Tying the Compact JRB Ascender Hitch, version 3
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- Introduction and demonstration of a new variant of the "compact" JRB Ascender Hitch, a novel friction hitch, which can be used in SRT, SRS, DRT/DdRT/MRS climbing applications, as well as a conventional tether applications for a saddle hunter who is using climbing sticks (or one-stick), steps, or even a ladder as the climbing methods. The hitch is strong, secure, easy to break/move after loading and is auto-tending, making progress capture simple.
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DISCLAIMER: Viewers assume responsibility for their own safety. This video is provided for demonstrational and informational purposes only, and is not considered advice nor instruction. Climbing and related knot tying activities are dangerous and should be performed only with appropriate training, supervision and protective equipment. The author disclaims responsibility for the clarity, comprehensiveness and accuracy of the content, as well as all liability for accidents or injuries incurred. - JRB Tree Climbing LLC
#jrbtreeclimbing #treeclimbing #saddlehunting #arborist #climbing #knots #srt #ropeclimbing #deerhunting #deer
Great up close camera work, very easy to follow, and the nail really helps simplifies the intended direction of the rope.
Thanks John
Doing my best. These are done after midnight when the kids are asleep and obviously, I am the camera operator and the hardest part is staying zoomed in and keeping the knot in the field of view!
I am liking the non jamming compact version 2 with the tied ends in front,overhand knots with a foot loop instead of a ring or carabiner, on my hitch climbing rope . A total of 4 hitches on it, 2 zeniths for the bridge, two compact 5-2-3 jrb ascenders with foot loops
But I’m having a problem with redundant attachment to the rope on my second bridge, too much slack, dangerous if my top hitch slips, so likely go back to the Garda, that works perfectly. I might devise an adjustable footloop of web and a buckle
I am now using the Garda for all my footloop needs.
@@jrbtc that does seem to be the best fit for redundant safety and ease of ascension, ease of removal, no way to drop it, just works flawlessly, I have to give you a BIG THANK YOU for sharing that , what, two years ago now? Oh , one thing I am doing with the Garda is along with the long DSRT loop, I hung a short foot loop on there also. But I like the shove from above technique on both my SRT and DSRT climbs, with a long main bridge, so really don’t need to worry about different foot loop lengths. Just experimenting with web foot loops that are adjustable with the web running through the loops of 5-2-3 JRB soft bridge ascender. The buckle I am testing is a simple slider with a hook that is rated for climbing use. It does take my full weight so being careful with it, don’t really trust it just yet, I could see it slipping off the hook if I was not inspecting it closely at the beginning of a climb. But the hitch is not removable like the Garda , so it’s kinda in the way on rappel, but it will slide along under the top ascender hitch, or I could place it under the Munter. This would be only for SRT hitch climbing. DSRT I use only two 5-2-3’s soft bridge and the Garda. I’m using the soft bridge as often I will use the climbing rope as my tether at hunting height and might need one handed adjustment. But I will always carry a couple Longhorns , Garda, and a tether rope just in case.
Another great video. Thank you.
Please don’t drop the OG Compact ascender. No matter how hard to tie, it so neat and tidy with no floppy stuff dangling around. It’s great for a tether!
Look forward to trying the newest version too.
Appreciate the feedback. And yes, this version is equally compact but easier to tie.
Yes sir I agree, don’t drop it off
On my saddle I switched from a 11 mm lineman rope with a Ropeman 1 ascender to 8mm Sterling Oplux . Rather than forking out money for a Kong Duck ascender I tied this hitch in place of a mechanical device. This friction hitch is great, working better and smoother than the mechanical devices IMHO.
hhhmmm, so there is still a tail that can be used when in tight to the tree at the top of an ascent… really like using a rappel ring as it fits in my hand so nice, and with an agile hitch as a back up, I feel really secure , adds redundancy for the srt pole hitch climb
John, I was practicing at ground level off my back porch on a steep hillside with the ascender hitch as my means of ascent and a repel ring for descent.
After the first descent the JRB Ascender Hitch wouldn’t hold unless I messed with it a bunch.
Did the Repel ring flatten the rope? Did it break down the rope fibre? I’m using 8mm Oplux with 6mm Sterling cord.
Can I add another wrap and make it a 6-2-3?
If you're in my JRB Tree Climbing facebook group, please post a photo there. 6mm cord on 8mm rope is a good combination but fairly aggressive for a single rope application especially for heavier climbers. Yes, another wrap might help and a 7/9.5mm combination would likely perform better. There are a lot of variables including the cord you are using. Most 6mm cords aren't recommended for a life safety application for example. Please refer to the rope and cord pages on the website and be sure you have all that information under your belt.
jrbtreeclimbing.com/
Can these be done with an eye2eye prusik cord.? And how long does it need to be.?
I don't use anything that has tails and stopper knots.
