I really enjoy the well explained process of getting one of these older engines running! Some of us aren’t very keen with the points ignition systems 🤣
These are some of the best engines OMC ever built for sure. OMC would still be in business if they could have continued making them! I'm not sure I am following your secondary coil resistance tests, that should show several thousand ohms, your meter seemed to show zero ohms....Probably just a meter calibration issue, I'm guessing the coils are OK also. I'm with you, replace the condensers and the points, but please use the OEM parts, not aftermarket...Many complaints about the after market points for the OMCs. Condensers can and do go bad, especially with age. Points can be cleaned up and reused but everyone forgets the rubbing blocks get worn down which will make old points impossible to adjust correctly. Usually, it is just the spark plug boots/terminals that get rusted causing your meter to show an open circuit, although the coil end of the leads looked pretty lousy. I am wondering why it appears as though someone has "double gasketed" the thermostat, there is probably no thermostat in there. Removing the thermostat as a "band aid" to solve cooling issues is a mistake. The thermostat helps control water flow in the powerhead and makes sure the engine gets up to temperature. I would also take the time to remove the powerhead (if the bolts are not stuck), check for sloppy shift linkage, replace lower powerhead seal components and do a water pump job. From the dark blue color on the powerhead, I would have to agree, this engine is somewhere between at 1969-1972 model. With the right maintenance, it will still be purring along for another 50 years...
You are right when I check the coils I didn't have the spec. on that coil I just check to see it it had a open circuit. The spark plug wire was good about a inch and a half in on the top but then to short.
Looks like a 72,I have one I'm doing a full tune up on it. Points and condensers Plug wires Sparkplug terminals Carb repair kit Water pump impeller kit Coils.
I did find the tag on the engine 6002B if that is accurate it is a 1970. I am just getting ready to work on this motor again. It has run good for almost two years. It is starting to run ruff and quit. I think just a good tune up we will see. Thanks for commenting and Stay Well !!
Captain Jim, your multimeter looks just like mine, I have a Radio Shack one that is a kit I assembled, light blue in color, & im wondering if yours is black because it was factory wired, if it was?
I bought that same motor 75 bucks, ran good about 1 hour then lost power then died. 2 questions was that a decent price? And where would you start trouble shooting for the problem. Love your videos, and love working on this stuff even though I have no clue.
My son paid $65.00 for this one for that kind of money you can go wrong. The lower unit is worth more than that. I had problem getting OEM Points and condenser for it. The after market are not good at all. That is where I would check first for spark.
I have a 1970 Evunrude Fisherman 6hp yours looks identical to mine except the camo paint. If it's a 1970, it will have either a #6002B or #6003B on the tag. All these # for all years 1968 and up are available at, shop2.evinrude.com/Index.aspx?s1=bhufrunj5bpdri5qolalj3toe4&catalog_id=5&siteid=1 I hope this helps. Cheers
I've been working on bringing an old evinrude 1958 5.5hp fisherman back to life and did many replacements including a fuel line from dual to single. It keeps dying 2 seconds after starting though. Any suggestions? Should the fuel tank vent be open or closed, or does that matter?
Vent should be open. I had a motor that was doing that. I found the fuel line was sucking air. Make sure you connections are tight. Don't forget that the fuel tank can not be over 24 inches below the fuel pump.
@@OmFishing thanks for that bit of knowledge. I did not know that. It's more than 24" below currently. That could be why I am hardly getting but a drizzle of gas when I pull the starter and watch the pump outlet hose when it's not connected to the carb.
@@OmFishing So, I took your advice and shorted my fuel line by half, shorted the rest of my lines to my fuel tank conversion (by a bunch), took apart the pump that stopped working and got it going again, closed the low speed a bit...and it fired up for the very first time without dying! This 1958 Evinrude 5.5hp 5516 Fisherman is my first outboard I've ever worked on. Didnt even know what a point was going into it haha. Between your videos, and many others, I was able to get it knocked out! Feeling pretty good right now! Going to take it out tomorrow and see if it'll actually run on the water. I'll post the video and update ya. Thanks again!
@@OmFishing well, I couldn't get it to start that next day on the water. Go figure lol. However, I received my replacement pump and replaced the 1/4 fuel line with 5/32 (used the 5/32 fuel line on the pumps pulse too). I once again got it to run. Only with choke on and low speed idle less than 3/4 turn. I also have to barely vent my fuel tank. I can't take off the choke though. I almost can by tightening the low speed a little more or by closing the gas vent a little more. I haven't closed either all the way but believe it may allow me to remove the choke. What am I missing or doing wrong here? It's so close and I've spent so much time studying and watching videos to get my first motor going, but I can't seem to get this last step 100%. I believe its fair to say thats its still a fuel issue. I believe its having to do with the vacuum not being strong enough with the vent open. Any suggestions from you or your viewers would be great.
The one I am using is just a universal puller. I dump lucked on that one at a yard sale. If you look on ebay for OMC tools or out board tools they are on there.
Do you have an email that you can be reached at. I have a very specific question that adding a picture would be much better. Pertaining to my carb needle.
Like your content. Thanks!
Good video
I really enjoy the well explained process of getting one of these older engines running! Some of us aren’t very keen with the points ignition systems 🤣
Happy to help. Thanks for commenting and as always keep watching!
These are some of my favorite outboards
Those are some good old motors. They just keep going. Thanks for watching
Very descriptive and good video.
I bought one of those and the only way I figured out mine is between 1968 and 72 is by part numbers on top bracket on the rope pull starter.
yeah I just got the same engine few days ago, mine is a Evinrude 6hp fishermen
I know that there is a lot of hours left for fun and fishing in that old motor. Stay Safe!!
