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As someone who owns a 3D printing business, I can safely say it's a lot harder and more work than you'd think it is! Can I just point out that the screens themselves don't emit any light, they just mask off the UV light below them. The reason mono screens are quicker is because they let more light through due to there not being the three coloured subpixels and the accompanying electronics getting in the way.
What should a person getting into 3d printing for Warhammer be looking for in a 3d printer? Been watching some videos but still in the dark on a lot of information.
Get a resin printer, fdm is great for large chunky structures but suck at fine details. Look at the resolution for the screen, the higher the better. Check for buildvolume, if you want to mass produce, pay for a bigger buildvolume. If you want a personal collection, invest in the screen resolution over the buildvolume. Get resins that advertise for lack of smell perhaps even water washable. If you will paint them, resin color won't matter. Whenever you can, buy spare parts.
@@hiddenleaf414 Make sure your playgroup is ok with it first. I know internet people tend to go 'nobody will care', but a lot of groups or clubs will just refuse to allow you to use printed stuff.
As someone who runs a 3D print shop, there is soooo much to learn. FDM is great for terrain, scatter pieces, etc. Resin printers are for detail, and FINE detail or smaller parts. Resin printers are amazing and can pretty much make models better than standard plastic molds for 3 reasons. 1. No mold lines 2. Cheaper cost of production in general 3. Better variety than ANY OTHER RESOURCE for minis. Also as far as customer support, Anycubic has answered every email, and send me replacement parts as needed without any issues. Not sure why folks have so many issues getting help or support. Now the bigger issue is support with printing itself, and again this is more of learning a skill not just plugging in a printer. A lot of the issues you bring up are just learning issues, and as you go you will get better and prints will improve. When the settings stop working, check the parts. Could be a clog, could be poor heating for the bed, you could have a heat leak. Again this is not plug n play as you said, but it's not easy to learn well either. I think the best take away from this, 3D printing is a skill, like working with any tool it takes time to learn how to get well. If you are looking to become a 3D printer as a business take the time and learn it, if you are doing it for fun, just remember it will take time to learn. About the re-level of the build plate, you really should not need to re-level after each print. It might be the way you are knocking the item off the plate. Make sure you only apply pressure to the flat surface area and do not lean the top area on anything while doing that.
Honesty time from someone who sculpts and prints minis: 1 ) Newer machines, such as the Epax X1, have solved many common issues of earlier machines, such as constant levelling, dual Z axis, and so on. They're not perfect, but far better than the original Photon. 2 ) I have both an Epax X1 and a Photon. On the average, barring my OWN mistakes such as insufficient layer exposure time, I have maybe one failed print out of twent to thirty. Ninety nine percent of failed prints occurr because of insufficient or improperly placed supports, or insufficient exposure or far too much exposure. 3 ) If a mini is printed with anti-aliasing on in both the firmware and the file to be printed, a single coat of primer, even from an airbrush, covers almost all visible voxels - and those "visible voxels" are usually so small anyway you'd need a magnifying glass to see them. 4 ) The title of this video is inaccurate. This is NOT "the truth" about 3D printers, it's your OPINION and your EXPERIENCE. You have a distinct tendency to clickbait titles, and it's getting to the point it overshadows your actual points. 5 ) The technical support you recieve from most 3D Printer Communities is leagues better than ANY company's actual tech support channel, so that problem is remarkably insignificant. 6 ) Current gen FDM printers require much less calibration than before - case in point, when I got my Ender 3, as soon as I levelled the bed, I printed off a dice tower - and got amazing results. 7 ) PLA does not shrink on a buildplate. What you think is shrinking on the buildplate is a badly levelled bed. 8 ) Your problems with the build plate on the Photon is your removal, NOT a flaw in the Photon. Printers like the Epax X1 do not have bed levelling at all. 9 ) The screen on my own Anycubic Photon has lasted nearly 2 years, and put many, many liters of resin through it. And the time needed per layer is more dependant on the resin type and UV LED than on the screen used. 10 ) "I hate making supports"... That actually kinda struck me as a similar statement as "I hate painting the miniatures", which I have heard in the FLGS before. And once you learn the proper ways to do it, it takes less than an hour for an entire bed full of figures, and you won't need test prints. 11 ) Yeah, I'm with you on the smell. 12 ) If you don't like the smell of IPA, then Simple Green and similar cleaners also do the job, though they take longer. 13 ) Double plus yes on nitrile gloves and masks. Even if you are not sensitive to the resin, direct contact can cause a sensitivity to develop. A rather horrifying photo of a man who spilled some on his leg, getting second degree chemical burns, has made the rounds of the 3D printing communities. 14 ) Creative curing solutions are fun, but if you live in a sunny area, just stick the model in the window in the sunlight, rotating every 10-20 minutes or so. 15 )Even at $50 per liter, the average figure with base takes less than 10 ml, meaning the figures tend to cost less than 50 cents per figure. 16 ) When using knives or files to trim resin prints, wear a mask. The powdered resin can be as toxic as the liquid. 17 ) Changing the FEP film is a pain. BUT FEP FILMS ARE ONLY $5 - $10 PER SHEET, not $85 like you claim. $85 is the entire tank plus FEP assembly. Repeating #4... This is not "THE TRUTH" about 3D printers, this is YOUR EXPERIENCE. There is good info in this video, but there is also WRONG information. Thus, the title is deceptive.
I gotta say getting into resin 3D printing was the best hobby decisions I've ever made. I'm not much of a player and I mostly just want to paint being able to print anything in different sizes and as many times as I want has enabled me to learn so much more and try things I would have never had the courage to try out on bought models. I'm very glad I made the leap and I loved learning this hobbx
Exactly that! I feel my painting skills would butcher store bought models but I'm getting alot of practise on home printed minitures and surprising myself how well some of then are turning out.
i just ordered one. im more likley the collector and player but i dont like building and painting this much :D still, the time my minis finish off in the printer, ill have loads of time to paint. im pretty hyped on maybe finishing some stuff i have been working on.
Great Video Emil. Trust me , I have had almost the same experience. My FDM I3 clone has needed Nozzles, MOSFETs (That one was fun), new Fans, the Hotend, the extruder. You name it. My Photon has yet to have anything wrong. I ALSO hate doing supports, in fact, I'd rather auto support and scrape and file. But when people ask me about some of the things I have printed and they say they want a 3d printer I always tell them this advice: DO NOT buy a 3d printer unless you are prepared to deal with print failures, constant repair of the machine, constant tweaking of the machine, and hours of prep work. If you aren't prepared to have that happen, don't buy one. That being said... Once you really really get a printer dialed in and a good "production process", it actually becomes rather fun.
I have 2 (fdm & sla) and what you need to understand if you don't have one is, it is it's own hobby. It does supplemnt our painting hobby but it's not just a magic device that works the way you want it to. You have to learn a LOT.
I am definitely interested in buying a printer, and it seems likely that I will, but it is good to hear about the different problems that come from the different versions of printers. Thanks!
I'm not sure what the heck you are doing to your Photon build plate when removing prints....I've never had to recalibrate anything in the 5 months I've been using it and I think our machines are from the same time period. I've always avoided putting any pressure on the joint when removing prints though. I rest the edge of the plate on the table, and hold the plate. I wonder it's just a matter of the set screw on yours not holding as well for some reason. Either way, I'm glad that hasn't been an issue for me because that sort of problem would drive me crazy. I need this to be easy, plug and play, and so far it has been for resin.
Guess who after making the above comment had the worst print job since getting a printer? Seriously, I jinxed myself and printed off 7 minis that had a multitude of different small failures I've never experienced before.
Hey Jeremy! I bought an Anycubic fauxton (there seems to be a Photon version with the Photon S board) after seeing the results both you and Emil were getting. I did have some teething issues (I couldn't fly in an expert to help with the setup :D). Rule one - When you've leveled the platform, tighten that damned grub screw to within an inch/cm of it snapping. There's a small industry in upgrade parts, mostly a double-Z axis support to stop the eventual wobble, and replacement leveling hardware (dispose of the silly ball joint). I've been using an Australian made set of resins from Monocure and have nothing but good results. Iirc, you have a silicone mat or dish that your Photon sits in - excellent idea and great protection should that film ever fail. Now, can anyone point me to a decent Water Elemental file?
My Creality ld-002r came calibrated and i havn't ever had to recalibrate it, though its currently not getting any use due to a resin drought in Australia
I must say getting an Anycubic Wash and Cure was exactly what made me buy a resin printer. I can wash my prints on my buildplate, then remove them after cleaning and never even touch uncured resin. No hassle and perfect prints. And with the newer Resin printers you absolutely do not need to level every 8-10 prints. The last time I leveled was 3 months ago, been printing almost every day.
for messes I use dollar store aluminum baking pans. I have one under the printer in case of any disasters and as well I use one to remove the prints from the bed. All my resin "infected" tools also stay in the pans to keep them together and to make sure im not grabbing them without gloves. As well if you're having an issue with putting too much pressure to peel prints off the bed, try using a razor blade to get it started and then use the putty knife to finish.
Brand new to 3D printing (honestly, I'm still waiting on my first printer, which is in the mail) but I can tell you my number one draw BY FAR is the ability to print terrain. After being dissatisfied for years at the lack of variety in terrain compared to models, I was blown away by the options out there that you can only get by printing yourself. For me, it all came down to the access to those incredible terrain pieces. Even if it takes a ton of machine tweaks, even if it's time-consuming, and even if it costs a fair amount, to me it's all about the freedom to print the various pieces that will make up different boards. Thanks for the vid!
