I'm glad to hear that this video helped you learn many lessons, Weld.com has many videos with all the processes you can learn from, Thanks for watching!
Perfect timing, I just got my 3F ER309L weld signed off at school today. The objective was for a 1/4" lap joint and it took me about 4 hours and 8 attempts. I got a real nice looking bead on my 1F practice run but once I switched to vertical up the rod stared fighting me at every turn.
Good stuff man. I had to do 1/4 cs to 1/4 ss 3G with Cs backing strap with 309 wire. Very tough to not have under cut or to much roll. Really have to push fast
Great video on 309, my second favorite electrodes, behind hard to find 7028’s! I had to watch this again as I haven’t welded carbon to stainless in about 5 years. I have a backyard project coming up with stainless and I needed a “refresher course on 309-16 vs 309-17. Thanks for the video!
Er309 also is good for when you’re dealing with unknown flavors of stainless, e.g. cookware. Never run it stick, but have done a little bit of it in Tig.
we used to just keep 309 in the machine shop I worked for as an all purpose rod as we did repairs and never rally knew what material we were welding, it worked great for carbon to carbon, we never had any weld breakage over a 20 year period...if we knew the steel, as in new fabrication, we would use the correct carbon steel rod...like A36 steel
Stainless has the only spring loaded slag! Rule number one is mouth closed Rule number two is hand in front to deflect while taking slag off with the hammer Rule number three is brace yourself next for your first vertical full stainless weld and watch all that metal dribble down
I've never ran 309 in a stick, but have burnt quite a bit of ER309L with TIG. I recently had some difficulty with both 309 & 312, in joining 17-4 SS to high carbon steel (rotary hammer bits). I'm not sure why both 309 & 312 cracked/busted/failed.....but multiple pass ER70-S2 has been holding up great. I'd love to hear any thoughts on what the issue is, because I have always heard & thought this was a primary purpose of 309- Thanks!
hey Robert, did you preheat the high carbon steel? when you make multiple passes you actually temper the weld and make it more ductile. That is good.....Try a preheat of 300 to 450 f.... with Interpass in the same area, there is some data out there on the net... slowly cool......get some Bentonite....very cheap.....it is oil dry or kitty liter and cover part to slowly cool, no need to make a fancy oven or use weld blanket ....let all the commenters know how it works, maybe buy some er80s-2 or even er90s-2......I know, 309 has a tensile strength of 85,000 psi, 312 is 120,000 psi....there is a Harris product, Super Missle Weld that is pretty much the same was 312, but more expensive, you might try getting a pound of that....
@@atomichydrogenweld2823 In both cases, it was roughly a 1" shaft; so I didn't even consider that a preheat/slow cool down would be necessary. One tool is a rebar driver, and the other lengthened a clay spade to about 3FT (I'm a Land Surveyor in real life). In fairness, the weld joint probably wasn't beveled enough initially....but I did a super-bevel after the failure and when I used the 70-S2 (which has thus far worked). The tensile strength differences of the different welds is obvious, when attempting to machine the failed weld off the joints- 70-S2 is easy....309 is tougher, but doable....312 is a PITA I'm a Harris fan, and have heard of the "Super Missle Rod" although I haven't tried it yet. 309 & especially 312 look nicer. I'll pay more attention to pre/post heat the next time I give it a go. These tools really take a pounding in the rocks, from the rotary hammer.
Love the welding tips but you might want to check in to Stainless Steel Welding Rods giving off Hexavalent Chromium (Chromium 6/Cr VI)? Just to be on the safe side.
Sorry you didn't like me telling you the Truth. I would be careful about not informing people watching your video of the Dangerous condition caused by the welding process. I was a Quality Assurance Manager & Safety Manager for many years. So I gather you don't like me telling the truth so I will be leaving this post, and hope you don't get Sued too badly.
