Unlike thousands of Makers (fake) who sell tutorials, and a thousand courses copied to others, here we have instructions and sketches. Great you have my like!
A second magnet 90° out of phase with the original one would tell this device everything it needs to know about the roataion speed of the motor, with a little clever programming this could sync up the face to a variable motor speed on every rotation.
This idea would be a more accurate version of what I was thinking. With even just the single index magnet, some mathematics and timing measurements could be involved to determine the RPM, wait for the motor to stabilize, and then "start up" the clock display. All the while keep measuring and readjusting the display to match inevitable but ever so slight variations in motor speed.
You should use millis() to sync up your lights to your driving motor speed. define oldMillis = millis() in your setup(), then at the beginning of your main loop, define newMillis = millis(). Check to see how long it's been since the last loop with newMillis - oldMillis, then you can use the Hall sensor as the benchmark for your RPM. Adjust a pause to taste and then assign oldMillis = newMillis at the end. Now you can run your motor at it's optimal speed (read: quietest) and have the arduino adjust it's display rate to match.
i was going to post exactly what you are saying ... but you said it in a much better way ......there should be no need to adjust the speed of the motor to complete the display ... only to optimise the rotation of the motor
@Jason Alannah I'm only a hobbyist coder, myself, but I took a look at your code, and you're doing a lot of bit shifting, which I'm not very good at. I'm guessing it's to do with the LEDs. So without comments, it's hard for me to tell what's going on. I see some built in delays, which look too precise to be anything but timing for the clock display. I can only tell you how I would approach the project. 1) Divide the entire 'image' to be drawn into slices, say 36 to make the maths easier. You can do this with cartesian -> polar coordinate mapping, or just hand write each slice and stuff it in an array during Setup(). If you do the latter, you'll still have to account for the position of the hands of the clock during runtime, but you'll have to do that either way. 2) Hall effect sensor triggers the beginning of a 'frame' (via the interrupt) and polls the time (millis()) into newTime variable. 3) newTime - oldTime = elapsedTime. This is the length of time it took the _previous_ loop to do the entire rotation. 4)elapsedTime / 36 = sliceTime. You want sliceTime so you can track how long each slice is taking on average. 5) "while (millis() - newTime)/i < sliceTime" -- Here is where we're delaying, between each slice. We want each slice to last 1/36 of a 'frame' or full rotation. 6) don't forget to set oldTime = newTime! pseudocode (I don't even know what language I think in, anymore!): Setup(){ oldTime = millis(); // something to start with ### // register an interrupt for the hall effect sensor(I don't remember how with arduino, google it) } Main(){ while true { ### // figure out the proper time and create the clock face and an array of slices to draw it. ### // Probably only needs to update once per second. } } Interrupt(){ newTime = millis(); //fetch the current time elapsedTime = newTime - oldTime; // get the time it took to do the previous loop sliceTime = elapsedTime / 36; // the length of time each slice should take for i = 1 to 36 { // do each slice ### // draw a slice while (millis() - newTime)/i < sliceTime { // delay until the current slice should have completed pass; } } oldTime = newTime; // update oldTime } It's rough, but that's what I came up with off the cuff.
@@kertanegara911 Thats what has stopped me from doing something like this.. I want it to be run by wall power, which means either using a slip ring, which complicates the mounting of it, or to do some kind of inductive charging.. haven't spent any time figuring it out. I wonder how long that battery lasts though!
Круто, оригинально! Шикарный проект! Есть одно но, кто будет это пытаться собрать - питание микроконтроллера с диодами у ротора от аккумулятора, для подзарядки часы придется останавливать и аккумулятор надо будет снимать, лучше сделать на бесконтактной передачи энергии через вращающийся трансформатор на роторе.
I appreciate you much more as a man, because you do not have very sophisticated tools you do not have good conditions and you can prove that you can Thnx man !!
ADOREI meu amigo, estou aprendendo a trabalhar com o Arduino, estou fascinado com esse universo! Ah tenho 62 anos e ainda adoro aprender ❗️ Abraço aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
I find this to be an interesting project. I look forward to assembling this project. As to some of the rude response by the know it alls, shame on them. I find your generosity in sharing your knowledge comforting.