These are some of the best engines OMC ever built for sure. OMC would still be in business if they could have continued making them! I'm not sure I am following your secondary coil resistance tests, that should show several thousand ohms, your meter seemed to show zero ohms....Probably just a meter calibration issue, I'm guessing the coils are OK also. I'm with you, replace the condensers and the points, but please use the OEM parts, not aftermarket...Many complaints about the after market points for the OMCs. Condensers can and do go bad, especially with age. Points can be cleaned up and reused but everyone forgets the rubbing blocks get worn down which will make old points impossible to adjust correctly. Usually, it is just the spark plug boots/terminals that get rusted causing your meter to show an open circuit, although the coil end of the leads looked pretty lousy. I am wondering why it appears as though someone has "double gasketed" the thermostat, there is probably no thermostat in there. Removing the thermostat as a "band aid" to solve cooling issues is a mistake. The thermostat helps control water flow in the powerhead and makes sure the engine gets up to temperature. I would also take the time to remove the powerhead (if the bolts are not stuck), check for sloppy shift linkage, replace lower powerhead seal components and do a water pump job. From the dark blue color on the powerhead, I would have to agree, this engine is somewhere between at 1969-1972 model. With the right maintenance, it will still be purring along for another 50 years...
You are right when I check the coils I didn't have the spec. on that coil I just check to see it it had a open circuit. The spark plug wire was good about a inch and a half in on the top but then to short.
Thanks 😊
I have same problem whit spark
I must checking now
I just got one of these. Nice video. A bad condenser will burn the points
Those are good outboards. Not to many things you use for 50 years and they work as good as a new one. Stay Healthy!!!
Looks like a 72,I have one I'm doing a full tune up on it.
Points and condensers
Plug wires
Sparkplug terminals
Carb repair kit
Water pump impeller kit
Coils.
I did find the tag on the engine 6002B if that is accurate it is a 1970. I am just getting ready to work on this motor again. It has run good for almost two years. It is starting to run ruff and quit. I think just a good tune up we will see. Thanks for commenting and Stay Well !!
I need a carburetor and starter for mine and can’t find any can y’all give me some advice where to order it
Captain Jim, your multimeter looks just like mine, I have a Radio Shack one that is a kit I assembled, light blue in color, & im wondering if yours is black because it was factory wired, if it was?
My Multi meter is one that radio shack sold ready to use. I still have it in the original box. I like the analog meters. Works Great.
Enjoy your videos. Appreciate the close up views of what you are working on. Where do you get your parts?
I show you what I am looking at and what I am doing. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Parts from Boatnet.com
I bought that same motor 75 bucks, ran good about 1 hour then lost power then died. 2 questions was that a decent price? And where would you start trouble shooting for the problem. Love your videos, and love working on this stuff even though I have no clue.
My son paid $65.00 for this one for that kind of money you can go wrong. The lower unit is worth more than that. I had problem getting OEM Points and condenser for it. The after market are not good at all. That is where I would check first for spark.
I have a 1970 Evunrude Fisherman 6hp yours looks identical to mine except the camo paint. If it's a 1970, it will have either a #6002B or #6003B on the tag. All these # for all years 1968 and up are available at, shop2.evinrude.com/Index.aspx?s1=bhufrunj5bpdri5qolalj3toe4&catalog_id=5&siteid=1
I hope this helps. Cheers
I've been working on bringing an old evinrude 1958 5.5hp fisherman back to life and did many replacements including a fuel line from dual to single. It keeps dying 2 seconds after starting though. Any suggestions? Should the fuel tank vent be open or closed, or does that matter?
Vent should be open. I had a motor that was doing that. I found the fuel line was sucking air. Make sure you connections are tight. Don't forget that the fuel tank can not be over 24 inches below the fuel pump.
@@OmFishing thanks for that bit of knowledge. I did not know that. It's more than 24" below currently. That could be why I am hardly getting but a drizzle of gas when I pull the starter and watch the pump outlet hose when it's not connected to the carb.
@@OmFishing So, I took your advice and shorted my fuel line by half, shorted the rest of my lines to my fuel tank conversion (by a bunch), took apart the pump that stopped working and got it going again, closed the low speed a bit...and it fired up for the very first time without dying! This 1958 Evinrude 5.5hp 5516 Fisherman is my first outboard I've ever worked on. Didnt even know what a point was going into it haha. Between your videos, and many others, I was able to get it knocked out! Feeling pretty good right now! Going to take it out tomorrow and see if it'll actually run on the water. I'll post the video and update ya. Thanks again!
@@DiabolicalDesigns Happy to help. Have fun.
@@OmFishing well, I couldn't get it to start that next day on the water. Go figure lol. However, I received my replacement pump and replaced the 1/4 fuel line with 5/32 (used the 5/32 fuel line on the pumps pulse too). I once again got it to run. Only with choke on and low speed idle less than 3/4 turn. I also have to barely vent my fuel tank. I can't take off the choke though. I almost can by tightening the low speed a little more or by closing the gas vent a little more. I haven't closed either all the way but believe it may allow me to remove the choke.
What am I missing or doing wrong here? It's so close and I've spent so much time studying and watching videos to get my first motor going, but I can't seem to get this last step 100%. I believe its fair to say thats its still a fuel issue. I believe its having to do with the vacuum not being strong enough with the vent open. Any suggestions from you or your viewers would be great.
where can I buy a flywheel puller tool likd the one used in this video
The one I am using is just a universal puller. I dump lucked on that one at a yard sale. If you look on ebay for OMC tools or out board tools they are on there.
I have one need help finding parts
What are you looking for?
Do you have an email that you can be reached at. I have a very specific question that adding a picture would be much better. Pertaining to my carb needle.
Sure “ omfishing@yahoo.com