Btw that was not the moment you would set the height on the piston you would want the bleed cup still installed or the piston won’t move one bit. Also taking the high speed adjuster out after degassing is so much easier to get the oil out instead of using fill hole. Sucks they make us buy Tons of special tools to remove the nitro can and adjuster without damaging them. Good job on diy.
Nice straightforward real world video and no music! Yay! The bleeder cup is slick, I need to get one of those. True 3rd world oriented cheapskates can simply use their high pressure air fork pump to refill the shock reservoir with air, which is 78% nitrogen. I may or may not have done this 😂 Using ambient air from a small high pressure pump is not an ideal thing to do, but truly not the end of the world either, especially if one lives in a dry climate. The biggest reason to use pure nitrogen is it is perfectly dry.
FYI for the PDS shock owners. The plastic spring preload collar will not; repeat WILL NOT fit over the clevis once its back together. I ended up having to cut mine and stretch it over. Once clamped in place its fine but its easy to miss that detail. Great video tho. I've added it to my other suspension rebuild vids! 🤘
Few weeks ago i almost did this same. I took apart everything but i couldnt get the needle fast enough so i just put it back together and send it to a shop. Maybe i will do it next time and order all parts before my shock blows up and i must service it. Great video!
Super helpful video! I was able to do my first shock service and install the bladder. One question: when you do the next service, are you removing the bladder, cleaning everything, and reinstalling? Or is it good enough to just drain all the oil and replace? My gut says take everything apart and clean it but that it might be fine to leave together if I'm just refreshing the oil?
Thanks for sharing man. I just got the bleeder cup and SDI bladder kit. I have the vac pump and all that but think I'm just going to use the bleeder cup.
Hey thanks for the video. I’m getting setup to do an oil change on my pds shock with piston. Don’t plan on changing to the bladder. Can you clarify something for me. At the end of the video when you said you would set the piston height at this point, you already had the plug installed where the bleed cup was. If you have the plug inserted would you even be able to move the piston(ie. there’s no where for the oil to go)? Should you move the piston with the plug removed and then remove the cup and install the plug? Sorry I’m new to this.
hi thanks for the video! i didn't understand if when you fill the oil the shaft should be full extended so the piston into the oil reservoir will be to the higest position near the compression regulation or to the lower position? i can't understand how much oil you have to fill to be able to leave enough space for the nitrogen....thanks for the help!
I just did the race tech one. The cylinder is on there* extremely tight. You need to heat it with propane or similar gas and use a quality strap wrench if you do not have the special tool to hold it in place (depends on shock brand). It will not budge if it is not hot enough and your entire back is into it.
@@grutzmac Right on the threads. Got it hot until it started to simmer off some smoke. It's a notoriously dreaded job. I got it quite hot and didn't melt the O-Ring. Basically until the sticker started to deform.
nice! So in the longer run was the difference bladder/piston worth it? I’m reluctant re the bladder because it means more maintenance. Especially if the difference is not that noticeable.
it’s a small difference, I like it cause of the small performance change but also for the ease of maintenance with the schrader valve there. I’d still do it again, but only when you’re ready to do a regular service.
@@TechEnduro thanks. I like regular service, but I’ve never touched a shock because I don’t have the tools. I want to do the 6500 cartridge for the forks, but think I’ll leave the shock stock…
I got it from BFDMOTO.COM they are based in Canada but most suspension tuners that deal with WP can order it. Also Ktech and and others make them, I like the wp one because it has a Schrader valve.
@@TechEnduro that was great! did not know WP shocks are kinda self serviceable. I am mainly not a moto guy fwiw, but in MTB applications we usually do not bother with pure Nitrogen anymore for about 10 years now and just use atmospheric air with no downsides. also pressurizing usually happens through regular tire core valves (on mtb shocks usual IFP/bladder pressure is ~160-200 psi) which clearly eases the damper service. when not using a vacuum pump to bleed, to help with countering the chance of cavitation, I think it is a good thing to try to dissolve as much gas as possible from the oil before filling the damper by decrompessing the oil in a syringe. heating up the oil in a pot might also work for that matter.
