I love this TT.... been having it for a few years and ida absolutely amazing. Love the fact that you can repeat your albums too... super nice TT! I sent it I’ve to Royalcraft to get a custom base, service and painted
I watch your video. Very informative. The 4 blue screws with the felt washers are transport screws. They are to be removed when ready to use. I finally picked up a SL-1600 MK II yesterday. It was in great condition, just had to clean it up inside and out. The seller had a bag of accessories which included the transport screws, 45 adapter, auxiliary weight, plug adapters, original cable ties, limited warranty paper and Panasonic service paper
Yep, I realized they were transport screws after someone pointed it out. The TT is actually more stable with them installed in on the rack I have it on, mainly due to the bouncy floor under it.
Glad you made this.. I replaced the belt on my 1700mk2 looks just like that one. I think I’ll add a connector like you did. So far mine still works fine. Without any alteration if the belt ever breaks you’ll get no sound trying to use it manually.
This series of Technics are well known for their great sound - HOWEVER, the one thing I am a big fan of modern audiophile tables is the simplicity of them - after fixing a few tables I just lost patience for these great decks. Very interesting video!
The automation is quite convenient and worth the hassle in my opinion. You are right about simplicity, though. I've never had to do a single thing to my 1200. As for modern decks...it's true that keeping them simple makes them reliable. However when I look at what you get for what they charge, I just can't get passed the fact that it's a plank of MDF, a bearing, a platter, a motor, and a tonearm. They are not mass produced to the scale of the vintage stuff, which accounts for some of the price difference. However like many LP pressing today, the quality and consistency also suffers. We will never see turn tables build like this ever again.
It is a great turntable - I've been using mine for four years now. What I noticed recently is that if you raise the arm lift and try to pull the tonearm manually onto the record, the mechanism poses some risistance. The tonearm doesn't move freely and you have to apply some force to push it to the position above the platter. The resistance disappears completely once you lower the armlift - then the tonearm moves freely. The serviceman says it's a normal thing connected with the functioning of the break which is part of the mechanism. He cleaned and re-greased the mechanism and things improved a bit (now at least there's no scratching noise when pulling the tonearm with raised armlift), but I'm fairly sure the tonearm used to operate with less or no resistance when I started using this turntable.
You are correct. There should be very little resistance when you bring the tonearm from its rest over to the platter, regardless if you have the cuing lever up or down.
You fantastic star. Loved your video and importantly I will be investing in this turntable. Your mindset is why I say fantastic star. An engineer and reverse engineer is a fine skill and you demonstrate both. I am a watch maker hobbyist and the skills are similar. I have your efforts, that were successful, to thank as it takes away the mystery you must have felt as you dug deaper into this service.
I just finished refurbishing an SL 1600 MK2 your video really helped, however one BIG POINT the 4 screws you take out initially are TRANSPORT SCREWS they are not needed, I suppose since you kept in storage for a while it makes sense to have them however not needed in every day operation actually they disable the suspension... I see at the end you installed them back ... it is actually described in the manual to remove and store elsewhere. Thank you for a great video !
Yes, I figured that out after making the video. :) I actually left mine in because the place where I have this setup has a very bouncy floor. It's more stable without the suspension. I will mention this in a follow-up video, if I ever have to take this one apart again to replace that cracked gear.
hi @Amorphous Audio, I've watched this video a few times and it has been very useful in helping me restore on old 1600 MK2 I picked up on Facebook. I'm a complete beginner when it comes to this but thought it would be a fun project with the possibility of learning at least a new skill or two. I've taken the table apart and clean the front button contacts with deoxit and replaced the the cue belt. the optical sensor post was also broken so I bought a used one on ebay. it was also missing the original rubber mat, I found someone on Etsy that made me one out of cork with the cutouts needed for the LED's. the last piece I bought was a replacement tonearm counterweight as it did not come with one. I'm now a bit stumped. the turntable turns on as expected, I hit the start button and the platter begins to spin, the cue function begins but instead of placing the needle at the edge of the record, it places it in the middle, lowers the needle, and then stops spinning. I'm guessing I'm going to have to crack it open again and disassemble the tone arm. I think I can do it following your video although I really wouldn't know that to look for. Could I bug you for some advice? here is a link to the behavior. ua-cam.com/video/U-MZ5HkA1rU/v-deo.html Thank you!
HelloJuan! Hello@Amorphous Audio Have you found any solution of this circumstance? I have apporx same one problem with my 1600MK2. But tonearm in my case is placing needle at the end of LP. Then spinning stops and then tonearm returnes back to the holder like it was autostop function realize. ((
That is a strange behavior. Have you tried searching for the service manual? It sound like perhaps the automatic works is not indexed correctly with the position of the tonearm or one or more of the position sensors is not working. I would lean towards the former...the TT thinks the middle of the record is where the arm rest is.
@@olegz8660 I have not resolved this yet. I actually put the project on hold because I was stumped and didn’t want risk causing more damage. I’m hoping to jump back in in the next couple of weeks.
@@counter5thhi! My 1600 mk 2 has basically the same issue, whenever it feels like it , cues on the center label and ocasionally when it cues on the edge, it stops spinning. Have you found the solution?
One of my favorite and best sounding decks, I have the 1610 MK 2. Same turntable in dark grey...sold in Europe. I will attempt the fix shown in the video. Im determined to make it work. It sounds as nice as some more expensive decks I own...Thorens and Denon. Dried grease is a problem... especially on the fully automatic decks. I was able to salvage a perfectly good SL1900 by cleaning gears and levers and lubing. The 1900 is a bit of a sleeper. Not as good as the 1200 - 1800, but still well made with some sort of metal alloy bottom.
Hello Sir. I picked up one of these today at a local thrift shop. I wouldn't say I got it really cheap since these thrift shops now have a special section..I'm sure they do some research and price accordingly. It's in great shape and they let me hook it up to test it.The auto play function doesn't seem to work, but it does play great manually. i'm hoping its the belt you mentioned in your video. The lever mechanism to lift the arm is also stuck. I probably won't run into one of these ever again, so I went ahead and purchased it knowing its flaws. Your video was very helpful and now I might just take a look inside. If its over my head I can hopefully find somebody to work on it. For now it works great as manual 1200. Thanks again
Great find! I never have any luck with the thrift stores around here. I think people "in the know" get to the good stuff before it ever hits the shelves. Hopefully you can get it working again!