The compact variations can't be tied with an eye to eye. I know that some have tied the standard version with one but getting the two legs perfectly balanced will require a few tries. It will require a long eye to eye and the length will depend on your diameters. All in all, i dont recommend it. You need a length of quality hitch cord at a diameter 75% that of your rope. Check here for length recommendations.
jrbtreeclimbing.com/content/length-specs/
Hi I know this. Is a little bit odd but I'm looking for that episode with The knot with the chain incorporate into it. Thx
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I have the the tethrd eberhart saddle and I’m looking to replace the giant heavy metal D loops that are on it. They’re heavy and cause the saddle to loosen all the time. Would one of these knots work to replacing them? So many knots out there it’s hard to figure out which one to apply for this application. I no it’ll void my warranty but at this point I don’t care. Three years of punishment I just want it fixed glad I found your channel. Thanks
Unfortunately, I can't advise that. Sure, it's possible to rig something up, such as a loop or soft shackle to replace the rings, but as I understand that design, the rings hold the entire saddle together and provide load points too. Any kind of soft implement is going to completely change the load and shape dynamics and you might be unhappy with the results. And it would need to be tested and regularly inspected as I am guessing a soft loop wouldn't leave a good place to affix a bridge either. Sorry, but you're life is to valuable to experiment with.
@@jrbtc thank you for this. I’ll have to upgrade to something else then.
The D rings allow the panels, (it’s a 2 panel saddle), to slide easily and adjust as you move them, you can move the top panel either up on your lower back, or position it under your butt, and as you move it for your comfort or support as you walk wearing it, climb hanging on your rope, or are stationary on rope while hunting the panels change in length. I use a homemade copy of the eberhart signature. The D rings don’t cause any loosening of the saddle, The only way the panels would loosen would be when you do not have tension with your weight on your tether and bridge, such as when you advance up the rope when climbing and momentarily take your weight off the saddle as you step up in your foot loop, just before you shove your hitches and bridge back up tight and sit into it, you can solve this problem by tightening/modifying your waist strap,the eberhart has the waist strap running through the D rings, my modification is to have them not run through the D rings but inside across my waist when climbing, when walking I do run them rhrough the D rings to keep them tight against my waist, but when climbing with tension from your rope/tether and bridge the D rings should be out from your waist being pulled out by the rope and bridge. Hope this helps, just play with it hooked up low to the ground and get it like you like it, you can easily modify the waist strap and not significantly alter the design of the saddle or jeopardize your safety.
@@kennethrogers1129 thank you very much this makes way more sense and your way seems to be a better way of using it. I’ve been hunting 4 years out of this saddle and only thing I hate is the metal d rings. Weight, belt always loosens feels like I’m wearing sagging pants, noise wedding ring bangs it or climbing stick. Otherwise it’s comfortable.
I mean chain link
I’ll give v3 a chance, but it seems like putting the carabiner on the knot, goes against everything we’ve been taught.
I understand. But we didn't have a hitch where the carabiner would reliably move the hitch nor a way to tie it that compact. Are you climbing MRS?
I tend to use the JRB double rope method more than any other method.
@@rangerdog316 ok, so for my stationary doubled rope JRB system, as stated in the video, i use the one on the left: the 523 JRB Ascender in Soft Bridge Mode with one loop exposed. Here's the video on how to tie it:
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Thanks. I was just talking about the carabiner being loaded on the knot in v3. For example, we were all taught to offset the knot, or sewn ends, of the prusik, so they aren’t at the bottom.
@@rangerdog316 i understand. Yes, the flat overhand bend is not the strongest bend when it's being pulled 180 degree directions However, in this configuration, it's not being loaded that way, and is mated with the carabiner. Also, its only taking half of our load. Lastly, it's backed up. I did a lot of testing on it and can't get it to budge.
I’ve been zipping by these videos as I was looking with blinders on for the last couple yrs!!!! Now that I’ve started watching some of them they are by far some of the best videos I’ve seen for tying and using different knots for arborist which in my past life I did as a job but now I’m getting into the saddle hunting thing and learning everything I can. I don’t mind mech descenders and the such but I already have 38ft of Sterling Oplux and 6mm sterling I believe TPC and I have the beaners and think this maybe a better option even then figure 8 as there’s one less thing to lose or drop. Now I know I can ascend with this knot but do you need to use this in conjunction with anything else to descend? I know you show it with a Munter hitch in another video but you need a 2nd bridge for that. Really want to know if this is both a repelling and ascending knot? I’m wanting to have this on my one stick repel line and not having to remove a devise every time goin up and down. Mad rock is nice cuz you can use one thing for both. Again GREAT videos!!!!!
This hitch or the Longhorn Agile Hitch is great for your application. On Rappel, the friction hitch is NOT your source of friction. It's only along for the ride. Your friction device such as a Munter absorbs most of the friction and yes, I like the Munter on my short bridge. I just published a new design for a double bridge. And here is the rappel video.
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@@jrbtc thanks for the response!!!! Your vid’s are really great for anyone looking to use ropes for anything off terra firms. Thx again!!!!
@@jrbtc I was also thinking since I have my linemens belt attached with two beaners that would work to as a quick attach bridge wouldn’t it?