Prop Maker Skills to the Rescue! Restoring Old Car Parts
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- Опубліковано 23 лип 2023
- Bill used his prop making skills to restore window handles for his dad's 1968 Volvo P1800. The small windows on the car have old school handles to pivot the windows open and they were both broken. To restore the handles Bill uses some Bondo body shopping techniques along with molding and casting to create a shiny new set of handles.
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Those original ones were probably bakelite. Very hard plastic, but it gets brittle over time. These turned out really great!
Yeah that checks out. Thanks!
That was my first thought too.
@@punishedprops I've searched a ton of volvo 1800's and they all had metal vent windows from 1961 and all the way to 71. I have no clue where or when this version would have been used?! What year was this model? I'm not sure why the plastic/resin ones would have been used on so few models.
The Bakelite often contains asbestos to. So you should be careful with it.
@@roberttaylor9259I noticed that you didn't get an answer, but the description and video call out that it's a '68.
Volvo P1800 and 122s are some of the most beautiful cars ever made. I have had a couple 122s's over the years.
it was great hanging out with you while you worked!
Have loved that car since my childhood
Vent Windows (what those little windows are called) are awesome. Air movement without being too loud. Even useful in rainy conditions.
In the UK we used to call them "Quarter Lights"
Fascinating!
This was fun and interesting. As someone who is into old cars and motorcycles, reproducing impossible to get parts is a skill we all need.
Right on! Thanks for watching.
Lots of fun. We make replica 6-volt battery cases for 1940's vehicles using Specialty Resin & Chemical Model Pro Black for fine detail backed by 65D Black in a slush casting mold (learned from your videos) and the tops in a dump mold. The Model Pro Black is a rigid resin that can be jet black (shake well) but maybe too brittle in your cross section.
That is crazy cool!
Punished Props and car nerdery in the same video?!
🎶 These are a few of my favorite things 🎵
I have absolutely zero use for this but it was an amazing hour of awe in watching your skills and learning the process. Super interesting, really loved it and incredible final product. Very cool that you were able to do this for your dad.
You have excellent taste in motorcars..
Those little triangular windows served a couple of purposes. The first one was mentioned previously (vent windows, for circulating air in the car without a lot of noise), and the second one is just a feature that many people don't even need as a feature in their cars anymore - It was used to draw smoke out of the car from smoking. It was also used to "flick" the ashes off of your cigarettes too. But all of the old cars have many features that the new ones do not, and they are all related to smoking. There are no more ashtrays, lighters, or cigarette pack holders in the visors, in the dash, or under the dash anymore either.
But, now we have the very important Cup Holders in every car made, as well as having side door pockets for putting water/juice bottles, or sodas in. As well as pockets for holding snacks as well, in the door and side panels. And some cars also have small refrigerators in them, so that we have a place for keeping chilled drinks or medications stored in them that we may need or desire.
Wow that's interesting. It has never crossed my mind that the purposes of the various compartments in cars have changed over the years. I'm going to pay more attention to that from now on... My 2000s VW Polo (and many other VWs I've driven) had a compartment below the radio that was perfect for french fries! I wonder what it was really for.
Absolutely fascinating!
The algorithm has suppressed your content from me despite being subscribed, and I just have to say, it's great seeing y'all on my feed again!
That was a fun project. I always enjoy seeing the variety of skills (and materials... and tools...) that go into a build, but I also enjoy seeing the dead ends and hiccoughs! And knowing that you also have the ability to draft a 3d model for your mould master, it's really fun seeing you choose another approach using stuff you learned when you were tiny and first starting out working on the car you're helping to restore (again). Lovely!
Thank you so much for watching! =D
Oooooo P1800s are gorgeous!
My first car was also a Saab! Great video, nice to be able to leverage all your skills for super practical projects. Although that Noisy Cricket video was amazing!
Nice work! I have had to fix a number of things around the house using my maker skills I've acquired over years of cosplay. Comes in handy!
It really does!
Bill, I'm a Volvo enthusiast and fixer-upper. There's a market for these. P1800s are just becoming more and more desirable and people are trying to rescue as many as possible. You really ought to consider making these available for order.
