The Vappeby Gen 3 speaker addresses all these issues with battery for portable use and synchronised volume controls between paired speakers. A pair of these speakers sounds good enough for pretty much any domestic use.
Hey, thanks for this! I've been using one of these in my kitchen (wired to a cheap DAB radio) for a couple of years and been tempted on a few occasions to have the back off to see what makes it tick... Now i'm very firmly from an old school 'flat earth' analogue hifi background so the Eneby instantly appealed to me as it's a 'proper' wide baffle box'n'cones speaker with no frills (i've no use for network/app/smart stuff and only occasionally connect my phone via bluetooth) So, cons: - I don't mind the auto switch off but it'd great if it also woke up when a signal was detected. The Vol control isn't an issue to me as i use the vol on the radio, pre-amp style. - Auto switching between the jack input / bluetooth is a big miss, having to pull the jack out to connect a phone is definitely an oversight, though hardly a deal breaker! That's it... Pros: - For the money, It sounds *tremendous*, easily bettering many boxes i've heard at double or triple the price. Goes loud but clips out pretty benignly, nicely balanced, more than adequate timing, surprising bass heft AND control plus the rear port means you can 'tune' it via boundary proximity. If you're demoing it should be noted that the tweeter is a little ragged straight out the box but smooths out noticeably after a few days use... - The inclusion of tone controls, and i type this as a someone who usually considers them superfluous, is a real boon and something that many of these over bassy wireless speakers could use (I'm lookin' at you Bose) as well as being useful for clawing a little more life out of sub-par MP3 uploads... - To my eyes, it looks great, grille on or off. That's it, i'm hard pushed to think of a way of getting more sound for £80, this thing is one of the biggest bargains in home audio. I can only conclude that none of the hifi mags have reviewed it cos they don't want to piss off their advertisers... ;-)
By the way the csra64110 appears to be cross-compatible with the beloved csra64215, so if you are up to desoldering this one and changing it to the 64215 you gain the features, and i think that (maybe) it is possible to copy its firmware, and so you can get aptx in the eneby.
yeah, I strongly suspect they are pin-compatible ... and as far as I'm aware the eneby runs a rather stock firmware/psr on there ... might work to just swap em over ... buuut, yeah ...
In some androids phone like my samsung galaxy a50 the volume is synchronised with my onyx 5 and lg musicflow p7 but with my honor 6x same problem you have to control the volume on speaker and phone
Thank you for the video. My Eneby 30 stopped working after I had a bad voltage fluctuation. I opened it up and found what appears to be a short circut? The cotton padding was melted in some places with some black charring on the inner casing. My question is, can it be fixed? If so, what parts should I change? Thank you.
you should attempt to change the power supply - get something with a similar voltage and feed it into the amplifier board you MIGHT get away with using a laptop power supply - those are 19v do check - I think the original was 17v if that's the case - 19 should be fine
I have an Eneby 30 and is shuting off immediately after turning on, after it shuts off it wont turn on, i must unplug it from electricity, wait a while and plug it back in and it will turn on but after a very short moment goes off again, can you help me?
The voltage they chose to go with makes me think they have considered releasing a model with built in battery in the future.. 18.3v is in the ballpark of laptop chargers and lithium batteries that have 4 li-ion cells in series ( 4 x 3.7v..4.2v = ~ 16v) so just the right voltage to charge such batteries. Otherwise... is there enough room for a lead acid 7Ah battery like the unes used in cheap UPSes ? The whole thing is heavy anyway so if you're thinking semi-portable, like taking it in your car to a picnic or something (so you don't have to carry it in your hands for long distances) then a lead acid battery may make sense.
hmm, nah .. I don't think is has anything to do with it ... it's a nice voltage to be at ... but everything will run on 9v as well ... I'm actually working on a 3S pack now wich will reach 12.6v at most I don't think a lead acid would make much sense ... and you'd have to stick it somewhere in the upper part ... which would mean somehow extremely safely securing it ... it would also make the entire speaker top heavy ... and at the first topple the lead acid would become loose ... yeh nah ... sounds rather nightmarish
I noticed some glue/paste around the capacitors. I’m repairing some subwoofers where the glue has become conductive (also due to overheating) over the years, creating all kinds of problems. Just noticing.
