Thank you for putting this series on UA-cam. I thought my cab was too far gone to be worth it. Seeing how great yours looks now is really getting me into taking this thing on myself.
Awesome! Rust repair seems overwhelming at first, but if you go slow and take your time, it's really not that bad. If both sides are rusted out like my truck, only repair one side at a time. The other side can be used as a visual reference and to extract measurements from. Thanks for watching! Best of luck!
Thank you!! I more confidently tackled my floors and rocker. I don’t have the time necessarily to replace as much as you. Kick panels were okay enough, and I did get inner rockers, but they weren’t gonna cover enough to replace. I cut them out and just installed outer. I like the idea of not having trapped water between inner and outer rocker. It’s still solid, and all sealed. Anyways, some may not like it, but it’s solid.
I bought my panels through Brothers Trucks and Summit Racing. However, all the panels were manufactured by Goodmark... and you can buy directly from them. They match pretty well. The thickness is exactly the same as factory. However, the stampings are not factory perfect. Particularly the kick panel patches. Inner rocker panels were a little off too. Floor pans and outer rockers fit pretty well. Good luck with your project!
My first p/u truck was a 1977 C-10 Chevy. Bought it off the local Chevy used car lot.. Still within the 77' model year. It only had 3,000mi on on the odometer & 9mo left on the factory warranty..Guy traded in early..His wife had given him a bundle of joy. Pick up trucks not being family oriented transportation, his wife insisted on a change in vehicle.. Only thing I didn't care for was the anemic 305ci engine..Other wise great truck..
Hey Mike really appreciate the info and u getin right back to me so quickly ,your information is right on point. I'll try drilling out the welds on the support today and see what happens. thank you for your help and your time..
very good video it helped me a lot thanks for making it available ,my problem is I just cut the bad parts of the driver side floor then notices that both supports were shot as well, I have owned a transmission shop or over 15 years retired now, but never done any metal rust repairs like in this case. I cut the little support that was welded to the rocker out but the long support that both run thru the body mount support is what's giving me the problem, can anyone give me some info on how I should cut away the long support, air hammer, hammer chisel grinder. I plow snow with the truck and need to try and get it straight b4 the next storm, to be inspected. Thank u for your time.
+BIG EVIL That part is available as a reproduction replacement part that can be welded in. It's held in with spot welds just like the other panels. Drill them out the same as you did for the floor and rocker panels. It's likely you'll have to removed the body mount bolts on that side and loosen the other side. Find a sturdy spot to put a jack under and use the jack to lift up that side. You only need to lift it enough to give you room to work. If you can't get the replacement part installed in time, you may have to weld in a temporary support until summer comes and you have more time. Without seeing the project, this is about the best advice I can give. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Hey bud I was looking for a video on how to fix the cab bracing? I have a 1978 square body and both front cross bracing is rusted just wanted some extra help. Thanks
Where did you get the replacement panels? Would you say they match the original body panels as far as thickness ,quality , shape and so forth? Thanks for posting!, its about time someone posted a how to video for this body style.
hey, great vids. im restoring my 79 k20. was a little confused on how to remove rusted cab floor supports. are they just held in by spot welds? and approx how many welds r there on each side. thanks
+Chris Swarts Yes, they are held in with spot welds. As far as the number of spot welds, that depends on with floor brace you are trying to replace. But plan on 20+ welds to drill out.
******To anyone who needs these parts. www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.aspx?Page=12 11(inner rocker panel),4 LH and 5 RH are the cab floor panels, and 6 are the kick panels. these are what he has in his videos.***** you get the outer rockers here...www.brotherstrucks.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RPO8700 ****
I've just bought a used Millermatic 130 XP at an automotive swap meet I'm hoping to use it to do the rust repairs on my '78 GMC pickup. It was a complete gamble to buy a welder without being able to try it out first. But I took the chance and so far, it looks like I won. As a complete newcomer to welding I have a few questions. I heard that it's best to weld body panels using a welding tank rather than flux core wire. Is that right? And what's the best way to cut the old metal out?
Jim Ervin Solid wire with shielding gas is better for welding thin material. I would also advise using 0.025" welding wire. For cutting the metal out, the best tools would be a 4.5" angle grinder with a cut-off disc, a spot weld cutter and a body saw. Harbor Freight sells an electric body saw. They sell all these tools in fact. I highly recommend a spot weld cutter but a standard drill bit works too for drilling you the spot welds. You can search my channel. I have a video demo on how to use a spot weld cutter. They are less than $10 from harbor freight. Easier and cleaner than using a drill bit. Thanks for watching!
I love your videos man, this is my spring project. I have a 76 step side and I was wondering where you order your parts from? Also if I dont need to do the floor how hard is it going to be to do the Footwell and inner rockers!!!
