Thanks for your video it was very helpful. You said you lived in a cold area and need to drain your system after a shower when it's extremely cold outside. Are you draining it from the little drain port they sometimes have on there or you actually draining both the hot and cold lines into a bucket or something on those nights?
I've had the manual version if this heater for five years. I never drain it unless I turn the heat of at the cabin. Freezing has never been a problem for me and I'm in northern Michigan. They do install a baffle on the vent to help prevent cold drafting into the heater. Never had a issue solid units. I highly recommend, just de scale it yearly.
Awesome experience. I think mainly it's a warranty deal so that the maker doesn't have to deal with people leaving them frozen full of water and then come back for a warranty. The temp indicator on it never shows anything close to outside temps so I'm sure it isn't an issue, but I do try to disconnect it when cold just to be on the safe side. I'm sure it won't freeze, but I also tend to play it safe. And yes, descale for sure. Not much of an issue for me as I use rain water but it doesn't hurt to pump a little solution through it from time to time. Thanks for the comment.
You are awesome! Thank you so much for this video. Would you be keen to the idea of doing another video of showing below the tank and then the outside hook up? I am pretty visual learner so it would be extremely helpful. TIA and keep on doing these. It is very very helpful.
I think I did a run-down of my system at some point, which is pretty unconventional. I don't know if it would be of much help in this regard as the "house plumbing" is a separate issue altogether. Cold line in, hot out, and have some way to drain it, at least that's what the manufacturer recommends. I've run the gas line straight through the wall to hook up to a small regulator on a barbecue tank again, not typical but gets the job done for me.
I mean, I could definitely do another vid on it, but I'm trying to get the angle of how it should go and what to present. In any case, everything is frozen right now, so I won't be doing it this week.
Costco sells both 50 & 100 pound propane tanks at the best ‘new’ price I have found, They also sell the propane for the best price in most areas in North America.
Was thinking about buying this unit for my house. I’m curious how’s it holding up for you?I have a family of 5 so I was curious how it holds up to continuous use?thank you for the great review
I have an odd application for this I want to put it in a crawl space under the house, venting it out the wall under my deck. I guess this won't work if it has to be powered on constantly. I can do electricity because my panel won't take that power. I really only can do propane and if I go with a regular hot water tank I can only do 30 gallons to fit in crawl space. Thoughts?
I guess it could technically work, but what happens when you need to clean it or service it in any kind of way? Water heaters tend to always be in accessible locations. And you can set the water temp on this and the readout is helpful when using low-flow faucets. It really doesn't take up any space. It's like a big I-phone stuck to the wall.
I'm debating between this indoor unit and the outdoor. If I go with this indoor I'll need to add some pump to it for water pressure. I'm off grid and water will be stored in a tote or tank. What will I need as part of the installation for maintaining water pressure? Just a pump? A pressure tank? 12 volt?
you need a way to supply pressure to the unit. It's been a while but if memory serves it's 20ft of water column. So a 20+ ft water tower or a pump. I use a 1/3 HP unit and a normal pressure tank at 30-50psi... I think,, maybe it's 40-60. There are other units out there that run of flow only and you don't need pressure to use them. The flow rate through the unit also needs to be over 0.7gpm or it won't turn on, so if you're mixing cold and hot, your hot line has to have that flow rate by itself. I mostly don't mix and just use hot or cold and a low-flow shower head but when I do use both I have to be careful to keep the cold side choked back enough so that the hot water doesn't start running cold.
@@offgridgecko ok. Is there any way to prevent cold winter air from entering into my interior space once I install a horizontal pipe through the wall to exhaust fumes? Seems like a weak link in the design rather than sending it through the attic.
Not really. Every house has "holes" in the insulation though. I have a bunch of great big windows. But a 6in hole isn't going to kill anything, long as it's sealed on the inside and outside. Mine came with a skirt that makes a hollow cavity for the pipe to go through so it can't set the walls on fire. There should be some dead airspace between the pipe and wherever it penetrates.
@@bobear1523 "NEED"? I dunno. The tank is just so your pump isn't constantly running whenever you turn on a faucet. They make tanks specifically for this. Water pump will have a relay on it that's activated by pressure in the line. I would suggest finding a place that specializes in water pumps for wells and such, they will hook you up and they have the know-how. I'm not a professional plumber.