I was able to replace the belt looked like it dissolved many years ago. It's working great again. It's a sweet turntable, definitely a keeper. Thanks again for you videos
Thanks for sharing this. What a coincidence, I was just going to do an a/b test between the phono preamp of my integrated and an external one, which happens to be a schiit mani. So I will have to disable the muting circuit. Another thing that happens to me is that in order for the spinning rate to be correct (according to the strobe) I have to raise the pitch a couple of points. I guess it is because the capacitors are no longer at their original values. Another thing I am going to do is to modify the RCA cables for better quality shielded ones, there is a very detailed tutorial on youtube. Greetings from the Basque Country.
Great Video. Thanks!! 🙏 I just get one of this TT and have the same issue when the arm return to the stop position..I will do the service and I hope to run with the same luck!..😬 Regards!
My Grandfather had one of these when i was a kid and i LOVED this turntable and i am still looking for one, but getting a SL1200 mkII 3 weeks ago for $18 gives me hope i might find one of these
@@AmorphousAudio I felt that way too when I saw it in the pictures of was for sale on the Estate sale listing I though it was a knock off, but went to the sale anyway just to get some records but when I saw in person I knew it was real, then I saw the $18 sticker on I Scooped it up while the rest of the crowd was still looking at the records
Just scored one of these and it's working great! only thing that's not working is the repeat function - the button does nothing at all. Do you have any idea what the issue might be?
I did SL-1600mk2 full rebuild in 2017, in the 17:54, i saw the small white gear was cracked same as mine. Closer look will see two black cracks from center to the edge, need to replace i do try found the replacement parts in internet, but not easy. finally I was replace as a M5 32T center hole 4mm coppers gear, work fine until today.
Hi, thank you for the great video! With mine, the tonearm will sometimes not lift up totally at the end of the record or when I press start/stop (it will stall, half way), but with the cue button it lifts up perfectly. And whenever it fully rises at the end the tonearm, while returning, the tonearm will "take a break or two" half way, and start returning again till it reaches the tonearm rest and then it descends. Also the "repeat" function drops the tonearm outside the record. Do you think this has to do with the shaft (the issue you have shown here) or should it need a new small gear wheel(mine seems to show some minor cracks?), or something else? I would be really grateful for any help! :)
Great video! Quick question: when you disconnected the blue wires from the power supply, does it matter in how you reconnect them? I am in the process of doing this and I can't figure if it matters how the 2 leads get connected back to the board: they're both blue and they look the same!
Wonderful video and insight into the mechanisms of these turntables. Mine has a different problem where the tonearm would return and bounce off the rest post slightly before the motor stops. May be you have an idea about what the cause is. Hopefully it's not something todo with the electronic control.
Hello your video has been of great help for the maintenance of my TT 1600 mk2. thanks for that!!! I wanted to consult you that I see in the video that the internal transformer of your TT is not the original one ... did you replace it? Or did you change the coverage? My transformer is getting very hot and I would like to repair it or replace it. If you have any help for my situation, I thank you. cheers
No, it is the original transformer. Is your transformer the correct one for your line voltage? A Japanese 100V unit will work on 120V, but it will run hot.
I have a 1700MK-II. I really want to get it fully serviced to get it sounding the best. I've had it for about 5 years now. The main thing that concerns me is that the tonearm can be turned left to right, pretty sure it should have zero movement in that direction. Would this be something loose underneath or bad bearings? Is it something that can be fixed or would it need a new tonearm? I know the 1200 arms can be used. Strangest issue is that when powered off, the 33 light is still illuminated and never goes out. It just dulls. The power switch is a bit sluggish feeling, could this be that the power switch is not disengaging fully due to gummed up grease? Awesome video by the way!
There are adjustments on most tonearms to tighten any play in the pivots. Normally it is best not to touch these, but I would inspect it closely to see where the play is exactly and go from there. As far as the power not turning off, that is a bit strange. It must be bridging across the switch somehow, though I don't recall exactly where the power switch is in the power supply circuit.
Greetings Andres, it is a pleasure to deal with a connoisseur of turntable repair and maintenance, the truth is that I really want to learn how to repair them and why not restore them ... I'll tell you my grandfather gave me a Technis SL 1900, it turned on but the turntable didn't turn. It is a direct motor but can you tell me how I can solve it or the possible failures for which this turntable does not turn? I thank you.
Got this TT from a guy who serviced it. He put a new tonearm belt & gear . Cleaned & lubed it. Buffed dust cover. Put a US transformer to replace Japanese transformer. Plays great with Shure
As far as I know, the screws with the blue feltwashers are just Security screws for transporting the Deck and are for defeating the Suspension of the subchassis. So leave them Out for use. But this Video came just right for me as I am facing some Problems with the lift of this turntable, and now I am Feeling encouraged to take a look INSIDE. Just afraid of finding some broken parts,because Mine mechanism is doing some very unpleasent noises and the Tonearm is moving and jumping while Lifting Up and down😑
Hah, you are right! I have no idea why I didn't realize that. My SL-1600 (non-mk2) has shipping screws there as well. I guess I just didn't think through how the suspension worked. After reading this, I took them out for a while but ended up putting them back in. This TT is in my office on top of an Ikea shelf that isn't terribly stable. The non-mk2 SL-1600 tended to skip when someone walked by the shelf. The slight movement of the floor made the shelf wiggle a bit which made the suspension bounce around. The 1200-mk2 didn't do this and neither does the 1600-mk2 when the suspension is clamped down. So I guess I will be keeping them in there, but thanks for the tip!
Great video. Do you have any experience with completely replacing the arm with a third party tonearm? Is the auto-cueing circuitry intergral to the turntable operation or can it be by-passed? I have an Audio Oragami modded Rega arm that I'd like to try on a Technics direct drive deck. Something like a SL-150 would obviously be a better choice but they are hard to find. Plus there is a nice looking SL-1600 mk2 for sale locally for a good price.
I have not tried to do that with o e of these. The VTA adjustment might make a swap difficult, let alone the automation. There are other TTs out there that lend themselves better, bit of course anything is possible.
Nice work. You do not need to desolder anything to disable the muting switch. The switch must be screwed in at the center of its hole just put it on obe side completely and it will not be used.
@@AmorphousAudio could you explain what he means by "screwed in at the center of it's hole" and how to place the switch "all the way on one side"? Thanks
@@AmorphousAudio nvm I was able to figure it out after I took it apart. Thanks for the video it was really helpful. For anybody curious the plastic piece that the switch is clipped into is held in place by a screw, but the plastic piece has a large hole that allows for some play. If you slide the plastic all the way to one side, the switch won't be pushed far enough and therefore won't engage the mute switch.