Yeah, the circuitry should work from 10 to what the actual supply inside it is (forgot .. was it 18v?) You could also charge the bettery from that rail ... Let me know if you do it ... I planned to do that on mine but got too full with other projects
@@Darieee I would like to buy an ikea 30 but I do not yet if it is possible to pair a battery to the internal power! and if so what battery power and how to connect it to the system
If you're okay with adding a switch on the outside, it shouldn't be too involving ... You will need a 3S pack, or ideally a 4S one ... 4S1P is what would be best With that you would have to also have: • a 4S BMS to protect the cells from overcharging, over-discharging and short circuits • a 4S balancing module to ensure the cells never drift out • a constant current buck converter for charging the pack And a switch to go between charge and discharge
If you're okay with adding a switch on the outside, it shouldn't be too involving ... You will need a 3S pack, or ideally a 4S one ... 4S1P is what would be best With that you would have to also have: • a 4S BMS to protect the cells from overcharging, over-discharging and short circuits • a 4S balancing module to ensure the cells never drift out • a constant current buck converter for charging the pack And a switch to go between charge and discharge
I can’t understand why you would want a receiver to adjust itself relative to phone volume. As I understand things you usually want to adjust volume on the speaker primarily to reduce distortion which will increase the lower your output volume. If I have the option I would never want my output volume to be lowered at all, I would always prefer to adjust volume on the speaker. I may leave myself some room on the phone. Volume on a device I would set relative to the device. Generally in my experience speakers run too loud at full volume and usually hum at full. It doesn’t seem preferable at all to sync input and output. Even if Bluetooth doesn’t ruin the signal by changing the waveform it’s still preferable to be able to set the relative volume for the setting the speakers in. Like you said you’re walls are thin so you wouldn’t want to accidentally blast the speakers because your phone was at full volume. I think I must misunderstand or simply have a different philosophy when it comes to audio.
There's no distortion based on volume on the modern digital amps (they're almost always at their specified gain, though these might not). You would want there to be a SINGLE volume ... the phone is at 50%, that is 50% on the speaker, you increase the volume on the speaker, it shows on the phone - the Bluetooth is sending instructions, not an analog sound - so ... distortion can't play any role in this I'm sure you wouldn't prefer having to adjust the volume on your speaker after EVERY time it turns itself off, when the alternative is never having to do that with no penalty in quality Again, with the hum at full volume - not the case here - and I want a unified volume, so, there would be this hum only when playing a silent track on the phone AT FULL VOLUME Yeah so, regarding the rest of the comment - the above mentioned should have been enough to cover the last point you've made
On digital amps it doesn't matter if it's the built in wheel or bluetooth volume (=phone volume) that adjusts the volume. If it comes via bluetooth, you have the full volume range available. If the control wheel is separate, both the wheel and the bluetooth output needs to be set to full to get full output. Cheers!
The box looks ... uhm .. very plasticky. What would be a good way to see improve on that? I’m thinking of building a birch multiplex box around it and glue and screw it together. As a posed to making a whole new box.
I was thinking of inside - but obviously around the boards
6 років тому
With the smaller box they had some foam tape at the edges and they clearly has wrapped the cables in some foam stuff too to not make them vibrate against something so from a technical point I think the plastic is pretty fine. If you don't like the looks of it then feel free to don't do that :)
The sound is amazing!!! I´ve heard Harman Kardon onyx 5, JBLs, Naim..., and truly, this one sounds really really nice and powerfull. Misses the battery...
mmmm, will have to disagree on it sounding nice onyx (lost track which gen) was super bass heavy, to a ridiculous extent, so, yes, not good jbls are also imo too bass heavy compared with some krk monitors or something like an iPod hi fi set to bass boost (if you can find one somehow), it's no match the eneby, at least the first gen (who knows maybe they retuned it, it would literally take changing a few values in rom), was insanely lackluster in the mids mine sounded mega mega weird, I gave it off immediately for about 40€ or so
I don't remember which meters I've used .. but I own a Fluke 15B+, and probably used that DIY meter as well,if you want one of those, I made a video on it a short while back, if you search "ina219 diy power monitor" you should find it
@@Darieee As far as i know you need the st-link in combination with st-link utility. I dont know exactly for the stm32f but some of the stm32 family(if not all) have a read-out protection, which can be enabled
Ow yeah - so ... for sure they COULD have enabled that ... and even if they haven't ... decompiling the code should be quite the hassle ... You'd just need to find the 'time_till_sleep' variable though and fiddle with that
I wanted to - I also wanted an elegant solution for charging/discharging the batteries - which I ended up not managing to pull off I since sold my eneby so .. won't be able to unfortunately do check this video from my channel though, it does have a 6S battery pack ua-cam.com/video/kg5TZE76p9I/v-deo.html
I've reverse engineering the whole PCB. IKEA just spent a lot of money for nothing. They are using the BT DAC than the external ADC to go back to digital... They could just have used the CSR module to do all. Aux input is a standard mix and buffer, the BT is a simple differential to single ended signal buffer configuration. Theya re using a Precision Rectifier like circuit to detect the analog signal for the standby function. (This could have been used for both BT and Analog Input but they did not do that) One of the four Opamp is not used. They could have used it to design a virtualg gound circuit instead of crating three different biasing circuit, and use tons of capacitors for nothing. Due to the higth complexity of thoose aplifier they could siply have used two tpa3316. Use a full analog circuit instead of going back and forth with analog and digital. How about the BT/AUX switch? they are usign a quite cool 4 channel chip. Useless in this application. They are only using half of it. They could just have used a simple 2:1 mux. They they have decided to use a ton of BJTs/Mosffet to drive power gates, they could simply have used the pins directly from the MCU... Also LEDs are drived by external transistors. ANd yes there are two leds with different functions. Next step for me is to dump the i2c communication and the power gate sequence... BTW why did they have not done things differently? I'm not an EE, but this is what I've would have done with the same components: Use the I2S output of the CSR module, Slave mode MCLK generated by external source. And use the ring buffer oscillator they already use. Directly connect the Aux to the ADC, at least power gate it for the ENEBY20. Drive the AMPs with the I2S signals. In this way its all Digital for BT,a nd the only things that should be converted is the AUX input. The cheaper options for them, would have been: Use the CSR input function forthe AUX, I2S directly to the AMPs Now, my last hack/ideal solution: Remove all the analog stuff, use a smart codec with stereo ADC like the CS4265, and two or more I2S interfaces to process the signal path. In this way we could also have SPDIF input! Anyway, hack into the i2s should be easy allt he signals have a 100Ohm resistor that divides the amp section and the ADC.