Great video and description. I just picked up this exact unit for our primitive off-grid cabin. I too am only using a 20lb propane tank to run our Unique propane cooktop and soon, this water heater. We are very much looking forward to having hot water for our showers and kitchen sink. We will have a 50gal water tank in our loft and Shur-flo water pump...using pex and sharkbite fittings. Do you have a video on the install? Or a video showing the lines/fittings/outside exhaust? Im not sure if I should try to install this on the wall between our shower stall and composting toilet or install it up in the loft so it's out of the way. Any thought on that? Thank you for your time.
the one I got came with a very short exhaust vent and needs to be mounted to an exterior wall unless you want to run a lot of pipe. Not sure if that's an issue for you or not, and some kits come with no venting at all, just the unit. Generally prolly best to keep it central to the things it's meant to run also so the pipe has short runs. I just put sharkbite fittings on mine and snapped in the pex, I also installed a valve on each pipe coming out in case I need to disconnect it and leave the rest of my stuff in place. You also need a power plug close by unless you want to run an extension.
@@offgridgecko Sounds good. We got the 2 thimbles, 90 degree bend, and like a 12"-16" pipe with ours...same as yours, I believe. I will plan on putting the valves in. Thank you for the reply. Take care.
Hello! I just got a tiny house in the county. I have well water and this is the water heater I want. I was going to ask if that is what you have and is it ok to use the well water with this water heater. I enjoyed your video and so so so glad I came across it! Look forward to hearing from you. Thanks.
Should work fine if your water needs are low and you can provide the pressure. My pump takes water from above ground rain tanks, but essentially the same as a well pump system, and it maintains 30-50psi, which is more than enough to keep the heater supplied. I think anything over 20psi will work, and the hot water has to flow at like 0.8gpms for it to start running. Just make sure you drain it on cold nights. We're getting some frosty weather in tonight (May?) so I just finished draining mine just in case. The only thing about well water is the calcium content, which will clog the little coils inside over time, but there are instructions for keeping it clean. Not sure what you have in place for a softener. The process includes washing the coil with ...vinegar? something like that. Might pay to run a dedicated line for cleaning cycles.
Thank you for replying back! I really have no idea what I have gotten myself into do I! It’s an old house with nothing that works. So I am learning as I install new EVERYTHING. I have never had well water either. I am going to do some digging and see if I can’t figure a way to filter out the calcium. Maybe I’ll just have to come to you with my questions. You seem to know a lot and what your doing!
@@meggieolvera You learn by doing. Don't doubt yourself. If you can, try to meet some local construction workers (they hang around bars), watch YT vids and read about fixing stuff or building homes. Tiny life seems to follow that path anyway, so you may as well dig in. It's super intimidating but take it one step at a time. I knew very little about construction when I broke ground to build my own house. I still don't know all that much, just what was needed to get the job done.
Thanks for your video.I had a question about how high your homestead is. You mentioned something about being on a mountain or an area that slightly colder or higher than your surrounding area.. I have the same issue. I have heard these units don't like to be above 2000 ft are you lower than that or if you have any problems if you are above. Thanks
Thanks for watching. I'm at about 950 I think, in the Ozarks. Microclimates are tricky. I think it has more to do with the shape of the terrain. 1/2 a mile in any direction is milder temp swings in the bottoms of the hills because of woods and water I would guess. I cleared about an acre up top though so there isn't much between me and the sky on rocky terrain, which makes things a little more fickle in terms of weather. I don't think there is any hard limit you can go by really. Kinda like the inner city being a touch warmer than the surrounding burbs.
Yes. I don't remember the size off the top of my head but it's one of the little ones, bout the same size as a camp stove regulator. I went to the propane store with the manual and had them order one for me.
What did you do for pressure relief valve? Ecco temp sells what looked like the standard valve for a regular HW tank but not showing one for the i12. Trying to install mine now but don't have pressure relief valve so might have to wait couple more days
I have a pop-off valve for the whole system that jets to the outside of the house if it overpressures. I don't think I have anything on the tank itself, I can't remember.