Watching the clock is, let's be frank, is horrible for the eye, but this old-school movie idea with leds is priceless. And so is the production, of course. I'm convinced to sub.
Beautiful project and I love the high speed video of construction, nothing left out but all of it in reasonable time frame. Thanks for posting all of it!
but ardunano is capable of both controlling the rotation speed and measuring the time per revolution, to stabilize the "mechanical sweep". you can use all the capabilities of both the software and the microcontroller. this firmware has a fixed "sweep time" (and therefore the demand a stabilised rotation speed) and the microcontroller cannot control the rotation speed/sweep here. therefore, it is necessary to improve the code: make an "adaptive sweep time" based on the measured (for the previous revolution) time per full revolution. the rotation speed stabilization remains with the motor power supply circuit (but it would be better if it was a servomotor, with its own controller, or a regular motor loaded with a flywheel).
Awesome vid! Genuinely surprised when you started it spinning. I though you were just going to show a LED bar responding to the rpm of the motor. Very inspiring stuff and really liked the calming music in the background which seemed to put me in the zone for learning stuff.
Great one! You only need to shoot it with about 30fps for video to make it look uncut seamless. But for the eyes it would be undistinguishable ofcourse.
I’m lost without understanding code. However it’s cool to see that other people can figure it all out 1st for us hardware guys, so we can just upload via the usb, and then sit back and enjoy the magic light-show, lol.
Wonderfull works. Can you give information. Not getting the hall effect sensors w130 and a3144? I have hall sensors, a1104, a1126 and ugn3177. Can I use one of these. thanks.
A few "upgrades" I intend to do when I build this: 1) Wireless interface -- a simple 433MHz serial line would be simple enough to get data in. A slip-ring could work, but there's more friction/noise issues. A full bluetooth serial would be overkill. Clock could be set, and text could be changed on the fly using that interface. 2) Power -- You have a rotor and a stationary magnet (aka a generator?), so just put a coil and a diode on the rotating board, and you can suck in pulses of power. Replace battery with a largish capacitor and voltage regulator, or shove power into the battery with a voltage cap to keep from overcharging. Nano already has a Vreg, so I'm going to see if just a coil/diode/capacitor is enough. 3) Optional: Time retention -- this design is terrible for wandering time. Add an RTC chip to maintain the time while running, and possibly between runs. Or, if #1 is implemented, have some external control re-setting the time periodically. I'm probably going with the updates 4) Code optimization -- I know this is bitshifting for performance, but this code is obscure. I'll rework it to be a lot easier to read and maintain. That snipe aside, THANK YOU for the starting point from which I'll be working -- huge jumpstart to the effort! 5) I'm using a ProMini -- if you can't use the USB interface runtime, no reason to have it onboard after programming. 6) Adjustable balance -- since I'll be playing with adding/removing things, I'll add a longitudinal bolt and two nuts (to seize one another) so the CoG can be adjusted easily and precisely for balancing/noise. One change that seems obvious but probably isn't good -- Synchronizing the display delays to RPMs. Yes, I had the first initial thought that controlling the RPMs wasn't a good control mechanism, but adjusting delays could cause a more ragged display. Assuming the (calibrated) motor holds speed fairly stable once spun up, static delays probably produce a crisper result. If not, you NEED to adjust delays at all costs. I might play with this, but I *expect* to not want the self-adjusting delay.
This is a really nice project. I have one doubt. Please let me know how to set the current time in the clock. I think it would help a lot of hobbyists trying to build this. Thanks.
If you will place another magnets on backplate and some coil and charging circuit on rotating PCB you can keep battery charged, or don't use battery, only capacitor... Nice broject... battery isbetter because of RTC...
The frequency for multiplexing led displays must be larger than 50HZ to avoid flickering and less than 100HZ to avoid ghost imaging.The clock image has 60 fixed points,so the ideal frequency would be 60 x 80HZ=4800HZ refresh rate or 208us timer interrupt interval and 80 motor rotations per second.Per minute the rotations would are 288.000 which is out of reality.So for less flickering need less light points per rotation or higher speed rotation.
That's was really great, very clever and really inspired , I was just wondering how you managed calculated the delays and rpm? Really great work, bravo!
Can you please tell me about the specification of hall sensor that has been used here. And if you know kindly let me know the link from where i can buy it . Please help me.
