The best tip ever!!! You still remain the man to come to about knives and sharpening. What a difference this collar makes! You wonder why they didn't think of this when developing the system? Thank you!
Awesome. Thanks a lot. So often when people *try* and do a tutorial, they do it from there own perspective and therefore inadvertently make assumptions about what the receiver already knows. Clear step by step is the way to go. Like this.
I ordered a stop collar when i ordered my edge pro as it was so highly recommended to use but as i sit here waiting for my sharpener to be delivered i realized that i had no idea how to actually use it. This video was perfect and I had the "ahhah" moment in a matter of a couple minutes.
I've had an Edge Pro Apex almost since they came out. I fell away from knives for a while and now getting back. I never thought about this and I thank you for sharing the idea. I'm going to pick up a 5/16" shaft collar tomorrow. McMaster, Grainger, and other industrial supply houses usually have them.
@jackknifeh The important thing isn't having an EXACT 42 degree edge when you start, it's adjusting for stone thickness using the drill collar. There is no need to know what EXACT angle you are at, especially when using something like the collar. The collar adjusts *perfectly* for stone thickness, setting the angle arm at literally the exact adjustment needed to match the previous stone. I've done hundreds of knives this way and I can tell you it works like a dream. :)
I measured the thickness of 5 new untouched stones from edge pro with a micrometer . they varied by 34 thousandth . so I always use the collar . thank you for this video ! it couldn't have been explained better ! folks should know that if they have the professional version and not the apex that the stone goes under the collar since the table adjusts and not the arm .
Man, that is awesome! I don't have my edge pro yet, but it's on its way. I work with a CMM machine in quality lab and it's pure geometry. Makes perfect sense, but I don't think that I'd thought of it. Thanks for the tip I'll get a drill stop guide as soon as it gets here.
😊 just got the edge pro love it. Got tired of the clamped kme and others because of uneven bevels especially on spyderco's, thnxs for the advice on the drill stop collar.
So, if you were using the professional model, you'd set the collar just above the table at the thickness of the first stone and then move the whole rod to the thickness of subsequent stones, leaving the collar in place, correct?
Thanks for the video....I believe this technique is going to help me tremendously. I have been underwhelmed with the system, mainly because I couldn't use it correctly. I can get the knives slightly sharp, but I always felt I was somehow ruining the edge.
Is that a stone blank or a polishing tape blank? If you're talking about the polishing tape blanks, you still have to readjust back the blank and tape to get the angle right for the polishing tape, especially the 6000.
A simple way to explain why this is necessary and how it works is this: a thicker stone raises the left end of the arm. The stop collar trick raises the right end of the arm by the same amount, so that the ANGLE of the arm with respect to horizontal remains the same.
Yep I adjust the arm just like I would as if it was another stone. You don't have to do it for the second blank if you use two, since they are the same thickness. :)
Thank you for the info on the coller, amazing find you did with this vid on different bevels, i knew my knives should be sharper ans was getting ticked lol :))))
i was wondering if you could explain to me how two steels with the exact same rockwell hardness can perform differently, im having a hard time understanding how two things exactly the same harndess could sharpen easier or lose an edge quicker. Hopefully you can help me out. Nice vid and keep up the good work.
@TexanAviator All of the stones are different thicknesses, unless you use new untouched stones each time you sharpen. It is definitely necessary to adjust on each stone change. Yep, I can do that video. It may take me a week or so, but I'll do it. :)
Great demonstration, but I have a quick question. When setting the original angle to match the bevel, do you want to use the THINNEST stone that you have in the set first as a guide so that you dont have to adjust to a thinner stone?
It doesn't matter which stone you use as long as it's thicker than a blank, which of course, it has to be. Even if you used whatever stone is in the middle of the process, as long as you adjust to every single stone as you go, it's right.
It, doesn't need to be the thinnest first, the beauty of the collar is that it factors out the variable stone width. The collar is set to 42 degrees with the assumption that the guide will account for the stone width as additional height to the guide (for every stone). That added height on the guide is subtracted at the blade so its always equal. In other words, adding 2mm in height to the guide with the same stone may change the angle by a degree or so, but since the stone got 2mm thicker, the guide's angle is the same. It's actually a really smart design.
You could technically use any stone in the process, as long as you adjust to each new stone as you go. All you're really looking to do is calibrate the thickness of one particular stone to the actual angle you set on the machine. Then when stone thickness changes, You're taking it into account by adjusting to it up, or down.
The thing is... even with the drill stop you should still check the angle with sharpie... because there is still human error... and for me most of the time my angle was STILL not right after the stop collar... just close. So you might as well just sharpie the knife anyway and skip the collar. In fact... if your knife is not super hard steel and your stones are at least CLOSE in thickness... you really can just skip adjusting the height all together. Stock EP stones are quite coarse until you get to the tape.