@@Darieee I'm preparing the full schematics :D This weekend I'll publish something on Hackaday. The importatnt thing is that it sound good. I want to mod it to add TWS, and if possible add SPDIF or a RPI for music streaming. (I know that there is the SONOS speaker, but that one don't have BT! And Sonos is having some issues on comply wiht UPNP standards...) Have you avere played with the CSR SPIDF/I2S interface? I'm waiting for the SPI adapter to hack it. I would like to know if is possible to route an analog signal via the built in ADC to the slave BT speaker! I2C Protocol DUMP done! Looks like that they are mainly using the default register configuration. But decondig the 20byte EQ registers is quite a mess.
@@tuttocrafting Did you ever publish your ideas to Hackaday? I wasn't able to find it and after researching I so much agree with your view. IKEA could have done so much better. I found out that at least the csra64115 natively supports seamless switch BT and AUX. So instead of doing whatever crap they did where it's either or, they could have used this. And I would have loved that. So I am definately up to some heavy Eneby modding. Unfortunately I need help from someone who actually knows what they're doing. So I would really love to get your input here :)
@@klausagnoletti1027 at the end I didn't push anything due to the fact that other than the mcu the other stuff is a straight configuration from the datasheet. If I remember correctly the adc clock come from an not gate oscillator. And the downmix is done on the analog section near the analog mux ic. I'll try to see if I have the paperwork of the reverse engineering work I did. About your question, the car chip have aux in, but the adc in that one is worse than the on supplied by ikea. If you want to mod it what I would do is: Bypass the analog mux, find a way to downmix stereo to mono in the csr chip. Then use the mux switch select pin to switch the i2s digital signals. The csr must be set as an i2s slave with master clock from the original adc clock source.
Great video. :-) Is the anywhere to get power out of the board, to drive a Chromecast audio? :-) I would be nice, to modify it, to have a build in Chromecast audio.
sure, you'd need a "dc-dc buck converter" to step down the main 18 or so volts the eneby runs off of; get that down to 5, and power your chromecast or there might already be a 5v rail present but, it's a bit more risky playing around with those
Hat das Ding n cutoff im low-end Bereich? Also kann das auch bis 20hz spielen? Oder hat es das übliche "40hz und weniger geht nicht" Problem? Substanz sieht nämlich ganz gut aus und n dicken Akku aus 18650er zu basteln ist auch kein Problem. Vielleicht n anderes/steiferes Gehäuse mit gleichen Maßen und dann spielt das Gerät bestimmt ziemlich gut
Joa .. zuerst klingt der EQ ein bisschen seltsam .. also, auch mit perfekte Gehäuse ist das ganze Design schon limitiert Und ... bei dieser Größe ... 20-40 wird sowieso sehr schwach ... kann's probieren wenn du wissen willst
@murrant: "Also kann das auch bis 20hz spielen? " Are you a fool, or just plain stupid? You might also ask: "So can an elephant fly?" Or "So can a fish fly into outer space?" Well, NO! If a speaker like this EVER would reach 20 Hz, it would be at -40 dB. But that's not what it's made for! Let me see your own speakers that reach 20 Hz at -3 dB..? Are they big as a refrigerator, or do they cost +1.000 EUR? I guess both of my questions will be answered with YES!
How did the battery mod go? I tried 5s lithium. But the original powersupply charges them only to 18.3v. So I tried an old laptop charger at 20.5 volt. Which worked ok for 2 days and then couldn't handle pushback from the battery and stopt working all together.
I have the parts on their way; 5S charged to the brim is 21V, which is quite a bit high given the original design wants 18 I have the parts on order and will build a 3S pack, with a constant-current buck regulator coming off of the built-in power supply, a 3S BMS and a 3S balance board
Darieee yes that was my second idea. But how wil the battery power be activated? Because when just attached to the amplifier board, the eneby powersupply wil push back. A diode maybe?
Whenever you unplug the power - the battery will already be connected, so all of what the main board will see at mains disconnect is a drop in supply voltage from 18 to 12 (I'll be using a diode to bypass the buck converter for discharge)
Hi, Thanks for this video I'd like to add one of these speakers to my chromecast multiroom. Do you think it's possible to take a 5v from that board to supply the chromecast audio and hide it in the speaker ?