Interesting project. Could be modified to any analog instrument readout. Tachometer, Odometer, Voltmeter etc, but the motor should be rpm controlled. With 2 center rings for slide contacts, the supply connection rids off the onboard battery. With a bluetooth or zigbee addition, the processor could be remote controlled for various display settings, e.g. a true multimeter with several ranges. Using a vertical rotating (drum) display, you could even make an oscilloscope showing vaweforms, e.g. the old rotating cola-can project.
You don't need RPM control, you can measure the RPMs from the halll sensor and adjust the tun on timing. Didn't see the code but should be doable this way.
@@davidgiardini1275 Its do-able this way, but will give flutter on the readout, as the processor only can correct pr 1 revolution. A motor control using emv sensing is very precise and was often used in former echo-sounders using exactly this type of readout.
@@davidgiardini1275 Its perfectly do-able this way but will give flutter on the readout, as the processoer con only correct pr 1 revolution. With a motor controller using emv, as the former type echo sounder readouts used, it will be much more stable.
But how do i Change time ? , And can you interface this with Android app using mit AI 2 ??? So we will able to change many graphical (Custom text ) mode using Android as remote ??
Hello, i might sound dumb, but from from looking at your code and video, i did not get the use of hall sensor, as LED are lighting up on basis of value K, which is incremeting after very loop, and second question is how are motor speed and value of K related ??? thank you
Hi, you really like your projects between them. Repulsive Magnetic Levitation using Arduino I wonder if I can use Arduino Nano? if so which pins to use thank you very much
Connect Arduino Nano Digital Pin 3 to 1K Ohm register and Arduino Analog Pin A0 to output of hall sensor. Same as Arduino Uno pins used in the diagram.
@@youtube_sucks_2k Google "Slip Ring" (Addendum:) I've had some luck using headphone jacks as slip rings. You get +V, GND and DATA as a bonus. You can buy the female to male extender, cut it in half and have both ends for your project.
Felicidades!!! Un excelente proyecto muy interesante y con unos resultados geniales... Te has ganado un nuevo y Fiel Suscriptor... Gracias por compartir éste proyecto...
As per replies elsewhere the issue is with requirement here to adjust supply for correct sync of clockface. The ideal way is to adjust the timing with respect to hall pulse, not everyone can have a stabilised 0.01% power supply )) as the results are determined by supply quality. Nicely done though and only other thing would be to use slip rings on the spindle which is fairly easy to DIY and keep the Nano and battery off the board opening up more possibilities for motor control and keeping the rotational mass down and allowing for full battery control.
Unlike thousands of Makers (fake) who sell tutorials,
and a thousand courses copied to others,
here we have instructions and sketches. Great you have my like!
Spent the first 19 minutes wondering where this was all going, and the rest of the video just in awe of what you created! Amazing!
Ditto!
A second magnet 90° out of phase with the original one would tell this device everything it needs to know about the roataion speed of the motor, with a little clever programming this could sync up the face to a variable motor speed on every rotation.
This idea would be a more accurate version of what I was thinking. With even just the single index magnet, some mathematics and timing measurements could be involved to determine the RPM, wait for the motor to stabilize, and then "start up" the clock display. All the while keep measuring and readjusting the display to match inevitable but ever so slight variations in motor speed.
Came for the video, stayed for the music. Truly beautiful. Thank you.
You should use millis() to sync up your lights to your driving motor speed.
define oldMillis = millis() in your setup(), then at the beginning of your main loop, define newMillis = millis(). Check to see how long it's been since the last loop with newMillis - oldMillis, then you can use the Hall sensor as the benchmark for your RPM. Adjust a pause to taste and then assign oldMillis = newMillis at the end.
Now you can run your motor at it's optimal speed (read: quietest) and have the arduino adjust it's display rate to match.
i was going to post exactly what you are saying ... but you said it in a much better way ......there should be no need to adjust the speed of the motor to complete the display ... only to optimise the rotation of the motor
@Jason Alannah I'm only a hobbyist coder, myself, but I took a look at your code, and you're doing a lot of bit shifting, which I'm not very good at. I'm guessing it's to do with the LEDs. So without comments, it's hard for me to tell what's going on. I see some built in delays, which look too precise to be anything but timing for the clock display. I can only tell you how I would approach the project.