What propane connection are you using. I just bought the unit and want to know if a general propane line with regulator- like grill use- is correct or another regulator is needed. I can't find info anywhere on the gas install. I am using a portable propane tank. THANKS
I use a 20lb tank and a little regulator attached to the tank. That stuff is outside and feeds into the house through one of those yellow bendy hoses. I don't remember the psig for the regulator off the top of my head, there is an "inches of water colum" in the manual that you can convert to psig. You only need a small regulator similar to the ones that come with a bbq, but I'd go with something that doesn't have a knob on it and is pre-set. Picked one up from a propane retailer. NOTE: I'm not subject to any kind of housing codes where I live, if you are then more work might be required. I also plan on upping to a 40-50lb tank one of these days. Maybe in the spring I'll get a pair of them. I've started a collection of propane bottles around here just so that I always have a spare if one of them runs dry, plus extra to use for cooking and other outdoor activities.
Thanks for watching. The inlet was a little screwy. I used a tank penetration and hooked the lines to that on either side of the wall. From there flexible pipe runs to the filter and then a check valve. I also have a pressure release on the high pressure side yes. It has it's own outlet, basically just a pipe. The other outlet is a standard hydrant. 12" I think to drain it quite a way into the house.
Sorry, I thought this was about another vid. All the stuff I mentioned was for the off-grid water supply. I ran pex connectors to the unit and a gas line straight thru the wall for the water heater itself.
@@offgridgecko ok that makes sense lol. I just installed mine yesterday in our skoolie conversion, I wasn't sure if I need a relief valve in the system. I ran the cold water in and the hot out with a PEX check valve. But no pressure relief valve.
@@jasontaylor3318 I'm not sure of your whole installation. There should be a pressure relief somewhere. My setup is tank/pump and there is a valve that shuts off water to the rest of the house. Pressure relief is behind that valve because that is where it will overload if the pump goes on the fritz. Pressure elsewhere would never go over 50 and my valve pops at 75 I think. If you are using city water, there should be something in place already, but most of the time you have a constant 20-40psi so it isn't a bother for most people. I've never seen city water pressure cause a problem. If you are off-grid, just make sure that wherever your pressure is coming from that there is a safety in there sometimes. You can tee off any existing connection on the HP side pop a valve in there if needed. Draining was the main concern on my install. How do you like it so far? Is it going to work for you?
So Marty are you saying you don't have anything on your water inlet line nor a pressure regulator on your hot water outlet line? or an air relief valve on the hot side either? in our manual its page 13 and there is a lot of piping it seems you didn't use yet it works!!!!!!! I'm excited to here that.
I have shutoff valves on the two lines for cold weather. My drain system is through the house, so I close the main gate from the pump and tank, then drain, etc. The hot side...basically nothing special. Depends on what you have. If using well water, you might want to have some way to flush vinegar through the on occasion to clean it out. All it needs to work is 20psi and 0.8 gallons per minute. Mine works at 0.7 but better to have more so you aren't splitting hairs. My cold line is restricted to the shower to ensure that I'm always getting enough flow to the heater, even if hot and cold are both wide open.
how does the 90 degree elbow connect to the top of the water heater? There are holes in the exhaust pipe on top of the water heater and holes on the 90 degree elbow below the butterfly valve. I assume it would connect with screws but they were not provided and i see no instruction or diagram that shows how it connects PLEASE HELP ASAP!!! THANKS
My kit had three little screws for connecting to the top of the unit (with one) and the wall thimble (with 2 there). The screw doesn't really do all that much since everything is pretty secure if you go straight into a wall, but I would say run down to the hardware store and get some sheet metal screws. They should work just fine as long as they are big enough. Don't think that it needs to be an air-tight fit either, they are just there to hold the tubes together, and the draft will pull the hot gasses outside, just like a stove pipe.
I bought one of these and it lasted for three uses and quit working(started gushing water out of the bottom). Eccotemp refused to honor the warranty by repair or replace .Customer service was bad. So, I just bought a cheap chinese made one off ebay and it has lasted me for for four years and counting now.
I don't remember what the instructions say, but I drain it when the predicted low is below 40F, about 4C. I'm exposed on my hill so the microclimate is always more extreme than the forecast. And I'm cautious with this machine.
TBH I haven't really checked. If it's running for a long time it will. There's a tube of flashing it runs through to keep it from directly contacting the walls.