HA! My dad is already sending me to his Volvo FB group with people looking for them. =D
@@punishedprops Hooray! As it should be, I suppose. When I eventually get a P1800, I may have to pester you for a set. Anyway, you done good!
Beautiful work! This is a great vid B&B! I am a car guy too and solutions like this are hard to come by.
Those windows are called wing windows and they are very useful in a car with no air conditioning.
Could watch you navigate your way through any project. Something so satisfying about the problem-solving and that final result. Great work!
Thank you! =)
Oh those handles..❤ look like bought ones 😁 so great job
Great video!! Awesome to see your skills put to use in that way
I also turned 41 this year. My first car was a 1980 Datsun.
Cheers friend!
I remember the little window we call them aircon.
Awesome use of prop skills, man. Great work! Those things fit perfectly.
Thank you so much!
That was amazing and bout time we got another video 😅 Oooooo and happy belated birthday 🎉
The video was really interesting, I'm now searching the house for things to do. The chicken also looks fantastic. Very yummy 😋
Ha! Thanks, it was delicious.
Cracking idea. I hadn't thought about making replacement parts in the same way i make props. Nicely done.
Thanks!
Nice work! It's great to see examples of how these skills can be used in a wide variety of projects.
Those wing windows actually had a great function. They ventilate without that buffeting noise if you roll down the window. If you ever broke one, to replace, they cost more than the full size door glass.
Oof, I believe it.
Pre-heat all parts if at all possible with the plating. Otherwise the parts are too big and cold and act as a big heatsink for the solder and will never flow into the crack.
Awesome tip, thanks for sharing!
Also, it's better to overdo the flux than under apply. And bigger torch as op said.
I think I've seen Alec Steele do silver solder to join parts a few times and pre-heating all of the parts was critical to getting a strong bond.
Great 2 c ya again...
Happy to be here! =D
Really cool build and awesome helping out your dad.
Love seeing all these iconic swedish cars :) P1800 is one of my favorite.
It's *such* a classic!
wait a second.... I see some old Destiny 1 Weaponry on your wall.. thats really cool
Oh heck yeah! A bunch of friends and Brittany all worked on the original Destiny. We played it a *ton*.
My first car was also a Saab 900S, a 1986 in my case. I'm actually currently working on getting my 1986 Saab 900 Turbo (my third classic 900) back on the road and have a lot of custom parts that I need to make.
Hot diggity! I had 3 1991 Saab 900s cars. Maybe I'll restore one some day.
My current job i can say that skill developed for cosplay has come in handy an skill on the job has come in handy for cosplay 😊
(I work in a lab keeping it running and developing new tests / equipment)
Super cool that you used your skills, again, which have been honed by doing what you do now.
You know it!
That's pretty awesome :) Something tells me you could get into the vintage car accent parts reproduction business.
I'm sure there's a demand. Some of those older parts are getting super hard to find.
I've referred to you several times over the past several years. And one of the key comments I share is when you say that prop making / your life is 90% sanding. 😁🤘🏼
It's *so* true!
I recently tried using my very old tube of green putty to find it just like yours. After seeing people thin Bondo Glazing Putty it in a paper cup with acetone, I tried doing the same with the green stuff. A little went a really long ways and I was able to take about two inches of putty and brush it on (with a HF acid brush) two project's worth of 3D prints and smooth out the layers way better than I was able to by smearing it on with my finger undiluted. Like with extra silicone or resin, it helped to have extra projects on hand to spread it on because of how far it went. It also dried a lot quicker because of how thin it was and how quickly the acetone evaporates.
Something you may want to try before chucking your tube!
32:25 Okay so the tube has been chucked. I'm sure it works fine with a fresh tube but you can always wait another 7 years to try this technique when the new tube dies.
Oh wow that's really neat! I'll keep that in mind.
I fully expected Reynolds to tell you to use Onyx. Also, if you "smear" the hardener into Evercoat instead of whipping it, you won't get pinholes.
Those little windows allowed air to circulate in the Summer when the car was 500 degrees inside.
They tried their best...