1) Divide the entire 'image' to be drawn into slices, say 36 to make the maths easier. You can do this with cartesian -> polar coordinate mapping, or just hand write each slice and stuff it in an array during Setup(). If you do the latter, you'll still have to account for the position of the hands of the clock during runtime, but you'll have to do that either way.
2) Hall effect sensor triggers the beginning of a 'frame' (via the interrupt) and polls the time (millis()) into newTime variable.
3) newTime - oldTime = elapsedTime. This is the length of time it took the _previous_ loop to do the entire rotation.
4)elapsedTime / 36 = sliceTime. You want sliceTime so you can track how long each slice is taking on average.
5) "while (millis() - newTime)/i < sliceTime" -- Here is where we're delaying, between each slice. We want each slice to last 1/36 of a 'frame' or full rotation.
6) don't forget to set oldTime = newTime!
pseudocode (I don't even know what language I think in, anymore!):
Setup(){
oldTime = millis(); // something to start with
### // register an interrupt for the hall effect sensor(I don't remember how with arduino, google it)
}
Main(){
while true {
### // figure out the proper time and create the clock face and an array of slices to draw it.
### // Probably only needs to update once per second.
}
}
Interrupt(){
newTime = millis(); //fetch the current time
elapsedTime = newTime - oldTime; // get the time it took to do the previous loop
sliceTime = elapsedTime / 36; // the length of time each slice should take
for i = 1 to 36 { // do each slice
### // draw a slice
while (millis() - newTime)/i < sliceTime { // delay until the current slice should have completed
pass;
}
}
oldTime = newTime; // update oldTime
}
It's rough, but that's what I came up with off the cuff.
Hey bro, what if we change the battery with wireless charging?
@@kertanegara911 Thats what has stopped me from doing something like this.. I want it to be run by wall power, which means either using a slip ring, which complicates the mounting of it, or to do some kind of inductive charging.. haven't spent any time figuring it out. I wonder how long that battery lasts though!
@@Corbald can i use proximity sensor instead of hall sensor
Круто, оригинально! Шикарный проект! Есть одно но, кто будет это пытаться собрать - питание микроконтроллера с диодами у ротора от аккумулятора, для подзарядки часы придется останавливать и аккумулятор надо будет снимать, лучше сделать на бесконтактной передачи энергии через вращающийся трансформатор на роторе.
I appreciate you much more as a man, because you do not have very sophisticated tools you do not have good conditions and you can prove that you can Thnx man !!
ADOREI meu amigo, estou aprendendo a trabalhar com o Arduino, estou fascinado com esse universo! Ah tenho 62 anos e ainda adoro aprender ❗️
Abraço aqui do Brasil 🇧🇷
I find this to be an interesting project. I look forward to assembling this project. As to some of the rude response by the know it alls, shame on them. I find your generosity in sharing your knowledge comforting.
I've just watched 5 DIY project videos and you are the first person who actually knows how to solder properly, nice video!
Please tell how to make it 2ithout hall sensor
Thank you for taking the time and effort to share this project with us. The video was well done and the layout of your clock was beautiful.
Please send the source code we have to submit project on Monday
Watching the clock is, let's be frank, is horrible for the eye, but this old-school movie idea with leds is priceless. And so is the production, of course.
I'm convinced to sub.
This man is from another planet. ❤️
Hobby Projects, you create short circuits between space, time, hardware and software! That is what embedded computing is all about. Kudos, maestro!
Better not create short circuits or ya might frie your arduino lol
Beautiful project and I love the high speed video of construction, nothing left out but all of it in reasonable time frame. Thanks for posting all of it!
No sé que edad tenga usted. Pero definitivamente nació para esto... 👏👏👏
There is some skill in those hands.
Are you have code?
No there isn't, it is a crappy job.
@@robegatt Facile d'insulter et toi avec tes deux mains gauche quel est ta réalisation personnelle?
@@gerardmontessuit7854 What do you know about me? do not make assumptions. That is an hobbist thing and it is fine, but do not call it a skillful job.
Parabéns.....lindo projeto.....
One the easiest tuto about that. Thanks you.
