I chuckle whenever someone says, “it’s easy to sharpen in the field”, as if you will be Rambo using a rock. You’re taking a bag full of supplies and don’t have room for a diamond sharpener or similar weighing less than an ounce. The Worksharp outdoor sharpener, the 2” small square one, has a diamond and ceramic surface and room for 3 hex bits, one of which could be for the handle Allen head screws. Hope your channel grows!
The knife Connection! You can build the architect knife, which is built by top knives for the knife connection. You can go there pick either the 6.5 or the 5.5 blade pick your handles,G10 scales with different colors pick your knife Sheaths in Kydex, or leather and any other accessory and you put them together. They will send it to you but you have to put it together. They are one of if my favorite knives for survival. You can get it in 1095 steel or CPM 3VN steel. That is why it also called the knife builder!
I got this knife as a first run as well, in 3V, back when no one had heard of them; such an easter-egg. It really is so versatile, it's just a beast. Before they went to white river knives for 3V they used Peter's heat treat for it. So these early models are legit, and were a bit cheaper.
White River is legit! Their steel is top shelf! But with confidence.. They supply steel for other high end knives also.. Such as Fobos Knives Tier One mini and mini mini.. flawless execution.
@@marvinbrock960 no doubt. In fact I just ordered an M1 in magnacut, and I'm super excited to get that. I just meant that the early 3V architects were Pete's, so also really good and a little cheaper. Back then, the Architect line had almost zero recognition, so it was exciting to find them. But White River is definitely legit, one of the best.
This may be a good option for some no doubt. I bought my Gerber Patriot with a Blackie Collins case at the PX some 32 years ago for $80. It’s not new, it’s not pretty but I know for a fact that it is a good survival knife. It would be the first one I’d grab.
I use a stainless Mora Garberg or a 110mm carbon steel Teräva (were not allowed to carrry anything over 12cm blade length...not sure if even that stays with all the new people coming that have ritualistic carving as main qualification) paired with a Victorinox SAK but you could probably just use a cheap Mora and the knife would still outlast most people. If you watch some destruction videos of Mora knives you can see that you would have to destroy them on purpose because even by misusing a Mora its not that easy to destroy them. And what would damage a Mora would most likely damage an expensive knife too. In addition i prefer steel similar to 12C27 or 14C28 over the highend steels. Its easier to sharpen but more importantly its a lot easier to repair a damaged blade edge which would be easy (or remotly fast) even with the softer steel. I also just carry small 5cm DMT diamond sharpener in coarse and fine which should let me repairing the edge. It makes me laugh seeing people carrying a full maintenance kit including leather straps. I doubt you would have the time in a SHTF situation to bring your edge to a hair shaving sharpess anyways.
I keep a Cold Steel Drop Forged Survivalist in a kydex sheath that allows for my mora companion or Cold Steel SRK to clip to the side and has a ferro rod holder. I also keep my Spetsnaz shovel and Cold Steel Uidson Bay hatchet tied to the same pack
Wow! For once, not a "only one knife" scenario, which has now got so hackneyed that I don't even watch them any more. As you rightly say, if any such situation arises, your pre-planning comes into play, and your gear must reflect this. For me though, your choices, though two good categories, still fall short a bit. It lacks a really heavy hitter (ie large knife 8 1/2 inch + blade, and a multi-tool knife (maybe a pliers-based tool if in a predominantly urban environment). Here's what I'd have: 1. Large knife: this for "heavy-hitting" and hard work. My Cold Steel Trail Master (San Mai III version) would be first choice, and live in my pack. 2. Belt knife: this is what would always be on my belt - Cold Steel SRK (CPM3V, sabre grind version). This is the quintessential survival knife and the best all-rounder. 3. Bushcraft knife: here I'd be somewhat adventurous, as this is a specialist category covering woodworking activities, so not really survival stuff necessarily. Here I'd go for the Victorinox Venture Pro, plus kit system. This new entry to the market has created quite a storm, especially over here in UK and Europe, with demand exceeding supply significantly. This system has the advantage of being more versatile than the specialist knives, eg Mora Garberg. 4. Multi-tool knife: Here my carry of decades would continue to be my mainstay small tool: Victorinox Swiss Champ! If I was to be in a mainly rural/woodland environment, I'd be tempted top rather take the V'nox Hercules, which is just a tad larger. Nos 1 and 3 would live inside the pack till needed, and Nos 2 and 4 would be on my belt all the time. Of course, a permanent fixture in my gear would always be a Silky saw! (either a Gomboy or a Bigboy, depending on circumstances. With these tools one is set up for virtually any task one might face "out there". As I mentioned, in a more urban/populated environment different considerations might apply and influence choices. Cheers mate!
