Ascending Double Rope, Mid Rappel, with VT Prusiks
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- Опубліковано 4 жов 2024
- What happens when you head down a rappel on double rope and at some point realize that you have to come back up the rope for whatever reason while wearing a backpack? A scenario indeed, one more directed to canyoneering.
I demonstrate how to stop a rappel while wearing a backpack and ascend back up double rope using VT Prusiks. The path to ascension continues....
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Link for VT Prusik: amzn.to/2CQN4Uv
DISCLAIMER: You Are On Your Own. This video should not be used in place of proper instruction in the ascension of rope with mechanical devices or other means. Stay safe out there!
Next time just tie your pack off to the lines and when you get to the top pull it up. You’ll find the extra tension on the rope also helps you to slide your compression knots.
Good to see people training...and also owning the learning process vs acting like you are teaching a skillset already perfectly owned. Verbally talking through your observations, wins, and opportunities is helpful to the viewer! Well done!
Love the honesty... no, oh yeh .. well if this happens you do this.... most are all bullshit in their backyard shiny gear experts. Love your style man. Even pointing out what you could have done better. That's how we learn, by doing it, not talking.
Welcome to the Department of Redundancy Department.
Well, he's not dead yet. Slow and steady
Thanks for the effort. Enjoyed watching.
I would never consider a leg loop as a point of contact for safety. If your harness VT failed your foot loop is not going to stop you from ground falling. This presents a very dangerous perception and there are a number of beginner comments stating that they have learned things.
Add a loose clove hitch from the main ropes into the belay loop just so you are tied into something solid incase your friction hitches fail. You’ll have to keep adjusting this as you climb to take out the slack but it’s much safer
More efficient if you have the leg loop prusik higher on the double rope than your harness prusik. You should be able to lock off your descender relieving you from rapping the rope around your leg. We practice rappelling, then transitioning to ascending and ascending transitioning to rappelling, while on rappel. Self rescue. Single rope rappel makes it easier, as well as providing for contingencies, keeping the extra rope in a bag at the top.
Hey good job. If I can make a couple of unsolicited constructive suggestions :) Stay calm. Nerves can cause mistakes. If you were trying to ascend a double rope going from hanging free to going over a sharp ledge you would find it very difficult (or impossible) with that configuration. One thing you can do in that situation is to put a caribiner into the prussik (spine of biner against main rope) and then you can use that as a handle. Also, if you had some webbing you could very quickly make a chest harness which would help your posture if you connect that to the lower prussik (which may or may not slide by itself as you stand up each time).
Why don't you just tie the pack to the tail of your rope? Unless there are some overhangs it might get stuck on when you pull it up.
of so i dont wanna hate, i wanna simplify thing bcuz complicated has more chances of mistakes. You should have your prussik below the 8, (to reduce the % of the force it has ti hold). you have another longer prussik that you wrap around the rope at the top, as high as you can. Then you stand up on that, take out the 8 and slide the backup prusik up. rinse and repeat. also, if you wanna be triple safe, add a clove hitch below all of that. Hope this helps someone( bonus tip: if you use a reverso clip the eye to the belay loop and just pull slack)
Been looking for a video like this. Thanks for the post!!
Thanks for watching!
I stop on my safety prusik then add a second prusik above. I drop loops from the top prusik to both feet for twice the climbing power. I keep my figure 8 in place for safety and tie off. Way faster as you're only one attachment to your rope.
9:36: Drop sling. Haha .. Happens to the best of us! Absolutely wonderful video nonetheless. Many thanks!
I’m just learning the ins/outs of canyoneering. Wouldn’t it make sense to tie a Stone Knot up top on the first rappel with a carabiner locking the knot? This would allow the first one down to be able to choose between single or double rope ascension if they needed to come back up.
Tie in to your harness with shoulder slings girth hitched or with locking biners, not with a chain link. Also, I recommend using the drystel knot instead, vt prussik cords looooove that knot and handles better.
Thanks for the video. I’ve been thinking about trying some rope climbing/rappelling. I think I’ll stick to watching UA-cam. 😊
I like to lock off the rappel device before doing anything further.
Personally I would have used two VT. They bite fast and you already had it tied as your second point of attachment.
I would've started with my foot stepped up really high in the lower prusik to cover the maximum distance with each step up. Am I missing something?