Bought the anycubic along with my first SLA printer, and I have NO regrets. It's a super-smooth process. I bought an extra bin so that I could do a 2-stage wash. Amazing
For me, the best part of 3D printing with resin is that I can get into game systems I would struggle to find minis for. Epic Armageddon minis are a touch expensive these days, but print files are abundant
So I know that this video is already over an year old and a lot has changed since then but basically just don't even try getting into resin printing without a wash and cure machine. Seriously if you have a wash and cure machine resin 3d printing is actually super easy,barely an inconvenience. The printed I've got is anycubic photon mono and I've got anycubic's wash and cure machine 2.0. Had those for almost two months now,printed anything from absolutely massive models to normal troops and never had any issues even as someone who is brand new to 3d printing.
100% just pop them off and put them in the wash clean you plate put it back then you can remove your prints from the wash let it dry then cure it while you set up more stuff to print :)
Your channel is the sole reason I am now back into mini painting after 15 years. Thanks, but also I hate you because I've spent like 250 dollars in the last couple weeks! Love your work, keep making awesome content.
In regards to support from Phrozen at least. I had an issue with my LCD screen 2 weeks in. I contacted them, they responded within the hour, diagnosed the problem and sent me a replacement screen, fed ex. It arrived 2 days later to the West Coast US. I wouldn't call that 'on my own.' They did a great job all the way from Taiwan.
I think the bad rep mainly came from the FDM printers and a lot of that is not due to defective parts always but to the learning process required and that problems will occur on FDM printers that non hobby people expect the manufacturer to respond to. I watched lots of how to videos and regard FDM printing as a hobby in which there is an art to getting good prints. I think resin printing (apart from supports) is more plug and play (and then the clean up).
@@Cloudman572 Dont get me wrong I am very thankful I had this experience and I hope other 3d printer companies follow suit. As far as the learning curve.. yeah that makes sense that the community usually solves those problems.
My phrozen sonic mini started turning off when I told it to print about a month ago and I've been putting off emailing them to find out how much it's going to cost me to fix :/
I bought a 3d printer to realize a 3d space hulk project I've had in my head since 1993, I have done prototypes in balsa wood and cerial box cardboard, and just graphicsboard but that was to hard work. Now I design the parts i fusion then print and paint, a lot easier and better. 🙂
This is a very clear and straightforward presentation. I really appreciate your addressing the costs involved between materials from failed or test prints and repair of parts and components. Thank you.
This video was a game-changer for me. It's so easy to be idealistic especially if a person is budget-minded in what can be an insanely expensive hobby, considering it's plastic toy soldiers. Thank you for keeping it real with both the pro's & cons. This is not as simple as I hoped it would be, and getting into it I can see for sure it's an entirely other hobby itself.
@@3DSculptedPrintedMinis I fully agree with the video. I had to learn a lot of things I never consider before starting in 3d printing, only to keep the printers running, because support from the manufacturers is almost non-existent, and even with the best videos and tutorials on the Net it has been a struggle. And a printer can be running for 2 months in a row almost 24h/24h and then something snaps and everything goes sideways. I remember once I changed the spool (same brand, same PLA) and the printer just refused to work well as it was working before, and I ended up changing the extruder motor. These are samples from my experience. In the end it is not a general public user-friendly technology yet, and anyone who dives into it should be aware.
Yeah it's a great video, and take it from someone who had an Elegoo, which is reccomended virtually everywhere on the internet, it's a pain in the ass to setup every time because most minis you'll find WON'T come with supports and it can take hours to get the supports right on a big mini and you still have a chance to mess it up with a bad FEP or shit. If you enjoy the idea of 3D printing your own designs and you're already a technical person sure, it's cool, but don't expect it to replace buying minis to play big games. Don't listen to the dudes saying it's all squidmar's fault, 3D printing definetely has a learning curve, I wish I saw this video before buying.
This 100%. I have an FDM and SLA printer, and I really like them, but it is a hobby unto itself. Now if you get into it, it's a fantastic compliment to wargaming, but if you want the end product only, definitely consider looking into 3d printing services.
I got into the Hobby about two years ago, when I backed the Lotus EZ printer in Kickstarter. Since then, and after LOTS of failed prints and a learning curve, I and really satisfied with my purchase and how much the 3D-printing brings to the hobby. Only last month, I printed 4 kroxigors, 1 slann, 1 carnosaur, several scenic bases, a couple of busts and spare weapons for the rest of my armies. Even now, I'm printing a totally new set of legs for a Impreial Knight. I believe that, in a not very long future, this technology will be as good as professional manufacturers' miniatures
I've been FDM printing for 3 years and SLA printing minis for painting for a few weeks. I got a LD-002r and used water-washable resin (so no stinky IPA), here's a few notes I would have mentioned in this video for beginners picking which style. - SLA is a lot faster as it prints a whole layer at a time, printing 1 mini at a time is inefficient, you could print 5-10 minis at once and it takes the same amount of time. - Automated supports in ChituBox (software that comes with the chinese ones) can be problematic, models can overlap without warning, supports can penetrate other models. - You need to bear the fluid medium in mind, if you print a mini from foot to head (as they print upside down) a larger mini, when hollowed out will keep a small amount of un-cured resin trapped inside it. You can add holes to the model to let it leak out, but this doesn't always work (resin is quite viscous and the surface tension needs a big hole preferably with a hole elsewhere to let the pressure equalise. - I don't know if it's just the water washable resin or not, but I've found my parts will warp a little causing areas to crack open. This might be me using too thick wall settings (or too thin) FDM requires so much care, worry about fire and moving parts rubbing, I have found SLA despite its flaws a more serene experience. Oh yeah! - SLA is almost silent (only one axis is moving and only gently compared to FDM I hope that extra info might help people considering it, happy to answer any questions.
I bought a Flashforge Finder, it Comes ready to plrint, but it has an unheated bed. Since I have 2 kids at home I thought it would be dangerous to get a ender. I have no regrets, just use stick glue and calibrate every print, but it have assisted calibration, so its a breeze.
It was definitely a long journey learning each printer for me. Opening the cr10 my first printer i felt lost after even putting it together there was so much to learn i can see how new users can feel overwhelmed. But when you need something the community has so many paid and free options to complete your tabletop game. Btw keep up the good work Emile
I have both a resin and a filament and I would say that for anyone looking for the best bang for buck is to go right to resin. the technology is way more reliable and has progressed quite well. I have much more failures in print on the PLA printer and the calibration is very tricky to get right.
The zip tie your showing looks to have the smooth side away from the cables it's locking down. That is a wrongly installed zip tie if it is the case. Most zip ties will have a completely smooth side and a side with ridges that the locking tooth clamps on to for securing the tie in place. If the non-smooth side is placed facing towards cables/wires, even if has a protective higher edging, if it is overly tightened down small vibrations will cause it to begin to cut in to the sheathing of the cables/wires. With the 3D printer you'll be getting a ton of micro vibrations from the head on the unit moving and stopping all the time.
Hey Emil. I really confirm with some of your Statements. 3d printing is a Hobby for its own, even with expensive preasambled. You have to dive into and learn. But if you Do it bravely and learn using cad Software too, you come to the point when you know The behavior of its and IT will become just a Tool to materialise your ideas out from nothing. But now my nonconfirms. I have got ftm and sla Printers too. Ftm printing: I never had nearly as much cloggingproblems you told of. I stopped buying expansive Brand filaments long ago because the 10€ chinafilament Do the Job as well. I Level my bed once a month and IT takes max 2minutes, i leave my printer after starting without even atend the first layer becaus i know it will work. Sla printing: 5meter selfsticking uv led Band (405nm) with powersupply costs about 15€. Sticked in an old pot makes te best curinglamp you can imagine. I only pour The resin back in the bottle when i have a failprint and need to clean The foil. I printed a cap for the resinvat and leave it inside. My exposuretime per layer is 5sek at 0,05mm layer. At 0,02 just 3seks and IT works great. When i clean my prints i dont allow The resin to cause a mess just by working inside a ikeabox. And at Last, your allright. PLACING SUPPORTS IS JUST A F.C.K.ING PAIN IN THE ASS!
Got gifted a prusa mk2 a while ago but have not ever used it. Bought the photon and wash/cure station for about 300 and it has been really simple to use. The bloodfields models have been simple to slice and print and have not failed yet. I think this has given me the motivation to replace the PEI on the Prusa and give it a go too.
Then you probably want a filament printer. The resin printers produce awesome surface detail, but they're limited to a fairly small build volume. Basically whatever will fit on a big phone screen.
I think this was the most useful video on this subject that I have seen. Clearly the best solution for me is to find a friend who has a printer, but doesn't like to paint and get a quid pro quo going.
My little elder 3 is still kicking after a year of pretty consistent use. I did upgrade the build plate. I even get passable minis(possible for me I have low standards). I’m a really basic painter, Stuff looks good on the table and players love it. I’m not going to be winning awards but FDM is fantastic for terrain. There are so many talented artists making free stuff.
I use PLA+ almost exclusively. Try it. It glues better, sands better, and bends a bit. I also use two i3 megas, and print at least 36 hours a week. Also gloves are hard to find right now where I live. Part of the reason my resin printer are dormant.
I got a flash forge for Christmas. It’s awesome! Having a blast with it. Probably one of the best gifts I ever received. I highly recommend 3D printing for anyone who enjoys making stuff.