To get the solder to flow where you want:
1. Put plenty of flux on the surfaces where you want them joined (you seemed to do this, but for soldering that's easy to clean up, more flux is more better)
2. Solder will tend to flow towards the heat, so heat on the joint or on the opposite side of the joint from where you add the solder and let the warming joint suck in the solder
I think the last resin you used was great I think maybe a little bit of aluminum armature in your mold might of helped but then you would have done multiple poors hopefully they hold together for a while
You dad's car is now a million bucks!!!!
Aaaaaand you can probably sell these.
(my favorite color has always been purple; oh, and some intel from 50: it doesn't get any better)
HA! Dad is already sending me people interested in buying handles.
Had to sand cast a few handles and emblems for my car...pretty much the same as molding...but instead of silicon and plastic..its packed sand and melted metal
That's so hardcore! I would love to do metal casting some day.
Same thing I do. Maker skills are valuable in all aspects of daily life.
Heck yeah! =D
Well the bottle of the resin said semi rigid resin, thats why the first one is so floppy, but great job, awesome result buddy.👍👍👍
It was more "semi" than I thought it would be. 😂
Such a great video! Learned so much!
Thank you!
Those side windows is what you do when your vehicle doesn’t have AC, as just running the fan on the vehicle is just blowing hot air normally on old vehicles. We had construction work trucks that sucked in the summer time that we only had those for Go Faster AC, was always glad to get back to shop and get in my truck with AC.
HA! Go Faster AC. 😂
I liked those side windows for leaving open so a car in the hot sun would let out a little hot air. No rain tended to get into those versus just cracking a window.
That makes a lot of sense, but I was always told those little windows were for cigarettes. Prop your hand up and flick the ash out without risking sending any back into your car.
When you said this video is getting long, I was like WTF?!?! 45 minutes already?
Ooh yeah, I was getting chatty in this one.
With your old spot putty you could try using acetone to re-goop it. It's acrylic based and the solvent in it was probably an acetone analog.
Great tip, I'll have to try that next time.
Nice job Bill! I’ve found Task 9 to be great for thin strong parts also :)
Thanks! I'll give that stuff a try some time.
All cars have a printed book that details every single part and how they are put together. Get one of those and you will find the part number. There is a decent chance you can still find old parts online. Either way, its a cool book to have on the shelf. It might not make a good video but is effective when you need parts 🤷🏼♂️
I've made car parts in a similar way! The hardest part for me was finding a 2-part resin that was hard enough and had the heat/cold/UV resistance you need for making car parts. I never did find anything that I really liked. Those levers you made came out great though!
Thanks so much! This car is stored in a garage, so I'm not too worried about UV or temperatures, but that's definitely a concern for a daily driver.
brilliant
Thanks!
I've fixed some things for family members and they were like "why do you know how to do that?" 😂
It's a good flex. =D
You might have better luck with the silver solder if you sand the joined surfaces down to bare metal. Any time I have problems with the solder not flowing and sticking, that seems to be the reason. Still use flux, of course.
That spot putty is forbidden toothpaste
It really is.
To remove surface rust from steel parts or even corrosion from other metals, get 240 sand paper and wd-40. Oil sanding gives one of the best results to remove corrosion with out much material it self being removed, but you can go deeper with little bit more sanding. After that clean it with alcohol to remove oil, then depending on material say cast iron that is porous you want to heat it up to remove any oil and gunk from pores, but on clean break line steel just run it trough ultrasonic to remove any pours, roughen up the surface a bit with rough sanding paper, clean it again and then silver solder it to get best possible fusion, though why not just tig welding the part? Even if you dont have tig, outsourcing that to expert does not cost much if you go talk to worker them selfs. Box of coffee usually is enough for simple job like this. Just do the prep work so they only need to weld it, so cleaning and in low tolerance parts make a jig so part is in place it should when guy starts to weld it, since quality can differ from person to person.
12:30 Yeah dont hold the peace and drill like that. Specially with the small bits. You ether snap the bit and/or punch it trough your hand. You already have hole so couple large washers and bolt, witch can be used to mount it into a wise allows to hold the peace in place, while you can use both hands to stabilize the drill. To get angle right get another set of eyes to look one axis while you check the another. Center punching and and drilling does wonders in cases like this, specially if you are making master for a mold.