Great video quality, and thanks for the video! Yes, wait to chip the slag ‘till it cools off. I burned my lip real bad one time.My girlfriend thought I was messing around on her😂
What do you think about using 316L for welding 304 or 304 to carbon steel. Lincolns data sheet seems to suggest 316L can weld most of the 300 stainless. I was curious if it was okay to weld carbon to stainless with it. Basically I have a bunch of 316 wire. Thanks.
if you have the wire already, which is more expensive than 308 and your specifications do not say what to use, you would be ok to use 316, but you need to follow the WPS if working under a code. 309 has more chrome and nickel than 316 to make up for the difference of carbon steel having non, 316 has molybdenum for more corrosion resistance
@@jordandavid1671 if your project is not under a lot of tension or needs corrosion resistance, it should be fine, the weld metal from 316 is 85,000 tensile strength, the carbon steel is probably only 58, 000 tensile strength ....a 2 lb spool of .035 309 is probably 30 to 35 bucks
I had an issue where the slag wouldnt come off, i had to really beat on the slag for it to come off. And after i do get the slag off, It would also leave a thin layer of slag. May i know what causes such?
your rod may have picked up moisture from improper storage ......check the manufacturers recommendation on temperature to store, it may be similar to a low hydrogen rod...[250-300 f]
Suggestion... If you can see that your rod will be too short to finish the weld, stop about 6" short. That'll give you room to work with your next rod. Your finished product will look better. So what if you waste a bit of the first rod. Save it for the next time you need a shorter rod.
Thanks for the video. I have been using dissimilar metals or maintenance rods for a while. I am not a great welder but had to learn by necessity. These rods I found on ebay and were brand new and high dollar . When I researched them you are not supposed to remove the slag until it cools and I believe you actually see it lift and hear it make a noise. If you remove right away supposed to make for a weaker weld. I can get the brand name or type but it's probably just a 309. I gave a few to my neighbor who is a better welder and he never in new about them and was really pleased in how they worked. Could you do a video using 309 on cast iron repair or cast to steel ? People don't believe it's possible with these rods.
Need nickle rod for cast. Sure you can lay a bead on it with 309, the same as you can with any other rod. But that doesn’t mean it’s going to be a proper repair. And your friend is definitely not a seasoned welder if he’s never heard of a common rod like 309. But you are correct about letting the slag cool and keep the oxygen in the air away from the weld until it has time to cook a bit. Same concept as holding your gif torch on the weld with post flow when you terminate a weld.
Great job. Serious question about stick welding. I have stick welder with Tig lift setting. Other day i accidentally stick welded with machine on Tig lift setting. I did notice way different sound and smoother arc,not as violent as when using arc setting. Will this hurt my machine,any pros or cons to doing stick welding while using Tig lift setting.
@@paulsableski1168 lack of consistent penetration and the bead keeps building up. I'm moving side to side trying to stay out of the center. The rest requires 1/8 and I'm kinda blind on what heat to run. Haven't really used this rod so it's all Chinese to me
@@ttsupra87 are you referring to 7018 rod? 1/8 7018 needs about 115 to 120, depending how good you are.....it can be more or less depending on machine too....zip across the middle to keep it form building up, and pause on the sides for maybe 1.5 seconds or so, you might hear a slight change in sound also, when that happens , move to other side, moving quick in middle.....you will get the hang of it.....and ignore the flux rolling down that is red and looks like metal......the more you weld, the better you get, and always get stable and comfortable, I like to use clamps, blocks of wood, whatever to get me and my skinny weak arms some support.....it never hurts...especially while learning,,,,,,use both hands too in the beginning, as you get better, you can learn to weld with one hand on stinger and one for support.....hope this helps, another old geezer welder
@@ttsupra87 ok, lets go back to the start, what type weld? groove or fillet,? what position [1,2,3,or 4], opps, I see you are welding in position 3 [vertical] what thickness material what rod? 309- [15, 16, or 17] these all add up to different answers.....
