they definitely don't wear out as frequently as the Springs made for the Linn turntables , but I think it's safe to say that after 40 years it's a good idea to replace these. most often what you will see is they are badly tilted to one side. this can be compensated by twisting the spring to the opposite side , but overall , it's better to just have a fresh spring with more vertical propensity than horizontal. the first thing I noticed when I went to install my first set was it was much much easier to attain a clean vertical bounce almost immediately, whereas there is definitely more spring twisting involved with the older ones. believe me, I have a lot of experience with the twisting method! however, it takes a lot of finesse , whereas is the new spring requires much less in that regard.
So i just ordered the spring kit from you for my 165 but ai dont see a 3rd video to explain how much to tighten the new nuts, as far as tension goes🤷♂️
Well, I have looked everywhere and can't find part 3, but for those who do not know you are looking for a 6mm gap between the face plate and the bottom of the platter, You can use a 6mm drill bit laid flat to check clearance all the way around, using Linn lp12 springs is a massive improvement and not expensive.
Hi, great videos. Having a few problems. Platter is level, but the left side is springy, while the right hand side of the platter is much stiffer to push down. Any ideas what this could be? If the soft side of the spring are facing the outside, what are the effects?
3:00. "All three (springs) I try to point in that direction," you say. Please explain what exactly you mean by this. Do you mean "in the direction of the main bearing" (like the first spring), or do you mean "in a direction parallel to that of the first spring." These two very different interpretations seem equally plausible to me from what you're saying.
I put the weaker side of the spring to the spindle I would have put the weaker side out the outer Edge? What's the benefit of putting it towards a spindle
Very good tutorials Dave. Are you going to put up part 3 adjusting the suspension which I am very interested in doing? I see that you had your feeler gauge ready but what gap are you going to check?
Available to those who have purchased the kit. If you have purchased the kit, email me at the address listed on the business card that accompanied the springs.
I can’t understand why you should replace or clean metal springs. These are totally out of sight. Replace the foam, this is a good upgrade as the foam is functional for damping the spring vibrations and foam disintegrates after 40+ years.
absolutely not Linn Springs. If you go to the eBay listing, you can read about the fact that these are reverse-engineered from an original pair from a TD - 160. these are the first time these Springs have been available in decades. they were manufactured by one of the top spring makers in the US and then independently verified for accuracy
Hi, Is it easy to adjust the springs after? Because I need to replace those of my TD150 and I'm hesitating doing it myself with your kit or letting a pro doing it. Thanks
So you face the weak side of the spring toward the bearing well. I take it this only would apply to a Thorens? My old installation booklet for my 1983 AR tells me that the tonearm board needs to be even on all sides and this is accomplished by turning the springs until its even on all sides. So my question is what benefit would there be to have the weak part of the springs facing the bearing well? Thanks
The weak side is the STARTING point. I am almost always twisting the springs for final adjustment and find the "weak side in" is the best start to accomplish that.
One of the problem with coil springs is they are twisted torsion bars. There is always that twisting component in their travel. (PS Linn (or Ariston) took a measuring tape to a TD150 and built the LP12, all LP12 parts slot straight on a TD150. Top plate included). What they shouldn't have done is to compress a heavy spring and instead hang it from a leaf spring or rubber. Compressing stuff is always worse. Hanging from a coil spring would and does help with less problems. What Thorens and Linn et al have is a poor engineering solution and this is just a fiddle around,as it always is, to make the best of a bad situation. Edit if you want a perfect bounce and isolation hang your subchassis from some rubber bands (not the ones the postman chucks away)..
Great video! How tight do I make the springs? Thanks again!
they definitely don't wear out as frequently as the Springs made for the Linn turntables , but I think it's safe to say that after 40 years it's a good idea to replace these. most often what you will see is they are badly tilted to one side. this can be compensated by twisting the spring to the opposite side , but overall , it's better to just have a fresh spring with more vertical propensity than horizontal. the first thing I noticed when I went to install my first set was it was much much easier to attain a clean vertical bounce almost immediately, whereas there is definitely more spring twisting involved with the older ones. believe me, I have a lot of experience with the twisting method! however, it takes a lot of finesse , whereas is the new spring requires much less in that regard.
So i just ordered the spring kit from you for my 165 but ai dont see a 3rd video to explain how much to tighten the new nuts, as far as tension goes🤷♂️
Well, I have looked everywhere and can't find part 3, but for those who do not know you are looking for a 6mm gap between the face plate and the bottom of the platter, You can use a 6mm drill bit laid flat to check clearance all the way around, using Linn lp12 springs is a massive improvement and not expensive.
