This is not the complete file, i have to add other as im test fitting and showing on my videos STL File: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/8th-scale-supra-with-2-cylinder-engine-project
itd be cool to use a wireless remote to control the car, maybe you could use a small camera like those on racing drones to weigh it down and get a perspective as though you were really driving it
Well done, especially rotating the parts on the plate! For body parts you got the best layer orientation for smoother curves, but even more importantly, on the structural parts, to get the most out of your filament's mechanical properties! You took the extra mile with the printing time and went for the better outcome! Nice job!
@ThePerle1997 you don't get it do you? The calibrations are at the remote. It's susceptible to noise , since he's already running an engine inside it which will definitely cause signal noise on the receiver side of things 🙄 which is on the car. Unless you could set up epa on the receiver itself, it doesn't matter. I'm telling from experience since I also have a similar setup running on a bagged rc truck with a custom chassis. The remote and receiver are stuff I made and programmed on my own so the pwm calibrations are at the receiver themselves embedded into the code
@@orange_tweleve i ran so much shit Till today, and if you got an actually high quality Remote and a shielded Receiver with a shielded coax cable, it wont be affected by the ignition voltage. I can Tell you from my boats as well. My GPS loses Signal because of Electric Noise from my ESC (No Wonder with 760 Amps going through them) but my Receiver doesnt have any issues at all. And its Not Even properly shielded. Just use Quality Equipment and Place the Receiver on a good distance and you will be totally Fine. If Not, use some Aluminium Foil or other conducting material to prevent the Noise. (That works, Trust me- my boats Are from CFK, No Signals or Electric Noise going in or out, you Need to pull the Antenna wire outside of it.)
@ThePerle1997 will It's a realistic looking supra he's going for. He's not going to stick a big ass antenna in there I suppose. About the GPS losing signal , it's most likely your motors pulling a lot of power if everything is under the same battery , electricity always passes to thing that draws in more current, most gps modules pull less than 100ma, And lol do you really think your esc handles 760 amps !?? Jeez sorry but you lost any credibility about electronics with what you said. There's simply no way the copper terminals in a tiny pcb can handle 760 amps without burning out , that's provided your batteries can pushout 760 amps at once , you must be having a power station in there to push that much power. Just because the fancy rc company you buy from slaps big numbers doesn't mean electrically its correct. All these rc crap gives out fake current draws, buy a multimeter and measure the current draw , there's no way on earth an esc handles 760 amps at 7.4 lipo nominal voltage , thats around 6000 watts! LOL . And yeah about the shielding , I agree , aluminium foil should be grounded to your battery negative for it to be actually " grounded. " and I was wrong about the engine noise , he's using a 2 stroke rc engine, those don't have spark plugs so there's no electrical noise. But it's always safe to have some form of a controller inbettwen receiver and servos to stop them going to either 0 or 180 when you lose signal , whatever calibrations you set in the transmitter doesn't matter because the receiver don't know it once you lose signals , that's why every rc you buy allows the servos to actually move the entire 0 to 180 range without hitting on anything because it can always happen , either by mistake or just unlucky signal loss.
@@orange_tweleve i can provide Logs about what im saying. And its Not One but 2 esc. And 2 Motors. Each pulling around 380 Amps. And i have Data Logs to Prove. We actually pulled 650 amps from 1 Esc in a 2 motor car. And I can prove that with logs too. These are special Esc for high power application. Castle creation. And they can handle that. It’s not the RC car company telling me those numbers- it’s my own experience. Don’t talk shit about me if u don’t know me or what I’m doing. I’m building High Speed cars and boats. Actually the manufacturer of my motors tells less amps and power than it actually made. And my GPS has its own power source.
I love how the engine looks if you go brushless you will have to make a engine case for it also ive had front wheel bearings give me issues with the bearings in the hubs on rear wheel drive cars i found bearings in the wheels seem to work the best as theres no offset pressure on the bearings so if they dont roll very well that will be your issue
I recognize a like-minded person when I see your videos. It's really impressive how clean you work in some parts. However, I have slight concerns about the height adjustment: when your car is finished with all the details, it will be much heavier. You might have to switch to stronger shocks and their breakaway force will certainly be higher. You should take this into account, not that this force surpasses the stall torque of the servos. Anyway, that's my two cents! The rest of the car is epic and I can't wait to see more of it!