For transparent records You can put a pen lid over the infra red post. Just remember to take it back off, or You could accidentally start it with no record in place.
Hello, very good video of the 1600 mk2. I have the 1700 mk2 and it has the following fault. When the arm returns, it falls from its support and many times the needle has been damaged. The antiskating does not work well, it tends to go outside and not to the center. I would very much appreciate your help ..... greetings and thanks !!!
It sounds like the mech needs to be disassembled and inspected. The return doesn't have an adjustment per se. It just moves the arm back more than required and uses the stop on the arm rest to halt it. If it is coming up short, then there is probably some slippage of the automation. The anti skating is a light spring that tugs back on the arm. Make sure it is in place and undamaged.
This is why I just got an SL-1600 Mk 1. I’ve got a pair of SL-1210S FOR DJing, but I also enjoy just listening to an album. I stole one of my 1210s for home use, but the full manual is just a massive pain when you’re not standing over it. The amount of times I’ve gone ‘oh shit, that’s been spinning on the lead out groove for x minutes’. Full auto is bliss! The trouble is, most modern TTs that have it are total crap, so worth getting a tidy one of these from eBay and having it serviced, for the same price as a modern one, and way better quality.
I hear ya. It's a lot like tape decks (and very soon, CD/DVD players). The only designs from the "golden age" that are still being manufactured are the ones that were the cheapest to produce. If you want a full auto TT of any decent quality, you pretty much have to go vintage.
That said, there are MANY new full manual TTs being produced now there are of very good quality. The prices of many of them are kind of bonkers, but only when you compare to the adjusted prices of yore. Although I'm sure they do some decent volumes, they are not making millions of them. That said, I'm sure they are making a good buck on them besides.
Amorphous Audio Yeah, and of course Technics released all those updated 1210s a few years back, but they are only a bit updated and bloody expensive. Again, even if I didn’t want an automatic, I’d go for a tidy, used 1210 as it’s very similar to the new ones and way cheaper. Most ‘boutique’ turntables aren’t all that, considering how much they charge for them. Even Linn Sondek et al. It’s all marketing and hype, from companies that don’t have even a fraction of the R & D budget, manufacturing technology and financial resources of someone like Technics. That’s part of the reason they charge as much or more for an essentially inferior product, wrapped in a nice bit of wood 🙂
Question for you. My SL-1600MK2 has an audible hum when the tonearm is in motion. Used to be silent. Hum stops once the auto features are no longer engaged. I'm assuming the muting switch is not engaging, so I'm hearing 60hz hum from the servo motors? What does the switch look like? Is it possible to access it with just the platter and plastic shrowd off? Or do I have to completely dismantle the deck?
Well, I have no hum on mine and I explicitly disabled the mute switch. It sounds to me like there is a grounding issue of some sort. Does the ground wire between your TT and preamp have continuity? It's also possible that some internal ground fault has occurred such that the automatic works motor is inducing hum in the tonearm wiring.
Kudos on choosing a great great cartridge . Penny for penny naggies a kicking ass and taking names . (Until u get up over the 500$ mark anyway) . Nice job 👍💯 Subbed
Hi there... I just bought this unit, the belt was perished and I replaced it, but my issue is that it takes ages to lift the arm... usually, I press start, the arm starts to lift, then the lever falls and the unit stops. Even to cue, or when the record reaches the end, it takes log time for the arm to lift. I can hear the tonearm motor work immediatelly, but it the arms lifts really slowly. Tried several measures of belts. The small white gear is cracked but stills in one piece. I applied a 9V power suply to motor and the arm lifting is faster. It may be something electronic or related to voltage, or it can be up/down movement of the arm needing grease? BTW, great video :)
Hmm, it could be a lubrication issue with the cam wheel that is under the big gear/clutch. Perhaps the clutch is slipping as the pin tries to spin that cam wheel.
@@AmorphousAudio It was the lubrication of a black wheel (on my version turntable) that moves the arm up/down. As it was sticky, the rubber grey wheel just turned mostly in vain, making all movements very slow. I lubricated it and now it works like a charm ;) Thanks, if it wasn't your video, I would have never gone so far!
Thank you so much for the video! I have a problem with my 1600 mk2 that has been "idle" for many years: only one channel works. I changed the cartrige and RCA cables but the problem is not solved. Do you have any suggestions? Greetings from Italy!
Theres not much to the audio path. My guess would be the tonearm wiring or perhaps an issue with the muting circuit which I disconnected in this video.
Excellent video. I have one of these from the video but the automatic mechanism is not working. I believe one of the gears is broken. Would you know where I could buy gears for this model? Or would you have the gears' measurement specifications? Thanks !
Zombie comment... The mute circuit is adjustable under the tonearm base grey rubber plug per the Owners manual, and can I believe, be adjusted completely off. The lead in lead out position also needs to be adjusted.
Mine was very used sadly. The little white gear is cracked and has alot of play which causes different needledrop positions every time. It is a big flaw of 1600mk2. Also the arm lift button switch was so badly worn out i had to glue a gum washer to it to keep working again. Plus plinth needs repainting and i dont know anyone who does it here.
@@AmorphousAudio its ok. I'm waiting for new gear and arm lifter to arrive to repair and sell it. I found a mint condition one for about $300. Great price here in Europe. With original box. Looks like it was ex demo model in a store.
Hi friend I hope you can help me my 1600 mk2 turntable when it goes in and out of the disk it produces a hum (when it lowers the cueing completely) I checked the external and internal wiring, the switsh mute etc and nothing Do you have any ideas or would you hate to help me? regards
Which phono preamp are you using? I know that the Schitt Mani sends a small loading voltage back to the turntable that causes a hum when the auto mute function engages.
Very little difference with the 1700 model.... I hope whoever has this model has many more years of enjoyment...... Happy holidays to you and those close to you............
Yes, there is an adjustment screw hidden behind a rubber plug near the tonearm pivot. It's a very touchy adjustment, so some trial and error will be needed.
@Amorphous Audio Great video! It made it much easier to disassemble and troubleshoot. My turntable is experiencing some erratic arm movement. Sometimes it goes all the way to the label, and wont stop, and sometimes it drops on the lead in groove and won't return. I removed the tonearm and looked at the gear assembly, and it seems the smaller gear isn't moving correctly when it moves up and down. In 27:20 of your video, the gear moves on its own smoothly up and down, but mine appears to stick to the larger gear when it moves. It seems to rotate fine. Here is my gear in action: ua-cam.com/video/6VDnEFuG3gI/v-deo.html. Do you think the small gear needs to be replaced because of a small hairline crack, or is it just old lube or a problem with parts behind the gears? Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks!
