Hey man, thanks so much for posting this video.( I did the exact same thing when rewiring my 670 so that I could get to the controls from the seat.) You have shared some valuable into.
Gap is fine, used to use the cardboard method, milk jug is fine. I typ let the coil pull against the magnet atop the spacer. I'm having a similar issue and thinking I have a coil that's cutting out. TDC doesn't matter for those kind of coils, but set the gap over the magnet to free up your hands. You could get it running full steam, when it starts to falter, pop off the other coil wire. Check the resistance from the hot lead to the spade terminal, also check between both terminals and the bracket. You will need that fan shroud once you start running, likely you know that, I love the alternator pulley!!
Yeah, turns out that I wasn't testing the diode thoroughly enough and it was internally shorted. That was enough to mess with the spark. I replaced the diode set my air gap for coils to 0.20 and it runs just fine now
@Travis Matheney easiest way to tell is if you replace whichever coil is bad or both, and you still have a miss like it's running on one cylinder. Good news is, you don't technically need that diode, as long as everything else is wired correctly. My coils go straight to a kill switch now, then frame ground and no issues. I plan on making other videos soon, for fool proofing and explaing the basics and testing out theories
Hey man, thanks so much for posting this video.( I did the exact same thing when rewiring my 670 so that I could get to the controls from the seat.) You have shared some valuable into.
Any time brother! Feel free to check in any time if you have any other issues or questions
Gap is fine, used to use the cardboard method, milk jug is fine. I typ let the coil pull against the magnet atop the spacer. I'm having a similar issue and thinking I have a coil that's cutting out. TDC doesn't matter for those kind of coils, but set the gap over the magnet to free up your hands. You could get it running full steam, when it starts to falter, pop off the other coil wire. Check the resistance from the hot lead to the spade terminal, also check between both terminals and the bracket. You will need that fan shroud once you start running, likely you know that, I love the alternator pulley!!
I put a predator 670 on a international cub cadet 782 and i did the same thing and now i got to replace the coils
Yeah, turns out that I wasn't testing the diode thoroughly enough and it was internally shorted. That was enough to mess with the spark. I replaced the diode set my air gap for coils to 0.20 and it runs just fine now
@@dwayneellis2003 hopefully I didn't short out the diode
@Travis Matheney easiest way to tell is if you replace whichever coil is bad or both, and you still have a miss like it's running on one cylinder. Good news is, you don't technically need that diode, as long as everything else is wired correctly. My coils go straight to a kill switch now, then frame ground and no issues. I plan on making other videos soon, for fool proofing and explaing the basics and testing out theories
If you smoked your coil(s) from letting the kill wires from the diode touch +12v (like i did), then I'd bet it cooked part of the diode at least.
@@dwayneellis2003 man that would be great did smoke come up from under the plastics mine came from left side facing front of engine