You could try looking at the superscale2020 og servo mount , they made a mount that made sure to use the entire servo movement range ( its an oval shaped servo arm ) and that way i believe you can make your hydaulic/ air bag simulations even more smoother and realistic ( makes it less jumpy )
Just found this and really want to build one I found it on cults3d but I have never used cults before my question is since it's not finished and you are still uploading files do I need to wait till all files are uploaded to purchase or if I purchase now will I get access to new files as they are uploaded without having to pay again
Could you plese let me know from where can I download the files to print it for myself? I understand that the car/project is still not complete but I would like to get a headstart and start printing the parts. 1 more suggestion, it looks like your 3D printer belts nees to be tightened a bit so that u get even better and cleaner parts printed and get rid of those lasty layer lines. Again its a suggestion. Looking forward to download the files.
Thanks, I had to tighten on bering and take out a price of stuck filament between nozzle and tube, now it works better, This is not the complete file, i have to add other as im test fitting and showing on my videos STL File: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/8th-scale-supra-with-2-cylinder-engine-project
Wow that thing looks cool, what type of plastic did you print the frame out of? I’m assuming something like PLA would melt from the heat of the nitro engine?
Hello my friend! I' am actually also assembling a 1/8 car with the same engine. Have some problems with carburator adjusting most likely. Did you faced any problems with it? Really want to see how you will set up clutch and gear box to compare with mine solution And for sure see final results Good luck dude!
This is gonna be the best 3d printed RC ever. Do you also have links for all the part u are buying? I will definitely build this one once it is done :)
This is not the complete file, i have to add other as im test fitting and showing on my videos Yes the links in the file description, only the ones was fit correctly, others I will add with the files soon STL File: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/8th-scale-supra-with-2-cylinder-engine-project
If you dont mind , i can help you with writing an arduino based servo controller , with software servo range limiters , but yeah still it wont gurantee signals going nuts and servo jamming. Those 25kg servos next time will most likely break your 3d printed control arms.
I would need that acually, bc I have to reverse 2 servos too, bc I think with coding, you can solve that problem too right? Dm me on my Facebook page scale addiction
@scaleaddiction sadly I only use instagram , and I will need some values like your servo angle limits ( servos are meant to work 0 to 180 degrees of rotation , and within this I need to know what your servo angles limits are to write the code. ) the other issue is its a software endstop , servos with signal jams will most likely happen even with software end stops. I will have to look at the power draw / voltage for the servos too , to choose a transistor/ mosfet or a relay to cut off power incase the servo goes beyond the limit angles and hit the end stop. Inverting servo movement to two servos isn't an issue. Will you be using 4 individual rc channels to control the car height or just one single channel ? Regardless I assume , my arduino based servo controller with end stops will be a device that's in-between your servos and your rc receiver. I can write you a code and easy to follow circuit diagram so you can directly connect your servos to one end and plug in your rc signal ( 1 or 4 depending on whether you want individual servo control). For parts of the project you will need an arduino nano or pro mini, 8 end stop switches, 4 relay modules. Don't worry I will give you the exact names of the parts you will need. Hope you can solder your components according to my diagram.
Not really I have 4 rc cars and 3 are them are 3d printed averaging about 40mph and only broke one with repairable but I would consider it being totaled because it was the entire frame breaking into about five pieces but because it was 3-D printed I had the RC car back out on the road the next day the crash was it a ballpark of I would guess but because the GPS flew it said 70 into a parking block
And I still don't get why cars of today aren't made either this way or use injection molding. We have the technology to make vehicles more cheaper while not sacrificing safety. Cool build.
I think that it is because of all the industry around the car industry, a lot of metal industry (material, not music) life because of automotive industry.
@@nlkmos7202 A lot our vehicles have a crap ton of plastic on the inside and outside that go through decades of abuse from the elements yet they seem to prevail. It would be cheaper and last longer because you won;t have acar that will rust to pieces right in front of you if u live in an area where it snows alot.