Bigger question is why?… oil looks fine, nothing appears to be leaking…aside from the addition of the bladder kit…seems wasteful considering 90%+ of KTMs sold will never be raced let alone by a accomplished racer that using will use A Kit parts…
Mainly because I enjoy learning about maintenance. I also just do it at a normal interval to avoid a surprise that might ruin my ride. Necessary probably not, but I’d personally rather find clean fluid and no issues when I pull it apart vs a mess👍
50 hours you should change the oil as you will start to wear the cylinder out. Very important for longevity of shock consistency. Although you don't need to change seals needlessly.
My suggestion would of been if you’re going thru all the trouble to service the shock, to also remove the lower shock swing arm linkage and clean and grease those bearings/bushings.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Btw that was not the moment you would set the height on the piston you would want the bleed cup still installed or the piston won’t move one bit. Also taking the high speed adjuster out after degassing is so much easier to get the oil out instead of using fill hole. Sucks they make us buy Tons of special tools to remove the nitro can and adjuster without damaging them. Good job on diy.
Nice straightforward real world video and no music! Yay!
The bleeder cup is slick, I need to get one of those. True 3rd world oriented cheapskates can simply use their high pressure air fork pump to refill the shock reservoir with air, which is 78% nitrogen. I may or may not have done this 😂
Using ambient air from a small high pressure pump is not an ideal thing to do, but truly not the end of the world either, especially if one lives in a dry climate. The biggest reason to use pure nitrogen is it is perfectly dry.
Since I have both I’m going to try just air and see if I notice the difference I’ll bet I won’t!
Bladder does smooth out the sharp stuff for sure! Great video.
Lovely video! Now let's have home revalving video haha
I might have to nerd out researching for a lot longer for that to happen!🤣
FYI for the PDS shock owners. The plastic spring preload collar will not; repeat WILL NOT fit over the clevis once its back together. I ended up having to cut mine and stretch it over. Once clamped in place its fine but its easy to miss that detail.
Great video tho. I've added it to my other suspension rebuild vids! 🤘
Fantastic video! You've made it clear at each step. Makes me want to invest in the extra tools to be able to service the shock myself.
Few weeks ago i almost did this same. I took apart everything but i couldnt get the needle fast enough so i just put it back together and send it to a shop. Maybe i will do it next time and order all parts before my shock blows up and i must service it. Great video!
Interesting, like you couldn’t get the needle out quickly?
@@TechEnduro No, i needed that nitrogen needle and it would have taken weeks to get it here in finland.
@ 9:35, you say "torque to 29NM or 40Ft-Lbs". I think it's supposed to be 29Ft-Lbs or 40NM. Great video. Thank you!
Great video! Thanks!
Also, I'd be surprised if you don't notice the difference of the bladder upgrade.
Very Good Video.
Great video. Definitely a lot going on in there
Thank you! Great video!
Super helpful video! I was able to do my first shock service and install the bladder. One question: when you do the next service, are you removing the bladder, cleaning everything, and reinstalling? Or is it good enough to just drain all the oil and replace? My gut says take everything apart and clean it but that it might be fine to leave together if I'm just refreshing the oil?
Appreciate this video very much.
Thanks for sharing man. I just got the bleeder cup and SDI bladder kit. I have the vac pump and all that but think I'm just going to use the bleeder cup.
Nice! Good luck, nice having the tools👍
Hey, great video you definitely made it look easy,.. Cheers!
A very useful vid. Thanks.
Hey thanks for the video. I’m getting setup to do an oil change on my pds shock with piston. Don’t plan on changing to the bladder. Can you clarify something for me. At the end of the video when you said you would set the piston height at this point, you already had the plug installed where the bleed cup was. If you have the plug inserted would you even be able to move the piston(ie. there’s no where for the oil to go)? Should you move the piston with the plug removed and then remove the cup and install the plug? Sorry I’m new to this.
hi thanks for the video! i didn't understand if when you fill the oil the shaft should be full extended so the piston into the oil reservoir will be to the higest position near the compression regulation or to the lower position? i can't understand how much oil you have to fill to be able to leave enough space for the nitrogen....thanks for the help!
really good video, if you haven't the cup how you can remove all the air? thanks
You could do it without. Making sure it’s just overflowing and letting air out. Might not get 100% of em but could work if you’re patient.