Hi, I just graduated from the trade school I went to about 2 months ago and I started working at a place that uses 309l-16 rods, we aren't allowed to weave I believe it's because we do work for the navy. But anyway I can only use about half the rod before it overheats. And this happens for everyone here and i feel like their has to be a way to use the full rod Instead of stopping in the middle of my plate. I'm doing 2g plate with 1/8 rods, on dcep with 115 Amps. I've tried welding lower Amps but it still tends to overheat. Any advice?
you got that right, I had some one bet me I could not weld stainless stick bare butt nekked...well, being the moron I was, I took the bet.....afterwards, I looked like a leopard with a bad suntan......tooks weeks to heal up.....but I won the bet.....a 6 pack of Schlitz......
Stainless steel welding rods (307, 308, 309, etc.) emit hexavalent chromium fumes. This is VERY bad stuff. It is recommended to wear a P100 respirator when welding with these materials. I really wish you'd cover some of the really big safety issues in your videos. The blanket safety disclaimer at the beginning of the video doesn't really cut it for a channel that is here to teach.
The worst stainless I’ve ever welded was last fall doing burner cracks in a boiler. That shit was an absolute pain in the ass to weld cause of how fatigued the metal was.
looking at the Certiflat table catalogue, it says the table they have is only $588 ......where do you figure $25,000 in fixturing, I don't think those mig pliers and wire Bruch cost that much. to make up the difference, ...dude, get real.......and those tables are not very "PRECISION' as you claim
corner joint? where did you get that term......maybe you mean T Joint with a fillet weld....one is 2F position, and the other is 1F position....and what the devil does it matter anyway.....THE TWO BEHAVE DIFFERENTLY.....these guys making videos don't need you pointing out something that is not true.....get the facts straight MAM.....just the facts
Come on, honestly you can't do messy starts and pretend that's normal, his way of doing its a hacks way, if you can't give the audience what they used to get then step down and let someone more qualified do the videos any of the original guys never had this problem, if they started there own channel you'd loose all subscribers, the only people happy about your videos are people that have no idea and are trying to teach themselves, anything Paul has to say can nearly be learnt out of the first year tradeschool books
Dude, sounds like you need to start your own channel, or maybe get up with the old guys from the old show.....that guy Paul has almost 40 years of running stainless, iconel ,hastaloy, carbon......power plants, ships, pulp mills....you name it.......post a link to some of your great knowledge and work......go somewhere else with your negative waves man......as a viewer reading comments to pick up more info, I find you are very rude......
@@atomichydrogenweld2823 I don't want to be negative I just don't want people to think you can be a hack and that's good enough, if Paul has all that experience why can't he weld straight or uniform? He's proved in numerous videos he can't weld alloy or stainless so why do you think he could do anything above that? Im not against Paul, im against people not doing it properly, im pressuming you personally know him to stand up for him like he's doing an acceptable job, he's not, sorry but it's not good enough, unfortunately Paul can't even give us a video that's equivalent to the 2-3 year old content from the guys in the past, ive been offered to work at tradeschool as a teacher, not big noteing myself but I enjoy working hence why I don't do youtube, the only welders Paul's helping are diy garden shed welders and people how won't ever make it in the trade. Last thing I want is to give someone a bad name but he's embarrassing himself im just pointing it out from being sick of people thinking that it's okay to do a crappy job
@@nathanjumperskeane3851 after reading your response to atomic welding guys comment.....maybe you should get in touch with Paul and volunteer to teach him how to weld. I heard they are always looking for new presenters that can really showcase different processes.....hopefully he will read your comment and maybe reach out to you. If you have a computer, they might be able to do a remote video with you ....something to think about.....Bob Brown
Really nice work! I am only a hobby weldor but I learned learned many lessons from this video, thank you!
I'm glad to hear that this video helped you learn many lessons, Weld.com has many videos with all the processes you can learn from, Thanks for watching!
See you on the Next class. Blessings from Honduras
Perfect timing, I just got my 3F ER309L weld signed off at school today.
