflation will show outside wear on both sides of the tire (almost equally) but in your case is was way more on one side than the other. That would lead me to suspect: 1. Bad Bearings 2. Bent axle or alignment issue 3. Overloading the trailer causing the axle to bend slightly putting more pressure on the inside of the tire 4. Yes, tire/belt separation. Looking at the wear on the one tire, it is possible that the other tire wore slightly faster and couple that with some of the other conditions you mentioned your tire was a victim of the chaos theory...multiple issues that equaled catastrophic tire failure. I think what you did to correct will help, but I would watch the tire wear to see if that continues.
Also remember trailer tires are speed rated typicaly to 65 mph. Higher the speed......more heat. Lower the tire pressure....more heat, overloading the tire.....more heat. You combine these factors they heat up even quicker and become even hotter till they fail. These tires.are alot heavier that carry heavy loads and work hard. Respect them and they will serve.you well.
There should be a 7th that is made in the USA ! We just got home from a 3500 mile trip out west ( were the temperature was 95 plus a lot of the time) my new Good Year Endurance tires were flawless! I remove my one year old China Booms just prior to our trip. O yes the Good Years are rated for 86 mph!
I have always inflated my tires on my trucks and trailers to what is called for on the side walls, have always used a tire gauge of my own that I carry with me, I don't trust tire gauges on tire machines
Those 50psi trailer tires only retain their max weight rating at max inflation pressure! Tire mfgs. publish tire inflation charts, which tell you how much pressure in a particular trailer tire is req'd to withstand a particular load. I suspect 40psi + near max load + highway speeds was the kiss of death. My super lightweight cargo trailer(for camping) hops violently when unloaded and at max tire pressure. I am running slightly reduced pressure on the hiways, with the apparent permission of the tire pressure/load chart. I will be experimenting on dirt roads in the desert with 20 or 30psi pressure and low speeds (WAY under 30mph) to ameliorate all this hopping of a lightweight setup. Which means I need a compressor!
WARNING!!! If you dont check the code date of the tire manufacturing date will play a very big role in life expectancy . When you purchase tires check the date - As a good rule of thumb any tire over 7 years waiting to be installed that is sold as NEW! is going to be a time bomb Dont accept these because the Rubber by that time of 7 years + is going to be starting to dry out... Dealers need to be told and further more Stock needs to be inspected and rotated more as time passes by. I suggest you watch {Beware when buying new tires} Its on you tube This clip was a news produced by ABC News back in 2009 and Please GET THE Word out !!! As you said of the blow out tire was manufactured of 2016, it might have been read wrong - if it was a 3 digit code then the first two numbers correspond to the week and the last digit corresponds to the year - if the last two digits was 16 then yes that is correct but if the last digit was 6 or 06 then they were manufactured 10 years +. I find it hard to believe that two year old tires will fail. Get your tires checked on both your tow vehicle and trailer for proper code dates or you might have a time bomb on your hands. Good rule of thumb 10 years+ tires need to be changed as the rubber starts to dry and shrink
One of the most important thing in any tire is able to absorb force due to blunt trauma thus, tires have special chemicals & conditioners to keep them soft and flexible. Periodically, they loose these chemicals due to UV exposure and heat. Nothing to loose by investing less than 10$ on meguiar hot shine or 303 protectant.
2905 is the unloaded trailer weight. 10% of the 2905 lbs will be carried by the tow vehicle. That leaves 2615 lbs for the two trailer tires to carry. #1. Made in China- All road tires sold in the US have to meet the same DOT regulations as US built tires #2. Under inflated. YES they were. Under inflation causes excess heat build up in the tire and will destroy them.1760lbs / 50PSI= 35.2 pounds of load per PSI. 35.2PSI x 40= 1408 per tire. Half the unloaded trailer weight is 1308 lbs. Although under the total needed to carry the trailer, I suspect the trailer may have not had an even and balanced load on both the tires. Also water is 8 lbs per gallon. If you carry lost of fresh water, full gray and black tanks, remember to add that to your weight.#3. Tires should be checked cold. Ambient air has moisture in it(humidity). As the temps increase, the pressure rises in the tires. The water vapor molecules expand and take up more room inside the tire (Nitrogen has a much lesser effect on this). #4. YES. Also check the warmth of the trailer hubs after pulling. High hub temps can be an indication of grease/bearing problems. If the trailer has electric brakes, check after long pulls with little brake application. The brakes can heat the hubs in city traffic giving a false bearing hub temp. #5. C rating does cover this trailer, but the D rated tires will far outlast them and is great piece of mind. Although the stiffer sidewalls will give a slightly rougher ride. Make friends with a race car guy. We have portable scales that will tell you exactly how much weight your loaded trailer has on each tire and the trailer tongue. Your fixes are sound. Enjoy your trips.
My confusion is when tire pressure is checked at cold temperatures and inflated to max pressure then when driving checked again after traveling 50 to 75 miles the pressure is 10 to 15 psi over max pressure. My question is, is that safe
I agree; it's disconcerting, but I just do what the sidewall of the tire says. When it says 65 psi cold, that's what I do. Thanks for watching and commenting.
The reason went had the tire at pressure when and after driving awhile is the tire heats up don't change the pressure is ok .i was told this by a tire repair truck while having a tire replaced on my semi truck
The tire manufacturer when made the tire that taken in to a count the rise in PSI. As you use the tire I follow the tire pressures sticker on the door jam.
Go to a LT tire with the correct load range. TRUTH is trailer tires are the cheapest tires made. RV and trailer dealers push them because it a high margin item. Many high end travel trailers come with LT tires from the factory.
Without rewatching the video, I don't remember exactly remember reasons 2-5, but in general, I made a lot of mistakes. I have a different trailer now; it's a tandem axle with much better tires, and I keep them inflated to the max rating. No problems! Thanks for watching.
I am by no means, a "tire expert". But I do have 15 years of experience professionally hauling specialty cargo in my 24-foot trailer. I am fastidious with tire monitoring, care, and maintenance (because my clients required un-damaged, on time deliveries). I crisscrossed the USA from end to end and I have blown tires from every manufacturer. I would paint pen the start mileage and date on each new tire to track its history. I would try to buy Goodyear 10 ply, load range E tires each time. But that luxury is not always offered when you experience tire failures on some remote places on the interstate highways. I always sought the nearest tire shop to replace the blown tire with a new spare (BTW, I always carried three spares). If you blow one tire and can't pull over quickly, you may blow its sister tire in front of, or behind it. Sometimes you can't get what you need and you take what you can get. That can result in a mixed brand of tires, load ratings, speed ratings, number of plies, and mfg dates on your trailer. Try managing that. Years ago, I contacted Carlisle tires to ask them about trailer tires and expected life span. They told me that there is a finite duty cycle to ST tires (heating and cooling) and an average mileage lifespan of 7500 miles. The tread may look fine, the sidewalls smooth, but they said that at 7500 miles, install new tires. That is easier said than done when they blow out randomly. Here is the gorilla in the room. My truck tires go through as many cycles (way more) as the trailer tires, and I have never had a premature blowout (Chevy Duramax at 9200lbs + tongue weight, Michelin LTX-A/T). Yet they say to never use LT tires on a trailer?!. Second question. How is it that my ST tires are rated for 2540-2830lbs, but the trailer wheels are rated for 2000lbs? Let's all chew on that for a while. BTW, after retiring, I was left with 4 Chinese tires on my trailer. Two "Loadstars", one "Hi-Run", and one "Towmaster". My Goodyears and Carlisles were long gone, due to the issues I explained earlier.