Interesting video. Now show us the easy way .... there IS an easyway, isn't there? Cause I would be on that rope til the vultures found me. (beginner 101)
Perseverance wins every time. Next time try to unlock the prusik before sliding it. It will make your life much easier.
if you put your autoblock knot below your rappel device, extend your rappel device from your harness and hang your pack from your rappel device as you rappel, you will be more efficient and safe. happy rappeling!
Interesting, I'll be sure to give that a try! Thanks for watching!
He said out the gate he’s not gonna focus on “why didn’t you do XXX” and I get that. Nobody has perfect foresight. My point with my question is not to point out something he could have done, but I actually want to know if this would have worked:
If he had put any random ATC on the ropes at the top, just below his anchor, not attached to anything but the rope, would he have been able to use ascenders to go up, as long as he’d had some wrong on each rope at all times?
Just found this video while learning about this type of stuff so I'm commenting late but assuming you haven't discovered this info yourself figured I'd answer your question. I've been nerding out on rope rigging lately and playing with various setups in my living room and at local crags so I don't mean to pass myself off as an expert but have learned enough to be able to answer your question.
ATC could work in theory assuming someone up top is hanging onto the brake strand, but would be an unconventional solution. If there is someone else up top there are lots of rigging options that would fix one or both lines allowing the use of single strand ascenders. If you were the last one coming down you need to be able to pull the rope but there are options that would fix one strand. Fiddlestick is a retrievable system that fixes both strands but ascending a single strand on that system seems like a very bad idea. HowNOT2 put out a great series on canyon rope systems that goes over these rigging options in detail if you want to learn more.
Thank you for the video, sir. Here's a question to whoever can answer it: what is the point in buying a VT prusik when you can make them with rope? Thank you all!
I’m not an expert but it seems the advantages of buying a purpose-built VT prusik is two-fold. First, the commercial option has loops that are sewn and covered in heat-shrink tubing, they are more sleek/streamlined creating an easier to use tool that contributes less to gear congestion near a harness belay loop. Second, the commercial version uses rope with aramid sheathing that is more heat-resistant vs standard rope or accessory cord. Since many use the VT prusik as their layer of redundancy while sliding along a rope (think abrasion), durability is paramount. For me, its an easy decision to spend the $25 and have the piece of mind that it’s as durable as possible.
@@jakec5479 the sewn loops allow you to tie the Valdotain Tresse which is a friction hitch releasable under load. This is not the knot being used here which is a Klemheist I believe.
@@eonblue46 blakes hitch can easily be made of rope and can be released under load( arborists use them for going up and down; make sure you tie backup knot)
Im very noob to climbing but would you be able to do a knot to knot connection and simply add another climbing rope to lengthen it, and then when get to knot,simply tie to new rope then disconnect from shorter rope,or os this totally something cannot do
Why not standard prussics on the ascension?? Is it just personal preference or a reason
The VT Prusik is said to slide up easier then a standard prussic. Here is a really good video that explains it as well as the Voldotaine Tresse: ua-cam.com/video/Z-xjqI1WOY8/v-deo.html
15:35 why is there a bolt there next to that crack? Who's bolting Trad climbs?
I thought the same thing... Looks like that crack takes nice gear... Then there's a bolt 6 inches away?
"Oh, my kingdom for a shunt!"
Amirite??
Very impressive! What was the rappel rope you were using?
9.2mm Imlay Rope, thanks for watching.
I’m new just trying to learn. My question is you didn’t show you anchoring the rope before repelling,it looked to me just one point? Shouldn’t it be anchored in more then one point?
If you are new and just trying to learn, I highly recommend getting professional training. To answer your question, the anchor is a master point tied into a piece of webbing, the webbing has been passed through two bolts and tied with a water knot.
You are correct there is only one point on this setup. If in a group you want redundancy then you could tie in with a Double Figure 8 as seen here: i.stack.imgur.com/QfxOM.jpg This has redundancy at the anchor point with the two loops above the figure eight as well as below the figure eight for the person on rope. Either point could have a failure and there would be a backup. It comes down to speed vs redundancy. If in a group the last person would have to undo the backup system and go back to what is seen as the setup in this video to be able to pull the rope.
Are those older Petzl Attache carabiner's before they made them H/I type? trying to find a decent replacement and not a huge fan of the SG Rocklock. Any recommendations?
Are you talking about the orange HMs biners he's using? One of them at least looks like a Rock Exotica Pirate, which I can highly recommend.
I would have left the pack tied off on my rope and pulled it up after I made my ascent to the top..
Valduteen is much better for this position.
cant belive what i see ?! what you doing here safty is anader not what you doing..
to much talking mate