30:48 One thing I forgot to mention the retraction settings I mention apply to Bowden tubes. If you have a direct drive you want to test at a 1mm or less or you’ll have some problems.
Hi, is it the "Retraction Distance" that should be less than 1mm? I've had some stringing issues as a ender 3 S1 Pro user. Also thank you for this excellent video.. I definitely saved this profile. Edit: Welp.. something is wrong with the settings. After finishing the initial skirt, the whole printer restarts and I get an "unexpectedly stopped files" message. ua-cam.com/video/7XCPhgyVw7c/v-deo.html It only happens when using the settings from this video, any of the default settings works fine.
@@BreakableBogus curious of what to set. The minimum distance is 10.0mm with the yellow error thing(not red). my retraction distance I have at 0.6. Yet to test
I really like how you go by each setting and explain it in a way that you understand what it is doing and why. Normally, people just gloss over settings like this and act like it's already clear enough. The use of examples and scenarios is great.
This is the second of your videos I have watched. After three years of fiddling with Flashprint, PLA and my adventurer 3, and a further two weeks of sheer frustration with trying to use ABS and PETG - I have finally made the move to Cura. So far, I have invested two hours in your videos. Great information and presented perfectly - THANK YOU!!!
Had so many issues with bed adhesion and I was always having to print on a raft, didn’t even think of first layer speed ! Works sooooo much better and I’m actually saving time and materials!! Thank you, you got a new follower!
You've nailed one of the biggest things for getting good surfaces by telling people to slow down. Three klipper machines here, all tuned, one Marlin machine that hasn't been klipperized yet, and a VMinion also fully tuned for resonance and linear advance. My default print speed range is 35 to 50 mm/sec on all of them when I intend to paint the model. Actually the VMinion can do quite well at 80, but there is a bit of improvement by dropping into the 40 to 60 range. Sort of a gut feel based on the model more than some exact rule. A vaguely boat like blob in 8 minutes isn't something of much use in my little world. You're doing some very interesting and well thought out videos here, thanks!
Well thank you for your comment. I’ve put a lot of time and thought in my stuff to make it easy to understand and help everyone. Your one of the few I’ve found on my side when it comes to speed. How quick people for get about the tortious and the hair…😄 Thanks again.
You can also adjust the wall print speed even lower, that way it doesn't slow down the print time too much because most of the time it's printing inner walls and infil.
I tried to make it for any skill level even the level of I have a box with a 3D printer in it now what?! Be sure to check out the rest of the series I break down Cura and how to use it. Best of luck and happy printing
WOW! Your videos really make a huge difference and your logic is sound!! Because of the videos, i have improved my prints and trimmed the time off substantially.Keep them coming..i will keep watching.You are one of the best teachers i have seen.Thank you
I've seen 2 of your videos on Cura and just want to thank you so much! You expain things so well and thoroughly, step by step. Makes it easy to understand and apply.
Thank you so much for these amazing videos. I have had my ender for a year now and gave up on it. until I came across one of your videos and then went on to watch many more. My prints are perfect, smooth and my main thing was warping. Raft has saved my prints. Thank you
@ItsMeaDMaDe Good morning. There are plenty of tutorial videos on You Tube. Particularly in French, my native language. I'm new to 3D printing. I use cura and fusion 360. It's really not easy to find videos as well explained as this one. You really go in depth and explain the interactions between such and such settings really well. And despite the fact that it is in English, your video is truly a blessing for me.