We3Kingz I ordered my parts from a few different vendors. LMC Truck, Brothers Truck Parts and Classic Industries. It will be easier if all you need to do is the footwell and inner rockers. It's likely you'll need to remove the outer rocker to fix the inner rocker. But still, it will be easier. Thanks for watching!
im a little confused about how to get the rusted cab floor supports out. i have a 79 k20 im restoring. is there just spot welds holding it in? and how many?
+Chris Swarts Yes, the cab floor supports are spot welded in. As for the number of spot welds, it depends on which floor support you are replacing, but count on 20+ spot welds.
man your truck is really bad for a Texas truck. i live 10 miles out of Dallas and rarely see that much rust from down here. was the truck from up north at on point?
It's possible. It's a non-AC truck. That's not saying a whole lot though. A lot of vehicles of this vintage did not come from the factory with AC. It's my understanding that it was a pretty expensive option. If I can find someone with a CarFax account, I may trace the title back.
***** thanks for the reply, i am looking in to a c10 but the rust repair is concerning to me I've never done more than cosmetic body work. and thanks for all the c10 videos it really help me understand what i may be getting in to.
I was 23 with no UA-cam to guide me. The first time I did one. Boy was that a learning curve.
Hey, This is a very highly detailed rust repair video, probably the BEST . I highly recommend it to any DIY.
Thank you for putting this series on UA-cam. I thought my cab was too far gone to be worth it. Seeing how great yours looks now is really getting me into taking this thing on myself.
You're welcome!! Thank you for watching!
Awesome! Rust repair seems overwhelming at first, but if you go slow and take your time, it's really not that bad. If both sides are rusted out like my truck, only repair one side at a time. The other side can be used as a visual reference and to extract measurements from. Thanks for watching! Best of luck!
well done yes these trucks are great and user friendly, ive had 20 of them much needed video.great vid
Thank you!! I more confidently tackled my floors and rocker. I don’t have the time necessarily to replace as much as you. Kick panels were okay enough, and I did get inner rockers, but they weren’t gonna cover enough to replace. I cut them out and just installed outer. I like the idea of not having trapped water between inner and outer rocker. It’s still solid, and all sealed. Anyways, some may not like it, but it’s solid.
I bought my panels through Brothers Trucks and Summit Racing. However, all the panels were manufactured by Goodmark... and you can buy directly from them.
They match pretty well. The thickness is exactly the same as factory. However, the stampings are not factory perfect. Particularly the kick panel patches. Inner rocker panels were a little off too. Floor pans and outer rockers fit pretty well.
Good luck with your project!
awesome video!!! thanks man we'll explained
Mine is a 77 K5. THANK YOU FOR POSTING. I am newbie trying to get my truck ready for winter. BLESS YOU!
You're welcome! Thank you for watching!
My first p/u truck was a 1977 C-10 Chevy. Bought it off the local Chevy used car lot.. Still within the 77' model year. It only had 3,000mi on on the odometer & 9mo left on the factory warranty..Guy traded in early..His wife had given him a bundle of joy. Pick up trucks not being family oriented transportation, his wife insisted on a change in vehicle..
Only thing I didn't care for was the anemic 305ci engine..Other wise great truck..
like everyone else, thank you so much for these videos. well made and detailed to the point of each area.
awesome
gonna be watching all of these
Oh boy, lots of work, can't wait to see the rest of the show
gReG sKi Thank you for watching!
great video i have a 74 short bed stepside and i plan on watching your whole series of videos
Hey Mike really appreciate the info and u getin right back to me so quickly ,your information is right on point. I'll try drilling out the welds on the support today and see what happens. thank you for your help and your time..
+BIG EVIL You're welcome!
Great video
I got my floor pans from LMC truck. havent got them in yet but they look like they are going to fit good. Maybe a little thinner metal tho.
great job man! you helped out alot of people, including myself. thank you!
Jacob Ortega Thank you and everyone else for watching! Happy to help!
Your videos rock!!thank you for posting!!!
thanks alot man great help how progress
Is it possible to install a inner rocker and floor panel and floor support without removing outer rocker it is perfect
very good video it helped me a lot thanks for making it available ,my problem is I just cut the bad parts of the driver side floor then notices that both supports were shot as well, I have owned a transmission shop or over 15 years retired now, but never done any metal rust repairs like in this case. I cut the little support that was welded to the rocker out but the long support that both run thru the body mount support is what's giving me the problem, can anyone give me some info on how I should cut away the long support, air hammer, hammer chisel grinder. I plow snow with the truck and need to try and get it straight b4 the next storm, to be inspected. Thank u for your time.