The objective was for a 1/4" lap joint and it took me about 4 hours and 8 attempts.
I got a real nice looking bead on my 1F practice run but once I switched to vertical up the rod stared fighting me at every turn.
Outstanding, keep up the great work....
Congrats on getting your weld signed off!! Keep practicing, I'm sure you will get the hang of that vertical soon, Thanks for watching!
Good stuff man. I had to do 1/4 cs to 1/4 ss 3G with Cs backing strap with 309 wire. Very tough to not have under cut or to much roll. Really have to push fast
Do you have to pay for your test material at your school?
One 14g 30"x30" plate is $87. I'm out. Can't afford this.
@@dolphincliffs8864 my school provides all practice and test material, but I don't know if all schools are like that.
Great video on 309, my second favorite electrodes, behind hard to find 7028’s! I had to watch this again as I haven’t welded carbon to stainless in about 5 years. I have a backyard project coming up with stainless and I needed a “refresher course on 309-16 vs 309-17. Thanks for the video!
Er309 also is good for when you’re dealing with unknown flavors of stainless, e.g. cookware. Never run it stick, but have done a little bit of it in Tig.
we used to just keep 309 in the machine shop I worked for as an all purpose rod as we did repairs and never rally knew what material we were welding, it worked great for carbon to carbon, we never had any weld breakage over a 20 year period...if we knew the steel, as in new fabrication, we would use the correct carbon steel rod...like A36 steel
A lot of kitchen ware is 400 series magnetic stainless, it has no nickel...but is hardenable
309 rods are awesome flat horizontal and overhead. Vertical sucks ass
Thanks, always open to learning or refresh learning.
Central California Watching.
I'm glad you mentioned 15, 16, 17. I've been trying to get 308, 309 to lay down like 6010 but never could, lol. Gotta sub since you taught me.
This video came out one day late lol just passed my 2g stainless SMAW cert test yesterday 👍👍
@Paul Sableski thanks! Out of all the certs I have this was probably the most difficult and it’s only a 1/2” plate
Would like to see a video on using 312 rod, especially compared to 309.
I can put that on the request board, what are you welding with the 312 rod?
@@paulsableski1168 its a maintenance rod, so everything. Last one i did was galved mild steel to 316.
Nice video. I use 308 for stainless to stainless welds. Runs about like this 309. Thanks!
this was some useful information, thanks for making this video.....
Thank You Paulie!!
Stainless has the only spring loaded slag!
Rule number one is mouth closed
Rule number two is hand in front to deflect while taking slag off with the hammer
Rule number three is brace yourself next for your first vertical full stainless weld and watch all that metal dribble down
Lol, your are correct emmanuel germain, Thanks for your feedback!
“Spring loaded slag. “. I laughed my ass off and spit my coffee down my shirt with that one! 😂😂😂
I love the look of the 309 straight from peeling that easy slag off.
I like how the 55% vs 99% Nickel Rod video came up at end to play next......
Do an episode on 309 and 308 fluxcore. Birightshiel II by esab is my personal favorite.
I've never ran 309 in a stick, but have burnt quite a bit of ER309L with TIG. I recently had some difficulty with both 309 & 312, in joining 17-4 SS to high carbon steel (rotary hammer bits). I'm not sure why both 309 & 312 cracked/busted/failed.....but multiple pass ER70-S2 has been holding up great.
I'd love to hear any thoughts on what the issue is, because I have always heard & thought this was a primary purpose of 309-
Thanks!
hey Robert, did you preheat the high carbon steel? when you make multiple passes you actually temper the weld and make it more ductile. That is good.....Try a preheat of 300 to 450 f.... with Interpass in the same area, there is some data out there on the net... slowly cool......get some Bentonite....very cheap.....it is oil dry or kitty liter and cover part to slowly cool, no need to make a fancy oven or use weld blanket ....let all the commenters know how it works, maybe buy some er80s-2 or even er90s-2......I know, 309 has a tensile strength of 85,000 psi, 312 is 120,000 psi....there is a Harris product, Super Missle Weld that is pretty much the same was 312, but more expensive, you might try getting a pound of that....
