How was it made? Japanese hikihaku obi | V&A
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- Опубліковано 5 кві 2021
- Nishijin-ori textiles are known for their exquisite detail, and have been made in the Nishijin area of Kyoto, Japan for over 1,200 years.
Follow the intricate process involved in creating obi (the sash worn with traditional Japanese clothing), using a specialised technique called hikihaku - weaving with precious metallic thread.
From the making of the thread itself, to the weaving on the loom, watch as three obi are made in the workshops of Kondaya Genbei - one from silver foil, one from mother of pearl, and one from the semi-precious stone, lapis lazuli.
Processes:
Silver foil obi: 1:26
Mother of pearl obi: 4:17
Lapis lazuli obi: 6:35
Find out more in our Japan Collection: www.vam.ac.uk/collections/japan
Read more in our book 'Kimono: Kyoto to Catwalk': www.vam.ac.uk/shop/kimono-kyo...
It's amazing to me that someone looked at a hard material like mother of pearl and thought of a way to weave it into a fabric.
If there is a will, then there is a way.
That doesn’t seem too crazy to me, I mean look at some of the stuff humans do, we burn plants and inhale the smoke, a substance that will cause us to suffocate. For the longest time smoke = bad in nature, yet we burn something on purpose and inhale it. There’s a million other things like this in society that just make you wonder how the hell anyone ever discovered them
@@giusepperesponte8077 Yeah, like religion. Amirite?
Badum Tss!
Yes. Here in NZ paua shells are often found on the beach and used as ashtrays!
Maori artists use paua inlays in whakairo/Maori carving often as the shimmering iridescence of eyes in figure carving of pou etc. Modern Maori artists like Michael Parekowhai also in some installation sculptural pieces. '10 guitars' etc.
yes, paua is beautiful
The Mother of Pearl obi looks as though someone has reached up into the night sky, acquired a handful of cosmic dust and lovingly crafted the history of time itself into this ancient art form. Stunning.
Your comment is poetic, somehow
A little bit of NZ beach shimmering on a Japanese cultural treasure.
At least they didn't turn it into an ashtray! Like many Kiwi NZrs do.
Check out Whakairo and Paua shell's use as iridescent eyes in Maori Pou figure carvings etc. Also it's use in Michael Parekowhai's sculpture installations like '10 guitars'.
@@rickh3714 check out Mabe Pearl, which are half spherical pears that grew in these mother of pearls
@@myIGbin24h
I've seen one or two natural ones that were almost semi-spherical once. Here Paua/abalone contents are seen more as a food resource. They are made into fritters and sold with fish and chips! Don't look appetising but taste great. Dark grey green inside.
@@rickh3714 they are so pretty, another type of mother pearl that I love is the golden South Sea pearl, it's like 24 karat gold and the most expensive type of pearl. It's she'll has the same exact color. I also love the windowpane oyster (capiz), I have a lantern made from one.
Maybe the V&A could setup and apprenticeship program with an embroidery, fashionm and or art school to keep this
craft alive.
Yeah (✷‿✷)
Sarrou is right. If the demand was higher, and a living was possible to be made, there'd be a lot of young people wanting to learn. But we're already all destitute enough as it is
The V&A is a western museum. It’s up to the Japanese to preserve their own culture.
Besides, this is proprietary technique belonging to a firm. What you propose is a rats nest of legal and cultural nightmare.
@@elizabethclaiborne6461 A nightmare would be the skill became forever extinct.
@@ms.chuisin7727 Elizabeth's reply was right. This is an intellectual and a cultural property beyond Victoria and Albert Museum's reach. Further, museums in the UK are being recently called out for stealing cultural properties from all over the world. The suggestion may also be perceived as such. this is highly controversial and what you may perceived is right, may not be right all the time and in all contexts. Recently, a study conducted on Philippine indigenous people genome by a Swedish university was called out for bioethics concerns, given the lack of ethical clearance in the Philippines. The ethical clearance was given bya Swedish institution. The question arose: who should give the ethics clearance? In the scientists point of view, a Swedish clearance is enough but this is not true in all contexts - especially in the context of European power tinkering over an Oriental country.
This is extraordinary, like a fairy tale:
"Make me an obi from silver foil!"
"Sure, how many do you want?"
"Now make me an obi from cloth of gold!"