+BIG EVIL That part is available as a reproduction replacement part that can be welded in. It's held in with spot welds just like the other panels. Drill them out the same as you did for the floor and rocker panels. It's likely you'll have to removed the body mount bolts on that side and loosen the other side. Find a sturdy spot to put a jack under and use the jack to lift up that side. You only need to lift it enough to give you room to work. If you can't get the replacement part installed in time, you may have to weld in a temporary support until summer comes and you have more time. Without seeing the project, this is about the best advice I can give. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Hey bud I was looking for a video on how to fix the cab bracing? I have a 1978 square body and both front cross bracing is rusted just wanted some extra help. Thanks
Thanks
Where did you get the replacement panels?
Would you say they match the original body panels as far as thickness ,quality , shape and so forth?
Thanks for posting!, its about time someone posted a how to video for this body style.
hey, great vids. im restoring my 79 k20. was a little confused on how to remove rusted cab floor supports. are they just held in by spot welds? and approx how many welds r there on each side. thanks
+Chris Swarts Yes, they are held in with spot welds. As far as the number of spot welds, that depends on with floor brace you are trying to replace. But plan on 20+ welds to drill out.
Since your truck was a manual clutch pedal assembly with the clutch linkage when you pushed in the clutch do they pick up the front of the cab
thanks man
******To anyone who needs these parts. www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/cc/full.aspx?Page=12
11(inner rocker panel),4 LH and 5 RH are the cab floor panels, and 6 are the kick panels. these are what he has in his videos.*****
you get the outer rockers here...www.brotherstrucks.com/prodinfo.asp?number=RPO8700 ****
+Jacob Ortega Thank you for sharing!
How do you even figure out where exactly the roset welds are when they are hidin by the paint
What welder did you use? Would harbor freight 125v welder work?
Hey man noticed u don't brace ur doors?
How many times you take door on and off ? No bracing the cab surely didn’t stay true to its original shape to door!? Correct?
I've just bought a used Millermatic 130 XP at an automotive swap meet I'm hoping to use it to do the rust repairs on my '78 GMC pickup. It was a complete gamble to buy a welder without being able to try it out first. But I took the chance and so far, it looks like I won. As a complete newcomer to welding I have a few questions. I heard that it's best to weld body panels using a welding tank rather than flux core wire. Is that right? And what's the best way to cut the old metal out?
Jim Ervin Solid wire with shielding gas is better for welding thin material. I would also advise using 0.025" welding wire. For cutting the metal out, the best tools would be a 4.5" angle grinder with a cut-off disc, a spot weld cutter and a body saw. Harbor Freight sells an electric body saw. They sell all these tools in fact. I highly recommend a spot weld cutter but a standard drill bit works too for drilling you the spot welds. You can search my channel. I have a video demo on how to use a spot weld cutter. They are less than $10 from harbor freight. Easier and cleaner than using a drill bit. Thanks for watching!
What brand floor pans did you use. I’m getting ready for the same job.
Hi Milkcrate, do you have any idea how much it would cost to just take mine in to have this done?
I love your videos man, this is my spring project. I have a 76 step side and I was wondering where you order your parts from? Also if I dont need to do the floor how hard is it going to be to do the Footwell and inner rockers!!!
We3Kingz I ordered my parts from a few different vendors. LMC Truck, Brothers Truck Parts and Classic Industries. It will be easier if all you need to do is the footwell and inner rockers. It's likely you'll need to remove the outer rocker to fix the inner rocker. But still, it will be easier. Thanks for watching!
im a little confused about how to get the rusted cab floor supports out. i have a 79 k20 im restoring. is there just spot welds holding it in? and how many?
+Chris Swarts Yes, the cab floor supports are spot welded in. As for the number of spot welds, it depends on which floor support you are replacing, but count on 20+ spot welds.
👍
is it necessary to brace the cab before cutting?
+Luis Garcia depends on how bad the rust is. It's never a bad idea to brace the cab before you start cutting though
+milkcrate82
nice. thank you for your videos. very nice truck. I like how you explain every process
***** what type of welder do u use?
Millermatic 135 MIG with 75/25 mix shielding gas
man your truck is really bad for a Texas truck. i live 10 miles out of Dallas and rarely see that much rust from down here. was the truck from up north at on point?
It's possible. It's a non-AC truck. That's not saying a whole lot though. A lot of vehicles of this vintage did not come from the factory with AC. It's my understanding that it was a pretty expensive option. If I can find someone with a CarFax account, I may trace the title back.
***** thanks for the reply, i am looking in to a c10 but the rust repair is concerning to me I've never done more than cosmetic body work. and thanks for all the c10 videos it really help me understand what i may be getting in to.
86gtforme No problem!
Seems like a lot of work It's still a Rusty Cab!
What ever happened to buying whole Rust Free Truck or Cab!!
Obama is that you?