If you purchased the springs, email me at the address on the business card.
Hi, great videos. Having a few problems. Platter is level, but the left side is springy, while the right hand side of the platter is much stiffer to push down. Any ideas what this could be? If the soft side of the spring are facing the outside, what are the effects?
3:00. "All three (springs) I try to point in that direction," you say. Please explain what exactly you mean by this. Do you mean "in the direction of the main bearing" (like the first spring), or do you mean "in a direction parallel to that of the first spring." These two very different interpretations seem equally plausible to me from what you're saying.
Also, I've ordered some new springs
Hi dave, where the part 3? We need to learn how to adjust the springs and make the boucing test, etc... Congrs for the excelent video. Tks
At this point, it is only available for those who purchase the kit.Dave
@@ddarch88 Ah ok. Thanks!
I put the weaker side of the spring to the spindle I would have put the weaker side out the outer Edge? What's the benefit of putting it towards a spindle
Very good tutorials Dave. Are you going to put up part 3 adjusting the suspension which I am very interested in doing? I see that you had your feeler gauge ready but what gap are you going to check?
The third video is for those who buy my spring kits, available on eBay.
I;m confused. At the end of the video you mentioned the follow-up on tuning the suspension (or something to that effect). Yet there is no video?
Available to those who have purchased the kit. If you have purchased the kit, email me at the address listed on the business card that accompanied the springs.
I can’t understand why you should replace or clean metal springs. These are totally out of sight. Replace the foam, this is a good upgrade as the foam is functional for damping the spring vibrations and foam disintegrates after 40+ years.
Are these still available? For fitting to a td150.
May I ask you . Where can I buy the 45rpm adapter for Thorens TD115 . Thanks.
absolutely not Linn Springs. If you go to the eBay listing, you can read about the fact that these are reverse-engineered from an original pair from a TD - 160. these are the first time these Springs have been available in decades. they were manufactured by one of the top spring makers in the US and then independently verified for accuracy
My table is a deck makes too much noise . Need how to set spring to balance sub casie
is that english?
I have one but I don't know how time fix the ground problem, can somebody help me ??
Hello, how can i buy the spring kits for td 125 mk1 ? Thanks
Samuel Yiau they will be available in my eBay store in May, 2017
Are those Linn springs?
where is part 3? i can't find it....
If you purchase the spring kit, you email me at the address on the business card and I send you the link.
Why the extra washers?
It helps with turning the entire spring during adjustment. Thorens used these on the Super and other later models.
Replacement Spring Kit sold here: www.ebay.com/itm/Thorens-TD-160-145-147-160-MKII-145-MKII-Replacement-Spring-Kit-for-Turntable-/222058161366?hash
Is there a part 3 to this video for adjusting the suspension?? The most important part.
If you purchased the kit, email me at the address on the included biz card. The third video is only for purchasers of the kit.
I understand completely. Will be in touch.
Hi,
Is it easy to adjust the springs after?
Because I need to replace those of my TD150 and I'm hesitating doing it myself with your kit or letting a pro doing it.
Thanks
The third video, which you get upon purchase of the kit, spells things out very plainly. On the DIY scale, I would rate it a 5/10.
So you face the weak side of the spring toward the bearing well. I take it this only would apply to a Thorens? My old installation booklet for my 1983 AR tells me that the tonearm board needs to be even on all sides and this is accomplished by turning the springs until its even on all sides. So my question is what benefit would there be to have the weak part of the springs facing the bearing well? Thanks
The weak side is the STARTING point. I am almost always twisting the springs for final adjustment and find the "weak side in" is the best start to accomplish that.
One of the problem with coil springs is they are twisted torsion bars. There is always that twisting component in their travel. (PS Linn (or Ariston) took a measuring tape to a TD150 and built the LP12, all LP12 parts slot straight on a TD150. Top plate included). What they shouldn't have done is to compress a heavy spring and instead hang it from a leaf spring or rubber. Compressing stuff is always worse. Hanging from a coil spring would and does help with less problems. What Thorens and Linn et al have is a poor engineering solution and this is just a fiddle around,as it always is, to make the best of a bad situation.
Edit if you want a perfect bounce and isolation hang your subchassis from some rubber bands (not the ones the postman chucks away)..
were is part 3?
Available to those who purchased the spring kit. Email me at the address on the enclosed biz card.
why ?
why not also change the foam inside the springs?