"No problem at all, your Majesty".
"I want an obi made of abalone shell thread!"
"Nothing is impossible!"
"Now I want an obi made of rock!"
"What kind of rock?"
"Lapis lazuli, from Afghanistan."
"Bring us the rock, and leave the rest to us".
Lapis ? I thought you were joking ! Beautiful
Hungarian folk tales
i mean, have you read Grimm's Cinderella?
So that's why there are no weavers left: they all got to marry princesses!
@@justjane2070 lapis is the vivid blue cloth made and displayed at the end of video.
I’m so amazed at this stunning beauty and shocked as a young Japanese.
I’ve been aware that Japanese craftsmanship is in a crisis because of lack of successors and there’s a need to preserve it, but I haven't done anything yet. Artisans are so elderly that there’s no time to stay and observe.
Thanks to lots of comments. That reminds me of the importance of culture and any actions!
try to find a master and learn one of these arts; the elders need the younger people to keep these traditions alive!
Holy heavens, the lapis lazuli peonies obi belt look like a masterpiece of a high order of art. So, bright blue and I could stare at it for a long time contemplating just about anything.
Same! It's sooo beautiful
I don't even like blue color in my clothing, smh
Who ever did the sound design and editing for this episode needs to be nominated for something, this was amazing to listen to and the music/sound beautifully complemented the subject art and artists.
had same thought! the music and editing adds so much to this.
There was outstanding beautify shown in this video. I felt deeply moved by the craftsmanship demonstrated in the weaving of precious metals and shells. I also feel sad that in the future there this ancient skill is going to dissappear.
Hopefully this video helps inspire someone to learn these skills before they disappear!
This actually made me weep. I don’t really understand why this made me feel like I do. It’s extremely moving what they’re doing and how they’re doing it in with the passion and love and knowledge and time blood sweat and tears it took to learn and achieve what they have. Lapis lazuli is my absolute favorite stone in the whole world. And to find that being used to make such a beautiful creation wow.
I also wept for the beauty, but also the possibility of such extraordinary innovation being lost to the ages. 😥
@@cindywells9119 Agree. Should not get lost. Amaized at the peace in doing.
How extraordinary that I reacted the same way especially to the lapis. Just astoundingly beautiful and beautiful people creating these works of art.
You're not the only one. They're so breathtakingly beautiful that I cried watching this video.
Those masterpieces last in time but we need more people like those artists to continue creating. All those techniques should be protected and inherited.
Masterpieces is the best description. Truly wonderful pieces of art.
Proving once again where there's a will, there's a way, the Japanese people never cease to amaze. I'm so very impressed with this video and the Craftsmen in it. I can only pray that someone will find the way to preserve this magnificent art.
Thank you to everyone involved in this presentation.
The colours are ridiculous! Im stunned. This is a skill that needs to be reborn.
Absolutely stunning, I had no idea art like this existed. Heartbreaking that it’s gonna die with the artists.
the japanese are taking weaving to the highest level. amazing!
I’ve always admired how the Japanese don’t just pump out products for the money, quality for the customer always comes first, they even go out of the way to make things aesthetically pleasing.
That's not true all of the time, but in this instance it certainly is
This art form must never be lost. It is far too precious.
I really hope the youth of Japan takes an interest in these beautiful craftsmenships and revives them little by little... It would be a shame for such skills to die with their last detentors
@Lestat Luka hmmmm that's ignoring the fact that cruelty free alternatives are a thing... The youth in general is much more inclined on the survival side (with the effed up economy) than the long term side to save these dying skills .
@Lestat Luka you have never privileged economy over ethics? ... You must be kidding right... And the lack of labour force is pretty much what will strain the economy and stretch everyone thin, no offense but the Japanese society isn't ready to give up it's homogeneity to save itself... Although I hope it does eventually, as an outsider all I wish is that no one suffers through the tribulations befalling this generation
@Lestat Luka this is definitely not the issue LMFAO i am a middle class japanese youth and it’s definitely more of a price thing than ethics. Just like in fast fashion, it’s hard to pay for obi made out of materials like this or even a normal silk obi. Pretty sure mine has no real silk in it at all bc I just couldn’t afford a real silk one. I also think you’re being a little naive… to hope for Japanese ppl to stop making obi/kimono/yukata etc when its our traditional clothing is stupid. People are not regarding wearing kimono and obi in that way, at least not on a large scale like the way you’re saying. I understand not wanting animals to be killed, but you aren’t even considering ethical options. To think we’re gonna give up our tradition and culture is really dumb🤷🏻♀️ If you feel so strongly about this, maybe you should consider ethical obi and kimono making because i’m sure you can find something like that to support, or even start your own business
@Lestat Luka this is the most stupidest reason ever. No one cares for worms.