Thank you for all the great info, I just started 3d printing a couple months ago and you and a couple others have been a real blessing.. I bought a budget printer, (anycubic kobra 2 neo) and it has been awesome. The slicer is perfectly fine for most of what i do.. Mostly parts and hardware without tons of detail but I have reached the point that i think more options becoming important now and likely more important as I run into problems I'll need to find a fix for. Im still a little too new to really know what i need yet but im taking your opinion and tryng cura . looking forward to outgrowing my printer and uphrading but i cant say enough about how impressed i am with anycubic so far. Ive been cnc woodworking for about 10 years and now and was intimidated by 3d cad but got lucky choosing onshape to learn on. (Lucky because I went there because it was free) Six weeks later at the youtube university I'm designing and making my own stuff, couldnt have done it without help like yours, so thanks again! Also thanks for saying oriented instead of orientated! 😊
Such a good video! This has a huge number of tips I will keep referencing as I keep printing going forward. The info you shared about wall settings for nice models and overhangs will be a big help on some current problems I’ve been working through. Keep up the great videos!
Rafts are awesome for print in place as well. It avoids that elephant foot squish deformity on the bottom layer that makes it hard for stuff to move freely. This is great info. I’ll go a couple months without printing then I forget what settings to use. I have an older Anycubic but I’ve been having issues with external dimensions and pieces not fitting together properly. I think I just need to tweak some stuff and save as its own profile.
i thought you talked about adaptive layer height in a video but I couldn't find it quickly. guess ill start watching them all again. there has lots of good info. i have done about 5 busts since watching this video and they look so good now. thanks
Im so glad your prints are turning out great! I actually don’t talk about adaptive layer height. There is a lot to it and the video was long enough 😅. I was thinking I might do another separate video just talking about that in the future.
Your tutorials are top notch and entertaining. Ever thought of a live stream for beginners to show their problems/fault for you to give troubleshooting advice?
CHRIS!!! These videos are awesome! Watched two of them already and my prints already improved. Can you pleeeeeeze do one on supports?? That would be mucho appreciated!! Great job!
Hi there Chris, fantastic presentation as always 👏🏻 👍🏻 Remember that I asked about nozzle size in a previous video? Well, watching this video I realized that while Cura 5.3.0 does provide different nozzle sizes for Creality Ender 3 Pro it does not provide any other sizes than 0.4mm for Ender 3 S1 Pro. This is a problem for me as it forces me to use Cura 5.2.2 or PrusaSlicer 2.6. 😮
Glad it was helpful! But to be honest this is nothing compared to what I’m putting out in the next few weeks starting tomorrow. I’m going over everything Cura has. If you want detailed don’t miss this series. 🤓
What a wonderful channel, very helpful, whenever you find time, could you please make a video with the best settings in Ultimaker Cura for 3d printing miniature wheels for rc drift cars? 30mm x11mm.
Hi Chris, been going through your videos for the umpteenth time lol. Was just wondering when in your quality setting you the layer height at. 0.1mm and initial layer height at 0.2( 0.4 nozzle). Do you level the bed to 0.1 or 0.2, I have a feeler gauge. Thanks for all the good work you are doing for the 3d printer community. Thanks for any help. 🍺🍺
So I typically will have a first layer of .2mm and I will level my bed to a .1mm height. This ensures I get a good squish on the build plate. So you would use a 0.1mm feeler gauge.
I'm printing a Prusacaster (guitar) and the core piece has 7 walls and 25% infill to prevent warping because of strings temsion. On that topic, I printed a remix of the pickguard which has a raised hexagones logo and the lettering "Prusacaster". When I use 0.2 layer height it completely ignores the logo and the lettering. Then I tried 0.12 layer height and turning on "print thin walls" and it worked! Except I don't know which of these two changes made it work. Any idea? Very informative video as always!
That’s cool. On the topic of your question I would say it’s layer height. The quality naturally gets better the thinner the layers. That’s my best guess.
Hello. Thanks so much for your tutorials. I am about a year into my 3D printing journey and I mainly print cookie cutters. Biggest headache is stringing. Could my filament brand be the issue? I’ve tried changing settings and retraction towers with no luck
Hey! I have found some filaments are more prone to stringing it also depends on the printer. The filament could also have moisture in it as well there are multiple factors but changing to another brand to test is a good start.
Hi Chris! I'm using a AnkerMake M5. I use Cura for my settings but have to print using AnkerMake Studio. No matter what format I save to disk or export, when I open up AnkerMake Studio and import the file, I lose every setting. Is there a way around this???