This is the most amazing proyect that I've ever seen.
Very nicely explained waiting for upcoming project sir
Very clever coding to sync all the hands & text! 👏🏾
exceptional example of rpm determination!
mar sai coding nahi horahi.plz help me
You have a nice website very well documented everything, great job.
Most soothing music, and just pure enjoyment looking at you making this wonderful clock. Thank you
Reverse drill bit technology...........this IS state of the art.
Awesome
It never ceases to amaze me what creative minds can figure out what to do next with Electronics. 😁👍
but ardunano is capable of both controlling the rotation speed and measuring the time per revolution, to stabilize the "mechanical sweep". you can use all the capabilities of both the software and the microcontroller. this firmware has a fixed "sweep time" (and therefore the demand a stabilised rotation speed) and the microcontroller cannot control the rotation speed/sweep here. therefore, it is necessary to improve the code: make an "adaptive sweep time" based on the measured (for the previous revolution) time per full revolution. the rotation speed stabilization remains with the motor power supply circuit (but it would be better if it was a servomotor, with its own controller, or a regular motor loaded with a flywheel).
Проект супер, попробую повторить . Автору уважение, не прячет код
Осталось только узнать, откуда берется время, и как его корректировать. :-))))))))
@@Буги-ВугиКаждыйДень время захардкожено
@@Буги-ВугиКаждыйДень можно использовать модуль реального времени, чтобы время бралось оттуда.
@@ryazanman Можно. Но я его здесь в упор не вижу. :-)))))))
@@Буги-ВугиКаждыйДень время устанавливается тут: "byte hours = 12; // start time
byte minutes = 15;
byte seconds = 00;" корректировать только в скетче.
Excelente proyecto tratare de replicarlo saludos desde arequipa peru
Awesome vid! Genuinely surprised when you started it spinning. I though you were just going to show a LED bar responding to the rpm of the motor. Very inspiring stuff and really liked the calming music in the background which seemed to put me in the zone for learning stuff.
Elegant style of video.
Liked it so much.
I am just amazed to see the outcome. This is one of best LED projects I’ve seen. Awesome!!!!!!!
How to upload program ?
VERY, very nice job. You really know how to teach in a didactic and clear way. Congratulations.
That was terrific - excellent video my friend, you’re a gifted man.
Cheers.
Great one! You only need to shoot it with about 30fps for video to make it look uncut seamless. But for the eyes it would be undistinguishable ofcourse.
Genius! Absolute genius! I just started playing with an Arduino Uno for a lighting project, but I'm seeing so many other things I want to try.
Good project, adding a real time clock and custom pub would make it better
Please check this ua-cam.com/video/JQSWUY2GB_w/v-deo.html
Well made video, congrats on the successful project!
Cool project! And I love the music, very relaxing
Glad you like it!
Very cool project and great video! Loved the background music.
You are more intelligent than 99% of the world
I couldn't even follow what you are doing
Try this persistence of vision display. You will get what he is doing
I’m lost without understanding code. However it’s cool to see that other people can figure it all out 1st for us hardware guys, so we can just upload via the usb, and then sit back and enjoy the magic light-show, lol.
Amazing whatch👍👍👏👏🙏🙏🇳🇪🇳🇪👌👌
Wonderfull works. Can you give information. Not getting the hall effect sensors w130 and a3144? I have hall sensors, a1104, a1126 and ugn3177. Can I use one of these. thanks.
A few "upgrades" I intend to do when I build this:
1) Wireless interface -- a simple 433MHz serial line would be simple enough to get data in. A slip-ring could work, but there's more friction/noise issues. A full bluetooth serial would be overkill. Clock could be set, and text could be changed on the fly using that interface.
2) Power -- You have a rotor and a stationary magnet (aka a generator?), so just put a coil and a diode on the rotating board, and you can suck in pulses of power. Replace battery with a largish capacitor and voltage regulator, or shove power into the battery with a voltage cap to keep from overcharging. Nano already has a Vreg, so I'm going to see if just a coil/diode/capacitor is enough.
