Thank you for this video. Believe it or not I did a search for scx24 axel bind issue just yesterday. So surprised to see this today. Excellent troubleshooting info. ❤
wow Ive had that happen to me before and did not know what it was ... and I did loosen the screws a bit , but your discovery is a totally different ball game Thanks for this Ken , Be Well
awesome ken i stopped driving my scx,s after upgrading to brass portal's and stuck to my fms,s but thanks to that tip about grinding a bit off the axles they r back in action smooth as silk cheers what a great little tip for perfection thanks again ken
Great info Ken! Gotta wonder how many axles have been tossed due to that binding issue. That takes experience and patients to find something like that.
Great info...and, technically (albeit, in different ways), this applies to all vehicle types, and all scales. I recently ran into a binding issue on a 1:28 car (Reflex Racing RX28SE), which is a RWD chassis...and, as you mentioned, in 'searching' for what's causing a problem, take things one step at a time.
100% what issue did you have on your RX28?! We have 3 of them and love em (minus some durability issues, but that wouldnt matter if we wrecked less lol)
@@TheShopMiniRC I should mention that I'm running the DAA V1 front (not the KISS front)...these problems might have been corrected in the V2 kits (honestly, I don't know). Also, binding wasn't just in the front. Starting with the front binding, the suspension arms weren't freely moving moving on the pins...tolerance was initially just a bit too tight. The same could be said of the ball ends going into the arms. Lastly, the same was true for the balls going into the rod ends on the steering links. All three problem types were 'corrected' by "opening up" the suspension arms (where the pins go through), and 'widening' where the balls go in. The second area is binding were the side links...mostly for the same reason (and fixed the same way), but also due to a different problem. On one of the side links, on the side, where the smallest screws go in to 'tighten' the ends onto the balls, the hole for the screw was too small...not just 'slightly' too small, but 'considerably' too small. This led that links to crack right through along the top side, which, in turn, bent the "rod end" end downward, 'warping' the stance of the chassis. Thankfully, with any problems experiences due to manufacturing/packaging errors, Christian has been fantastic. When I initially received the kit, it was missing the front-upper suspension shims. I contacted Reflex Racing about this, and Christian shipped them to me immediately, even including a couple of extras (not to mention them being if two different thickness). In the matter of the side link problem, he did the same thing, shipping those to me asap. I have to say, my experience with Reflex has, so far, been extremely good. Binding issues can happen with any kit, of any scale, to which I expect to have to resolve those problems. But, when it comes to problems related to manufacturing and/or packaging, to see a company like Reflex Racing standing behind their product, that shows an "above and beyondx approach, which is greatly appreciated.
I feel like my TRX4M could use a good going over as well. You cut the wheel and she just slows right down....even before I started f'ing with aftermarket parts. Only thing I haven't touched really are the axles.
@@ninthislandrc that all makes sense. I had to do a lot of link end “pinching” to loosen up all the link end joints. Kinda to be expected though honestly with just about any plastic link ends for any rc it seems. I’m glad Christian got you taken care of. And I agree. Customer service is huge in this market.
That last bonus tip is KEY. I was having such a helluva time, wheels falling off because the nuts were too loose, everything seizing up because the nuts were too tight
Something to keep in mind also is when you put it all the way together and put it on the truck you put your wheel pin and your hips and your tire on there when you tighten that it pulls that axle out just a little bit out of the housing so sometimes that can be just a little bit of slop in there or feel just a little too long
I've had two aftermarket, high quality axle shaft sets so far, and both of them have had this problem. Really annoying as tolerances are the main thing I am willing to pay extra for.
Same here. It was obvious that they were too long and pushing to the outside but i hesitated to file some material off - messed around and mailed them because i first could not believe and thought i had done something wrong. Injora +4 Aluminium Axles, ecactly what they were made for.
I have a question what tools do you recommend? I have my larger scale tools but don like fiddling with the alen keys lol plus I already stripped about 4 out of the 6 I had 😢
So on my "t brand" mini, i replaced the knuckes and c-hubs with brass ones. Everything else is stock. its binding when you put the screws in. When not installed and put together, it doesn't bind. Is this a fix for that issue also?
Thank you for this video. Believe it or not I did a search for scx24 axel bind issue just yesterday. So surprised to see this today. Excellent troubleshooting info. ❤
Glad I could help! Awesome timing! Be sure to share with anyone else who might have the same issue!
wow Ive had that happen to me before and did not know what it was ... and I did loosen the screws a bit , but your discovery is a totally different ball game Thanks for this Ken , Be Well
I figured many have experienced this and just didn’t know why yet. ;)
awesome ken i stopped driving my scx,s after upgrading to brass portal's and stuck to my fms,s but thanks to that tip about grinding a bit off the axles they r back in action smooth as silk cheers what a great little tip for perfection thanks again ken
Glad to help
What is your loc-tite container? Looks neat!
its just a big ass bottle of loctite lol
Great info Ken! Gotta wonder how many axles have been tossed due to that binding issue. That takes experience and patients to find something like that.
100% I have seen many people having binding issues or even breaking knuckle bolts... my guess is, it was this.
Thank for the video Ken! Tomorrow I'm going to take some of these tips and try to help some axles in my parts bin that I gave up on 🙂
Good luck! Glad I could help!!!
Great video with excellent information!