Yes, you are right. These are actually the transport screws, which I did not mention in the video. I keep them in place as it reduces the bounciness of the table. Due to it's current location, the floor is not very stable and the record can skip when someone walks by when the screws are out.
Probably a grounding issue. Is the ground cable connected to the ground terminal on your preamp/receiver? Next thing to check would be if your ground cable is even functional. Grab a multimeter, set it to continuity mode, and check the end of the ground cable for continuity with the ground points inside the turntable. If there is a continuity break, theres your problem. Fix the break or replace the cable if needed.
Great Video, but it seems that you haven't remove the transport screws... check installation manual there's 3 screws under the platter that are for transport, preventing the suspension to operate. once installed they should be removed.
Yes, I leave the transport screws in because the springs are too bouncy for the location where this TT currently is used. The floor moves when people walk by and the table is more stable with the screws in than when they are out.
I guess you know you won't get any sound if the small rubber v-groove belt under the tone is broken.. it turns on the sound when the cue drops down towards the the record groove.
Hello there. This video is more than useful to get a clear idea of what to check on this model to get the automation working properly. I am the owner of a Technics model that feature exactly the same automation motor assembly and used your video to see how parts are designed and assembled. It's a SL Q33, pretty rare on the second hand market. Unfortunately, and despite my efforts following the vid, I could'nt get my turn table to perform automation as it should. I have replaced the old cracked little gear like everybody ( I made à stock for thèse one, so if you need one...), also changed the belt, and controlled the state of the roller, checked the movement of the plate and the cam underneath. The mechanism still refuse to perform. I would need to exchange with you by emails, cause I think you may well be one of the rare personn on earth to be able to clearly understand this mechanism and deal with parts. Is It possible to have your e-mail or can I give you mine? Last, I am not uneasy with Japanese micro engineering but still don't get how this assembly can work ( frictions forces on the big white gear just make me headaches : how does this thing is supposed to rotate and spin the Arm through the rubber when shaft underneath moves the cam to a fix position). There must be something I don't get. It would be much better if we could have a discussion by mail. Thank you by advance. Ben
@@AmorphousAudio Thank you. No problem for the delay. I have finally managed to understand the complete mechanism (particularly the friction clutch in the big white wheel). I have been able to clean it like you do and reset the friction to an amount that seems to be ok (after several attempts, unassembling, settings, and reassembling, whithout taking all the mechanism off, just the pieces which needed to) : It works now as it should and the arm positionning is ok even with 45 T and led detection too. What is still annoying me is the non OEM replacement belt that seems to create kind of "grease" by slow desintegrating, but I have just received a new Technics OEM, so once everyything propperly cleaned, it should work perfectly now on my SLQ33. Groovy!
Yes, I don't fully understand why i had to reset the tension on that clutch. It seemed quite excessive, bit it did the trick and the TT has been working flawlessly ever since. I use it often.
10:11 those 4 screws are just for the purpose of safeguarding the floating subchassis during transportation, otherwise they should no be there. You really should have not put those back... it disables the subchassis.
Yes, I am aware of that now (see other comments). However I keep the transport screws in place on this TT because it actually makes it more stable in the location I currently have it (due to a bouncy floor).
@@AmorphousAudio Recently I have repaired two of these... it was really thorough restoration, all the gadgetry had to go out of the tonearm assembly, as the grease in the VTA mechanism had solidified and stuck. Also the sprocket in the gear assembly disintegrated, so a new one came form USA, and a new belt. It was not an ordinary job to assemble it back, but the tricky part was to calibrate everything that had to be calibrated, starting with the tonearm VTA platform, the antiskating, the optical sensors, the slip clutch, and finally the muting switch, the one you have disconnected, but I have found it rather useful. Even the IR sensor had to be adjusted as it was not very reliable anymore. I have also replaced 26 of the 28 electrolytic capacitors, this was an anti-ageing procedure. At the very final stage I have discovered that the springs holding the floating assembly had weaken over time and it was literally sitting on the belly. It could be adjusted using 7mm wrench, so I did. Only then the turntable started to behave the way it was expected to. I suppose this might be also your case, as the floating subchassis is usually more resistant to the bouncy floor than a fixed one. ua-cam.com/video/0X1g5-1Vxrs/v-deo.html
I think fully manual is the best because you HAVE to get up, stop it and put the record back in its sleeve, not just letting the record sit on the platter collecting dust until you can be bothered to get up and it put back in it's sleeve!
I love this TT.... been having it for a few years and ida absolutely amazing. Love the fact that you can repeat your albums too... super nice TT! I sent it I’ve to Royalcraft to get a custom base, service and painted
Fascinating stuff as always. Good video, Russ!
Thanks, Jeff!
Thanks for this video. I have been restoring a nice SL-1700 and this helped a lot!
Glad to help!
My jewel, I own one since 1980 and it still work as the first day.
Recently installed an Ortofon Quintet Black S cartridge that sounds great.
I watch your video. Very informative. The 4 blue screws with the felt washers are transport screws. They are to be removed when ready to use. I finally picked up a SL-1600 MK II yesterday. It was in great condition, just had to clean it up inside and out. The seller had a bag of accessories which included the transport screws, 45 adapter, auxiliary weight, plug adapters, original cable ties, limited warranty paper and Panasonic service paper
Yep, I realized they were transport screws after someone pointed it out. The TT is actually more stable with them installed in on the rack I have it on, mainly due to the bouncy floor under it.
Glad you made this.. I replaced the belt on my 1700mk2 looks just like that one. I think I’ll add a connector like you did. So far mine still works fine. Without any alteration if the belt ever breaks you’ll get no sound trying to use it manually.
Glad you got it working!
Nice tools you use. Very professional
Thanks for watching!
This series of Technics are well known for their great sound - HOWEVER, the one thing I am a big fan of modern audiophile tables is the simplicity of them - after fixing a few tables I just lost patience for these great decks. Very interesting video!
The automation is quite convenient and worth the hassle in my opinion. You are right about simplicity, though. I've never had to do a single thing to my 1200. As for modern decks...it's true that keeping them simple makes them reliable. However when I look at what you get for what they charge, I just can't get passed the fact that it's a plank of MDF, a bearing, a platter, a motor, and a tonearm. They are not mass produced to the scale of the vintage stuff, which accounts for some of the price difference. However like many LP pressing today, the quality and consistency also suffers. We will never see turn tables build like this ever again.