For one who likes all the options, I’m assuming the rest of you kit is similar. As an old pack mule myself...be careful or you’ll end up with a bad back. Again assuming you actually pack all that around...
The difference between bushcraft and survival are the circumstances you're in. Not the knife or any other gear. Of course you can choose to have a BOB ready with another knife in there but that still has to perform all the tasks needed.
Sorry Disagree woodsman, axe, and a rescue axe are two totally different things. Bushcraft and survival knives are no different. They both can do the same job in some situations, but are not the same.
@@MountainAC1 A rescue ax, like an ice ax, is a designated (specialist) tool and a woodsman ax is a general tool. Like a filet knife or a peeling knife are designated tools and not general tools like a camp knife. Between the camp knives, small, medium or large, there's no difference in knives in bushcraft or survival since there's no difference in tasks. In both scenarios you still have to build a fire and shelter for instance. I always say that bushcraft is going into the bush and survival is getting the hell out.
Collected Knife Tips : 1) You can attach orange paracord to your knives and other equipment so it on't get lost easily. 2) You can make a paracord lanyard to use put though the hole in your knife handle so your hand won't slip while chopping. 2) You can avoid beating on your knife (batoning) by using a folding saw and ax or hatchet. You can also fashion wooden wedges to baton instead. Normally, you'll find enough deadfall that is useable for fire making without the need for batoning anyway. 3) You can uses hockey tape or other wrap material on your knife handle to improve your grip. 4) If you choose a big survival knife, you'll still be able to do fine work with it. Anything a small knife can do, a big knife can do but a bushcraft knife should be chosen for appropriate size, blade width, grind and comfort. 5) There is a point of diminishing returns in knife toughness. Often, a knife is rugged enough that it won't break even without the thickest blade or toughest steel made. Weight may matter too. 6) Leather handles may absorb animal blood when used for hunting and can get to smell bad. 7) Before using a knife for food preparation, wash it with dish liquid such as Dawn to remove germs and residual non-food-grade oil. 8) Gloves are often a help in gripping knives, can prevent irritation from the handle and enhance safety especially during sharpening. 9) Accidentally driving your knife into dirt or muddy logs will dull it fast. So will accidental contact with rocks. One way to keep your knife safe and sharp is to always have it either in your hand or in its sheath. 10) The quickest knife to bring into action is a fixed blade knife. If you aren't happy with the sheath, you can buy or make a replacement. 11) A knife maker's reputation can tell you more than a set of specifications. The type of steel used, its thickness and type of grind may be less important that the maker's heat treatment, degree of hardening, quality control, fit and finish. 12) If you don't baton, throw, pry with or otherwise abuse your knife, it may last a lifetime and delight your heirs. 13) There are some inexpensive but good knives such as the Mora, BPS and Beavercraft lines. There are more expensive knives from KaBar, Cold Steel, Tops and Esee that are also well worth the money. Avoid gimmicky, fragile, no-name, novelty and cheaply-made knives ( and anything from China ) . Put your money into quality knives with good sheaths. 14) It is ideal to handle a particular type of knife in person before ordering one online. Ask friends what knives they have for you to examine. 15) Hollow handles that contain survival goodies are to be avoided. Full tang construction is ideal for strength. House survival kis in a pouch on the sheath or, better, in a separate belt pouch. that way, your small kit can hold more items and will be there when you need it. 16) It isn't normally good to use your knife as the tip of a spear but you can lash it to a pole to reach food, game or other things that are otherwise out of reach. 17) If you luck into an "Old Hickory" brand butcher knife, keep it. It can be used as a bushcraft knife either stock or modified. The brand was made by Onterio and is no longer produced. 18) When walking, a knife's lanyard can catch on branches and drag the knife out of the sheath. Consider that before using a lanyard. 20) If you want a defense knife, look at the Cold Steel Drop Forged Wasp, which is reminiscent of the Gerber Mark II. Otherwise, for EDC, get a Colonel Blades Lo Vix fixed blade. 21) Be extremely careful with folders but get a Victorinox Explorer and a Leatherman Wave.