Regarding your build plate needing recalibration: The head assembly is actually very good the problem is the printers often ship with loose hex screws in the ball bearing part of the build plate wich can lead to plate alignment issues. You can solve this by disassembling the entire plate head and tightening all internal screws (all tools come with the printer) After about 5 min of work your build plate will be rock solid and you can print for months without needing to relevel the plate. Also with the flint Reed method and a post it note to write down the offset from your home point eliminates the need to remove and empty the vat when leveling. Breakdowns and screen replacement are also a non issue the replacement parts are cheap and my 2 photons are running for 2 and 1,5 years respectively 18L of resin run through them and neither pixel errors nor a reduction in quality or curing time. The smell can be almost eliminated with eco resin but good ventilation is a MUST!
LED strips can be had relatively cheaply for curing. You can buy a kit on e-bay. You stick the strip to the inside of a small bin. Incredible amount of light produced using these. 5 meters is more than enough. 410 nm is typical for most resins, check the bottle & select LEDs with that wave length. UV "A" is from about 380/390 or less so you won't give yourself cancer or go blind with 410nm, just avoid staring at LEDs, you shouldn't do that with ANY bright lights, it's just common sense. 410nm is within the spectrum of visible light so you will know it's on. Aluminium foil just helps bounce the light about a bit so not a bad plan to cover the inside of a bin with it, just don't short anything out. Again, a bit of common sense is all that is required. This is a way better plan than nail polish units. It's super bight, 360 light & dirt cheap.
I can help you with clogs on your nozzle. Also, try Water washable resins. They are the same as the normal ones, same price, same quality... but you can clean the VAT, minis and everything just using water. No more IPA, smells and extra costs.
you should try Elegoo. its a dream. did 60+ prints in a month didn't have to recalibrate or clean once. kept the vat filled kept bumping out prints. A full mini is printed in 2 hours when laid flat and about 4 hours when standing (32mm)
Right on time. Just thought about buying a 3D printer and this one was the best sources to get an overview on how work with one is. Decided against buying it for now, since i currently have no time for another hobby.
3D printing is awesome, but I mostly paint miniatures for fun and this still seems like a pretty big hassle still. I think in a few years once things are much more simple and easy I might get into it.
I have a shop in Etsy where I sell custom made 3d prints it's £10 per every 100 metres of filament if you want to know what that looks like it's 200g of filament which is actually quite large it's around this guy's head maybe a little less but the point is you could order like 50 miniatures for £10 or spend a bunch more money elsewhere
i journeyed into 3D printer because of Titan Forge, theyre definitely a good company to back, they actually listen to their community's feedback!! lovely minis too
Your comment about printing terrain and buying miniatures is where I'm at right now. The Filament printer is a workhorse for 3-4 months out of the year. That being said, I am thinking about making the jump to resin just to see if I like it. Thanks for the video.
I got an Anycubic Photon for my birthday. It took me a long time to stop having failed prints. But once the prints started coming out consistently it has been very rewarding. It's fun to be able to print a variety of things, combine and paint them up, and then give them out as gifts tailor made to a specific person. But the resin... omg... such a hassle
I haven't had any problem and I went for the high end fdm printer that prints carbon fiber nylon. But I am a person that likes learning things and find that failures give me massive knowledge.
I got the elegoo water washable resin, and I have a large metal container with a reflective inside and lid from a popcorn set that I got for super cheap from work. I'm just gonna throw some uv LEDs in there and bam. Printer comes this week and I'm excited. I've had an fdm printer I've done alot of repairs a know all the internal mechanics from taking it apart and I'm nervous but ready to face any fixes needed for the sla printer.
I have dove into 3d printing recently, I now own 2 fdm printers (ender 3 pro and ender 5 plus) and 3 resin printers, 1 anycubic photon and 2 phrozen sonic mini's. It Is a learning curve and does have some negatives. But it is so fun to be a less to print what you need as you go! I highly recommend phrozen sonic mini myself.. amazing speed and same details at mars or photon.
I have had my fdm for over a year now. It was actually my pinter that got me into painting minis. Hoping to get a resin printer soon. I feel like it's something you have to get your head around. (Bed leveling, supports, cura, settings.) But after you get the hang of it it's so good. You can make pretty much anything.
A little trick to simply remove the supports without any marks left, is warm water. Like 50-60 C°, put the miniature inside for 1 minute and after remove the supports. It's much easier.
I read a lot of the falling LCD screen of the 3d printing community after I bought the anycubic photon S and I probably one of the really lucky ones, I mean a really used a lot for at least 6 months and the only problem I have so far is a weird sound of stress metal in the Z axis, I just tight the screws and re-grease it and the problem was gone.
I started miniature painting because I have a resin printer (Prusa SL1) and got my hands on some free miniature models I printed out of curiosity. 🤣 I'm really good at 3D design, but now I also have started to do some 3D modelling to make my own custom miniatures. ... I really need more time for all these hobbies because I rarely get something finished.
I was so hyped before jumping into 3D printing, now after few months I can just agree, it is stand alone hobby. Personally I think this technology is so ridiculous time and afford consuming, often frustrating but at the end gives satisfaction;)
Getting into printing so I can print terrain and custom cosmetic parts for my figures. Example giving katselan robots custom heads to look more fitting of the grim dark 40k, or could just give them literal Baymax heads
the photon ultra now will provide higher detail printing with no disposable screen, also you can use water-washable resin which now doesn't smell that much and doesn't require ISO
I watched this when it came out and again just now as my cousin bought a 3d printer and printing terrain seems REALLY appealing but with young kids in the house and not being patient to begin with I'm glad this was an honest video. I think I can wait a few more years maybe.
Yes I am interested in 3D printing. I have been interested for over 9 years and I finely pulled the trigger and a Epax E10 and a Anycubic wash and cure station. I have family and friends who play D&D. But my real love is model trains and buildings. Thank you for sharing this video. Do you have a video on slicing? I would be very interested in your view on this part of 3D printing.
Thanks for this video. It was really informative and helped my decision making. Most people downplay a lot of the downfalls and I didn't realize the ongoing costs were so high.
I got lucky we got 3D printers at work and I have worked up from the standard FDM to a more complicated Dual nozzle FDM and now we have 2 laser resin printers and while all of them were a bit of a curve to learn I loved figured them out even though they can cause you to pull your hair out at times.
It’s a hobby - you got that right. I have bought two FDM printers, an Anet A8 and an Ender 3. Each sounded cheap at the beginning but in reality each cost me over £250 trying to put things right by replacing faulty parts or adding improvements. And then there was the time, boy was there time needed to research how best to set these things up and get them running properly. And it wouldn’t be so bad if you did all that research, got it working and it was reliable - but it isn’t. It can work great on Tuesday, go to use it on Wednesday and it is terrible. Then you spend most of Wednesday tweaking and testing to get it back to how it was on Tuesday. And then on Thursday you start all over again. And the reality I haven’t used them that much. I tried printing out some tanks (I’m into military wargaming) but the success rate was poor and I wasn’t even happy with the good ones because of the layering. So I reckon I have spent over £500, I dread to think how many hours I have invested and not printed that much. I would have been better off just buying the models that I wanted. Now I see the SLA printers and they look amazing. My heart really wants one but my brain is saying “do you want to waste another £250”. The SLA printers do look much better (apart from size limitations) and I suspect they are, but anyone that has been through the budget FDM route (especially the early ones) might carry scars like me.
Interested to know how do people join multipart miniatures you print. I've bought a UV pen light and with a fine brush I fill a portion of the joint with a small amount of resin. Then hit the liquid resin with the UV to cure it. I find it a better joint than super glue for my miniatures and it fills any gaps formed from multipart prints not matching perfectly. I usually have a second brush to wipe any poorly placed resin during the process. Also find you can use this to touch up spots where a support broke poorly and left a large divot. So far its working pretty well.
having problems removing the model of the build plate. then you will need to dial in the base exposure as its to high. dial back by 10. check the next print and then if you need to dial back again do another 10 or 5 till its dialed in. all i have to do with my photons is just catch under the corner of a print then i can just slide it under. the new photon mono range is awesome.
also with the old photon if you need to use the off time. this allows the lcd and uv array time to cool down between layers increasing the life of your lcd screen. i tend to use 6.5 seconds off for prints under 7 hours and 13 for prints over 7 hours. this will increase print time but save the lcd screen from burning out. if your using chitu. then set the bottom off time to half the time you set your base exposure. hope this helps. :)
I have decided to get a 3D printer at the end of the year. Now that they have models with support it's already added and they're doing test prints before they give you the models I am more apt to get into the "hobby". I just have not decided what printer to get but there's no point in deciding now if I don't get one for another six months because it'll all be different by then.
Thanks for this video! I’ve decided not to get into 3d printing since I don’t have the time or patience. I get a discount at my local game store so it’s better for me to buy models and terrain. This video helped me out to make that decision after months of deciding on it.
For someone who is currently looking into 3d printing to enhance my builds, this video was really helpful. I hadn't seen all of these considerations covered in one video before, thanks so much mate. Gave me a lot to think about before I buy. Cheers.
Many of his conclusions come from a position of ignorance or user error. The entire bed leveling issue as well as breaking screens is essentially nonexistent. Unless you get a defective machine you won't need to replace anything in the first 2-3 years of printing except for the fep sheet wich comes with replacemens if you buy a printer.
I purchased an ender 5 pro and sonic mini. I use them for printing up KS that I've backed and love it. The FDM calibrating and leveling is definitely a pain in the ass but the terrain ive printed on it have been amazing. Can't wait for my Elegoo Saturn to come in.