It is a great turntable - I've been using mine for four years now. What I noticed recently is that if you raise the arm lift and try to pull the tonearm manually onto the record, the mechanism poses some risistance. The tonearm doesn't move freely and you have to apply some force to push it to the position above the platter. The resistance disappears completely once you lower the armlift - then the tonearm moves freely.
The serviceman says it's a normal thing connected with the functioning of the break which is part of the mechanism. He cleaned and re-greased the mechanism and things improved a bit (now at least there's no scratching noise when pulling the tonearm with raised armlift), but I'm fairly sure the tonearm used to operate with less or no resistance when I started using this turntable.
You are correct. There should be very little resistance when you bring the tonearm from its rest over to the platter, regardless if you have the cuing lever up or down.
You fantastic star. Loved your video and importantly I will be investing in this turntable. Your mindset is why I say fantastic star. An engineer and reverse engineer is a fine skill and you demonstrate both. I am a watch maker hobbyist and the skills are similar. I have your efforts, that were successful, to thank as it takes away the mystery you must have felt as you dug deaper into this service.
Just bought one, waiting on parts, eagerly awaiting lift off.
I just finished refurbishing an SL 1600 MK2 your video really helped, however one BIG POINT the 4 screws you take out initially are TRANSPORT SCREWS they are not needed, I suppose since you kept in storage for a while it makes sense to have them however not needed in every day operation actually they disable the suspension... I see at the end you installed them back ... it is actually described in the manual to remove and store elsewhere. Thank you for a great video !
Yes, I figured that out after making the video. :) I actually left mine in because the place where I have this setup has a very bouncy floor. It's more stable without the suspension. I will mention this in a follow-up video, if I ever have to take this one apart again to replace that cracked gear.
hi @Amorphous Audio, I've watched this video a few times and it has been very useful in helping me restore on old 1600 MK2 I picked up on Facebook. I'm a complete beginner when it comes to this but thought it would be a fun project with the possibility of learning at least a new skill or two. I've taken the table apart and clean the front button contacts with deoxit and replaced the the cue belt. the optical sensor post was also broken so I bought a used one on ebay. it was also missing the original rubber mat, I found someone on Etsy that made me one out of cork with the cutouts needed for the LED's. the last piece I bought was a replacement tonearm counterweight as it did not come with one. I'm now a bit stumped. the turntable turns on as expected, I hit the start button and the platter begins to spin, the cue function begins but instead of placing the needle at the edge of the record, it places it in the middle, lowers the needle, and then stops spinning. I'm guessing I'm going to have to crack it open again and disassemble the tone arm. I think I can do it following your video although I really wouldn't know that to look for. Could I bug you for some advice? here is a link to the behavior. ua-cam.com/video/U-MZ5HkA1rU/v-deo.html Thank you!
HelloJuan! Hello@Amorphous Audio Have you found any solution of this circumstance? I have apporx same one problem with my 1600MK2. But tonearm in my case is placing needle at the end of LP. Then spinning stops and then tonearm returnes back to the holder like it was autostop function realize. ((
That is a strange behavior. Have you tried searching for the service manual? It sound like perhaps the automatic works is not indexed correctly with the position of the tonearm or one or more of the position sensors is not working. I would lean towards the former...the TT thinks the middle of the record is where the arm rest is.
@@olegz8660 I have not resolved this yet. I actually put the project on hold because I was stumped and didn’t want risk causing more damage. I’m hoping to jump back in in the next couple of weeks.
@@AmorphousAudio thank you so much for your reply. I found a couple of versions of the service manual. I’ll focus on your suggestion and report back.
@@counter5thhi! My 1600 mk 2 has basically the same issue, whenever it feels like it , cues on the center label and ocasionally when it cues on the edge, it stops spinning. Have you found the solution?
One of my favorite and best sounding decks, I have the 1610 MK 2. Same turntable in dark grey...sold in Europe. I will attempt the fix shown in the video. Im determined to make it work. It sounds as nice as some more expensive decks I own...Thorens and Denon.
Dried grease is a problem... especially on the fully automatic decks. I was able to salvage a perfectly good SL1900 by cleaning gears and levers and lubing. The 1900 is a bit of a sleeper. Not as good as the 1200 - 1800, but still well made with some sort of metal alloy bottom.
Most of these were made to a very high standard. The years have not been kind to the lithium grease and old plastics used inside, however.
Hello Sir. I picked up one of these today at a local thrift shop. I wouldn't say I got it really cheap since these thrift shops now have a special section..I'm sure they do some research and price accordingly. It's in great shape and they let me hook it up to test it.The auto play function doesn't seem to work, but it does play great manually. i'm hoping its the belt you mentioned in your video. The lever mechanism to lift the arm is also stuck. I probably won't run into one of these ever again, so I went ahead and purchased it knowing its flaws. Your video was very helpful and now I might just take a look inside. If its over my head I can hopefully find somebody to work on it. For now it works great as manual 1200. Thanks again
Great find! I never have any luck with the thrift stores around here. I think people "in the know" get to the good stuff before it ever hits the shelves. Hopefully you can get it working again!
I was able to replace the belt looked like it dissolved many years ago. It's working great again. It's a sweet turntable, definitely a keeper. Thanks again for you videos
Thanks for sharing this. What a coincidence, I was just going to do an a/b test between the phono preamp of my integrated and an external one, which happens to be a schiit mani. So I will have to disable the muting circuit. Another thing that happens to me is that in order for the spinning rate to be correct (according to the strobe) I have to raise the pitch a couple of points. I guess it is because the capacitors are no longer at their original values. Another thing I am going to do is to modify the RCA cables for better quality shielded ones, there is a very detailed tutorial on youtube. Greetings from the Basque Country.
Great Video. Thanks!! 🙏
I just get one of this TT and have the same issue when the arm return to the stop position..I will do the service and I hope to run with the same luck!..😬 Regards!
Good luck and thanks for watching!
Gran trabajo, felicitaciones, sueño con tener esa tornamesa,.
Thanks!
My Grandfather had one of these when i was a kid and i LOVED this turntable and i am still looking for one, but getting a SL1200 mkII 3 weeks ago for $18 gives me hope i might find one of these
An SL1200mk2 for $18 is an insane bargain. Those days are long over, so you got seriously lucky!
@@AmorphousAudio I felt that way too when I saw it in the pictures of was for sale on the Estate sale listing I though it was a knock off, but went to the sale anyway just to get some records but when I saw in person I knew it was real, then I saw the $18 sticker on I Scooped it up while the rest of the crowd was still looking at the records
The tone arm mechanism looks a little intimidating. Compared to the 1200 series. Easy to work with.