That’s awesome this is my favorite comment today! Just doing my part to feed the addictions of the hobby. I do that cause I’ve found I get less fails. Don’t have any data but it seems to just work better.
Love the videos on Cura man. I just got a question, will changing speeds and stuff in Cura effect Klipper speeds? I just preordered the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro which has Klipper built into it, my current printer the Shark v3 doesn't have that. I'm just curious because I have never messed with a machine with Klipper.
Hi, I'm just getting stated in Cura, and it's connected to my Snapmaker J1s and Snapmaker 2.0 A350T 3 in 1 Dule Extrusion printer. How can I import my print settings from one PC to another, or where do I find that file? I don't know where it's stored.
I have a Qidi tech shadow 6.0 pro3d printer and new to add this can I do the same thing as the kingroon 3d printer or should I stay with just the kingpin 3d printer also I lost the Zip drive that came with it how do I replace it or do I just download it. PLEASE HELP !!!
Little confused about changing Permanent settings ie Those that will refer to EVERY setting on a particular Printer ie saving the results of these tests If so what should the order be of each setting Are changes saved automatically or should they be changed into a Profile which would then be updated each time I presume you would be running on that profile for everyday printing Special settings would be saved into that Model ie if you wanted a special pillar type A lot of problems are caused by insufficent instructions from manufacturers like setting up the build plate (Auto Level machines) initially AnyCubic has a Level Template Creality you adjust the wheels initially and then ise auto levelling
Is there a way to import settings profiles? for example I have an Anycubic Kobra Max. Could I download like a fine detail profile for doing busts or figures?
Hi, thanks for the videos, very helpful, i have a problem with my filament flatten out to the point of jamming, any ideas to look for rather then turning of retracting
Need some help.I made a Stl file with certain dimensions. however when I load the file into Cura and scale the dimensions all change. How do I tackle this
Is there a way to change my location and dimensions to millimeters instead of meters? Everyone is telling me I can, but not one person can tell me how. I'm from the U.S., metric is not my system, and with my old eyes and tired brain, I can't count the zeros anymore...
Hey im begging you to show me how to ajust my bedsize , because i have a anycubic kobra 2 max and my bedsize is 42mm x 42 mm but my cura is showing a much much more smaller bedsize .
YOU DONT ACCELERATION OR JERK ADJUST??/!!!! BRO,,,,,,BRO0..... I highly suggest trying out all accelerations set to 500, Jerks at 20, initial layer jerk/layer print jerk 8, in layer travel jerk 5. skirt brim jerrk 8. You will cut hours off your prints without quality loss. try it dude . its worth it. (And I also swear by the 15-20 mm adhesion layers but I use a cht hoternd so i crank the speed to 60 due to the extra flow ive gained with the cht nozzle (also highly recommend a CHT)
30:48 One thing I forgot to mention the retraction settings I mention apply to Bowden tubes. If you have a direct drive you want to test at a 1mm or less or you’ll have some problems.
Hi, is it the "Retraction Distance" that should be less than 1mm? I've had some stringing issues as a ender 3 S1 Pro user. Also thank you for this excellent video.. I definitely saved this profile.
Edit: Welp.. something is wrong with the settings. After finishing the initial skirt, the whole printer restarts and I get an "unexpectedly stopped files" message. ua-cam.com/video/7XCPhgyVw7c/v-deo.html It only happens when using the settings from this video, any of the default settings works fine.
@@BreakableBogus curious of what to set. The minimum distance is 10.0mm with the yellow error thing(not red). my retraction distance I have at 0.6. Yet to test
I really like how you go by each setting and explain it in a way that you understand what it is doing and why. Normally, people just gloss over settings like this and act like it's already clear enough. The use of examples and scenarios is great.
This is the second of your videos I have watched.
