2.25 engine. Front seal, oil pump, chain tensioner
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- Опубліковано 8 вер 2024
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Excellent video again Mike - thank you. Fantastic engines!
Hurry up Claude - we need the block back! 😀
Yes we do!
I always drilled and tapped them for 3/16 machine screws , so the seal can be replaced in the future.
To be fair, the Repair Operation Manual does instruct you to replace the rivets with screws. The precise wording is below:
"On initial assembly of the engine, the mud shield around the oil seal is rivetted in position but after removal in service the rivets are substituted with self tapping drive screws.
"Where drive screws are fitted, it may be possible to renew the seal without removing the timing cover...
"...On fitting a new seal, the mud shield should be allowed to finally pull the seal into position to ensure a positive location."
Upon refitting, it says:
"12. Smear the outside diameter of a new oil seal with Hylomar P1 32/M jointing compound...
"... 14. Coat the drive screws with Hylomar and secure the mud shield."
I hope the above helps!
Clever design for timing chain tension , Somthing learned yet again , great video Mike 🍻
Glad you enjoyed it
As I said, somethings on a Land Rover are just brilliant, beautiful engineering. Those 2.25L i had never gave me trouble and they don't mind being rev'd and worked hard either. Smooth as a baby's bottem. Gearbox/transferbox is good too, if looked after.
Couldn't agree more!
I’d tap the holes in the casing and enlarge the holes in the mud shield to take set screws - that way, you can replace the seal in the future (next month, since it’s a Britpart seal) without removing the casing from the engine again.
You can see how the oil pump and timing system were designed by real engineers, not “cost engineers”, before the BL rot set in.
There is not a lot of thickness in the aluminium casing to get many threads in by tapping them out so I would be careful with doing that as they could strip very easily, and because a coarse thread is normally used in soft aluminium you would not be able to get many threads in there making it more possible for the screw to cross-thread or strip. It's still a good idea though. Best wishes. Rob. .
@@MrRobmellor, how about rivnuts? I would think M3 or M4 would be shallow enough and prevent the need to ever drill those rivets out again.
@@nickboylen6873 That would be my choice, a good call Nick.
@@MrRobmellor, that’s assuming they’re shallow enough to clear the sprocket inside!
I think I'd use blind rivets, so as to ensure no oil leaks through the rivet centre
The last 1 i done i sealed the back and popriveted it on
Would it have been possible to tap the holes around the oil seal, instead of using rivets? Can't tell how thick the metal is from the video, but would think bolts (with sealant on the threads to prevent leaks) could make future removal much easier.
It is possible - M4 or M5 I think.
Saved some money on gear-driven cam.
I can't remember seeing an oil seal guard.
Don't forget the 'potential leak' at the rivets.. through the centre hole... we always used to seal them with a dab of rtv over the hole.
I drilled and tapped, use Allan key to remove fasteners. Works like a charm, easy to get. I used M4 cap heads
Fascinating watching again, thanks Mike. 😊
Glad you enjoyed it
Brilliant work there mike
It'd be nice to see yer smiling face a bit more Mike, it's like "talk to the hands", but we got to see the important bits of what you're doing, and that's what it's all about, I guess.
Have you sold the Series 1 yet?
Great video as usual Mike. Glad to see that you used blind aluminium rivets, steel ones would take to much pressure before they :pop: which could damage the aluminium casing. ( due to Arthur Righteous I now use a air rivet gun ) If I get an over-sized hole like that bottom one, I just stick a washed on the inside to cover it up better. I wish that I could buy a 2.5 petrol to fit in my old defender, They are in your words, properly engineered, not cost engineered. Keep up the good work Mike, you bring back so many memories. Best wished from Yorkshire Rob.
Over engineered rather than 'adequate' engineering !
Cheers Rob!
the series land rover 3 bearing engine , I take the timing cover off and replace the seal , dont touch the dirt cover thing on the outside
yes the only difference between series and tdi 200 oil pump is the relief valve spring . Tdi needed more pressure
Can you believe that I managed to get some copper washers off eBlag that weren't magnetic? Should I ask for a refund?! ;)
Really sorry to say you aren’t annealing copper by letting it cool slowly you should drop the washer in water it’s the opposite of steel
It looked like those were open ended rivets. It would be better to use closed end rivers.
Paul, I think you are right. These open ones can leak. Land Rover uses these gas/waterproof rivets on the body as well.
What is the significance of the grooves in the corners of the flats on the bolt that holds in the spring,piston and ball of the relief valve? Shown at time 13.19. Thank you.
I have racing banjo bolts on my motorcycle master cylinder that have these grooves - to allow for ''lockwiring'', (which is tightly twisting fine wire round the head of the bolt (the wire sits in the groove), and then attaching the other end of the wire to another bolt) It prevents the bolt from turning, loosening, or coming out. Modern safety bolts can have multiple holes drilled in the side of the head so it's easier to slip the wire through. But, I may be wrong for this oil pump bolt and hopefully Mike ccould correct and edjumacate me...
@@WhosAGoodDogue I have seen them on propane and other gas bottle fittings which makes sense if a type of locking method but do not recall seeing them actually wired.
The groove is there to identify unf thread.
@@brendanredgate4594 I looked at lots of pictures of UNF bolts and nuts and cannot find ones with the grooves. However these markings on BSP gas fittings indicate they are left hand thread but the fitting in the video is right hand thread.
Mike. Those lazy ass mothers drilling out the dust shield for your front seal ! Would pop rivets stop any oil leaking ? V.