@@atomichydrogenweld2823 In both cases, it was roughly a 1" shaft; so I didn't even consider that a preheat/slow cool down would be necessary. One tool is a rebar driver, and the other lengthened a clay spade to about 3FT (I'm a Land Surveyor in real life). In fairness, the weld joint probably wasn't beveled enough initially....but I did a super-bevel after the failure and when I used the 70-S2 (which has thus far worked).
The tensile strength differences of the different welds is obvious, when attempting to machine the failed weld off the joints- 70-S2 is easy....309 is tougher, but doable....312 is a PITA
I'm a Harris fan, and have heard of the "Super Missle Rod" although I haven't tried it yet.
309 & especially 312 look nicer. I'll pay more attention to pre/post heat the next time I give it a go. These tools really take a pounding in the rocks, from the rotary hammer.
Love the welding tips but you might want to check in to Stainless Steel Welding Rods giving off Hexavalent Chromium (Chromium 6/Cr VI)? Just to be on the safe side.
Sorry you didn't like me telling you the Truth. I would be careful about not informing people watching your video of the Dangerous condition caused by the welding process. I was a Quality Assurance Manager & Safety Manager for many years. So I gather you don't like me telling the truth so I will be leaving this post, and hope you don't get Sued too badly.
Good point. They stopped us from stick welding with stainless altogether unless using some serious ventilation
Great video quality, and thanks for the video! Yes, wait to chip the slag ‘till it cools off. I burned my lip real bad one time.My girlfriend thought I was messing around on her😂
Girlfrineds are like that.....you had we we call a real hot date on the side
What do you think about using 316L for welding 304 or 304 to carbon steel. Lincolns data sheet seems to suggest 316L can weld most of the 300 stainless. I was curious if it was okay to weld carbon to stainless with it. Basically I have a bunch of 316 wire. Thanks.
if you have the wire already, which is more expensive than 308 and your specifications do not say what to use, you would be ok to use 316, but you need to follow the WPS if working under a code. 309 has more chrome and nickel than 316 to make up for the difference of carbon steel having non, 316 has molybdenum for more corrosion resistance
@@ypaulbrown thanks for the info. If I have to buy wire I'll get 309. I just wanted to know if the welds would be sound enough for a hobby project.
@@jordandavid1671 if your project is not under a lot of tension or needs corrosion resistance, it should be fine, the weld metal from 316 is 85,000 tensile strength, the carbon steel is probably only 58, 000 tensile strength ....a 2 lb spool of .035 309 is probably 30 to 35 bucks
Finally 😊 great video on stainless
Great video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge
Greatly appreciate the support, Thanks for watching!
I had an issue where the slag wouldnt come off, i had to really beat on the slag for it to come off.
And after i do get the slag off, It would also leave a thin layer of slag.
May i know what causes such?
Bump that heat up a little and maybe slow down.
Wait for it to cool. That's what worked for me anyway.
your rod may have picked up moisture from improper storage ......check the manufacturers recommendation on temperature to store, it may be similar to a low hydrogen rod...[250-300 f]
I like this video very good job 👏 and very interesting rod
Suggestion... If you can see that your rod will be too short to finish the weld, stop about 6" short. That'll give you room to work with your next rod. Your finished product will look better. So what if you waste a bit of the first rod. Save it for the next time you need a shorter rod.
Thanks for the video. I have been using dissimilar metals or maintenance rods for a while. I am not a great welder but had to learn by necessity. These rods I found on ebay and were brand new and high dollar . When I researched them you are not supposed to remove the slag until it cools and I believe you actually see it lift and hear it make a noise. If you remove right away supposed to make for a weaker weld. I can get the brand name or type but it's probably just a 309. I gave a few to my neighbor who is a better welder and he never in new about them and was really pleased in how they worked. Could you do a video using 309 on cast iron repair or cast to steel ? People don't believe it's possible with these rods.