I have an ender 3 pro FDM printer. It's hands down the best thing I've ever bought, It just keeps giving and giving. By my calculation printing terrain is almost always WAY cheaper than buying it. Especially with smaller pieces. Larger pieces/higher surface area prints obviously require more filament and are more expensive, I think in most cases its still cheaper, even cheaper than mdf kits. You gotta remember for bought terrain the price goes up very quickly with size/quantity. I didn't have as much issue getting started as you did although I have had my fair share of clogs and failed prints, mostly due to poor filament quality and too low nozzle temperature. There are a few things that need to be upgraded like the bowden tube. those parts aren't too expensive. There is definitely a learning curve both with using the machine and the print settings, and it can have breakdowns but I think its worth it for how much you get back. I've been printing monster miniatures for frostgrave and Rangers of shadow deep, most designs I've gotten for free on thingiverse. The cost of printing minis/mobs on fdm is so low its crazy, literally a few cents each. yeh the quality is often not fantastic but I'm happy just to cheaply and quickly get figures on the board so I can play.
I know this video was 2 yr ago so it’s a different story now but it’s worth saying I have a resin printer and after buying an any cubic wash/cure station for £100 there is next to no mess and 0 hassle. Honestly was the best solution for me as using an ultrasonic and UV light was rubbish. It has a nice plastic container which keeps all the stinking alcohol stored away Plus it fits the build plate from my phrozen so that gets cleaned at the same time It’s so dam easy and hassle free
It is DEFINITELY an entirely second hobby when you get into it - it's not a magical mini and terrain spewing machine (although it seems like it sometimes). If you're on the fence, a good alternative is to find someone in your community close by that has a 3d printer. I live in a rather dense urban area, and before getting an FDM printer, I had stuff printed for really cheap by a guy who just lives a few miles away - I'd just bike to his house. I know there are some Print-for-fee services around, but if you find someone with a printer in a local gaming or modelling group, they'll often print a file for you now and again for free (or for a beer). It is a labor, in addition to the (minimal) materials cost.
Should have gotten an Ender 3! Yes, you have to build it, but that helps you get familiar with the machine. My Ender 3 produces amazing models and has been reliable. Prints stick very well, no adhesive on build plate, rafts, etc. Inly had one clog nozzle but that was more user error. Replaced and its back on action. Now I print no stop, very cool machine that has expanded my skillls in various aspects:)
Get the elegoo mars. I have been printing 4+ liters a month with it and I've never had to recalibrate the build plate after the first time and I've only pulled the reservoir twice. All I do now is run a custom comb through the vat if I have a failure.. Lately all I've done is just add more resin..
You ended up talking me out of taking the plunge, which is not at all a bad thing. I just don't have the time to invest in the endeavor, as cool as it seems. Thank you for the assist!
thank you for doing this detailed video on 3D printing. It really helps put the subject into a clear context for me. I have watched 3D printing improve very fast and it seems to be getting even better and potentially cheaper as time passes. I plan on holding off due to financial and time constraints, but I look forward to adding 3D printing to my hobby toolkit at some future date. Thx!
If your were thinking about getting a fdm 3d printer like a ender 3 or 5 you really shouldn't listen to what this guy says, almost all the problems he mentioned were user error like very clearly buying the wrong parts for upgrading, not reading the ideal temperature for the filament he was using, or not leveling the build plate. You should check out some channels entirety focused on 3d printing for a better "review"
Loved this, I love 3D print and I actually work on my day job with it, but there is a LOT of overestimating, and I'd even say some shade from some people, about 3D printing specially when compared to injection mold minis. Im talking about the "3D printing is here and GW better get with the program!" kind of people,that saying this kind of stuff means you both don't know nothing about 3D printing as about miniature manufacturing at all, also in the 3D "sculpting" community there is a lot of scammy files, stuff that look AWESOME on the computer screen but just aren't gonna look good on the print no matter how spot on is your settings and calibration, it's about the design not being thought out for a miniature and got over detailed and didn't manage scale and proportion variants properly, that happening cuz more often than not 3D sculptors don't sculpt traditionally and get lost in the infinite possibilities and zoom that the computer screen gives you. For me 3D printing and Sculpting is absolute great and it's a game changer, as a complement of traditional sculpting and injection mold.
That is not really something depending on the printer you use, but on the layer height in the slicer program you use. I myself have an ender 3 and use 0.08mm layer height for high detailed (large/terrain)models and i cant see the obvious layer lines straight away, and after some sanding then even washes can be used
Unless you sand every surface, every nook and kranny then all FDM printers will show printer lines and washes and dry brushing tend to accentuate the layers. Low layer height (meaning slower prints) helps and box like objects tend to look better than highly curves objects. The thing is do you want them to look fine on a wargaming table/diorama (no problem) or are you looking to produce golden dragon winning painted scenes (major problem). Highest quality results without going to commercial grade $1000+ printers is probably Prusa. I have an Ender 3 lightly modified and more than happy with the results at tabletop distance.
Ender 3 is still the best bang for your buck. But I agree with other comments here, the layer lines are brutal. Even with Fat Dragon Game's settings it isn't great painted.
3+ with my Prusa and never had any of the issues on FDM printers talked about above. The support is world class. I do not purchase cheap Chinese filament and never had and issue. I have had zero blobs or adhesion failures. The printer is rock solid. My EPAX X1, again, rock solid but I hate using it given all the cleaning and curing process. I have only had to check the level once. I hate that I have had to change my LCD and I hate changing the nFEP. I cannot complain about the quality of the prints. IMHO, when it comes to terrain, it is cheaper to print than it is to buy. When it comes to miniatures, it is probably as expensive when printing resin especially if you are purchasing professionally developed miniatures STLs. I like 3D printing as my hobby. I have created a lot of functional prints.
@@pjpaella I have 2 Prusa MK3S printers. One has been upgraded starting with a Prusa 2.5 and the other started as a MK3 and then got the MK3 to MK3S upgrade kit. I have PEI smooth plate for PLA and textured plate for everything else. I have almost 4K print hours on the first printer and over 3K print hours on the second.
I also bought an i3 Mega FDM printer first up, very happy so far with it. I'm thinking of getting a resin and this video was great to examine some pros and cons. Thanks Emil!
Great stuff as always. Good to hear about the positives and negatives. Given the heaps of unpainted figs I have right now I have No doubt that the printers will be collecting dust at times after a while. Will get printers after the Summer I think. Also can't wait for your Kickstarter! Really hiping for Good brushes at somehwat decent prices! Keep up the good work!
For the clog up problems change your nozzle to a known quality brand and make sure you store your filements in bags. Also you can make a small spunge cleaning arm which there are many examples online.
I have the Prusa SLA1 ( and a couple fdm printers not prusa). Hands down the Prusa is best printer I have. Only issue I have had was when I moved it, I didn't level the printer and had a failed print.
I would love to get into 3D printing but don’t currently have the space, looking to move soon to somewhere with a dedicated ventilated hobby area so maybe after that. My interest isn’t really in printing whole bits of terrain or even models, but customisation parts for existing miniatures. I do a lot of converting and would design my own bits to print, it’s likely that I’d never print anything larger than a full 28-32mm miniature. I guess this means that any printer I own would be left unused for longer periods while a design is refined etc, but with proper cleaning that shouldn’t be an issue.
the only video I will disagree with, and here is why: - The main issue with FDMs are things you know and know how to fix if you buy not a ready product but kit - bought my kit from china 6 years ago and the knowledge I got from building the printer got me prepared for the FDM issues -DLP supports - manually adding supports is a skill, but once obtained - adding supports take 30 sec per model, you spend less resin on manual supports than those automatically generated and you can add them in such a way that they are either not that visible and/or easier to remove. Oh, and also I have one of the first Photons from the original batch and still no screen issues, the key is to use only black resin (cured fastest) and avoid overcooking the model (6s print time for layer is more than enough)
🏆🏆🏆 I've made my own dream brushes and miniatures! Squidmar MKI Paintbrushes & Busts Kickstarter campaign; Late pledges are up and You can check it out here:
www.squidmar.com/latepledge 🏆🏆🏆
Whats the source for the fur used in the brushes?
As someone who owns a 3D printing business, I can safely say it's a lot harder and more work than you'd think it is! Can I just point out that the screens themselves don't emit any light, they just mask off the UV light below them. The reason mono screens are quicker is because they let more light through due to there not being the three coloured subpixels and the accompanying electronics getting in the way.
What should a person getting into 3d printing for Warhammer be looking for in a 3d printer?
Been watching some videos but still in the dark on a lot of information.
Get a resin printer, fdm is great for large chunky structures but suck at fine details.
Look at the resolution for the screen, the higher the better.
Check for buildvolume, if you want to mass produce, pay for a bigger buildvolume. If you want a personal collection, invest in the screen resolution over the buildvolume.
Get resins that advertise for lack of smell perhaps even water washable.
If you will paint them, resin color won't matter.
Whenever you can, buy spare parts.
@@hiddenleaf414 Make sure your playgroup is ok with it first. I know internet people tend to go 'nobody will care', but a lot of groups or clubs will just refuse to allow you to use printed stuff.
@@GoldenSunAlex A lot of groups and clubs can fuck off.
@@kdhlkjhdlk Sounds like you've been kicked out of a group for using fake minis then...
As someone who runs a 3D print shop, there is soooo much to learn. FDM is great for terrain, scatter pieces, etc. Resin printers are for detail, and FINE detail or smaller parts. Resin printers are amazing and can pretty much make models better than standard plastic molds for 3 reasons. 1. No mold lines 2. Cheaper cost of production in general 3. Better variety than ANY OTHER RESOURCE for minis. Also as far as customer support, Anycubic has answered every email, and send me replacement parts as needed without any issues. Not sure why folks have so many issues getting help or support. Now the bigger issue is support with printing itself, and again this is more of learning a skill not just plugging in a printer. A lot of the issues you bring up are just learning issues, and as you go you will get better and prints will improve. When the settings stop working, check the parts. Could be a clog, could be poor heating for the bed, you could have a heat leak. Again this is not plug n play as you said, but it's not easy to learn well either. I think the best take away from this, 3D printing is a skill, like working with any tool it takes time to learn how to get well. If you are looking to become a 3D printer as a business take the time and learn it, if you are doing it for fun, just remember it will take time to learn. About the re-level of the build plate, you really should not need to re-level after each print. It might be the way you are knocking the item off the plate. Make sure you only apply pressure to the flat surface area and do not lean the top area on anything while doing that.