Thanks for watching. I hope it really helped you.
Appreciate you sharing Ken Great tip
Glad to help! I hope it helps someone!
Great info...and, technically (albeit, in different ways), this applies to all vehicle types, and all scales. I recently ran into a binding issue on a 1:28 car (Reflex Racing RX28SE), which is a RWD chassis...and, as you mentioned, in 'searching' for what's causing a problem, take things one step at a time.
100% what issue did you have on your RX28?! We have 3 of them and love em (minus some durability issues, but that wouldnt matter if we wrecked less lol)
@@TheShopMiniRC I should mention that I'm running the DAA V1 front (not the KISS front)...these problems might have been corrected in the V2 kits (honestly, I don't know). Also, binding wasn't just in the front.
Starting with the front binding, the suspension arms weren't freely moving moving on the pins...tolerance was initially just a bit too tight. The same could be said of the ball ends going into the arms. Lastly, the same was true for the balls going into the rod ends on the steering links. All three problem types were 'corrected' by "opening up" the suspension arms (where the pins go through), and 'widening' where the balls go in.
The second area is binding were the side links...mostly for the same reason (and fixed the same way), but also due to a different problem. On one of the side links, on the side, where the smallest screws go in to 'tighten' the ends onto the balls, the hole for the screw was too small...not just 'slightly' too small, but 'considerably' too small. This led that links to crack right through along the top side, which, in turn, bent the "rod end" end downward, 'warping' the stance of the chassis.
Thankfully, with any problems experiences due to manufacturing/packaging errors, Christian has been fantastic. When I initially received the kit, it was missing the front-upper suspension shims. I contacted Reflex Racing about this, and Christian shipped them to me immediately, even including a couple of extras (not to mention them being if two different thickness). In the matter of the side link problem, he did the same thing, shipping those to me asap. I have to say, my experience with Reflex has, so far, been extremely good. Binding issues can happen with any kit, of any scale, to which I expect to have to resolve those problems. But, when it comes to problems related to manufacturing and/or packaging, to see a company like Reflex Racing standing behind their product, that shows an "above and beyondx approach, which is greatly appreciated.
I feel like my TRX4M could use a good going over as well. You cut the wheel and she just slows right down....even before I started f'ing with aftermarket parts. Only thing I haven't touched really are the axles.
@@ninthislandrc that all makes sense. I had to do a lot of link end “pinching” to loosen up all the link end joints. Kinda to be expected though honestly with just about any plastic link ends for any rc it seems. I’m glad Christian got you taken care of. And I agree. Customer service is huge in this market.
@@SammyM00782 you need to look at what’s actually causing the slow down.
That last bonus tip is KEY. I was having such a helluva time, wheels falling off because the nuts were too loose, everything seizing up because the nuts were too tight
Glad it helped! We have shown it in a few videos.
Thanks!
No problem! Thank you as well. You are amazing.
Thank you, just what I was looking for!!
Awesome!!! I hope it helped.
Something to keep in mind also is when you put it all the way together and put it on the truck you put your wheel pin and your hips and your tire on there when you tighten that it pulls that axle out just a little bit out of the housing so sometimes that can be just a little bit of slop in there or feel just a little too long
Good tip
Awesome tip, thank you.
Thanks for watching. I hope it helped.
good tips ken will try that when i get those ujoint style axles
You bet. It could technically even happen with dog bones if the tolerances were WAY off.
best tips and tricks for these mini's.... now we need to clone you for the 10th scales too.
Hahaha I would love to do more 1/10’stuff… but time is a premium.
I've had two aftermarket, high quality axle shaft sets so far, and both of them have had this problem. Really annoying as tolerances are the main thing I am willing to pay extra for.
Yep. Exactly why I wanted to show this and bring it to people’s attention.
I had to do that to a set of dlux fab cvds
Ooof.. you would have expected those to be high tolerance... maybe it was the axle housing or knuckles?
Same here. It was obvious that they were too long and pushing to the outside but i hesitated to file some material off - messed around and mailed them because i first could not believe and thought i had done something wrong. Injora +4 Aluminium Axles, ecactly what they were made for.
Can you do a comparison between the losi mini B and losi mini 8ight, wheelbase difference and dimensions looking to put a body for the 8ight on the B
Unfortunately I do not have a Mini 8ight. I want one though.
I have a question what tools do you recommend? I have my larger scale tools but don like fiddling with the alen keys lol plus I already stripped about 4 out of the 6 I had 😢
If you have the money, the MIP tools are fantastic.
So on my "t brand" mini, i replaced the knuckes and c-hubs with brass ones. Everything else is stock. its binding when you put the screws in. When not installed and put together, it doesn't bind. Is this a fix for that issue also?
sounds very similar. its probably worth a try to investigate it.. could also be the bearing seats in the knuckle arent deep enough.
How big a size do you have for t shirts?
There should be every size out there on the store. Check the link
Hey I need help my axial scx24 lost throttle but steering and the headlights work fine my car is all stock
Low voltage cut off.
the battery is completely charged
@@TheShopMiniRC it also stinks bad
@@QUIET100 then it’s likely an issue with your esc.
Thanks so much for the info this could be a big help Thanks again
Any time! Thanks for watching!
Can I get a link for a good quality, and complete tool kit?
“Complete” is hard as that could be hundreds of tools. I list and link some of the tools I use in the video description.