Ok, I think I figured it out... At least I hope so. It seems there is a right and wrong way to put in the sprag carrier. Not sure if it was like that from the factory or not or if someone was in it before me... Basically, if you put the cage in with the rollers, you can get everything to align just right but the rollers only have 1/8" of play before they lock up and apply pressure to the hubs. You have to play with it to find the perfect fit, but I was able to find a spot if aligned in the ring gear/hub you can get 1/4" of play before the rollers press against the hub housing. This should eliminate premature lock up or accidental engagement. Again, this is just a theory as everything else checked out fine. I must have played with it for 30 minutes before finding the way the carrier and the bearings like to be fit to get the most play out of the bearings before pressing against the hubs. My hubs no longer engage when spinning the output spline from the pinion.
You just saved me another 1000 bucks. I rebuilt my new rzr billet diff and was experiencing the same issue. Was about to buy new built diff until I stumbled across this video. Youre my Santa claus and thank you !!!! This fixed my issue I've been fighting for 2 months . Was beginning to question my mechanical abilities of 35 years. Lol
Dont let it on 4wd at high speed cause the friction of the magnet and the metal plate heat the oil and your diff start leaking oil. And it start to not work well like your. Front diff are polaris weakness
Nope its that aluminum cage. Nothing but problems with those. Binding up,snapping drive shafts and yes staying in 4wd. There was a reason for the plastic one from factory.
My ranger gets stuck in 4 wheel drive when I slow down. The front diff locks up my front wheels, making them hard to turn. If I put it in reverse they in lock and work for a mile or so
@@danielfuller2268 I found the problem tho. My magnetic plate inside the front diff was magnatizing because a clamp inside slipped off, making it stay in 4WD. You and rebuild it if the bearing are great shape.
ryan epperson put you rzr in 2wd, drive down a hill, put razor in reverse to back up the hill and watch your front tires. It should be pretty obvious if your front tires engage like it's in 4wd. May have to do it on dirt or snow where traction is an issue.
ryan epperson there is an electronic plug that goes to your front diff. Try unplugging it first and then try the same test. If it's still engaging the front tires then you will have to tear apart your front diff like I showed in the video and inspect it. You can get the front diff out by removing your tires, front a arms from the frame and then it's just a few bolts to remove the diff from the frame. You will have to remove the driveline, it requires a punch to get the roll pin out. If your not mechanically inclined it may seem daunting. If your used to doing mechanic work you should be able to get it out in an hour.
photokendall po I'll give it a shot. Any clue why my rzr would jerk to the sides when on pavement? It's a pretty violent jerk most times. On dirt or grass you cant tell. I just bought it so trying to get everything figured out.
ryan epperson the only jerk that would make sense is if you have power steering and the unit is going out, but it would be obvious as the steering wheel would basically move on its own to the left or right. If that's not the symptom then it may be the rear diff... my dad didn't flush his regularly and his vent tubes cracked and his rear diff filled with water, rusted everything and he had to get a new rear diff installed for around $2000. His engine mounts were also wollowed out. He was hard on his machine.
Ok, I think I figured it out... At least I hope so. It seems there
is a right and wrong way to put in the sprag carrier. Not sure if it
was like that from the factory or not or if someone was in it before
me...
Basically, if you put the cage in with the rollers, you can get
everything to align just right but the rollers only have 1/8" of play
before they lock up and apply pressure to the hubs. You have to play
with it to find the perfect fit, but I was able to find a spot if
aligned in the ring gear/hub you can get 1/4" of play before the rollers
press against the hub housing. This should eliminate premature lock
up or accidental engagement.
Again, this is just a theory as everything else checked out fine. I
must have played with it for 30 minutes before finding the way the
carrier and the bearings like to be fit to get the most play out of the
bearings before pressing against the hubs. My hubs no longer engage when spinning the output spline from the pinion.
Did this work when you put differential back in ranger. I'm having heck of a time. My front wheels keep skidding across the ground
@@danielfuller2268 Yes, this fixed my issue.
Thank you for the video u saved many people time and money!!!
You just saved me another 1000 bucks. I rebuilt my new rzr billet diff and was experiencing the same issue. Was about to buy new built diff until I stumbled across this video. Youre my Santa claus and thank you !!!! This fixed my issue I've been fighting for 2 months . Was beginning to question my mechanical abilities of 35 years. Lol
@@danielfuller2268 Are all of you guys using the aftermarket sprag cage???????
It’s because the sprague was not aligned right and the armature was installed under tension.
My 03 scrambler 500 does this. Going for a rebuild
Dont let it on 4wd at high speed cause the friction of the magnet and the metal plate heat the oil and your diff start leaking oil. And it start to not work well like your. Front diff are polaris weakness
damn a was going to get a Polaris but what a junky thing i am not going to buy one now a cvt is bad plastic magnets electrical bs gross modern junk
eric lessard agreed!!!
Yep, those aftermarket sprag's. Stay with the plastic ones. Half of the problems is aftermarket junk.
Nope its that aluminum cage. Nothing but problems with those. Binding up,snapping drive shafts and yes staying in 4wd. There was a reason for the plastic one from factory.
Hi,can You help me?mi reazer 1000 for front no work of 4x4,ando back up yes
My ranger gets stuck in 4 wheel drive when I slow down. The front diff locks up my front wheels, making them hard to turn. If I put it in reverse they in lock and work for a mile or so
Hey the bull having the same problem how did you fix
@@danielfuller2268 yes. It's the front diff. I bought a rebuild one at trail motorsports. It works great.
@@danielfuller2268 I found the problem tho. My magnetic plate inside the front diff was magnatizing because a clamp inside slipped off, making it stay in 4WD. You and rebuild it if the bearing are great shape.
@@danielfuller2268 mybad it took so long.
@@thebull5099I wonder if my 2015 rzr is having this issue. It’s always in 4wd
How could you tell it was engaging? My rzr jerks to the sides when on pavement. Wondering if maybe this is the issue.
ryan epperson put you rzr in 2wd, drive down a hill, put razor in reverse to back up the hill and watch your front tires. It should be pretty obvious if your front tires engage like it's in 4wd. May have to do it on dirt or snow where traction is an issue.
photokendall thanks I'll give it a try. If they are spinning any suggestions on where I should start repairing?
ryan epperson there is an electronic plug that goes to your front diff. Try unplugging it first and then try the same test. If it's still engaging the front tires then you will have to tear apart your front diff like I showed in the video and inspect it. You can get the front diff out by removing your tires, front a arms from the frame and then it's just a few bolts to remove the diff from the frame. You will have to remove the driveline, it requires a punch to get the roll pin out. If your not mechanically inclined it may seem daunting. If your used to doing mechanic work you should be able to get it out in an hour.
photokendall po I'll give it a shot. Any clue why my rzr would jerk to the sides when on pavement? It's a pretty violent jerk most times. On dirt or grass you cant tell. I just bought it so trying to get everything figured out.
ryan epperson the only jerk that would make sense is if you have power steering and the unit is going out, but it would be obvious as the steering wheel would basically move on its own to the left or right. If that's not the symptom then it may be the rear diff... my dad didn't flush his regularly and his vent tubes cracked and his rear diff filled with water, rusted everything and he had to get a new rear diff installed for around $2000. His engine mounts were also wollowed out. He was hard on his machine.