Honesty time from someone who sculpts and prints minis:
1 ) Newer machines, such as the Epax X1, have solved many common issues of earlier machines, such as constant levelling, dual Z axis, and so on. They're not perfect, but far better than the original Photon.
2 ) I have both an Epax X1 and a Photon. On the average, barring my OWN mistakes such as insufficient layer exposure time, I have maybe one failed print out of twent to thirty. Ninety nine percent of failed prints occurr because of insufficient or improperly placed supports, or insufficient exposure or far too much exposure.
3 ) If a mini is printed with anti-aliasing on in both the firmware and the file to be printed, a single coat of primer, even from an airbrush, covers almost all visible voxels - and those "visible voxels" are usually so small anyway you'd need a magnifying glass to see them.
4 ) The title of this video is inaccurate. This is NOT "the truth" about 3D printers, it's your OPINION and your EXPERIENCE. You have a distinct tendency to clickbait titles, and it's getting to the point it overshadows your actual points.
5 ) The technical support you recieve from most 3D Printer Communities is leagues better than ANY company's actual tech support channel, so that problem is remarkably insignificant.
6 ) Current gen FDM printers require much less calibration than before - case in point, when I got my Ender 3, as soon as I levelled the bed, I printed off a dice tower - and got amazing results.
7 ) PLA does not shrink on a buildplate. What you think is shrinking on the buildplate is a badly levelled bed.
8 ) Your problems with the build plate on the Photon is your removal, NOT a flaw in the Photon. Printers like the Epax X1 do not have bed levelling at all.
9 ) The screen on my own Anycubic Photon has lasted nearly 2 years, and put many, many liters of resin through it. And the time needed per layer is more dependant on the resin type and UV LED than on the screen used.
10 ) "I hate making supports"... That actually kinda struck me as a similar statement as "I hate painting the miniatures", which I have heard in the FLGS before. And once you learn the proper ways to do it, it takes less than an hour for an entire bed full of figures, and you won't need test prints.
11 ) Yeah, I'm with you on the smell.
12 ) If you don't like the smell of IPA, then Simple Green and similar cleaners also do the job, though they take longer.
13 ) Double plus yes on nitrile gloves and masks. Even if you are not sensitive to the resin, direct contact can cause a sensitivity to develop. A rather horrifying photo of a man who spilled some on his leg, getting second degree chemical burns, has made the rounds of the 3D printing communities.
14 ) Creative curing solutions are fun, but if you live in a sunny area, just stick the model in the window in the sunlight, rotating every 10-20 minutes or so.
15 )Even at $50 per liter, the average figure with base takes less than 10 ml, meaning the figures tend to cost less than 50 cents per figure.
16 ) When using knives or files to trim resin prints, wear a mask. The powdered resin can be as toxic as the liquid.
17 ) Changing the FEP film is a pain. BUT FEP FILMS ARE ONLY $5 - $10 PER SHEET, not $85 like you claim. $85 is the entire tank plus FEP assembly.
Repeating #4... This is not "THE TRUTH" about 3D printers, this is YOUR EXPERIENCE. There is good info in this video, but there is also WRONG information. Thus, the title is deceptive.
I gotta say getting into resin 3D printing was the best hobby decisions I've ever made. I'm not much of a player and I mostly just want to paint being able to print anything in different sizes and as many times as I want has enabled me to learn so much more and try things I would have never had the courage to try out on bought models. I'm very glad I made the leap and I loved learning this hobbx
Exactly that! I feel my painting skills would butcher store bought models but I'm getting alot of practise on home printed minitures and surprising myself how well some of then are turning out.
Do you know how much you have to pay per printed model in resin costs?
I would be intrested in 3D printing for cost reasons.
@@Over_Head_Press A few dollars per print
i just ordered one. im more likley the collector and player but i dont like building and painting this much :D
still, the time my minis finish off in the printer, ill have loads of time to paint.
im pretty hyped on maybe finishing some stuff i have been working on.
Great Video Emil. Trust me , I have had almost the same experience. My FDM I3 clone has needed Nozzles, MOSFETs (That one was fun), new Fans, the Hotend, the extruder. You name it. My Photon has yet to have anything wrong. I ALSO hate doing supports, in fact, I'd rather auto support and scrape and file. But when people ask me about some of the things I have printed and they say they want a 3d printer I always tell them this advice: DO NOT buy a 3d printer unless you are prepared to deal with print failures, constant repair of the machine, constant tweaking of the machine, and hours of prep work. If you aren't prepared to have that happen, don't buy one. That being said... Once you really really get a printer dialed in and a good "production process", it actually becomes rather fun.
this was the most informative review of 3d printers in general that I have seen, thank you.
I have 2 (fdm & sla) and what you need to understand if you don't have one is, it is it's own hobby. It does supplemnt our painting hobby but it's not just a magic device that works the way you want it to. You have to learn a LOT.
one of my friends got a 3d printer before lockdown here in england and they say it is amazing.
cool story bro'
My prusa is coming tommorow. So excited
I am definitely interested in buying a printer, and it seems likely that I will, but it is good to hear about the different problems that come from the different versions of printers. Thanks!
I'm not sure what the heck you are doing to your Photon build plate when removing prints....I've never had to recalibrate anything in the 5 months I've been using it and I think our machines are from the same time period. I've always avoided putting any pressure on the joint when removing prints though. I rest the edge of the plate on the table, and hold the plate. I wonder it's just a matter of the set screw on yours not holding as well for some reason. Either way, I'm glad that hasn't been an issue for me because that sort of problem would drive me crazy. I need this to be easy, plug and play, and so far it has been for resin.
Yeah that confused me a bit too - I never need to chisel my prints off however, but I could definitely see it happening if that was the case
Guess who after making the above comment had the worst print job since getting a printer? Seriously, I jinxed myself and printed off 7 minis that had a multitude of different small failures I've never experienced before.
Haha, my condolences 😂 I did not calibrate it Every time, but def A Lot more often. 😁
Hey Jeremy! I bought an Anycubic fauxton (there seems to be a Photon version with the Photon S board) after seeing the results both you and Emil were getting. I did have some teething issues (I couldn't fly in an expert to help with the setup :D). Rule one - When you've leveled the platform, tighten that damned grub screw to within an inch/cm of it snapping. There's a small industry in upgrade parts, mostly a double-Z axis support to stop the eventual wobble, and replacement leveling hardware (dispose of the silly ball joint). I've been using an Australian made set of resins from Monocure and have nothing but good results.
Iirc, you have a silicone mat or dish that your Photon sits in - excellent idea and great protection should that film ever fail.
Now, can anyone point me to a decent Water Elemental file?
My Creality ld-002r came calibrated and i havn't ever had to recalibrate it, though its currently not getting any use due to a resin drought in Australia
I must say getting an Anycubic Wash and Cure was exactly what made me buy a resin printer. I can wash my prints on my buildplate, then remove them after cleaning and never even touch uncured resin. No hassle and perfect prints. And with the newer Resin printers you absolutely do not need to level every 8-10 prints. The last time I leveled was 3 months ago, been printing almost every day.
for messes I use dollar store aluminum baking pans. I have one under the printer in case of any disasters and as well I use one to remove the prints from the bed. All my resin "infected" tools also stay in the pans to keep them together and to make sure im not grabbing them without gloves. As well if you're having an issue with putting too much pressure to peel prints off the bed, try using a razor blade to get it started and then use the putty knife to finish.
Brand new to 3D printing (honestly, I'm still waiting on my first printer, which is in the mail) but I can tell you my number one draw BY FAR is the ability to print terrain. After being dissatisfied for years at the lack of variety in terrain compared to models, I was blown away by the options out there that you can only get by printing yourself. For me, it all came down to the access to those incredible terrain pieces. Even if it takes a ton of machine tweaks, even if it's time-consuming, and even if it costs a fair amount, to me it's all about the freedom to print the various pieces that will make up different boards. Thanks for the vid!
OpenLock, True Tiles etc. - Lego for terrain building!
Bought the anycubic along with my first SLA printer, and I have NO regrets. It's a super-smooth process. I bought an extra bin so that I could do a 2-stage wash. Amazing
For me, the best part of 3D printing with resin is that I can get into game systems I would struggle to find minis for. Epic Armageddon minis are a touch expensive these days, but print files are abundant
So I know that this video is already over an year old and a lot has changed since then but basically just don't even try getting into resin printing without a wash and cure machine.
Seriously if you have a wash and cure machine resin 3d printing is actually super easy,barely an inconvenience. The printed I've got is anycubic photon mono and I've got anycubic's wash and cure machine 2.0. Had those for almost two months now,printed anything from absolutely massive models to normal troops and never had any issues even as someone who is brand new to 3d printing.
100% just pop them off and put them in the wash clean you plate put it back then you can remove your prints from the wash let it dry then cure it while you set up more stuff to print :)
Your channel is the sole reason I am now back into mini painting after 15 years. Thanks, but also I hate you because I've spent like 250 dollars in the last couple weeks! Love your work, keep making awesome content.