Great video! How did you disable the muting circuit?
Just scored one of these and it's working great! only thing that's not working is the repeat function - the button does nothing at all. Do you have any idea what the issue might be?
I did SL-1600mk2 full rebuild in 2017, in the 17:54, i saw the small white gear was cracked same as mine. Closer look will see two black cracks from center to the edge, need to replace
i do try found the replacement parts in internet, but not easy. finally I was replace as a M5 32T center hole 4mm coppers gear, work fine until today.
I'll have to look at that more closely.
Hi, thank you for the great video! With mine, the tonearm will sometimes not lift up totally at the end of the record or when I press start/stop (it will stall, half way), but with the cue button it lifts up perfectly.
And whenever it fully rises at the end the tonearm, while returning, the tonearm will "take a break or two" half way, and start returning again till it reaches the tonearm rest and then it descends.
Also the "repeat" function drops the tonearm outside the record. Do you think this has to do with the shaft (the issue you have shown here) or should it need a new small gear wheel(mine seems to show some minor cracks?), or something else?
I would be really grateful for any help! :)
Thank you so much!
Looks like my Technics sl 1800 mk2 1977-1981.
Great video! Quick question: when you disconnected the blue wires from the power supply, does it matter in how you reconnect them? I am in the process of doing this and I can't figure if it matters how the 2 leads get connected back to the board: they're both blue and they look the same!
As pulezan said, the arrangement of the AC wires doesn't matter in this situation.
Wonderful video and insight into the mechanisms of these turntables. Mine has a different problem where the tonearm would return and bounce off the rest post slightly before the motor stops. May be you have an idea about what the cause is. Hopefully it's not something todo with the electronic control.
The issue sounds mechanical. Something is either out of adjustment or bent.
Hello
your video has been of great help for the maintenance of my TT 1600 mk2. thanks for that!!!
I wanted to consult you that I see in the video that the internal transformer of your TT is not the original one ... did you replace it? Or did you change the coverage?
My transformer is getting very hot and I would like to repair it or replace it. If you have any help for my situation, I thank you.
cheers
No, it is the original transformer. Is your transformer the correct one for your line voltage? A Japanese 100V unit will work on 120V, but it will run hot.
Great turntable! Man, but only 3 views? I guess I'm the only one who likes this TT!
Haha...well I just posted it publicly the other day. Glad you enjoyed it!
Vinyl City I do not own one of this tt’s but I found this vid very informative.
Thanks for sharing.
Thank you very much. !
You are welcome!
I have a 1700MK-II. I really want to get it fully serviced to get it sounding the best. I've had it for about 5 years now.
The main thing that concerns me is that the tonearm can be turned left to right, pretty sure it should have zero movement in that direction. Would this be something loose underneath or bad bearings? Is it something that can be fixed or would it need a new tonearm? I know the 1200 arms can be used.
Strangest issue is that when powered off, the 33 light is still illuminated and never goes out. It just dulls. The power switch is a bit sluggish feeling, could this be that the power switch is not disengaging fully due to gummed up grease?
Awesome video by the way!
There are adjustments on most tonearms to tighten any play in the pivots. Normally it is best not to touch these, but I would inspect it closely to see where the play is exactly and go from there. As far as the power not turning off, that is a bit strange. It must be bridging across the switch somehow, though I don't recall exactly where the power switch is in the power supply circuit.
Greetings Andres, it is a pleasure to deal with a connoisseur of turntable repair and maintenance, the truth is that I really want to learn how to repair them and why not restore them ... I'll tell you my grandfather gave me a Technis SL 1900, it turned on but the turntable didn't turn. It is a direct motor but can you tell me how I can solve it or the possible failures for which this turntable does not turn? I thank you.
Got this TT from a guy who serviced it. He put a new tonearm belt & gear . Cleaned & lubed it. Buffed dust cover. Put a US transformer to replace Japanese transformer. Plays great with Shure
Wow, nice. Enjoy!
As far as I know, the screws with the blue feltwashers are just Security screws for transporting the Deck and are for defeating the Suspension of the subchassis. So leave them Out for use. But this Video came just right for me as I am facing some Problems with the lift of this turntable, and now I am Feeling encouraged to take a look INSIDE. Just afraid of finding some broken parts,because Mine mechanism is doing some very unpleasent noises and the Tonearm is moving and jumping while Lifting Up and down😑
Hah, you are right! I have no idea why I didn't realize that. My SL-1600 (non-mk2) has shipping screws there as well. I guess I just didn't think through how the suspension worked. After reading this, I took them out for a while but ended up putting them back in. This TT is in my office on top of an Ikea shelf that isn't terribly stable. The non-mk2 SL-1600 tended to skip when someone walked by the shelf. The slight movement of the floor made the shelf wiggle a bit which made the suspension bounce around. The 1200-mk2 didn't do this and neither does the 1600-mk2 when the suspension is clamped down. So I guess I will be keeping them in there, but thanks for the tip!
Great video. Do you have any experience with completely replacing the arm with a third party tonearm? Is the auto-cueing circuitry intergral to the turntable operation or can it be by-passed? I have an Audio Oragami modded Rega arm that I'd like to try on a Technics direct drive deck. Something like a SL-150 would obviously be a better choice but they are hard to find. Plus there is a nice looking SL-1600 mk2 for sale locally for a good price.
I have not tried to do that with o e of these. The VTA adjustment might make a swap difficult, let alone the automation. There are other TTs out there that lend themselves better, bit of course anything is possible.
@pulezan Moot point for me now. Went for a Denon DP80 instead.
Nice work. You do not need to desolder anything to disable the muting switch. The switch must be screwed in at the center of its hole just put it on obe side completely and it will not be used.
Cool trick. I didn't notice that. Thanks!
@@AmorphousAudio could you explain what he means by "screwed in at the center of it's hole" and how to place the switch "all the way on one side"? Thanks
@@AmorphousAudio nvm I was able to figure it out after I took it apart. Thanks for the video it was really helpful. For anybody curious the plastic piece that the switch is clipped into is held in place by a screw, but the plastic piece has a large hole that allows for some play. If you slide the plastic all the way to one side, the switch won't be pushed far enough and therefore won't engage the mute switch.
Thank you 🎵
For transparent records You can put a pen lid over the infra red post. Just remember to take it back off, or You could accidentally start it with no record in place.
Great tip!
