Good thing I watch your video, because I replaced the defrost sensor without knowing there is a thermo disc in series with the sensor and defrost heater!
I've been looking for an answer to our Samsung for a year, couldn't find any answers, I finally rang a PCB repair place and asked them, they mentioned it might be the thermal fuse, so I set about checking the freezer heater resistance and found an open circuit, pulled half the unit trying to find the fuse, got a lil confused with my head in the freezer and this time searched how to replace a freezer thermal fuse. BOOM! Your video pops up, same model unit and everything, your description explains the exact issue I have and the wording that I had been searching for, for months! Big fail for Google and a HUGE thankyou to Stan my man, your a life saver! I'm now confident on what the problem is and how to fix it. . My multi reads 0.369kohm on the fridge heater at the PCB, the repair company mentioned the board would most likely need repairing too, of cause. What are your thoughts?
it is helpful, my fridge has the same problem you mentioned from similar model RB1955VQ, can you tell me part number for this Thermal Fuse and Defrost Sensor?
Nicely illustrated Question. New GE refrigerator model gss25gypgcfs. Purchased with no warrannty from a liquidation warehouse. Everything comes on except compressor. So it does cool. Ive ordered a new capacitor and overload protector. Now my question. Can a defective thermistor cause the compressor not to come on. Thanks again
A thermal fuse has a pre determined temp cut out. They are usually marked in Celsius. 72C for instance will open if the temp goes above 72C. At that point, the thermal fuse must be replaced. Defrost heaters seem to pop them at random. 2.00 part vs a whole heater for 56.00 and higher.
Hello sir! I have a Danby fridge that does't have a freezer. Model DAR170A2BSLDD. It is flashing E2 error which the manufacturer says is the defrost sensor. The problem is it's a very strange fridge and when I open the panel I can't see these components... I don't know if it's just me or what. Do you anything about that model? It seems all the plus are inaccessible behind the side panels that are glued shut...
Kenmore Elite french door 795.72053.110 LED on PCB , not blinking at all ...but the fridge not cooling what could be the issue ?? compressor vibrates and heating up, Fan near compressor and inside one working too all lights inside and the panel display working fine...No error code on panel . This one has quieter compressor than previous fridges though but fridge not cooling at all..?? I added the starting relay to compressor which runs good ...Appreciate your, readers input
Help please, replaced the defrost sensor on my Haier hrf663cjr checked thermal fuse and wiring for continuity and also main control board has been replaced but still have F5 defrost sensor error code , I can force the freezer to defrost using the button on the main control board but its not defrosting automatically is there anything else that could be causing the issue?
Big Kahuna My Maytag side by side refrigerator is running and cooling normally. However, it trips the circuit breaker every 4 hours. Since the defrost timer switches between half hour of defrost and 10 hours of cooling, I may be wrong but I don't suspect the problem is with the defrost timer. So what timing pattern could cause the circuit breaker to trip every 4 hours???
Samsung RS263TDPN refrigerator, Freezer wont cool, fridge side is working, no frost formation on freezer or fridge coils. Sir what do you think the problem is?
I was under the understanding that all fridge and freezer thermistors (not the bi metal defrost sensor), work on the principal that it’s resistance changes based on the temperature. So how can you test for continuity and say that a thermistor showing zero ohms is in good standing. I believe each manufacturer has its own spec sheet for what it’s thermistors should measure In ohms at specific temperatures. Say at one temp a thermistor measures 750 ohms, and at a different temp, the same thermistor measures 1400. I’m also under the impression that if this measurement is off +\- 10%, it should be replaced. I’m new to all this so if my information is wrong, please correct me. Thanks!
I'd say yes. The part isn't expensive is the fact that you get someone with experience to drive to your house with tools and repair your equipment plus they need to be a viable business after covering their overhead or you can do it yourself and save money.
Hi There!. Ive got the same Fridge SR-L709EVSS Model. A while ago the fridge and freezer stopped cooling and freezing. It made a weird noise. The head on display panel indicated different readings for both the fridge and freezer. I called a repair guy who took the fridge and kept it for two days. He brought it back and the Fridge temperature went to 2degress and the freezer went to -15degrees. Everything was working fine until the freezer temperature light started flashing conitnually. The compressor stopped the compressor fan stopped and the fridge or compressor never came on after that. We literally have to switch it off at the power plug connected to the wall outlet left it for 10minutes turned on the power it ran for a while and it did the same. Stopped cooling and the Freezer light keeps on flashing. Please help would could the problem be?