Haha sorry, not sorry 😂
In regards to support from Phrozen at least. I had an issue with my LCD screen 2 weeks in. I contacted them, they responded within the hour, diagnosed the problem and sent me a replacement screen, fed ex. It arrived 2 days later to the West Coast US. I wouldn't call that 'on my own.' They did a great job all the way from Taiwan.
That's great news :D not all brands are this communicative
I think the bad rep mainly came from the FDM printers and a lot of that is not due to defective parts always but to the learning process required and that problems will occur on FDM printers that non hobby people expect the manufacturer to respond to. I watched lots of how to videos and regard FDM printing as a hobby in which there is an art to getting good prints. I think resin printing (apart from supports) is more plug and play (and then the clean up).
@@Cloudman572 Dont get me wrong I am very thankful I had this experience and I hope other 3d printer companies follow suit. As far as the learning curve.. yeah that makes sense that the community usually solves those problems.
My phrozen sonic mini started turning off when I told it to print about a month ago and I've been putting off emailing them to find out how much it's going to cost me to fix :/
I bought a 3d printer to realize a 3d space hulk project I've had in my head since 1993, I have done prototypes in balsa wood and cerial box cardboard, and just graphicsboard but that was to hard work. Now I design the parts i fusion then print and paint, a lot easier and better. 🙂
This is a very clear and straightforward presentation. I really appreciate your addressing the costs involved between materials from failed or test prints and repair of parts and components. Thank you.
cheap printers are a great teacher to 3d printing. you will replace EVERYTHING in the end.
This video was a game-changer for me. It's so easy to be idealistic especially if a person is budget-minded in what can be an insanely expensive hobby, considering it's plastic toy soldiers. Thank you for keeping it real with both the pro's & cons. This is not as simple as I hoped it would be, and getting into it I can see for sure it's an entirely other hobby itself.
Can honestly say I'm now obsessed with this channel. It's one of the only channels for which I have the notifications on.
Before this video: I want a cool 3d printer!
After this video: Maaaaybe I will wait a few more years....
I was thinking the same thing, I think I'll get an airbrush instead
DON'T listen to just this video. He is only giving his OWN experiences. Find other videos, he does seem to be having more problems than average.
Get a prusa. Best support
@@3DSculptedPrintedMinis I fully agree with the video. I had to learn a lot of things I never consider before starting in 3d printing, only to keep the printers running, because support from the manufacturers is almost non-existent, and even with the best videos and tutorials on the Net it has been a struggle. And a printer can be running for 2 months in a row almost 24h/24h and then something snaps and everything goes sideways. I remember once I changed the spool (same brand, same PLA) and the printer just refused to work well as it was working before, and I ended up changing the extruder motor. These are samples from my experience. In the end it is not a general public user-friendly technology yet, and anyone who dives into it should be aware.
Yeah it's a great video, and take it from someone who had an Elegoo, which is reccomended virtually everywhere on the internet, it's a pain in the ass to setup every time because most minis you'll find WON'T come with supports and it can take hours to get the supports right on a big mini and you still have a chance to mess it up with a bad FEP or shit. If you enjoy the idea of 3D printing your own designs and you're already a technical person sure, it's cool, but don't expect it to replace buying minis to play big games. Don't listen to the dudes saying it's all squidmar's fault, 3D printing definetely has a learning curve, I wish I saw this video before buying.
This 100%. I have an FDM and SLA printer, and I really like them, but it is a hobby unto itself. Now if you get into it, it's a fantastic compliment to wargaming, but if you want the end product only, definitely consider looking into 3d printing services.
Very good advice, I have been saying the same but in a lot less succinct way.
I got into the Hobby about two years ago, when I backed the Lotus EZ printer in Kickstarter. Since then, and after LOTS of failed prints and a learning curve, I and really satisfied with my purchase and how much the 3D-printing brings to the hobby. Only last month, I printed 4 kroxigors, 1 slann, 1 carnosaur, several scenic bases, a couple of busts and spare weapons for the rest of my armies. Even now, I'm printing a totally new set of legs for a Impreial Knight. I believe that, in a not very long future, this technology will be as good as professional manufacturers' miniatures
I've been FDM printing for 3 years and SLA printing minis for painting for a few weeks. I got a LD-002r and used water-washable resin (so no stinky IPA), here's a few notes I would have mentioned in this video for beginners picking which style.
- SLA is a lot faster as it prints a whole layer at a time, printing 1 mini at a time is inefficient, you could print 5-10 minis at once and it takes the same amount of time.
- Automated supports in ChituBox (software that comes with the chinese ones) can be problematic, models can overlap without warning, supports can penetrate other models.
- You need to bear the fluid medium in mind, if you print a mini from foot to head (as they print upside down) a larger mini, when hollowed out will keep a small amount of un-cured resin trapped inside it. You can add holes to the model to let it leak out, but this doesn't always work (resin is quite viscous and the surface tension needs a big hole preferably with a hole elsewhere to let the pressure equalise.
- I don't know if it's just the water washable resin or not, but I've found my parts will warp a little causing areas to crack open. This might be me using too thick wall settings (or too thin)
FDM requires so much care, worry about fire and moving parts rubbing, I have found SLA despite its flaws a more serene experience. Oh yeah!
- SLA is almost silent (only one axis is moving and only gently compared to FDM
I hope that extra info might help people considering it, happy to answer any questions.
I bought a Flashforge Finder, it Comes ready to plrint, but it has an unheated bed. Since I have 2 kids at home I thought it would be dangerous to get a ender. I have no regrets, just use stick glue and calibrate every print, but it have assisted calibration, so its a breeze.
It was definitely a long journey learning each printer for me. Opening the cr10 my first printer i felt lost after even putting it together there was so much to learn i can see how new users can feel overwhelmed. But when you need something the community has so many paid and free options to complete your tabletop game. Btw keep up the good work Emile
I have both a resin and a filament and I would say that for anyone looking for the best bang for buck is to go right to resin. the technology is way more reliable and has progressed quite well. I have much more failures in print on the PLA printer and the calibration is very tricky to get right.
The zip tie your showing looks to have the smooth side away from the cables it's locking down. That is a wrongly installed zip tie if it is the case.
Most zip ties will have a completely smooth side and a side with ridges that the locking tooth clamps on to for securing the tie in place. If the non-smooth side is placed facing towards cables/wires, even if has a protective higher edging, if it is overly tightened down small vibrations will cause it to begin to cut in to the sheathing of the cables/wires. With the 3D printer you'll be getting a ton of micro vibrations from the head on the unit moving and stopping all the time.
Hey man, I fixed the zip tie. That's how it looks when sorted :)
Hey Emil. I really confirm with some of your Statements. 3d printing is a Hobby for its own, even with expensive preasambled. You have to dive into and learn. But if you Do it bravely and learn using cad Software too, you come to the point when you know The behavior of its and IT will become just a Tool to materialise your ideas out from nothing.
But now my nonconfirms.
I have got ftm and sla Printers too.
Ftm printing:
I never had nearly as much cloggingproblems you told of. I stopped buying expansive Brand filaments long ago because the 10€ chinafilament Do the Job as well. I Level my bed once a month and IT takes max 2minutes, i leave my printer after starting without even atend the first layer becaus i know it will work.
Sla printing:
5meter selfsticking uv led Band (405nm) with powersupply costs about 15€. Sticked in an old pot makes te best curinglamp you can imagine.
I only pour The resin back in the bottle when i have a failprint and need to clean The foil. I printed a cap for the resinvat and leave it inside.
My exposuretime per layer is 5sek at 0,05mm layer. At 0,02 just 3seks and IT works great. When i clean my prints i dont allow The resin to cause a mess just by working inside a ikeabox.
And at Last, your allright.
PLACING SUPPORTS IS JUST A
F.C.K.ING PAIN IN THE ASS!
Hello,
What resin printer do you have and what type of resin do you use?
Got gifted a prusa mk2 a while ago but have not ever used it. Bought the photon and wash/cure station for about 300 and it has been really simple to use. The bloodfields models have been simple to slice and print and have not failed yet. I think this has given me the motivation to replace the PEI on the Prusa and give it a go too.
I see Printable Scenery! I love their stuff.
Then you probably want a filament printer. The resin printers produce awesome surface detail, but they're limited to a fairly small build volume. Basically whatever will fit on a big phone screen.
I think this was the most useful video on this subject that I have seen. Clearly the best solution for me is to find a friend who has a printer, but doesn't like to paint and get a quid pro quo going.
My little elder 3 is still kicking after a year of pretty consistent use. I did upgrade the build plate. I even get passable minis(possible for me I have low standards). I’m a really basic painter, Stuff looks good on the table and players love it. I’m not going to be winning awards but FDM is fantastic for terrain. There are so many talented artists making free stuff.
I use PLA+ almost exclusively. Try it. It glues better, sands better, and bends a bit. I also use two i3 megas, and print at least 36 hours a week. Also gloves are hard to find right now where I live. Part of the reason my resin printer are dormant.
I got a flash forge for Christmas. It’s awesome! Having a blast with it. Probably one of the best gifts I ever received. I highly recommend 3D printing for anyone who enjoys making stuff.
Regarding your build plate needing recalibration:
The head assembly is actually very good the problem is the printers often ship with loose hex screws in the ball bearing part of the build plate wich can lead to plate alignment issues.
You can solve this by disassembling the entire plate head and tightening all internal screws (all tools come with the printer)
After about 5 min of work your build plate will be rock solid and you can print for months without needing to relevel the plate.
Also with the flint Reed method and a post it note to write down the offset from your home point eliminates the need to remove and empty the vat when leveling.
Breakdowns and screen replacement are also a non issue the replacement parts are cheap and my 2 photons are running for 2 and 1,5 years respectively 18L of resin run through them and neither pixel errors nor a reduction in quality or curing time.