@@BeefT-Sq I used the word BOB since many people use it. There's also a GHB (get home bag), etc. I just have one bag I call my Go (Grab) Bag. I keep it very low profile (grey man tactic) and only neccesary items all inside the bag. My 'survival' knife has to fit inside also since the Go Bag has to be always ready. Things you take out are likely to forget put back in. There are general task camp knives and specific task knives. When I go out to teach Bushcraft or go on a long wilderness hike myself I know I'm gonna use the knife a lot for instance for wood carving so I bring a specific task knife. When I go fishing I bring a specific task knife, etc. I see a 'survival' knife as a 'just in case' knife where I don't plan on using it a lot or at all and I'm sure not bringing an ax or saw in my daypack on a dayhike. So when I teach or practice survival it will always be a small, compact, lightweight, plastic (kydex/zytel) sheath, stainless steel blade and no leather anywhere on knife or sheath. I don't expect my students to bring some 175 dollar, full tang, heavy and big knife, so I don't use one myself when teaching. I would consider that cheating. I teach them how to work with a simple budget fixed blade knife and this includes batoning small stuff. So I recommend something as simple and budget friendly as the Mora Basic 546 or Hultafors RFR. I do recommend drilling a lanyard hole in it and bring a separate lanyard. No backpacker, thru hiker or dayhiker is gonna bring a big heavy knife, ax and saw. No person who's fully prepared for 'bushcraft' doesn't have all the heavy tools needed, meaning that a 'survival' situation is most likely only to occur with illness or injury and injury possibly because of a mistake with the tools.
I have quite a few questions/ concerns. First- "a very good steel for prying"- prying is more about geometry than steel in most cases but as a general rule- no. Do you think it might be a bit presumptuous both to do a doomsday advice video and to tell people which knife is best based on your experience with doomsdays and with knives? Honest thought.
Depends on what you consider Prying only a moron would try to use a knife as a crowbar to pry something 500 pounds. Lol and if you like that, I guess I’ll make my next video best hatchet for an alien invasion and taking out the alien queen will that make you feel better?
Preppers bunker : I don’t know I would be inclined to believe him over you looking through your channel videos. It looks like you just go around in the woods and play in stuff here on the east coast that looks like our back 40 that my 13 year old son plays in. This guy actually does stuff in the wilderness. Just my thoughts.
@heathergrams7768 you didn't find my adventures, survival trips, military experience, law enforcement experience, training classes, etc in hundreds of thousands of video hours in 10 minutes? *shocked face Asking if something is presumptuous when talking about the best knife when you clearly have very little knife experience or what is best foe a doomsday event when you have never experienced a doomsday event seems to be fair to me. But hey, we live in a world of feelings I guess 🤷♂️
I chuckle whenever someone says, “it’s easy to sharpen in the field”, as if you will be Rambo using a rock. You’re taking a bag full of supplies and don’t have room for a diamond sharpener or similar weighing less than an ounce. The Worksharp outdoor sharpener, the 2” small square one, has a diamond and ceramic surface and room for 3 hex bits, one of which could be for the handle Allen head screws. Hope your channel grows!
The Joker Nomad 6.5 in my bugout.
I have a Cold Steel SRK for a survival knife and a BPS Adventurer knife for bush crafting. They work pretty well and are very affordable.
The knife Connection! You can build the architect knife, which is built by top knives for the knife connection. You can go there pick either the 6.5 or the 5.5 blade pick your handles,G10 scales with different colors pick your knife Sheaths in Kydex, or leather and any other accessory and you put them together. They will send it to you but you have to put it together. They are one of if my favorite knives for survival. You can get it in 1095 steel or CPM 3VN steel. That is why it also called the knife builder!
As somebody said "the best survival knife is the one in your hand "
I got this knife as a first run as well, in 3V, back when no one had heard of them; such an easter-egg. It really is so versatile, it's just a beast. Before they went to white river knives for 3V they used Peter's heat treat for it. So these early models are legit, and were a bit cheaper.