@@outlawflyer7868 you’re not wrong, but the plastic parts are to save on cost and they end up compromising on reliability, so like Teslas have plastic control arms and that is the main reason why Teslas end up in the shop to replace set control arms
This is not the complete file, i have to add other as im test fitting and showing on my videos
STL File: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/8th-scale-supra-with-2-cylinder-engine-project
i hope u make it a Paul walker car👍👍💀💀
itd be cool to use a wireless remote to control the car, maybe you could use a small camera like those on racing drones to weigh it down and get a perspective as though you were really driving it
Haven't been this excited for a channel in a long time.
Thanks
Well done, especially rotating the parts on the plate!
For body parts you got the best layer orientation for smoother curves, but even more importantly, on the structural parts, to get the most out of your filament's mechanical properties!
You took the extra mile with the printing time and went for the better outcome! Nice job!
Thanks for watching and supporting
I can't print but I can watch. I look forward so seeing it completed!
Hope you enjoy it!
Hope you enjoy it!
I would suggest servo savers on the suspension, otherwise those servos will get a beating with every bump
Well done Ali, this has to be your best scale project to date. It's coming together fantastically, cannot wait to see it drive.
Thanks, I'm so excited for this one
wow this is really impresive it even had a 2jz
Yes, I will change the engine cover when I'm done with the body, to make it look more like 2jz
For the servos i would recommend adding some form of power cut off endstops , because if not the servos might damage parts if they go crazy
jjst use epa adjust on the radio
@ThePerle1997 you don't get it do you? The calibrations are at the remote. It's susceptible to noise , since he's already running an engine inside it which will definitely cause signal noise on the receiver side of things 🙄 which is on the car. Unless you could set up epa on the receiver itself, it doesn't matter. I'm telling from experience since I also have a similar setup running on a bagged rc truck with a custom chassis. The remote and receiver are stuff I made and programmed on my own so the pwm calibrations are at the receiver themselves embedded into the code
@@orange_tweleve i ran so much shit Till today, and if you got an actually high quality Remote and a shielded Receiver with a shielded coax cable, it wont be affected by the ignition voltage.
I can Tell you from my boats as well.
My GPS loses Signal because of Electric Noise from my ESC (No Wonder with 760 Amps going through them) but my Receiver doesnt have any issues at all. And its Not Even properly shielded.
Just use Quality Equipment and Place the Receiver on a good distance and you will be totally Fine. If Not, use some Aluminium Foil or other conducting material to prevent the Noise. (That works, Trust me- my boats Are from CFK, No Signals or Electric Noise going in or out, you Need to pull the Antenna wire outside of it.)
@ThePerle1997 will It's a realistic looking supra he's going for. He's not going to stick a big ass antenna in there I suppose. About the GPS losing signal , it's most likely your motors pulling a lot of power if everything is under the same battery , electricity always passes to thing that draws in more current, most gps modules pull less than 100ma, And lol do you really think your esc handles 760 amps !?? Jeez sorry but you lost any credibility about electronics with what you said. There's simply no way the copper terminals in a tiny pcb can handle 760 amps without burning out , that's provided your batteries can pushout 760 amps at once , you must be having a power station in there to push that much power. Just because the fancy rc company you buy from slaps big numbers doesn't mean electrically its correct. All these rc crap gives out fake current draws, buy a multimeter and measure the current draw , there's no way on earth an esc handles 760 amps at 7.4 lipo nominal voltage , thats around 6000 watts! LOL . And yeah about the shielding , I agree , aluminium foil should be grounded to your battery negative for it to be actually " grounded. " and I was wrong about the engine noise , he's using a 2 stroke rc engine, those don't have spark plugs so there's no electrical noise. But it's always safe to have some form of a controller inbettwen receiver and servos to stop them going to either 0 or 180 when you lose signal , whatever calibrations you set in the transmitter doesn't matter because the receiver don't know it once you lose signals , that's why every rc you buy allows the servos to actually move the entire 0 to 180 range without hitting on anything because it can always happen , either by mistake or just unlucky signal loss.
@@orange_tweleve i can provide Logs about what im saying.
And its Not One but 2 esc. And 2 Motors. Each pulling around 380 Amps. And i have Data Logs to Prove. We actually pulled 650 amps from 1 Esc in a 2 motor car. And I can prove that with logs too. These are special Esc for high power application. Castle creation. And they can handle that.
It’s not the RC car company telling me those numbers- it’s my own experience.