The smell can be almost eliminated with eco resin but good ventilation is a MUST!
LED strips can be had relatively cheaply for curing. You can buy a kit on e-bay. You stick the strip to the inside of a small bin. Incredible amount of light produced using these. 5 meters is more than enough. 410 nm is typical for most resins, check the bottle & select LEDs with that wave length. UV "A" is from about 380/390 or less so you won't give yourself cancer or go blind with 410nm, just avoid staring at LEDs, you shouldn't do that with ANY bright lights, it's just common sense. 410nm is within the spectrum of visible light so you will know it's on. Aluminium foil just helps bounce the light about a bit so not a bad plan to cover the inside of a bin with it, just don't short anything out. Again, a bit of common sense is all that is required. This is a way better plan than nail polish units. It's super bight, 360 light & dirt cheap.
I can help you with clogs on your nozzle.
Also, try Water washable resins. They are the same as the normal ones, same price, same quality... but you can clean the VAT, minis and everything just using water. No more IPA, smells and extra costs.
you should try Elegoo. its a dream. did 60+ prints in a month didn't have to recalibrate or clean once. kept the vat filled kept bumping out prints. A full mini is printed in 2 hours when laid flat and about 4 hours when standing (32mm)
Right on time. Just thought about buying a 3D printer and this one was the best sources to get an overview on how work with one is. Decided against buying it for now, since i currently have no time for another hobby.
3D printing is awesome, but I mostly paint miniatures for fun and this still seems like a pretty big hassle still.
I think in a few years once things are much more simple and easy I might get into it.
I have a shop in Etsy where I sell custom made 3d prints it's £10 per every 100 metres of filament if you want to know what that looks like it's 200g of filament which is actually quite large it's around this guy's head maybe a little less but the point is you could order like 50 miniatures for £10 or spend a bunch more money elsewhere
For me its a money saver. If i want to build a massive army the 3D printer can take the cost of that army from thousands to just hundreds of dollars.
i journeyed into 3D printer because of Titan Forge, theyre definitely a good company to back, they actually listen to their community's feedback!! lovely minis too
I agree totally. This is exactly the point I always make with regards to 3D printing. You need to enjoy the printing as a hobby in itself.
Your comment about printing terrain and buying miniatures is where I'm at right now. The Filament printer is a workhorse for 3-4 months out of the year. That being said, I am thinking about making the jump to resin just to see if I like it. Thanks for the video.
I got an Anycubic Photon for my birthday. It took me a long time to stop having failed prints. But once the prints started coming out consistently it has been very rewarding. It's fun to be able to print a variety of things, combine and paint them up, and then give them out as gifts tailor made to a specific person.
But the resin... omg... such a hassle
I haven't had any problem and I went for the high end fdm printer that prints carbon fiber nylon. But I am a person that likes learning things and find that failures give me massive knowledge.
I got the elegoo water washable resin, and I have a large metal container with a reflective inside and lid from a popcorn set that I got for super cheap from work. I'm just gonna throw some uv LEDs in there and bam. Printer comes this week and I'm excited. I've had an fdm printer I've done alot of repairs a know all the internal mechanics from taking it apart and I'm nervous but ready to face any fixes needed for the sla printer.
I have dove into 3d printing recently, I now own 2 fdm printers (ender 3 pro and ender 5 plus) and 3 resin printers, 1 anycubic photon and 2 phrozen sonic mini's. It Is a learning curve and does have some negatives. But it is so fun to be a less to print what you need as you go! I highly recommend phrozen sonic mini myself.. amazing speed and same details at mars or photon.
I'd recommend getting a rubber spatula to help you clean the resin off the reservoir. It'll make it a lot fast and cleaner.
I have had my fdm for over a year now. It was actually my pinter that got me into painting minis. Hoping to get a resin printer soon. I feel like it's something you have to get your head around.
(Bed leveling, supports, cura, settings.) But after you get the hang of it it's so good. You can make pretty much anything.
A little trick to simply remove the supports without any marks left, is warm water. Like 50-60 C°, put the miniature inside for 1 minute and after remove the supports. It's much easier.
I read a lot of the falling LCD screen of the 3d printing community after I bought the anycubic photon S and I probably one of the really lucky ones, I mean a really used a lot for at least 6 months and the only problem I have so far is a weird sound of stress metal in the Z axis, I just tight the screws and re-grease it and the problem was gone.
I started miniature painting because I have a resin printer (Prusa SL1) and got my hands on some free miniature models I printed out of curiosity. 🤣
I'm really good at 3D design, but now I also have started to do some 3D modelling to make my own custom miniatures.
... I really need more time for all these hobbies because I rarely get something finished.
55-60 degrees on the print bed plus hairspray works wonders and 195 -209 printhead temp max and a good ptfe tube will make your life a lot better. 👍
I was so hyped before jumping into 3D printing, now after few months I can just agree, it is stand alone hobby. Personally I think this technology is so ridiculous time and afford consuming, often frustrating but at the end gives satisfaction;)
"I love mine but is not my best friend" - exactly my though - in the end it is not a general public user-friendly technology yet
Getting into printing so I can print terrain and custom cosmetic parts for my figures. Example giving katselan robots custom heads to look more fitting of the grim dark 40k, or could just give them literal Baymax heads
the photon ultra now will provide higher detail printing with no disposable screen, also you can use water-washable resin which now doesn't smell that much and doesn't require ISO
I watched this when it came out and again just now as my cousin bought a 3d printer and printing terrain seems REALLY appealing but with young kids in the house and not being patient to begin with I'm glad this was an honest video. I think I can wait a few more years maybe.
For post processing my workflow is:
Remove from plate, put into alcohol, wash alcohol off with water, remove supports, cure.
Yes I am interested in 3D printing. I have been interested for over 9 years and I finely pulled the trigger and a Epax E10 and a Anycubic wash and cure station. I have family and friends who play D&D. But my real love is model trains and buildings. Thank you for sharing this video. Do you have a video on slicing? I would be very interested in your view on this part of 3D printing.
Thanks for this video. It was really informative and helped my decision making. Most people downplay a lot of the downfalls and I didn't realize the ongoing costs were so high.
I got lucky we got 3D printers at work and I have worked up from the standard FDM to a more complicated Dual nozzle FDM and now we have 2 laser resin printers and while all of them were a bit of a curve to learn I loved figured them out even though they can cause you to pull your hair out at times.
It’s a hobby - you got that right. I have bought two FDM printers, an Anet A8 and an Ender 3. Each sounded cheap at the beginning but in reality each cost me over £250 trying to put things right by replacing faulty parts or adding improvements. And then there was the time, boy was there time needed to research how best to set these things up and get them running properly. And it wouldn’t be so bad if you did all that research, got it working and it was reliable - but it isn’t. It can work great on Tuesday, go to use it on Wednesday and it is terrible. Then you spend most of Wednesday tweaking and testing to get it back to how it was on Tuesday. And then on Thursday you start all over again. And the reality I haven’t used them that much. I tried printing out some tanks (I’m into military wargaming) but the success rate was poor and I wasn’t even happy with the good ones because of the layering. So I reckon I have spent over £500, I dread to think how many hours I have invested and not printed that much. I would have been better off just buying the models that I wanted. Now I see the SLA printers and they look amazing. My heart really wants one but my brain is saying “do you want to waste another £250”. The SLA printers do look much better (apart from size limitations) and I suspect they are, but anyone that has been through the budget FDM route (especially the early ones) might carry scars like me.
Interested to know how do people join multipart miniatures you print. I've bought a UV pen light and with a fine brush I fill a portion of the joint with a small amount of resin. Then hit the liquid resin with the UV to cure it. I find it a better joint than super glue for my miniatures and it fills any gaps formed from multipart prints not matching perfectly. I usually have a second brush to wipe any poorly placed resin during the process. Also find you can use this to touch up spots where a support broke poorly and left a large divot. So far its working pretty well.
Thanks so much for the honest fun video! It really reflects how much this is an addition to the hobby and not a shortcut!
having problems removing the model of the build plate. then you will need to dial in the base exposure as its to high. dial back by 10. check the next print and then if you need to dial back again do another 10 or 5 till its dialed in. all i have to do with my photons is just catch under the corner of a print then i can just slide it under. the new photon mono range is awesome.
also with the old photon if you need to use the off time. this allows the lcd and uv array time to cool down between layers increasing the life of your lcd screen. i tend to use 6.5 seconds off for prints under 7 hours and 13 for prints over 7 hours. this will increase print time but save the lcd screen from burning out. if your using chitu. then set the bottom off time to half the time you set your base exposure. hope this helps. :)
wow . I have that same printer. never had any of the issues that you have. mine has been a dream.
I have decided to get a 3D printer at the end of the year. Now that they have models with support it's already added and they're doing test prints before they give you the models I am more apt to get into the "hobby". I just have not decided what printer to get but there's no point in deciding now if I don't get one for another six months because it'll all be different by then.
Thanks for this video! I’ve decided not to get into 3d printing since I don’t have the time or patience. I get a discount at my local game store so it’s better for me to buy models and terrain. This video helped me out to make that decision after months of deciding on it.
For someone who is currently looking into 3d printing to enhance my builds, this video was really helpful. I hadn't seen all of these considerations covered in one video before, thanks so much mate. Gave me a lot to think about before I buy. Cheers.
Many of his conclusions come from a position of ignorance or user error. The entire bed leveling issue as well as breaking screens is essentially nonexistent. Unless you get a defective machine you won't need to replace anything in the first 2-3 years of printing except for the fep sheet wich comes with replacemens if you buy a printer.