I have the Eneby 30 and I like it a lot, considering the price. I am a bit afraid that Ikea will not improve it for many years to come. Ikea tends to keep productlines the same for ages.
yea ... likely some users have however reported that now it doesn't turn off so -- if returning it is possible/not super costly for you, you might give it a shot imho it doesn't sound too good, .. no mids, but, at least for the 30, extremely powerful on higher volume
Hi Another awesome video. Tx! I’ve got a few questions that i’ll post in separate comments. Will a higher input voltage result in a higher power output? If so, it’ll probably need some cooling.
well, not always does the highest voltage yield the highest RATED wattage - check the TPA3116 datasheet and you'll see they don't power it with 25 or 26V or whatever was the maximum
Really liked your vid.. love watching electronically knowledgeable people do a tear down..I'm just a Linux admin no electronics goeroe.. greetings from the Netherlands
Thanks for the teardown! From what you say it should run without any problem I’m 12v. I’m not thinking battery, but I’m considering the little brother (eneby20) as a Bluetooth speaker for a camper. The 20 is just easier to fit in a tiny space, should have enough power and is syncing the volume ;)
I’ve got about no clue how I’m going to make this work on 12v... but that’s good to know! About volume syncing, I was at an ikea here in the NL and there was a A4 sheet to help you to choose your eneby. It seems the eneby portable and eneby 20 do have volume sync ;) at least that’s what I read... didn’t actually checked it...
What is the max voltage it can run off? And would it be better to run off higher voltage? My eneby30 is on 12v now. I wonder if i lose amplifier output (wattage).
Lets pray 2019 ikea expands upon this line. I think they will with how they are making more tech products for 2019 already. Id like to see this speaker as a portable and stereo speaker.
abc 123, A electrolytic condensator which charged from 110V/220V store charge from 5 min to a few hours (or even days). Of course If company didn't install a resistor for discharging. It won't kill, but it will hurt =) I says about condensators on the power board which connected to 220V. p.s. Old TV's have charge a few kVolt - it's dangerous!
wait a minute... you're a electronic "expert" it seems, but dont you forget something???? when going to 12V or even lower, you lose poweroutput. The way it goes loud and hard is the best bit of this speaker
The Vappeby Gen 3 speaker addresses all these issues with battery for portable use and synchronised volume controls between paired speakers. A pair of these speakers sounds good enough for pretty much any domestic use.
Hey, thanks for this! I've been using one of these in my kitchen (wired to a cheap DAB radio) for a couple of years and been tempted on a few occasions to have the back off to see what makes it tick...
Now i'm very firmly from an old school 'flat earth' analogue hifi background so the Eneby instantly appealed to me as it's a 'proper' wide baffle box'n'cones speaker with no frills (i've no use for network/app/smart stuff and only occasionally connect my phone via bluetooth)
So, cons:
- I don't mind the auto switch off but it'd great if it also woke up when a signal was detected. The Vol control isn't an issue to me as i use the vol on the radio, pre-amp style.
- Auto switching between the jack input / bluetooth is a big miss, having to pull the jack out to connect a phone is definitely an oversight, though hardly a deal breaker! That's it...
Pros:
- For the money, It sounds *tremendous*, easily bettering many boxes i've heard at double or triple the price. Goes loud but clips out pretty benignly, nicely balanced, more than adequate timing, surprising bass heft AND control plus the rear port means you can 'tune' it via boundary proximity. If you're demoing it should be noted that the tweeter is a little ragged straight out the box but smooths out noticeably after a few days use...
- The inclusion of tone controls, and i type this as a someone who usually considers them superfluous, is a real boon and something that many of these over bassy wireless speakers could use (I'm lookin' at you Bose) as well as being useful for clawing a little more life out of sub-par MP3 uploads...
- To my eyes, it looks great, grille on or off.
That's it, i'm hard pushed to think of a way of getting more sound for £80, this thing is one of the biggest bargains in home audio. I can only conclude that none of the hifi mags have reviewed it cos they don't want to piss off their advertisers... ;-)
By the way the csra64110 appears to be cross-compatible with the beloved csra64215, so if you are up to desoldering this one and changing it to the 64215 you gain the features, and i think that (maybe) it is possible to copy its firmware, and so you can get aptx in the eneby.
yeah, I strongly suspect they are pin-compatible ... and as far as I'm aware the eneby runs a rather stock firmware/psr on there ...
might work to just swap em over ... buuut, yeah ...
How do you make it portable? Have you done that? Please help 😇
In some androids phone like my samsung galaxy a50 the volume is synchronised with my onyx 5 and lg musicflow p7 but with my honor 6x same problem you have to control the volume on speaker and phone
Thank you for the video. My Eneby 30 stopped working after I had a bad voltage fluctuation. I opened it up and found what appears to be a short circut? The cotton padding was melted in some places with some black charring on the inner casing. My question is, can it be fixed? If so, what parts should I change? Thank you.
you should attempt to change the power supply - get something with a similar voltage and feed it into the amplifier board
you MIGHT get away with using a laptop power supply - those are 19v
do check - I think the original was 17v
if that's the case - 19 should be fine
I have an Eneby 30 and is shuting off immediately after turning on, after it shuts off it wont turn on, i must unplug it from electricity, wait a while and plug it back in and it will turn on but after a very short moment goes off again, can you help me?