Does your Eccotemp i12 water heater power down shortly after use? Mine shuts down a few minutes after use (and after the fan has stopped), and I have to press the power button again if I want more hot water. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
@@offgridgecko In your video, you turn on the power at 0:48 (display lights up) and about 5 minutes later (at 5:43), it shuts down. At that point, it will not produce hot water unless you press the power button again.
No idea. I assume you tried unplugging it and starting it back up. The little red power light should be shining if power is connected. Once I touch that, the temperature displays on the screen.
You also might want to check your gas to make sure it's full (if you are running off a propane tank like me). You comment is a little vague but if you elaborate a bit then I'm more than happy to try and help. I might not find a solution, but I'll look with you and see what I can dig up.
You basically open up the lines going to it and then turn a little knob behind the cold water inlet that will let air into the system. Takes a couple minutes for it to empty itself.
ticking like a clock. Running rain water through it, very little problems. I don't even know how long I've had it at this point. Just wish it had some kind of meter on it or maybe on my bottles where I could gauge how much propane was left, specially in the winter time.
@@chrislewis9345 Cool. It makes a nice little middle-ground unit. Not good for gravity fed but not quite enough prolly for a modern house is the US. If you have hard water or well water I def reccomend seeing how to run some vinegar through it at some point to clean out any scale buildup in the coils.
Good Job on video and it helped me out thanks , honest is hard to come nowadays.
Sometimes it comes across as a little too honest. thank you for your kind words and glad it was helpful for you
Thanks for your video it was very helpful. You said you lived in a cold area and need to drain your system after a shower when it's extremely cold outside. Are you draining it from the little drain port they sometimes have on there or you actually draining both the hot and cold lines into a bucket or something on those nights?
I just bought this same model… I think I’m going to like it very much
would love to hear how it is working for you and any insights you might want to share
How is it working
I've had the manual version if this heater for five years. I never drain it unless I turn the heat of at the cabin. Freezing has never been a problem for me and I'm in northern Michigan. They do install a baffle on the vent to help prevent cold drafting into the heater. Never had a issue solid units. I highly recommend, just de scale it yearly.
Awesome experience. I think mainly it's a warranty deal so that the maker doesn't have to deal with people leaving them frozen full of water and then come back for a warranty. The temp indicator on it never shows anything close to outside temps so I'm sure it isn't an issue, but I do try to disconnect it when cold just to be on the safe side. I'm sure it won't freeze, but I also tend to play it safe. And yes, descale for sure. Not much of an issue for me as I use rain water but it doesn't hurt to pump a little solution through it from time to time. Thanks for the comment.
You are awesome! Thank you so much for this video. Would you be keen to the idea of doing another video of showing below the tank and then the outside hook up? I am pretty visual learner so it would be extremely helpful. TIA and keep on doing these. It is very very helpful.
I think I did a run-down of my system at some point, which is pretty unconventional. I don't know if it would be of much help in this regard as the "house plumbing" is a separate issue altogether. Cold line in, hot out, and have some way to drain it, at least that's what the manufacturer recommends. I've run the gas line straight through the wall to hook up to a small regulator on a barbecue tank again, not typical but gets the job done for me.
I mean, I could definitely do another vid on it, but I'm trying to get the angle of how it should go and what to present. In any case, everything is frozen right now, so I won't be doing it this week.
Costco sells both 50 & 100 pound propane tanks at the best ‘new’ price I have found, They also sell the propane for the best price in most areas in North America.
Was thinking about buying this unit for my house. I’m curious how’s it holding up for you?I have a family of 5 so I was curious how it holds up to continuous use?thank you for the great review
I have an odd application for this I want to put it in a crawl space under the house, venting it out the wall under my deck. I guess this won't work if it has to be powered on constantly. I can do electricity because my panel won't take that power. I really only can do propane and if I go with a regular hot water tank I can only do 30 gallons to fit in crawl space. Thoughts?
I guess it could technically work, but what happens when you need to clean it or service it in any kind of way? Water heaters tend to always be in accessible locations. And you can set the water temp on this and the readout is helpful when using low-flow faucets. It really doesn't take up any space. It's like a big I-phone stuck to the wall.