Don't forget to check out Titan Forge - Blood Fields kickstarter
www.kickstarter.com/projects/titanforgeminis/bloodfields-complete-3d-printable-wargame?ref=6wbkl7
Ehhhh? What's this I hear about a KS for some busts?
Did you hear about the Elegoo Mercury curing station? It's so cool!
I have access to a Formlabs Form 3 and a Ultimaker S3. These 3D Printers are pricey but awesome and worth every penny.
I purchased an ender 5 pro and sonic mini. I use them for printing up KS that I've backed and love it. The FDM calibrating and leveling is definitely a pain in the ass but the terrain ive printed on it have been amazing. Can't wait for my Elegoo Saturn to come in.
I have an ender 3 pro FDM printer. It's hands down the best thing I've ever bought, It just keeps giving and giving. By my calculation printing terrain is almost always WAY cheaper than buying it. Especially with smaller pieces. Larger pieces/higher surface area prints obviously require more filament and are more expensive, I think in most cases its still cheaper, even cheaper than mdf kits. You gotta remember for bought terrain the price goes up very quickly with size/quantity. I didn't have as much issue getting started as you did although I have had my fair share of clogs and failed prints, mostly due to poor filament quality and too low nozzle temperature. There are a few things that need to be upgraded like the bowden tube. those parts aren't too expensive. There is definitely a learning curve both with using the machine and the print settings, and it can have breakdowns but I think its worth it for how much you get back. I've been printing monster miniatures for frostgrave and Rangers of shadow deep, most designs I've gotten for free on thingiverse. The cost of printing minis/mobs on fdm is so low its crazy, literally a few cents each. yeh the quality is often not fantastic but I'm happy just to cheaply and quickly get figures on the board so I can play.
I know this video was 2 yr ago so it’s a different story now but it’s worth saying
I have a resin printer and after buying an any cubic wash/cure station for £100 there is next to no mess and 0 hassle.
Honestly was the best solution for me as using an ultrasonic and UV light was rubbish.
It has a nice plastic container which keeps all the stinking alcohol stored away
Plus it fits the build plate from my phrozen so that gets cleaned at the same time
It’s so dam easy and hassle free
It is DEFINITELY an entirely second hobby when you get into it - it's not a magical mini and terrain spewing machine (although it seems like it sometimes).
If you're on the fence, a good alternative is to find someone in your community close by that has a 3d printer. I live in a rather dense urban area, and before getting an FDM printer, I had stuff printed for really cheap by a guy who just lives a few miles away - I'd just bike to his house. I know there are some Print-for-fee services around, but if you find someone with a printer in a local gaming or modelling group, they'll often print a file for you now and again for free (or for a beer). It is a labor, in addition to the (minimal) materials cost.
Thank you. The first video that made slow down and think a lot more about the feasibility of personal 3D printing
Always look forward to yours and Marco's videos! I appreciate you guys making fun and informative content to watch!
CnC cutters for soft materials and you can cut out parts. That is a fun thing to make terrain parts.
Should have gotten an Ender 3!
Yes, you have to build it, but that helps you get familiar with the machine. My Ender 3 produces amazing models and has been reliable. Prints stick very well, no adhesive on build plate, rafts, etc.
Inly had one clog nozzle but that was more user error. Replaced and its back on action. Now I print no stop, very cool machine that has expanded my skillls in various aspects:)
oohh the solus printer is lovely. I have seen some amazing work printed on that!
Get the elegoo mars. I have been printing 4+ liters a month with it and I've never had to recalibrate the build plate after the first time and I've only pulled the reservoir twice. All I do now is run a custom comb through the vat if I have a failure.. Lately all I've done is just add more resin..
You ended up talking me out of taking the plunge, which is not at all a bad thing. I just don't have the time to invest in the endeavor, as cool as it seems. Thank you for the assist!
thank you for doing this detailed video on 3D printing. It really helps put the subject into a clear context for me. I have watched 3D printing improve very fast and it seems to be getting even better and potentially cheaper as time passes. I plan on holding off due to financial and time constraints, but I look forward to adding 3D printing to my hobby toolkit at some future date. Thx!
If your were thinking about getting a fdm 3d printer like a ender 3 or 5 you really shouldn't listen to what this guy says, almost all the problems he mentioned were user error like very clearly buying the wrong parts for upgrading, not reading the ideal temperature for the filament he was using, or not leveling the build plate. You should check out some channels entirety focused on 3d printing for a better "review"
Loved this, I love 3D print and I actually work on my day job with it, but there is a LOT of overestimating, and I'd even say some shade from some people, about 3D printing specially when compared to injection mold minis. Im talking about the "3D printing is here and GW better get with the program!" kind of people,that saying this kind of stuff means you both don't know nothing about 3D printing as about miniature manufacturing at all, also in the 3D "sculpting" community there is a lot of scammy files, stuff that look AWESOME on the computer screen but just aren't gonna look good on the print no matter how spot on is your settings and calibration, it's about the design not being thought out for a miniature and got over detailed and didn't manage scale and proportion variants properly, that happening cuz more often than not 3D sculptors don't sculpt traditionally and get lost in the infinite possibilities and zoom that the computer screen gives you. For me 3D printing and Sculpting is absolute great and it's a game changer, as a complement of traditional sculpting and injection mold.
La LuLi P well said !
Once you calibrate your printer properly, the prints are amazing. Dirt cheap also (filament is kinda cheap usually ~$25/kg, and that's a lot)
I want a 3D printer for printing just terrain. What's the best FDL option that won't show the obvious texture of 3D printing with fdl?
That is not really something depending on the printer you use, but on the layer height in the slicer program you use. I myself have an ender 3 and use 0.08mm layer height for high detailed (large/terrain)models and i cant see the obvious layer lines straight away, and after some sanding then even washes can be used
I stand by prusa mk3.
Prusa mini
Unless you sand every surface, every nook and kranny then all FDM printers will show printer lines and washes and dry brushing tend to accentuate the layers. Low layer height (meaning slower prints) helps and box like objects tend to look better than highly curves objects.
The thing is do you want them to look fine on a wargaming table/diorama (no problem) or are you looking to produce golden dragon winning painted scenes (major problem).
Highest quality results without going to commercial grade $1000+ printers is probably Prusa. I have an Ender 3 lightly modified and more than happy with the results at tabletop distance.
Ender 3 is still the best bang for your buck. But I agree with other comments here, the layer lines are brutal. Even with Fat Dragon Game's settings it isn't great painted.
3+ with my Prusa and never had any of the issues on FDM printers talked about above. The support is world class. I do not purchase cheap Chinese filament and never had and issue. I have had zero blobs or adhesion failures. The printer is rock solid. My EPAX X1, again, rock solid but I hate using it given all the cleaning and curing process. I have only had to check the level once. I hate that I have had to change my LCD and I hate changing the nFEP. I cannot complain about the quality of the prints.
IMHO, when it comes to terrain, it is cheaper to print than it is to buy. When it comes to miniatures, it is probably as expensive when printing resin especially if you are purchasing professionally developed miniatures STLs. I like 3D printing as my hobby. I have created a lot of functional prints.
Which Prusa do you have?
@@pjpaella I have 2 Prusa MK3S printers. One has been upgraded starting with a Prusa 2.5 and the other started as a MK3 and then got the MK3 to MK3S upgrade kit. I have PEI smooth plate for PLA and textured plate for everything else. I have almost 4K print hours on the first printer and over 3K print hours on the second.
I also bought an i3 Mega FDM printer first up, very happy so far with it. I'm thinking of getting a resin and this video was great to examine some pros and cons. Thanks Emil!
Great stuff as always. Good to hear about the positives and negatives. Given the heaps of unpainted figs I have right now I have No doubt that the printers will be collecting dust at times after a while. Will get printers after the Summer I think. Also can't wait for your Kickstarter! Really hiping for Good brushes at somehwat decent prices! Keep up the good work!
Frederik Christiansen one thing that has definitely grown since I got my printers is the unpainted backlog. Minis AND. Terrain.
For the clog up problems change your nozzle to a known quality brand and make sure you store your filements in bags. Also you can make a small spunge cleaning arm which there are many examples online.
Cheap noozles don't have smooth inner walls and don't distribute heat evenly so you are more likely to get things pileing up inside and clogging.
I have the Prusa SLA1 ( and a couple fdm printers not prusa). Hands down the Prusa is best printer I have. Only issue I have had was when I moved it, I didn't level the printer and had a failed print.
I would love to get into 3D printing but don’t currently have the space, looking to move soon to somewhere with a dedicated ventilated hobby area so maybe after that.
My interest isn’t really in printing whole bits of terrain or even models, but customisation parts for existing miniatures. I do a lot of converting and would design my own bits to print, it’s likely that I’d never print anything larger than a full 28-32mm miniature.
I guess this means that any printer I own would be left unused for longer periods while a design is refined etc, but with proper cleaning that shouldn’t be an issue.
the only video I will disagree with, and here is why:
- The main issue with FDMs are things you know and know how to fix if you buy not a ready product but kit - bought my kit from china 6 years ago and the knowledge I got from building the printer got me prepared for the FDM issues
-DLP supports - manually adding supports is a skill, but once obtained - adding supports take 30 sec per model, you spend less resin on manual supports than those automatically generated and you can add them in such a way that they are either not that visible and/or easier to remove. Oh, and also I have one of the first Photons from the original batch and still no screen issues, the key is to use only black resin (cured fastest) and avoid overcooking the model (6s print time for layer is more than enough)
I love 3d printing, and I feel its a hobby kinda like revealing your own photos back when photos needed a blackroom