@@ImnotChuck. Good question. My current plan is to buy 5 new cast wheels and 5 Goodyear Endurance ST tires for my retired cargo trailer. It will never see the kind of work it did before, so I should get good service from that setup. FYI, I have had wheel failures from those steel, Chinese "wagon wheel style" wheels. They torque and flex and have broken their welds between the "spokes" and the "rim". They may be fine for light duty trailers, but not for professional use.
The tires do not support your trailer. The AIR inside does. Air we breathe is 79% nitrogen. Under inflammation increases the amount of the tire rubbing the road. This increases the temperature. You are one of the few that mentions balancing. This reduces friction too.
I agree that the confined, pressurized air bears the weight of the trailer, but the tires must keep the air contained. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I like Cooper tires, but the Carlisle tires I have now are performing well. They are rated for 85 mph; of couse, I don't run them anywhere near that fast. Thanks for posting.
Hi, We are in a similar situation with a new 3000 lbs travel trailer pulled by a half ton truck that can pull 6400 lbs. Was just wondering how did the trailer handle as a single axle suffering a blow out. Did it sway a lot and was it hard to control your truck when it happened. Any problems stopping the vehicle other than you being in a bad position on the freeway? Does you rig have a weight distribution hitch? Some people say it may help in a blow out situation. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks
Hi Phil. Good question. I generally don't run over 60 mph, and that is probably the speed I was going; I was in the slow lane and there was a vehicle passing me. I remember hearing a loud bang, and for a split second, I though they had bumped the trailer. It was the driver's side trailer tire that blew and I started braking. Of course, the driver's side trailer tire had no braking, but the passenger side did, so the trailer wanted to pull to the right which had a tendency to push the nose of the truck to the left. The amount of push increased if I braked harder and decreased if I braked less, but there wasn't any violent swaying. I pulled over on the paved shoulder, and I remember that I thought the trailer might get into the guard rail. Fortunately, I got stopped quickly without any further incident. Thanks for watching. ETA; I did have a friction anti-sway bar, but did not have a weight distribution hitch. My current trailer is a dual axle, and I would not want another single axle trailer.
@@ImnotChuck. Thanks for the quick reply. I'm sticking with my single axle trailer due to the ultralight weight so my gas mileage won't be too bad. I will eventually get Goodyear Endurance tires that by the way are easily available at your local tire shop or you can use that great online tire company called tire rack and they can ship them to your local tire store for installation. I will also get a weight distribution hitch even though it seems to ride fine without it because I heard in case of blow out the WDH will also help with swaying.
You are correct; heat is a big factor in tire wear. The tires on my new to me trailer are a step up, and are rated up to 81 mph. Of course, I have no intention of running that fast. Please subscribe if you haven't already done so.
I think the 40 psi was fine I run 35 in my 8 thousand pound fifth wheel but my tires are radial tires not non radial and not had a blow out yet. But let me add I did once own a 6 thousand pound pull behind that had those non radial tires aka China bombs and had a blow out but I was running 50 pounds in them I think that was a mistake on that trailer. And let me add I had the spare blow out that was mounted on the back just sitting in the yard on a hot summer day what a noise it made . My conclusion run only radial tires and only if you have to run them non radial China bombs on utility trailers.
You asked for suggested brands of tires NOT made in China You might include: Michelin LTX and Maxxis ST, probably favoring Maxxis ST tires as tire of choice for quality and safety. I'm now told that Goodyear Marathon tires are made in China, but don't know for sure and they certainly have very mixed reviews, not certain of Goodyear Endurance tires as suggested by, Everything RV by Pat, are made in China or not- certainly worth looking into either way!
Thanks for the input. I am most interested in 14" tires that are specifically for trailers (i.e., marked as ST.) I will certainly look into your suggestions. I appreciate you watching and hope that you subscribed.
You're welcome, I did check and the Goodyear Endurance is made in America after all, tires-easy.com say that size ST205/75R14 D/8PR, Max load 2040, Max PSI 65 , 8 ply, are $107.99 with free shipping. (Best price that I found) The search is over for me, I was going to buy the Maxxis ST, but in checking with them they don't offer the 8 ply anymore, just 6 ply, so I think I'll buy the Goodyear Endurance. Sure glad Everything RV by Pat mentioned these tires.
I have heard great things about Goodyear Endurance tires. Here's a link for them. www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Endurance&partnum=075NR4END&tab=Survey?affiliate=FH8 I had 4 out of 5 of my original tires go bad on my last travel trailer. One tore out the fender. Guess what was mounted right above the plastic fender... That's right!!! The wiring harness. I had to rewire the whole thing.. Needless to say, I switched to these and didn't have another problem. I just bought a new 5th wheel trailer back in September and I'm going to swap out the factory China bombs for these in a 15" version of the same brand of tire. One more factor you might consider is the fact that Interstate 40 is terrible. Not sure where you live but I hate traveling on I-40 between Williams and Flagstaff. It is, to me, one of the worst patches of interstate I have ever traveled upon. I would never leave home with the trailer again without a floor jack. I have two of them, one in the truck and one in the trailer. You never know. Besides having one could help you to get level in an awkward situation. The tire iron is also a necessity. Great video. Best of luck, Pat
Nitrogen filling is a scam, by tire dealers who bought the expensive air compressor. There is a place for nitrogen filling- aircraft tires that are at 300 PSI, hydraulic accumulators etc. Low pressure tires ( less than 100# ) see no measurable difference in pressure loss or temperature sensitivity. Lots of You-tube on that. Just ignore the ones from the compressor manufacturesrs or the tire shops trying to sell 5$ compressed air. My tires have 80% nitrogen in them. When a brake assembly on an aircraft makes the tire catch fire, 300# of 20% oxidizer stored in the burning tire is a bad idea.
That's an interesting comment that I have never heard before. My local tire dealer/service provider doesn't charge me anything extra for nitrogen fills. Thanks for watching; I hope you subscribed.
You touched on the speed rating but did not specify what your speed was during the trip. We’re you staying below the speed rating of 65mph during your trip? Exceeding that speed rating can also greatly contribute to blow outs regardless of how many plys your tire has.
Tony Mulheron I believe most blowouts are certainly contributed to excessive speed. I just got home from a 6hr trip to northern Mi pulling a 30’ TT and never exceeded 65mph. It really amazes me how many RV’s past me like I was standing still. The only trouble I’ve had with my trailer tires is when I picked up a nail to close to the sidewall to be patched. It was a real bummer to scrap a nearly new tire.
Were they Radial tires? I drove my single axle trailer 5 miles on highway with Bias ply D15 tires and they were hot to touch. Maybe your tire got hot and blew out from being Bias ply and under inflated!
The tires were radials, but still didn't hold up. I have been on a short trip with the new load range D tires, and they did well, but I will take my first longer trip next week. Thanks for watching and posting; please subscribe if you haven't already.
I am leery of using anything but ST tires on my travel trailer. ST tires have stiffer sidewalls and are better able to resist flexing as the trailer wig wags. Thanks for your input.
I inflate to the maximum on the tire. I believe that running trailer tires below that contributes to sidewall flex and tire blowouts. BUT that's just my opinion; you make your decision. Thanks for watching and commenting
Hi and thanks for watching. I sold this trailer about a year ago, and bought a 2013 Nash 23F, so I can't answer your question directly. I can say however that the inflation pressure on the tire is more important than what is shown on the trailer.
