I'm SO glad you used Waterlox on this project. I've seen you use Minwax Oil-Based Poly in the past... which is an awesome product. But... I refinished my white oak hardwood floors using Waterlox after watching your videos. And ever since then I have become slightly obsessed with Waterlox. It is not only a deep and beautiful finish... but it is touch as nails. I somehow had it in my mind that Waterlox was just a "beauty product" kind of like Danish Oil... but in fact, it is a rugged and tough product that is tough enough for floors! Thanks for another awesome tip!
Good tip, Jon! I'll have to try that out. UA-cam served me up the one you did almost 5 years ago. I had already seen the video a while back, but I watched it again. You did pretty much the same thing, but used a different finish on that one! You're quite consistent.
Thanks Jon. I remember a few years back you mentioned these products but I didn't have any luck getting my hands on them. I have now finally found a supplier in Australia (just south of Sydney). It's pretty expensive but it looks like a tin should last a while so it's probably worth the price.
Sounds good, I bet the can will last you at least 10 years. I use it on all my clear finishes and this is only the second can I’ve bought. Just always make sure the finish is cured.
I just followed your tip on a mesquite table top I made and it turned out great.... too bad I didn't know this when I replaced all the doors in my house with raw wood and finished them with minwax poly... Thanks for this tip... how I will finish all wood projects from now on.
Love your videos Jon! And yes love the idea of more finish staining type videos. I'm a newbie to woodworking and not sure how to select woods and finishes that contrast well with each other and I also love how people use curly maple to get a high contrast look. Thanks again for your videos!
Awesome tips Jon I just finished a live edge walnut chandelier for my parents for a Christmas gift, it turned out amazing but I was wondering if there was a way to remove the last small little spots after the final finish and you answered that question with this video. Thanks so much for all the amazing tips!
Hey Jon! alway awesome video!! I love these quick tips, even though I might not use them soon. when I do I come to your channel to check for these amazing tips!!! Thank you for making these!
Good stuff as always! Wish I knew this before a massive double walk-in closet organizer project I hand rubbed and then waxed a year ago... So what type of Waterlox are we looking at? My guess would be original. Do you ever use the tinted Waterlox?
I was taught, in gunsmithing school at the Colorado School of Trades, to never use steel wool on wood for a finish product, and to stay away from it , if possible, entirely. Tiny shards of steel become inbedded in the finish and will rust over time, leaving tiny rust specks. We used different grades of 'Scotchbrite' style pads for our finishing and never had any metallic residue.
Hello Jon, nice job. I'm new to the products you've used. Am I correct that over stained wood you used coats of the Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish, then the Mohak Paste Wool Lube? I see there is a liquid wool lube available on Amazon, but no paste. Is that the same stuff?
Hi Jon, Great useful tips. I have some night stands made from maple, dark stained and a Lacquer finish. The tops have very fine scratches and swirl from just sliding things like books. Would the wool lube be a good product to take care of that? Or would please suggest another method for me?
I bought Liberon wax remover and used the recommend steel wool 0000 to remove polish from a very nice walnut dining table. The result was many micro scratches in the finish. Maybe I didn’t soak the wool completely. Will this technique help me get rid of these micro scratches? The table is Tommy Bahama brand and I assume has sufficient varnish and PU from the factory. Thanks J
Thank you for the tip, Mr. Peters. I’m an amateur woodworker. I built my wife a new set of end tables last year for the living room. Everyone that visits us comments on how nice they are, but they don’t have that silky-smooth feel when you rub your hand across them. I spent about a week just applying the polyurethane. I applied thin coats and lightly sanded between each application - maybe 5 coats total - but still not as smooth as I’d hoped. Do you think it would be possible for me to lightly sand them and apply a fresh coat or two of poly, then finish with the wool butter rub? Thanks for all of your hard work and for sharing your knowledge!
Thank You Jon.... This was a great tip! Questions: 1) Should the Water Lube be reapplied over time ?? 2) is this technique used primarily for food-grade surfaces? In the video you said you apply this product to ALL of your projects., hence why i asked about food-grade vs surfaces like dressers, cabinets,etc.
Hey jon love the videos. I have a question about some tool handles? I do concrete work, needed something water proof that will last in all weather conditions and exposure to water/concrete. I used boiled linseed oil. Anything else i can add over it to give it a nicer sealer or look without ruining grip and breathability of wood
Water-based finishes have 2 quirks you should be aware of. 1: It won't give your wood grain the level of chatoyance that an oil-based finish does. 2: Water based polyurethane doesn't saturate a cloth applicator the same way oil based ones do. (Solutions) 1: Do an initial non-water-based finish, then put on the water based finish. You can use shellac as your initial coat if drying time is important to you. 2: Foam applicators work really well with water-based finishes.