After three years of fiddling with Flashprint, PLA and my adventurer 3, and a further two weeks of sheer frustration with trying to use ABS and PETG - I have finally made the move to Cura.
So far, I have invested two hours in your videos.
Great information and presented perfectly - THANK YOU!!!
One of the best UA-cam videos ever! I am a BBQ, Laser Printer and more recently 3D wannabe. I am going to say it, Best Vid Ever! Well done!
Had so many issues with bed adhesion and I was always having to print on a raft, didn’t even think of first layer speed ! Works sooooo much better and I’m actually saving time and materials!! Thank you, you got a new follower!
You've nailed one of the biggest things for getting good surfaces by telling people to slow down. Three klipper machines here, all tuned, one Marlin machine that hasn't been klipperized yet, and a VMinion also fully tuned for resonance and linear advance. My default print speed range is 35 to 50 mm/sec on all of them when I intend to paint the model. Actually the VMinion can do quite well at 80, but there is a bit of improvement by dropping into the 40 to 60 range. Sort of a gut feel based on the model more than some exact rule. A vaguely boat like blob in 8 minutes isn't something of much use in my little world. You're doing some very interesting and well thought out videos here, thanks!
Well thank you for your comment. I’ve put a lot of time and thought in my stuff to make it easy to understand and help everyone. Your one of the few I’ve found on my side when it comes to speed. How quick people for get about the tortious and the hair…😄
Thanks again.
You can also adjust the wall print speed even lower, that way it doesn't slow down the print time too much because most of the time it's printing inner walls and infil.
Best 3d video on UA-cam! Keep posting! You just answered about 90% of the questions I have about 3d printing!
Finally! Someone with a Cura video explaining this process like I'm 5 years old! Hella yeah, bless you brotha! So ready to begin my printing journey!
I tried to make it for any skill level even the level of I have a box with a 3D printer in it now what?! Be sure to check out the rest of the series I break down Cura and how to use it. Best of luck and happy printing
WOW! Your videos really make a huge difference and your logic is sound!! Because of the videos, i have improved my prints and trimmed the time off substantially.Keep them coming..i will keep watching.You are one of the best teachers i have seen.Thank you
I've seen 2 of your videos on Cura and just want to thank you so much! You expain things so well and thoroughly, step by step. Makes it easy to understand and apply.
Thank you so much for these amazing videos. I have had my ender for a year now and gave up on it. until I came across one of your videos and then went on to watch many more. My prints are perfect, smooth and my main thing was warping. Raft has saved my prints. Thank you
@ItsMeaDMaDe
Good morning. There are plenty of tutorial videos on You Tube. Particularly in French, my native language. I'm new to 3D printing. I use cura and fusion 360. It's really not easy to find videos as well explained as this one. You really go in depth and explain the interactions between such and such settings really well. And despite the fact that it is in English, your video is truly a blessing for me.
Thank you for all the great info, I just started 3d printing a couple months ago and you and a couple others have been a real blessing.. I bought a budget printer, (anycubic kobra 2 neo) and it has been awesome. The slicer is perfectly fine for most of what i do.. Mostly parts and hardware without tons of detail but I have reached the point that i think more options becoming important now and likely more important as I run into problems I'll need to find a fix for. Im still a little too new to really know what i need yet but im taking your opinion and tryng cura . looking forward to outgrowing my printer and uphrading but i cant say enough about how impressed i am with anycubic so far. Ive been cnc woodworking for about 10 years and now and was intimidated by 3d cad but got lucky choosing onshape to learn on. (Lucky because I went there because it was free) Six weeks later at the youtube university I'm designing and making my own stuff, couldnt have done it without help like yours, so thanks again! Also thanks for saying oriented instead of orientated! 😊
Just wow! It was the best video ive ever watched about cura settings, Thanks!
Learned a lot! Especially about analyzing the slices in Cura to avoid time intensive fails. Great advise!
That’s awesome glad I could help. Analyzing prints is something most don’t do but it can save time and filament!
