Awesome. Just don't wet plywood it will warp everytime lol here's a quick tip though instead of engraving, fully cut out the sections and glue the pieces in with a backer attached to the clock.
These are beautiful! Can I ask a couple of questions... what diameter clock part did you get and did you cut the center hole the same size? Also how did you hang it on the wall with the clock mechanism sticking out further at the back? I''m a beginner but am in the process of designing a sports clock for my son at christmas and if you're willing to offer any advice I would be so grateful! These are absolutely stunning!
Oh thank you so much Jodi, your kind words mean a lot to me! For the clock mechanism that I purchased, which there is a link to in the description of the video, they had a 1/4" stem that you insert through the wood. My laser cut files used that exact dimension for the central hole (6.35mm) and it was a tight fit - the threads dug in just a tiny bit. If I were to do it again I would probably add an extra .15mm diameter to that cut, so a 6.5mm hole. And for hanging it on the wall, the clock mechanism came with a sheet metal bracket that hangs on a simple nail in the wall, unfortunately it does mean that the clock face itself is pushed away from the wall by about 16mm. This does make the clock kind of want to tip forward just a little bit, but I kind of like seeing the shadow cast on the wall by the clock, rather than the look of it just being flat on the wall with no dimension to it. You could add standoffs or a ring on the backside of your clock to get the illusion of the clock being thicker than it is, but it really just helps to sit the clock flatter on the wall. And for your sports clock, you so got this! I was actually just making a Seattle Seahawks wine bottle balancer last night for a Christmas gift. I found a high resolution logo, imported it into Inkscape, and used the "Trace Bitmap" function to create a path of the logo details. You'll need to play with the sliders there to pull out what you want but it can be a lot faster that manually tracing out a logo on your own with splines. Another tip would be to pick clock hands that have better contrast with the background. Mine were wood on wood and they kind of fade away when you look at it. In the end, the clock for my sister is used more as a piece of art rather than as a clock because of that. Which is still a success in my book :) Let me know how your clock turns out!
They all came out great! If you cut out three different pieces of veneer in that same pattern and split them into thirds and reassemble the pattern with the three different colors, you will have cone the whole project without raster, you would just need a surface to glue to!
Awesome. Just don't wet plywood it will warp everytime lol here's a quick tip though instead of engraving, fully cut out the sections and glue the pieces in with a backer attached to the clock.
That is a good idea! Not working with the thin, small pieces of veneer would be much nicer too. I appreciate that!
Those clocks are so amazing, Brian! Impressive! And great video making - seeing the process was very cool
Thank you so much Mario! I appreciate it :)
Those came out amazing
Thank you! I appreciate it :)
These are beautiful! Can I ask a couple of questions... what diameter clock part did you get and did you cut the center hole the same size? Also how did you hang it on the wall with the clock mechanism sticking out further at the back? I''m a beginner but am in the process of designing a sports clock for my son at christmas and if you're willing to offer any advice I would be so grateful! These are absolutely stunning!
Oh thank you so much Jodi, your kind words mean a lot to me! For the clock mechanism that I purchased, which there is a link to in the description of the video, they had a 1/4" stem that you insert through the wood. My laser cut files used that exact dimension for the central hole (6.35mm) and it was a tight fit - the threads dug in just a tiny bit. If I were to do it again I would probably add an extra .15mm diameter to that cut, so a 6.5mm hole. And for hanging it on the wall, the clock mechanism came with a sheet metal bracket that hangs on a simple nail in the wall, unfortunately it does mean that the clock face itself is pushed away from the wall by about 16mm. This does make the clock kind of want to tip forward just a little bit, but I kind of like seeing the shadow cast on the wall by the clock, rather than the look of it just being flat on the wall with no dimension to it. You could add standoffs or a ring on the backside of your clock to get the illusion of the clock being thicker than it is, but it really just helps to sit the clock flatter on the wall. And for your sports clock, you so got this! I was actually just making a Seattle Seahawks wine bottle balancer last night for a Christmas gift. I found a high resolution logo, imported it into Inkscape, and used the "Trace Bitmap" function to create a path of the logo details. You'll need to play with the sliders there to pull out what you want but it can be a lot faster that manually tracing out a logo on your own with splines. Another tip would be to pick clock hands that have better contrast with the background. Mine were wood on wood and they kind of fade away when you look at it. In the end, the clock for my sister is used more as a piece of art rather than as a clock because of that. Which is still a success in my book :) Let me know how your clock turns out!
@@engineeredrelics Great explanation. Thanks for detailed sharing !!
They all came out great! If you cut out three different pieces of veneer in that same pattern and split them into thirds and reassemble the pattern with the three different colors, you will have cone the whole project without raster, you would just need a surface to glue to!
You are so right! and in hindsight I wish I had done it that way. It would have saved me a lot of headache haha