Samsung is not known for high quality refrigerator/freezers. Some have had good results making things work again by replacing the motherboard. Last I checked, they cost about $75.
How to test the thermal fuse is in the first video, ua-cam.com/video/kUu1_5Yk5wU/v-deo.html. The symptoms listed at the beginning of this video are indicative of a faulty thermal fuse. I did not test the defrost sensor, but simply decided to change it while I had the freezer apart. It's easier to replace it now rather than to have to take the freezer apart again at some future date.
My refrigerator model is Samsung SR-L629EV which is completely similar to the refrigerator in this video and even have the same PCB board with the previous video from this refrigerator which you checked the thermal fuse. Because of the not-cooling problem, I opened it and I saw the ice on Ref- evaporator. Then I find out that the thermal fuse is not working and do not have any continuity. Subsequently, I changed the thermal fuse several times but it just works for 1 day and the day after the thermal fuse was burned out and lost its continuity. I used several brands but nothing helps. They just work for a day. The second problem is the fridge works very good for about 4.30 minutes but after that refrigerator fan and compressor turn off and do not turn on again automatically. The degree indicators for Ref&Freezer start blinking but after unplugging the device from electricity and replugging it again it starts working very well. Every 5 hours I have to unplug it and plug it again. No clicking sound, I changed the compressor relay but it wasn't helped; then I start to repair and put new electrical parts on the PCB and 90% of the PCB components are new. no problem in the PCB just I do not know what should I do with everyday fuse change and unplug and replug the device per 5 hours. Could you help me with the problem, please?
Ensure you have replaced the thermo fuse with correct rating (10 amp / 77.0 deg C) as marked on the casing of the original thermo fuse and available as Microtemp G4 series (same part as Samsung original). Once the fuse is blown (open circuit) the fridge will not restart after the first cycle, as you state. This has been a long standing problem with this series of Samsung fridges although they usually last a few years before the fuse blows, you may need to investigate why the circuit is drawing more than the 10 amps rated for the thermo fuse.
If the defrost sensor goes bad, it doesn't pick up the heater's temperature correctly and then the thermal fuse blow up. You probably have to replace also that (at least is what I've understood from some videos i watched)
You say to replace thermal fuse PN DA47-00095E with a manufacturer's recommended bi-metal unit. Where can I find that new replacement? What's the part number?
You should be able to find one online on an appliance parts website. Or look in the Yellow Pages under Appliances-Major-Supplies & Parts for a local appliance parts dealer. If your local appliance parts dealer does not have the part in stock, they should be able to order it for you and should be able to locate the part number you need for your particular make and model.
So this is a high quality Samsung refrigerator ? Did metal get so expensive that it was not cost effective ? If so that is odd. Because for the last few years metal prices have stayed around $4 per 100 lbs. This looks like a nightmare, all this cheap ass plastic. I got an old GE had it for all most 30 yrs. Here recently is the only time it has ever given me any trouble. After working on a few washing machines one just over 3 yrs old Maytag. The other about 5 yrs old a Kenmore, I was amazed at how cheap and crappy they are made. I bought a new dishwasher Bocsh it is still under warrenty. Less than 3 yrs old they have been out to work on it 3 times. It has been a POS since day one. Is there any company out there that still makes things to last ? Or is everything just disposable.
Not long ago, when we were looking at new appliances, the two older salesmen present, both of whom had had many years in the appliance business, told us NOT to buy a new washer or dryer unless we absolutely had to and to keep the old ones running as long as we could. The electronics in the new ones, they said, are easily damaged by moisture and can go on the fritz quickly. They said many buyers of new models are going back to the old-style mechanical dials, which manufacturers are making more of again. They said the most durable and reliable washing machine on the market today is Speed Queen. (We’re trying to keep our 34-year-old Maytag washer and dryer running as long as we can!)