@@ImnotChuck. my understanding is that the tire is manufactured to support a wide variety of trailers up to a maximum weight limit. The heavier the trailer the more tire pressure is needed. Too much tire pressure for a specific weight trailer, while still within max tire pressure limits, will cause uneven tire wear and therefore shorten the tires lifespan.
@@richardthomas6602 That's not the way I understand it. My view is that trailer tires should be chosen such that the maximum weight of the loaded trailer is less than the load rating on the tire, and the tires should always be inflated to the maximum pressure defined on the sidewall.
Thanks for watching and for your comment. The axle is straight; the main problems were under inflation and cheap tires. Please subscribe if you haven't already done so.
your tire wear looks very similar to ua-cam.com/video/lVg8QgIFJoU/v-deo.html his conclusion was that the weight limit of the AXLE had been exceeded, causing it to bow, causing the tires to be tilted inwards instead of being flat on the ground
That is a possibility; the wear pattern certainly matches. I have not yet checked to see the rating on my axle, but plan to do so the next time I am at the storage site. Then, I might decide to change out the axle. Thanks for watching and for your suggestion.
Check out this link it will be very useful to people that want the facts about tires. www.ustires.org/publications_bulletins?publication_categories=7 CARE AND SERVICE OF PASSENGER AND LIGHT TRUCK TIRES. The ply rating and load range are interchangeable. A “C” load range is a 6 ply rating tire. And a load range “D” is an 8 ply tire. This is an an indication of load carrying capacity. It is not an indication of the plies of material in the tire. See the attached link for more details. I agree with you inflation pressure and possible speed being your most likely cause. Increasing the load capacity of your tire is a good move. One thing to be cautious of is the max inflation the wheel. Nice job on the video.
Yes, China bombs will and continue to exist as long as American companies keep telling Chinese manufacturers to build cheap tires to keep the price low for American consumers. If an American company tells the Chinese manufacturers to build a "China bomb" with exotic materials and at the highest quality - THEY CAN DO IT - would you or the American consumers be willing to pay $500, $600 per tire?
That is a rhetorical question, so no factual answer is possible. It is my belief that safe RV tires can be made for much less than $500 or $600 in China since they are being made here in the USA for much less than that. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
Sitting here in bed sipping on a cup of coffee this Fourth of July. Came across this video and since tires are a constant issue in the rv travel trailer forums I belong to decided to watch. Though not as flashy as some videos I have seen, I liked yours the best. The information you provided was clean, to the point and reflective of the points needed to pay attention to. I felt like I was listening to my good advice neighbor that was passing on some great learned lessons. Thank you for a great educational lesson. Saving this video and subscribing to see if you have more. Thank you and safe travels.
Be careful with the coffee. Thanks for the positive comment, and for subscribing. My channel is a mashup of things that interest me, and I think might be useful to others.
Nicely done....I have made all of your recommendations over the years but have added a speed rating of L for the 75 mph benefit. Not say I would run at that speed but to add the additional layer of redundancy. They goal is always arrive unharmed in great operational condition.
Whenever I see RVs on the side of the road, I always wonder if they are prepared. Thanks for your comment.
As battery powered tools have come down in price I've gotten away from carrying the standard 'lug wrench' Its 'faster' for tire changes and requires less effort. I also carry a wooden block for as a jack for my dual wheel car trailer as well as a 2.5 ton lightweight aluminum jack. I also never go anywhere without my torque wrench. Every morning before taking off I check both air pressure and wheel torque for changes between days. The Pittsburgh torque wrench from Harbor freight, while not the best, has maintained spec and only cost me $20. Great info. Thanks.
Excellent suggestions! I followed most of them on my road trips. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
I like how you took it on the chin like a man and owned up to your mistakes .. bravo
Thanks for watching. I hope my experience can help others to avoid repeating my mistakes.
My two cents for this issue is, 1 for trailers always use ST tires, 2 always maintain the pressure at the maximum, 3 stay well under the recommended speed rating for that tire, 2 & 3 is more important then where they are made , 4 inspect the tires on regularly for damage, aging issues, uneven wear etc, 5 don't go cheap when buying always upgrade to higher rated tires. 6 practise changing your tires where it is safe by then you will have worked out any issue's tool's & jacks etc. Issues will come up be as ready as you can be.
Thanks for your input. Your first point is the only one I am not in full agreement with; even the "tire experts" dance around this question. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
I thought you did a Fantastic job on this video. You were clear and concise. Easy to listen to. Thank you
I am glad you liked it. Thanks for your view and the comment.
I just bought a Lance trailer equipped with same tires from the factory. The original owner was puzzled when the original, Power King tires both blew out...causing similar and worse damage to the bottom of the trailer. She said they both had plenty of tread and looked fine, when they blew. The ragged leftover it came with confirms the claims of tread depth and rubber condition being fine when they blew. I got the trailer with one, Power king left on it, (the spare) and one Goodyear Endurance (american made supposedly). These are still only load range C, which I feel like is the main issue. Even aired up to the maximum of 50 psi, the sidewalls still flex too much, causing excessive heat and low contact pressure in the center of the tread. Simplest solution I know: replace with load range D, Goodyears, ( made in america or not, I've had good luck with goodyears even if they are a little spendy) Happy travels ;)
Thanks for the informative comment. I don't see many Lance trailers in my area, but I have heard good things about them. What a shame that manufacturers are using such crap! Carlisle has a new line of tires that they are promoting heavily; I hope they are safe. Please subscribe if you haven't already done so.
Thanks for sharing this informative information. Sorry, that you experienced this costly and dangerous event. We have been either very lucky or received great advice when the local tire center suggested a switch to TOWMAX ST tires with a load range of E, balanced and pressurized to the maximum. We also employ a set of Tire Minders. We have actually trashed those new RV equipped tires and replaced them with balanced TOWMAX tires. Yes, the Tire Minder work and have informed us of pressure loss due to road debris. 30K and still ok.
That is good information for anyone pulling a trailer. Thanks for posting and for watching.
Thanks for the reminder to keep an eye on your tires, INC! I'm learning A LOT from you! Thanks for sharing your wisdom!
I just got home from an 1100 mile trip pulling the trailer, and am anxious to measure the tread wear on the tires. Thanks for the compliment.
Goodyear Endurance is the only trailer tire made in the US.
I have heard of the Goodyear Endurance tires, but I need to see them and get some more information. Thanks for commenting and watching.
Jeanie Witmer I just started using the goodyear endurance. What a great tire. Good Luck traveling and thanks for the share!
I just started using the goodyear endurance. What a great tire. Good Luck traveling and thanks for the share!
I just bought 4 the endurance today. He brought me one out next to a basic China bomb and wow. You can tell the difference. Very good tire.
Another accessory that I carry is a breaker bar and socket that fits my lugs. You can get some good leverage.
That's another potentially useful tool. Thanks for watching and for commenting. Please subscribe if you haven't already.
Thomas Smith also I carry torque wrench as well
I know I'm a few years late to the party, but Goodyear Endurance radials are the best trailer tires you can get in the D/E load range.