White River is legit! Their steel is top shelf! But with confidence.. They supply steel for other high end knives also.. Such as Fobos Knives Tier One mini and mini mini.. flawless execution.
@@marvinbrock960 no doubt. In fact I just ordered an M1 in magnacut, and I'm super excited to get that. I just meant that the early 3V architects were Pete's, so also really good and a little cheaper. Back then, the Architect line had almost zero recognition, so it was exciting to find them. But White River is definitely legit, one of the best.
This may be a good option for some no doubt. I bought my Gerber Patriot with a Blackie Collins case at the PX some 32 years ago for $80. It’s not new, it’s not pretty but I know for a fact that it is a good survival knife. It would be the first one I’d grab.
Awesome knife 👍
Mines the Becker BK-7 modified with leather sheath 💯☝️‼️🌕🐺
I use a stainless Mora Garberg or a 110mm carbon steel Teräva (were not allowed to carrry anything over 12cm blade length...not sure if even that stays with all the new people coming that have ritualistic carving as main qualification) paired with a Victorinox SAK but you could probably just use a cheap Mora and the knife would still outlast most people. If you watch some destruction videos of Mora knives you can see that you would have to destroy them on purpose because even by misusing a Mora its not that easy to destroy them. And what would damage a Mora would most likely damage an expensive knife too.
In addition i prefer steel similar to 12C27 or 14C28 over the highend steels. Its easier to sharpen but more importantly its a lot easier to repair a damaged blade edge which would be easy (or remotly fast) even with the softer steel. I also just carry small 5cm DMT diamond sharpener in coarse and fine which should let me repairing the edge. It makes me laugh seeing people carrying a full maintenance kit including leather straps. I doubt you would have the time in a SHTF situation to bring your edge to a hair shaving sharpess anyways.
Thanks!
Go for the Norwegian sami knife. Prefered with fingerguard
That is an awesome blade
Thanks glad you enjoyed the video!
I keep a Cold Steel Drop Forged Survivalist in a kydex sheath that allows for my mora companion or Cold Steel SRK to clip to the side and has a ferro rod holder. I also keep my Spetsnaz shovel and Cold Steel Uidson Bay hatchet tied to the same pack
Used to have a cold steel SK that was a good knife! Thanks for watching!
You can replace the handles on any knife
What was the knife in the leather sheath called? I really like the design of that one.
Me too! I hope he answers your question.
It was custom made by my friend woody at wood steel knives! Thanks for asking and watching.
woodsteelknives.com/custom-woodmuk-collaboration/
Wow! For once, not a "only one knife" scenario, which has now got so hackneyed that I don't even watch them any more.
As you rightly say, if any such situation arises, your pre-planning comes into play, and your gear must reflect this.
For me though, your choices, though two good categories, still fall short a bit. It lacks a really heavy hitter (ie large knife 8 1/2 inch + blade, and a multi-tool knife (maybe a pliers-based tool if in a predominantly urban environment).
Here's what I'd have:
1. Large knife: this for "heavy-hitting" and hard work. My Cold Steel Trail Master (San Mai III version) would be first choice, and live in my pack.
2. Belt knife: this is what would always be on my belt - Cold Steel SRK (CPM3V, sabre grind version). This is the quintessential survival knife and the best all-rounder.
3. Bushcraft knife: here I'd be somewhat adventurous, as this is a specialist category covering woodworking activities, so not really survival stuff necessarily. Here I'd go for the Victorinox Venture Pro, plus kit system. This new entry to the market has created quite a storm, especially over here in UK and Europe, with demand exceeding supply significantly. This system has the advantage of being more versatile than the specialist knives, eg Mora Garberg.
4. Multi-tool knife: Here my carry of decades would continue to be my mainstay small tool: Victorinox Swiss Champ! If I was to be in a mainly rural/woodland environment, I'd be tempted top rather take the V'nox Hercules, which is just a tad larger.
Nos 1 and 3 would live inside the pack till needed, and Nos 2 and 4 would be on my belt all the time.
Of course, a permanent fixture in my gear would always be a Silky saw! (either a Gomboy or a Bigboy, depending on circumstances.
With these tools one is set up for virtually any task one might face "out there".