Test with the 'continuity' test function of your multi meter. If the Thermo fuse is open circuit (blown) it requires replacement with the appropriate rated fuse. If you pull apart the unit and expose the fuse, the can of the fuse with have a rating printed on it, most likely 77.0 or 077 which is the 'maximum open temp' in degrees C. For a few dollars a replacement Microtemp thermo fuse can be obtained from Emerson who distribute Microtemp, the same brand Samsung use in the original part or for considerably more buy the part from Samsung.
I can't understand what's the problem with my fridge...the heater gives me 0.6 ohm, does it went bad? Also i have a second fuse (I'm not sure) that's near the fan in direct contact with the heater, which doesn't have continuity. Where i can get some help? I can post some photos
Good thing I watch your video, because I replaced the defrost sensor without knowing there is a thermo disc in series with the sensor and defrost heater!
I did everything as he said and things work out for me. When the part failed again I simply followed the same instructions and it worked. Great video.
I've been looking for an answer to our Samsung for a year, couldn't find any answers, I finally rang a PCB repair place and asked them, they mentioned it might be the thermal fuse, so I set about checking the freezer heater resistance and found an open circuit, pulled half the unit trying to find the fuse, got a lil confused with my head in the freezer and this time searched how to replace a freezer thermal fuse. BOOM! Your video pops up, same model unit and everything, your description explains the exact issue I have and the wording that I had been searching for, for months! Big fail for Google and a HUGE thankyou to Stan my man, your a life saver! I'm now confident on what the problem is and how to fix it.
.
My multi reads 0.369kohm on the fridge heater at the PCB, the repair company mentioned the board would most likely need repairing too, of cause. What are your thoughts?
Your video is SUPER helpful! Thank you so much, I'll be doing all that to avoid a service call.
it is helpful, my fridge has the same problem you mentioned from similar model RB1955VQ, can you tell me part number for this Thermal Fuse and Defrost Sensor?
I don't have the part number handy, but you should be able to look it up online on the site of any reputable appliance parts seller.
Nicely illustrated
Question. New GE refrigerator model gss25gypgcfs. Purchased with no warrannty from a liquidation warehouse. Everything comes on except compressor. So it does cool. Ive ordered a new capacitor and overload protector. Now my question. Can a defective thermistor cause the compressor not to come on. Thanks again
Thank you for sharing this video tutorial.very informative good job 👍💯
Thank you for your tutorial, it was well done. What is a thermal fuse and why do they use it?
A thermal fuse has a pre determined temp cut out. They are usually marked in Celsius. 72C for instance will open if the temp goes above 72C. At that point, the thermal fuse must be replaced. Defrost heaters seem to pop them at random. 2.00 part vs a whole heater for 56.00 and higher.
Very good video ! The tape tip is tops
Thanks! 👍
Most splendid, love the tip with the electrical tape. Many thx for sharing your knowledge.
Concerning the new type, what is its parameters. About the sensor.
Hello sir! I have a Danby fridge that does't have a freezer. Model DAR170A2BSLDD. It is flashing E2 error which the manufacturer says is the defrost sensor. The problem is it's a very strange fridge and when I open the panel I can't see these components... I don't know if it's just me or what. Do you anything about that model? It seems all the plus are inaccessible behind the side panels that are glued shut...
Kenmore Elite french door 795.72053.110 LED on PCB , not blinking at all ...but the fridge not cooling what could be the issue ?? compressor vibrates and heating up, Fan near compressor and inside one working too all lights inside and the panel display working fine...No error code on panel . This one has quieter compressor than previous fridges though but fridge not cooling at all..?? I added the starting relay to compressor which runs good ...Appreciate your, readers input
Thank very much.
You were a good helper.
Help please, replaced the defrost sensor on my Haier hrf663cjr checked thermal fuse and wiring for continuity and also main control board has been replaced but still have F5 defrost sensor error code , I can force the freezer to defrost using the button on the main control board but its not defrosting automatically is there anything else that could be causing the issue?
Big Kahuna
My Maytag side by side refrigerator is running and cooling normally. However, it trips the circuit breaker every 4 hours. Since the defrost timer switches between half hour of defrost and 10 hours of cooling, I may be wrong but I don't suspect the problem is with the defrost timer. So what timing pattern could cause the circuit breaker to trip every 4 hours???
Samsung RS263TDPN refrigerator, Freezer wont cool, fridge side is working, no frost formation on freezer or fridge coils. Sir what do you think the problem is?