The voltage they chose to go with makes me think they have considered releasing a model with built in battery in the future.. 18.3v is in the ballpark of laptop chargers and lithium batteries that have 4 li-ion cells in series ( 4 x 3.7v..4.2v = ~ 16v) so just the right voltage to charge such batteries.
Otherwise... is there enough room for a lead acid 7Ah battery like the unes used in cheap UPSes ? The whole thing is heavy anyway so if you're thinking semi-portable, like taking it in your car to a picnic or something (so you don't have to carry it in your hands for long distances) then a lead acid battery may make sense.
hmm, nah .. I don't think is has anything to do with it ... it's a nice voltage to be at ... but everything will run on 9v as well ... I'm actually working on a 3S pack now wich will reach 12.6v at most
I don't think a lead acid would make much sense ... and you'd have to stick it somewhere in the upper part ... which would mean somehow extremely safely securing it ... it would also make the entire speaker top heavy ... and at the first topple the lead acid would become loose ... yeh nah ... sounds rather nightmarish
@@Darieee Isn't the Eneby 20 battery pack already 3S? But capacity can be an issue
Great work! I'll try a 4s 5ah battery pack when I get a chance and figure out charging and powering the unit
I noticed some glue/paste around the capacitors. I’m repairing some subwoofers where the glue has become conductive (also due to overheating) over the years, creating all kinds of problems. Just noticing.
if the glue's good, there shouldn't be any problems ... I would rather have the glue and not have parts rattle themselves to death
hi, possible to put a battery to make it portable? thank you
Yeah, the circuitry should work from 10 to what the actual supply inside it is (forgot .. was it 18v?)
You could also charge the bettery from that rail ...
Let me know if you do it ... I planned to do that on mine but got too full with other projects
@@Darieee I would like to buy an ikea 30 but I do not yet if it is possible to pair a battery to the internal power! and if so what battery power and how to connect it to the system
If you're okay with adding a switch on the outside, it shouldn't be too involving ...
You will need a 3S pack, or ideally a 4S one ... 4S1P is what would be best
With that you would have to also have:
• a 4S BMS to protect the cells from overcharging, over-discharging and short circuits
• a 4S balancing module to ensure the cells never drift out
• a constant current buck converter for charging the pack
And a switch to go between charge and discharge
If you're okay with adding a switch on the outside, it shouldn't be too involving ...
You will need a 3S pack, or ideally a 4S one ... 4S1P is what would be best
With that you would have to also have:
• a 4S BMS to protect the cells from overcharging, over-discharging and short circuits
• a 4S balancing module to ensure the cells never drift out
• a constant current buck converter for charging the pack
And a switch to go between charge and discharge
@@Darieee yes it's a good idea
I can’t understand why you would want a receiver to adjust itself relative to phone volume. As I understand things you usually want to adjust volume on the speaker primarily to reduce distortion which will increase the lower your output volume. If I have the option I would never want my output volume to be lowered at all, I would always prefer to adjust volume on the speaker. I may leave myself some room on the phone. Volume on a device I would set relative to the device. Generally in my experience speakers run too loud at full volume and usually hum at full. It doesn’t seem preferable at all to sync input and output. Even if Bluetooth doesn’t ruin the signal by changing the waveform it’s still preferable to be able to set the relative volume for the setting the speakers in. Like you said you’re walls are thin so you wouldn’t want to accidentally blast the speakers because your phone was at full volume. I think I must misunderstand or simply have a different philosophy when it comes to audio.
There's no distortion based on volume on the modern digital amps (they're almost always at their specified gain, though these might not).
You would want there to be a SINGLE volume ... the phone is at 50%, that is 50% on the speaker, you increase the volume on the speaker, it shows on the phone - the Bluetooth is sending instructions, not an analog sound - so ... distortion can't play any role in this
I'm sure you wouldn't prefer having to adjust the volume on your speaker after EVERY time it turns itself off, when the alternative is never having to do that with no penalty in quality
Again, with the hum at full volume - not the case here - and I want a unified volume, so, there would be this hum only when playing a silent track on the phone AT FULL VOLUME
Yeah so, regarding the rest of the comment - the above mentioned should have been enough to cover the last point you've made
On digital amps it doesn't matter if it's the built in wheel or bluetooth volume (=phone volume) that adjusts the volume. If it comes via bluetooth, you have the full volume range available. If the control wheel is separate, both the wheel and the bluetooth output needs to be set to full to get full output. Cheers!
The box looks ... uhm .. very plasticky. What would be a good way to see improve on that?
I’m thinking of building a birch multiplex box around it and glue and screw it together.
As a posed to making a whole new box.