3) Optional: Time retention -- this design is terrible for wandering time. Add an RTC chip to maintain the time while running, and possibly between runs. Or, if #1 is implemented, have some external control re-setting the time periodically. I'm probably going with the updates
4) Code optimization -- I know this is bitshifting for performance, but this code is obscure. I'll rework it to be a lot easier to read and maintain. That snipe aside, THANK YOU for the starting point from which I'll be working -- huge jumpstart to the effort!
5) I'm using a ProMini -- if you can't use the USB interface runtime, no reason to have it onboard after programming.
6) Adjustable balance -- since I'll be playing with adding/removing things, I'll add a longitudinal bolt and two nuts (to seize one another) so the CoG can be adjusted easily and precisely for balancing/noise.
One change that seems obvious but probably isn't good -- Synchronizing the display delays to RPMs. Yes, I had the first initial thought that controlling the RPMs wasn't a good control mechanism, but adjusting delays could cause a more ragged display. Assuming the (calibrated) motor holds speed fairly stable once spun up, static delays probably produce a crisper result. If not, you NEED to adjust delays at all costs. I might play with this, but I *expect* to not want the self-adjusting delay.
GyroGearloose-HackingRVsCheap wooooow
Mesmerizing. Amazing, Captivating and well produced video. Thanks.
Wondering how long that battery will last. Really cool project.
This is very fascinating! I would love to do this one as my final project in Electronics Technology (AAS)
Anyone wanting to build this on their own, make sure to balance the weight, otherwise you're going to make a vibration motor.
Can i replace the hall sensor with proximity sensor
I also cant able to find this sensor. I found but with another name. kindly help me too
This is a really nice project. I have one doubt. Please let me know how to set the current time in the clock. I think it would help a lot of hobbyists trying to build this. Thanks.
Please check this ua-cam.com/video/7WrKRQ0hiUg/v-deo.html
cool little project. Love the idea ... so interesting for children to look at and understand how time delays can work with components in motion.
what is that thing called that is stuck on both sides of the pcb and holds the DC motor shaft ? Not able to buy it anywhere
Great project. Well presented. Nice, neat and clever.
This is long video, but it is awesome result! ❤️ p.s. this is 1000-th comment. :)
You know the meaning of finishing..🙏🙏Good job..
Great sharing, learned about the use of tree mold and resistors
mastermind of the world
Great stuff. I like the addition of the blue LED creating a nice border around the clock.
If you will place another magnets on backplate and some coil and charging circuit on rotating PCB you can keep battery charged, or don't use battery, only capacitor... Nice broject... battery isbetter because of RTC...
Yeah, it'll work forever..))
It's very amazing project 🙂🙂
End Level man.....One of the BEST...
That's a real piece of art !!!
thank you for sharing your wisdom
круто!
The frequency for multiplexing led displays must be larger than 50HZ to avoid flickering and less than 100HZ to avoid ghost imaging.The clock image has 60 fixed points,so the ideal frequency would be 60 x 80HZ=4800HZ refresh rate or 208us timer interrupt interval and 80 motor rotations per second.Per minute the rotations would are 288.000 which is out of reality.So for less flickering need less light points per rotation or higher speed rotation.
That's was really great, very clever and really inspired , I was just wondering how you managed calculated the delays and rpm? Really great work, bravo!
Brilliant! Simple components and no elaborate display screen needed. Everything is illusion, only motion is real!
Can you please tell me about the specification of hall sensor that has been used here. And if you know kindly let me know the link from where i can buy it . Please help me.
OMG, I absolutely LOVE this ... I'm definitely going to build one! Thank you for sharing.
Bro ur bulid this project, this project are working or not working
@@dll7860 absolutely working when you will do everything right
Interesting project.
Could be modified to any analog instrument readout.
Tachometer, Odometer, Voltmeter etc, but the motor should be rpm controlled.
With 2 center rings for slide contacts, the supply connection rids off the onboard battery.
With a bluetooth or zigbee addition, the processor could be remote controlled for various display settings, e.g. a true multimeter with several ranges.
Using a vertical rotating (drum) display, you could even make an oscilloscope showing vaweforms, e.g. the old rotating cola-can project.
You don't need RPM control, you can measure the RPMs from the halll sensor and adjust the tun on timing. Didn't see the code but should be doable this way.
@@davidgiardini1275 Its do-able this way, but will give flutter on the readout, as the processor only can correct pr 1 revolution.