@Lestat Luka THAT'S your evil villain backstory? I feel like you went a little overboard with the sociopath angle, but the vegan eco-terrorist trope *totally* hasn't ever been done before, so you're probably safe on copyright infringement. Overall I'd give it a perfect 5/7 rating. Can't wait to see the screen adaptation. :)
I've watched a lot of your V&A videos, but this one, was stunningly beautiful and elegant. Good show!
Finding content like this is what makes UA-cam such a great resource. Thank you for posting it.
This is just astounding! The whole process is breathtaking, from the way the threads are cut from paper to the weaving process, it is all so beautiful! The end result is something I would have imagined in paradise! Absolutely fantastic!
I ask the ones scorning the youth of Japan to understand that this is simply not a trade they can learn if they want to survive. Today's society has devolved so as to stress mass-production since that is the only thing many can afford, and so there is no monetary gain (and therefore no ability to afford the cost of living) in taking up a trade such as this.
I am sure many young people would love to learn these time-honored traditional crafts but with the cost of living increasing with each year and so few of the world hoarding much of its wealth (and then using some of it to ensure there are laws and legal-loopholes in place to maintain this status quo) the youth must seek gainful occupation in order to live.
If you wish to take umbrage with someone or something, I would suggest Capitalism as it has become today. In today's society there is no place for great, intricate arts, nor is there a place for someone to follow their passions if they wish to make a living. And that, truly, is something worth your outrage.
Yes, this. :)
Hm these items were never intended for the masses. Someone else suggested it is the rich who have failed in their duty and I'm inclined to agree with them. In lieu of the rich, the people via their government should seek to preserve their traditions no? Chanel is a great model for how to support small traditional artisans while making a profit.
I know rich people who spend their money on the worst arts and fashion. They have no clue what is quality work. It is also a failure of the art market. The amount of rubbish they promote. It makes me disgruntled.
Very eloquently put.
@@MikeyMystery45 Yea only he conflates capitalism (originally known as "Free Trade market") with Corporatism. The greed of the few have affected the many. Free trade is being destroyed by heavy international trade taxes and bb corporate greed. Free Trade was awesome when it was free. That was before regulation after regulation began to be implemented. At first for the wellness of the people, then for great of being sued for the most ridiculous things
I was first teary-eyed over the beauty of the craftsmanship and the dedication of the artisans; and then saddened that the art form is being lost. Where are the apprentices?
In Japan, most apprenticeships last 10 years, and it's a very labor intensive process. Like many dying artforms, the younger generations don't see the strain on the body worth it, especially compared to more glorified jobs.
Where are the buyers? Why aren't wealthy people or haute couture designers, or even world renowned performers (think operas, ballets) investing in these products? If there was a economic interest than apprenticeship would be justified. What good is learning this craft for young people right now? They would have to dedicate years of their life to an activity that would not bring them economic stability.
Utterly exquisite, and tragic that these incredible skills will be lost for ever. These are items of such rare beauty, they are works of art in their own right.
It's almost like a fairy tale. Who thinks to weave stone, metal, and shell into fabric? The results are heavenly! Thank you to the V and A for this presentation!
I agree. It sounds like one of these challenges a heroischen has to master
Incredible work. I hope those skills will be well inherited.
I am amazed by the craftsmanship they put in making from start to end. Its not only the end product but the thread itself is a Masterpiece. Obi is made by legends in their work. Your video has changed my view towards looking clothes now. I can just hope and pray this skill is learn by new generation.
This is truly one of the most amazing things I have every seen! The lapis lazuli textile is astonishingly beautiful!
I am in awe. These people are truly great artists
I want this tradition to go on!!! please preserve this beautiful machinery into production! WOW
The Lapislazuli obi. The unbelievable beauty of it really touched me. Someone needs to found an initiative in Japan and make sure that these crafts are not lost to the world.