Hello, very good video of the 1600 mk2. I have the 1700 mk2 and it has the following fault. When the arm returns, it falls from its support and many times the needle has been damaged. The antiskating does not work well, it tends to go outside and not to the center. I would very much appreciate your help ..... greetings and thanks !!!
It sounds like the mech needs to be disassembled and inspected. The return doesn't have an adjustment per se. It just moves the arm back more than required and uses the stop on the arm rest to halt it. If it is coming up short, then there is probably some slippage of the automation. The anti skating is a light spring that tugs back on the arm. Make sure it is in place and undamaged.
This is why I just got an SL-1600 Mk 1. I’ve got a pair of SL-1210S FOR DJing, but I also enjoy just listening to an album. I stole one of my 1210s for home use, but the full manual is just a massive pain when you’re not standing over it. The amount of times I’ve gone ‘oh shit, that’s been spinning on the lead out groove for x minutes’. Full auto is bliss! The trouble is, most modern TTs that have it are total crap, so worth getting a tidy one of these from eBay and having it serviced, for the same price as a modern one, and way better quality.
I hear ya. It's a lot like tape decks (and very soon, CD/DVD players). The only designs from the "golden age" that are still being manufactured are the ones that were the cheapest to produce. If you want a full auto TT of any decent quality, you pretty much have to go vintage.
That said, there are MANY new full manual TTs being produced now there are of very good quality. The prices of many of them are kind of bonkers, but only when you compare to the adjusted prices of yore. Although I'm sure they do some decent volumes, they are not making millions of them. That said, I'm sure they are making a good buck on them besides.
Amorphous Audio Yeah, and of course Technics released all those updated 1210s a few years back, but they are only a bit updated and bloody expensive. Again, even if I didn’t want an automatic, I’d go for a tidy, used 1210 as it’s very similar to the new ones and way cheaper. Most ‘boutique’ turntables aren’t all that, considering how much they charge for them. Even Linn Sondek et al. It’s all marketing and hype, from companies that don’t have even a fraction of the R & D budget, manufacturing technology and financial resources of someone like Technics. That’s part of the reason they charge as much or more for an essentially inferior product, wrapped in a nice bit of wood 🙂
Question for you. My SL-1600MK2 has an audible hum when the tonearm is in motion. Used to be silent. Hum stops once the auto features are no longer engaged.
I'm assuming the muting switch is not engaging, so I'm hearing 60hz hum from the servo motors?
What does the switch look like? Is it possible to access it with just the platter and plastic shrowd off? Or do I have to completely dismantle the deck?
Well, I have no hum on mine and I explicitly disabled the mute switch. It sounds to me like there is a grounding issue of some sort. Does the ground wire between your TT and preamp have continuity? It's also possible that some internal ground fault has occurred such that the automatic works motor is inducing hum in the tonearm wiring.
The SL-1610 MK2 is the best consumer turntable ever made by Technics.
Kudos on choosing a great great cartridge . Penny for penny naggies a kicking ass and taking names . (Until u get up over the 500$ mark anyway) . Nice job 👍💯
Subbed
Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!
Hi there... I just bought this unit, the belt was perished and I replaced it, but my issue is that it takes ages to lift the arm... usually, I press start, the arm starts to lift, then the lever falls and the unit stops. Even to cue, or when the record reaches the end, it takes log time for the arm to lift. I can hear the tonearm motor work immediatelly, but it the arms lifts really slowly. Tried several measures of belts. The small white gear is cracked but stills in one piece. I applied a 9V power suply to motor and the arm lifting is faster. It may be something electronic or related to voltage, or it can be up/down movement of the arm needing grease? BTW, great video :)
Hmm, it could be a lubrication issue with the cam wheel that is under the big gear/clutch. Perhaps the clutch is slipping as the pin tries to spin that cam wheel.
@@AmorphousAudio It was the lubrication of a black wheel (on my version turntable) that moves the arm up/down. As it was sticky, the rubber grey wheel just turned mostly in vain, making all movements very slow. I lubricated it and now it works like a charm ;) Thanks, if it wasn't your video, I would have never gone so far!
@@Gajodareactividade Glad you got it all fixed up! A well oiled machine is always so satisfying....
Hello
what a great video !!!
what lubricant to use for the metal parts (the red one)
cheers
The oil I use on metal parts is synthetic "sewing machine" oil. Works well on capstans too.
@@AmorphousAudio Thank you!!
and the blue tube lubricant?
I'm repairing my TT too
cheers
The stuff in the blue tube was red thread locker from Permatex. It was to keep the brass nut from backing off when the clutch slipped.
Thank you so much for the video! I have a problem with my 1600 mk2 that has been "idle" for many years: only one channel works. I changed the cartrige and RCA cables but the problem is not solved. Do you have any suggestions? Greetings from Italy!
Theres not much to the audio path. My guess would be the tonearm wiring or perhaps an issue with the muting circuit which I disconnected in this video.
I had same issue.. Needed to clean the contact between the tonearm and the headshell (two pins)
The RCA cables are crimped very tight in the back. Common failure point. Just replace the RCAs and you should be good to go.
Excellent video. I have one of these from the video but the automatic mechanism is not working. I believe one of the gears is broken. Would you know where I could buy gears for this model? Or would you have the gears' measurement specifications? Thanks !
There is a gear that tends to crack. Mine also has a small crack in it. Search eBay for "1600 mk2 Tonearm Gear Replacement". They run ~$10.
@@AmorphousAudio Thaks !
Zombie comment... The mute circuit is adjustable under the tonearm base grey rubber plug per the Owners manual, and can I believe, be adjusted completely off. The lead in lead out position also needs to be adjusted.
That mother board looks identical to the SL 1200 mk2.
Mine was very used sadly. The little white gear is cracked and has alot of play which causes different needledrop positions every time. It is a big flaw of 1600mk2. Also the arm lift button switch was so badly worn out i had to glue a gum washer to it to keep working again. Plus plinth needs repainting and i dont know anyone who does it here.
Sounds like it's got some miles on it. Yes, the plastic parts do not last forever. Heat and time cause them to shrink and crack.
@@AmorphousAudio its ok. I'm waiting for new gear and arm lifter to arrive to repair and sell it. I found a mint condition one for about $300. Great price here in Europe. With original box. Looks like it was ex demo model in a store.
Wow, that is a great deal! I was lucky to find one in good shape as well back in the day. Some of the ebay samples I see these days are pretty beat.