I think I will buy those next time I need tires for my travel trailer. Right now, I am using Carlisle tires that are rated for 85mph at 60 psi. Of course, I don't run more than 65 and usually closer to 55 max, but the tires are holding up well. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
Great video. Lots of good information, but I noticed one significant mistake.You say your tires were near their maximum load. This is incorrect. If you notice, the tires say maximum load 1760 at 50 psi. The load capacity of the tire is directly related to its inflation. Since your tires were under-inflated, their weight capacity decreased. With 20% under-inflation, their load capacity diminished by an amount larger than the under inflation. The load capacity of those tires was probably 30% lower than the 1760. In actuality, you were exceeding the load of those tires.
Your real problem is an incompetent tire shop. If their technician said those tires should be inflated to 40 pounds, he is dangerous. Trailer tires should always be put at maximum cold capacity unless there is some special circumstance.
The best thing you could do to avoid future blowouts, is to find tire technicians that know what the heck they're talking about!
I agree with your post. I have learned more about tires in the last year.
Referring to white steel trailer wheel balancing. While getting my new trailer wheels spun balanced, I noticed the rims didn’t spin true. The hub hole was not in the exact center. A lot of weights were added, which caused great concern. Research online showed two types of spin balance - hub and lug. Hub uses a cone inserted into the hub hole. Lug requires an added ‘plate’ which the rim is bolted to mimicking the brake drum. Many of the weights were removed and some relocated.
Wow. Yet another potential problem to look out for. Thanks for watching and contributing. Please subscribe if you haven't already.
Great job I have always used nitrogen for mr tires keeps them running cooler in hot climates and molecules are larger so less likely to bleed out in cold climates.
Thanks for watching, commenting, and subscribing. I have had the last RV blowout I ever want.
I just love your videos sweetie! So easy to follow and I love that you have the text written in your videos so someone like myself we have the ability to take notes! This comes from a one brain celled senior female!💜
Thanks DJ. I think you are a lot smarter than the average cookie.
I agree with everything you cited as a reason. The only thing I would (and have) remedied beyond what you did would be to add a Tire Pressure Monitoring System. These systems are coming down in price and are very reliable for constant monitoring of pressure and temperature.
I need to get a TPMS for my rig. Thanks for suggesting it.
@@ImnotChuck. I bought mine at a grand design rally. The guys set it all up for me. Couldn't have been easier. A few days later while reading some posts from other grand design owners who had attended that rally there was a post from a guy who bought the same system I have. He had an alarm go off on a camper wheel and pulled over to find a huge chunk of metal sticking through the tire. One of the millions of pieces of road debris we drive over every single day. Other than that alarm he had no idea there was any kind of problem. He was able to safely pull over and even drive on to a safe piece of road where he could change the tire. No camper damage, no truck damage, and nobody got hurt. It turned a potentially serious problem into a nothing event. I use it every time I take the camper out and I bought another set of sensors for my motorcycle trailer. I just set up a "Vehicle C" the truck and camper are Veh A, the truck alone is vehicle B and the truck and bike trailer are Veh C. A simple vehicle switch and I'm ready to roll.
@@fordfan3179 Thanks for the post. I will definitely look into getting a set...sounds like it could be a real cost savings compared to a blowout.
Buying an Aliner? Positives/Negatives
I've had two. In both the bubble window became cloudy and ruined the view. You can't stop the suns ultraviolet rays from changing the molecular structure. Many offer products that claim to clear it up; none work. Damage is on the inside of the pecan. $1,500 to replace each window.
There are now many lightweight, small trailers on the market that you can stand up in the entire trailer not just the middle and then have to hunch over.
While other travelers are pulling into rest areas or plazas and going right into their trailers for lunch or the bathroom, Aliners are opening up their trailers in the rain, snow skeet and hail, standing dangerously on a step where if they fall over backwards...or you can stand on the ground and strain your back.
The 4 springs at each corner go bad in time as ALL springs do. Spending $20,000 and way up you want something to last. They tried lift tortion bars like on you lift gate. Then you fight them getting the top down. Dormers add to the weight.
Much condensation on the inside of the bubble windows you can't stop unless you freeze in winter camping. By adding dormers, you still can't stand up at each end like normal people need. No such thing as jumping in the shower or commode. Compare to any other yourself.
Low wind drag? Many other trailers in all sizes have curved or angled fronts now that cut the wind and you can stand up and access your camper fast. Most Aliner airconditioners stick out 8" so going through narrow tunnels or roads rural roads you must watch for mail boxes if incoming traffic or trucks must crowd you.
Positives? Aliners are unique and for people who get fooled into thinking if they spend more they'll get more, then don't realize it till its too late.
I sold both mine at a loss and glad I did.
A bit off topic, but interesting just the same. I hope you watched my video; thanks for posting.
Use an after-market TMPS that screws sensors onto the valve stems. It works (recently saved me from a blowout on US101). The TPMS gives temperature and pressure readings - they are very interesting to see each morning. Nitrogen filled tires is just plain silly for ordinary folks' tires.
I would like to add those to my travel trailer tires. In the meantime, I check them very often. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
Excellent and is one of the best videos I've watched
Hi Robert. Thanks for watching and for the compliment. It means a lot.
I am impressed you now have been rv baptized upgraded tires and balance is a must
It was a nightmare when it happened, but hasn't been repeated. I am now using the new Carlisle tires that are rated for 85 mph, but I still pull at 55 to 60. Thanks for posting.
I am astonished that a mechanic recommended under-inflating the tires. I have issues with most of them over inflating my auto tires - despite their work orders - from their own computer, directing them to use EOM pressures.
I have an air tank that I use to top up my tires as needed. The shop I use is not as sophisticated as some. Thanks.
Wear on one side of a tire is an alignment problem. On an underinflated tire it will wear out both edges since you can't have a different air pressure inside the tire from one side of the tire to the other side.
I have since sold that trailer, but I wonder about the axle alignment on my current rig. Maybe I can figure out a way to check it myself.
Thanks for the advice. I think I'll be buying some "cheap insurance" and checking my tires more frequently.
William, thanks for commenting. That's the best idea of all; keep watch on the tires.
Great video... thank you.
Not Chuck, why not go up to load range E tires? That's a load of about 2800 lbs for each tire which is well above your trailer weight. Remember the hotter the tire gets the less weight it can handle. Wear and tear also reduces load capacity. This is only going to cost a maximum of about $150 extra in total for both tires.
Another important factor is to make sure the rims can handle the tire and the recommended psi. Buy rims that handle psi loads beyond the capacity that your tires will be inflated to. Another good safety tip.
Another thing you didn't touch on is to cover the tires when the trailer is parked to prevent UV damage and shorten the life of the tires.
When buying tires check the date the tires were made. Never buy new tires more than about 6 or 8 months old. Inspect each tire for the date. Tires age out after about 5 years.
Like you I'm not a tire expert however when I bought new tires for my class A I had this explained to me by a friend who is a tire expert. He explained it to me and gave me some reading material.
I have since bought a newer dual axle trailer with better tires and rims. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I;ve had two tires go bad on my 25 foot Dutchman. THey didnt blow out, thank goodness. What I observed was the tire would be oval in tread area. I noticed the tire was very hot with the other tire being normal temp. Both tires were 6 years old and in the rear. Did go over 70mph a few times. Could have been that. I always thought maybe I hit a pot hole and broke the tread belt. Also was running tire pressure at about 40lbs. That might have been it.
Getting ready for another trip. Pumped tire pressure up to 48lbs, and getting that lead foot off the gas pedal.