Wow what an awesome teacher! Thank u!
Great video. I learned quite a bit.
Nice Sir. Thank you so much
great video, Stan! thank you for your help!
Happy to help!
This is a very good tutorial
I was under the understanding that all fridge and freezer thermistors (not the bi metal defrost sensor), work on the principal that it’s resistance changes based on the temperature. So how can you test for continuity and say that a thermistor showing zero ohms is in good standing. I believe each manufacturer has its own spec sheet for what it’s thermistors should measure In ohms at specific temperatures. Say at one temp a thermistor measures 750 ohms, and at a different temp, the same thermistor measures 1400. I’m also under the impression that if this measurement is off +\- 10%, it should be replaced. I’m new to all this so if my information is wrong, please correct me. Thanks!
Bel video e spiegato molto bene 👍👍👍
Grazie mille! Spero che tu abbia trovato utile il video.
is a $345 charge justified for this repair in a kenmore? 🤔
I'd say yes. The part isn't expensive is the fact that you get someone with experience to drive to your house with tools and repair your equipment plus they need to be a viable business after covering their overhead or you can do it yourself and save money.
Sir very nice tutorial thanks and god bless...
Thank you so much sir video was very helpful.
Thank you
Hi There!. Ive got the same Fridge SR-L709EVSS Model. A while ago the fridge and freezer stopped cooling and freezing. It made a weird noise. The head on display panel indicated different readings for both the fridge and freezer. I called a repair guy who took the fridge and kept it for two days. He brought it back and the Fridge temperature went to 2degress and the freezer went to -15degrees. Everything was working fine until the freezer temperature light started flashing conitnually. The compressor stopped the compressor fan stopped and the fridge or compressor never came on after that. We literally have to switch it off at the power plug connected to the wall outlet left it for 10minutes turned on the power it ran for a while and it did the same. Stopped cooling and the Freezer light keeps on flashing. Please help would could the problem be?
Samsung is not known for high quality refrigerator/freezers. Some have had good results making things work again by replacing the motherboard. Last I checked, they cost about $75.
how do i test the defrost sensor please?
Doesn't the thermal fuse need to be wrapped with foil?
Hi dityourselfstan. you don't tell us why should we replacing the defrost thermistor? and how we knew its up normal or folty thermistor?
he does in the description
How to test the thermal fuse is in the first video, ua-cam.com/video/kUu1_5Yk5wU/v-deo.html. The symptoms listed at the beginning of this video are indicative of a faulty thermal fuse. I did not test the defrost sensor, but simply decided to change it while I had the freezer apart. It's easier to replace it now rather than to have to take the freezer apart again at some future date.
Lisa Ward
Ibrahim Azawe.
My refrigerator model is Samsung SR-L629EV which is completely similar to the refrigerator in this video and even have the same PCB board with the previous video from this refrigerator which you checked the thermal fuse. Because of the not-cooling problem, I opened it and I saw the ice on Ref- evaporator. Then I find out that the thermal fuse is not working and do not have any continuity. Subsequently, I changed the thermal fuse several times but it just works for 1 day and the day after the thermal fuse was burned out and lost its continuity. I used several brands but nothing helps. They just work for a day. The second problem is the fridge works very good for about 4.30 minutes but after that refrigerator fan and compressor turn off and do not turn on again automatically. The degree indicators for Ref&Freezer start blinking but after unplugging the device from electricity and replugging it again it starts working very well. Every 5 hours I have to unplug it and plug it again. No clicking sound, I changed the compressor relay but it wasn't helped; then I start to repair and put new electrical parts on the PCB and 90% of the PCB components are new. no problem in the PCB just I do not know what should I do with everyday fuse change and unplug and replug the device per 5 hours. Could you help me with the problem, please?
Ensure you have replaced the thermo fuse with correct rating (10 amp / 77.0 deg C) as marked on the casing of the original thermo fuse and available as Microtemp G4 series (same part as Samsung original). Once the fuse is blown (open circuit) the fridge will not restart after the first cycle, as you state. This has been a long standing problem with this series of Samsung fridges although they usually last a few years before the fuse blows, you may need to investigate why the circuit is drawing more than the 10 amps rated for the thermo fuse.