So are you doing that right over the polyurethane coat? I've applied two coats to my table with a satin finish, but it's not quite as smooth as I want. That almost seems like that would give me the finished look I want.
Great vid and good tip. I’ve just finished my desk table with a product called Rubio mono coat oil, it’s a clear pure coat I have used over the top of a wood dye I used on the oak top initially. Will it be safe to now use the wool lube on top of the Rubio oil finish to try and bring down some of the grain raise slightly and smoothen the finish? Any advice appreciated 🙏
Great tip. Have you ever had Waterlox separate on you during the first few coats? I split my can of Waterlox into a few mason jars after thoroughly mixing the can and a few months later, the finish tries to separate during application, kind of like when oil hits water
anytime I have ever used the stuff, with the pressure I see you applying that lube it takes off the finish leaving the surface uneven, having to sand the project down and start over
TheChevyvega He did mention he used Waterlox for the finish and let it cure for 2 days. Curing is key because the solvents in the stain haven’t fully dissipated and so it will wipe off when they react with the wool lube.
That looks great, Jon! How would Wool Lube and steel wool work for rubbing out a water based poly finish (like General Finishes High Performance or Enduro Var)?
@@JonPetersArtHome Okay, I tried it... and it worked. SO well. It's worlds better. My somewhat streaky wipe-on poly that was too shiny in places looks exactly how I hoped. Thank you so much!
One of the negative things I've seen about Waterlox, is that some users keep getting bubbles in their finish. I'm about to build some wood counter tops and a dining table, and I want to use good products to finish them. Besides application methods, what would cause the bubbles to appear? Humidity? I plan to finish my projects in an HVAC controlled environment so that shouldn't be an issue. Just wondering. Thanks for the upload.
I’ve never had that problem with WaterLox , you should test the finish out on a few samples first just to know how to work with it. I find this one of the easiest finishes to use aside from the Dry time
I'm a little confused :) I didn't think you needed to use anything on top of Waterlox? I was going to use Waterlox on my soon to be black walnut counter, and just recently I'm ordering a walnut door for my laundry room as a sliding barn door and thought I would use Waterlox on that too.
Ruth Taylor you don't have to use something over the Waterlox if you don't want to. He was just showing a technique on getting a more matte look that looks "hand rubbed."
You can purchase Wool Lube on Amazon with this link to Mohawk Consumer Products (Behlen) www.amazon.com/Behlen-B730-1365-Wool-LubeTM-Pint/dp/B003AYO2L6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516289206&sr=8-1&keywords=wool+lube. Thank you for your interest in our products HBehlen.
Love your shop! It looks like an evolution of life instead of a set. What ordinary folk can achieve. Good job!
I'm SO glad you used Waterlox on this project. I've seen you use Minwax Oil-Based Poly in the past... which is an awesome product. But... I refinished my white oak hardwood floors using Waterlox after watching your videos. And ever since then I have become slightly obsessed with Waterlox. It is not only a deep and beautiful finish... but it is touch as nails. I somehow had it in my mind that Waterlox was just a "beauty product" kind of like Danish Oil... but in fact, it is a rugged and tough product that is tough enough for floors! Thanks for another awesome tip!
Thanks Michael...Waterlox is a great product
Thanks Jon! Just used this procedure on poly tung min spirits mix. Feels like butter!
Quick tips are great.
Good tip, Jon! I'll have to try that out. UA-cam served me up the one you did almost 5 years ago. I had already seen the video a while back, but I watched it again. You did pretty much the same thing, but used a different finish on that one! You're quite consistent.
Please never stop this, thank you!
Thanks Jon. I remember a few years back you mentioned these products but I didn't have any luck getting my hands on them. I have now finally found a supplier in Australia (just south of Sydney). It's pretty expensive but it looks like a tin should last a while so it's probably worth the price.
Sounds good, I bet the can will last you at least 10 years. I use it on all my clear finishes and this is only the second can I’ve bought. Just always make sure the finish is cured.
Good tip. I've been using paste wax for that hand rubbed finish, without thought of some day refinishing. Now I have to rethink that whole idea!
Thanks for the tip Jon.
I would look forward to regular tip videos.
Always like any quick on finishes.. There is so many options👍.
Love this. Untypable gratitude! Thanks
As always, a great video. Your tips are always simple and soooo effective!
I just followed your tip on a mesquite table top I made and it turned out great.... too bad I didn't know this when I replaced all the doors in my house with raw wood and finished them with minwax poly... Thanks for this tip... how I will finish all wood projects from now on.