I'm debating between this indoor unit and the outdoor. If I go with this indoor I'll need to add some pump to it for water pressure. I'm off grid and water will be stored in a tote or tank. What will I need as part of the installation for maintaining water pressure? Just a pump? A pressure tank? 12 volt?
you need a way to supply pressure to the unit. It's been a while but if memory serves it's 20ft of water column. So a 20+ ft water tower or a pump. I use a 1/3 HP unit and a normal pressure tank at 30-50psi... I think,, maybe it's 40-60. There are other units out there that run of flow only and you don't need pressure to use them. The flow rate through the unit also needs to be over 0.7gpm or it won't turn on, so if you're mixing cold and hot, your hot line has to have that flow rate by itself. I mostly don't mix and just use hot or cold and a low-flow shower head but when I do use both I have to be careful to keep the cold side choked back enough so that the hot water doesn't start running cold.
@@offgridgecko ok. Is there any way to prevent cold winter air from entering into my interior space once I install a horizontal pipe through the wall to exhaust fumes? Seems like a weak link in the design rather than sending it through the attic.
@@offgridgecko so, just a suitable small pump and holding tank or does it specifically need to be a pressure tank?
Not really. Every house has "holes" in the insulation though. I have a bunch of great big windows. But a 6in hole isn't going to kill anything, long as it's sealed on the inside and outside. Mine came with a skirt that makes a hollow cavity for the pipe to go through so it can't set the walls on fire. There should be some dead airspace between the pipe and wherever it penetrates.
@@bobear1523 "NEED"? I dunno. The tank is just so your pump isn't constantly running whenever you turn on a faucet. They make tanks specifically for this. Water pump will have a relay on it that's activated by pressure in the line. I would suggest finding a place that specializes in water pumps for wells and such, they will hook you up and they have the know-how. I'm not a professional plumber.
Great video and description. I just picked up this exact unit for our primitive off-grid cabin. I too am only using a 20lb propane tank to run our Unique propane cooktop and soon, this water heater. We are very much looking forward to having hot water for our showers and kitchen sink. We will have a 50gal water tank in our loft and Shur-flo water pump...using pex and sharkbite fittings. Do you have a video on the install? Or a video showing the lines/fittings/outside exhaust? Im not sure if I should try to install this on the wall between our shower stall and composting toilet or install it up in the loft so it's out of the way. Any thought on that? Thank you for your time.
the one I got came with a very short exhaust vent and needs to be mounted to an exterior wall unless you want to run a lot of pipe. Not sure if that's an issue for you or not, and some kits come with no venting at all, just the unit. Generally prolly best to keep it central to the things it's meant to run also so the pipe has short runs. I just put sharkbite fittings on mine and snapped in the pex, I also installed a valve on each pipe coming out in case I need to disconnect it and leave the rest of my stuff in place. You also need a power plug close by unless you want to run an extension.
@@offgridgecko Sounds good. We got the 2 thimbles, 90 degree bend, and like a 12"-16" pipe with ours...same as yours, I believe. I will plan on putting the valves in. Thank you for the reply. Take care.
We just installed this same model, but can’t get hot water? It’s showing at 0 GPM even though we are getting water. Any tips?
Really eccotemp hasn't worked for me either time twice
Hello! I just got a tiny house in the county. I have well water and this is the water heater I want. I was going to ask if that is what you have and is it ok to use the well water with this water heater. I enjoyed your video and so so so glad I came across it! Look forward to hearing from you. Thanks.
Should work fine if your water needs are low and you can provide the pressure. My pump takes water from above ground rain tanks, but essentially the same as a well pump system, and it maintains 30-50psi, which is more than enough to keep the heater supplied. I think anything over 20psi will work, and the hot water has to flow at like 0.8gpms for it to start running. Just make sure you drain it on cold nights. We're getting some frosty weather in tonight (May?) so I just finished draining mine just in case.
The only thing about well water is the calcium content, which will clog the little coils inside over time, but there are instructions for keeping it clean. Not sure what you have in place for a softener. The process includes washing the coil with ...vinegar? something like that. Might pay to run a dedicated line for cleaning cycles.
Thank you for replying back! I really have no idea what I have gotten myself into do I! It’s an old house with nothing that works. So I am learning as I install new EVERYTHING. I have never had well water either. I am going to do some digging and see if I can’t figure a way to filter out the calcium. Maybe I’ll just have to come to you with my questions. You seem to know a lot and what your doing!