@@TechEnduro ok thank for the answer, so I must overflow the screw hole with oil and pump the piston up and down multiple times right?
Yeah, without sucking air in…that the tricky part without the cup. It’s a worth while buy
is there a simple way to change out bump stop rubber
How difficult was removing the piston cylinder for the bladder install? Pro tips?
I just did the race tech one. The cylinder is on there* extremely tight. You need to heat it with propane or similar gas and use a quality strap wrench if you do not have the special tool to hold it in place (depends on shock brand). It will not budge if it is not hot enough and your entire back is into it.
@@MechShark thanks. Did you put heat directly on the treads? For how long? I don’t want to cook the oring in there.
You might cook it!
@@grutzmac Right on the threads. Got it hot until it started to simmer off some smoke. It's a notoriously dreaded job. I got it quite hot and didn't melt the O-Ring. Basically until the sticker started to deform.
@@TechEnduro did you not use heat to get it off? Have you serviced the shock since installing the bladder?
Hello! What is the part number for bleeder kit WP?
Link is in the description
WP634-8086
nice! So in the longer run was the difference bladder/piston worth it? I’m reluctant re the bladder because it means more maintenance. Especially if the difference is not that noticeable.
it’s a small difference, I like it cause of the small performance change but also for the ease of maintenance with the schrader valve there. I’d still do it again, but only when you’re ready to do a regular service.
@@TechEnduro thanks. I like regular service, but I’ve never touched a shock because I don’t have the tools. I want to do the 6500 cartridge for the forks, but think I’ll leave the shock stock…
Great video! Where did you get the wp bladder from?
I got it from BFDMOTO.COM they are based in Canada but most suspension tuners that deal with WP can order it. Also Ktech and and others make them, I like the wp one because it has a Schrader valve.
@@TechEnduro thanks!
Plenty do not bother with nitrogen with bladder kits as there is more air volume.
I’m going to test it with just air and see if I notice a difference, my guess is I won’t.
@@TechEnduro that was great! did not know WP shocks are kinda self serviceable.
I am mainly not a moto guy fwiw, but in MTB applications we usually do not bother with pure Nitrogen anymore for about 10 years now and just use atmospheric air with no downsides. also pressurizing usually happens through regular tire core valves (on mtb shocks usual IFP/bladder pressure is ~160-200 psi) which clearly eases the damper service.
when not using a vacuum pump to bleed, to help with countering the chance of cavitation, I think it is a good thing to try to dissolve as much gas as possible from the oil before filling the damper by decrompessing the oil in a syringe. heating up the oil in a pot might also work for that matter.
Ok job . I know you left out a few things /safety wise.we all have to start somewhere.
Yup. First time👍
@@TechEnduro I started 1986
Great video! Take your nice coat off before though :)
🤣 unfortunately last year I ruined this nice jacket during a mini spray foam explosion!
Whats part number of the blader kit?
WP Pro Bladder Kit Link 2023+ Part # ZF10011
You should be able to order it from your dealer too
Bigger question is why?… oil looks fine, nothing appears to be leaking…aside from the addition of the bladder kit…seems wasteful considering 90%+ of KTMs sold will never be raced let alone by a accomplished racer that using will use A Kit parts…
Mainly because I enjoy learning about maintenance. I also just do it at a normal interval to avoid a surprise that might ruin my ride. Necessary probably not, but I’d personally rather find clean fluid and no issues when I pull it apart vs a mess👍
same here I race 2 series and I have learned that if the suspension is serviced regularly my bike stays consistent@@TechEnduro
50 hours you should change the oil as you will start to wear the cylinder out. Very important for longevity of shock consistency. Although you don't need to change seals needlessly.
My suggestion would of been if you’re going thru all the trouble to service the shock, to also remove the lower shock swing arm linkage and clean and grease those bearings/bushings.
@@GNX157indeed. I did that, good call.
Tytytytytyty