Thanks for the tip, Jon. Timely, I have a couple projects in the works that I will use this with. ATB, Bill
Thanks for the tip, Jon.
Great video thanks
Love your videos Jon! And yes love the idea of more finish staining type videos. I'm a newbie to woodworking and not sure how to select woods and finishes that contrast well with each other and I also love how people use curly maple to get a high contrast look. Thanks again for your videos!
Awesome Tip Jon! Thank you Sir!!! Have a blessed New Year!
Awesome tips Jon I just finished a live edge walnut chandelier for my parents for a Christmas gift, it turned out amazing but I was wondering if there was a way to remove the last small little spots after the final finish and you answered that question with this video. Thanks so much for all the amazing tips!
Terrific tip Jon! Question: Can that method be used on any wood finish? Or on only certain types of finish? Thanks & Happy New Year, Steve
Hey Jon! alway awesome video!! I love these quick tips, even though I might not use them soon. when I do I come to your channel to check for these amazing tips!!! Thank you for making these!
Good stuff as always! Wish I knew this before a massive double walk-in closet organizer project I hand rubbed and then waxed a year ago...
So what type of Waterlox are we looking at? My guess would be original. Do you ever use the tinted Waterlox?
Your video was very helpful. Can it be repeated to add more layers?
Really cool, thanks for the tip Jon! 👍👊
Great vid. I love waterlox, and use it often. I've never heard of the wood lube, but will have to give it a try.
Wow.. I saw this year's ago and forgot. Thanks
awesome clue, thanks master
I was taught, in gunsmithing school at the Colorado School of Trades, to never use steel wool on wood for a finish product, and to stay away from it , if possible, entirely. Tiny shards of steel become inbedded in the finish and will rust over time, leaving tiny rust specks. We used different grades of 'Scotchbrite' style pads for our finishing and never had any metallic residue.
Interesting. A lot of pro wood shops use 00-0000 for finish buffing including a wax over the finish to smooth out the finish.
Another great tip! Thank you and keep up the amazing work you do!
Thanks for the tip!!
BEAUTIFUL !
Hello Jon, nice job. I'm new to the products you've used. Am I correct that over stained wood you used coats of the Waterlox Original Sealer/Finish, then the Mohak Paste Wool Lube? I see there is a liquid wool lube available on Amazon, but no paste. Is that the same stuff?
Great!
Hi Jon, Great useful tips. I have some night stands made from maple, dark stained and a Lacquer finish. The tops have very fine scratches and swirl from just sliding things like books. Would the wool lube be a good product to take care of that? Or would please suggest another method for me?
I bought Liberon wax remover and used the recommend steel wool 0000 to remove polish from a very nice walnut dining table. The result was many micro scratches in the finish. Maybe I didn’t soak the wool completely. Will this technique help me get rid of these micro scratches? The table is Tommy Bahama brand and I assume has sufficient varnish and PU from the factory. Thanks J
Thanks Jon - can this be applied over any finish? Anything you wouldn’t apply it over?
Can I use wood lube with any sealer ? Or lacquer vynil sealer ?
Thank you for the tip, Mr. Peters. I’m an amateur woodworker. I built my wife a new set of end tables last year for the living room. Everyone that visits us comments on how nice they are, but they don’t have that silky-smooth feel when you rub your hand across them. I spent about a week just applying the polyurethane. I applied thin coats and lightly sanded between each application - maybe 5 coats total - but still not as smooth as I’d hoped. Do you think it would be possible for me to lightly sand them and apply a fresh coat or two of poly, then finish with the wool butter rub? Thanks for all of your hard work and for sharing your knowledge!
Can you use it over varnish as well? Thank you.
is this the only finish or is it on top of something else?
Thank You Jon.... This was a great tip! Questions: 1) Should the Water Lube be reapplied over time ?? 2) is this technique used primarily for food-grade surfaces? In the video you said you apply this product to ALL of your projects., hence why i asked about food-grade vs surfaces like dressers, cabinets,etc.
Hey jon love the videos. I have a question about some tool handles?
I do concrete work, needed something water proof that will last in all weather conditions and exposure to water/concrete. I used boiled linseed oil. Anything else i can add over it to give it a nicer sealer or look without ruining grip and breathability of wood
Thanks, how about bees wax … just a thought. I use it on steel and it works great.
@@JonPetersArtHome thanks. So as far concrete exposure and washing tools with water, it should be fine?
Great video, can this be done to waterborne polyurethane?
Water-based finishes have 2 quirks you should be aware of.