As I mentioned, in a more urban/populated environment different considerations might apply and influence choices.
Cheers mate!
Good choices. Glad you enjoyed the video! Thanks for watching!
For one who likes all the options, I’m assuming the rest of you kit is similar. As an old pack mule myself...be careful or you’ll end up with a bad back. Again assuming you actually pack all that around...
I've been looking for a bigger knife in the 6.5 to 7" range. Do you have a link for this one?
Absolutely thanks for watching! Happy trails! theknifeconnection.com/architect-knife-builder-ak-6-5-1095-steel/
Nice tool. Why didn't you post anything in the video description?
Unfortunately, UA-cam will not let me post any links because my channel is so new. Sorry.
@@MountainAC1 oh I see. Then next time maybe in the thumbnail.
Wish you the best for you channel! Have a nice day from Russia
Esee 4
The Esee 4: Cutting through the competition, one review at a time.
The difference between bushcraft and survival are the circumstances you're in. Not the knife or any other gear. Of course you can choose to have a BOB ready with another knife in there but that still has to perform all the tasks needed.
Sorry Disagree woodsman, axe, and a rescue axe are two totally different things. Bushcraft and survival knives are no different. They both can do the same job in some situations, but are not the same.
@@MountainAC1 A rescue ax, like an ice ax, is a designated (specialist) tool and a woodsman ax is a general tool. Like a filet knife or a peeling knife are designated tools and not general tools like a camp knife. Between the camp knives, small, medium or large, there's no difference in knives in bushcraft or survival since there's no difference in tasks. In both scenarios you still have to build a fire and shelter for instance.
I always say that bushcraft is going into the bush and survival is getting the hell out.
Collected Knife Tips :
1) You can attach orange paracord to your knives and other equipment so it on't get lost easily.
2) You can make a paracord lanyard to use put though the hole in your knife handle so your hand won't slip while chopping.
2) You can avoid beating on your knife (batoning) by using a folding saw and ax or hatchet. You can also fashion wooden wedges to baton instead. Normally, you'll find enough deadfall that is useable for fire making without the need for batoning anyway.
3) You can uses hockey tape or other wrap material on your knife handle to improve your grip.
4) If you choose a big survival knife, you'll still be able to do fine work with it. Anything a small knife can do, a big knife can do but a bushcraft knife should be chosen for appropriate size, blade width, grind and comfort.
5) There is a point of diminishing returns in knife toughness. Often, a knife is rugged enough that it won't break even without the thickest blade or toughest steel made. Weight may matter too.
6) Leather handles may absorb animal blood when used for hunting and can get to smell bad.
7) Before using a knife for food preparation, wash it with dish liquid such as Dawn to remove germs and residual non-food-grade oil.
8) Gloves are often a help in gripping knives, can prevent irritation from the handle and enhance safety especially during sharpening.
9) Accidentally driving your knife into dirt or muddy logs will dull it fast. So will accidental contact with rocks.
One way to keep your knife safe and sharp is to always have it either in your hand or in its sheath.
10) The quickest knife to bring into action is a fixed blade knife. If you aren't happy with the sheath, you can buy or make a replacement.
11) A knife maker's reputation can tell you more than a set of specifications. The type of steel used, its thickness and type of grind may be less important that the maker's heat treatment, degree of hardening, quality control, fit and finish.
12) If you don't baton, throw, pry with or otherwise abuse your knife, it may last a lifetime and delight your heirs.
13) There are some inexpensive but good knives such as the Mora, BPS and Beavercraft lines. There are more expensive knives from KaBar, Cold Steel, Tops and Esee that are also well worth the money. Avoid gimmicky, fragile, no-name, novelty and cheaply-made knives ( and anything from China ) . Put your money into quality knives with good sheaths.
14) It is ideal to handle a particular type of knife in person before ordering one online. Ask friends what knives they have for you to examine.
15) Hollow handles that contain survival goodies are to be avoided. Full tang construction is ideal for strength. House survival kis in a pouch on the sheath or, better, in a separate belt pouch. that way, your small kit can hold more items and will be there when you need it.
16) It isn't normally good to use your knife as the tip of a spear but you can lash it to a pole to reach food, game or other things that are otherwise out of reach.