There is always room for error with anything. When i used the stop collar it tended to be close enough for even the sharpest/most refined of edges. For me using the sharpy on each change was too time consuming. Glad you found a method that works for you!
Yep my stop collar is so tight you can not move it up or down without struggling. No idea what to do. The allen screw that came with it is worthless because you don't need it for the stop collar to be extremely, extremely tight. I can not even use it.
Thanks JD, I saw that on CKTG. I order all my supplies from Mark. impressed with his shipping times, However, I ordered one from an Ebay store that has a knurled thumb screw, doesn't require a a wrench that I would probably lose. Supposed to get here today!
Thanks JD, I saw that on CKTG, I order all my suppies from Mark, impressed with his shipping times. However, I purchased one off an Ebay store that has a knurled thumb screw, I'd probably lose the wrench for the stop collar!
The best tip ever!!! You still remain the man to come to about knives and sharpening. What a difference this collar makes! You wonder why they didn't think of this when developing the system? Thank you!
It really does take the edge pro to a new level. I didn’t come up with this technique, I just helped spread the word. Glad it’s working for you!
Awesome. Thanks a lot. So often when people *try* and do a tutorial, they do it from there own perspective and therefore inadvertently make assumptions about what the receiver already knows. Clear step by step is the way to go. Like this.
I ordered a stop collar when i ordered my edge pro as it was so highly recommended to use but as i sit here waiting for my sharpener to be delivered i realized that i had no idea how to actually use it. This video was perfect and I had the "ahhah" moment in a matter of a couple minutes.
I've had an Edge Pro Apex almost since they came out. I fell away from knives for a while and now getting back. I never thought about this and I thank you for sharing the idea. I'm going to pick up a 5/16" shaft collar tomorrow. McMaster, Grainger, and other industrial supply houses usually have them.
@jackknifeh The important thing isn't having an EXACT 42 degree edge when you start, it's adjusting for stone thickness using the drill collar. There is no need to know what EXACT angle you are at, especially when using something like the collar.
The collar adjusts *perfectly* for stone thickness, setting the angle arm at literally the exact adjustment needed to match the previous stone. I've done hundreds of knives this way and I can tell you it works like a dream. :)
Nice job. Especially showing how it actually works with the edge pro.
Great job with the video. You spoke well, the camera work was sharp. Could not have asked for a better production. Thanks for explaining it.
This is the most discursive technical explanation. Thanks, now I have a head paine.
Thank you for taking the time. I bought the ep with all the accessories but the instructions on the use of collar are vague at best. God Bless You!
Glad I could help!
I measured the thickness of 5 new untouched stones from edge pro with a micrometer . they varied by 34 thousandth . so I always use the collar . thank you for this video ! it couldn't have been explained better ! folks should know that if they have the professional version and not the apex that the stone goes under the collar since the table adjusts and not the arm .
Man, that is awesome! I don't have my edge pro yet, but it's on its way. I work with a CMM machine in quality lab and it's pure geometry. Makes perfect sense, but I don't think that I'd thought of it. Thanks for the tip I'll get a drill stop guide as soon as it gets here.
Your explanation was so clear, thank you!
😊 just got the edge pro love it. Got tired of the clamped kme and others because of uneven bevels especially on spyderco's, thnxs for the advice on the drill stop collar.
Drill Stop Collar is a must get. Been right on using my Shapton Glass stones.
@newcoyote You're very welcome man! Glad I could help. I will do a more in depth explanation with the angle block soon. :)
Never would have thought of this... Going to get a collar asap!
It is a very useful addition and something I still use to this day!
@@jdavis882 got one now! Thanx for the tip! just flattened the stoned, can;t wait :-)
Chef Knives To Go has them for $3.95 +S&H. IMO it should be included with every Edge Pro Sharpener it is a must have for this tool!
Such a brilliant and simple system! Thanks for the tutorial bro!
So, if you were using the professional model, you'd set the collar just above the table at the thickness of the first stone and then move the whole rod to the thickness of subsequent stones, leaving the collar in place, correct?
Excellent, perfect information. Thank you!
Thanks for the video....I believe this technique is going to help me tremendously. I have been underwhelmed with the system, mainly because I couldn't use it correctly. I can get the knives slightly sharp, but I always felt I was somehow ruining the edge.
Thank you for this vid. My knives sharpen way faster now. I usually set the angle with a blank to get a true angle and then adjust for the stones.
Is that a stone blank or a polishing tape blank? If you're talking about the polishing tape blanks, you still have to readjust back the blank and tape to get the angle right for the polishing tape, especially the 6000.
A simple way to explain why this is necessary and how it works is this: a thicker stone raises the left end of the arm. The stop collar trick raises the right end of the arm by the same amount, so that the ANGLE of the arm with respect to horizontal remains the same.