Need nickle rod for cast.
Sure you can lay a bead on it with 309, the same as you can with any other rod. But that doesn’t mean it’s going to be a proper repair.
And your friend is definitely not a seasoned welder if he’s never heard of a common rod like 309.
But you are correct about letting the slag cool and keep the oxygen in the air away from the weld until it has time to cook a bit. Same concept as holding your gif torch on the weld with post flow when you terminate a weld.
When joining thicker pieces, should we bevel it to give more opening and space for filler to bite into?
Great job. Serious question about stick welding. I have stick welder with Tig lift setting. Other day i accidentally stick welded with machine on Tig lift setting. I did notice way different sound and smoother arc,not as violent as when using arc setting. Will this hurt my machine,any pros or cons to doing stick welding while using Tig lift setting.
No it would not harm the machine. They both work on constant current.
I would like to see a break plate test in vertical. I'm practicing for that test and having a little trouble
What are you having trouble with?
@@paulsableski1168 lack of consistent penetration and the bead keeps building up. I'm moving side to side trying to stay out of the center. The rest requires 1/8 and I'm kinda blind on what heat to run. Haven't really used this rod so it's all Chinese to me
@@ttsupra87 are you referring to 7018 rod? 1/8 7018 needs about 115 to 120, depending how good you are.....it can be more or less depending on machine too....zip across the middle to keep it form building up, and pause on the sides for maybe 1.5 seconds or so, you might hear a slight change in sound also, when that happens , move to other side, moving quick in middle.....you will get the hang of it.....and ignore the flux rolling down that is red and looks like metal......the more you weld, the better you get, and always get stable and comfortable, I like to use clamps, blocks of wood, whatever to get me and my skinny weak arms some support.....it never hurts...especially while learning,,,,,,use both hands too in the beginning, as you get better, you can learn to weld with one hand on stinger and one for support.....hope this helps, another old geezer welder
@@atomichydrogenweld2823 this test is 309l 1/8 smaw 12" break plate.
@@ttsupra87 ok, lets go back to the start,
what type weld? groove or fillet,?
what position [1,2,3,or 4], opps, I see you are welding in position 3 [vertical]
what thickness material
what rod? 309- [15, 16, or 17]
these all add up to different answers.....
Caught some 7018 slag on my lower eyelid with PPE on. Hurt for a few days. Dang ole needle gun!
Bump up few amps on those welds and a little more of an angle, tighter arc should help to get a better bead and diminish in those bbs splatter
Good Job keep it up
Good job 😍
Thanks for watching!
Good welding with electrod 309 melting also Good
Can we get a vertical and overhead but joint or lap joint video?
We have some full demos over in the Weld App
I would like to try using 309 listening to phantom 309 by Red Sovine
what a great song.....howa bout a cut of Joe......
@@ypaulbrown Dude, it's a Cup of Joe......
someone should do a video on TIGing cast iron.
Heat, speed ???
Hi, I just graduated from the trade school I went to about 2 months ago and I started working at a place that uses 309l-16 rods, we aren't allowed to weave I believe it's because we do work for the navy. But anyway I can only use about half the rod before it overheats. And this happens for everyone here and i feel like their has to be a way to use the full rod Instead of stopping in the middle of my plate. I'm doing 2g plate with 1/8 rods, on dcep with 115 Amps. I've tried welding lower Amps but it still tends to overheat. Any advice?
It's also a single bevel groove.
Stainless does that
What's the difference between 308 and 309? Never heard of 309?
309 you can weld stainless to carbon. 308 is strictly just stainless to stainless
309 has more chrome and nickel with higher ferrite content.....the extra chrome and nickel helps make up for the fact that carbon steel has none.
how about a cut and etch ?
Thank you!
Cool guy!
