Great video, Tyler. I really enjoy your detail and clear explanations. Gonna send you an email about this, as I'm thinking of upgrading my turbo as well.
I've had to take several turbos apart and I can honestly say, I've never been able to get one of those turbine housings to come loose without a lot of heat and lots of WD40 and lots of pounding! I always use a lot of anti-sieze when I reassemble them also. My own personal H1E Holset which I have taken apart several times over the 24 years I've owned it has always come apart tough even with the anti-sieze everytime I do it too. I will be doing again shortly for more mods and upgrades and pretty sure it will be a hard teardown again but not as hard as it was the first time 24 years ago.
I've figured out the method. Put it on solid concrete and then take a 4pd shop hammer and smack it as hard as you can while rotating it every it. Lol. Not soft but gets the job done.
thats super sick to hear a journal bearing turbo go for that long even with ring and journa;s once every billionths of spin time i own a few 12vs and have gotten int 5 blade turbos my first gen is got 63mm stainless diesel 5 blade and the exhaust housing is a match to a modern holset he 351 but the exhaust impeller has less fins for less restriction i think its got a diffrent bend to the fins its wild how fast they spin floating in oil minnttt
@@charlesphilips2920 The trick to make a turbo last so long is to never get them over heated, never shut them down hot, keep the oil changes up, use good oil & filters and especially never abuse the engine and turbo ! My truck has not been used for continuous pulling but when it was used for pulling it was used to pull large heavy loads like backhoes, hay trailers, logs, one time and this was the last I used the truck for pulling a load was the last time I drove it, it gave up the next day because I couldn't keep primary fuel press and delivery. I used to pull a dead Freightliner on a steel goose neck on a 100 mile trip to the nearest dealership up through the Black Hills of S.D. with no trailer brakes #^&! Spooky on 8 and 10% grades. single wheel rear axle with 13x3 inch drums, dual range transfer case and the G360 5 spd. using low range with a third stick that lets me unhook the front axle or switch from front to rear or both, pretty kool when you brake something. Doesn't leave you stranded from the parts house or able to keep going at least. Anyway, I agree on the super sick part, when I got the truck I at least expected to have to have a turbo rebuild long before this. I'm one of the lucky ones for sure there. I had a 84 IHC 466 in a S21 going over the Grapevine from L.A. to north of Bakersfield 7 days a week and sometimes a bit of extra time from Bakersfield north both ways, I used to pull the latches on the engine cover so I could see the turbo while going up the 7% grade from Wheeler Ridge to Frasier Pass , 11 miles of up hill from 400 ft to 4440 ft above sea level, that turbo would turn bright red in that truck as it was always loaded heavy with the USPS. I never stayed in that truck long enough to see a failure of anything in it. I have seen other turbos bite it and it never is very pretty inside when they do, seldom been able to salvage anything. About the only time a turbo was a good core was when I simply turned them in for a rebuilt when I didn't have time to go through one myself. Anyway that turbo has never made over 30psi on this engine which seems odd to me considering all that has been done to the fuel system. Maybe it's my gauge, I don't know. What I do know is that the truck has always done very well on fuel mileage, any mods I did to the turbo and Inj pump has improved all all around driveability albeit made more smoke which I usually have to work to control around town because of the LEO's they get crabby when you make a lot of smoke.
I really appreciate your videos! You give good simple tutorials on the functional yet cool modifications for the 1st gens. Keep it up man! I have a couple of questions I’d like to ask you via email.
Did you change the fuel pin and governor spring before this upgrade? I’m still running stock on the fueling and was thinking of doing the 16cm turbine housing upgrade but, now would like to do this as well.
I'm getting like 30-32psi of boost with my stock HC1 with bigger intercooler piping, after market intake, 4 inch turbo back exhaust, pump mods and HVLP lift pump. I have a 16cm exhaust housing but never put it on yet so I'd be curious to see what your boost numbers are when your getting on the throttle. They would definitely be high 30's probably pushing 40.
You are getting that with a stock h1c? That seems pretty good! I'm working on my gauge setup so once I have that finished I'll make a video to show my numbers.
@@bobgratton196 The compressor wheel definitely made a difference over stock, but the biggest difference I noticed is when I combined this mod with the 64mm turbine wheel and 12cm exhaust housing.
I wonder if a 5x14 injector would be a good pairing for this upgrade...Looking at rebuilding my H1C and changing to a 16CM exhaust and this 62mm upgrade.