@@meggieolvera You learn by doing. Don't doubt yourself. If you can, try to meet some local construction workers (they hang around bars), watch YT vids and read about fixing stuff or building homes. Tiny life seems to follow that path anyway, so you may as well dig in. It's super intimidating but take it one step at a time. I knew very little about construction when I broke ground to build my own house.
I still don't know all that much, just what was needed to get the job done.
Thanks for your video.I had a question about how high your homestead is. You mentioned something about being on a mountain or an area that slightly colder or higher than your surrounding area.. I have the same issue. I have heard these units don't like to be above 2000 ft are you lower than that or if you have any problems if you are above. Thanks
Thanks for watching. I'm at about 950 I think, in the Ozarks. Microclimates are tricky. I think it has more to do with the shape of the terrain. 1/2 a mile in any direction is milder temp swings in the bottoms of the hills because of woods and water I would guess. I cleared about an acre up top though so there isn't much between me and the sky on rocky terrain, which makes things a little more fickle in terms of weather. I don't think there is any hard limit you can go by really. Kinda like the inner city being a touch warmer than the surrounding burbs.
Thx man for the post!!
Question: Do i need a regulator for the gaz line fort that?
Yes. I don't remember the size off the top of my head but it's one of the little ones, bout the same size as a camp stove regulator. I went to the propane store with the manual and had them order one for me.
What did you do for pressure relief valve? Ecco temp sells what looked like the standard valve for a regular HW tank but not showing one for the i12. Trying to install mine now but don't have pressure relief valve so might have to wait couple more days
I have a pop-off valve for the whole system that jets to the outside of the house if it overpressures. I don't think I have anything on the tank itself, I can't remember.
What propane connection are you using. I just bought the unit and want to know if a general propane line with regulator- like grill use- is correct or another regulator is needed. I can't find info anywhere on the gas install. I am using a portable propane tank. THANKS
I use a 20lb tank and a little regulator attached to the tank. That stuff is outside and feeds into the house through one of those yellow bendy hoses. I don't remember the psig for the regulator off the top of my head, there is an "inches of water colum" in the manual that you can convert to psig. You only need a small regulator similar to the ones that come with a bbq, but I'd go with something that doesn't have a knob on it and is pre-set. Picked one up from a propane retailer. NOTE: I'm not subject to any kind of housing codes where I live, if you are then more work might be required. I also plan on upping to a 40-50lb tank one of these days. Maybe in the spring I'll get a pair of them. I've started a collection of propane bottles around here just so that I always have a spare if one of them runs dry, plus extra to use for cooking and other outdoor activities.
How can I change the temperature?
Nice video 👍, what do you have set up as the water inlet and outlet? Are you using a pressure relief valve and a check valve?
Thanks for watching. The inlet was a little screwy. I used a tank penetration and hooked the lines to that on either side of the wall. From there flexible pipe runs to the filter and then a check valve. I also have a pressure release on the high pressure side yes. It has it's own outlet, basically just a pipe. The other outlet is a standard hydrant. 12" I think to drain it quite a way into the house.
Sorry, I thought this was about another vid. All the stuff I mentioned was for the off-grid water supply. I ran pex connectors to the unit and a gas line straight thru the wall for the water heater itself.
@@offgridgecko ok that makes sense lol. I just installed mine yesterday in our skoolie conversion, I wasn't sure if I need a relief valve in the system. I ran the cold water in and the hot out with a PEX check valve. But no pressure relief valve.
@@jasontaylor3318 I'm not sure of your whole installation. There should be a pressure relief somewhere. My setup is tank/pump and there is a valve that shuts off water to the rest of the house. Pressure relief is behind that valve because that is where it will overload if the pump goes on the fritz. Pressure elsewhere would never go over 50 and my valve pops at 75 I think. If you are using city water, there should be something in place already, but most of the time you have a constant 20-40psi so it isn't a bother for most people. I've never seen city water pressure cause a problem.
If you are off-grid, just make sure that wherever your pressure is coming from that there is a safety in there sometimes. You can tee off any existing connection on the HP side pop a valve in there if needed. Draining was the main concern on my install.
How do you like it so far? Is it going to work for you?
So Marty are you saying you don't have anything on your water inlet line nor a pressure regulator on your hot water outlet line? or an air relief valve on the hot side either? in our manual its page 13 and there is a lot of piping it seems you didn't use yet it works!!!!!!! I'm excited to here that.