Hi friend
I hope you can help me
my 1600 mk2 turntable when it goes in and out of the disk it produces a hum (when it lowers the cueing completely)
I checked the external and internal wiring, the switsh mute etc and nothing
Do you have any ideas or would you hate to help me?
regards
Which phono preamp are you using? I know that the Schitt Mani sends a small loading voltage back to the turntable that causes a hum when the auto mute function engages.
Very little difference with the 1700 model.... I hope whoever has this model has many more years of enjoyment...... Happy holidays to you and those close to you............
I have this same exact turntable. Lately I have been noticing that when I play 45s, the auto return starts early. Do you know how I can fix this?
Yes, there is an adjustment screw hidden behind a rubber plug near the tonearm pivot. It's a very touchy adjustment, so some trial and error will be needed.
@Amorphous Audio Great video! It made it much easier to disassemble and troubleshoot. My turntable is experiencing some erratic arm movement. Sometimes it goes all the way to the label, and wont stop, and sometimes it drops on the lead in groove and won't return. I removed the tonearm and looked at the gear assembly, and it seems the smaller gear isn't moving correctly when it moves up and down. In 27:20 of your video, the gear moves on its own smoothly up and down, but mine appears to stick to the larger gear when it moves. It seems to rotate fine. Here is my gear in action: ua-cam.com/video/6VDnEFuG3gI/v-deo.html. Do you think the small gear needs to be replaced because of a small hairline crack, or is it just old lube or a problem with parts behind the gears? Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks!
Who could check mine? It is not working properly
thank you
You're welcome
Sacale los cuatro tornillos de transporte (debajo del plato) el conjunto debe flotar. caso contrario tendrás rumble en el sistema.
Yes, you are right. These are actually the transport screws, which I did not mention in the video. I keep them in place as it reduces the bounciness of the table. Due to it's current location, the floor is not very stable and the record can skip when someone walks by when the screws are out.
Why does my technics turntable sl-1700mk2 hum?
Probably a grounding issue. Is the ground cable connected to the ground terminal on your preamp/receiver? Next thing to check would be if your ground cable is even functional. Grab a multimeter, set it to continuity mode, and check the end of the ground cable for continuity with the ground points inside the turntable. If there is a continuity break, theres your problem. Fix the break or replace the cable if needed.
Possibly a grounding issue. Are you using the extra ground to your preamp?
Great Video, but it seems that you haven't remove the transport screws... check installation manual there's 3 screws under the platter that are for transport, preventing the suspension to operate. once installed they should be removed.
Yes, I leave the transport screws in because the springs are too bouncy for the location where this TT currently is used. The floor moves when people walk by and the table is more stable with the screws in than when they are out.
I guess you know you won't get any sound if the small rubber v-groove belt under the tone is broken.. it turns on the sound when the cue drops down towards the the record groove.
Made in the late 70s early
eighties, correct?
The Mk2 was more 80s, I believe.
Hello there.
This video is more than useful to get a clear idea of what to check on this model to get the automation working properly.
I am the owner of a Technics model that feature exactly the same automation motor assembly and used your video to see how parts are designed and assembled.
It's a SL Q33, pretty rare on the second hand market.
Unfortunately, and despite my efforts following the vid, I could'nt get my turn table to perform automation as it should.
I have replaced the old cracked little gear like everybody ( I made à stock for thèse one, so if you need one...), also changed the belt, and controlled the state of the roller, checked the movement of the plate and the cam underneath.
The mechanism still refuse to perform.
I would need to exchange with you by emails, cause I think you may well be one of the rare personn on earth to be able to clearly understand this mechanism and deal with parts.
Is It possible to have your e-mail or can I give you mine?
Last, I am not uneasy with Japanese micro engineering but still don't get how this assembly can work ( frictions forces on the big white gear just make me headaches : how does this thing is supposed to rotate and spin the Arm through the rubber when shaft underneath moves the cam to a fix position). There must be something I don't get.
It would be much better if we could have a discussion by mail.
Thank you by advance.
Ben
Sorry for the late reply. My email should be in the about section on my channel.
@@AmorphousAudio Thank you. No problem for the delay. I have finally managed to understand the complete mechanism (particularly the friction clutch in the big white wheel). I have been able to clean it like you do and reset the friction to an amount that seems to be ok (after several attempts, unassembling, settings, and reassembling, whithout taking all the mechanism off, just the pieces which needed to) : It works now as it should and the arm positionning is ok even with 45 T and led detection too.
What is still annoying me is the non OEM replacement belt that seems to create kind of "grease" by slow desintegrating, but I have just received a new Technics OEM, so once everyything propperly cleaned, it should work perfectly now on my SLQ33. Groovy!
Yes, I don't fully understand why i had to reset the tension on that clutch. It seemed quite excessive, bit it did the trick and the TT has been working flawlessly ever since. I use it often.
10:11 those 4 screws are just for the purpose of safeguarding the floating subchassis during transportation, otherwise they should no be there. You really should have not put those back... it disables the subchassis.
Yes, I am aware of that now (see other comments). However I keep the transport screws in place on this TT because it actually makes it more stable in the location I currently have it (due to a bouncy floor).
@@AmorphousAudio Recently I have repaired two of these... it was really thorough restoration, all the gadgetry had to go out of the tonearm assembly, as the grease in the VTA mechanism had solidified and stuck. Also the sprocket in the gear assembly disintegrated, so a new one came form USA, and a new belt. It was not an ordinary job to assemble it back, but the tricky part was to calibrate everything that had to be calibrated, starting with the tonearm VTA platform, the antiskating, the optical sensors, the slip clutch, and finally the muting switch, the one you have disconnected, but I have found it rather useful. Even the IR sensor had to be adjusted as it was not very reliable anymore. I have also replaced 26 of the 28 electrolytic capacitors, this was an anti-ageing procedure. At the very final stage I have discovered that the springs holding the floating assembly had weaken over time and it was literally sitting on the belly. It could be adjusted using 7mm wrench, so I did. Only then the turntable started to behave the way it was expected to. I suppose this might be also your case, as the floating subchassis is usually more resistant to the bouncy floor than a fixed one.
ua-cam.com/video/0X1g5-1Vxrs/v-deo.html
I think fully manual is the best because you HAVE to get up, stop it and put the record back in its sleeve, not just letting the record sit on the platter collecting dust until you can be bothered to get up and it put back in it's sleeve!
True. It is a toss up between collecting dust and leaving the stylus grinding away in the lead out for hours. :)
I have both the 1800mk2 and the 1700mkk2, and personally for me and at my age I much prefer the auto-return 1700mk2.
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