@@OvensGarage What are the stock sticks in a IC'd 5.9 ? 5x9? I'm curious about the up sizing myself, thinking about a set of 5x12 nozzles only since at the moment I don't have any issues with my Inj's. I'm looking at a low cost pressure test unit to buy so I can work on them, I've done several sets of 7.3 units and they always worked out for me. I have an unfinished turbo on hold for the comp hsing, it''s a 60mm on a 64x76 shaft. Needing both housing for that one to replace my modified stock size turbo, AKA had the correct comp wheel for a MWE housing but no MWE groove machined from the factory which I did machine, that made a big improvement along with the later model 12mm hotside and a 4 inch pipe.
@@brettschacher8644 thinking about what turbo I want in my blue truck. Was thinking of taking the 62mm compressor and getting a 60/64/12 on the red truck. Since the blue ones auto the 62 can stay spooled, wondering if the 60 would spool even quicker with the 5 speed
@@OvensGarage That would be a good match turbo for either an auto or man... The small exh housing on the autos gets the boost up faster and keeps it there. The smaller housing does the same for manuals too obviously. I would think a gated 14 would be a better choice for either of the transmissions personally. A lot will depend on how the pump is tuned. If it can fuel, then a larger housing would be logical. Using a small housing is going to be restrictive on the upper end and would need a bigger bypass port to relieve pressure and since higher pressures will be on both sides, you can only get so much from what ever you have before you over run the specs for your assembly. A/R, lbs. per. and all that stuff that turbo engineers with that they print out on graphs and charts. Of course building a set of compounds is a super way to go to get the best of everything. That's what I want !!!! Makes the most use of the most heat for the most response and boost.
Tyler did you do head studs for this setup? I was planning on just doing the 16cm housing for my 92, but now that I found out about the 60mm compressor I thought I'd give it a go I'd rather purchase things separatley because I have the exhaust housing already. I'd probably purchase and put the compressor on next year though because winter is coming up again here in Pennsylvania.
I have the stock head studs and haven't had any issues. Since you are in there you might want to consider getting a bigger turbine wheel on the exhaust side with a matching turbine housing.
@@baileymiller546 yes I believe that's the oem size. Take a look at my 64mm turbine video I think it's a solid pair with either the 60 or 62mm compressor
I find it's pretty good so far. I have the 16cm housing and factory exhaust turbine wheel. I'm planning on upgrading to the 64mm 10 blade turbine wheel though with the hx35 housing which I believe is about 14cm so that will probably spool even quicker.
@@moomoomlik99 if you don't upgrade the exhaust wheel the stock compressor wheel spools a bit quicker because it's smaller diameter but if you upgrade the exhaust wheel and housing it spools quicker than stock
If you have the money it's worth either upgrading the stock turbo or getting a brand new turbo. The hx35 is a moderate upgrade but the compressor and exhaust wheel still aren't much bigger than stock. I don't know the sizes off the top of my head but I would take that into consideration when looking at turbo size.
I just upgraded my HX35. I can say that an HX35 is not enough with my Ppump turned up. You'll probably get the HX35 and wish you upgraded more. I upgraded mine to a 62/64/12cm. It's perfect now. I have stock injectors but im running no fuel plate with an AFC controller. Now I can actually benefit from all of that excess fuel. Also sounds cool
@@reallyaintbuynit2018 Yes sir I know that now. I upgraded to a 67 turbine then learned about a really nice 67/67 for 600 recommended hp. That probably means 650 if you want to push it
@@TAShannon1 as long as you have the fuel to do it I guess. I will be happy with 400 at the flywheel. Max fuel VE from THD is coming. Have my DDP Stage 3 nozzles ready.
I don't have any gauges besides my tach at the moment. I've been working on a project soon though which will incorporate a number of gauges which will be nice to have...
That new compressor wheel makes it sound like a 60 series! Thats cool
Great video, Tyler. I really enjoy your detail and clear explanations. Gonna send you an email about this, as I'm thinking of upgrading my turbo as well.
I've had to take several turbos apart and I can honestly say, I've never been able to get one of those turbine housings to come loose without a lot of heat and lots of WD40 and lots of pounding! I always use a lot of anti-sieze when I reassemble them also. My own personal H1E Holset which I have taken apart several times over the 24 years I've owned it has always come apart tough even with the anti-sieze everytime I do it too. I will be doing again shortly for more mods and upgrades and pretty sure it will be a hard teardown again but not as hard as it was the first time 24 years ago.