And no, small bit has very tiny cutting teeth so it needs lots of rpm to actually do anything. Of course it could well be dull, so get diamond file and sharpen it. Learning to sharpen drill bits is one of the tougher and cost saving skill to learn. Otherwise you waste ridiculous amounts for bits and throw away perfectly usable ones. Only reason bit might be ruined permanently is if you over heat it to point of destroying temper so it dulls faster... but even then you can mod it, use the bottom as hard pin axle, dovel like in this or make it only to be used for really soft materials.
Well, the soldering part did not go too well, did it... some thoughts: If you were able to clean the rust away with isopropyl alcohol, then it probably was not rust in the first place. I guess this part is chrome plated pot metal or some other alloy. If that is the case silver soldering would not have worked, as the melting point of the silver solder is higher than that of the supposed alloy. When you silver solder steel or iron you have to get the metal quite hot, it will change color to orange. Heat is key here, as is plenty of flux. Needless to say a soldering iron will not get you those temperatures. Also you used lots and lots of metal to prop up the part, these metal things will draw the heat away from the part you are working on. When I saw your roll of solder I wondered if that is silver solder at all, looks more like plumbing solder to me. You simply can not melt silver solder with a soldering iron. For silver soldering you probably want an oxy-acetylene blowtorch...
What you could try next time: fix the part with super glue and make a silicone mold from it. There are temperature resistant silicones out there. Then get some old Matchbox or Hotwheels cars and melt up the metal bodies. Use this metal to cast a new part. You will not get a true chrome finish by polishing, but you perfectly know how to paint things to look like chrome, dont you?
Edit: Robert Tolone has a pot metal casting video! ua-cam.com/video/wRU-IlIBPKY/v-deo.html
Hey, we ALL become our Dads! 😂
It's unavoidable. =)
The Saint!
You know it! Dad has a Saint sticker on the back of his car that I made for him.
A few days ago I cleaned all my tools that had rust with a metal brush type bit that I had bought to wear down pieces of eva foam
How handy is that! =D
you CAN use talcum powder with superglue, but you can also just use the sanding dust from the bondo you have sanded off.
Great thinking!
iirc, volvo decided to make an electric version of this for like the 50th anniversary or something... was pretty rad... :D
I would like to see the huge folding bone blade from riddick
Since you are getting older, have you considered getting a higher work surface? I believe Jewelers benches tend to be about 39 in tall, and I've seen watchmakers benches at about 38 in tall. I'm beginning to suspect they have the right idea, and when I replace my current made from a folding table workbench, I plan to go to at least 38 in tall.
That's a pretty great idea.
Great work! Did you clean off the polish residue with acetone before you tried to solder?
Silver solder is not space filling, so you need very well fitted parts that the solder can wick into by capillary action. You'll also always have difficulty soldering a heavy chunk of brass to something lighter and thinner, since everything needs to reach the right temperature at the same time. And your little MAP torch may have trouble getting that chunk of brass hot enough anyway.
Thanks for the tips!
And now I want to build a car from scratch. You are such a bad influence, although I'm sure you already know that much.
Something pre-1910, and I'd even get to finish everything in polished walnut and brass...
As if I didn't have enough things to obsess over.
Mmmm walnut and brass is a match as good as peanut butter and chocolate.
I'm kinda glad you didn't go the lathe route on this, even those it's a legitimate way of doing it sometimes people just want to see something they can do easily themselves. Like I also watch Adam Savage build amazing things and fix odds and ends with his skills, but he's also got a shop full of tools that collectively cost more than my home to do it with. And always appreciate seeing the "Make Fail Make" process for any maker.
It felt good to go old school on this one. Gotta keep those skills sharp.
I knew I should not have watched this video. Now 1. I have to buy a 3D or Resin printer. I have way to many ideas on how to fix some of my truck's canopy handles.
Technically, those windows are for old school AC... when open, they redirect wind into the car when the car is moving... :D
Looked for these on row-52, but couldn't find this particular car... there were a coupe of similar ones, but I'm not sure the lever was the same.
Would some glass fiber in the casting resin help with rigidity/strength?