Thank you! I’ve been printing almost 2 months now. Today I learned about infill and ironing.
Wonderful! Those are definitely two important settings. You should be checking and understanding best of luck with your future Printing!
Such a good video! This has a huge number of tips I will keep referencing as I keep printing going forward. The info you shared about wall settings for nice models and overhangs will be a big help on some current problems I’ve been working through. Keep up the great videos!
Glad it was helpful!
I really enjoy how you actually explain what things are your an amazing teacher thank you for your time.
this video changed everything i know or knew about 3d printing. thank you for this video
Wow! Well I’m glad I could help!
Rafts are awesome for print in place as well. It avoids that elephant foot squish deformity on the bottom layer that makes it hard for stuff to move freely.
This is great info. I’ll go a couple months without printing then I forget what settings to use. I have an older Anycubic but I’ve been having issues with external dimensions and pieces not fitting together properly. I think I just need to tweak some stuff and save as its own profile.
i thought you talked about adaptive layer height in a video but I couldn't find it quickly. guess ill start watching them all again. there has lots of good info. i have done about 5 busts since watching this video and they look so good now. thanks
Im so glad your prints are turning out great! I actually don’t talk about adaptive layer height. There is a lot to it and the video was long enough 😅. I was thinking I might do another separate video just talking about that in the future.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe cool, I just found out that it messes with your supports. It makes them go at weird angles and not work as good.
I’m a newbie 😂 but these videos make me a pro. Appreciate you my man… GREAT VIDEO AND KEEP THEM COMING
That’s amazing. Super happy to hear that. Thanks for the comment.
Pure gold right here! Thanks again!
No problem glad to help!
Your tutorials are top notch and entertaining.
Ever thought of a live stream for beginners to show their problems/fault for you to give troubleshooting advice?
Thank you for these tutorials, they are really helpful. I can't help but wonder the amount of tinkering you did to achieve all these helpful tips
Fantastic video. Helps a lot. I am printing with ASA and this has helped greatly. Thanks.
You’re really good at teaching ! such a nice and good video :) thanks !
CHRIS!!! These videos are awesome! Watched two of them already and my prints already improved. Can you pleeeeeeze do one on supports?? That would be mucho appreciated!! Great job!
ROB!!! Glad you like them and I’m glad your seeing good results. I’m planning on a support video in the near future.
Excellent informational video, as always! Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
New to printing, thanks for the cura rundowns!
Excellent video. This is very helpful, I wish I had this info when I started printing.
one of the best tutorials ❤👌
THANK YOU hello from Colombia the best 3d teacher
Fantastic video! Really well done, it was a huge help.
That’s great I’m really glad to hear it!
Thanks Chris!!! Very Helpful!!!! 👊👍😎
Great to hear!
Bless you brother! Great video!!
Thanks I’m glad you liked it.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe LOVED it!
Hi there Chris, fantastic presentation as always 👏🏻 👍🏻
Remember that I asked about nozzle size in a previous video? Well, watching this video I realized that while Cura 5.3.0 does provide different nozzle sizes for Creality Ender 3 Pro it does not provide any other sizes than 0.4mm for Ender 3 S1 Pro. This is a problem for me as it forces me to use Cura 5.2.2 or PrusaSlicer 2.6. 😮
Thanks!
Very strange. You can’t change it in the top panel of the screen? I’ve never heard of anyone not being able to change it…
@@ItsMeaDMaDe There is always a "first time" for everything 😛
Great video with excellent tips.
very detailed tutorial. thank you so much
Glad it was helpful! But to be honest this is nothing compared to what I’m putting out in the next few weeks starting tomorrow. I’m going over everything Cura has. If you want detailed don’t miss this series. 🤓
Another very informative video, thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Where is it!? I want to see the Hulk print! Haha 😂😭😅 But seriously this is helpful print gold right here thank you. 🙏🏽
Ha. I was waiting for someone to say that 🤣😂
thanks very much for your video help . i am going to try this.
Great glad I could help!