I wish you the best of luck on your trip. I just finished a trip of about 1,200 miles on my new tires, which now have close to 2,000 miles on them. I took the trailer to the tire shop, and had them looked at. The pressure was down only a couple of pounds and the wear seemed light and even. My confidence is rising...slowly. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Interesting video, I agree with somethings stated in the video, but not all.
1) - Made in China. I don't think that Quality Control has much to do with where it was produced, but by whom, or what company. Just because something is made in the US doesn't guarantee that it will be of high quality, nor does something made in China indicate that it is of poor quality. There is a tire manufacturer (I think they only make LT truck tires, no trailer tires) in Houston, TX. Now I've never bought any tires from that manufacturer, but there are numerous UA-cam videos of customers who had suffered disastrous results from the use of tires from that manufacturer. One literally bought the tires, filled the tank, and the tires were done before his fuel tank required refueling. Personally I would focus more on which company made the tire (and its reputation) than where it was produced.
2) - Underinflation. Having tires underinflated it a quick way to have a blow out, I agree. If you look at a tire that's on the ground, loaded with weight, the tire is relatively round EXCEPT for where the point at which the tire contacts the ground, that's flat-ish. When the tire rotates, that point will spring back to round, until that point contacts the ground again, then it will flaten, then spring back to round, then flatten, then spring back.... I think you get the picture. Assuming that the tire is a 205/75R14 ( I think that's what I saw in the picture ), then the tire will have a diameter of about 26.1 inches. That means that the tire will rotate 773 times per mile. At 65 MPH, that means that any single point on the tire will flatten and spring back to round 50,245 times per hour. As long as the tire is fully inflated, there will be very little flattening and spring back, the tire can handle it. But if the tire is underinflated, that flattening and spring back will be torture. Imagine taking a paper clip and bending it back and forth. If you bend it back and forth just slightly, you can keep it up pretty much forever. But if you bend the paper clip back and forth at sharp angles, you'll only be able to bend it a few times before the paper clip breaks. That's what happens to the tires.
3) - Checking when tire are warm does skew the pressure readings. It's better to check when cold, but if warm, just add a few PSI to compensate ( rule of thumb is about 4 PSI ).
4) - Nitrogen. Another disagreement. About 70% of the air we breathe is nitrogen, along with the air in your tires if you use regular air. Pure nitrogen filled tires are more stable than regular air tires, and do provide a benefit in extreme conditions (airplane tires that handle 38 ton loads and go from the temperature on the ground to about -40 degrees ). Notice that I said pure. I've seen a lot of tire shops what sell nitrogen, and while most of what goes into the tire is in fact nitrogen, there is one other contaminate that many do not filter out that negates the benefits of nitrogen. That contaminate is moisture, or water. As water warms and cools it will expand and contract. I've witnessed moisture contaminated nitrogen be less temperature stable than dry regular air. In my opinion, getting air from a shop that runs a desiccant filter to remove moisture would be preferable to the nitrogen sold by many shops.
Just my opinion
Thanks for posting a detailed comment. As to nitrogen, my knowledge is limited to what I read; I have not personally tested nitrogen-inflated tires. Glad to have you as a viewer.
Don't like single axle trailer for long trips away from home. Get double axle.
Why would you underinflate the tire on your loaded trailer? Huge mistake.
Long trip ?
Check for proper inflation, tread wear, hub heat build up and road hazard ie things stuck into your tires . etc.
check when you rest stop.
Do you also underinflate your tow truck or car tires ? I hope not.
You are correct. I made several mistakes that led to the blowout, all of which have been corrected now. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please subscribe if you haven't already done so.
One thing on tires that I found out the hard way - CHECK THE BUILD DATE of the tires. ST Tires wear from the inside out, making it hard to really tell their condition. Our 2018 Coachman was purchased new in 2019, as a dealer leftover. Being new to the RV, we did not know to check the manufacture date on the tires. I have always checked the tire pressure at least twice on each trip. Well, yes, we still had a blowout, which damaged our trailer. Dealer is working to resolve the damage, but, I contacted my trusted tire center to see if I could understand better what might have caused this. They told me that the code date or build date of the tires on my rig is 2015, or, the 20th week of 2015. That means that when I took delivery of the rig, these tires were already 4 years old. The tire center told me, that the average life of an ST tire is about 5 years, so, really, the blowout was going to happen sooner or later. Please, always check the age of your tires! Especially if you are new to RVing.
That is excellent advice. Thanks for sharing your experience.
@@ImnotChuck. And, thank you for your video. Happy Camping!
6. Alignment needed to be checked.
That's an interesting idea, but I can't imagine how the alignment would ba adjusted on my little trailer. Thanks for watching and for commenting. Please subscribe if you haven't already done so.
ua-cam.com/video/pRyTeqYuGBk/v-deo.html
I had a similar situation yesterday. I was going just about 60mph. I notice when I got the spare on and going 50mph for 3 miles, the spare tire is somewhat hot. Any ideas as to what is causing that?
I have to say this video was just the best. I'm currently about to embark on the full time RV journey with my family in 10 more days after living in the
TT for the past month. Tires are the item most on my mind at the Moment. I just replaced my tow vehicles tires (Cooper Discoverer HT3) and the TT tires are next. This vid was very well done and the info was easily digestible. I thank you for that. I'd be curious to learn which tires you ultimately chose as your replacements and how they are holding up if you have a moment. I'm really leaning toward the Good Year Endurance ST tires as they are seen as the best by many and are made in the USA. I wanted Good Year UniSteel but they don't make them in a 14" unfortunately.
Thanks again for the vid and I look forward to more. You have my sub!
I'm a new channel and would love a sub myself if you'd be interested. Either way thank you! I'm also not Chuck so we have a lot in common. :o)
Hello and thanks for posting. I have a newer trailer than the one shown in the video. It has tandem axles and a set of Carlisle ST tires that are rated up to 85mph. Of course, I don't run them over 60, but so far, they are doing well. They were made in 2016 and were new in the Carlisle line at the time and Carlisle was advertising their improved dependability; they were still made in China. They are doing well, but I keep them inflated at maximum rated pressure.
@@ImnotChuck. Thanks for the reply. I appreciate it. I;'m actually going to look into the Carlisles.
Hey, if you could an swerve one more question Id appreciate it. That floor jack did you end up getting? I'm finding most of them seems too big and the small one's seem to not be too good. any thoughts here?
Thanks again! I'm honored to hear back from you. Love the vids!
I am an actual Tire Design Engineer and a court recognized "expert". Some observations: I note the OE valve is missing. "Snap in" rubber valves (standard or High pressure) are not recommended by US Tire Mfg Association. Only "Bolt-in metal valve stems should be used in RV application." Did I miss your mention of the tire size in the video? You stated your GVWR but not your GAWR. How do you know you are under the weight ratings? RE Inflation. Until you know the actual load, when fully loaded, and have consulted the Load Inflation tables you should run the inflation shown on the Certification Sticker on the side of the RV not what some tire tech thinks is correct. Your OE tires may be Bias not radial. A "D" or "R" before the rim size will clarify that. Your new tires do not have 8 ply but are Load Range D which lines up with 65 psi and an 8 ply "rating". It is the air pressure that supports the load not the tire ply so unless you inflate to the table inflation for that Load Range you do not have that load capacity in the tires. You should check inflation with a calibrated gauge each travel day before you drive on the tires. NEVER lower the pressure of a hot tire. Side issue Lug Nuts. Be sure to check torque to spec before each trip per your owner manual. I cover all these issues and more in my blog RVTireSafety.net Yes I think the primary reason for the failure was intentionally running low inflation and not adjusting each travel day.