If the defrost sensor goes bad, it doesn't pick up the heater's temperature correctly and then the thermal fuse blow up. You probably have to replace also that (at least is what I've understood from some videos i watched)
long white one is the temperature sensor and the other round black one is the bi-metal defrost thermostat..............
if the thermal fuse is good ,do we need to replace defrost sensor ,can it be testing by tester
You say to replace thermal fuse PN DA47-00095E with a manufacturer's recommended bi-metal unit. Where can I find that new replacement? What's the part number?
You should be able to find one online on an appliance parts website. Or look in the Yellow Pages under Appliances-Major-Supplies & Parts for a local appliance parts dealer. If your local appliance parts dealer does not have the part in stock, they should be able to order it for you and should be able to locate the part number you need for your particular make and model.
Hi
can you tell me what is the PN of the Bi-Metal?
Karl Montstream no no
THANKS
excellent explonation thankyou.
good explanation
Great teacher
nice video boss
Thank you for watching!
My refrigerator does not freeze. It appears defrost is always on. No frost on evaporator. Melts and freezes water at same time
nice video sir
What is the part number for the thermal fuse?
supper sir good explain thanks
So this is a high quality Samsung refrigerator ? Did metal get so expensive that it was not cost effective ? If so that is odd. Because for the last few years metal prices have stayed around $4 per 100 lbs. This looks like a nightmare, all this cheap ass plastic. I got an old GE had it for all most 30 yrs. Here recently is the only time it has ever given me any trouble. After working on a few washing machines one just over 3 yrs old Maytag. The other about 5 yrs old a Kenmore, I was amazed at how cheap and crappy they are made. I bought a new dishwasher Bocsh it is still under warrenty. Less than 3 yrs old they have been out to work on it 3 times. It has been a POS since day one. Is there any company out there that still makes things to last ? Or is everything just disposable.
Not long ago, when we were looking at new appliances, the two older salesmen present, both of whom had had many years in the appliance business, told us NOT to buy a new washer or dryer unless we absolutely had to and to keep the old ones running as long as we could. The electronics in the new ones, they said, are easily damaged by moisture and can go on the fritz quickly. They said many buyers of new models are going back to the old-style mechanical dials, which manufacturers are making more of again. They said the most durable and reliable washing machine on the market today is Speed Queen. (We’re trying to keep our 34-year-old Maytag washer and dryer running as long as we can!)
thanks sir
sir ice freezing coil countinui after change thermal fuse y other problum please tell me now
Sajigd Ali,,,chek your heetr and timer,,ok
Good
sorry. I've watched the video 2 times. you didn't test the thermistors. and how you know it is fail.
Ibrahim Azawe
I
Test with the 'continuity' test function of your multi meter. If the Thermo fuse is open circuit (blown) it requires replacement with the appropriate rated fuse. If you pull apart the unit and expose the fuse, the can of the fuse with have a rating printed on it, most likely 77.0 or 077 which is the 'maximum open temp' in degrees C. For a few dollars a replacement Microtemp thermo fuse can be obtained from Emerson who distribute Microtemp, the same brand Samsung use in the original part or for considerably more buy the part from Samsung.
The point of the video is how to replace them not to test them...that video is very informative...
tnx to this vid
Sanoj Fil 0
Do I need to call the electric company to shut off the electricity to the house ? 🤪
He didn't have had a hard hat on, safety boots not worn, no hi viz vest, safety glasses not used and no risk assessment taken.
thank u
Turn off the breaker and unplug it? Why not just unplug it? 🤦♂️
سلام،
لطفا زیر نویس فارسی هم بگذارید،
ممنونم،
من تمام تلاشم را با استفاده از Google Translate انجام دادم: چگونه فیوز حرارتی و حسگرهای یخ زدایی را در یخچال/فریزر جایگزین کنم
Thenks,jentelmem
yea good
NEXT TIME USE MAGNETIC SCREW DRIVER TIP
K
Lol, turn off the fuse and unplug it. We wouldn’t want the electricity jumping to the unpluged chord.
I can't understand what's the problem with my fridge...the heater gives me 0.6 ohm, does it went bad? Also i have a second fuse (I'm not sure) that's near the fan in direct contact with the heater, which doesn't have continuity. Where i can get some help? I can post some photos
Nice