Yep I adjust the arm just like I would as if it was another stone. You don't have to do it for the second blank if you use two, since they are the same thickness. :)
Excellent tutorial! Thanks again.
When I go to the hardware store to buy a drill stop collar for my edge pro , is there a specific size I should ask for?
Thanks for the video!! So much help
What size and specs on the drill stop collar?
@patdud1979 When you get them they are the same thickness. They wear at different rates, giving you stones of varying thicknesses over time. :)
Thank you for the info on the coller, amazing find you did with this vid on different bevels, i knew my knives should be sharper ans was getting ticked lol :))))
OK, guess I'll just use the angle cube to verify....thanks for the info!
I have the angle cube as well and it has been right on every time after double checking with the cube.
i was wondering if you could explain to me how two steels with the exact same rockwell hardness can perform differently, im having a hard time understanding how two things exactly the same harndess could sharpen easier or lose an edge quicker. Hopefully you can help me out. Nice vid and keep up the good work.
Qestion why are the stone not the same thickness ? it would be much more simple that way would it ?
I get it but how would you compensate for the thickness of the first stone?
@TexanAviator All of the stones are different thicknesses, unless you use new untouched stones each time you sharpen. It is definitely necessary to adjust on each stone change.
Yep, I can do that video. It may take me a week or so, but I'll do it. :)
Even new stones aren't the same. Adjust every single time.
Thanks m8! U explained it brilliantly. Much help
What size stop collar are you using???
Great demonstration, but I have a quick question. When setting the original angle to match the bevel, do you want to use the THINNEST stone that you have in the set first as a guide so that you dont have to adjust to a thinner stone?
It doesn't matter which stone you use as long as it's thicker than a blank, which of course, it has to be. Even if you used whatever stone is in the middle of the process, as long as you adjust to every single stone as you go, it's right.
excellent job sir, thank you
where can i find a drill coller ????
wouldn't you want to initially set up the collar to get the right angle on the thinnest stone, which might not always be the first?
It, doesn't need to be the thinnest first, the beauty of the collar is that it factors out the variable stone width. The collar is set to 42 degrees with the assumption that the guide will account for the stone width as additional height to the guide (for every stone). That added height on the guide is subtracted at the blade so its always equal. In other words, adding 2mm in height to the guide with the same stone may change the angle by a degree or so, but since the stone got 2mm thicker, the guide's angle is the same. It's actually a really smart design.
You could technically use any stone in the process, as long as you adjust to each new stone as you go. All you're really looking to do is calibrate the thickness of one particular stone to the actual angle you set on the machine. Then when stone thickness changes, You're taking it into account by adjusting to it up, or down.
thank you man
btw try to use Long Arm alen wrench i see you fighting with this little one
@squidvis You only need to compensate for CHANGES from the thickness of the first stone.
The thing is... even with the drill stop you should still check the angle with sharpie... because there is still human error... and for me most of the time my angle was STILL not right after the stop collar... just close.
So you might as well just sharpie the knife anyway and skip the collar. In fact... if your knife is not super hard steel and your stones are at least CLOSE in thickness... you really can just skip adjusting the height all together. Stock EP stones are quite coarse until you get to the tape.
There is always room for error with anything. When i used the stop collar it tended to be close enough for even the sharpest/most refined of edges. For me using the sharpy on each change was too time consuming. Glad you found a method that works for you!
@@jdavis882 holy cow... he lives! I thought you were long disappeared man.
Crixus The Gaul nah man I check comments and respond at least once per week. Or try to at least. I plan on making some new videos soon.
Thank You
Yep my stop collar is so tight you can not move it up or down without struggling. No idea what to do. The allen screw that came with it is worthless because you don't need it for the stop collar to be extremely, extremely tight. I can not even use it.
Try taking it off and cleaning all possible grit from both it and the upright.
@MPSecare Haha it's just dirty.
I think its time to trade in for a Wicked Edge. Mainly for my selfish purposes so I can see your perspective and more vidoes on the WE :)
The wicked edge is less versatile than the Edgepro. Any machine with a clamp is going to be.
What size stop collar?
Just go to chefknivestogo and order it from there. They have them specifically for the Edge pro so there's no need to worry about the size. :)
Thanks JD, I saw that on CKTG. I order all my supplies from Mark. impressed with his shipping times, However, I ordered one from an Ebay store that has a knurled thumb screw, doesn't require a a wrench that I would probably lose. Supposed to get here today!
Thanks JD, I saw that on CKTG, I order all my suppies from Mark, impressed with his shipping times. However, I purchased one off an Ebay store that has a knurled thumb screw, I'd probably lose the wrench for the stop collar!
Jeff Thomas 5/16s
It makes sense if you invest in a knife sharpener and not guess on the angle.
Sorry man but you could have explained it in two minutes not eleven.