I appreciate the input from a real expert. I have taken note of every point you made. Thanks for helping.
Goodyear endurance is one of the best rate trailer tires out there.
The next time I need tires for my travel trailer, I will certainly consider them. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hello Chuck, thanks for the video.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching and commenting.
As much as we like to blame "China bombs", in your case #2 and then #5 had more to do with your tire failure than anything else..couple that with #3 and you were running a max loaded tire in an under inflated condition. I am also concerned about the excessive inside tire wear...usually under inflation will show outside wear on both sides of the tire (almost equally) but in your case is was way more on one side than the other. That would lead me to suspect:
1. Bad Bearings
2. Bent axle or alignment issue
3. Overloading the trailer causing the axle to bend slightly putting more pressure on the inside of the tire
4. Yes, tire/belt separation.
Looking at the wear on the one tire, it is possible that the other tire wore slightly faster and couple that with some of the other conditions you mentioned your tire was a victim of the chaos theory...multiple issues that equaled catastrophic tire failure. I think what you did to correct will help, but I would watch the tire wear to see if that continues.
Thanks for watching and for commenting.
Also remember trailer tires are speed rated typicaly to 65 mph. Higher the speed......more heat. Lower the tire pressure....more heat, overloading the tire.....more heat. You combine these factors they heat up even quicker and become even hotter till they fail. These tires.are alot heavier that carry heavy loads and work hard. Respect them and they will serve.you well.
Good advice. My new trailer has tires rated to 85 mph, but I try to stay at or below 65 mph. Thanks for watching commenting.
There should be a 7th that is made in the USA ! We just got home from a 3500 mile trip out west ( were the temperature was 95 plus a lot of the time) my new Good Year Endurance tires were flawless! I remove my one year old China Booms just prior to our trip. O yes the Good Years are rated for 86 mph!
I do try to buy Made in the USA products. And I am hearing lots of good reports on the GoodYear Endurance tires. Thanks for posting.
You should also get your axel aligned
I think you are right about axle alignment being important. Thanks for commenting; please subscribe if you haven't already done so.
I have always inflated my tires on my trucks and trailers to what is called for on the side walls, have always used a tire gauge of my own that I carry with me, I don't trust tire gauges on tire machines
Roy, I think you are correct on both counts. Thanks for watching and commenting. Please subscribe if you haven't already done so.
Check the weight rating on the wheels also. They do vary.
That is true. Thanks for your input.
First thing I did to my travel trailer before I pulled it off the dealer lot was change the tires to 14 ply.
Thanks for your input.
Those 50psi trailer tires only retain their max weight rating at max inflation pressure! Tire mfgs. publish tire inflation charts, which tell you how much pressure in a particular trailer tire is req'd to withstand a particular load. I suspect 40psi + near max load + highway speeds was the kiss of death.
My super lightweight cargo trailer(for camping) hops violently when unloaded and at max tire pressure. I am running slightly reduced pressure on the hiways, with the apparent permission of the tire pressure/load chart. I will be experimenting on dirt roads in the desert with 20 or 30psi pressure and low speeds (WAY under 30mph) to ameliorate all this hopping of a lightweight setup.
Which means I need a compressor!
You are probably right. Thanks for your insight.
WARNING!!! If you dont check the code date of the tire manufacturing date will play a very big role in life expectancy . When you purchase tires check the date - As a good rule of thumb any tire over 7 years waiting to be installed that is sold as NEW! is going to be a time bomb Dont accept these because the Rubber by that time of 7 years + is going to be starting to dry out... Dealers need to be told and further more Stock needs to be inspected and rotated more as time passes by. I suggest you watch {Beware when buying new tires} Its on you tube This clip was a news produced by ABC News back in 2009 and Please GET THE Word out !!! As you said of the blow out tire was manufactured of 2016, it might have been read wrong - if it was a 3 digit code then the first two numbers correspond to the week and the last digit corresponds to the year - if the last two digits was 16 then yes that is correct but if the last digit was 6 or 06 then they were manufactured 10 years +. I find it hard to believe that two year old tires will fail. Get your tires checked on both your tow vehicle and trailer for proper code dates or you might have a time bomb on your hands. Good rule of thumb 10 years+ tires need to be changed as the rubber starts to dry and shrink
Wow. Lots of information there. Thanks for adding it.
One of the most important thing in any tire is able to absorb force due to blunt trauma thus, tires have special chemicals & conditioners to keep them soft and flexible. Periodically, they loose these chemicals due to UV exposure and heat.
Nothing to loose by investing less than 10$ on meguiar hot shine or 303 protectant.
Thank you for the suggestion and for watching. Please subscribe if you haven't already done so.
2905 is the unloaded trailer weight. 10% of the 2905 lbs will be carried by the tow vehicle. That leaves 2615 lbs for the two trailer tires to carry. #1. Made in China- All road tires sold in the US have to meet the same DOT regulations as US built tires #2. Under inflated. YES they were. Under inflation causes excess heat build up in the tire and will destroy them.1760lbs / 50PSI= 35.2 pounds of load per PSI. 35.2PSI x 40= 1408 per tire. Half the unloaded trailer weight is 1308 lbs. Although under the total needed to carry the trailer, I suspect the trailer may have not had an even and balanced load on both the tires. Also water is 8 lbs per gallon. If you carry lost of fresh water, full gray and black tanks, remember to add that to your weight.#3. Tires should be checked cold. Ambient air has moisture in it(humidity). As the temps increase, the pressure rises in the tires. The water vapor molecules expand and take up more room inside the tire (Nitrogen has a much lesser effect on this). #4. YES. Also check the warmth of the trailer hubs after pulling. High hub temps can be an indication of grease/bearing problems. If the trailer has electric brakes, check after long pulls with little brake application. The brakes can heat the hubs in city traffic giving a false bearing hub temp. #5. C rating does cover this trailer, but the D rated tires will far outlast them and is great piece of mind. Although the stiffer sidewalls will give a slightly rougher ride. Make friends with a race car guy. We have portable scales that will tell you exactly how much weight your loaded trailer has on each tire and the trailer tongue. Your fixes are sound. Enjoy your trips.
Thanks for the comments and for watching the video. I will try to get access to some portable scales and check the side to side loading.
Thanks for the Tips. I have seen you on Lola’s channel and while I know a few chucks apparently you’re not them. 😂😂
You are correct. Thanks for posting and for watching. Please come back again.
I installed a TPMS on my Rig
That is a good addition. Monitoring tire pressure can help to avoid a costly, sometimes dangerous deflation. Thanks for posting.
Thank you for sharing your thoughts.👍 Enjoyed your information. ☺️
🍃🇺🇸🕊️🌎🕊️🍃
Thanks for watching and for the compliment.
My confusion is when tire pressure is checked at cold temperatures and inflated to max pressure then when driving checked again after traveling 50 to 75 miles the pressure is 10 to 15 psi over max pressure. My question is, is that safe
I agree; it's disconcerting, but I just do what the sidewall of the tire says. When it says 65 psi cold, that's what I do. Thanks for watching and commenting.
The reason went had the tire at pressure when and after driving awhile is the tire heats up don't change the pressure is ok .i was told this by a tire repair truck while having a tire replaced on my semi truck
Thanks. I have had that advice as well. Please subscribe if you haven't already.
The tire manufacturer when made the tire that taken in to a count the rise in PSI. As you use the tire I follow the tire pressures sticker on the door jam.