Hello！We are the manufacturer of laser welding/cutting/cleaning/marking machine, did you need these kinds of equipments in production ?
getting burned with the slag not fun especially S/S tends to ping everywhere.
you got that right, I had some one bet me I could not weld stainless stick bare butt nekked...well, being the moron I was, I took the bet.....afterwards, I looked like a leopard with a bad suntan......tooks weeks to heal up.....but I won the bet.....a 6 pack of Schlitz......
Top
Guess I should have watched before I commented sorry.
I have made the same mistake......opps......open mouth, insert foot.....good thing I have small feet.....
Stainless steel welding rods (307, 308, 309, etc.) emit hexavalent chromium fumes. This is VERY bad stuff. It is recommended to wear a P100 respirator when welding with these materials. I really wish you'd cover some of the really big safety issues in your videos. The blanket safety disclaimer at the beginning of the video doesn't really cut it for a channel that is here to teach.
The worst stainless I’ve ever welded was last fall doing burner cracks in a boiler. That shit was an absolute pain in the ass to weld cause of how fatigued the metal was.
I have done the same kind of work, that metal has been heated and fatigued for months on end!! It's not fun to weld! Thanks for your feedback!
@@paulsableski1168 like welding a rusted fender from the snow belt.....so much fun.....
What different properties does the fatigued metal have?
👍
Has $25k in fixturing
Welds practice plate to the precision table top
hey Josh, the super troll.......go watch some Wolfpack Videos.....
looking at the Certiflat table catalogue, it says the table they have is only $588 ......where do you figure $25,000 in fixturing, I don't think those mig pliers and wire Bruch cost that much. to make up the difference, ...dude, get real.......and those tables are not very "PRECISION' as you claim
Well the 2 welds are exactly the same as you are welding a corner joint on both.
corner joint? where did you get that term......maybe you mean T Joint with a fillet weld....one is 2F position, and the other is 1F position....and what the devil does it matter anyway.....THE TWO BEHAVE DIFFERENTLY.....these guys making videos don't need you pointing out something that is not true.....get the facts straight MAM.....just the facts
Come on, honestly you can't do messy starts and pretend that's normal, his way of doing its a hacks way, if you can't give the audience what they used to get then step down and let someone more qualified do the videos any of the original guys never had this problem, if they started there own channel you'd loose all subscribers, the only people happy about your videos are people that have no idea and are trying to teach themselves, anything Paul has to say can nearly be learnt out of the first year tradeschool books
Dude, sounds like you need to start your own channel, or maybe get up with the old guys from the old show.....that guy Paul has almost 40 years of running stainless, iconel ,hastaloy, carbon......power plants, ships, pulp mills....you name it.......post a link to some of your great knowledge and work......go somewhere else with your negative waves man......as a viewer reading comments to pick up more info, I find you are very rude......
@@atomichydrogenweld2823 I don't want to be negative I just don't want people to think you can be a hack and that's good enough, if Paul has all that experience why can't he weld straight or uniform? He's proved in numerous videos he can't weld alloy or stainless so why do you think he could do anything above that? Im not against Paul, im against people not doing it properly, im pressuming you personally know him to stand up for him like he's doing an acceptable job, he's not, sorry but it's not good enough, unfortunately Paul can't even give us a video that's equivalent to the 2-3 year old content from the guys in the past, ive been offered to work at tradeschool as a teacher, not big noteing myself but I enjoy working hence why I don't do youtube, the only welders Paul's helping are diy garden shed welders and people how won't ever make it in the trade. Last thing I want is to give someone a bad name but he's embarrassing himself im just pointing it out from being sick of people thinking that it's okay to do a crappy job
@@nathanjumperskeane3851 after reading your response to atomic welding guys comment.....maybe you should get in touch with Paul and volunteer to teach him how to weld. I heard they are always looking for new presenters that can really showcase different processes.....hopefully he will read your comment and maybe reach out to you. If you have a computer, they might be able to do a remote video with you ....something to think about.....Bob Brown