What a wonderful channel, very helpful, whenever you find time, could you please make a video with the best settings in Ultimaker Cura for 3d printing miniature wheels for rc drift cars? 30mm x11mm.
Any chance of an update on this video and possibly a link to import your preferred settings?
I'm confused, in your video about travel settings, you discussed not using Retract at Layer Change?
Thanks. When I use lighting I always clicking from the nozzle dragging or hitting the infill.
Let me do a short explaining what you could do to fix this.
Thanks for all the info.
Hi Chris, been going through your videos for the umpteenth time lol. Was just wondering when in your quality setting you the layer height at. 0.1mm and initial layer height at 0.2( 0.4 nozzle). Do you level the bed to 0.1 or 0.2, I have a feeler gauge.
Thanks for all the good work you are doing for the 3d printer community.
Thanks for any help. 🍺🍺
So I typically will have a first layer of .2mm and I will level my bed to a .1mm height. This ensures I get a good squish on the build plate. So you would use a 0.1mm feeler gauge.
Thankyou.
This is fantastic. Thank you
I'm printing a Prusacaster (guitar) and the core piece has 7 walls and 25% infill to prevent warping because of strings temsion. On that topic, I printed a remix of the pickguard which has a raised hexagones logo and the lettering "Prusacaster". When I use 0.2 layer height it completely ignores the logo and the lettering. Then I tried 0.12 layer height and turning on "print thin walls" and it worked! Except I don't know which of these two changes made it work. Any idea? Very informative video as always!
That’s cool. On the topic of your question I would say it’s layer height. The quality naturally gets better the thinner the layers. That’s my best guess.
Hello. Thanks so much for your tutorials. I am about a year into my 3D printing journey and I mainly print cookie cutters. Biggest headache is stringing. Could my filament brand be the issue? I’ve tried changing settings and retraction towers with no luck
Hey! I have found some filaments are more prone to stringing it also depends on the printer. The filament could also have moisture in it as well there are multiple factors but changing to another brand to test is a good start.
Thank you. I'm on a ender 3 v2 BTW.
what was the settings for print in place models? Ty for such detailed instructions 🙂
Would these settings apply to a larger nozzle size such as a 6 ? I have some glow in the dark glitter I want to a quality model with.
Hi Chris! I'm using a AnkerMake M5. I use Cura for my settings but have to print using AnkerMake Studio. No matter what format I save to disk or export, when I open up AnkerMake Studio and import the file, I lose every setting. Is there a way around this???
I have binge watched your channel since finding it a few days ago. Why do you tun your prints perpendicular? Is there a reason?
That’s awesome this is my favorite comment today! Just doing my part to feed the addictions of the hobby.
I do that cause I’ve found I get less fails. Don’t have any data but it seems to just work better.
@@ItsMeaDMaDe sometimes experience over data gets the best result in life. Thanks for the response.
Do you have a must do list for when you get a new filament. Like, temp tower, retraction tower, flow calibration and so on
I’ll make you another shirt to answer this. Let’s see if I can answer it in 60 seconds 😅
Here is your answer!
ua-cam.com/users/shortsVyunhZ6LEEA?feature=share
great video ! thanks !
Love the videos on Cura man. I just got a question, will changing speeds and stuff in Cura effect Klipper speeds? I just preordered the Elegoo Neptune 4 Pro which has Klipper built into it, my current printer the Shark v3 doesn't have that. I'm just curious because I have never messed with a machine with Klipper.
Hi, I'm just getting stated in Cura, and it's connected to my Snapmaker J1s and Snapmaker 2.0 A350T 3 in 1 Dule Extrusion printer. How can I import my print settings from one PC to another, or where do I find that file? I don't know where it's stored.
Hi !
I do not have that title bar on top where you choose the printer, material...!
I use Cura 5.4
Thanks!
Thank you so much Dennis!! I really appreciate the support!
can you make a beginners tutorial for tevo tornado 3d printer?