I’m speechless. The talent is beyond anything I’ve ever seen!
I have a traditionally made obi which was given to us as a way of thanks by a very old Japanese gentleman we helped out, there's a dichotomy of not wanting to have it always displayed for the risk of damage or stress and a great shame to hide its beauty away. In some ways the empathy of things in Japan for what they are and the people attached to their creation, the sadness of when they're gone has some particular gravitas (and in a not very comforting way, I guess) its melancholy demise will be going out with a level of pride at the peak of its ability.
Now it will end
But it will be the best it has ever been from the time it was made up to this point
These pieces with the beautiful energies that go into their making are exquisite beyond words.
Mindblowing and I love every moment of this film. Waving with lapis lazuli sound incredible. I know silver or gold foils creation process, but how it’s done with hard rock pigment? These Obi’s are so contemporary. Imagine it’s timeless beauty radiating hang on concrete wall in your modern villa as a decorative art element.. gorgeous.. pure..ancient..and ultra trendy..
The lapis Lazuli was breathtaking. The blue on it was amazing!!! Such a beautiful shade.
It brings me tear whenever hearing some cultural techniques/ crafts will be disappeared as no one wants to learn it. 😢
It's not that no one wants to learn, since there's no demand because rich people are busy buying bullshit there's no actual job opportunity. The same happened here in Italy as well (other than the fact that people refuse to let youngs work), now lots of crafts are dead and lost forever.
I had never heard of these weavings before. They are truly beautiful.
Extraordinary... There is still a lot of magic in this world. Thank you. Watching these is my new meditation.
This is amazing and the artistry is mindblowing with the lapis
I realized halfway through that my mouth had been wide open, so astounding was this display of artistry. I then found myself wiping back tears at the lapis lazuli obi.
Thanks I’m speechless. It’s so beautiful. Hope it will never disappear
What a truly beautiful art and amazing use of precious materials! I really hope that this practice doesn’t die along with its masters
Step up young people of Japan, come and learn these precious skills of your heritage to keep it alive! There must be art students that are willing to take up the reigns?
It takes years of dedicated apprenticeship to be able to master these skills. Most young people can't afford to take up a position if they want to have a decent life - cost of living is pretty high in Japan. The Japanese government needs to sponsor/support young people to learn these skills before they disappear with the last of the master craftsmen.
If the ultra-wealthy in this world would spend some of their money on Art like this, instead of the trash they blow it on, maybe there wouldn't only be a handful of 70+ year olds keeping a 1,200 year old tradition alive.
The ultra wealthy refuse to fulfill their roles as patrons of the arts. Those tech wives won’t even go buy couture, which is their duty, it supports thousands of craftspeople at a level like these weavers. Worst people to be rich, they won’t fulfill their duty to society or pay their taxes.
Japan's ultra-wealthy prefer to invest in overfishing.
@@elizabethclaiborne6461 Agreed but what is to be done? Since the rich are disinterested, time for the people to honour their traditions by investing. Japan has a declining birth rate and these artisans are old. No amount of filming and asking questions can replace the feel of a hand, so I fear this skill will pass like so many have in the past. Sad.
If I was rich, I would buy all of those pieces of art. ☺💖
We could crowd fund the purchase of several of these or just the fabric and repopularise it.
What a loss it will be that there is no one to carry on the tradition of making these exquisite works of art. Thank you for sharing this with us. Blessings to all👌
Once these Masters are gone, I fear these amazing skills and breathtaking fabrics will be too. It saddens me greatly.
Simply incredible craftsmanship. That Mother of Pearl work is nothing short of pure perfection.
This is so beautiful. It was wonderful for my soul to watch this. Thank you so much!
This fabulous art & technical skill cannot be lost , surely ??
One of the most amazingly beautiful crafts I’ve ever seen in my life! ❤
I have a deep fascination for Japanese art, however, the use these precious materials in fabric design, are works of sheer beauty. Creation of the design, leaves me near speechless, and close to tears for the gift of laying my gaze upon them.
A heartfelt, Thank You, goes out to whomever posted this piece.
Stunningly beautiful. How soul-satisfying it must be to create such a work of art.
Absolutely amazing, I appreciate how much care and technique goes in to each step. It’s a very beautiful process.
Mind officially blown. The dedication to your craft to do this…amazing.