Thank you!
I hope you are safe as you travel. Thanks for watching.
goodyear endurance come in 14" and D rated and best rated for 140kph way more then you need in speed. good luck
Thanks for watching and commenting. I am now using Carlisle's new trailer tire rated for 85mph, so far they are doing well.
Go to a LT tire with the correct load range. TRUTH is trailer tires are the cheapest tires made. RV and trailer dealers push them because it a high margin item. Many high end travel trailers come with LT tires from the factory.
Thanks for watching and commenting. As you may have noted, I upgraded from a load range C tire to a load range D.
@@ImnotChuck. I was talking to Chuck.
Nicely done. Can you even get these tires made anywhere but China?
Viewers have commented that Goodyear has a line of trailer tires that is made in the USA. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Good information. Liked and subscribed.
Thanks so much; I am always gratified to know that one of my "how-to" vids was helpful. Welcome to my eclectic channel.
So reasons 2-5 amount to ‘user error’ and _completely_ override assumption number 1.
Without rewatching the video, I don't remember exactly remember reasons 2-5, but in general, I made a lot of mistakes. I have a different trailer now; it's a tandem axle with much better tires, and I keep them inflated to the max rating. No problems! Thanks for watching.
I am by no means, a "tire expert". But I do have 15 years of experience professionally hauling specialty cargo in my 24-foot trailer. I am fastidious with tire monitoring, care, and maintenance (because my clients required un-damaged, on time deliveries). I crisscrossed the USA from end to end and I have blown tires from every manufacturer. I would paint pen the start mileage and date on each new tire to track its history. I would try to buy Goodyear 10 ply, load range E tires each time. But that luxury is not always offered when you experience tire failures on some remote places on the interstate highways. I always sought the nearest tire shop to replace the blown tire with a new spare (BTW, I always carried three spares). If you blow one tire and can't pull over quickly, you may blow its sister tire in front of, or behind it. Sometimes you can't get what you need and you take what you can get. That can result in a mixed brand of tires, load ratings, speed ratings, number of plies, and mfg dates on your trailer. Try managing that. Years ago, I contacted Carlisle tires to ask them about trailer tires and expected life span. They told me that there is a finite duty cycle to ST tires (heating and cooling) and an average mileage lifespan of 7500 miles. The tread may look fine, the sidewalls smooth, but they said that at 7500 miles, install new tires. That is easier said than done when they blow out randomly. Here is the gorilla in the room. My truck tires go through as many cycles (way more) as the trailer tires, and I have never had a premature blowout (Chevy Duramax at 9200lbs + tongue weight, Michelin LTX-A/T). Yet they say to never use LT tires on a trailer?!. Second question. How is it that my ST tires are rated for 2540-2830lbs, but the trailer wheels are rated for 2000lbs? Let's all chew on that for a while. BTW, after retiring, I was left with 4 Chinese tires on my trailer. Two "Loadstars", one "Hi-Run", and one "Towmaster". My Goodyears and Carlisles were long gone, due to the issues I explained earlier.
I wonder what Carlisle would say now about their new upgraded line of ST tires. Thanks for your comments and observations...good food for thought.
@@ImnotChuck. Good question. My current plan is to buy 5 new cast wheels and 5 Goodyear Endurance ST tires for my retired cargo trailer. It will never see the kind of work it did before, so I should get good service from that setup. FYI, I have had wheel failures from those steel, Chinese "wagon wheel style" wheels. They torque and flex and have broken their welds between the "spokes" and the "rim". They may be fine for light duty trailers, but not for professional use.
The tires do not support your trailer. The AIR inside does.
Air we breathe is 79% nitrogen.
Under inflammation increases the amount of the tire rubbing the road. This increases the temperature.
You are one of the few that mentions balancing. This reduces friction too.
I agree that the confined, pressurized air bears the weight of the trailer, but the tires must keep the air contained. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Look at cooper tires, they are made in the United States
I like Cooper tires, but the Carlisle tires I have now are performing well. They are rated for 85 mph; of couse, I don't run them anywhere near that fast. Thanks for posting.
Chinese trailer tires can be a hit and miss but go look at U-Haul trailer tires and look how successful they are at running Chinese tires.
That's an interesting observation. I should look into that. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
@@ImnotChuck. And most of their trailer tires are not even a radial tire.
I noticed the 1st mistake you made. Tire ply rating insufficient. Load range D or above for me ONLY! Load range C is for automobiles.
Thanks for watching and for commenting. I have bought new load range D tires for my travel trailer.
Hi, We are in a similar situation with a new 3000 lbs travel trailer pulled by a half ton truck that can pull 6400 lbs. Was just wondering how did the trailer handle as a single axle suffering a blow out. Did it sway a lot and was it hard to control your truck when it happened. Any problems stopping the vehicle other than you being in a bad position on the freeway? Does you rig have a weight distribution hitch? Some people say it may help in a blow out situation. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks
Hi Phil. Good question. I generally don't run over 60 mph, and that is probably the speed I was going; I was in the slow lane and there was a vehicle passing me. I remember hearing a loud bang, and for a split second, I though they had bumped the trailer. It was the driver's side trailer tire that blew and I started braking. Of course, the driver's side trailer tire had no braking, but the passenger side did, so the trailer wanted to pull to the right which had a tendency to push the nose of the truck to the left. The amount of push increased if I braked harder and decreased if I braked less, but there wasn't any violent swaying. I pulled over on the paved shoulder, and I remember that I thought the trailer might get into the guard rail. Fortunately, I got stopped quickly without any further incident. Thanks for watching. ETA; I did have a friction anti-sway bar, but did not have a weight distribution hitch. My current trailer is a dual axle, and I would not want another single axle trailer.
@@ImnotChuck. Thanks for the quick reply. I'm sticking with my single axle trailer due to the ultralight weight so my gas mileage won't be too bad. I will eventually get Goodyear Endurance tires that by the way are easily available at your local tire shop or you can use that great online tire company called tire rack and they can ship them to your local tire store for installation. I will also get a weight distribution hitch even though it seems to ride fine without it because I heard in case of blow out the WDH will also help with swaying.
heat also factor balance tires big diffrence
You are correct; heat is a big factor in tire wear. The tires on my new to me trailer are a step up, and are rated up to 81 mph. Of course, I have no intention of running that fast. Please subscribe if you haven't already done so.
Great advice, I learned alot
I think the 40 psi was fine I run 35 in my 8 thousand pound fifth wheel but my tires are radial tires not non radial and not had a blow out yet. But let me add I did once own a 6 thousand pound pull behind that had those non radial tires aka China bombs and had a blow out but I was running 50 pounds in them I think that was a mistake on that trailer. And let me add I had the spare blow out that was mounted on the back just sitting in the yard on a hot summer day what a noise it made . My conclusion run only radial tires and only if you have to run them non radial China bombs on utility trailers.
Thanks for watching and for commenting. I learn a lot from your channel.
You asked for suggested brands of tires NOT made in China
You might include: Michelin LTX and Maxxis ST, probably favoring Maxxis ST tires as tire of choice for quality and safety. I'm now told that Goodyear Marathon tires are made in China, but don't know for sure and they certainly have very mixed reviews, not certain of Goodyear Endurance tires as suggested by, Everything RV by Pat, are made in China or not- certainly worth looking into either way!