I'd try pouring some tar inside to make it resonate less
That’s bad you’re not supposed to do that On circuit boards
Spikes 47
This was about the outside box, not the circuit board :)
I was thinking of inside - but obviously around the boards
With the smaller box they had some foam tape at the edges and they clearly has wrapped the cables in some foam stuff too to not make them vibrate against something so from a technical point I think the plastic is pretty fine. If you don't like the looks of it then feel free to don't do that :)
How hard would it be to wire in a mid range speaker? I have a 3” Dayton audio sitting collecting dust. Possible?
not too hard but .. there wouldn't be a lot of room for that I suppose
The sound is amazing!!! I´ve heard Harman Kardon onyx 5, JBLs, Naim..., and truly, this one sounds really really nice and powerfull. Misses the battery...
mmmm, will have to disagree on it sounding nice
onyx (lost track which gen) was super bass heavy, to a ridiculous extent, so, yes, not good
jbls are also imo too bass heavy
compared with some krk monitors or something like an iPod hi fi set to bass boost (if you can find one somehow), it's no match
the eneby, at least the first gen (who knows maybe they retuned it, it would literally take changing a few values in rom), was insanely lackluster in the mids
mine sounded mega mega weird, I gave it off immediately for about 40€ or so
The battery compartment is in ENEBY 20. There is also a carrying handle, it comes in the kit.
The bass can go deep like 40 or 35 hz with this unit?
@@Darieee who tf hates bass
I think asian people - not sure tho
anyhow - all jokes aside - you can't set your sub to 11 and the mids and highs to 3 and say it's good sounding
why not put more anti vibration foam
Cost reduction
I just want to know what that multimeter is.
I don't remember which meters I've used .. but I own a Fluke 15B+, and probably used that DIY meter as well,if you want one of those, I made a video on it a short while back, if you search "ina219 diy power monitor" you should find it
That's an arduino power logger. do a youtube search for it.
I hope you/we get some feedback on how to program these STM32F chips.
Did I mention I really enjoy you vids? 😉
I'm glad you do! I would prefer just one comment with all the remarks though - would make the comment section neater
@@Darieee As far as i know you need the st-link in combination with st-link utility. I dont know exactly for the stm32f but some of the stm32 family(if not all) have a read-out protection, which can be enabled
Ow yeah - so ... for sure they COULD have enabled that ... and even if they haven't ... decompiling the code should be quite the hassle ...
You'd just need to find the 'time_till_sleep' variable though and fiddle with that
whuld this speaker work on 6x 18650 cells giving 22volt?
for like 50 hours 🤘🤘
@@Darieee Can you please do a tutorial
@@Darieee kz i have tje cells and holder for the cells but i don't know how to vire it up propperly
I wanted to - I also wanted an elegant solution for charging/discharging the batteries - which I ended up not managing to pull off
I since sold my eneby so .. won't be able to unfortunately
do check this video from my channel though, it does have a 6S battery pack
ua-cam.com/video/kg5TZE76p9I/v-deo.html
@@Darieee Thnx :)
I've reverse engineering the whole PCB. IKEA just spent a lot of money for nothing.
They are using the BT DAC than the external ADC to go back to digital... They could just have used the CSR module to do all.
Aux input is a standard mix and buffer, the BT is a simple differential to single ended signal buffer configuration.
Theya re using a Precision Rectifier like circuit to detect the analog signal for the standby function. (This could have been used for both BT and Analog Input but they did not do that)
One of the four Opamp is not used. They could have used it to design a virtualg gound circuit instead of crating three different biasing circuit, and use tons of capacitors for nothing.
Due to the higth complexity of thoose aplifier they could siply have used two tpa3316. Use a full analog circuit instead of going back and forth with analog and digital.
How about the BT/AUX switch? they are usign a quite cool 4 channel chip. Useless in this application. They are only using half of it. They could just have used a simple 2:1 mux.
They they have decided to use a ton of BJTs/Mosffet to drive power gates, they could simply have used the pins directly from the MCU... Also LEDs are drived by external transistors. ANd yes there are two leds with different functions.
Next step for me is to dump the i2c communication and the power gate sequence...
BTW why did they have not done things differently?
I'm not an EE, but this is what I've would have done with the same components:
Use the I2S output of the CSR module, Slave mode MCLK generated by external source. And use the ring buffer oscillator they already use.
Directly connect the Aux to the ADC, at least power gate it for the ENEBY20.
Drive the AMPs with the I2S signals. In this way its all Digital for BT,a nd the only things that should be converted is the AUX input.
The cheaper options for them, would have been:
Use the CSR input function forthe AUX, I2S directly to the AMPs
Now, my last hack/ideal solution:
Remove all the analog stuff, use a smart codec with stereo ADC like the CS4265, and two or more I2S interfaces to process the signal path. In this way we could also have SPDIF input!
Anyway, hack into the i2s should be easy allt he signals have a 100Ohm resistor that divides the amp section and the ADC.
thanks for the detailed breakdown!
indeed - this speaker seems to all intents and purposes to be a school project
@@Darieee I'm preparing the full schematics :D
This weekend I'll publish something on Hackaday.