I have shutoff valves on the two lines for cold weather. My drain system is through the house, so I close the main gate from the pump and tank, then drain, etc. The hot side...basically nothing special. Depends on what you have. If using well water, you might want to have some way to flush vinegar through the on occasion to clean it out. All it needs to work is 20psi and 0.8 gallons per minute. Mine works at 0.7 but better to have more so you aren't splitting hairs. My cold line is restricted to the shower to ensure that I'm always getting enough flow to the heater, even if hot and cold are both wide open.
@@offgridgecko Thanks for the time and the reply. God bless
What psi does it shut off at?
how does the 90 degree elbow connect to the top of the water heater? There are holes in the exhaust pipe on top of the water heater and holes on the 90 degree elbow below the butterfly valve. I assume it would connect with screws but they were not provided and i see no instruction or diagram that shows how it connects PLEASE HELP ASAP!!! THANKS
My kit had three little screws for connecting to the top of the unit (with one) and the wall thimble (with 2 there). The screw doesn't really do all that much since everything is pretty secure if you go straight into a wall, but I would say run down to the hardware store and get some sheet metal screws. They should work just fine as long as they are big enough. Don't think that it needs to be an air-tight fit either, they are just there to hold the tubes together, and the draft will pull the hot gasses outside, just like a stove pipe.
@@offgridgecko ok thanks man!
I bought one of these and it lasted for three uses and quit working(started gushing water out of the bottom). Eccotemp refused to honor the warranty by repair or replace .Customer service was bad. So, I just bought a cheap chinese made one off ebay and it has lasted me for for four years and counting now.
Sorry for the warranty issue. Good to know. Mine hasn't quit yet and I'm sure well past the warranty period.
What do you mean when you say ‘cold nights’? What temperature are you referring to?
I don't remember what the instructions say, but I drain it when the predicted low is below 40F, about 4C. I'm exposed on my hill so the microclimate is always more extreme than the forecast. And I'm cautious with this machine.
Does the vent pipe on outside of house get very hot?
TBH I haven't really checked. If it's running for a long time it will. There's a tube of flashing it runs through to keep it from directly contacting the walls.
Can't really give you a temp though I haven't had issues with it the way it's hooked up.
Does your Eccotemp i12 water heater power down shortly after use? Mine shuts down a few minutes after use (and after the fan has stopped), and I have to press the power button again if I want more hot water. Any help would be appreciated, thanks.
No idea. It doesn't power off, but it does kick off the burner and then the fan a bit later.
@@offgridgecko In your video, you turn on the power at 0:48 (display lights up) and about 5 minutes later (at 5:43), it shuts down. At that point, it will not produce hot water unless you press the power button again.
@@nancygrenier4379 it kicks on whenever water starts flowing, unless I intentionally power it down all the way by unplugging it
@@offgridgecko Thanks for that, unfortunately mine doesn't come back on once it has powered down after 5 min of inactivity.
Hi! Do you see any reset button or a way to make it power back on? Suddenly mine won't start up and there is no information online..
No idea. I assume you tried unplugging it and starting it back up. The little red power light should be shining if power is connected. Once I touch that, the temperature displays on the screen.
You also might want to check your gas to make sure it's full (if you are running off a propane tank like me). You comment is a little vague but if you elaborate a bit then I'm more than happy to try and help. I might not find a solution, but I'll look with you and see what I can dig up.
how do you drain it? I had no idea about this
You basically open up the lines going to it and then turn a little knob behind the cold water inlet that will let air into the system. Takes a couple minutes for it to empty itself.
How's the i12 water heater going?
ticking like a clock. Running rain water through it, very little problems. I don't even know how long I've had it at this point. Just wish it had some kind of meter on it or maybe on my bottles where I could gauge how much propane was left, specially in the winter time.
@@offgridgecko thanks I bought the exact same unit for my house.
@@chrislewis9345 Cool. It makes a nice little middle-ground unit. Not good for gravity fed but not quite enough prolly for a modern house is the US. If you have hard water or well water I def reccomend seeing how to run some vinegar through it at some point to clean out any scale buildup in the coils.
So is the water heater still kicking ass? Getting ready to finally install mine.
Don't go with ecootemp I've learned that hard lesson twice
Mine's been running for 5 years, and still working fine.