Thanks for the input. I am most interested in 14" tires that are specifically for trailers (i.e., marked as ST.) I will certainly look into your suggestions. I appreciate you watching and hope that you subscribed.
You're welcome, I did check and the Goodyear Endurance is made in America after all, tires-easy.com say that size ST205/75R14 D/8PR, Max load 2040, Max PSI 65 , 8 ply, are $107.99 with free shipping. (Best price that I found) The search is over for me, I was going to buy the Maxxis ST, but in checking with them they don't offer the 8 ply anymore, just 6 ply, so I think I'll buy the Goodyear Endurance. Sure glad Everything RV by Pat mentioned these tires.
That's good info. I wish I had bought those; please let us know how they work out for you.
I have heard great things about Goodyear Endurance tires. Here's a link for them. www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Endurance&partnum=075NR4END&tab=Survey?affiliate=FH8
I had 4 out of 5 of my original tires go bad on my last travel trailer. One tore out the fender. Guess what was mounted right above the plastic fender... That's right!!! The wiring harness. I had to rewire the whole thing.. Needless to say, I switched to these and didn't have another problem.
I just bought a new 5th wheel trailer back in September and I'm going to swap out the factory China bombs for these in a 15" version of the same brand of tire.
One more factor you might consider is the fact that Interstate 40 is terrible. Not sure where you live but I hate traveling on I-40 between Williams and Flagstaff. It is, to me, one of the worst patches of interstate I have ever traveled upon.
I would never leave home with the trailer again without a floor jack. I have two of them, one in the truck and one in the trailer. You never know. Besides having one could help you to get level in an awkward situation. The tire iron is also a necessity. Great video. Best of luck, Pat
Thanks for the comment and the link. I agree with you about I-40. Parts of it are awful. Maybe the $ Trillion infrastructure plan will help.
Tire pressures is the main thing any tire would do the same thing if pressure wasn't kept up.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
8-10 ply min
Nitrogen filling is a scam, by tire dealers who bought the expensive air compressor. There is a place for nitrogen filling- aircraft tires that are at 300 PSI, hydraulic accumulators etc. Low pressure tires ( less than 100# ) see no measurable difference in pressure loss or temperature sensitivity. Lots of You-tube on that. Just ignore the ones from the compressor manufacturesrs or the tire shops trying to sell 5$ compressed air. My tires have 80% nitrogen in them. When a brake assembly on an aircraft makes the tire catch fire, 300# of 20% oxidizer stored in the burning tire is a bad idea.
That's an interesting comment that I have never heard before. My local tire dealer/service provider doesn't charge me anything extra for nitrogen fills. Thanks for watching; I hope you subscribed.
I would think the nitrogen filled t
You touched on the speed rating but did not specify what your speed was during the trip. We’re you staying below the speed rating of 65mph during your trip? Exceeding that speed rating can also greatly contribute to blow outs regardless of how many plys your tire has.
Tony Mulheron I believe most blowouts are certainly contributed to excessive speed. I just got home from a 6hr trip to northern Mi pulling a 30’ TT and never exceeded 65mph. It really amazes me how many RV’s past me like I was standing still. The only trouble I’ve had with my trailer tires is when I picked up a nail to close to the sidewall to be patched. It was a real bummer to scrap a nearly new tire.
I stayed at or below 65 most of the time, however, I could and should have done better. Thanks for the comment and for watching.
Were they Radial tires? I drove my single axle trailer 5 miles on highway with Bias ply D15 tires and they were hot to touch. Maybe your tire got hot and blew out from being Bias ply and under inflated!
The tires were radials, but still didn't hold up. I have been on a short trip with the new load range D tires, and they did well, but I will take my first longer trip next week. Thanks for watching and posting; please subscribe if you haven't already.
I use LT tires
I am leery of using anything but ST tires on my travel trailer. ST tires have stiffer sidewalls and are better able to resist flexing as the trailer wig wags. Thanks for your input.
Kinda dumb on PSI opinion. Tires should only be inflate as to what the manufacture of the trailer recommends not what the tire specifies ?
I inflate to the maximum on the tire. I believe that running trailer tires below that contributes to sidewall flex and tire blowouts. BUT that's just my opinion; you make your decision. Thanks for watching and commenting
Floor Jack is good but how much does yours weigh? Made in China?
Yes, the floor jack is made in China. I don't know how much it weighs. Thanks for watching and commenting.
tires got over heated .
They certainly did; the question is why, which I have tried to answer. Thanks for watching and commenting.
What tire pressure does the data plate on the trailer specify?
Hi and thanks for watching. I sold this trailer about a year ago, and bought a 2013 Nash 23F, so I can't answer your question directly. I can say however that the inflation pressure on the tire is more important than what is shown on the trailer.
@@ImnotChuck. my understanding is that the tire is manufactured to support a wide variety of trailers up to a maximum weight limit. The heavier the trailer the more tire pressure is needed. Too much tire pressure for a specific weight trailer, while still within max tire pressure limits, will cause uneven tire wear and therefore shorten the tires lifespan.
@@richardthomas6602 That's not the way I understand it. My view is that trailer tires should be chosen such that the maximum weight of the loaded trailer is less than the load rating on the tire, and the tires should always be inflated to the maximum pressure defined on the sidewall.
You sound just like Mike Huckabee :)
Thanks for watching and for commenting. I'll have to listen to Mike Huckabee and decide if that's a good thing.
Bent the axle or under inflation
Thanks for watching and for your comment. The axle is straight; the main problems were under inflation and cheap tires. Please subscribe if you haven't already done so.
Genaral tire
Thanks for commenting.
NO MORE ST TIRES FOR ME......Went with LT tires on my trailer and NO BLOW OUTS....going on 1-year of trouble FREE use
I don't blame you; blowouts are to be avoided any way that works. Thanks for watching and posting.
😊
your tire wear looks very similar to ua-cam.com/video/lVg8QgIFJoU/v-deo.html
his conclusion was that the weight limit of the AXLE had been exceeded, causing it to bow, causing the tires to be tilted inwards instead of being flat on the ground
That is a possibility; the wear pattern certainly matches. I have not yet checked to see the rating on my axle, but plan to do so the next time I am at the storage site. Then, I might decide to change out the axle. Thanks for watching and for your suggestion.
Check out this link it will be very useful to people that want the facts about tires. www.ustires.org/publications_bulletins?publication_categories=7 CARE AND SERVICE OF PASSENGER AND LIGHT TRUCK TIRES. The ply rating and load range are interchangeable. A “C” load range is a 6 ply rating tire. And a load range “D” is an 8 ply tire. This is an an indication of load carrying capacity. It is not an indication of the plies of material in the tire. See the attached link for more details. I agree with you inflation pressure and possible speed being your most likely cause. Increasing the load capacity of your tire is a good move. One thing to be cautious of is the max inflation the wheel. Nice job on the video.
I have sold this particular trailer, but I have a replacement. I will look at the link. Thanks for commenting.
Yes, China bombs will and continue to exist as long as American companies keep telling Chinese manufacturers to build cheap tires to keep the price low for American consumers.
If an American company tells the Chinese manufacturers to build a "China bomb" with exotic materials and at the highest quality - THEY CAN DO IT - would you or the American consumers be willing to pay $500, $600 per tire?
That is a rhetorical question, so no factual answer is possible. It is my belief that safe RV tires can be made for much less than $500 or $600 in China since they are being made here in the USA for much less than that. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
ST tires are all junk no exceptions
Thanks for watching and for your opinion.