Don’t talk shit about me if u don’t know me or what I’m doing. I’m building High Speed cars and boats.
Actually the manufacturer of my motors tells less amps and power than it actually made.
And my GPS has its own power source.
This is awesome bro. Well done
Thanks for the visit bro/, appreciate that
I love how the engine looks if you go brushless you will have to make a engine case for it also ive had front wheel bearings give me issues with the bearings in the hubs on rear wheel drive cars i found bearings in the wheels seem to work the best as theres no offset pressure on the bearings so if they dont roll very well that will be your issue
Thanks, after finishing this one, I will make an electric version too, sure I will keep that in mind
The build is turning great bro 🦾👌
Appreciate it
your cars feel wider than the actual thing, and im all for it!
Yes it's wider really, that's how I like it too
Looking good 👍
Thanks 👍
Fkn awesome man…. I can truly appreciate this because I also have an RC Chanel, mostly 1/7 custom speed run builds.
I recognize a like-minded person when I see your videos. It's really impressive how clean you work in some parts.
However, I have slight concerns about the height adjustment: when your car is finished with all the details, it will be much heavier.
You might have to switch to stronger shocks and their breakaway force will certainly be higher. You should take this into account, not that this force surpasses the stall torque of the servos.
Anyway, that's my two cents! The rest of the car is epic and I can't wait to see more of it!
The shocks sprint at lowest point, I can adjust it when the car gets heavy or I can change the springs, but we will see
@@scaleaddiction You're right, this could be enough of a change. Great, keep on going!
You could try looking at the superscale2020 og servo mount , they made a mount that made sure to use the entire servo movement range ( its an oval shaped servo arm ) and that way i believe you can make your hydaulic/ air bag simulations even more smoother and realistic ( makes it less jumpy )
Really cool!
Thanks
Great work, I really like your work.
Also I can't wait for you to upload the files in order to print this myself.😊
Thank you very much!, I can post the files, but still not fully finished
@@scaleaddiction There is still a lot of work to do? Also, could you please tell me if the full chassis is printable on a Ender 3?
it's not it is bearly printable on my Ender 3 max@@sebastiancojuharii5958
Yeah, I know.
This should be present in the description before buying it, or at least scaled to fit.@@ajahniepemberton1860
he said it in his video and it was also said that he will also publish files printable for smaller printers @@sebastiancojuharii5958
Have you ever done a 89 honda crx sl i love all of you video i really enjoy watching them
Just found this and really want to build one I found it on cults3d but I have never used cults before my question is since it's not finished and you are still uploading files do I need to wait till all files are uploaded to purchase or if I purchase now will I get access to new files as they are uploaded without having to pay again
hello, sure you will be able to download the files as im adding or chaining for free once you purchase the file
so cute!
👍
Toyota supra!!!!
You got my sub…
Thanks
since your using servos for ride height, why not integrate it with roll control, all u need is the gyro.
Could you plese let me know from where can I download the files to print it for myself?
I understand that the car/project is still not complete but I would like to get a headstart and start printing the parts.
1 more suggestion, it looks like your 3D printer belts nees to be tightened a bit so that u get even better and cleaner parts printed and get rid of those lasty layer lines. Again its a suggestion.
Looking forward to download the files.
Thanks, I had to tighten on bering and take out a price of stuck filament between nozzle and tube, now it works better,
This is not the complete file, i have to add other as im test fitting and showing on my videos
STL File: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/8th-scale-supra-with-2-cylinder-engine-project
Wow that thing looks cool, what type of plastic did you print the frame out of? I’m assuming something like PLA would melt from the heat of the nitro engine?
I'm using pla now, after all testing completed, I will resin print it or abs print it
かっこいいなー
🙏🙏
Hello my friend!
I' am actually also assembling a 1/8 car with the same engine. Have some problems with carburator adjusting most likely.
Did you faced any problems with it?
Really want to see how you will set up clutch and gear box to compare with mine solution
And for sure see final results
Good luck dude!
This is gonna be the best 3d printed RC ever. Do you also have links for all the part u are buying? I will definitely build this one once it is done :)
This is not the complete file, i have to add other as im test fitting and showing on my videos
Yes the links in the file description, only the ones was fit correctly, others I will add with the files soon
STL File: cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/8th-scale-supra-with-2-cylinder-engine-project
If you dont mind , i can help you with writing an arduino based servo controller , with software servo range limiters , but yeah still it wont gurantee signals going nuts and servo jamming. Those 25kg servos next time will most likely break your 3d printed control arms.