1: It won't give your wood grain the level of chatoyance that an oil-based finish does.
2: Water based polyurethane doesn't saturate a cloth applicator the same way oil based ones do.
(Solutions)
1: Do an initial non-water-based finish, then put on the water based finish. You can use shellac as your initial coat if drying time is important to you.
2: Foam applicators work really well with water-based finishes.
Is there a Link to the Mohawk wool lube? . I can’t seem to find that stuff anywhere. Appreciate any help
So are you doing that right over the polyurethane coat? I've applied two coats to my table with a satin finish, but it's not quite as smooth as I want. That almost seems like that would give me the finished look I want.
Is this after a varnish?
No close up of the finish after it’s been hand rubbed?
Great vid and good tip. I’ve just finished my desk table with a product called Rubio mono coat oil, it’s a clear pure coat I have used over the top of a wood dye I used on the oak top initially. Will it be safe to now use the wool lube on top of the Rubio oil finish to try and bring down some of the grain raise slightly and smoothen the finish? Any advice appreciated 🙏
I wouldn’t, I’ve never used on rubio ... But looks like a penetrating oil rather than a shell type finish.
Great tip. Have you ever had Waterlox separate on you during the first few coats? I split my can of Waterlox into a few mason jars after thoroughly mixing the can and a few months later, the finish tries to separate during application, kind of like when oil hits water
What is "water locked", please?
anytime I have ever used the stuff, with the pressure I see you applying that lube it takes off the finish leaving the surface uneven, having to sand the project down and start over
TheChevyvega He did mention he used Waterlox for the finish and let it cure for 2 days. Curing is key because the solvents in the stain haven’t fully dissipated and so it will wipe off when they react with the wool lube.
And I let the project stand until all that smell has vanished
I have this stuff called tried and true it's a 2 part varnish and beeswax and you steel wool for it and looks great too..good stuff j on happy 2018
Will this work on any finish?
Thanks for the tip.
In my country there's no "wool lube". Is there a substitute you can recommend? (what is wool lube made of?)
Yes, the United States. Ohhhhhh, you meant substitute product.........never mind.
Big Mike is talking Jesus, that took me an embarrassing long time to get.
Well, I used to live in NYC. Luckily I moved overseas right on time just after the election. ;)
That looks great, Jon! How would Wool Lube and steel wool work for rubbing out a water based poly finish (like General Finishes High Performance or Enduro Var)?
Interesting!
Where can you purchase wool lube at a lumber yard? Thanks
Be nice to have a link to the product you recommend.
Google is your friend :) Wool-Lube www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=243
Do you have any tips for doing this that reduces the gloss slightly? My "satin" water- based poly doesn't look so satiny.
Yes, the Wool lube should work for that ... but test it.
@@JonPetersArtHome Thanks! I will! Also, prize for fastest ever reply to a comment.
@@JonPetersArtHome Okay, I tried it... and it worked. SO well. It's worlds better. My somewhat streaky wipe-on poly that was too shiny in places looks exactly how I hoped. Thank you so much!
Make more lovem
One of the negative things I've seen about Waterlox, is that some users keep getting bubbles in their finish. I'm about to build some wood counter tops and a dining table, and I want to use good products to finish them. Besides application methods, what would cause the bubbles to appear? Humidity? I plan to finish my projects in an HVAC controlled environment so that shouldn't be an issue. Just wondering. Thanks for the upload.
I’ve never had that problem with WaterLox , you should test the finish out on a few samples first just to know how to work with it. I find this one of the easiest finishes to use aside from the Dry time
Did you use a gloss top coat or satin?
Semi gloss
I'm a little confused :) I didn't think you needed to use anything on top of Waterlox? I was going to use Waterlox on my soon to be black walnut counter, and just recently I'm ordering a walnut door for my laundry room as a sliding barn door and thought I would use Waterlox on that too.
Ruth Taylor you don't have to use something over the Waterlox if you don't want to. He was just showing a technique on getting a more matte look that looks "hand rubbed."
You can purchase Wool Lube on Amazon with this link to Mohawk Consumer Products (Behlen) www.amazon.com/Behlen-B730-1365-Wool-LubeTM-Pint/dp/B003AYO2L6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1516289206&sr=8-1&keywords=wool+lube. Thank you for your interest in our products HBehlen.
Links to everything but the finish…….???
Oh, I see another comment. Never mind😊
There's just nothing Nathan Lane can't do.
That’s a first.... usually I get Gordon Ramsay :)
@@JonPetersArtHome Neither comparison is unfavorable! Hahaha. Great video, thanks for this.