Should of put the bits in an ultrasonic bath for jewellery first
Everything should have wing windows again! As far as "functionally useless", I disagree. You just have to use them for what they are - vents. Open the fresh air vents in the car and then crack the wing window and you get flow-through air without the boom of a lowered roll-down window. I see New York plates... in the spring and autumn, if you drive the car and the inside of the windshield fogs up (as it will in most cars) you can crack the wing vents open and it will almost suck the condensation off the inside of the glass before the defroster starts working - they work pretty well in the winter too, but it's a balancing act of not freezing and defrosting the glass :) . And in the days where nearly everyone had a cigarette in their mouth a cracked wing vent will pull most of the smoke out. Conversely, in the summer open the wing windows fully and they will direct air right on you.
As a car guy and a wanna-be propmaker - Awesome job...
Ok, they are definitely useful. 😂
@@punishedprops 😂
The originals were probably bakelite the same thing that vintage phones and the grips for the MP40 were made from.
Oh fantastic!
Cast them in aluminum or brass for durability.
Good taste in cars! Really sad that SAAB got gutted and split into pieces:/ *sad swede noises*
37:25 You had a twin brother? Interesting. I think that getting a smooth surface makes it hydropobic so it could sail across the water easier.
Oh yeah I have an identical twin brother. He went into science and I went into art.
chavant nsp is a great clay instead of bondo no waiting for it to dry
The vent windows aren't functionally useless. You can flick your cigarette ash out of them. With the added bonus of it flying in the eyes of anyone in the back seat if they have the rear windows open.
Was that silver solder you were using? I’ve not seen that melt with an iron before. Regular solder wont do anything to hold that together.
Sta-Brite has stuff that will melt with a soldering iron: amzn.to/3YfsNTT
32:56
i did NOT KNOW that pointy end on the cap was meant to open the seal!
🎵 The more you knowwww 🎵
With Dragon Con right around the corner, will I be seeing you guys again this year, or are you sitting this one out?
We will be there in full force. Look out Atlanta! =D
Just curious, did you contemplate 3D scanning it, then printing in ABS or maybe something better? You did an awesome job as it is
That would have been a fun route. I might still try 3D scanning the parts just for fun.
@@punishedprops honestly I would've went your path as well for my own car(or my dad's), but I was thinking about the opportunity for your dad to be a hero in his car club when he says his son can make them all some mirror knobs. Lol
So the one thing that concerns me is that cars heat up from the sun. Will that resin hold up in the heat or will it go soft and deform? It might be a good idea to have a wire embedded in the perimeter.
That's a pretty good idea. This car lives in a garage, so it should be fine for another 50+ years.
Wonder if you'd ever consider making replica car parts like this as a business model...
How many of these would you have to make to make it worth it... =p
The handles are probably ABS. You could scan and print them in ABS with 100% fill, texturing to match would be your biggest problem.
I didn't think to 3D scan them, that sounds fun!
No, those are not ABS, they´re Bakelite.
Should you not have run some wire through it just to add a little more reinforcement?
I don't think these castings will see a lot of use, so I'm not too worried, but that's a good idea.
@@punishedprops fair enough, just seemed like it could add some rigidity.
Are the handles bakelite?
There's a good chance they were.
You don't need buttons unless your trying to keep near historical accuracy. Or there's an actual locking mechanism inside the window pane portion.
Dad wants everything on this car to look as original as possible.
@@punishedprops it's looking good.
Parts used vs buying a whole new part what would price difference be here?
I have no idea, these particular parts are really hard to come by nowadays.
twin brother? there are two cute nerds?
Oh yeah, I've got a doppelganger out there.
@@punishedprops wow! i hope you get to do a project with him some day on this channel! that'd be a trip
Pleaseeeee make a full tutorial on making a detailed helmet in fusion 360!!!! Please please payed or unpaid idm
I sodder big items that need to be stationary in my oven with low temp sodder. Much easier that way. Just set it, ans forget it. 😂
Ooh that's a really great idea!
Weird Volvo made these in plastic in the 60's most where chromed metal.
Ad "UA-camrs make it look so easy!" - ua-cam.com/users/shortsR68oZrorN4c - The second iteration went much better, but the device in questin is stil not done :) Also: the silver part you had looks chrome plated. Chrome doesn't really take solder. Would need to scrape off a bit of the coating where the solder should go.
Ahh yes, I still have so much to learn.