17) If you luck into an "Old Hickory" brand butcher knife, keep it. It can be used as a bushcraft knife either stock or modified. The brand was made by Onterio and is no longer produced.
18) When walking, a knife's lanyard can catch on branches and drag the knife out of the sheath. Consider that before using a lanyard.
20) If you want a defense knife, look at the Cold Steel Drop Forged Wasp, which is reminiscent of the Gerber Mark II. Otherwise, for EDC, get a Colonel Blades Lo Vix fixed blade.
21) Be extremely careful with folders but get a Victorinox Explorer and a Leatherman Wave.
@@BeefT-Sq I used the word BOB since many people use it. There's also a GHB (get home bag), etc. I just have one bag I call my Go (Grab) Bag. I keep it very low profile (grey man tactic) and only neccesary items all inside the bag. My 'survival' knife has to fit inside also since the Go Bag has to be always ready. Things you take out are likely to forget put back in. There are general task camp knives and specific task knives. When I go out to teach Bushcraft or go on a long wilderness hike myself I know I'm gonna use the knife a lot for instance for wood carving so I bring a specific task knife. When I go fishing I bring a specific task knife, etc.
I see a 'survival' knife as a 'just in case' knife where I don't plan on using it a lot or at all and I'm sure not bringing an ax or saw in my daypack on a dayhike. So when I teach or practice survival it will always be a small, compact, lightweight, plastic (kydex/zytel) sheath, stainless steel blade and no leather anywhere on knife or sheath. I don't expect my students to bring some 175 dollar, full tang, heavy and big knife, so I don't use one myself when teaching. I would consider that cheating. I teach them how to work with a simple budget fixed blade knife and this includes batoning small stuff. So I recommend something as simple and budget friendly as the Mora Basic 546 or Hultafors RFR. I do recommend drilling a lanyard hole in it and bring a separate lanyard. No backpacker, thru hiker or dayhiker is gonna bring a big heavy knife, ax and saw.
No person who's fully prepared for 'bushcraft' doesn't have all the heavy tools needed, meaning that a 'survival' situation is most likely only to occur with illness or injury and injury possibly because of a mistake with the tools.
I have quite a few questions/ concerns.
First- "a very good steel for prying"- prying is more about geometry than steel in most cases but as a general rule- no.
Do you think it might be a bit presumptuous both to do a doomsday advice video and to tell people which knife is best based on your experience with doomsdays and with knives? Honest thought.
Depends on what you consider Prying only a moron would try to use a knife as a crowbar to pry something 500 pounds. Lol and if you like that, I guess I’ll make my next video best hatchet for an alien invasion and taking out the alien queen will that make you feel better?
Preppers bunker : I don’t know I would be inclined to believe him over you looking through your channel videos. It looks like you just go around in the woods and play in stuff here on the east coast that looks like our back 40 that my 13 year old son plays in. This guy actually does stuff in the wilderness. Just my thoughts.
I’m also sure in some other videos he’s mentioned stuff about pulling people out of burning cars, so yeah he probably knows what he’s talking about
@heathergrams7768 you didn't find my adventures, survival trips, military experience, law enforcement experience, training classes, etc in hundreds of thousands of video hours in 10 minutes?
*shocked face
Asking if something is presumptuous when talking about the best knife when you clearly have very little knife experience or what is best foe a doomsday event when you have never experienced a doomsday event seems to be fair to me.
But hey, we live in a world of feelings I guess 🤷♂️
@@Thepreppersbunkeroutdoors yeah because we know police officers are so good at survival lol
What knife is this?
theknifeconnection.com/architect-knife-builder-ak-6-5-1095-steel/
Thanks, thanks for watching!
Mine is a Esee 6 HM with pouch. I wouldn’t trust anything made by tops, UA-cam Joe X Tops knives and you will see.
Thanks for sharing your opinion! It's always interesting to hear different perspectives on knife brands.
Looks like a great knife 🗡️🔪
Thanks well worth the investment!
$175 you completely lost me
USA made baby!
This is just the sheath, not the knife. I looked it up.
theknifeconnection.com/architect-knife-builder-ak-6-5-1095-steel/
Since my channel is very new, UA-cam will not allow me to post hyperlink directly in the description. Sorry.