Aloha I know you mentioned on here that these settings are for ender3, would it work on cr10 with a 0.6 nozzle?
So I have a CR-10 and these settings work for it too. But. I haven’t used a .6mm nozzle with it. I would have to do some tests to find out.
I have a Flsun v400 3d printer set up the same way the settings would be about the same
I have a Qidi tech shadow 6.0 pro3d printer and new to add this can I do the same thing as the kingroon 3d printer or should I stay with just the kingpin 3d printer also I lost the Zip drive that came with it how do I replace it or do I just download it. PLEASE HELP !!!
Little confused about changing Permanent settings ie Those that will refer to EVERY setting on a particular Printer ie saving the results of these tests
If so what should the order be of each setting
Are changes saved automatically or should they be changed into a Profile which would then be updated each time
I presume you would be running on that profile for everyday printing
Special settings would be saved into that Model ie if you wanted a special pillar type
A lot of problems are caused by insufficent instructions from manufacturers like setting up the build plate (Auto Level machines) initially AnyCubic has a Level Template Creality you adjust the wheels initially and then ise auto levelling
I like you tutorials, but I have never get a good set up with yours settings.
I love this video ❤
Is there a way to import settings profiles? for example I have an Anycubic Kobra Max. Could I download like a fine detail profile for doing busts or figures?
Do you share the profiles you create?
Hi Chris, thank you
You are very welcome
Hi, thanks for the videos, very helpful, i have a problem with my filament flatten out to the point of jamming, any ideas to look for rather then turning of retracting
Extruder is too tight had that issue last night
Need some help.I made a Stl file with certain dimensions. however when I load the file into Cura and scale the dimensions all change. How do I tackle this
Is there any way that you can share or talk about how you get the G code to actually have Cura run the machine if it's connected to a computer?
I could add that to the list for a future video.
Nice!
Is there a way to change my location and dimensions to millimeters instead of meters? Everyone is telling me I can, but not one person can tell me how. I'm from the U.S., metric is not my system, and with my old eyes and tired brain, I can't count the zeros anymore...
Why can't I see the Nozzle Drop down when in "Prepare"? I only see an option to see "Material"
I’m not aware of this feature in Cura.
Hey im begging you to show me how to ajust my bedsize , because i have a anycubic kobra 2 max and my bedsize is 42mm x 42 mm but my cura is showing a much much more smaller bedsize .
Can we get your profile you created in this video?
Bro I’m struggling. I’m going to go through every second of this. I have a old Anet A8
Sometimes you just have to tell Cura, “ Wasup”? Classic
Hello sir I buy a creality 3v2 neo but I can print nothing it just spaghetti salad can you help me please thanks
Can you save "Your Settings"
How can we add your profile into cura?
How does this model print without supports?!
waiting for supports
Takk!
No Thank you so much. I’m glad this could help you!!
We can't go on meeting like this...
YOU DONT ACCELERATION OR JERK ADJUST??/!!!! BRO,,,,,,BRO0.....
I highly suggest trying out all accelerations set to 500, Jerks at 20, initial layer jerk/layer print jerk 8, in layer travel jerk 5. skirt brim jerrk 8. You will cut hours off your prints without quality loss. try it dude . its worth it. (And I also swear by the 15-20 mm adhesion layers but I use a cht hoternd so i crank the speed to 60 due to the extra flow ive gained with the cht nozzle (also highly recommend a CHT)
Dude looks like he 3d printed his mustache. Good content though. 👍
I print slow too. Mostly of the time I don't go more than 40mm/s. When you print for quantity, you lose that quality.
The 1930's cartoon villain moustache is too distracting...
Lol 😅 I love his mustache
i print my first layers at 5mm/s🤣
You know guy your videos are good but way too long ya my loss … get to the point . Ty
Thanks!
Thanks so much I really appreciate it and I’m super glad I could help you!
Thanks!
Hey!!! THANK YOU! Thanks so much for the super thanks and supporting my channel. I really appreciate it!