I've figured out the method. Put it on solid concrete and then take a 4pd shop hammer and smack it as hard as you can while rotating it every it. Lol. Not soft but gets the job done.
thats super sick to hear a journal bearing turbo go for that long even with ring and journa;s once every billionths of spin time i own a few 12vs and have gotten int 5 blade turbos my first gen is got 63mm stainless diesel 5 blade and the exhaust housing is a match to a modern holset he 351 but the exhaust impeller has less fins for less restriction i think its got a diffrent bend to the fins its wild how fast they spin floating in oil minnttt
@@charlesphilips2920 The trick to make a turbo last so long is to never get them over heated, never shut them down hot, keep the oil changes up, use good oil & filters and especially never abuse the engine and turbo ! My truck has not been used for continuous pulling but when it was used for pulling it was used to pull large heavy loads like backhoes, hay trailers, logs, one time and this was the last I used the truck for pulling a load was the last time I drove it, it gave up the next day because I couldn't keep primary fuel press and delivery. I used to pull a dead Freightliner on a steel goose neck on a 100 mile trip to the nearest dealership up through the Black Hills of S.D. with no trailer brakes #^&! Spooky on 8 and 10% grades. single wheel rear axle with 13x3 inch drums, dual range transfer case and the G360 5 spd. using low range with a third stick that lets me unhook the front axle or switch from front to rear or both, pretty kool when you brake something. Doesn't leave you stranded from the parts house or able to keep going at least. Anyway, I agree on the super sick part, when I got the truck I at least expected to have to have a turbo rebuild long before this. I'm one of the lucky ones for sure there. I had a 84 IHC 466 in a S21 going over the Grapevine from L.A. to north of Bakersfield 7 days a week and sometimes a bit of extra time from Bakersfield north both ways, I used to pull the latches on the engine cover so I could see the turbo while going up the 7% grade from Wheeler Ridge to Frasier Pass , 11 miles of up hill from 400 ft to 4440 ft above sea level, that turbo would turn bright red in that truck as it was always loaded heavy with the USPS. I never stayed in that truck long enough to see a failure of anything in it. I have seen other turbos bite it and it never is very pretty inside when they do, seldom been able to salvage anything. About the only time a turbo was a good core was when I simply turned them in for a rebuilt when I didn't have time to go through one myself. Anyway that turbo has never made over 30psi on this engine which seems odd to me considering all that has been done to the fuel system. Maybe it's my gauge, I don't know. What I do know is that the truck has always done very well on fuel mileage, any mods I did to the turbo and Inj pump has improved all all around driveability albeit made more smoke which I usually have to work to control around town because of the LEO's they get crabby when you make a lot of smoke.
Very well done. Thank you for this. Love the detail 👍
Great job fella 🇺🇸😎
I really appreciate your videos! You give good simple tutorials on the functional yet cool modifications for the 1st gens. Keep it up man! I have a couple of questions I’d like to ask you via email.
Thanks for watching, sure go ahead and shoot me an e-mail. My contact info is in the description.
it sure sounds cool the old cummins
Thanks man!
Your Getrag approves of your new downshifting technique.
Starting to get the hang of it...
Did you change the fuel pin and governor spring before this upgrade?
I’m still running stock on the fueling and was thinking of doing the 16cm turbine housing upgrade but, now would like to do this as well.
I'm getting like 30-32psi of boost with my stock HC1 with bigger intercooler piping, after market intake, 4 inch turbo back exhaust, pump mods and HVLP lift pump. I have a 16cm exhaust housing but never put it on yet so I'd be curious to see what your boost numbers are when your getting on the throttle. They would definitely be high 30's probably pushing 40.
You are getting that with a stock h1c? That seems pretty good! I'm working on my gauge setup so once I have that finished I'll make a video to show my numbers.
@@OvensGarage do you see a big difference with the new compressor wheel ??
@@bobgratton196 The compressor wheel definitely made a difference over stock, but the biggest difference I noticed is when I combined this mod with the 64mm turbine wheel and 12cm exhaust housing.
So if I'm going from the stock exhaust housing 21cm to a 12cm do I need to change anything else like exhaust wheel?
Great video! Thx so much!
I wonder if a 5x14 injector would be a good pairing for this upgrade...Looking at rebuilding my H1C and changing to a 16CM exhaust and this 62mm upgrade.
I'd be curious, let me know if you go with those injectors. The stock injectors with this turbo setup are doing fine for me right now
@@OvensGarage What are the stock sticks in a IC'd 5.9 ? 5x9? I'm curious about the up sizing myself, thinking about a set of 5x12 nozzles only since at the moment I don't have any issues with my Inj's. I'm looking at a low cost pressure test unit to buy so I can work on them, I've done several sets of 7.3 units and they always worked out for me. I have an unfinished turbo on hold for the comp hsing, it''s a 60mm on a 64x76 shaft. Needing both housing for that one to replace my modified stock size turbo, AKA had the correct comp wheel for a MWE housing but no MWE groove machined from the factory which I did machine, that made a big improvement along with the later model 12mm hotside and a 4 inch pipe.