Wow! Wow! This is amazing. These fabrics are exquisite. They are precious in a way that makes modern day haut couture fabrics look almost common place. Hopefully the Japanese government will do all that they can to ensure this amazing tradition does not die put.
Stunningly beautiful Obi. Any person can realise the Craftsmanship of the rarest Obi Arts.
These men I presume have to be very special breed. The patients steadiness, good eye, commitment and the vision of the finished piece of artistry. They have to be commended.
I love that there are still masters who keep these art traditions alive. So beautiful and humbling to see this; these artists are like alchemists. But I also wanted to cry; there are so few of these masters left. I will grieve to see this art completely die out; I hope someone will apprentice with these artists, and learn to maintain the looms.
I bet it looks even a 100x more beautiful in real life, the textures and colours... What a dream
If only I could have enough money. I wouldn't mind paying for such masterpieces. These wonderful artisans deserve to be recognized and be supported.
I ha md to watch this again because it was so stunning! I truly hope the world doesn't lose this skill set.
I have never seen something so beautiful the lapis lazuli one was so beautiful.
out of world beauty!!!! thank you for showing this beautiful video!
I really hope this art and its craft are preserved. What beauty. It holds such power.
How extraordinary !! was absolutely fascinated -- that loom looks totally daunting - the textiles awesome, hard to imagine they make thread from such materials, thankyou
This is why you show these crafts to the word and maybe someone will have a true desire to learn how to do it!
There is something so deep and calming in traditional Japanese art.
Amazing video, thanks for showing us this art form, I've never heard of it. I hope it will be preserved and won't get lost, world deserves more of this.
They are the guardians and keepers of a wonderful art. Kudos to everyone in that shop where art is preserved :) many blessings for keeping it alive :)
THIS IS MARACULOUS.To absorb the perfection these people must attain- seems insurmountable to me .
Beautiful art and craftsmanship
Wow, this kind of art is so moving. I thought art can no longer move your soul but it turns out it’s just the commercialized modern art but this is a true example of craftsmanship and beauty.
My goodness. Such beauty but such a process. Artists all.
Just in awe over all the beauty these skillful hands can produce.
This is the most beautiful thing I've seen!
Absolute beauty. I do hope Japan starts making moves to form maybe state sponsored aprenticeships to prevent these skills from dying out.
Absolutely stunning!! Wow that blue is just mesmerizing
What an amazing art. This man is wonderful!
The whole video I was overwhelmed by the contrary feelings of admiration and sadness. Admiration for the dedication of the crafters to this art and sadness because this will be lost. I hope, I really hope that we can stop and appreciate all the old traditions and crafts before more of them disapear around the world U_U
7:27 So wonderful we have one in our museum collection. It's a miracle!
Such beautiful pieces 👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
thank you for this lovely video
We are so busy trying to make a livable wage, many creative artists cannot attain mastery of their craft.
Incredibly Gorgeous~Breath Taking!
These are amazingly beautiful Works of Art that depict the ingenuity of man! It is unfortunate that the Japanese Government or Japanese Art Foundations can not create some sort of a paid apprenticeship program to teach all the necessary skills, including the maintenance of the looms, in order to preserve & maintain these uniquely intricate techniques. I would think, maintaining these century ok’d cultural skills would be a very high priority - for any Government, but especially for the Japanese, because of their reverence for nature & beauty!
Thank you to the V&A Museum! This was a wonderful video!! But it was especially sad to witness a skill that will vanish within the next 10 years!!
Truly brilliant and beyond beautiful.
Only the Japanese could produce something this sublime.
That is a work of love and a thing of beauty.
I’m filled with wonder. Thank you.
Oh my!! I can only imagine how glorious these would be irl! 😍
can you imagine how much effort is needed for these foils, pearls, lapis to be applied on the paper and cut into thin strips, then weaved into threads and weaved into a piece of OBI. Painstakingly!
Quite a dedicated process. The mother of pearl threads look like labradorite in the light...stunning.
Ancient craft is fading with the passing of the creators...the detail is exquisite.
Un travail artisanal sublime. Merci beaucoup pour ce partage.
How fantastic...how beautiful!
Amazing use of materials and craftsmanship oh wow o_o
This is the most beautiful thing ever❤
Beyond incredible!
I have no words except WOW !
Stunning.
So mesmerizing.