The importatnt thing is that it sound good.
I want to mod it to add TWS, and if possible add SPDIF or a RPI for music streaming.
(I know that there is the SONOS speaker, but that one don't have BT! And Sonos is having some issues on comply wiht UPNP standards...)
Have you avere played with the CSR SPIDF/I2S interface? I'm waiting for the SPI adapter to hack it.
I would like to know if is possible to route an analog signal via the built in ADC to the slave BT speaker!
I2C Protocol DUMP done!
Looks like that they are mainly using the default register configuration. But decondig the 20byte EQ registers is quite a mess.
@@tuttocrafting Did you ever publish your ideas to Hackaday? I wasn't able to find it and after researching I so much agree with your view. IKEA could have done so much better. I found out that at least the csra64115 natively supports seamless switch BT and AUX. So instead of doing whatever crap they did where it's either or, they could have used this. And I would have loved that. So I am definately up to some heavy Eneby modding. Unfortunately I need help from someone who actually knows what they're doing. So I would really love to get your input here :)
@@klausagnoletti1027 at the end I didn't push anything due to the fact that other than the mcu the other stuff is a straight configuration from the datasheet.
If I remember correctly the adc clock come from an not gate oscillator.
And the downmix is done on the analog section near the analog mux ic.
I'll try to see if I have the paperwork of the reverse engineering work I did.
About your question, the car chip have aux in, but the adc in that one is worse than the on supplied by ikea.
If you want to mod it what I would do is:
Bypass the analog mux, find a way to downmix stereo to mono in the csr chip.
Then use the mux switch select pin to switch the i2s digital signals.
The csr must be set as an i2s slave with master clock from the original adc clock source.
you should 100% upload it to hackaday or something similar🤘
Great video. :-)
Is the anywhere to get power out of the board, to drive a Chromecast audio? :-)
I would be nice, to modify it, to have a build in Chromecast audio.
sure, you'd need a "dc-dc buck converter" to step down the main 18 or so volts the eneby runs off of; get that down to 5, and power your chromecast
or there might already be a 5v rail present but, it's a bit more risky playing around with those
@@Darieee
Hi.
Yes, I know that's one way to do it. :-)
But it was option 2, I was hoping on someone has some knowledge about. :-)
Hat das Ding n cutoff im low-end Bereich?
Also kann das auch bis 20hz spielen? Oder hat es das übliche "40hz und weniger geht nicht" Problem?
Substanz sieht nämlich ganz gut aus und n dicken Akku aus 18650er zu basteln ist auch kein Problem. Vielleicht n anderes/steiferes Gehäuse mit gleichen Maßen und dann spielt das Gerät bestimmt ziemlich gut
Joa .. zuerst klingt der EQ ein bisschen seltsam .. also, auch mit perfekte Gehäuse ist das ganze Design schon limitiert
Und ... bei dieser Größe ... 20-40 wird sowieso sehr schwach ... kann's probieren wenn du wissen willst
@murrant: "Also kann das auch bis 20hz spielen? " Are you a fool, or just plain stupid?
You might also ask: "So can an elephant fly?" Or "So can a fish fly into outer space?" Well, NO! If a speaker like this EVER would reach 20 Hz, it would be at -40 dB. But that's not what it's made for!
Let me see your own speakers that reach 20 Hz at -3 dB..? Are they big as a refrigerator, or do they cost +1.000 EUR? I guess both of my questions will be answered with YES!
does anyone know why the PCB-traces are round and not 45° here ?
extra style points would be my guess ...
should help with RF emission/pickup too if I'm not mistaken but ... yea
How did the battery mod go? I tried 5s lithium. But the original powersupply charges them only to 18.3v. So I tried an old laptop charger at 20.5 volt. Which worked ok for 2 days and then couldn't handle pushback from the battery and stopt working all together.
I have the parts on their way; 5S charged to the brim is 21V, which is quite a bit high given the original design wants 18
I have the parts on order and will build a 3S pack, with a constant-current buck regulator coming off of the built-in power supply, a 3S BMS and a 3S balance board
Darieee yes that was my second idea. But how wil the battery power be activated? Because when just attached to the amplifier board, the eneby powersupply wil push back. A diode maybe?
Whenever you unplug the power - the battery will already be connected, so all of what the main board will see at mains disconnect is a drop in supply voltage from 18 to 12 (I'll be using a diode to bypass the buck converter for discharge)
Once I get the parts I'll do a video on it, if you want the schematic I thought of earlier, send me your email
Darieee thanks! vincentheuperman@gmail.com
Hi,
Thanks for this video
I'd like to add one of these speakers to my chromecast multiroom.