A motor control using emv sensing is very precise and was often used in former echo-sounders using exactly this type of readout.
@@davidgiardini1275 Its perfectly do-able this way but will give flutter on the readout, as the processoer con only correct pr 1 revolution.
With a motor controller using emv, as the former type echo sounder readouts used, it will be much more stable.
But how do i Change time ? , And can you interface this with Android app using mit AI 2 ??? So we will able to change many graphical
(Custom text ) mode using Android as remote ??
Excellent construction - quick and clean 👍
nice job fellow artisan nice job.
Wow. This is so cool, Sir.
Many thanks!
Hola que tal como estas, muchas gracias por compartir el video y tus conocimientos. Saludos y éxitos.
O CARA É UM ARTISTA MODERNO ISSO SIM É ARTE MODERNA!!!
How do you set the time???? Very nice.
Time setting options will be provided in the future video. Thanks
Fantastic project, i will try this ! thanks for the video! have a nice day ;)
It's a great job , thank you for the video !
Hello, i might sound dumb, but from from looking at your code and video, i did not get the use of hall sensor, as LED are lighting up on basis of value K, which is incremeting after very loop, and second question is how are motor speed and value of K related ??? thank you
Hi, you really like your projects between them.
Repulsive Magnetic Levitation using Arduino
I wonder if I can use Arduino Nano? if so which pins to use thank you very much
Connect Arduino Nano Digital Pin 3 to 1K Ohm register and Arduino Analog Pin A0 to output of hall sensor. Same as Arduino Uno pins used in the diagram.
That was just amazing I was wondering how will be the clock but at the end it was just mesmerising
Thank You so much for making this video!
Just one question: Why is there a 10k ohm resistor on Hall sensor on the diagram, but not in the real design?
You will not need 10k Ohm as the port pin already pulled up in the programming. Please check this "pinMode(sensorPin,INPUT_PULLUP);" inside code.
Very good work 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Parabéns pelos projetos!
Fastly accurate high level 👌 💯
Super
project i will also try to build it thanks...
Very Nice Sir your Greet. 👍
Dear guys.. please tell me its working or not bcz.. we will make a diploma project in one week and i have no more time so pls guys help me...
The project is tested and working. You can start work on it.
That's so cool
Ik don't even noW how it can work because it rotates!!👍👍
Cool 😎
But can we not give direct supply to this instead of using battery
How would you connect the supply wires to a rotating Arduino?
@@youtube_sucks_2k Google "Slip Ring" (Addendum:) I've had some luck using headphone jacks as slip rings. You get +V, GND and DATA as a bonus. You can buy the female to male extender, cut it in half and have both ends for your project.
Yes
@@SAHNI-um1jh You must work for Microsoft ! You gave a proper answer but the information you provided was useless !
John Bull I am not employed to give you information 😤👊
Great Job, and fascinating Persistence of Vision project. I like the updated clock even better.
Bravo e molto bello
Wonderful project. I wonder if I can make it so that the second hand emulates a true analog clock moment.
Q lindo e a música foi perfeito
Felicidades!!!
Un excelente proyecto muy interesante y con unos resultados geniales...
Te has ganado un nuevo y Fiel Suscriptor...
Gracias por compartir éste proyecto...
the best of the best on realy its wonderfull
Ноутбук на зарядку, планшет на зарядку, смартфон на зарядку, сигарету на зарядку, так еще и часы настенные на зарядку! ))
Круто получилось, лайк.
ТОЛЬКО СУНУЛ АРДУИНО В ЮСБ ВХОД СГОРЕЛО САПРОТИВЛЕНИЕ ЧТО ЭТО МОЖЕТ БЫТЬ
You did super project super sholdering
You should add a real-time feature
We will add in the future Videos
As per replies elsewhere the issue is with requirement here to adjust supply for correct sync of clockface. The ideal way is to adjust the timing with respect to hall pulse, not everyone can have a stabilised 0.01% power supply )) as the results are determined by supply quality. Nicely done though and only other thing would be to use slip rings on the spindle which is fairly easy to DIY and keep the Nano and battery off the board opening up more possibilities for motor control and keeping the rotational mass down and allowing for full battery control.
лайк Спасибо для начинающих самое то )
I'm impressed. Great job. Thank you