I would need that acually, bc I have to reverse 2 servos too, bc I think with coding, you can solve that problem too right? Dm me on my Facebook page scale addiction
@scaleaddiction sadly I only use instagram , and I will need some values like your servo angle limits ( servos are meant to work 0 to 180 degrees of rotation , and within this I need to know what your servo angles limits are to write the code. ) the other issue is its a software endstop , servos with signal jams will most likely happen even with software end stops. I will have to look at the power draw / voltage for the servos too , to choose a transistor/ mosfet or a relay to cut off power incase the servo goes beyond the limit angles and hit the end stop. Inverting servo movement to two servos isn't an issue. Will you be using 4 individual rc channels to control the car height or just one single channel ? Regardless I assume , my arduino based servo controller with end stops will be a device that's in-between your servos and your rc receiver. I can write you a code and easy to follow circuit diagram so you can directly connect your servos to one end and plug in your rc signal ( 1 or 4 depending on whether you want individual servo control). For parts of the project you will need an arduino nano or pro mini, 8 end stop switches, 4 relay modules. Don't worry I will give you the exact names of the parts you will need. Hope you can solder your components according to my diagram.
May be late but how have you not 3d printed center caps for the wheels
I ordered new set of wheels, I will design on that one
Use telescoping axles.
First
which 3d printer you are using ??? can u suggest any pls ?
I'm using creality cr10 max, but there are better now, bambu looks like the king for now
@@scaleaddiction Thank You.
Amazing work but I fear it's going to be fragile. I raced RC for 2 years.
Not really I have 4 rc cars and 3 are them are 3d printed averaging about 40mph and only broke one with repairable but I would consider it being totaled because it was the entire frame breaking into about five pieces but because it was 3-D printed I had the RC car back out on the road the next day the crash was it a ballpark of I would guess but because the GPS flew it said 70 into a parking block
Top de mais 😮😮😮😮😮🤩🤩😍🥰🥰🥰🥰👏👏🏼👏
🙏🙏
And I still don't get why cars of today aren't made either this way or use injection molding. We have the technology to make vehicles more cheaper while not sacrificing safety. Cool build.
I think that it is because of all the industry around the car industry, a lot of metal industry (material, not music) life because of automotive industry.
Because people don't want to buy plastic crap quality metal won't warp or lose strength if its outside due to weather the sun and so on
@@nlkmos7202 A lot our vehicles have a crap ton of plastic on the inside and outside that go through decades of abuse from the elements yet they seem to prevail. It would be cheaper and last longer because you won;t have acar that will rust to pieces right in front of you if u live in an area where it snows alot.
@@outlawflyer7868 you’re not wrong, but the plastic parts are to save on cost and they end up compromising on reliability, so like Teslas have plastic control arms and that is the main reason why Teslas end up in the shop to replace set control arms
imagine if you could add a small turbo
sure im planning for that and cold air intake too
Do an R34 with a 6 cylinder
I was thinking to make the r34 electronic 🤔
It's part 3 or 4?
It should be part 4 😅
@@scaleaddiction 😁😉
You need a better way to mount those wheels
Yes, I will design them, but I was thinking to change the tires
Im hoping youre doing real interior too with back seats i dont wanna see the inside exposed make it as real as you can
Sure I will work on that soon too, but first is the steering and transmission thing to make it move first
Colocar torrent baixar manda site
Get a mini V8
That thing costs 3000 bruh you could buy a real car😂
it's really bad ass but god i wish it was any other car, so sick of seeing supras everywhere
It's one of my favourite, but I will do nissan gtr r34 after that
Why would u get sick of seeing supras. Don't sound like a bad thing
I love the build bro 🤙
Thanks
Bad Musik🎉
Where did you get the STL file for this?
its my design
cults3d.com/en/3d-model/game/8th-scale-supra-with-2-cylinder-engine-project
@@scaleaddiction That’s really dope!! $16 is worth it! Good shit!! Hey next one do an R34 GTR!!
@@DR.ELEKTRIK thats the plan, r34 is next
but why a supra though? :P