Do you think it's possible to take a 5v from that board to supply the chromecast audio and hide it in the speaker ?
yeah, should work - just be sure not to tap a GPIO line :)
Does this speaker make a shut down noise? Asking because I want this speaker right next to my bed as I go to sleep. Thanks for the teardown :)
No, the one moment it's on, the next it decided to turn itself off
I have the Eneby 30 and I like it a lot, considering the price. I am a bit afraid that Ikea will not improve it for many years to come. Ikea tends to keep productlines the same for ages.
yea ... likely
some users have however reported that now it doesn't turn off
so -- if returning it is possible/not super costly for you, you might give it a shot
imho it doesn't sound too good, .. no mids, but, at least for the 30, extremely powerful on higher volume
I’m keeping it... I like it a lot. and if it breaks down: I have two years of warranty. If it lasts two years then the 90 euros was worth it.
A bird on the windowsill says that the current line is being discontinued in october of 22’ a eneby gen3 is on the horizon i suspect
Strange they didn't fit two tweeters.
@PERIZ99 yes it is a mono speaker , just a shame it's not stereo , it does have 2 amplifier chip sets.
Keep costs down its not the 70s anymore sadly
@@ahelpinghand8340 one for highs and one lowpassed in bridge, so it's biamped which is nice, proper active studio monitors actually are biamped aswell
Where did you get the power meater from ?
Made it myself - I have a video on my channel describing how it was made
Hi
Another awesome video. Tx!
I’ve got a few questions that i’ll post in separate comments.
Will a higher input voltage result in a higher power output? If so, it’ll probably need some cooling.
it would, at 8V you can't get the power you would at 18 ...
Darieee I think I’d go for the highest voltage considering the amp is 30W @10% THD and you probably want
well, not always does the highest voltage yield the highest RATED wattage - check the TPA3116 datasheet and you'll see they don't power it with 25 or 26V or whatever was the maximum
also 60W into the subs and 20 into the tweeter is qqquite a looot of power
Really liked your vid.. love watching electronically knowledgeable people do a tear down..I'm just a Linux admin no electronics goeroe.. greetings from the Netherlands
Glad you've enjoyed it
You should love bigclivedotcom though, or mikeselectricstuff .. mike's a god damn legend
Thanks for the teardown! From what you say it should run without any problem I’m 12v. I’m not thinking battery, but I’m considering the little brother (eneby20) as a Bluetooth speaker for a camper. The 20 is just easier to fit in a tiny space, should have enough power and is syncing the volume ;)
so, yeah, 12 to 17(or whatever the main VCC is) should be fine
12 will give a lot less umpf
Also, what're you saying about synced volume ?????????
I’ve got about no clue how I’m going to make this work on 12v... but that’s good to know!
About volume syncing, I was at an ikea here in the NL and there was a A4 sheet to help you to choose your eneby. It seems the eneby portable and eneby 20 do have volume sync ;) at least that’s what I read... didn’t actually checked it...
What is the max voltage it can run off? And would it be better to run off higher voltage? My eneby30 is on 12v now. I wonder if i lose amplifier output (wattage).
My Bluetooth stopped working. Any ideas from anyone?
Lets pray 2019 ikea expands upon this line. I think they will with how they are making more tech products for 2019 already.
Id like to see this speaker as a portable and stereo speaker.
theyre working with Teenage Engineering so there'll probably be better speakers
Is that a joke or is that a real company?
I'm like 99% it's a joke because ... yeah, super amateur mistakes all over the place
@@Darieee LMAO its not a joke its a real company that makes some of the best synths of this decade! most notably the OP-1
Holy shit - yeah, OP-1 is indeed a masterpiece but ... quite dissapoibted in the eneby tbh
@@Darieee the teenage engineering collaborative products wont be available until next month... the eneby is just a ikea product
8:15 remove the annoying sounds ... oh yeah that’s the hot shit
how many centimeter length width
Interested in this speaker. Thank you for your post /review. 🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
How can you be electrocuted when it's not even connected to the mains
Well, that one in 50000 times you think you've unplugged it and actually haven't - you can - actually - get electrocuted xD
abc 123, A electrolytic condensator which charged from 110V/220V store charge from 5 min to a few hours (or even days). Of course If company didn't install a resistor for discharging. It won't kill, but it will hurt =) I says about condensators on the power board which connected to 220V.
p.s. Old TV's have charge a few kVolt - it's dangerous!
wait a minute... you're a electronic "expert" it seems, but dont you forget something????
when going to 12V or even lower, you lose poweroutput. The way it goes loud and hard is the best bit of this speaker
well, then 4S ... or maybe even 5S is the way to go ...
it does thump this thing ... indeed
Is that stereo, or mono?
The CSRA64110 chip inside is mono out, and the aux in down-converted to mono as well
Okay thanks.
Now tear down Symfonisk plz : )
yeah ... I'm really really not interested in speakers with no headphone jacks that require apps for playing to them ...
WTF is up with crappy glue job?
It's not crappy, that's how it's done
@@DarieeeNo. That is how its not done!
When’s the last time you opened up a sub from a big manufacturer like klipsch or something. This is actually not bad at all from what I’ve seen
Stop sniffing
By now I'm curious how many times you'll write this
why are you cursing? Thou shalt not take the name of the Lord thy God in vain
complaining about a 89 dollar speaker
Which could've been way better for an extra 0$