@@brettschacher8644 thinking about what turbo I want in my blue truck. Was thinking of taking the 62mm compressor and getting a 60/64/12 on the red truck. Since the blue ones auto the 62 can stay spooled, wondering if the 60 would spool even quicker with the 5 speed
@@OvensGarage That would be a good match turbo for either an auto or man... The small exh housing on the autos gets the boost up faster and keeps it there. The smaller housing does the same for manuals too obviously. I would think a gated 14 would be a better choice for either of the transmissions personally. A lot will depend on how the pump is tuned. If it can fuel, then a larger housing would be logical. Using a small housing is going to be restrictive on the upper end and would need a bigger bypass port to relieve pressure and since higher pressures will be on both sides, you can only get so much from what ever you have before you over run the specs for your assembly. A/R, lbs. per. and all that stuff that turbo engineers with that they print out on graphs and charts. Of course building a set of compounds is a super way to go to get the best of everything. That's what I want !!!! Makes the most use of the most heat for the most response and boost.
My friend I have 92 manual but dont runn more than 60mph is to slow what nee change for more power is original all so can you gime a tip please
Start with ur fuel pump. U may need to read gear. But ur pump will help ton!
Tyler did you do head studs for this setup? I was planning on just doing the 16cm housing for my 92, but now that I found out about the 60mm compressor I thought I'd give it a go I'd rather purchase things separatley because I have the exhaust housing already. I'd probably purchase and put the compressor on next year though because winter is coming up again here in Pennsylvania.
I have the stock head studs and haven't had any issues. Since you are in there you might want to consider getting a bigger turbine wheel on the exhaust side with a matching turbine housing.
@@OvensGarage so 60 mm exducer and 70mm inducer for the exhaust side then would work out good then?
or wait that's the oem one isn't it? Was looking around on ebay
@@baileymiller546 yes I believe that's the oem size. Take a look at my 64mm turbine video I think it's a solid pair with either the 60 or 62mm compressor
Where did you order the backplate wheel and cover from?
Ebay from turbo labs america
How fast is the spool up is it ok for towing?
I find it's pretty good so far. I have the 16cm housing and factory exhaust turbine wheel. I'm planning on upgrading to the 64mm 10 blade turbine wheel though with the hx35 housing which I believe is about 14cm so that will probably spool even quicker.
@@OvensGarage does it spool faster with that compressor or with the stock one?
@@moomoomlik99 if you don't upgrade the exhaust wheel the stock compressor wheel spools a bit quicker because it's smaller diameter but if you upgrade the exhaust wheel and housing it spools quicker than stock
I’m your opinion what’s better? Upgrade the stock turbo or get the Hx35?
If you have the money it's worth either upgrading the stock turbo or getting a brand new turbo. The hx35 is a moderate upgrade but the compressor and exhaust wheel still aren't much bigger than stock. I don't know the sizes off the top of my head but I would take that into consideration when looking at turbo size.
I just upgraded my HX35. I can say that an HX35 is not enough with my Ppump turned up. You'll probably get the HX35 and wish you upgraded more. I upgraded mine to a 62/64/12cm. It's perfect now. I have stock injectors but im running no fuel plate with an AFC controller. Now I can actually benefit from all of that excess fuel. Also sounds cool
@@TAShannon1 The right HX35 can supply 650hp
@@reallyaintbuynit2018 Yes sir I know that now. I upgraded to a 67 turbine then learned about a really nice 67/67 for 600 recommended hp. That probably means 650 if you want to push it
@@TAShannon1 as long as you have the fuel to do it I guess. I will be happy with 400 at the flywheel. Max fuel VE from THD is coming. Have my DDP Stage 3 nozzles ready.
What are your boost numbers? How much did they change?
I don't have any gauges besides my tach at the moment. I've been working on a project soon though which will incorporate a number of gauges which will be nice to have...
Will this work on a 97 12 valve?
Yep
@@OvensGarage isn't the HX35 original on a Gen2?
What rear gears are in that thing 4:10s
3.50
Could I run bigger injectors with this upgrade?
Yeah I don't see why not. Either way it's probably a good idea to dial in your pump a bit after
Are you still happy with this upgrade so far ?
Thought you left us!!!!!
Never!
This is basically just the HTT stage IV kit from 15 years ago
I'm assuming those were just compressor side upgrades to the H1C as well?
@@OvensGarage Yep, Like $289 back in the day lol. PODs, bomb'd pump and a converter and 350+ wheel HP
Great video,but loose that 16mm exhaust housing trust me!
Looking at getting the hx35 exhaust housing (12cm) with a 64mm 10 blade turbine soon
I did this upgrade also. I would get rid of the stock exhaust manifold also. I just replaced mine with ats single piece manifold.
@@JO-fk1bg Any noticeable differences?
Hey thats where i live haha
Lots of them around here!
Removing the turbo is cheating. A real man would do it on the engine.
Lol